Hike East is your free guide to all the best that Turkey has to offer. Trek along some of the most spectacular long-distance trails on earth, check out ancient ruins and magnificent geological formations, or explore huge and endlessly fascinating İstanbul. It’s all right here, including countless discounts and special opportunities just for readers of Hike East!
Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi Atıf Yılmaz Caddesi (Ağa Cami Sokağı) No:17 Kat:3 Beyoğlu - ISTANBUL
www.ritimbar.com
o o k -- D ok L o L D rr ii n k - E n j o y Co me nk Erasmus & Hostels Enjoy Meeting Point Fish Bazaar St. Beyoğlu-İSTANBUL
Contents Turkey Map 10 Things Not To Miss İstanbul Beyoğlu Sultanahmet Kadıköy Islands Around İstanbul Ankara Çanakkale Assos Bozcaada Ayvalık Cunda İzmir Bergama Foça Ephesus Şirince Kuşadası Gökova/Akyaka
7 9 12 13 24 28 30 32 36 38 41 43 45 47 48 51 54 57 60 63 64
Bodrum Pamukkale Datça Dalyan Köyceğiz Lycian Way
66 72 74 76 79 80 82 85 87 91 95 96 102 104 112 114 120 122 124 130 134
Fethiye Ölüdeniz Kayaköy Kabak Patara Kaş Demre Olympos Antalya Cappadocia / Göreme Nemrut Mardin Van Black Sea Turkish-English Dictionary
How to Use This Guidebook Camping
Accommodation Ancient city
Shopping
Bar
Breakfast
Wine house
Dinner
Credit cards accepted
Places a bit more expensive
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Activities
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İnternet Wi-Fi
Hike East is a free guidebook bringing tons of great information about traveling in Turkey right to your fingertips- including discounts on all kinds of services throughout the country, from hostel stays to drinks to extreme sports experiences. We provide an easy-to-understand, useful and up-to-date guidebook to make your travels in Turkey as memorable and affordable as possible, and best of all, all this info is completely on the house! You can pick up a print version from any of the awesome hostels, restaurants, and companies featured in Hike East. ...did we mention it’s free? Find us online at www.hikeast.com or on all your favorite social networking sites. Facebook: www.facebook.com/hikeast Tumblr: www.hikeast.tumblr.com/ Twitter: www.twitter.com/hikeast Promotions offered through Hike East are only valid when you show up with the guidebook in hand. To receive the discounts, make a direct booking, not through third-party providers.
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Responsible Travel We hope that your travels in Turkey will be eye-opening and full of fantastic discoveries along the way. Turkey is a major destination for travelers across the world, though, and the impact of tourism on the environment has the potential to cause significant damage. Please be responsible as you explore this beautiful country! * * * * * * *
Read about the culture and customs of Turkey; always abide by the local laws and etiquette! Patronize local small businesses as much as possible Get to know the friendly and welcoming Turkish people wherever you go Do your best to learn some Turkish Always be respectful. Wear appropriate clothing and ask before taking pictures Don’t litter! Abide by posted signs
Trekking Tips Turkey has some of the world’s most amazing hiking trails, and we know you can’t wait to get your boots on and get going. To make your experience the best it can be and minimize your environmental impact, make sure to... * * * * * * * * *
Trek in groups whenever possible Follow maps and signs- don’t take shortcuts! Prepare appropriately. Bring enough supplies and plan ahead Ask local guides for tips and information Check into the current condition of the trails before leaving Carry out all your trash with you Leave the wildlife alone Never light fires Only camp where it’s permitted!
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Transportation in Turkey By air: Turkey is a big country, and flying is definitely the fastest way to get from place to place, and can be quite cheap if you book in advance. Flights between major cities depart frequently. The national carrier is Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) and there are a number of budget providers such as Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com/en/) or Sunexpress (www.sunexpress.com). By bus: Long-distance buses are a common way to get around. Travel times are often daunting, but the fares are cheap and the coaches are comfortable. Many of the longhaul journeys are overnight. Check out carriers such as Varan (www.varan.com) and Pamukkale (www.pamukkale.com.tr). Note that it can be difficult to book ahead; however, it’s nearly always possible to buy a same-day ticket. Reputable companies include Ulusoy (www.ulusoy.com.tr), Nilüfer (www.nilufer.com.tr), and Metro (www.metroturizm.com.tr). By rail: Trains service fewer destinations than buses in Turkey and take longer to arrive, but tend to be cheaper. TCDD is the government operator- their website can be found at www.tcdd.gov.tr. By boat: You can reach many places along the Mediterranean coast and the Sea of Marmara by ferry; additionally, many lines run to Italy and Greece, as well as the Ukraine (across the Black Sea). You can check the schedules online at www.ido.com.tr. By car: Make sure you know how to drive a stick shift if you’re planning on renting a car in Turkey. Note that fuel is expensive and there are often tolls along major roads. You drive on the right side. Transport in cities: Buses, dolmuşes (shared taxis), private taxis, subways, and trams are all common in Turkish cities; ask the locals for tips. Additionally, ferries are a common way of crossing between Asian and European İstanbul.
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Useful Websites www.tourismturkey.org
The Ministry of Tourism’s official site
www.turkishdailynews.com
English-language news about Turkey
www.mymerhaba.com
An expat website about everything Turkey
www.seat61.com/Turkey.htm
A great resource for train travel in Turkey
www.garaj.org
Find out about Turkish music and shows
www.bugday.org/portal/index.php
Info about ecology and sustainability in Turkey
www.denizde.com
All you need to know about sailing and water activities here
www.thegate.com
The website of one of Turkey’s leading English magazines www.turkishclass.com Learn some Turkish!
Emergency Phone Numbers 110 Fire 155 Police 112 Ambulance 156 Jandarma (local constables)
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DISTANTE CHART
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For the full schedule and line-up, visit us at www.hikeast.com/music
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Don’t Miss These Ten Things! 1.
Exploring the awesome and often-overlooked Basilica Cistern
2.
Crossing between Europe and Asia on a ferry in İstanbul
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Losing yourself in the winding alleys of the Grand Bazaar
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Going out for drinks and dancing near İstiklal Street in Beyoğlu
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Eating a kebab, a Turkish favorite
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Taking in the spectacular ruins at Ephesus
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Soaking in the natural hot springs at Pamukkale
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Wandering through the incredible ghost town of Kayaköy
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Hiking the Lycian Way
10. Getting an eyeful of the amazing fairy chimneys in Cappadocia
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Erasmus Student Network (ESN) is one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe, founded in 1989 for supporting and developing student exchange. ESN is a non-profit organisation and officially supported by European Commission. We are around 12.000 members from 393 universities in 36 countries and offering services to 150.000 students. In Turkey, ESN is present at 30 universities, which are connected to ESN TURKEY. www.esnturkey.org Istanbul:
Bahçeşehir University Bilgi University Boğaziçi University Istanbul University Galatasaray University Işık University ITU Kadir Has University Koç University Kültür University Marmara University Sabancı University Yeditepe University
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esnbahcesehir@esnturkey.org esnbilgi@esnturkey.org esnbogazici@esnturkey.org esnexistanbul@esnturkey.org esngalatasaray@esnturkey.org esnisik@esnturkey.org esnitu@esnturkey.org esnkadirhas@esnturkey.org esnkoc@esnturkey.org esnkultur@esnturkey.org esnmarmara@esnturkey.org esnsabanci@esnturkey.org esnyeditepe@esnturkey.org
t ers
Ankara:
Ankara University Atılım University Bilkent University Hacettepe University METU
esnankarauni@esnturkey.org esnatilim@esnturkey.org esnbilkent@esnturkey.org esnhacettepe@esnturkey.org esnmetu@esnturkey.org
Afyon:
Afyon Kocatepe University
esnkocatepe@esnturkey.org
Antalya:
Akdeniz University
esnakdeniz@esnturkey.org
Aydın:
Adnan Menderes University
esnadu@esnturkey.org
Çanakkale:
Çanakkale 18 Mart University
esncanakkale@esnturkey.org
Edirne:
Trakya University
esntrakya@esnturkey.org
Elazığ:
Fırat University
esnfirat@esnturkey.org
Eskişehir:
Anadolu University
esnanadolu@esnturkey.org
Isparta:
Suleyman Demirel University
esnsdu@esnturkey.org
Izmir:
Ege University
esnege@esnturkey.org
Mersin:
Çağ University
esncag@esnturkey.org
Samsun:
Samsun Ondokuz Mart University
esnsamsun@esnturkey.org
Yalova:
Yalova University
esnyalova@esnturkey.org
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İSTANBUL İstanbul Turkey’s largest city and the only one on earth to have been the capital of two different empires (the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire), İstanbul straddles Europe and Asia. The ages have known İstanbul by many different names- some of the most familiar being Byzantium and Constantinople. Today, the city center is roughly divided into three parts by the Bosphorus Strait: the comparatively quieter Asian side is dominated by the district of Kadıköy, while the European side is home to historical Sultanahmet and, across a channel, the modern center of Beyoğlu. Nearly every visitor to Turkey will spend time in İstanbul at some point on their journey. You could easily wile away weeks or months exploring all the corners of this fascinating and lively city, but if you’re on a strict time budget, plan ahead and make sure you have time to fit in all the exploring you want to do. Full of history and blended European-Asian-Middle Eastern culture and history, you’re sure to find tons to do!
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Making up the northwestern sector of the city center, Beyoğlu is among İstanbul’s most modern districts; it started out as a Catholic neighborhood across from the Muslim areas of today’s Asian side, and has historically led the charge of Westernization in the city. There’s plenty to see and do in Beyoğlu, both in terms of sightseeing and just soaking in all the culture and tradition İstanbul has to offer.
with all kinds of folks, Turks and travelers, at almost any hour of the day. If any single spot can be called the heart of İstanbul, it’s Taksim Square. Full of restaurants and upscale hotels, the square is also a major transportation hub- you can catch a dolmuş or bus to anywhere in the city from here. Take a look at the Republic Monument which was erected in 1928. Also make sure to head to Taksim Square if you happen to be in İstanbul during a holiday or festival- chances are, that’s where the action is! At the other end of İstiklal you’ll find Tünel Square, home to the second-oldest subway line in the world, second only to the London Underground. It’s also one of the shortest at just over 550 meters; take it from the Karaköy ferry dock up the hill to the end of the pedestrian walkway.
The famous İstiklal Street in central Beyoğlu proceeds from Taksim Square at one end to Tünel Square at the other, with the tiny Galatasaray Square constituting the midpoint. İstiklal is roughly two kilometers long and is first and foremost a pedestrian street; certain types of service vehicles, such as police cars and garbage trucks (as well as the old-fashioned red tram which runs from end to end), can be seen, but nearly all the traffic along its length is on foot. İstiklal is known for fantastic shopping, awesome nightlife, and maybe above all, unbeatable people-watching. It’s packed to the brim
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While in Beyoğlu, take an afternoon stroll through the relatively unknown neighborhood of Cihangir. Considered to be modern İstanbul’s most bohemian area, Cihangir (down the hill from Taksim Square, toward the waterfront) is a maze of small streets and cluttered little shops selling everything from retro clothing to dusty antiques. Cihangir is heaven on earth for bargain hunters and those in search of more alternative and unusual wares than İstiklal has to offer. You can spend your time here getting lost in the winding alleys, sitting at a cafe beside the Bosphorus, or sorting through piles of second-hand clothes on the lookout for deals. By Tünel Square at the other end of İstiklal, see Galata Tower, built in 1348 by the Genoese. Climb to the top of the tower for a spectacular view of the Bosphorus; this is one of the most impressive panoramas you’ll find anywhere in İstanbul.
Getting to Beyoğlu If you’re arriving at the airport, the most straightforward (although not the cheapest) way to get to Beyoğlu is on one of the frequent HAVAŞ shuttles. Getting to Taksim Square with HAVAŞ will set you back 14 TL from Sabiha Gökçen Airport on the Asian side, or 10 TL from Atatürk International. Alternately, you can get a bus to Taksim from just about anywhere. The 61B line runs from Beyazıt (near Sultanahmet), the 110 from Kadıköy, and the 96T from Atatürk Airport. The fare will normally be 1.50 TL. Dolmuşes are even more frequent, and depart from just about everywhere in İstanbul to Taksim. If you’re coming from Kadıköy, the fastest way to reach the Galata area is by ferry (1.75 TL); head to the docks and simply look for a boat with the sign “Karaköy.” Heading south to Taksim from Ayazağa or Levent, the subway is your best bet.
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Chillout Cengo Hostel With five hostels in İstanbul, Chillout is among the city’s most popular and wellknown options for budget travelers. Chillout Cengo is centrally located, just minutes away from busy İstiklal Street and a short walk from Taksim Square- if it’s partying you’re after, you’ve come to the right place. Friday and Saturday nights here are loud and spirited affairs where you’ll have no trouble making friends to hit the bars with. All of the best Beyoğlu bars (and by extension, a solid number of the very best nightlife options in all of vast İstanbul) are just beyond your front door. Don’t stress out about cutting your night out short, either, because reception is 24 hours a day and there’s a no-lockout policy. Check in as a Guest, Stay as a Friend
Hüseyinaga Mah. Atıf Yılmaz Cad. Halas Sk. No. 3, Galata +90 212 251 31 48 chilloutcengohostel@yahoo.com www.chillouthc.com
Chillout Cengo employs some of the friendliest staff members around. They’re all knowledgeable about the city and can help you with just about anything- insider tips for the best places to go on a rowdy Friday night, the best routes to Sultanahmet for some sightseeing, or restaurant recommendations that won’t break the bank. You’ll also get a free map of İstanbul to help you explore the city on your own. Don’t forget ISCOU to grab one, because this city is huge!
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There are 70 beds, so chances are that even if you show up without a reservation at 3 am, they’ll have a place for you to sleep. Choose from a private room (ensuite or with a shared bathroom) or a 6, 8, 10, or 12-bed dorm. You can get free tea all day, and there’s a guest kitchen if you want to prepare your own meals. Otherwise, head to the Chillout cafe next door. The staff at Chillout Cengo pride themselves on keeping the hostel clean- no worries about nightmare bathrooms here. And of course, you’ll be supplied with fresh sheets, so there’s no need to lug around a sleeping bag.
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Chillout Classic is, as the name suggests, the original İstanbul Chillout hostel. It’s the pioneer of relaxation and fun in İstanbul, located in party central just off İstiklal, yet it’s also perfect for... well, just “chilling out” with your fellow travelers or having a chat with the staff, who are full of all kinds of esoteric knowledge about the city and can ISCOU get you from point A to point B with a minimum of hassle.
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İstiklal Cad. Balyoz Sk. No. 3A Taksim +90 212 249 47 84 chillouthc@yahoo.de www.chilloutistanbul.com
for a bit of privacy- all decorated in bright colors. Chillout Classic has seen countless scores of backpackers come and go, each with a unique story about their time on the road- take a look around you and you’ll feel the atmosphere humming with adventures, so come add your own to the mix!
Arch-Ist Hostel Location, location, location: Arch-Ist Hostel is not only less than five minutes from historic Taksim Square and sleepless İstiklal Street, it’s also perfectly situated for a walk through quirky Cihangir. Set up in a restored 100-year old building, Arch-Ist is surprisingly modernfeeling: classy and a little bit artsy.
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30 beds are available (two private rooms and five dorms). Each room comes standard with air conditioning and heating
Sıraselviler Cad. No. 40 Taksim +90 212 245 86 90 bookarchist@gmail.com www.archisthostel.com so you can adjust the temperature to your preferences; lockers are also available for your valuables. Many travelers report that they’d return here just for the beds, which are orthopedic and probably the most comfortable hostel mattresses in all of Turkey. The guest kitchen is also a highlight; it’s spacious and well-equipped with all the implements you need to try your hand at Turkish cooking. Pub crawls and tours to destinations outside İstanbul can be arranged- just ask the staff!
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Rapunzel Hostel Opened recently by three Turkish mates keen on making international friends by getting the world to come to their front door, Rapunzel is without a doubt one of Beyoğlu’s cheeriest and most welcoming hostels. The communal, DIY attitude espoused by the trio is evident in the 19th century building’s current incarnation, and you’ll find character ISCOU aplenty here.
Bereketzade Camii Sok. No. 3 Galata +90 212 292 50 34 info@rapunzelhostel.com www.rapunzelistanbul.com vanity mirrors all over the place. Travelers will recognize that little touches like these can really take the stress out of sharing your living space with other people! There’s also free tea and coffee, as well as hairdryers, AC, city maps... they’ve thought of everything. They’ll even exchange currency for you!
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Privates and dorms are available, and each comes with a number of cool things you’re probably not used to finding in hostels, like individual reading lights and
Check out the terrace with a great view of the Golden Horn and Galata Tower (a mere oneminute walk away).
68 Hostel Hacımimi Mah. Karabaş Deresi Sok. No: 31 / Beyoğlu +90 212 238 61 26 hamakturizm@gmail.com www.68hostels.com
the entrance. And even better, the location is fantastic, within easy walking distance from İstiklal Street and mere minutes from Sultanahmet by tram.
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68 Hostel is without a doubt one of the new gems on İstanbul’s hosteling scene. It’s run by two young Turkish friends who are universally praised by their guests for their laid-back attitude and cheery friendliness, not to mention their inside-and-out knowledge of the city they call home. Be warned, though, they won’t cut you any breaks if you decide to take them on in a game on the Playstation 3 found in the common room.
Choose from single rooms or dorms (4, 6, 8, or 10 beds). Coffee and tea are free all day.
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Beyoğlu Nightlife in Beyoğlu İstiklal and the adjoining streets are absolutely the places to go in İstanbul if you’re looking for a night out. Mix with locals and grab yourself an Efes at a chilled out bar, or head to a dance club if you want to get moving. A walk down the main street any time after dark will get you excited to start the party- you’ll see people from all walks of life dressed to the nines and ready for a night on the town. It’s amazing how İstiklal changes its colors come dusk, and what you thought was a street full of shops and restaurants suddenly becomes a line of bar after bar after bar... choose one and get drinking!
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You can also try Haymatlos (Rumeli Han No:49 C Blok) for more live music or Kooperatif (Mahyacı St. Rumeli Han C Blok No:88/12) for more arty stuff. Leyla Teras, (www. leylateras.hikeast.com ) located on Bekar Street, is a taste of the real İstanbul. With frequent performances by local bands like Luxus and Bomba Etkisi, as well as rakı nights on the regular, this is the place to be if you’re after a taste of authenticity and liberalism. Check out their Facebook page to see what’s going on!
One of the well known spots in Beyoğlu to party is Ritim Roof & Pub located near Nevizade ( famous bar street in Beyoğlu ) is a good choice to have a night out with World Music and laid back vibe are certain to have you coming back for more.
Closer to Galata, get your dance on at Babylon Performance Hall (www.babylon. com.tr). There’s always something happening here, from happy hour to live shows and theme nights!
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Nightlife in Beyoğlu Araf (which means Purgatory in Turkish) is always packed with expats and locals alike- and no wonder. There’s no entrance fee, ever, and the drinks are priced to sell- come here for a crazy night which will leave your wallet intact. The music, too, is a change of pace from what you’ll usually find in İstanbul nightclubs. There’s a heavy focus on world music, and they’re constantly hosting live acts with an alternative international bent. Two awesome DJs take over when the bands aren’t on. Divided roughly in three parts between the dance floor, the bar area, and an outdoor spot for smokers, Araf has something for everyone. Find it at Balo Sokak 32 or visit them online at “araf.com.tr.” If you’re on İstiklal Street and find yourself in search of a singular spot to drink a cold one, head straight for Boş Zamanlar Biranesi (Mis Sokak No. 6). The terrace will open soon; for now, find a spot to sit and people-watch while you indulge in some true Turkish drinking traditions- an Efes, maybe, or if you want to get even more localized, order a rakı and mezes (rakı is known the stir the appetite!). Both Turkish and foreign music are played at Boş Zamanlar, so settle in and prepare to be surprised. Jazz rock, world beats, uptempo local bands... whatever your tastes, you’ll find something to love. Asmaaltı Cafe and Bar is a friendly, chilled-out stop near the Flower Passage off İstiklal Street. The service is consistently excellent, so you won’t be distracted from your conversationsexcept maybe by the scores of artsy folk who frequent the bar, from students to journalists. It’s a favorite with locals, and has a seriously bohemian vibe, so bring your sketchbook. Make sure to try the tasty food from the cafe- you can get all kinds of savory Turkish dishes to accompany your beer.
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Shopping in İstanbul Even if you didn’t come to İstanbul with the intention of souvenir shopping, the ubiquitous bazaars and low prices will change your mind in a hurry. The alternative clothing shop Clandestino has four locations throughout the city (including in Kadıköy and Beyoğlu; take a look at their website at www.clandestino.com.tr for addresses and a look at some of their products). It takes its name from the song by Manu Chao, which may give you an idea of the type of things you can find herethey specialize in comfortable, bright, offbeat clothing perfect for strolling around the city or picking up on your way down to the chilled-out camps in southern Turkey. Another great choice for stylish and relaxed clothing is Tola Tola, located at Serdari Ekrem Caddesi No. 15/B in Beyoğlu. Both men and women can find great deal on ethnicallyinspired and artful clothes and all kinds of cool accessories here. The latter section makes for particularly good browsing- check out their handbags, hairbands, and gloves, among many others. You can find their site at www.tolatola.com.tr. If you want to dive into the heady experience of bazaar shopping, don’t miss Terkos Pasajı, famous for its dirt-cheap second-hand clothing. Find the passage on the right side of İstiklal Street as you walk toward Tünel from Taksim Square. You can spend a whole afternoon here and leave with armfuls of shirts and such for mere liras apiece. Semt pazarları (neighborhood markets) are another local favorite. Held on various days across the city, these temporary markets are great for buying fruits and vegetables, as well as a variety of other wares. One of the best is the Tuesday and Friday market in Kadıköy, close to Hasanpaşa; on the European side, have a wander through Nüzhetiye Street in Beşiktaş on a Saturday.
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İstanbulLive Performance Hall
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Atıf Yılmaz Caddesi No:17 Kat:3 Beyoğlu -ISTANBUL Tel: +90 541 889 10 90 www.istanbulliveperformance.com
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Eskici Pub First opened in Sıraselviler st. in 2001; moved to its new adress in famous İstiklal St. welcoming guests from all over the world with a wide variety of music. As obvious from the name (eskici=ragman) the main trend in this cozy bar is old 45 records , but also you can hear Anatolian pop/rock, Balkanic and Latin rhythms or join the dancing crowd with 80’s and 90’s hit songs. Not a huge dancing club , but a well located, nice and warm enviorenment where you can taste the İstanbul’s lively night life!
Fuat Uzkınay Sk. No:8/A Beyoğlu -İst. +90 212 252 10 68 eskicipub@hotmail.com www.eskicipub.com
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İstanbul Live is one of the biggest venue in Taksim, located one of the side streets from İstiklal ( the street between the shopping mall and old mosque ) still has some room for alternative/ethnic Turkish bands like Luxus, Marsis and also some famous rock bands like Duman. Many famous european bands visit İstanbul Live regularly; to see them it is a better idea to buy your ticket in advance through biletix.com . But if you have a Hike East book with you, just need to show it on the door. Not only the concerts, but also the events and parties like Erasmus or Couchsurfing meetings make this place OUNT CFree worth to check.
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Ritim Roof & Pub Grungy fun central for foreigners in town. Located in the heart of beyoğlu –fish bazaartwo sister bars Ritim Roof and Ritim Pub is impossible not to notice if you are walkiing through the street. Ritim BAR has 4 floors and a terrace, and each floor is decorated in diffrent style. You can organise parties at the terrace during summer time and enjoy with beautiful Istanbul view during all year. It is open everyday from 11 am till next 4 am and you can find different kind of music from all over the world. The agility of Salsa, Rumba, and Latin music, instrumental and joyful athmosphere of Gypsy and Balkan music, the exotic sound of Arabian and Indian
Fish Bazaar St. Beyoğlu-İstanbul +90 212 249 02 52 info@ritimbar.com www.ritimbar.com
music, and free rhythms of Hip hop, Punk and Reggae get you, and rhythm of the city slowly increase. Also worth to note that Ritim is one of the the hot spots as an Erasmus and backpackers meeting point.
Ritim Galata Galata Kulesi Sk. No:3/C Beyoğlu- İstanbul +90 212 292 49 26 muminten@hotmail.com www.ritimgalata.com
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Having the same owners with Ritim Roof & Pub, this one is a bit more chilled-out. Located just in front of the entrance of Galata Tower; becomes increasingly popular among students, tourists, artists... with its compact but affordable and interesting kitchen and originally renovated historical building. It is one of the best options in the city to have a nice breakfast in the morning or some conversations with friends accompained by your beer in late afternoon or even have a dinner and continue with your drinks till late night...
İSTANBUL
Sultanahmet
The oldest part of İstanbul, Sultanahmet is home to the majority of the city’s most well-known and impressive ancient sites. The district is located on a peninsula across a narrow body of water from Beyoğlu- you can cross on a footbridge- and is bounded by three bodies of water; from here, the panorama takes in the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn. Sultanahmet is serviced by a tram line which can take you all throughout the peninsula.
Arguably the most famous of İstanbul’s sights, the Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya in Turkish) is a magnificent sixth-century basilica built by the Roman emperor Justinian I and later converted to a mosque in the fifteenth century by the Ottoman conquerers. Only in the last century was it turned into a museum, its present incarnation. Spectacular enough from the outside, the inside of the building is not to be missed either. Check out the fantastic mosaics within.
Topkapı Palace was used as a royal residence by the Ottomans for two-thirds of their 624year reign. Today, it ranks up there as one of İstanbul’s most-visited tourist destinations, and houses such important Muslim relics as the Prophet Mohammed’s sword. There are four separate courtyards to visit, each with a different style and a wide variety of artifacts to view. Linger over the arms collection in the second courtyard or the extensive harem.
Built, like the Hagia Sophia, during the reign of Justinian I, the Basilica Cistern is a lesser-known but just as fascinating facet of Sultanahmet’s historical legacy. Originally constructed in order to ensure the city’s continued water supply in the event of a siege, it was also used as a filtration system for the palace. The slightly creepy atmosphere of the cistern will make you feel like you’ve stepped back to the sixth century; wend your way through the pillars and take a peek at the gigantic resident fish.
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Sultanahmet Archaeology enthusiasts will have the time of their life checking out the massive Museum of Archaeology located near Topkapı Palace. Divided into three parts- the Archaeology Museum proper, the Museum of Islamic Art, and the Museum of the Ancient Orient, everything you can imagine related to İstanbul’s dramatic history can be found here. The collection related to Alexander the Great is among the most striking- it includes an adorned sarcophagus which was once believed to belong to the conqueror himself. You’ll also find Sumerian tablets and a host of marble statues. Next to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, you’ll find the Hippodrome of Constantinople, so named, of course, because it was built during the Byzantine period. For centuries, the Hippodrome was used as a center of sporting events and social life; unfortunately, the structure did not make it to modern times unscathed, and today there are only obelisks and sculptures still standing. Nevertheless, it’s a must-see while you’re in Sultanahmet. Check out the German Fountain in the adjacent square.
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order to enter. The blue tiles inside lend the building its colloquial title; there are more than 20,000 handmade tiles decorating the interior. Called the world’s shopping oldest mall, the Grand Bazaar is more than worth a visit even if you don’t have anything to buy. You can find absolutely anything here, and spend an afternoon or ten wandering the narrow alleys. The bazaar is primarily known for its spices and Turkish carpets, but jewelry, clothing, and, well, pretty much everything else on earth can be had here too. Time to hone your bargaining skills! Don’t miss a hamam experience while you’re here- after a scrub and massage here, you’ll feel like you’re truly clean for the first time in your life. Çemberlitaş is one of the best and most famous in the area- give them a call at +90 212 522 79 74 to book your experience. If you’re hungry, go straight to the famous Sur Ocakbaşı at İtfaiye Caddesi No. 19, probably the best place in the whole city to get a kebab. Superbly fresh ingredients and a friendly atmosphere!
Another of the most famous landmarks in İstanbul, the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (usually known as the Blue Mosque) is centrally located on the peninsula. Unlike the Hagia Sophia, it’s still used as a working mosque, so you’ll have to cover up appropriately in
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Bahaus Hostel İstanbul The consistently award-winning Bahaus Hostel in Sultanahmet is just a short walk away from all the major attractions in the area- you can’t get more central than this! They’ve got everything you need for an exciting (and comfortable) stay- hairdryers and free Internet, a DVD collection and free use of the safe deposit boxes. You don’t need to worry about security while you’re here, because it’s a top priority for the staff to make sure that you and your belongings are safe and sound.
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Akbıyık Cad. Bayram Fırın Sk. No. 11 +90 212 638 65 34 bahausguesthouse@yahoo.com www.bahaushostelistanbul.com
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Which is convenient, because you’ll be too busy partying to have time to worry about whether your valuables are safe or not. Winter-time activities such as free movie nights, karaoke nights, and belly dancing nights give way in the summer to good old fashioned drinking and dancing. There’s no lockout, so stumble home anytime you feel like it! Or if you’d rather stay in to drink, never fear- there’s a bar in the hostel.
panorama of Asian İstanbul. Of course, they’re always ready for a party at Bahaus, so if you want to grab a drink in the moonlight before hitting the town, you certainly won’t be alone!
The dorms are all scrupulously cleaned and extremely comfortable- they’ve even thought of some cool innovations of their own which you’ll wish every hostel included, like privacy curtains for the dorm beds! There’s also a fantastic open-air rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a meal at any time of the day or night and take in the view all around you of the Sea of Marmara and the spreading
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One of the newest additions to Sultanahmet’s hostel scene, the Big Apple is a great choice for the historically-inclined traveler aiming to stay in the heart of İstanbul’s best and most famous sites. The building was restored in 2008, so all their facilities are up to date and modern, with all the amenities you need to keep in touch with the folks back home: wireless, guest computers, and phone and fax services.
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Akbıyık Cad. Bayram Fırını Sok. No. 12 +90 212 517 79 31 info@hostelbigapple.com www.hostelbigapple.com
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There’s a rooftop bar if you’re the partying type- and if you aren’t, you’ll still love chilling out here and taking in the Sea of Marmara view from atop the building. The beer is the same price all year- no high-
season price hike! Sit here for a drink or breakfast; they also have a great barbecue in case you come back after a long day of sightseeing and need something in your stomach. Dorms (mixed and female only) and privates (singles, doubles, and triples) are available.
İstanbul Hostel
Stylish yet simple, İstanbul Hostel is a great choice for budget travelers who value accessibility and good service. With both dorms and privates, İstanbul Hostel is just a short walk from the center of Sultanahmet, ideally located for visiting all of the monuments in historical İstanbul.
Kutlugun Sok. No. 35 +90 212 516 93 80 www.istanbulhostel.net
latest movies on a regular basis. Wireless is available not only in the lobby but in the rooms as well.
All the dorms have air conditioning and heating so you can sleep in comfort. The shared bathrooms are clean and tidy, not your typical grotty backpacker fare. There’s a 61-inch TV in the common room with movie theater-quality sound, and they show all the
İstanbul Hostel is all about comfort and safety- you can feel at home here while surrounded by all the fantastic mosques and bazaars of old İstanbul!
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Kadıköy
A laid-back and artsy suburb on İstanbul’s Asian side, Kadıköy is far less touristy than Beyoğlu or Sultanahmet. Jammed full of shops, restaurants, and bars, many İstanbulites will tell you that Kadıköy is their favorite part of the city. Take the ferry to get here from the European side; frequent services depart from all the docks, notably Karaköy, Beşiktaş, and Eminönü. Browse the lively fish market located at the waterfront, where stall owners shout out prices and enticements for their wares and you can find many a local searching for the best deal in town. Of course, everything is fresher than fresh. If a restaurant is more up your alley, Çiya Sofrası in Caferağa Mahallesi is a good choice- they have great local dishes as well as more international fare. In accordance with the more chilled out pace of the Asian side, you can start your visit with a walk along the Bosphorus in the cosmopolitan neighborhood of Moda. It’s one of the most pleasant walks in İstanbul- the area is upscale and pretty, with nice views across the water and numerous parks and restaurants scattered along the promenade. Kadıköy’s nightlife has a different feel to it than the wilder and more international crowd you’ll find near İstiklal. Still, this side of the Bosphorus is vastly popular with locals, and you’ll find a number of the city’s insider bars and clubs here, most with a much more “Turkish” feel to them than the expat-populated haunts across the water. Start your night at Kadife Sokak in central Kadıköy- colloquially known as “Bar Street,” Kadife is bustling with innumerable bars, most of which feature outdoor seating as well as indoor tables. In particular, look for Arka Oda, which is sure to come up in just about any conversation with an İstanbul-dweller when you broach the topic of their favorite bars. There are frequent concerts, so check out their schedule of upcoming shows at www.arkaoda.com.
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Kadıköy Hush Hostel Lounge The first hostel to break new ground on the Asian side of the city, Hush Hostel Lounge is definitely where budget travelers want to be for a taste of the “real” İstanbul. Hush is convenient to all kinds of public transportation- the bus and dolmuş stop is a two-minute walk down the street, as well as the ferry dock, and it’s by far the most suitable option if you have a flight in or out from Sabiha Gökçen airport. Even the famous train station, Haydarpaşa, is only a fiveminute walk away- from here you can catch any east-bound train out of İstanbul, to the far reaches of Turkey and beyond. Convenience is far from Hush’s only benefit, though. The building is unique and attractive, with a rooftop terrace and a backyard garden where you can smoke, read in the shade, or commune with the resident pets (three turtles and a number of cats). Although it’s close to all of Kadıköy’s best nightlife, Hush itself is more of a traveler’s meeting point than a loud and crazy party spot- you’ll be able to get a great night’s sleep here. Still, evening concerts are sometimes held. There’s a strong focus on international music, and you’re likely to hear fellow travelers putting on a show for you- or step up yourself! If you’re in a group of ten or more, the friendly staff will organize a special welcome night for you.
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Rıhtım Cad. İskele Sok. No. 46 +90 216 450 43 63 lounge@hushhostelistanbul.com www.hushhostelistanbul.com
There are four dorms (with female-only options if you prefer) as well as twelve private rooms, three of which have private bathrooms.
Also check out the affiliated restaurant and bar across from the opera house. Here you’ll find great food and affordable drinks, as well as international experimental music and house DJs playing world favorites on Fridays and Saturdays.
when you book through Hush’s website
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Islands
About twenty kilometers southeast of İstanbul in the Sea of Marmara lie nine islands, dubbed the Princes Islands due to the Byzantine practice of sending problematic princes there to be “taken care of.” Today, the islands are a popular weekend destination for Turks, and many international travelers make the trip as well in order to see the old churches and refined summer homes there. Except for specialty service vehicles, no cars are allowed on the islands, which makes for a pleasant walking environment- have a stroll or a picnic, or go for a ride in one of the horse-drawn carriages. The four largest islands are served by the İDO ferries around ten times per day in the summer; Büyükada (Big Island) is the most popular destination.
depending on which boat you take, and will set you back 6 TL for the round-trip. Make sure you get to the ferry terminal early if you want a seat with a good view! Take a look at the ferry schedule, which can be found at www.ido.com.tr Take note that the summer and winter schedules are different, as are the schedules for weekends and holidays. The easiest docks to catch a ferry from are Bostancı and Kabataş; the majority of the boats stop at Büyükada, with a smaller percentage docking at the lesser islands. The first departure from Kabataş on a typical morning is at 8:15 and the last ferry back to İstanbul from the Big Island is at 19:40.
Most of the ferries depart from the Kabataş dock, down the hill from Taksim Square. The journey takes around 50 to 90 minutes,
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Marine House Boutique Hotel Located right in the center of the Big Island, Marine House has a fantastic view of the surrounding Sea of Marmara- sit out on the terrace and take in the scenic beauty all around you. Still, you won’t have far to walk with your bags- it’s only about a hundred meters from the pier, where you can catch a ferry back to the center of İstanbul if you fancy a trip to the city’s historical sites.
Recep Koç Cad. No. 8 +90 216 382 29 29 info@marinehousehotel.com www.marinehousehotel.com
Tea and coffee are free, so spend a while hanging out in front of the fireplace with a drink or surfing the Internet, which is free here. There are no dorms, but the hotel has thirty private rooms so there should be one ready for you when you arrive. Still, call ahead if possible, as Marine House is definitely a favorite and the islands can be quite busy in the summer high season!
Marine House is kid-friendly, with a whole corner devoted to keeping your young ones occupied while you indulge in more grownup activities (sipping a beer while you watch the sunset over the water, maybe?). They have films and music for everyone’s tastes.
Büyükada Princess Hotel You’ll find Büyükada Princess Hotel in a picturesque nineteenthcentury building close to the water. There are 24 rooms with 56 beds between them, each one tidy and neatly furnished. Backpackers take note: this is more of an upscale establishment- come here if you’re looking for something a cut above the rest in the beautiful and out-of-the-way setting of the Princes Islands, but not if you’re looking for a cheap place to sling your pack and get partying.
İskele Meydana +90 216 382 16 28 info@buyukadaprincess.com www.buyukadaprincess.com
The rooms come standard with phones, private bathrooms, balconies, wireless Internet, and AC; wake-up calls are available if you need to catch an early ferry or just want to see the sunrise over the Sea of Marmara.
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Around
The popular Bosphorus cruises departing from the Eminönü dock are an ideal way to see İstanbul from a unique vantage point. Usually lasting about an hour and a half, the cruises will take you north up the strait and give you a terrific view of scores of the city’s most famous sights, including Topkapı Palace, the Maiden’s Tower, and Beylerbeyi Palace. Çengelköy (meaning “hook village”) is a pretty little neighborhood in the Asian district of Üsküdar. Well-known among the locals for its charming coastline, Çengelköy boasts an array of waterside cafes and restaurants, as well as alluring little teahouses where you can wile away a long afternoon of conversation. You can get here by taking the ferry from Eminönü or Beşiktaş. Located on the European side of the strait, Arnavutköy (meaning “Albanian village”) is a today a classic neighborhood in the modern district of Beşiktaş. Originally a Greek settlement, Arnavutköy was actually predominantly populated by Jewish settlers throughout most of its history. Check out the wooden mansions which date from the Ottoman period, as well as the numerous fish restaurants along the coast.
Another worthwhile daytrip takes you to Polonezköy, founded by Polish settlers in the mid-nineteenth century. Currently there are around a thousand permanent residents, of which roughly forty speak Polish as their first language. Investigate the Polish history all around the village, including churches and an interesting cemetery. One of the best stops for those intrigued by the unique roots of the place is the Memorial House of Zofia Rizi. If you’re keen to get a tan or go for a swim without busing it all the way down to the Mediterranean coast, have no fear: there are some great beaches right near İstanbul. Two of the best are Şile and Kilyos, both on the Black Sea coast and accessible by bus or ferry from the city center. They’re liable to be a bit crowded in the summer, but the beaches are well-maintained and the water is perfect for a refreshing dip.
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Although Turkish society can be quite conservative in some areas, İstanbul has a range of great options for gay and lesbian travelers. There are some excellent online resources for the gay community in Turkey, including www.lambdaistanbul.org (Turkish only) and www.turkeygay.net.
Ekoo Bar If you want an authentic experience at the bars you visit, this is the place for you. After watching drag queens dancing on the bartop, you can see bearded locals showing off some local moves. Those of you on a budget will be interested to know that Ekoo’s prices are more affordable than most gay locales.
The doors are open to everybody and you can run across people of all ages here. There’s even a newly-opened bear bar at Ekoo on the bottom floor; bears and bear lovers will find great entertainment on the first level! Find it at Tarlabaşı Boulevard no. 32, next to the Cartoon Hotel.
Tek Yön (One Way) One of İstanbul’s longest-running and most popular gay destinations, Tek Yön has a wide customer base. The roomy interior allows for more comfortable dancing space, where you can find great crowds (particularly on the weekends) and listen to a selection of mainly Turkish music. Among Tek Yön’s most
unique features is their no-women-allowed policy. Compared to straight clubs the prices may seem a little expensive, but if you’re willing to splash out a bit for a fantastic and exclusive experience, this is where you want to be. Check it out for yourself at Sıraselviler Caddesi no. 63 / 1 in Beyoğlu.
Otherside music. At Otherside, you’re right in the middle of things; don’t be surprised if you’re pulled into a dance show! This is where you belong if you’re looking for an awesome time with guys and girls. Otherside is located on on the fourth floor of number 2 Zambak Street, off İstiklal.
Otherside can safely be called a versatile destination, a bar where you can find shows, demonstrations, and even live music performances on some days. This popular gay-friendly place has an adorable open terrace and a great overall atmosphere, featuring primarily electronic and Turkish
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Tours
A professional guide can take straight you to İstanbul’s best-kept secrets. Many companies operating out of the city also run tours to the rest of Turkey, so if you want an insider view of the best the country has to offer, consider booking with one of them.
Tamzara Tur In operation since 1989, Tamzara has plenty of experience bringing travelers to the forgotten places of Turkey- they specialize in getting you off the well-beaten tourist track and instead on the path to adventure and less-known spots of natural beauty. Tamzara’s primary focus is on the Black Sea region to the east of İstanbul, although they also operate tours to Anatolia, including Cappadocia. Tamzara was founded by a professional mountaineer, so you can be sure that they’re well-equipped to keep you active outdoors. Their tours include skiing, cycling, rafting, and (of course) hiking in the Black Sea region’s amazing mountain ranges!
Yeniçarşı Cad. Kalkan Han No. 36/4 +90 212 251 98 64 bilgi@tamzaratur.com www.tamzaratur.com For the photographically-inclined, Tamzara offers a special Black Sea Photo Tour. No experience is necessary- just an enthusiasm for taking cool shots in fantastic locations! Get some of your best pictures ever with the guidance of an experienced tour leader and photographer; info sessions are held in the evenings, during which you can discuss your favorite shots of the day, as well as helpful tips and tricks, with your fellow travelers and with the experts.
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The Other Tour
Meşrutiyet Cad. No. 98 / 1, Beyoğlu +90 212 562 83 53 www.theothertour.com
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The name says it all when it comes to The Other Tour. Based in İstanbul and mainly operating tours of the city, they’ll show you a different side to the metropolis you thought you knew, straight into the lives of normal Turkish people. Instead of monuments and museums, they’ll take you to the heart of the cultureyou can see weddings, eat lunch with Turkish families, and take a walk around the neighborhoods most travelers don’t see.
NT The tours take one day, from start to finish, and are led by professional and experienced guides. Anybody interested in Turkish culture should make The Other Tour a top-of-the-list priority!
iloveyou Turkey iloveyouTurkey, recently founded by four local travelers, is focused on what they call “people tourism”; that is, ISCOU giving you an insight into the way that Turkish people actually live. Their tours are highly customizable. You can essentially tell them exactly what you want to do and they’ll organize it for you in an interactive way, allowing you to get a unique perspective on Turkish culture and tradition while still seeing all the cool sites
+90 505 8840495 info@iloveyouturkey.com www.iloveyouturkey.com
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you’re keen to visit. iloveyouTurkey is less of a traditional tour company than it is a service which will work with you to figure out how you can get the most out of your trip. This is the future of tours!
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Ankara Turkey’s capital city since the early 1920s, Ankara is also the country’s second largest metropolis after İstanbul. You may have been told to steer clear and spend your travel time elsewhere, but don’t be misled; Ankara’s reputation for being boring is greatly overstated and both partygoers and cultural history buffs will find plenty to occupy them. The Atatürk memorial, Anıtkabir, features huge collections of memorabilia belonging to Turkey’s most celebrated leader and is well worth a visit even if you aren’t typically a museum enthusiast. Take in his extensive sword collection, his impressive library, several of his cars, and even his favorite dog (taxidermied, of course). You can easily spend a day or three visiting Ankara’s many museums, from the METU Science and Technology Museum to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. If
monumental architecture is more your thing, head up to Ulus and explore the twisting alleys of Ankara’s hilltop castle, filled with small shops and surprises. If you’re in search of a good cafe or a stiffer drink, you’ll want to head to the central district of Kızılay. Bars and teahouses abound here, and many locations transform into booming clubs after dark. In particular, check out Nefes Bar located at Yenişehir Postanesi Karşısı (+90 312 433 02 80), a spacious spot with a restaurant and live music nearly every night. Being central in terms of both geographical location and political importance, Ankara is easy to reach from anywhere in the country and makes a great hub for further explorations of Turkey and beyond. Arriving by air, you’ll come in 28 kilometers northwest of the city proper. If buses are more your style, you’ll find yourself at the terminal locally known as AŞTİ, connected to the central districts by a metro line.
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Ankara Ankara Anadolu Otelcilik Among Ankara’s cheapest accommodation options is the Anadolu Otelcilik, which is primarily used as student lodging. They’re happy to take in travelers looking to cut down on hotel expenses, though, and will offer discounts for longer stays. Located a few metro stops away from the central otogar, it’s well connected to the rest of the city by public transport. Most of the students who stay here are planning to enter the tourism industry, so they’ll jump at the chance to
Bahriye Üçok Caddesi No: 2, Beşevler +90 312 212 66 27 123240@meb.gov.tr www.otmlankara.k12.tr give you tips and directions. You can opt for a single or double room with ensuite toilet and shower, or keep some extra money in your pocket by going for a room with a shared bathroom.
Aymini Hotel Aymini Hotel is a bright and slightly more upscale establishment. You’ll find a comfortable lobby with a TV and an assortment of newspapers and magazines, as well as tea available throughout the day. The rooms are spacious, with impressive showers, wide beds, and LCD televisions. Perhaps the best part is the location, which puts you close
Ziraat Mah. Atmaca Sok. No: 6, Dışkapı +90 312 312 66 06 www.ayminihotel.com to many of Ankara’s top sights, including the Column of Julian, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, and the Ethnographic Museum.
Hotel Mithat Great for families, Hotel Mithat is walking distance from some of the city’s best attractions. The staff speaks great English and can assist you with directions, maps, and recommendations on everything from the best museums to visit to the tastiest food in the area. With five floors, many of the rooms have terrific views of the cityscape- you might
Opera Meydanı, Tavus Sok. No: 2, Ulus +90 312 311 54 10 akman@otelmithat.com.tr www.otelmithat.com.tr want to order room service and have dinner while you gaze over the lights of Ankara.
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Çanakkale / Troy Originally settled around 3000 BC, Çanakkale is the seat of millennia of human history. Although numerous ancient civilizations have occupied the region through the years, the name most commonly associated with its former inhabitants is Hellespont. Noting the strategic location of the city on a map, it should come as no surprise that this area has been heavily contested; it stands just on the seafront, guarding the narrow passage toward the Sea of Marmara and on to İstanbul.
Çanakkale itself has taken advantage of the booming Trojan War tourism by erecting a massive wooden horse by the harbor. Feel free to climb up the ladders underneath and pretend you’re about to sack a city! As you would expect from such a historical place, there are several museums for those interested in getting a deeper understanding of Çanakkale’s previous incarnations. The Archaeological Museum on İzmir Caddesi is of particular note; study the prehistoric pottery and relics, nearly all of which were discovered in the surrounding countryside. Çanakkale is well-connected with the rest of Turkey; there are flights from İstanbul three times a week and buses are much more frequent, most of them stopping to let off passengers at the central ferry harbor.
Many visitors arrive in Çanakkale for a sole purpose: to tread in the footsteps of mythical heroes like Achilles and Hector, the warriors of Homer’s Iliad. Çanakkale is the closest modern city to the position of legendary Troy, and you can still make the 30-kilometer trip south to see the ruins left behind by nine destructions and reconstructions. Poorlyexecuted archaeological digs in the late 19th century caused some damage to the remains, but there’s still a ton left behind to fascinate the visitor, including a section of a wall from Troy IV, the stage in which historians suppose the Trojan War may have taken place.
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of remembrance at Anzac Cove, flanked by hundreds of their countrymen.
Brits, Aussies, and Kiwis will already be familiar with the tragic history of Gallipoli. During World War I, Allied forces attacked this strategic location in the Battle of the Dardanelles, so named because it took place on the northern bank of the Dardanelles Strait. The intention was to knock the Turkish forces out of the war, but what resulted was a staggering loss of life on both sides: a third of the casualties were Turkish, the rest Allied troops, with the total death toll exceeding 130,000. The battle became one of the most important in Turkish history, as well as for Australians and New Zealanders, who celebrate ANZAC Day on April 25th to memorialize the 1915 landings. Indeed, many Antipodeans make a point of visiting the battlefields of Gallipoli on this date in order to take part in the rituals
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The area is dotted with memorials erected in honor of the soldiers on both sides of the battle. There are separate cemeteries and memorials for British and Australian troops, French troops, New Zealand troops, and of course the Turkish men who lost their lives at Gallipoli. For a moving reflection on the place’s bloody history, walk from Anzac Cove to the Arıburnu Coastal Memorial, inscribed with Atatürk’s declaration that the Allied soldiers who died on Turkish soil are considered native sons as well. To visit the battlefields, take the ferry from Çanakkale across to Eceabat. From there, you can ask for current dolmuş routes or tour the area on foot.
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ANZAC House A founding member of the Turkish Youth Hostel Organization, ANZAC House operates with over 20 years of experience in the hostelling business. The accommodation is particularly geared toward budget travelers who come to Çanakkale with the aim of taking in the legacy of the historic battles fought in the surrounding land, and as such, they specialize in providing affordable, simple rooms as well as a wealth of information.
Cumhuriyet Meydanı No: 61 +90 286 213 59 69 hasslefree@anzachouse.com www.anzachouse.com There are rooms for every style of shoestring traveler here- dorms, singles, or doubles. You can find all the facilities you’ll need to make your stay comfortable and straightforward, including Internet, heating, and international phone services.
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Hassle Free Travel Agency In association with ANZAC Hostel, Hassle Free operates out of the same building, which really couldn’t get any more central- it’s just by the harbor in downtown Çanakkale, close to everything. The great majority of tours offered by Hassle Free are focused on Gallipoli and the World War I battlefields, although they also run several tours to Troy. Many travelers stop by in person and begin their tour right from the city, but there is also the option to depart from İstanbul (the İstanbul office is located Nakilbent Caddesi in Sultanahmet).
Cumhuriyet Meydanı No: 61 +90 286 213 59 69 hasslefree@anzachouse.com www.anzachouse.com If you’re interested in World War I, you shouldn’t miss out on a trip with Hassle Free; they’ll take you on a unique excursion during which you’ll approach the bay across the strait north of Çanakkale just as the Allied troops did. Making the same landing will be moving enough for anyone with an interest in the history of the war, but you’ll be extra grateful for the presence of a professional guide who can explain, with reference to the geography, exactly what happened and why.
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Assos / Behramkale Assos faces the Greek island of Lesvos and lies roughly 20 kilometers off the Çanakkale-İzmir highway. The town is actually in two parts, and you may hear it referred to as either Assos or Behramkale, both of which appear on road signs. The lower coastal section, which tends to be exceedingly expensive, is connected with the older village at the top of the hill by a steep and narrow road.
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Assos Kadırga Hotel CO
IS U Two kilometers east of Behramkale, in the quieter and more affordable town of Kadırga Koyu, you’ll find the Assos Kadırga Hotel. It’s perfect for travelers looking for a cheaper alternative to the expensive lodgings in Assos, and provides excellent access to some fantastic beaches. The water here is quite cold and crystal clear, ideal for a dip after sunbathing. Look out for the huge tuna fish jumping out in the sea!
Assos Kadırga Koyu +90 286 721 70 41 reservasyon@kadirgamotel.com www.kadirgamotel.com
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The upper village is characterized by cobbled alleyways and old stone buildings, lending it an antique charm. For a taste of the town’s ancient history, walk to the top of the hill above the old village and take a look at the Temple to Athena, built in the sixth century BC.
You can get some fantastic seafood at the Assos Kadırga, freshly caught. Most dishes
are accompanied by organic vegetables grown in the village. While you’re in the area, head 9 kilometers from the main road to Babakale, the westernmost point in mainland Asia. Affordable accommodation is limited, but it’s a great place to grab a bite to eat at one of the many spectacular seafood cafes along the water.
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Son Gemi Camping A hidden gem near Assos, Son Gemi is an outdoorsy, welcoming place to kick off your shoes and soak in the sunshine. They’ll provide you with a place to pitch your tent and offer you some tasty food from the offbeat cafe, where you can put your feet up and listen to some alternative tunes. The water’s perfect, bluer than blue and always inviting for a swim or a ISCOU fishing trip; the managers of Son Gemi can also help you to arrange diving trips if you want to take a look from under the waves!
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Unfortunately, there’s no public transport to Sokakağzı, but you can take the dolmuş running twice a day from Ayvalık to Gülpınar; get out at the turn for Koyunevi, and hitch a lift from there. Take note that the dolmuşes run less frequently during the winter months.
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Sokakağzı +90 286 723 40 09 hakmata@gmail.com www.songemicamping.com
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Bozcaada One of Turkey’s two Aegean islands, Bozcaada is a favorite holiday destination for İstanbullus looking to take a break from the stress of the megalopolis. As a result, pretty little hotels and boutiques are springing up like wildflowers across the island, lending a fresh charm to the antique houses and cobblestone streets.
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years; ancient coins from the area, in fact, depicted bunches of grapes! As you might expect, numerous winehouses and bars are scattered across the island; try Corvus, Talay, or Çamlıbağ; the latter will give you a tractor vineyard tour with the purchase of a large bottle of wine. To reach Bozcaada, you’ll need to take the car-accessible ferry from Geyikli Yükyeri Port, a little south of Çanakkale. One-way tickets aren’t sold, but the return tickets are flexible, and you aren’t required to settle on a date for your voyage back to Çanakkale. You can find the ferry schedule at
The forty square kilometer island (formerly known as Tenedos, a name you still may hear) is short on historical sights, apart from the impressive and well-preserved castle which was used by Venetians and Byzantines, among others. No worries, though- that just means that you’ll have more time to stroll around the town’s quaint alleys or sunbathe on the beach. The water is cold by Aegean standards, perfect for a cooling swim which will refresh you doubly after a morning of walking around in the sun. The seafood restaurants by the harbor are excellent but quite expensive; for more modestly-priced meals, search the back streets or hop a dolmuş 20 minutes south to Ayazma Beach. Bozcaada is justly famous for its wines, which are locally produced and widely available. The tradition of winemaking has been in place for thousands of
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Bozcaada
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Ada Camping Open every year during the summer months from May to October, Ada Camping is located five kilometers south of the harbor, reachable by the dolmuşes making the trip every twenty minutes. Bozcaada is a fantastic spot to get back to nature, and Ada Camping is definitely the place to do it; just a few hundred meters from the ISCOU island’s sandy southern beaches, it’s a sanctuary of peace and relaxation.
Ayazma +90 286 697 04 42 senayalir@mynet.com www.campingbozcaada.com
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You can pitch your own tent or hire one if you’ve come without. The tent
spots are shady and cool, and they’ll rent you any camping gear you require, including mats. Alternately, you can park your RV (multiway plugs are available) or opt for a bungalow. Breakfast, snacks, and all sorts of drinks- including alcohol- are available for purchase. If you want to branch out, there are numerous restaurants and reasonably-priced cafes along the water.
Mavi Boutique Otel Tucked away down a pretty little street, Mavi Boutique Otel is a picturesque and welcoming little place. They have a total of fifteen beds in seven rooms- a single, two triples, and four doubles. Each room is bright and clean, with the all-important air conditioning and 24-hour hot water. When you’re finished wandering the town or lingering over a cup of tea at the harbor, you can head to the garden area, a beautiful little spot with climbing vines and flowers, perfect for relaxing with a good book.
Alaybey Mahallesi Murat Bey Sokak No: 19 +90 286 697 02 19 maviboutiqueotelbozcaada@gmail.com
www.bozcaadatenedos.com
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Ayvalık The little town of Ayvalık, facing
in the vast population exchange between Greece and Turkey. Keep a sharp eye out and you can spot vestiges of its lost heritage in some of the crumbling buildings. Hike to the Devil’s Banquet, an outcropping with spectacular views of the town at sunset.
the Greek Aegean island of Lesvos, is a sleepy seaside rest stop perfect for an afternoon tour on foot or simply wiling away several hours indulging in some thankfully toutfree shopping. It’s a picturesque location, surrounded by rolling hills with pine and olive tree groves- indeed, one of Ayvalık’s biggest claims to fame is rooted in its production of high-quality olive oil.
Ayvalık is also known for its world-class music academy for violinists and cellists, as well as for the Harvard-affiliated Koç University summer program which brings students here to study the Ottoman language.
Inhabited by Greeks until 1922, Ayvalık became one of the many towns to participate
Alibey Island Otherwise known as Cunda, Alibey Island is connected to Lale Island and Ayvalık by a road bridge. Accordingly, dolmuşes and buses are available from the mainland if you don’t have your own transportation.
inside makes a stunning backdrop for the reliefs depicting the life of Jesus. If you have time to spare, consider giving the Moonlight Monastery and Saint Nicola Church a look as well. To the north of Alibey Island, look out over Poroselene Bay, which enjoyed a brief interval of fame as the home of a dolphin who saved a drowning boy.
Visit Taksiyarhis Church, built in 1873, for a view of the most important feature of the island’s religious landscape. The marble
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Ayvalık
Taksiyarhis Pension İsmetpaşa Mah. Maraşal Çakmak Caddesi No. 71 +90 266 312 14 94 info@taksiyarhispension.com www.taksiyarhispension.com There’s a common kitchen available for guest use if ISCOU you prefer to cook your own food, although the owners can prepare a delicious breakfast for you for ten Turkish lira if you prefer. Maybe you’d like to sample some of the dishes at the local restaurants in Ayvalık- no problem, because Taksiyarhis is centrally located, only 500 meters from the main square, and the proprietors will be only too happy to recommend their favorite eateries. The central location also makes it easy to reach the beaches nearby, and catching a dolmuş to Sarimsakli or some of the closer shores is a straightforward endeavor.
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Taksiyarhis is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful pensions you’re likely to come across. On entering this 140-year old stone and wooden building, you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped into a special kind of paradise on earth- the name Taksiyarhis, which comes from a name given to archangels, is definitely appropriate here. The three terraces and all of the common spaces are tastefully decorated with bright throws and comfy pillows; stained-glass windows and whimsical wall decorations complete the picture.
Choose from the dorm room or a range of privates; all have shared bathrooms due to the age of the building, but they’re spotless and you’ll only have to share with one or two other rooms. No matter where you choose to sleep, you’re guaranteed to have air conditioning.
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Aşiyan Pansiyon The clean and affordable Aşiyan Pension is a great choice if you’re looking for a fully equipped yet no-frills place to stay, hasslefree. There’s a washing machine, fridge, iron, and stove for general use by guests, and the rooms are much better equipped than the majority of pensions- you’ll find a hairdryer, a satellite TV, A/C, a mini-fridge, and an ensuite bathroom. And if you’re eager to keep in touch or check the news, never fear. There’s a strong wireless signal so you can use the Internet in your own room as well as in any of the common areas.
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Ali Çetinkaya Meydanı No: 10 +90 266 327 19 25 osman@cundaasiyan.com www.cundasiyan.com
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The manager can give you tips and directions for anything you might want to see on or around Cunda, including sights and restaurants. While you’re here, poke around the fun gift shop, featuring a number of products made from local olive oil- it’s a great way to pick up a souvenir of the region without having to deal with touts.
Tutku Pension Tutku Pension is as pretty from the outside as it is inside, so you’ll be pleasantly surprised as soon as you arrive on the doorstep. Located centrally on Alibey Island, Tutku is situated down the picturesque small streets which characterize Cunda, and the atmosphere is all brightness and light. You can relax in the garden with your breakfast or catch a moment to yourself in your room.
Cumhuriyet Caddesi, behind Taş Kahve +90 266 327 19 65 bilgi@tutkupansiyon.com www.tutkupansiyon.com packed with travelers- if you’re after privacy, you can feel like you’re the only one here, and if you prefer to socialize, you’ll find it easy to strike up a conversation with one of the few other guests. One of the five rooms can accommodate three people, and the other four two each; all of them have A/C, ensuite bathrooms, a minibar, and spare toiletries in case you forgot your shampoo.
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The pension has five rooms with a total of eleven beds, so it’s never
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İZMİR The modern city of İzmir is characterized by wide streets lined with designer boutiques and massive, glass-fronted offices. As Turkey’s third-largest city, it’s a hub of both transportation and business, and generally speaking has a more contemporary, commercial feel than other major urban areas in the country. In fact, you may at times feel that you’re in Greece or southern Italy rather than Turkey. That vibe, however, owes a lot to the setting as well. Ringed by picturesque mountain ranges and nestled next to a spreading bay, İzmir is as Mediterranean as it gets. Palm trees grow in abundance along the broad
boulevards of the city and cool sea breezes are a welcome relief from the maddeningly hot and humid summers which plague travelers to the region. The spring and fall, when the temperatures are more reasonable, are nice times to visit İzmir; winters, but contrast, tend to be cold and rainy. Snow is rare, although not unheard of. İzmir is an exceedingly old city. It was founded more than 5000 years ago as the Trojan city of Smyrna; Homer spent much of his life here. Smyrna changed political hands many, many times over the centuries, belonging to not only the Greeks but also the Persian empire, the Roman empire, the Byzantines, the Ottoman empire, and (of course) modern Turkey. Still, there’s not as much in the way physical history in the form of ruins as you might as expect. İzmir’s had a bit of a problem with natural disasters throughout its past, and suffered through several which destroyed large numbers of the historical buildings. An earthquake around 200 AD erased much of the city’s original foundations, and- much more recently- a devastating fire in the 1920s again leveled a significant portion of İzmir’s historical buildings. Check out Kadifekale, an impressive castle crowning a hill, as well as the asansör (elevator) which was originally constructed in 1907.
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İzmir Konak Saray Hotel The 1855 Ottoman-style building housing Konak Saray Hotel will leave a good impression immediately, and rest assured, you won’t be let down by what you find inside. There are 27 rooms available, all sparking clean and outfitted with A/C, satellite TV, 24-hour hot water, a wireless Internet connection, and a minibar. It’s the magnificent terrace restaurant which really sets Konak Saray apart from its competitors, though- all it will take
Anafartalar Caddesi No: 635, Çankaya +90 232 483 69 46 info@konaksarayhotel.com www.konaksarayhotel.com is of their dinners featuring both Turkish and international cuisine while staring out at the stars and the city, and you’ll be asking about next week’s availability.
Güzel İzmir Oteli In operation for over sixty years, Güzel İzmir is a popular and fairly well-known budget option in İzmir. Wi-fi access is included in the price of all rooms, as well as a delicious buffet breakfast in the newly-renovated breakfast room which doubles as a meeting area, with a 50-person capacity. Each room comes with air conditioning and a television with international channels such as the BBC in case
Fevzi Paşa Bulvarı 1368 Sok. No: 8, Basmane +90 232 483 50 69 guzelizmirotel@gmail.com www.guzelizmirhotel.com you’d like to keep up with the news. The staff at Güzel İzmir are friendly and helpful, with years of experience directing travelers to the best of the city. Don’t hesitate to approach them with questions about your itinerary!
Hotel Baylan Basmane Close to a range of public transportation and only fifteen minutes’ walk from the seaside, Hotel Baylan is safe, tidy, and convenient. Some of the rooms have balconies with views over the nearby water, and even guests without a balcony can head to the pool area for a swim. There are separate pool areas for children and adults- no worries if you feel like doing laps without kid interference, and equally so if
1299 Sok. No: 8, Basmane +90 232 483 14 26 www.hotelbaylan.com you’re traveling with your family. The food at Baylan is excellent- Turkish, Chinese, and Indian food are available throughout the afternoon and evening, and you can get room service if you’re too tired to socialize in the garden.
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Bergama Bergama, about two hours from İzmir or nearly ten from İstanbul by bus, makes a terrific hub for exploring the historical sites around Turkey’s north Mediterranean coast. With 60,000 residents, it’s much smaller than İzmir and can be a pleasanter place to to base yourself out of if you’re not the huge-metropolis type. Still, Bergama is large enough to offer pretty much anything you’re looking for in a travel headquarters.
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towns and ruins, don’t forget to budget some time for the gems contained in the city proper. The temples and mosques are of particular interest, and anybody with an archaeological bent will appreciate the archaeology museum displaying many of the finest artifacts from around the area. If you’re on the hunt for souvenirs, consider Bergama’s booming carpet scene. Those on a tighter budget should consider looking for a bottle of homemade wine. It’s made primarily for and by locals, so don’t feel like you’re getting tourist kitsch!
Bergama contains a number of truly awesome historical sites; even if you’re planning to spend most of your time exploring nearby
Bergama’s Acropolis You can spot the magnificent acropolis, towering over the eastern side of the city, from anywhere in Bergama. You can walk or drive up to the summit, some five kilometers from the center of the city. There is an admission fee, so make sure you’ve got some lira on you when you make the hike. The temples of Trajan and Athena are among the most impressive buildings to be found here. Both have been partially restored using the original materials. The site of the Library of Pergamum lies between the two; once containing over 200,000 volumes, it was famous for its size in ancient times.
Also well worth checking out is the majestic Hellenic Theater behind the temples, from which you can gaze out over the breathtaking panorama of Bergama below. When you’re finished wandering up and down the well-preserved steps of the theater, take the promenade over to the Temple of Dionysus.
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Allanoi The small settlement of Allanoi lies approximately 20 kilometers from Bergama; make it a day-trip if you’re basing yourself out of the city. Allanoi, famous for its natural spa, enjoyed the height of its prominence around the second century AD under the Roman empire. Curiously, there is only one known mention of the site in ancient documents; Aelius Aristides made a note of it in his discussion of the healing sciences around 100 AD. Unfortunately, a plan laid by the Turkish State Hydraulic Works in the 1990s calls for necessitated damming the İlya River in order to increase the efficacy of agriculture around Bergama. Despite heated protests from UNESCO and the European Union (among others), the dam has recently been completed and much of Allanoi now lies under a thick layer of sand.
Gobi Pension
Conveniently located in the ISCOU center of Bergama, Gobi pension is a cozy and colorful establishment which will make you feel like a member of the family rather than a visitor passing through. It’s close to some of Bergama’s most prominent sites- the archaeological museum is a mere 400 meters away, and it’s less than a kilometer to the Asklepion.
Zafer Mah. İzmir Cad. No. 18 +90 232 633 25 18 gobipension@hotmail.com www.gobipension.com
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The rooms here are clean and safe; most feature a balcony and an ensuite bathroom, not to mention air conditioning, which you’ll thank your lucky stars for in the sticky summers. Check out the sunny garden
with flowers galore and climbing ivy. Feel free to use the kitchen if you’re still hungry after feasting on the filling and delicious complimentary breakfast, or alternately, the managers will be happy to prepare lunch for you on request. Take advantage of the laundry service after you make the trek up to the acropolis- you’ll need it!
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Odyssey Guest House is a bookISCOU lover’s paradise! Rumored to be the largest in all of Turkey (okay, it’s an unconfirmed rumor, but if it’s not the biggest then it’s certainly close), their book exchange ranks up there as a must-see in Bergama. Grab a novel or head to the reference section if you’re trying to put together a plan for your next few days; they have offerings in tons of different languages.
Talatpaşa Mah. Abacıhan Sok. No. 13 Tel: +90 232 631 35 01 kirmazfamily@hotmail.com www.odysseyguesthouse.com
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private bathrooms. There’s hot water 24/7, so your showers will always be nice and steamy. The kitchen is available for guests to use- try your hand at Turkish cooking and then take your meal up to the scenic terrace or down to the spacious common room. Laundry service and breakfast are available for an extra fee.
Stay in one of their eleven rooms, all of which have AC and most of which also feature
Böblingen Pension Just 300 meters from the central bus station, Böblingen Pension ISCOU is an optimal choice if you aren’t keen on dragging your bags all around the city. It’s safe and quiet, an ideal place to chill out after a long day of touring the best of the old city. Böblingen has been in operation since 1989, so this family-run place has decades of experience to make your stay the most comfortable and convenient humanly possible. The owners are fonts of information about the city and its surroundings- ask them anything you want to know and they’re sure to have an answer handy! Turkish, English, and German are spoken, so don’t worry about any language barrier.
Zafer Mah. 3 Sok. No. 2 Tel: +90 232 633 21 53 dincer_altin@hotmail.com www.boblingenpansiyon.com
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Fourteen rooms are available (singles, doubles, and triples) all year round- book a stay in the winter if you want to avoid those sweaty Mediterranean summers. Breakfast is included for all guests and you can get a home-cooked dinner for an extra charge.
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Foça
Roughly 70 kilometers north of central İzmir, the small municipality of Foça has a rich history and some beautiful beaches- day-trip it or stop by on your way north. Don’t be confused by the names, though, as there are two towns called Foça. Yenifoça (New Foça) lies south of the one you probably want to visit, Eskifoça (Old Foça), with the similarly-dubbed Phocaea in the middle of the two. The name of this originally Greek city comes from the word for “seal” (fok in Turkish) due to the huge communities of the animals living in the nearby sea. There are tons of well-preserved archaeological sites here, mostly stemming from the Greek period prior to the Persian invasion in 546 BC, which effectively ended the golden age of Foça. One of the most impressive of these is the Temple of Athena, which is still undergoing excavations. Also be sure to see the ancient theater, as well as the numerous historical mosques from more recent periods.
Getting to Foça Since it lies quite some way outside the main center of İzmir, getting to Foça used to be a confusing and time-consuming affair. Fortunately, this is all changing this year with the installation of a brand-new metro train throughout the whole of İzmir which is projected to cut travel times in half. From the airport, you can take the Aliağa train and reach Foça on a single ticket; get off at Biçerova and take a dolmuş the last 3 kilometers to town. Of course, you can still reach Eskifoça by other means as well. If you have your own car, take the road north toward Çanakkale and turn after 39 kilometers, continuing 26 more kilometers until you reach Foça. Otherwise, buses are also available from central İzmir, running from six in the morning until eleven at night- but the metro is likely to be the cheapest and least convoluted method.
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Foça
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Siren Pansiyon Siren Pension is a tidy and calm retreat situated in the heart of Foça, just a short walk from the beach. The managing family of the pension has over twenty years of experience running accommodation for locals and international travelers alike; they speak English and Turkish as well as German, and are always ready to give you the lowdown on the area or just chill out with you on ISCOU the terrace and have a chat.
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İsmetpaşa Mah. 161 Sok. No. 13 +90 232 812 26 60 info@sirenpansiyon.com www.sirenpansiyon.com
Twelve rooms are available, with options for two, three, or four guests. They’re closed in the winter
(from December to March), so the pension has a permanently summery feel to it. The balconies found in most of the rooms, as well as the common terrace, get plenty of sun and have awesome sea views, great for tanning or just hanging out with a drink in hand to reflect on your day.
İyon Pansiyon
The rooms are all spacious and wellequipped. Wireless Internet is available, as well as satellite TV and mini fridges in most of them. You can even check out their website beforehand and look at pictures so you can
İsmetpaşa Mah. 198 Sok. No. 8 +90 232 812 14 15 bilgi@iyonpansiyon.com www.iyonpansiyon.com reserve the room you like best (be warned though, their English site is still under construction). Ask about car rentals and tours- the staff at İyon can get discounts for you! Free welcomedrink COUNT & free pick-up within Foça
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If it’s character you’re after in Foça, don’t hesitate: make your way directly to İyon Pension. The place is full of fun and bright decorations and the staff is a joy as well, with a terrific sense of humor and a mission to make your stay memorable. They’ll insist that you let them know if anything is amiss, and they mean it- İyon not just a business but also a home. They go the extra mile here, with friendly touches like delivering a morning paper to your door if you request it!
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Delphin Tour Boat Grab your sunscreen and get geared up for a cruise! Delphin will take you out to the open sea for a day you won’t soon forget, and you’ll come back tanned and smiling. Although the company’s name might make you think of dolphins, it’s the seals Foça was named for that you’re most likely to see. Make sure you bring your camera to get a few shots of these playful creatures. The cruises are limited to ten people, so don’t worry that you’ll be sardined in. Delphin takes pride in keeping their tours low-volume and relaxing and with over fifty
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Küçükdeniz Liman +90 232 812 50 11 delphinyacht@gmail.com years of experience in the business, they’ve certainly perfected the art. In the six hours you’ll spend on the boat, there are four stops for swimming and chilling out. Watch the waves as you eat your lunch (vegetarian options are available!) or buy some alcohol if you’re so inclined. German, English, and French are all spoken here!
Fokai Balık Restaurant Spending all day by the waves of the Mediterranean might make you crave some seafood. Mosey down to the harbor and seat yourself at Fokai Fish Restaurant, where you can choose from a huge array of dishes made from local catches, some of which are purchased daily at the fish market in town.
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You can get shrimp, calamari, and of course just about any sort of fish your heart desires. Vegetarian options can also be had,
Atatürk Mah. 121 Sok. No. 8 +90 232 812 21 86 egemensails1990@hotmail.com including some famous vegetable dishes from İzmir, so don’t give this place a miss just because you aren’t keen on fish. It can be packed in the summer time, so get there early if you want a prime table. Any time around sunset is a great choice, as the sea views are incredible and you can watch the sun sinking over the water- don’t miss it!
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Ephesus
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Ephesus Ephesus is one of Turkey’s foremost archaeological sites: and no wonder, as it has a long and varied history which left behind some of the country’s most stunning ruins anywhere. Located about four kilometers from Selçuk, it’s possible to walk to the site; otherwise, you can take one of the dolmuşes from the town center, which depart every fifteen minutes. Ephesus is known in Turkish as Efes, which, if you’ve been here for a while, you’ll probably instantly recognize as the name of the most popular brand of beer in Turkey! Ephesus was originally founded by the Greeks and enjoyed a prominent status as one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League. After it was conquered, it was for many years the second largest city in the entire Roman empire, after Rome itself. In fact, in the first century BC, Ephesus was the second-largest city not only of the empire but of the world. The famous Temple of Artemis, known for being one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, was located here. Sadly, it was destroyed in 401 AD by an angry multitude and the only part which can be seen today is a lone column. Still, archaeology enthusiasts will be far from disappointed by the remarkable ruins still in abundance here. Don’t miss the Library of Celsus, with its grand entrance, which once housed over 12,000 volumes and had reading rooms constructed particularly to take advantage of natural light. Also see the temples of Hadrian and Domitian, in various stages of reconstruction, which feature wonderful reliefs. Also check out the recently-discovered gladiator graveyard. You can see many artifacts from Ephesus in the archaeological museum in nearby Selçuk, although a large percentage of the finds have been relocated to the British Museum and the Ephesos Museum in Austria.
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Boomerang Guest House Run by a hospitable English-speaking family, Boomerang Guest House is an affordable and chilled out place to sling your bags and have some fun. Anybody is welcome at Boomerang, but as the name suggests, Aussies will feel particularly at home here- from Down Under-themed decor to the complimentary Vegemite on offer at breakfast-time, this guest house is packed with little touches to make backpackers feel like they’re back in the southern hemisphere.
Atatürk Mah. Sevgi Yolu No. 1047 Sok. No. 10 +90 232 892 4879 boomerangguesthouse@hotmail.com www.boomerangguesthouse.com linens and a traditional Turkish breakfast included in the price. If you’re looking for a change of pace and a different way to explore Selçuk, consider hiring one of the bicycles offered by Boomerang.The staff can also arrange airport transfers or help you with a broad spectrum of other travel matters- tours, car rental, plane tickets, and bus schedules, to name just a few.
But don’t get too comfortable lounging around, because Boomerang has got a perfect location for exploring the ancient wonders of the area. It’s just a short walk from the archaeological museum if you’re dying to check out some of the artifacts found at nearby Ephesus. If you’re in more of an outdoorsy mood and want to head straight to the site itself, no worries. Boomerang can help you arrange transport to Ephesus. They’ll also organize tours for you to nearby Şirince, Pamukkale, or to the Greek islands to the west.
Also check out the affiliated Boomerang Restaurant and Bar, where all kinds of food is served, from Turkish-style grills and other local favorites to salads and more international fare for those of you battling a little homesickness. It’s right next door the the hostel in a renovated historical building with a beautiful garden.
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Take your pick between singles, doubles, triples, or dorm rooms with ensuite bathrooms; all of them come standard with clean
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No Frills Ephesus Tours If you normally shy away from organized tours but still wish you could reap the rewards of being shown around by a professional, No Frills is for you. Unlike many other tour companies, they recognize that you’d rather spend your time seeing the sights and learning about the fascinating history of Ephesus than being dragged into yet another gift shop. No Frills promises just that- an informative and fun experience without the hassle of shopping stops.
Atatürk Mah. Sen Jean Cad. No: 3A, Selçuk +90 232 892 88 28 max@seaspirittravel.com www.nofrillsephesustours.com
the Ephesus tour (half day or full day) and the perennial favorite, the ANZAC tour, of particular interest to Kiwis, Brits, and Aussies. A tour with No Frills is an interactive experience starting from right when you book- make sure to let them know if you’d like to see something which isn’t on the normal route, or if you have any special needs you’d like them to accommodate.
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They offer a range of different tours to fit your schedule and your budget. Among the more popular options are
ANZ Guesthouse
Another obvious favorite with traveling Aussies and Kiwis, ANZ Guesthouse is colorfully decorated in the Turkish style with couches and kilims galore. Kick off your boots and head to the rooftop terrace for ISCOU nice views and good company.
1064 Sok. No. 10 +90 232 892 60 50 info@anzguesthouse.com www.anzguesthouse.com
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There’s a book exchange so you can plan out the next leg of your trip- of course, don’t hesitate to pose your questions to the staff, also, since they’re full of recommendations and great advice. There’s no bar here, but feel free to head to the store and bring back your own beers if you want to relax with a cold one in the afternoon or save some money by working on a bit of a buzz before you hit the town at night.
Private rooms can house between one and four people, and there are also dorms for 12-15 if you want to stretch your budget a little farther.
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Şirince
The tiny village of Şirince was populated by Greeks until the population exchange which took place in 1923; since then, Muslim Turks have made it their home. Only eight kilometers from Selçuk, Şirince is an easy day-trip. Taking the dolmuş to get there is a hassle-free experience, and there’s one departing in either direction every hour. Today, Şirince is primarily known as a producer of fine fruit wines. Perhaps surprisingly, this is a recent development, and the shift toward wine tourism has come only in the last several decades after a German man named Helmut Hermann Krauss fell in love with the town and decided to start producing wine there. After teaming up with a local and establishing the Artemis Şirince restaurant, he pioneered a line of delicious and aromatic fruit wines- take an afternoon and sample them for yourself! It all started with the blueberry variety, so you might want to begin with that one as well.
Pagan Egg Painting at Simyacı Şirince isn’t just about wine, though, and there are plenty of alternative experiences to be had here. One of the coolest is certainly a visit to Simyacı handicrafts center, where they specialize in egg painting. Eggs are symbolic in the pagan traditions of hundreds of cultures worldwide, and Turkey is no exception; you’ll sometimes see people putting eggshells on plants to ward off the evil eye, for instance, and a handkerchief full of eggs is traditionally given to the parents of a newborn after forty days. Eggs are considered the most perfect package on earth- flawless and seamless, they symbolize the universe itself and the rebirth of the fruitful world after the long winter.
+90 505 641 64 yumart@gmail.com Painted eggs take on added significance due to the patterns or images they are given by the artisan. Head to Simyacı while you’re in Şirince and take a look at the vast array of different painted egg designs, all done by hand. They’ll give you a guide to the symbolism so you can work out what each one means for yourself!
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Dereli Kaplankaya Wines Wine-making in Turkey has an incredibly long history. Grapes grow in abundance in its Mediterranean climate, which means that wine has been made here for almost as long as the necessary technologies have been available and there have been thirsty people around to drink it. In fact, Turkey is among the countries which could have been the birthplace of wine-making, although Georgia is typically assumed to hold that particular honor.
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Everyone is familiar with a range of commercial wines, but in Şirince, smaller business and local people have started a tradition of making their own at home. Wine-making is a tricky process. It can essentially be boiled down to creating a solution which allows yeast to grow, waiting while it ferments, stopping the process at an appropriate stage, bottling the resulting wine, age it, and drinking it. However, in reality, these steps are much more difficult- a number of chemicals are used to improve the quality of the wine, and each type of wine brings its own complications to the process.
Şirince Village +90 232 898 32 28 info@sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com www.sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com
from eight different fruits, including quince, tangerine, and peach. They use the natural flavors of the fruits without artificial flavoring- take a gander at the variety of wines they offer and choose your favorite from the creative list. Dereli Kaplankaya has three locations in Şirince. Stop at any one of them for a great gift to bring back to your friends at home or drink it yourself!
Dereli Kaplankaya Wines is one of Şirince’s most esteemed wine houses. They’ve been in operation since 1999 and have built a solid reputation for themselves as one of the classiest establishments in town- stop by and see the shop yourself, all dark wood and fancy kilims. The wines are produced
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Şirince Artemis Restaurant & Wine House Şirince Artemis Restaurant is impossible to miss- it’s the very first thing you’ll see as you come into town. If you’re here for the winesand you probably are- then make a point of hitting Artemis at some point. Established in 1996, it’s among the first wine houses in town, and definitely one of the best as well. UNT
+90 232 898 32 40 ismetbursali@artemisrestaurant.com www.artemisrestaurant.com of different themed rooms, each with its own distinctive character, or sit outside in the sunshine beneath rows of pine trees. All kinds of natural products are on the menu here, as well as a huge variety of local dishes utilizing ingredients grown in the village.
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Atmospheric and utterly elegant, Şirince Artemis is a perfect place to spend a romantic evening, or just stop by with friends to sample the aromatic wines and delicious food. Choose from a number
Dionysos Houses
Based in a restored 200-year old building, Dionysos is a stylish homestead with an oldfashioned vibe. Don’t be deceived, thoughall the modern amenities you want to make your stay comfortable are, of course, available here, including air conditioning and wi-fi and ensuite bathrooms in all of the rooms. Some of the ten rooms (one suite and eight doubles) even have fireplaces to keep you warm in the winter, as Dionysos is open all year round.
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stomach in the morning before you head out for a long and exhausting day of wine-tasting. After you get back, don’t go straight to bed, but spend a while sitting on the terrace and stargazing.
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Şirince Village +90 232 898 31 30 info@dionysospension.com www.dionysospension.com
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Kuşadası (“Bird Island”, referring to the small Pigeon Island just off the mainland) is a resort town popular with international visitors and Turks alike. With roughly 50,000 permanent residents, Kuşadası spends the winters in relative silence, growing significantly ISCOU in the high summer season with the influx of tourists. The modern town center and harbor area is lined with shops and small cafes, where you can find good deals on carpets and other souvenirs with some patience and a little skill at the age-old art of haggling.
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Accommodation options are numerous here, but one of the most highly-recommended is without a doubt Sezgin Hotel, which offers single, double, or triple rooms. The owner is a former traveler himself, and has gone out of his way to furnish the place with everything you might need for your life on the road. There’s an Internet cafe if you don’t have your own laptop along (and wi-fi for those of you who do); log on here for a bit and smoke a water pipe, locally known as nargile.
Aslanlar Cad. No. 68 +90 256 614 42 25 sezginhotel@hotmail.com www.sezginhotel.com
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the staff themselves, who have done their share of traveling around Turkey and have tons of ideas ready to offer you in English, German, Korean, or Japanese. Also check out the restaurant and barbecue in their beautiful garden! Breakfast is a buffet, included in the price, so you’re sure to start each day with a full stomach. Getting to Kuşadası is usually a pretty straightforward affair; catch a bus from most cities in Turkey. A stay in Kuşadası is also a great opportunity to take a brief sojourn in Greek territory, as there are daily ferry services to the Greek island of Samos.
There’s an outdoor swimming pool and a book exchange as well, the latter featuring a number of guidebooks to the region so you’ll have no trouble planning out the next leg of your journey. If it’s recommendations you’re after, though, another awesome resource is
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Gökova/Akyaka The tiny town of Gökova, with only about 1500 inhabitants in the off-season, has been growing in popularity with holiday-goers since the 1970s. These days, it enjoys a modest popularity during the summer high season, and you’ll find it busy, though not overrun, in June and July. Despite being an ancient settlement, Gökova has no ruins of any major significance. Most visitors come for the natural beauty to be found here, due to the town’s location on the scenic “Plain of Heaven”, as well as the wide variety of wildlife thriving in the wetlands nearby. Otters, flamingos, pelicans, and herons are all relatively common, and if you’re lucky you might see all of them; increase your chances of a sighting by coming in the wintertime. If bird-watching is too low-key for you, consider paragliding from the nearby Akyaka, a sport which has been growing in recent years. There are now several options for paragliding companies; ask around!
Okaliptus Apart Maybe you’ve fallen in love with Gökova and want to hang around here for a whileconsider ditching the hostels and getting your own apartment in town for as long as you feel like staying. The freedom of your own place will be liberating after sharing dorms with half a dozen other people for weeks! ISCOU
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Akyaka Beldesi, Volkan Sok. No. 2 +90 252 243 43 70 info@okaliptusapart.com www.okaliptusapart.com
Okaliptus can arrange one, two, or three bedroom apartments for you. All of them come standard with certain facilities you’d expect in a flat (Internet, kitchens, and TVs) as well as some you may not, like twice-weekly housekeeping and hairdryers. There’s a swimming pool available as well as a snack bar.
Since Okaliptus mainly caters to the traveler crowd, they’re well equipped to help you with anything you might require in the way of tours or transportation. Boat trips and daytours can be arranged, as well as more mundane things like babysitting services and laundry.
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Rüzgar Cafe & Bar Rüzgar is absolutely a one-stop shop for everything you need in Gökova. There’s a waterfront cafe and bar where you can grab a drink and chill out in the sun while you decide what to do next- and you’ll find that you’re in exactly the right place to be making that decision!
Salih Sok. No. 2 Akyaka +90 252 243 42 17 info@gokovaruzgar.com www.gokovaruzgar.com
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That’s because apart from the food-and-drink side of things, Rüzgar specializes in hooking you up with any and all activities that can be found here in Gökova. Take your pick and spend a day trying your hand at any of them; don’t miss Rüzgar’s equipment shop, where
you can stock up on all the top-of-the-line watersports gear you’ll need to start an illustrious career as a professional fun-haver.
Mayısevi After a while on the road, most travelers succumb to the fatigue of days spent in buses and indistiguishable dorm rooms... if that sounds familiar, you can’t afford to miss Mayısevi. Their whole philosophy revolves around the idea that everyone needs to get back to nature now and then. You’ll feel like you’re in Eden here. Anyone who shares Mayısevi’s appreciation for nature will love the homegrown organic food and the beautiful garden; there’s also a common kitchen so you can prepare your own meals if cooking is your forte.
İnişdibi Mah. Barzalar Sokak +90 252 243 44 36 mayisevi@gmail.com www.mayisevi.com Mayısevi isn’t purely about chilling out in the greenery, though- ask about their alternative ANZAC tours, or the range of other activities they can organize for adventurous travelers!
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Bodrum The pretty resort town of Bodrum is located on a peninsula not far from Muğla. It was once the site of the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World; you can see the foundations a short way from the marina. Although there remains little to see of the iconic structure today, Bodrum still features a variety of sights and activities to tempt visitors. Bodrum Castle (also known as the Castle of Saint Peter) was constructed by the Knights Hospitaller over 600 years ago, utilizing the remains of the destroyed Mausoleum. Considered the town’s foremost landmark, it has been extraordinarily preserved. Don’t miss the castle’s great views while you’re exploring! A more unusual stop is the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, the best museum in the region and one of the finest in all of Turkey. Its award-winning displays feature artifacts recovered from countless shipwrecks off the country’s coasts. Bodrum’s fantastic nightlife is definitely a major factor in its continuing tourist appeal, and you’ll find bars and clubs open at all hours if you want to join the crowds for drinks and dancing. The beaches in town are somewhat less inviting, which is why you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to hop on a dolmuş and explore the rest of the peninsula (with larger beaches and cleaner water)! The best ones are found northwest of Bodrum besides little bays- make your way along the peninsula’s northern coast to Gölköy, Türkbükü, Gündoğan and Yalıkayak. Bodrum has a variety of sleeping options, though many of them tend toward the expensive side. Some safe choices are Okyanus Otel (+90 252 316 73 15; Atatürk Cad. Eski Adliye Sok. No: 40) and Hotel Kalender (+90 252 319 33 10; Gumber Mah. Ayaz Cad. No:50). Getting to Bodrum should be fairly hassle-free, although many bus lines will bring you to Muğla an require a change to carry on the rest of the way. A huge number of operators run the route from Istanbul (13 hours), Ankara, Antalya, and other major cities across Turkey. There’s also an airport 35 kilometers outside of town, or you could hop over by ferry from the Greek islands of Kos and Rhodes.
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Bodrum Hanende Restaurant You might have come to Bodrum for the party atmosphere and the sandy beaches, but after a while you may find yourself craving a bit of a more low-key environment (maybe after a big night out?). If you want a break from all the tourists, there’s no better way to escape the crowds than a meal at Hanende Restaurant.
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The place is geared mainly toward locals, so it’s an ideal spot to skip out from the bustle of Bodrum’s resort feel and get a taste of the real culture- no pun intended. The fare is primarily traditional Turkish dishes garnering high reviews from residents; the
Çarşı Mah. Taşlık Sokak chicken and stuffed grape leaves (dolma) come particularly highly recommended! All of the food is made in the Turkish ev yemek- home food- style, and many of the ingredients are grown right on-site in the restaurant’s private garden. What’s more, you can plan your day while you’re eating! Hanende has an affiliated tour boat company which can take you out on the blue waters of the Mediterranean. There’s definitely no nicer way to relax than the combination of great organic food followed by an outing on the sea!
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Turkish Language Courses If you’re planning on staying in the country for a while, a Turkish course is a great investment. Learn how to chat with the locals! Turkish isn’t closely related to Romance or Germanic languages, so you won’t get a lot of freebies unless you speak Persian or Arabic, and the structure might seem strange to you at first. Fortunately, Turkish is very logical and you don’t have to learn a new alphabet. If you have a few weeks to spare in İstanbul, check out the best-of-the-best language schools listed below and take some lessons which will have you reading and speaking conversational Turkish in no time!
DİLMER Language Teaching Center DİLMER is arguably the most famous of the İstanbul-based language schools and offers both four-week (intensive) and eight-week courses for a wide variety of levels.
TÖMER Associated with Ankara University, TÖMER gives Turkish courses which generally last three weeks. They have branches across the country- not just in İstanbul- so you can learn some Turkish no matter where you end up.
İnönü Cad. Prof. Tarık Zafer Tunaya Sok. No: 16 +90 212 292 96 96 dilmer@dilmer.com www.dilmer.com
Katıp Çelebi Mah. Tel Sok. No: 47 (Taksim) +90 212 249 16 48-49 istanbul@tomer.ankara.edu.tr www.tomer.ankara.edu.tr
Concept Languages Concept Languages really puts a personal touch on your Turkish learning. They have small class sizes and will go over and beyond to make sure that you’re getting everything you want out of their courses. You can even get private tutoring through Concept.
Seher Yıldızı Sok. No: 23 / 8 (Etiler) +90 212 351 18 40 www.conceptlanguages.com
EFINST Turkish Center EFİNST offers three different types of classes for foreign students. Their regular courses run from September through June and take place in a classroom setting; alternatively, you can opt for the intensive course or get one-onone tutoring with a one of their professional instructors on a schedule that works for you.
Aydın Sok. F Blok No: 12 (Levent) +90 212 282 90 64 cunlu@turkishlesson.com www.turkishlesson.com
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Pamukkale Used as a spa since antiquity, Pamukkale is one of the country’s most famous destinations for tourists and Turks alike. Pamukkale has been famous for its natural spa since at least the second century BC, when it was a thriving GrecoRoman locality believed to heal bathers of a wide variety of ills, including rheumatism, heart, stomach, and skin diseases, and even high blood pressure. The hot waters flow from the white geological formations, known as travertines, which give the town its name (Pamukkale means “cotton castle” in Turkish). While you’re in the region, also check out the ancient city of Hierapolis (founded, as the name suggests, by the Greeks). Traditionally the jumping-off point for visitors to the hot springs, Hierapolis houses a number of impressive relics from its early days. You’ll most likely pass through the larger nearby city of Denizli before continuing on to Pamukkale and Hierapolis, as the majority of buses and trains stop here. If you’re coming in by air, the closest airport is also in Denizli and is an hour distant.
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+90 533 729 93 02 info@hoteldortmevsim.com www.hoteldortmevsim.com want to take advantage of the AC and get competitive with your fellow backpackers. One of the coolest things about this bright and friendly hotel is their pet policy- you can bring along your animal companions at no extra cost!
Artemis Yörük Hotel
With both dorms and private rooms available, there’s something for everyone here. Enjoy the huge buffet breakfast served every morning and included in the price of your room, go for a swim in the pool, or take in the view of the travertines... you’ll find a ISCOU pleasant and welcoming atmosphere at
Pamukkale Kasabası Atatürk Cad. No. 48 / A +90 258 272 26 74 info@artemisyorukhotel.com www.artemisyorukhotel.com
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Located in an eye-catching orange building, Hotel Dört Mevsim offers affordable accommodation ranging all over the board from private rooms to dorms and even camping facilities. There’s plenty to do on the grounds for travelers of every persuasion- you can order a beer at the bar, go swimming in the outdoor pool, or make plans for your next stop with the help of the travel desk. There’s even a games room if you
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this family-run pension, and all the help you need with further bookings.
Mustafa Pension
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The closest accommodation to the Hierapolis entrance gate, Mustafa Pension could not be more conveniently located. As you would expect at a hostel close to one of the country’s foremost symbols of relaxation, this is a calm and laid-back kind of place where you can chill out and have a tea or coffee (free all day, including apple ISCOU tea!) and share a water pipe with friends if the mood strikes you.
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Kale Mah. Atatürk Sk. No. 22 +90 258 272 22 40 info@mustafahostel.com www.mustafahostel.com The staff is full of interesting history and travelers’ tales which will spark your inspiration for the next leg of your journey. Don’t hesitate to ask them any questions you may have! Dorms and private rooms are available.
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Datça Datça is located halfway out on a narrow peninsula of the same name, which itself sticks out from the mainland halfway between İzmir and Antalya. The eastern half of the peninsula is fertile in sections, while the western end, more mountainous and sparsely inhabited, may once have been the site of the ancient settlement of Knidos.
of sampling the local cuisine, particularly a certain dessert made from almonds and dried figs. Most travelers arrive via Marmaris, which lies some 75 kilometers to the east and makes a convenient transfer point for those coming by bus.
Interestingly, both Datça itself and the numerous smaller villages around it are built some distance from the water, a practice stemming from the inhabitants’ fear of pirate attacks throughout antiquity and continuing through the end of the Ottoman Empire. However, the coast holds significant interest for visitors in the form of pretty coves and small bays which can be found along its length. Travelers should also make a point
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Ilıca Camping Ilıca Camping is ideal for anyone keen on enjoying the summer sunshine which is so abundant in Datça. If you’d rather not be cooped up in a hotel room, why not save some money and spend your time camping or RVing instead? Ilıca has the best location around, just on the seafront, and with tons of facilities set up just so you can get the most out of it.
İskele Mah. Taşlık Plajı +90 252 712 34 00 ilicacamping@hotmail.com www.ilicacamping.com Open until October 29 you can swim, sunbathe, or head out on a tour boat (you can arrange this through the camp’s managers). Definitely don’t miss the restaurant, either- they have all kinds of seafood and grills, with a barbecue which is lit, without fail, every night.
Only five minutes from the city center, Ilıca feels like it’s a world away. Choose from a camping spot, an RV park, or one of nine bungalows; all are surrounded by eucalyptus trees and convenient to the shore, where
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Tunç Pansiyon A family-run business since 1989, Tunç Pansiyon is backed with decades of knowledge about how to make travelers feel at home. Cleanliness is a number one priority, for one thing, so if you’ve had bad luck on the road with less-than-spotless hostels, Tunç Pansiyon is all set to turn that run around.
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Next to Ziraat Bankası +90 252 712 30 36 tuncpension@yahoo.com www.tuncpansiyon.com
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Dalyan Beautiful Dalyan is located in an environmentally protected area and is home to many species of wildlife which flourish in the mixed salt and fresh waters of the wetlands. It’s a bird-watcher’s paradise, but there’s also a ton for history buffs to sink their teeth into here. Highlights of the town include the turtle beach nearby and the magnificent rock tombs. Dalyan is the site of the ancient city of Caunos, which was settled around 200 AD; a number of the ruins are well-preserved and can be reached by boat from the town proper. Look out for the acropolis, the Byzantine basilica, and the Roman baths in particular, although the sites here are numerous and you can lose yourself in the cobbled streets leading between walls and temples.
Even more locally famous, however, is İztuzu Beach. Home to many loggerhead turtles who crawl up on the shore every June and July to lay their eggs, İztuzu is a well-known tourist destination for wildlife lovers. Of course, it’s crucial to avoid disturbing the turtles; make sure to abide by all posted signs and warnings, especially between May and October, when the entire area lies under environmental protection for the sake of the loggerheads. The beach lies southwest of the mouth of the Dalyan Çayı, the river which connects the Köyceğiz Lake with the sea. To reach Dalyan, hop on a dolmuş from Fethiye or Marmaris. Alternately, you can fly into Dalaman Airport, which is roughly 40 minutes away from the town. Taxis and public transport are both available.
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Dalyan Bahaus Hostel Resort
In the shade of the mountains and İztuzu Yolu No. 25 Ortaca ringed by orchards of pomegranate, +90 252 284 50 50 orange, and lemon, Bahaus Hostel bahausdalyan@yahoo.com is a beautiful and sprawling resort www.bahausguesthousedalyanresort.com where you can find a note of harmony near the sea. Bahaus is a The outdoor facilities are, if anything, even well-known and much-respected better. Two pool tables, a swimming pool, franchise in Turkey, and travelers throughout two jacuzzis, a huge bar, ping-pong tables... the country know that the you’ll never be bored staying at Bahaus. brand stands for safety, And that’s only a partial list- if none of those fun, and excitement. options strike your fancy, maybe you’d prefer a game of foosball or backgammon? A bike Tons of accommodation trip? Some exercise at the gym? Smoking a options are available water pipe? Pretty much anything you can for any style and any think of is right here. budget. There are single, double, triple,
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and quadruple rooms as well as dorms and camping facilities. The rooms come with some of the most extensive facilities in Turkey, including hairdryers, LCD TVs, AC, mini-fridges, and pool towels. The wi-fi signal is strong throughout the whole area, and you can connect from anywhere.
Of course, the food isn’t neglected! Bahaus uses organic products for most of their dishes- a ton of ingredients come from the on-site farm. Breakfast is included in the price of your room, and you can get lunch and dinner (as well as snacks) throughout the day.
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Dalyan Kaunos Tours Kaunos Tours was opened in 1993 as a rental company for various types of transportation around the Dalyan area, and has since expanded to include all kinds of tours and activities. Of course, you can still rent cars from Kaunos (as well as bicycles and motorbikes, if that’s more your style), but don’t settle on something too quickly, because you might be pleasantly surprised by the sheer vastness of the spectrum of activities they can help you out with. Before you make your decision, there’s something you should know about Kaunos, and that’s the fact that they’re a long way from your typical tour company. The staff here are hired particularly for their knowledge of and experience in the region, and they are carefully trained to be able to answer any question you may have. They want you to come away from your experience with them not only remembering your time with Kaunos as the best aspect of your stay in Dalyan, but also with a deeper understanding of the culture and traditions underlying it all. The very first detailed map of the Dalyan area came about as a direct result of Kaunos’s exploratory mountain bike tours in 1995, so you know they’re good.
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Anyway, down to business. All Kaunos tours come with free transfer from your hostel or hotel, so no worries about missing the boat (so to speak). Cruises, trekking, and sea kayaking are among your options here, and of course they still specialize in mountain biking tours if you’re feeling the need to get your adrenaline pumping. Or maybe Jeep safaris or canyoning are more up your alley? Kaunos can also arrange airport transfers for those of you flying into Dalaman Airport. Transfer directly to their office and then keep your independence from public transport by renting a car to explore the area!
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Sarısu Sok. Binlik Pasajı No. 1/A +90 252 284 28 16 bookings@kaunostours.com www.kaunostours.com
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Köyceğiz Tango Hostel Originally settled in 3400 BC, Köyceğiz has a long and rich history during which, like most towns in Turkey, it changed hands numerous times. Nearby historical sites, including the impressive rock tombs, represent the influence of many civilizations.
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Ali İhsan Kalmaz Cad. +90 252 262 25 01 tangopension@tangopension.com www.tangohostel.com home. Get to know the place right away as you enjoy your free coffee or tea as soon as you walk in the door!
Köyceğiz is a quiet haven, with a much more traditional feel than the larger cities which surround it. Check out the market held every Monday, mainly frequented by locals although some travelers show up to do some shopping the old-fashioned way as well. You should really stay a few nights to properly appreciate the tranquility of Köyceğiz, and there’s no better place to do it than at Tango Pension. This laid-back little place has singles, doubles, and triples, all with their own balconies from which you can admire great views of the mountains and the lake. If you’d rather socialize while you watch the sunset, head up to the rooftop balcony and have a chat with your hosts or your fellow travelers over a delicious home-cooked meal in the traditional Turkish style. Tango offers laundry service, Internet facilities, and the opportunity to make international phone calls to your friends back
Sami and Şahin, the two brothers who jointly run Tango, are friendly as they come and will do everything under the sun to make sure your stay is filled with fun and good vibes. They know all the best spots in town and can fix you up with a huge range of activities. You might be surprised at the things they can organize for you, actually- everything from moonlight boat rides to mudbaths, campfire nights, crabbing, trekking, canyoning, sojourns to Turtle Beach... the list goes on.
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Lycian Way Turkey’s southern Mediterranean coast is dotted with ancient ruins and sleepy seaside towns, many of which are reachable by the standard methods of dolmuş and bus transport. But for anybody seeking a more personal and intense encounter with all that the region has to offer, the 500-odd kilometer Lycian Way presents the ideal experience for taking it all in. Stretching from Fethiye to Antalya, the Lycian Way (Likya Yolu in Turkish) is a winding and mountainous walking path primarily following the coastline. Kate Clow, who spearheaded the project to construct the trail in the late 1990s, intentionally designed the route to hit as many major archaeological sites as possible. Yet the real allure of the trek is found in the less-known and less-appreciated elements along the way: chatting with villagers while goats mill around unchecked, listening to the sounds of nature while gazing down into a lush and untouched valley, coming across a thousand year old Lycian tomb covered in moss. If you don’t have the time or energy to tackle the entire route, you can pick and choose smaller sections to walk and pick up the trail from other towns along the way. If you plan to attempt the full hike, allow a month to 45 days and be sure to pick up Kate Clow’s original and highly detailed guide entitled, unsurprisingly, The Lycian Way. The entire path is waymarked with distinctive red and white markers found on rocks and trees, but at times they can be hard to spot and you should stay safe by never taking shortcuts or deviating from the path if possible. Anybody with a penchant for trekking and a love of history should make the Lycian Way (or at least parts of it!) a priority in a visit to the southern coast. Wandering the trail is the surest way of feeling instantly miles away from the rush and frenzy of İstanbul or Antalya and experiencing first-hand the slow pace and irresistible allure of rural Turkey.
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Fethiye & Around The mid-size town of Fethiye is easy to reach from anywhere in Turkey, with a busy otogar and frequent connections from the hour-distant Dalaman airport. Whether you’re out to hike the Lycian Way, indulge in some adrenaline-pumping extreme sports, or simply relax on southern Turkey’s sandy beaches, you’re likely to pass through Fethiye at some point. The town’s streets are crowded with international visitors, particularly during the high season, but for good reason; it makes an ideal starting point for visiting local Lycian ruins, soaking up sun, and getting active in the thriving paragliding or sea canoeing scenes. Go hunting for the sarcophagii which can be found around in several streets around town and take a day-trip to the cave tombs just outside of southern Fethiye. And if you’re ready to party at the end of a busy day, you’ll feel right at home here, where locals and travelers alike meet in pulsing discos and dance until the early hours of the morning.
Yıldırım Guest House
1. Karagozler Fevzi Çakmak Cad. No. 21 +90 252 614 46 27 info@yildirimguesthouse.com www.yildirimguesthouse.com to stay inside all day and relax on the couch! The cozy open-air reception and common area includes a TV and a bookshelf full of travel literature about Turkey- don’t hesitate to check out their collection or to ask the staff for their own recommendations. They can also help you to book tours or ring ahead to your next port of call.
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Conveniently located in the center of town, Yıldırım Guest House is a simple and clean home base for your explorations of Fethiye. Both privates and dorm rooms are on offer, all of which are air conditioned and wellmaintained, with hot showers. Free tea and coffee all day, as well as the full Turkish breakfast (included in the price of your room) mean that the biggest danger here is wanting
A favorite Fethiye backpacker hangout, V-GO Hostel is located right on the seafront. Featuring a large open-air terrace and a plethora of comfortable, colorful chairs, you’re sure to spend hours chilling out here with your travel buddies. The view from the second-floor terrace is unmissable.
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V-GO offers free tea, coffee, and Tang all day long- take your drink to the swimming pool or challenge your mates to a game of foosball. Maybe you’d like to relax in the adjoining spa for a while or see what’s on offer at the travel desk. On the other hand, if it’s partying you’re after, V-GO has you covered there too; grab a drink
at the cafe on the terrace for a lively happy hour, or just head downstairs after midnight to the newly-opened dance bar (but don’t worry if you have an early bus to catch, because the bar’s walls are all soundproof ). The in-house restaurant serves up breakfast and dinner, and will be happy to do lunch on request. Take note, vegetarians: meat-free options are always available here!
V-Go Travel Associated with the hostel of the same name, V-GO Travel can assist you with just about any kind of activity you’re after. Their services range all over the board from cruises to Olympos, ferries to the Greek island of Rhodes, paragliding, diving, Jeep safaris, mudbaths, and horse-riding in Kayaköy. They’ll also be happy to hook you ISCOU up with a hamam experience, car rentals, or advice about the area based on years of experience.
2. Karagozler, Fevzi Cakmak Cad. No. 109 +90 252 612 21 13 nicolayacht@hotmail.com www.bluecruisesturkey.com
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Pastoral Valley Eco Farm Pastoral Valley EcoFarm, several kilometers outside of Fethiye proper, is definitely not your typical camping or pension experience. Devoted to a relaxed, communal, and natural lifestyle, Pastoral Valley is more of a second home than the type of accommodation you’re probably used to on the road. Most people who stay at the ecofarm live there for an extended period of time- a few weeks to a few months, in the majority of cases- and typically volunteer their time to help out with cooking or other daily chores. There’s plenty to do on this 42,000 square meter plot of fertile fields and orchards, but of course there’s plenty of time for relaxation, too! You can spend your afternoons lounging in one of the many gazebos around the central kitchen or splashing in the river which constitutes one of the borders of the farm’s land.
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Yanıklar Köyü, Fethiye +90 252 633 66 27 info@pastoralvadi.com www.pastoralvalley.com and communal enjoyment of everyone’s labor, everything grown or produced on the farm is free- this includes coffee, tea, oranges and lemons, and fresh Mediterranean food. Of course, you’re welcome to purchase and bring along anything else you like from local markets. Pastoral Valley is an all-natural collective and therefore makes every effort to preserve ecological values in every aspect of life. All the food is organic and home-made and the swimming pool is cleaned using an ingenious filtration system rather than with harmful chemicals. You’ll see the environmental focus everywhere at the ecofarm, including the activities you’ll find on offer. Spend your downtime horseback riding through the stunning valley, participating in one of the numerous handicrafts workshops on offer, taking yoga classes, or going on a nature trek.
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Ölüdeniz
Lycian Way
Ölüdeniz Ölüdeniz (meaning dead sea in Turkish, so-called for the stillness of the waters at its much-photographed Blue Lagoon), is a busy tourist town to the southeast of Fethiye and easily reachable by dolmuş. While its neighbors Faralya and Kabak will be more up your alley if you’re looking to ‘get away from it all’, Ölüdeniz is great for paragliding or sailing over the Mediterranean- or even just stocking up on supplies before you make your way to rougher territory.
Sugar Beach Club Looking for a little place to unwind? Ready to put your feet up for a day or two and chill out? Sugar Beach is where you want to be. Right on a sunny, sandy beach, the blue waters of the Mediterranean are your playground. After you’ve gone for a morning swim, sprawl out on a sunbed and keep an eye out for the resident loggerhead turtles which can sometimes be spotted on the shore. If you’re in a sporty mood, get your basketball on or head to the volleyball court. ISCOU
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If you want to stay overnight, choose from a bungalow, a caravan parking spot (for those of you on a roadtrip), or a tent pitch. Housekeeping and laundry service are available so you can lay back and enjoy yourself- no more worrying about the stink rising from those dirty socks in your backpack.
for bungalows
Ölüdeniz Cad. No. 20 +90 252 617 00 48 info@thesugarbeachclub.com www.thesugarbeachclub.com
Sugar Beach also features a great kitchen and restaurant where you can dine on Mediterranean cuisine or hit up Happy Hour (between 3 pm and 7 pm) for some creative cocktails. If you’re after something simpler, you can just head to the minimart right onsite and pick up a few supplies you forgot to buy in Ölüdeniz.
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Escape Adventures Looking for an amazing extreme sports experience in Ölüdeniz? Look no further. The staff members at Escape Adventures know and love their profession, and they make safety their number ISCOU one priority.
Lykia World +90 252 617 02 83 info@escape.com.tr www.escape.com.tr
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It’s normal to be nervous while mentally preparing yourself to go paragliding- floating thousands of feet above the ground? Yeah, that can be scary. Not to fear, though. The instructors at Escape Adventures are selected with the utmost care and are required to have five years of experience and 2,000 flight hours under their belts before signing on. Full insurance for every passenger is a company policy- that includes before, during, and after your flight. So where do you paraglide from? Babadağ (Father Mountain in English), which is the highest altitude for tandem paragliding
flights... in the world. Escape Adventures knows that they have a stellar reputation to uphold, and they work hard to keep their customers happy. They’ll gladly tailor the experience to your preferences, and canfor example- book you in for a morning or evening flight for better pictures. If you’re here on honeymoon, they can even give you cake and champagne midflight! Escape Adventures doesn’t only operate in the air, though. Check out their variety of water sports, including power boating, jet skis, water skis, parasailing, and wakeboarding.
Sky Sports Smack in the center of Ölüdeniz, Sky Sports Paragliding offers a convenient alternative for your flying experience. They’ll brief you on everything you need to know pre-trip, and their knowledgeable instructors can answer any questions you have about the “how” or the “what” of paragliding. Four flights run daily, but as with any paragliding company, definitely don’t book it for the last day of
Çarşı Cad. Tonoz Otel Altı +90 252 617 05 11 info@skysports-turkey.com www.skysports-turkey.com
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your trip, as it’s highly 10% discount COUNT weather-dependent and on photos you don’t want to be left and video flightless if it’s raining!
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Kayaköy
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Kayaköy When you think of ghost towns, you might be picturing empty saloons in the American Wild West. Kayaköy is every bit as dramatic and imposing as anything you can conjure up, and looms over the modern village below with a haunting grandeur. Kayaköy (previously known as Levissi) was a Greek town until 1923, when a population exchange between Greece and Turkey sent its inhabitants westward. The Greek Macedonian Muslims who were settled in their place didn’t stay for long; theories abound as to why (some a bit on the tin-foil-hat side, such as the one suggesting that the previous population poisoned the town’s water supply upon departing), but the most likely explanation is that the Macedonians were simply unused to such rough land and moved on when they found it difficult to cultivate. Years of sitting empty lend the collapsing buildings an air of melancholy poetry, helped along by the 1957 earthquake which further leveled the town. Now it sits deserted and crumbling... and a little bit creepy. Travelers with a taste for the bizarre and surprising can spend hours exploring the site to their hearts’ content. Make sure to visit the two churches and the village fountain; also take in the Mediterranean view from the chapel at Kayaköy’s highest point. The entire area of the town has been declared a museum by the Turkish state. As such, an entrance fee is charged during peak hours; if you have an open schedule and wish to avoid this, simply show up in the early morning or the evening and have the place to yourself... for free. A small modern town has been built at the foot of the hills, packed full of restaurants and wine houses despite its diminutive size. To reach Kayaköy, just hop on a dolmuş from Fethiye or Ölü Deniz. Alternatively, you can make the 8-kilometer hike from Fethiye and arrive on foot.
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Kaya Sanat Kampı Kaya Sanat Kampı (in English, Kaya Art Camp) is an alternative traveler’s paradise. Just down the road from unmissable Kayaköy, the Art Camp is a maze of gazebos, greenery, and ISCOU sculptures peeking out from flower bushes and adorning fountains.
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+90 533 763 62 73 kayaartcamp@gmail.com www.sanatkampi.com
The camp offers weekly workshops, and guests generally stay for at least one of them; as such, it’s less of a crash-for-the-night hostel setting and more of a place to unpack for a bit, settle in, get to know the artsy owners, and make friends from all over the world. Check out their schedule of workshops in advance and find one which interests you- typical examples include rhythm drumming, salsa dancing, and ceramics. The workshops appeal to beginners as well as advanced craftsmen. Don’t worry if you don’t have experience- just bring your enthusiasm! There’s something for everyone in a creative state of mind, so have a wander when you arrive and take a gander at the theater, the mini climbing wall, and the relics of past workshops which adorn the many winding paths through the camp. It would be difficult not to be inspired at Kaya.
Three meals a day are served at the camp, all made from organic produce. Most of it is grown on-site, and agriculture enthusiasts can take a peek out back toward the garden. If you’re arriving on a Sunday, two free shuttles are provided from Fethiye. Otherwise, you’ll find it straightforward to get on the dolmuş and make your own way there. Get ready for the artistic experience of a lifetime, shared with like-minded people and all taking place in one of the most stimulating settings anywhere!
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C from After the morning workshop sessions, you Fethiye have time to relax. Hang out with fellow artisans and travelers or go for a stroll through town. If you’re full of energy, take advantage of the bikes or the volleyball court offered by the camp, or head out to one of the local bars.
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The laid-back and welcoming Village Garden Pension, close to the main street of modern Kayaköy, is a warm haven for travelers trying to relax and recover from a hectic time in Fethiye or Ölüdeniz. Family-owned and operated, “cozy” and “comfortable” are both keywords here. The homely style and smiley owners just may make you feel that you’re stepping back in time to a less stressful era when people would drop by their neighbor’s house for a cup of sugar.
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Kınalı Mah. Gemiler Yolu +90 533 767 28 35 temelkiryaman@hotmail.com www.villagegardenturkey.com area (not to mention the magnificent views ubiquitous in this part of Turkey!) and sip some çay while you practice your Turkish with the locals wandering in and out to say hello to the pension’s managers. There’s a blazing fireplace in the winter, so don’t hesitate to book a stay even in the off season!
Levissi Garden Restaurant & Wine House
The restaurant has a wide selection of delicious local food- ask the staff for help
+90 533 247 59 34 info@levissigarden.com www.levissigarden.com choosing the right wine for your food, if you’re so inclined. Levissi Wine House is pure class and a visit here is ISCOU the perfect way to feel as though you’re returning to civilization after a long day exploring the ruined city.
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Stylish Levissi Wine House occupies a 400-year old stone building on the main corner of modern Kayaköy village. It would be difficult to describe the place without superlatives- just for one, it boasts the largest vineyards in southwestern Turkey, and an absolutely stunning collection of fine wines, the majority of them local. Don’t be in a big hurry to choose, though; they offer free wine tasting, so feel free to have a sample or three before making your final choice.
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Tiny Faralya is just a dot on the map, but nature lovers will find its scenic beauty nothing short of enchanting. You can hike through the mountains from Ovacık some 16 km north or simply take a dolmuş from Ölüdeniz- although the hairpin turns all along the cliffside coastal road may leave you just as breathless as if you’d opted for the trek! Save some energy to navigate the steep path down to Butterfly Valley, whose namesakes flutter in abundance around the rocks. The roundtrip takes around 45 minutes, but don’t rush- the path can be dangerous, especially when wet.
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George House
a requirement; their delicious (and included in the price!) breakfasts and dinners are carb-laden to pump you up for another day of trekking, or load up your plate with fresh and tasty vegetables. They’ll do lunch too, if you just can’t get enough- ask for a picnic lunch to take with you on a trek up the road or down to the valley, and they’ll pack it up for you. Relax in the common room, strewn with comfy pillows, or take a good book from their shelves down to the swimming pool and follow up a cool-down swim with a chapter or two. Airport transfers can be arranged from Dalaman if you’re in a hurry to get here and want to skip the hike.
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There’s an option for everyone at George House, and you can choose from bungalows, tree houses, camping, or larger ensuite rooms according to your budget and your preferences. If you’ve hiked from Fethiye or Ölüdeniz, staying at George House is almost
Tel: +90 252 642 11 02 faralya17@hotmail.com www.georgehousefaralya.com
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The first thing you’ll notice about George House is the stunning view. Right smack at the top of the path down to Butterfly Valley, you can gaze down at the sea far below or dizzy yourself staring up at the stars. Breezes and, of course, butterflies are in abundance here, without a mosquito to be found in high season!
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Kabak The dolmuş from Ölüdeniz or Fethiye will drop you off in Kabak village, from which point it’s up to you to follow the red-and-white Lycian Way markers down into the spectacular valley below. If you like bonfires, hammocks, flowers, and impossibly blue skies, you’ll feel right at home here. Spend your days chilling out with hikers and some of the most laid-back folks to be found anywhere, and you’ll soon see why many people who stop by for a night end up still sunning themselves on Kabak’s beach three weeks later. Make sure to walk or swim out to the cave a short way out from the shore.
Olive Garden Olive Garden’s motto is “our heart, your home”, and the outgoing managers will make certain that your stay lives up to these words. It’s built in the village proper at the top of the hill, so staying at Olive Garden will spare you the walk down (and more exhaustingly, up) the steep trails to the valley, and even better, the views from the top are completely unbeatable. You can wile away an entire day watching gulls soaring overhead or allowing yourself to be mesmerized by the impossibly blue waters of the sea. Tranquility is a way of life here.
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Tel: +90 252 642 10 83 info@olivegardenkabak.com www.olivegardenkabak.com
The environmentally-friendly bungalows are clean and comfortable, sleeping two people each. Hot water is available all the time, so wash off the grime with a shower and then head out to the terrace lounge where you can take in the panorama at sunset.
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Olive Garden has a reputation for providing, bar none, the best food for miles around. Their local and professional chef’s passion for cooking is obvious in his traditional Turkish dishes; Fatih’s name is a byword for deliciousness in these parts. In fact, Turks as well as travelers come from far and wide for a taste of his specialties. The scents of spices and vegetables in the air will keep your mouth watering all day.
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If you’re arriving from Dalaman, take the dolmuş to Kabak village and you’ll find signs directing you toward the (very) brief path to Olive Garden from the center.
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Reflections Camping The fourth camp established in Kabak and still a favorite with seasonal travelers, Reflections is a wonderfully laid-back and relaxed niche in the sunlit and remotefeeling forest of the valley. Its emphasis on environmentally-friendly practices will win over your ecological sympathies in a hurry. The dedication to green living is more than skin deep, and Reflections is one of the very few camps in Kabak which sort their trash for recycling.
+90 252 642 10 20 costabrava2000@hotmail.com www.reflectionscamps.com amazing fireplace, the mosaics, and the wood sculptures found in nooks and crannies all around you. If you’re ready to get your tan on, head to the beach- it’s less than a ten-minute walk down to the cove.
You’ll feel like a druid or an artist in Reflections’ natural bungalows and treehouses, surrounded by crafts lovingly created by the chilled-out staff and past generations of travelers. Check out the
Take the opportunity to solicit local information from the staff- great English is spoken here!
Gemile Camping Gemile Camping is an idyllic hippie hangout which will make you feel like you’ve taken a time machine back to the sixties. It’s a shoesoptional, bonfires-at-night, laze-in-hammocks type of place, so if you’re ready to mix hardcore partying with hardcore relaxation, make Gemile your first port of call in Kabak. There’s an Indian shop on-site which is popular with not only guests staying at Gemile but also travelers sleeping in other camps around the valley- here you can find all the breezy clothes and colorful jewelry you want. Make sure to pick up something appropriate for tree-climbing, as
+90 252 642 10 16 campgemile@gmail.com www.gemilecamping.com it’s a specialty here and they have a ton of awesome trees with low branches to get you going.
Gemile is just a short stroll away from the beach, so if you can tear yourself away from the world music and chill vibes at the bar, make your way down to the waterfront for a swim!
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Xanthos - Letoon
Lycian Way
Xanthos Letoon’s sister-site and administrative capital, as well as Lycia’s largest city, the ruins at Xanthos are a must-see. The phrase ‘fiercely independent’ gets thrown around a lot with regard to Mediterranean city-states, but the first-century BC inhabitants of Xanthos take the cake. Several centuries after a near-suicidal attempt to hold off Persian forces, its inhabitants went a step further and actually committed mass suicide rather than see their city taken by the invading Romans. Today, Xanthos is a sprawling site boasting pillar tombs, basilicas, stone buildings, and ancient roads aplenty, and a French team of excavators is still hard at work unearthing more. An entrance fee is charged for a stroll around the site’s principal ruins, but you can explore the current excavation area for free. Xanthos can be reached via the well-signposted road from nearby Kınık.
Letoon Letoon, a joint UNESCO World Heritage Site with Xanthos, is perhaps the most romantic of the surviving Lycian sites. Temples devoted to the three most central deities in the Lycian religion (Leto, from whom the complex owes its name, and her children Apollo and Artemis), rise eerily from green and often flooded fields, deserted for 1400 years. Yet cult goddess-worship is just one side to Letoon’s significance. Also discovered at the site was the Trilingual Stele, akin to the Rosetta Stone, which contributed to the decipherment of the Lycian language. Letoon lies approximately 5 km from the village of Kınık and can easily be reached on an afternoon jaunt from Fethiye or Kaş. Detailed maps of the area are sold at the ticket booth, and may be worth picking up if you plan to visit more out-of-the-way ruins.
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Pınara
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Pınara Pınara holds the intriguing distinction of being one of the least-visited yet most impressive archaeological sites along Turkey’s southern coast. Six kilometers from the main road, two of which snake precariously up a dirt track from the village of Minare, you’ll find yourself facing an immense cliffside punctuated by ‘honeycomb’ tombs cut into the rock and a well-preserved amphitheater ringed by wildflowers. Visitors are free to wander as they wish and discover for themselves the numerous graves and temples scattered between the mountain and the valley. The sheer scope of the site is a clue to its historical importance; Pınara was one of the six largest Lycian cities until it was deserted in the 9th century AD. Bring your camera for some spectacular panoramas taking in the architecture and the view!
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Özlen Restaurant & Pension
Most travelers visiting Letoön and Xanthos move on to Kaş to crash for the night, but if you’re keen to be one of the few staying put a bit farther from the crowds, stop by Özlen Pension in small and highly authentic village of Karadere. The family-run restaurant features organic food, much of which is grown on-site (ask for a ISCOU quick tour of their impressive tomato and cucumber greenhouses!). Take a walk to the beach for a splash or just
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Visitors to Patara are usually after two things: ruins and beaches. Don’t be put off by its small size, because Patara has both in abundance. Another of ancient Lycia’s six largest cities, along with Xanthos and Pınara, it was the civilization’s primary sea port; this strategic importance led to its early annexation by Roman forces. In slightly more recent history, Patara gained recognition for being the birthplace of Nicholas of Myra (better known as Santa Claus) around 300 AD, although the man in red spent most of his life in nearby Demre. Take a look at the ancient theater and temple just outside the city, and then go for a stroll on the beach- unless you’re bursting with energy, though, don’t try to make it all the way to the end. At 18 uninterrupted kilometers, this is one of the longest beaches in the world!
Akay Pension
Akay Pension is erupting with coloreverything from the furnishings to the flowers adoring the terrace and dining area will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a bright dream world.
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Twelve rooms are available, each of which features a balcony and a private bathroom. The facilities are all cozy and tidy, but the real highlight of the place is the friendly family who owns and runs it. Ayşe is in charge of the cooking, and can prepare all kinds of tasty Turkish cuisine to your personal preferences. Even better, breakfast is available all day long,
Merkez Patara +90 242 843 50 55 info@pataraakaypension.com www.pataraakaypension.com a rarity in Turkey! That combined with the tea, apple tea, and coffee which are all free from morning to night will keep you planted on the terrace for long hours, sipping and snacking to your heart’s content. If you’re up for a bit of partying and want to head out to check out the local nightlife, don’t worry: reception is 24 hours and there’s no lockout here.
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Kaş The mid-sized town of Kaş makes a perfect base for travelers looking to explore the treasures of Mediterranean Turkey without succumbing to the tourist frenzy of the larger cities closer to the region’s airports. It’s surging with character and everything from budget options to luxury shopping are on offer here. Most everything is within walking distance, so take an afternoon or- why not?- a full week and investigate the shops and the seaside on foot. If you’re looking for some authentic Turkish souvenirs such as jewelry or handmade carpets, Kaş is definitely the right place to be.
Chez Evy Ranked consistently as one of the best places to go in Kaş, Chez Evy is the perfect place to splash out on some truly world-class French cuisine. You’ll be tempted to try everything on the beautiful hand-drawn menus, but rest assured: no matter what you settle on, you won’t be disappointed with either the fantastic and filling food or the understated, classy mood of the place. If you’re not hungry enough to justify a full meal, take up a seat at
Terzi Sokak No. 4 +90 242 836 12 53
the bar downstairs which serves all sorts of alcohol, including a range of French aperitifs. Evy herself speaks English and French, while the staff can serve you in Turkish if you prefer.
Kervan Handmade Carpets & Kilims This colorful shop, located right next to the harbor and boasting a shady, tree-lined outdoor show area, is a great option for travelers after the most classic of Turkish souvenirs: a carpet. All of their wares are locally handmade, and the options aren’t just limited to kilims. You can also find pillowcase covers and a variety of other textiles for sale here. Pick out your favorites from their extensive and eye-catching collections and
Liman Cad. No. 16 +90 242 836 20 40
then relax on one of the couches outside to have a chat with the owners and engage in the age-old custom of bargaining. Be careful, though- you just may end up staying for çay after çay and losing track of time!
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The sunny and colorcoordinated rooms each have their own flower-covered balcony and ensuite bathroom. Air conditioning is also available in all of them, so you can escape from the summer heat and enjoy a restful night’s sleep here. It’s
Koza Sok. No. 3/A +90 242 836 15 54 info@cemilpansiyon.com www.cemilpansiyon.com quite central and surrounded by numerous restaurants and cafes frequented by the locals- get your fix of Turkish lunches and dinners at any of them after enjoying a full breakfast on the open patio in the morning. Many guests find themselves returning to Cemil Pension year after year... you’ll probably be next!
Kaş Camping Perfect for hikers and budget travelers, Kaş Camping occupies a perfect location on the seafront, ideal for watching the sunset over the water or taking advantage of the many water sports arranged here. Pretty little bungalows are scattered throughout the gardens which decorate the camp, or you can choose to pitch a tent if camping is more your style. Furthermore, RV parking areas are available for those of you with your own transportation. Water and electricity are available throughout the camp, and the clean, well-maintained bathroom and shower facilities are definitely
Hastane Cad. No. 3 +90 242 836 10 50 info@kascamping.com www.kascamping.com a cut above what you might expect at a camping area. Check out the bar and restaurant right by the water and don’t forget to inquire about sundiving, Kaş Camping’s own style of diving!
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Definitely one of the friendliest places in Kaş, Cemil Pension is a family-run establishment which specializes in welcoming guests with a big smile. Heavy partiers may want to look elsewhere, but for travelers in search of a warm greeting and a warm bed, Cemil’s is where you want to be.
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Ateş Pansiyon The gregarious and helpful owners of Ateş Pension, located on a picturesque little back street, are always ready to help you practice your Turkish or give you directions around the city. They can help you to organize tours and activities in the area as well.
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The upstairs reception and common area is stocked with absolutely everything you could ask for in a hostel. One of the biggest book exchanges this side of Antalya offers novels, travel guides, and references books in a variety of languages, and the comfortable raised couch/chill-out spot has numerous nargiles (water pipes) at your disposal if you’re in the mood to partake in this most Turkish of smoking traditions.
Yeni Camii Cad. No. 3 +90 242 836 13 93 atespension@gmail.com www.atespension.com
Maybe you’d like to hang out in the sun and have a cup of coffee or a home-cooked meal? Ateş Pension has a great restaurant on the terrace and long tables where you can chat with your new and old friends- and you’ll get a free drink on arrival to make you feel right at home starting the minute you walk in the front door. They’ve got alcohol at the bar as well if you need a little something extra to help you relax and unwind.
They really have thought of everything a traveler could desire here- also included in the long list of services you’ll find here are international phone calls, laundry service, free tea anytime you like, Internet, and satellite TV. Ateş Pension is just minutes from the beach and a short stroll from the bustling center of town. The bus station isn’t much farther, but you can call ahead and they’ll come pick you up if you’ve got heavy bags and would prefer not to make the walk.
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Late Breaks Travel Late Breaks Travel is far from your typical “travel agent”. In fact, the management here goes out of their way to point out the policies which make their operation so different from a normal agency experience. Highlighting the contrast between an agency (standard fare) and a consultancy (Late Breaks), they take great pride in their comprehensive knowledge of the entire region.
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Late Breaks has a fantastic reputation to uphold and caters to the most demanding clients around, so they really know what they’re talking about. They’ll work
Hükümet Cad. No. 16 +90 242 836 1725 info@lbttravel.com www.seakayakturkey.com with you in an engaged and professional way to put together a customized itinerary which works for you. All kinds of services are at your fingertips, from car rental to airport transfers, cruises to tours, and even hotel and apartment bookings. See and do the best the region has to offer, and do it all with the knowledge that you’re basing it all on the recommendations of experts.
Xanthos Travel
feel like something a bit more relaxing, maybe sea kayaking on the Mediterranean will be up your alley. Or maybe you’ve gotten this far and decided you want to see a part of the Lycian ISCOU Way... Xanthos Travel can hook you up with a great walking tour along the most spectacular parts of the trail.
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Don’t miss their outdoor activities, either. If you’re ready to get a little adrenaline in your life, inquire about quad biking or canyoning- or maybe mountain biking is more your style. On the other hand, if you
İbrahim Serin Sok. No. 5 +90 242 836 32 92 info@xanthostravel.com www.xanthostravel.com
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Xanthos Travel offers a stunningly wide range of tours in Kaş and around- you name it, they probably have it. From the more general and popular options like Pamukkale and Ephesus tours to the more eclectic choices like Biblical tours and full-moon tours, Xanthos Travel is prepared to help you choose the adventure which is right for you. They can even do wedding and honeymoon packages!
Lycian Way
Kekova / Üçağız
Üçağız is a pretty little fishing village close to Kaş and can be reached by dolmuş or on one of the numerous boat tours offered from more popular destinations around the area. The name means “three mouths” in Turkish, referring to the trio of rivers which flow into the sea here. The Turkish government declared the town and surrounding region a protected area in early 1990. At the time, Üçağız was little-visited and even smaller than it was today, lacking even a passable road. While now, just over 20 years later, the road is definitely navigable by public transportation or in your own rented car, it’s still a 19-kilometer precariously snaking passage and you may be tempted to arrive the old-fashioned way: by boat. The government has since relaxed the restrictions placed on diving and building in the area, but some limitations remain and the town has fortunately not lost its quaint charm. Seafood lovers will want to unpack their things and settle down in Üçağız. As a fishing town, there are all the toothsome Mediterranean dishes you could hope for here and numerous fish restaurants near the port. One local favorite, Hassan Restaurant, is run by (who else?) Hassan himself, who speaks English and German. Frequented by sailors, this character-rich eatery features momentos left behind by previous travelers and serves up all kinds of seafood as well as a selection of grills. Keep an eye out for Hassan’s smiling face on posters around town! A stroll around the hilly but kaleidoscopic town center will reveal several Lycian tombs nestled in between the ubiquitous old stone houses. Cross your fingers that the current building restrictions will continue for at least several years to come... in the meantime, hurry here while the small-town vibe in Üçağız remains!
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Simena Most visitors to Kekova and Üçağız come with the primary goal of checking out the spectacular sunken city of Simena. Once a thriving Lycian city composed of an island and a mainland area (now known as Kaleköy, “castle village”), an earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused a large section of the residential area to slide underwater. Now, 19 centuries later, it remains partly submerged and can be explored from the surface or underwater; thanks to special protection from the Turkish government since 1990, it remains exceedingly well-preserved and has not been much damaged by the tourism boom of the last several decades. The above-water ruins are no less fascinating and include a necropolis and numerous sarcophagi, as well as Kaleköy’s namesake castle built by the Knights of Rhodes on the ancient foundations, but if you’ve made the trip out here it’s probably the underwater part you’re mainly looking to see. Check out the bizarre spectacle of staircases leading into the sea and windows half above, half below the waves.
Likya Pension This charming pension in central Üçağız is one of the few places to drop your bags in town if you’re planning to stay the night here. Covered in flowers and climbing vines, the two-story building in which you’ll be staying sometimes seems like it’s frequented more by locals than by international travelers. Indeed, there’s a homey feel here, and a stay at Likya Pension will have you imagining that you’ve lived in town all your life.
Üçağız Köyü +90 242 874 20 90 gokkaya07@mynet.net
about the free boat trip you’re entitled to for staying in Likya as well! After feeling the sea breezes in your hair and peering down into the blue waters of the Mediterranean for an afternoon, you may just decide to extend your stay.
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It’s nearly a one-stop shop for everything you might be after. The carpet shop next door is affiliated with the pension, so stop by if you want to pick up some textiles. Inquire
Lycian Way
Demre / Andriake
Demre Although he was born in the nearby village of Patara, Demre is where Santa Claus spent most of his life. Of course, the historical figure hadn’t yet taken on his modern form as a bearded, present-delivering man dressed all in red and white, but the legend of Saint Nicholas is still very much present in the town today. You’ll find the very cool 11-century Church of Saint Nicholas here, which used to house his bones, although they were carried off by thieves on the hunt for holy remains.
Andriake Famous as he may be, Demre isn’t all about the local saint. Crowning the hill about the town is an imposing ruin, Andriake, only recently discovered in 2009 and currently under excavation by students from Akdeniz (Mediterranean) University. The main building to be seen is a Roman synagogue dating back to about 500 AD, identified as such by the Latin inscriptions as well as a marble slab depicting a menorah and other symbols of Judaism. Besides that, the view is fantastic, particularly at dusk when you can watch the sun sinking over the port to the west. Wildflowers grow in abundance. You’ll most likely have the place to yourself, especially in early morning or late afternoon, as Andriake is not yet wellknown in guidebooks. Now is your chance to be one of the first visitors! The road to the site is poorly signposted, so you may have to ask around for directions; as a starting point, head toward the harbor from the center of town and look out for a left-hand turn taking you up the mountains. If you have your own transportation, you can park in an open gravel lot just before the yellow sign announcing the path to the ruins.
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Andriake Camping is perfect for travelers keen to be among the first to check out the Roman ruins visible up on the cliffside or for Lycian Way hikers searching for a spot to sling down their backpacks and sprawl out for a while.
Andriake Harbor +90 242 871 31 30 andriakecamping@gmail.com www.andriake.com
ISCOU Run for most of the year by an animated and outgoing Turkish and Swedish couple, you’ll find yourself deep in conversation before you’ve even sat down for a steaming cup of tea at the cafe picnic table. The managers are always ready to help you out with anything you need (such as directions to the elusive ruins!), and Swedish is of course spoken as well as English and Turkish. They can set you up with local activities including boat tours to Kekova, fishing, sea kayaking, and guided walking on the nearby Lycian Way, among a plethora of other options.
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You can choose your preferred style of rustic accommodation here; take your pick of a parking spot for your mobile home, a place to pitch your own tent, or large and dorm-like, jazzy, gypsy-style yurts provided by the camp.
Wireless internet is provided, alongside other helpful services such as laundry, electricity plugs to keep you wired in, board games, and a great book exchange in several languages. They can pick you up from Demre, Myra, or Zeytin if you’d prefer not to find your own way to the camp’s metaphorical doorstep: you’ll arrive in style and all set to enjoy the upbeat music coming from the restaurant’s speakers, along with a nap or a stroll along the harbor. And don’t worry, you won’t go hungry. You can get breakfast here in the mornings, a traditional Turkish spread made from all local ingredients; a barbecue dinner is prepared every evening with a varied and delicious selection of meat and vegetables.
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Olympos
Olympos You probably recognize the name Olympos from your school-days classes in Greek and Roman mythology: the home of the gods, it boasts a number of incredible ruins, as you may well expect. You won’t be disappointed by multifarious ancient sites to be found here, although those in search of solitude should take heed. Olympos is major stop on southern Turkey’s beaten tourist track, and you may be put off by the crowds, especially in the peak summer months from June to August. The easiest way of reaching the ruins is to follow the road past the pensions and guesthouses lining both sides; arriving at the end, you’ll see a path which continues on. This will bring you directly to the shared site of the beach and the the collapsing Roman buildings. An entrance fee is charged for both during the daytime, but if you’re on a tight budget, you can avoid the necessity of paying it by arriving during off-hours in the morning or the evening. Olympos is significant not only for its obvious Roman mythological connections but also as a chief city of the Lycian League; remnants of both can be found here. As the town of Olympos is under government protection which severely limits modern construction, facilities are limited. Fortunately, the owners of the many pensions here recognize this and will cater for most of your needs, including food and alcohol. There’s an ATM and a small supermarket, but plan ahead by bringing the majority of the supplies you’ll need from Kaş or Antalya. For a night out, head to Eski Yeni, a performance bar open until 3 am. They have tons of live acts, like the İstanbul-based group Luxus, as well as a shuttle to central Olympos. Check out their schedule at www.eskiyeni.com.tr. Take a bus from Antalya (some 70 kilometers to the north) or south from Kumluca or Kaş. The larger buses won’t take you all the way down to Olympos proper and will instead leave you roughly 10 kilometers outside of town at a junction featuring a great view and a cafe. Dolmuşes from this point are frequent, so you shouldn’t have any trouble completing the trip into the valley.
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Chimaera Named for the mythical fire-spitting monster (part-lion, part-goat, part-snake) of Roman folklore, “Chimaera” today refers to the eternal flames which burn from the mountain-side above Olympos. You’ll be amazed by the unique natural phenomenon of the fires- caused by methane gas leaking out from the earth, they will reignite themselves if you attempt to put one out. Appropriately, the patron god of the region was Hephaestus, the god of the forge. After making the 5-kilometer, 45-minute hike up the mountains from the drop-off point outside Olympos, you’ll easily see why! Don’t forget to bring a flashlight with you on the walk up- you’ll want to go at night for maximum effect, and some of the trails can be treacherous in the dark.
Simurg Houses As one of the newest pensions in Olympos, the proprietors of Simurg Houses (Simurg Evleri) had the advantage of years of observation in the valley to figure out exactly what travelers require when coming here. They’ve got it all ready for you and can provide a wealth of knowledge about the area, from the best way to reach the beach and the ruins to what you should pack for the trip up to the ISCOU eternal fires.
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With ten free-standing wooden houses and an additional eight rooms, Simurg Evleri is one of the smaller accommodation options here. Food and alcoholic drinks are served in the restaurant / cafe, which features theme nights throughout the week and often has live music. Try their international dishes, but definitely don’t miss the traditional Turkish food either. There’s a garden where
+90 242 892 11 91 info@simurgevleri.com www.simurgevleri.com you can find grapefruits, figs, oranges, and pomegranates, among other things- all of which are put to good use in the local recipes. The staff of Simurg arrange trips up to the Chimaera nearly every day- book yourself in for a close-up look at the eternal flames, and get the added benefit of English (or Turkish) explanation of the science and mythology behind what you’re seeing.
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Bayram’s Tree House +90 242 892 12 43 olympos@bayrams.com www.bayrams.com
buffet breakfast every morning to help you get some caffeine and carbs in your system to recover from last night. Chill in a hammock while you eat and then challenge someone to a game of that old Turkish favorite, backgammon. Or maybe nargile is more your style; Bayram’s will supply you with a water pipe so you can relax and puff away all day long in the orange grove.
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Dorms and private bungalows with ensuite bathrooms are both offered here- included in the price are both dinner and a massive
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Leisure is a way of life at this chilled-out to the max dive. In Olympos, “Bayram’s” has pretty much become a synonym for... well, everything from “fun” to “relaxation” to “partying.” You’re sure to find hordes of likeminded travelers congregating here for a chat or a beer, and everyone from the outgoing international bar staff to visitors from other camps drawn by the bouncy music will be sprawled out on the pillow-strewn platforms or trading travel stories across the courtyard’s many picnic tables until the early hours of the morning. The motto in camp is “come for a day, stay for a week”... and despite your bestlaid plans, you probably will.
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Bayram’s isn’t just about lazing around in the sun with a cold Efes, though. They do trips to the eternal flame every night and can hook you up with some even more adventurous activities like rock jumping and kayaking if you’re so inclined. There’s also an in-house travel agency to help you plan your next stop; they do cruises as well, so if you want to get up close and personal with the Mediterranean, take a look. Also offered are a laundry service, a book exchange, safe-deposit boxes to store your valuables, and international phone calls.
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Şaban Pension & Tree Houses Saban Pension is a family-run establishment and as such, caters less to the partying crowd and more to those in search of a home away from home in Olympos. Fluent English, German, and Turkish are spoken here, and the assistance of the friendly owners will have you feeling safe and comfortable in no time. The prices for Saban’s tree houses, bungalows, and dorms all include breakfast and dinner, which are carefully and lovingly prepared from local produce in a traditional Turkish style with homey flair. Since Saban’s opened, their food has earned a reputation for being the tastiest in the whole valley,
+90 242 892 12 65 info@sabanpansion.com www.sabanpansion.com meriting awards and word-of-mouth praise which you may have heard long before actually arriving here. The plentiful buffets here may have you spreading some accolades yourself! Saban is a short walk from the ruins and the beach. They’ll be happy to help you organize sports or tours as well- just ask! UN
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Cafe Cactus and Camping It never takes anyone long to get into the chilled-out yet party-friendly and natureoriented vibe omnipresent in Olympos; Cafe Cactus embraces all three aspects of this unique place to their fullest extent. It’s one of the few places here you can pitch your own tent- they have raised wooden platforms for the purpose ISCOU so you won’t run the risk of getting wet. Breakfast and a tasty, massive dinner are included in the price.
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+90 242 892 19 55 cactus@olymposcactus.com www.olymposcactus.com The main attraction of Cafe Cactus, though, is the live music, primarily reggae, funk, and pop. All it will take for you to kick off your shoes and rearrange your itinerary so you can stay here longer is one night sitting under the lemon trees, rocking out to the beats, and sipping an ice-cold beer from the bar. Try it for yourself!
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Kumluca / Adrasan
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Kumluca / Adrasan 12 kilometers beyond the wealthy town of Kumluca, you’ll come to the a pretty bay- this is Adrasan, a perfect place to stop for the afternoon and take in the view from the beach. Development is quite slow here due to the government protection over the entire park region, but it is proceeding despite the regulations and you can find a number of modern buildings catering to the traveler crowd here.
Street Cafe & Pension The Street Cafe occupies a fantastic location on the north end of Adrasan Bay, great for watching the sun set and the moon rise. This is absolutely the place to be for enjoying life’s simple pleasures- sun, sand, and sea. The welcoming managers (Ramazan, Birgit, and their son Timur) speak English, Turkish, and German. COUNT
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Book a bungalow here if you fancy a longer stay- you can get a small one designed for 2-4 people, or a larger one which sleeps up to eight if you’re traveling in a group. Escape the heat in your air-conditioned room before heading outside again in the cool of twilight! Being a family-oriented type of place, the Street
Deniz Mah. Deniz Cad. +90 242 883 13 54 contact@streetcafe-adrasan.de www.streetcafe-adrasan.de Cafe and Pension offers all kinds of facilities you won’t find elsewhere and should be your first choice if you have young ones with you. Everything from baby monitors to cribs can be had- all you have to do is ask. You can tell by the name that this is one place which takes its food seriously. Restaurant by day and bar by night, you’ll discover all sorts of local dishes and drinks here. Take care to try the cheesecake and cappucinos, both house specialties. Ask about the nearby vegetable and spice market which takes place on Sundays!
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Sundance Camp Sundance Camp, outside the upscale town of Tekirova, is a refreshing break from the high-tech, high-paced, noisy life of the center. A scattered collection of buildings and outdoor facilities on the edge of a lush forest, staying at Sundance is a ticket to relaxation and harmony with nature. “Stress” just isn’t in their vocabulary here, and after a few days, it won’t be in yours either.
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+90 242 821 55 27 info@sundancecamp.com www.sundancecamp.com chemical detergents are used. All the food prepared in the restaurant, of course, is organic and most of it is grown right on-site in the gardens. Workshops are offered throughout the year (and Sundance is open even in the winter), many of which are focused on crafts or yoga. Guests may attend a welcome workshop for free upon arrival. Be sure to inquire about the activities Sundance has availablejust for starters, there’s horseback riding, backgammon, volleyball, and table tennis.
low season Sundance offers fourteen bungalows, three tree lodges, nine tree houses, and a camping area. The bungalows come in the widest variety of sizes, ranging from small oneperson options to larger ones which can accommodate up to four people. The commitment to ecological practices is obvious here. The showers are heated by solar panels, for instance, and no harmful
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www.anatoliahospital.com Belek 0242 725 50 00 Antalya 0242 249 33 00 Side 0242 744 02 02 Kemer 0242 814 59 70
Çaybaşı Mah. 1352 SOK. NO:12 07100 Antalya Tel. 0242 2493300 antalyainfo@anatoliahospital.com
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AȘȘAĞI PAZARCI MAH. 1001 SOK. NO:75 0242 7463920 cinbot@mynet.com
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Are you ready to spend a wonderful day in the cold rivers of hot ALANYA?
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Baraj Yolu Caddesi 8. km.Dim Çayı Mahallesi Kestel / Alanya T. 0242 5181467 info@adapiknik.com
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Kaleiçi / Antalya The 2200 year old city of Antalya, founded by the Greeks and originally known as Attalia, is nowadays one of the largest ports on Turkey’s southern coast. Many travelers to the region either start or end their Mediterranean explorations here, and it has become hugely important on Turkey’s tourism scene; millions of people visit every year. Grab a map and check out the Aspendos theater, still standing from Roman times, as well as the impressive archaeology museum, the best in the area. Don’t miss Kaleiçi (which roughly translates to “inside the castle”). Passing through the historical Hadrian’s Gate, you can go for a leisurely stroll down cobbled streets taking you past ancient buildings and ruins; the area is under government protection, and efforts are being taken to preserve the classical elements present in Antalya’s old district. Kaleiçi may remind you of western Europe’s old towns, with its narrow alleys and imposing stone walls.
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Simurg Cafe & Bar Selçuk Mah. Tabakhane Sok. No. 7 +90 242 241 66 25 simurgcafe@hotmail.com www.simurgcafe.com as off-nights; Mondays and Tuesdays feature awesome, upbeat live music, for instance, while Fridays and Saturdays are quieter.
With theme nights throughout the week, you should be sure to check out the schedule of events to see if anything in particular catches your fancy. Simurg specializes in keeping you busy on what you might typically think of
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While you’re wandering around Antalya’s old town, keep a sharp eye out for Simurg Cafe and Bar. It’s got a prime location in Kaleiçi and is definitely one of the city’s coolest places to pass an afternoon or to get a little rowdy at night before heading out to a club (if that’s your style). The decor inside is simple, with a bit of a medieval vibe going on to remind you that you’re still chilling out in the remains of an ancient city.
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Oasis Pansiyon This quiet and friendly pension located in the heart of old Antalya is just what you’re looking for if you want a clean place to drop your bags before heading off for some convenient exploration of Kaleiçi. Plan your walking route in the garden while you sip a cup of tea or coffee (both of which ISCOU are free all day).
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Barboros Mah. Müze Sok. No. 13 +90 242 243 11 90 oasispension@hotmail.com Other facilities include a parking lot in case you’ve got a car of your own (don’t underestimate the value of this: parking can be a beast in Antalya), as well as airport transfer for a small fee, which covers insurance. If you’re hungry and want a quick something without venturing out into the city proper, see what’s up at the restaurant!
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Sabah Pansiyon Sabah Pension is the first family-owned guesthouse in the whole of the old city, so they have both the experience and the welcoming vibe to make you feel right at home. Nearly 25 years old, Sabah has had plenty of time to get everything in order- and they have, as evidenced by the hordes of guidebooks and travelers who recommend this place with outspoken enthusiasm. It’s more than just a hostel- it’s a meeting point for backpackers of all nationalities.
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Kaleiçi Kılınçaslan Mh. Hesapcı Sok. No. 60 +90 242 247 53 45 sabahpansiyon@yahoo.com www.sabahpansiyon.com
Of course, the owners are ready to help you organize tours, airport transfers, and activities if you like. The pension is highly Englishfriendly, with fluent staff and daily English newspapers available for your perusal if you want to keep up with the news from home (for more personal updates, take advantage of the wi-fi).
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Cappadocia Cappadocia A visit to Cappadocia, situated in the heart of Anatolia, may be the closest any of us will ever get to being on the moon. The region’s famous fairy chimneys stretch for miles in every direction, looking like something out of the more mythical side of Turkey’s history. You may be startled and bemused by the sight of all these spooky and highly memorable formations at first, but a few days in the territory will make you feel like a regular cave-dweller yourself. The unusual “earth architecture” initially appears to be folkloric, perhaps created by some ancient Greek god. In reality, Cappadocia’s strange formations are the result of volcanic activity from three local peaks (Erciyes, Hasan, and Melendiz), which spread the soft material called tuff across the landscape approximately 30 million years ago. The unique combination of tuff and volcanic ash, along with millennia of erosion by wind and water left behind the stunning chimneys you can see today. Equally mind-blowing are the innumerable caves cut into the rock by early inhabitants which are still used today for everything from houses to restaurants to storerooms; plan a trip to Göreme if you’re keen on seeing these dwellings still in common use.
If you’re curious about the historical inhabitants of the area, definitely make a visit to the underground cities a priority. Here, you’ll find a striking early religious influence, created during the Roman period when Christians attempting to escape government persecution took shelter under the earth. They built houses and cathedrals on plans featuring up to eight subterranean stories and kilometer upon kilometer of tunnels. Although frequent buses and dolmuşes run between the main sites of tourist interest here, the roads are often poor quality and the sites are quite spread out. If you’re on a tight schedule and money isn’t an obstacle, you might want to look into renting a car for the duration of your stay in Cappadocia.
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Cappadocia / Göreme Göreme The small but vibrant town of Göreme makes an excellent base for seeing the highlights of Cappadocia. A 30-minute bus trip from the much larger Nevşehir, Göreme is tiny enough that you won’t get lost and in all likelihood your hostel will be mere steps from the very central otogar. Don’t let its small size deceive you, though! Göreme’s packed with things to see and do, and is the only place in Cappadocia where locals still live in the dug-out caves at the base of the fairy chimneys. Cappadocia is as scenic as it comes, and hikers will be in paradise. Be sure not to miss the gorgeous treks through Pigeon Valley and Rose Valley, both of which guarantee panoramas you’ll not soon forget; pick up a free map from the bus station, as the trails are sometimes poorly signposted. By the time you end up in Göreme, you’ll probably have heard travelers from all over raving about the Open-Air Museum, a short walk from the city center. Its haunting caves and towering chimneys are more than fascinating enough by themselves, but the Dark Church inside is also well worth checking out. If it’s partying you’re after, head to Fat Boy’s Bar & Restaurant, 30 seconds’ walk from the otogar, for a lively game of pool and a few cold glasses of Efes. You’ll find plenty of thirsty locals and travelers alike at this chilled-out hangout. A note of caution to Göremebound travelers: the recent tourism boom here has taken a serious toll on the region’s ecosystems. Water shortages are common, and trash can be seen all too often on the otherwise majestic lookout points. Please do your best to ensure that your visit not only is amazing for you but also leaves the town just as spectacular for the next people to come along!
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Emre’s Cave House Tired of lugging your bags around? Emre’s is as central as it gets, just a one-minute walk from the bus station. Even better, the cheerful Turkish and Japanese owners, Bayram and Myna, will not only remember your name but also go out of their way to help you any way they can, be it cooking up a delicious traditional Turkish meal on request or giving you directions to your next destination. Emre’s makes a fantastic traveler’s meeting point, and most guests spend a good chunk of time hanging out in the common room and swapping travel stories or recommendations for where to go and what to do in the area. If you want to catch some sun without leaving the haven of the hostel, head upstairs to the sunny balcony and watch the passage of the clouds.
+90 384 271 26 54 caveemre@hotmail.com day of trekking and sightseeing. Prepare for a warm welcome from Efe, the resident canine, and prop your feet up with a beer and a novel from the multilingual bookshelf. The swimming pool is open in the summer, and the management can arrange any type of tour your heart desires, including Turkish dance nights, balloon flights, horseback riding, whirling dervish shows, car rentals, and much more.
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All of the food offered here is home-cooked by the owners, and will be served to you piping hot with a huge basket of freshlybaked bread. Make a point of trying the menemen (a breakfast dish consisting of eggs and vegetables)- you won’t regret it! Tea, coffee, hot chocolate, and alcohol are all available as well as a wide selection of fruit juices. With both dorms and privates, Emre’s is clean and well-equipped. The showers are heated by solar power, and are among the steamiest you’ll find anywhere in Turkey, perfect for washing off the grime after a long
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Cappadocia Flintstones Cave Hotel & Pension
Don’t forget to ask the friendly staff what’s in season from the garden out back!
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Orta Mah. Uzundere Cad. No:3 +90 384 271 25 55 info@flintstonescave.com www.flintstonescave.com
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They can also help you to arrange horse rides or sightseeing tours if you’re feeling adventurous. Also take a gander at ISCOU the specials advertised on-line as well as in-house- often you’ll be able to score a free Turkish coffee or other treats. high season
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Flintstones has something for everyone, from jacuzzi-equipped suites to twenty-one clean and simple private rooms to two mixed dorm rooms, all provided with the all-important air conditioning. Shampoo, soap, towels, slippers, and hair dryers can also be supplied if you find you’ve forgotten yours. Although it’s only a short walk from the otogar, Flintstones feels far away from the bustle of Göreme’s main streets; it’s an ideal place to stay if you’re looking for a game of pool in the common room, a leisurely swim, or just a place to relax with a drink from the bar.
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Travel Inn Cave Hotel If you’re looking for accommodation that’s a cut above the rest in Göreme, take your bags straight to the Travel Inn Cave Hotel. With its twelve classy rooms decorated in the Ottoman style, you’ll be in a luxurious sanctuary from the heat and clamor outsidemany of them even have jacuzzis in the ensuite bathrooms. Each tasteful room is themed according to an appropriate gemstone, and the building itself has been restored and converted from ancient cave habitations.
Orta Mah. Harım Sok. No. 39 +90 384 271 26 22 sovalye70@hotmail.com www.travelinncavehotel.com
here. There’s a terrace with a spectacular panorama- take your meals on it if you prefer, and watch the sun sinking over the amazing landscape in front of you.
Since the hotel sits squarely on one of the hills in central Göreme, you’ll get some of the best views available from anyplace in town
Don’t skip the cafe, where breakfast is served in style. You can even get some karaoke going with your friends if you want to inject an element of partying into your fancy day!
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Ürgüp Balloon For those after an even more breathtaking and unusual experience, shop around for balloon flights which depart at sunrise year-round, weather permitting. Ürgüp Balloon, east of the bus station at the edge of town, is highly recommended. Ürgüp Balloons recognizes that breakfast is the most important meal of the day: before every flight, they offer a huge buffet breakfast to help you get your eyes open to take in the awesome spectacle you’re about to witness.On a typical outing, the balloons rise to an amazing height of
Yeni Camii Mah. İstiklal Cad. No. 52 +90 384 341 56 36 info@urgupballoons.com www.urgupballoons.com 1000-3300 feet above the ground, giving you a truly incredible view of the landscape from above. Definitely don’t forget your camera! If you’re going in the winter, also be sure to bring warm clothes, as it can get a bit chilly up in the sky.
Halil Pension
Yukarı Mahalle Amaç Sokak No: 35 Güzelyurt / Aksaray +90 382 451 27 07 fatihsakin58@gmail.com www.halilspension.com
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A lot of pensions claim that their guests are treated like close relatives, but Halil’s takes it to another level entirely- the accommodations are located inside the family’s home. Close to the center of the town, it’s incredibly convenient for exploring Güzelyurt, but you may find yourself wanting to just hang out in the bright kitchen with the owners instead. You’ll never get sick of their famous restaurant, utilizing vegetables grown in the outdoor garden and lovingly prepared each day- partake in a shared meal with your hosts. The building itself is spotless and bright, more so than you might be expecting from a 140-year old Greek house. If you’re too full to move after one of the generous meals, consider just sprawling out and taking in the view of the Güzelyurt lake.
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Cappadocia
Nemrut Mount Nemrut Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı in Turkish) is among Turkey’s most iconic and well-known destinations. You may have seen images of the gigantic stone heads scattered across the area on tourist brochures or books concerning ancient civilizations; even if you haven’t, you’re sure to find the site breathtaking and a sure highlight of your trip to Turkey. Built by slaves in the Kingdom of Commagene, the massive statues which now adorn the summit were commissioned by King Antiochus in the first century BC as a grandiose and ultimately narcissistic tribute to... himself. The complex served as a tomb and temple sanctuary, and many of the decapitated heads which lie strewn across the mountain represent Greek gods or the rulers of the kingdom (including, of course, Antiochus). The eastern temple still stands as well, along with an altar made of sandstone and used for ritual sacrifice. Interestingly, the marks on the stone heads, particularly the noses, are seemingly uniform and suggest the destructive work of later iconoclasts. Many people take pains to arrive at the peak of Mount Nemrut at dawn, in order to see the ruins by the light of the rising sun. It’s a truly impressive sight, but going later in the day will spare you the crowds as well as the necessity of waking up well before first light in order to make it to the relatively remote site by daybreak. If you’d prefer to stay overnight, try the Güneş Hotel, close to the summit and relatively cheap. Numerous tours to the mountain are available out of İstanbul or nearer cities such as Malatya; alternately, take a dolmuş or rent your own car. Regardless of how you get there, you’ll need to walk the last half kilometer on your own. Take note: Mount Nemrut can only be visited from March to October due to its high altitude and the heavy snows which fall here in the winters.
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Malatya
Malatya, roughly sixty kilometers distant from Nemrut Dağı National Park, makes a convenient base for exploring the area. The tourist office- which can be found in the governor’s office behind İnönü Square- serves primarily as a center for comparing and purchasing tours to the park, most of which are two-day deals allowing you to view the stone heads at both sunset and sunrise. You may consider approaching Mount Nemrut from the north on a trip originating in Malatya, and then continuing south to visit the numerous smaller sites in the area. Malatya’s main draw, aside from its handy location, is the excellent museum featuring well laid out collections primarily taken from Aslantepe, a nearby settlement dating to the fourth century BC. Foodies will also appreciate the central Şire Pazarı, where you can find all types of fresh, local fruits and vegetables. The apricots are particularly good, and Malatya has a reputation for producing some of the country’s best. Also worth a visit is Eski Malatya some 12 kilometers north of the city proper. You can reach it in one of the dolmuşes labeled “Battalgazi”, the name given to the modern settlement built over the Roman and Byzantine ruins. Check out the mosque complex of Ulu Cami, built by a Seljuk sultan. Accommodation in the city is easy to come by but in general somewhat expensive and not especially inspired. Among the limited budget choices are Park Otel (Atatürk Caddesi No: 17) and Otel Pehlivan (Cumhuriyet Çarşısı No: 26), both of which are simple and central.
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Mardin Mardin With its picturesque old buildings spilling down the hillside on which the city was built, Mardin is a beautiful and often-overlooked stop on the route through southeastern Turkey. Although it used to have a bad reputation as a hotbed of PKK activity, Mardin is slowly gaining back cred as a travel destination, and nowadays is quite safe. Don’t miss the bazaar or the Kırklar Kilesesi (Forty Martyrs’ Church, Sağlık Street), both in the old city. However, the real attraction of Mardin is the fascinating blend of cultures- Turkish, Kurdish, Assyrian, and Arab- which can be observed throughout the entire town.
Hassankeyf This magnificent and historical little town, ringed by prehistoric caves and infused with centuries of Seljuk, Kurdish, and Arab history, is reachable by dolmuş from Batman. Its magnificent rock formations and evocative ruins would be worth a visit under any circumstances, but as it is, you should make it Hassankeyf a top priority; there are controversial plans in place to construct a dam nearby which would leave much of the area underwater and destroy countless important sites, as well as displace thousands of inhabitants. The town was added to the World Monuments Fund Watch List in 2008 and there has been a major outcry against the proposed construction, but it may not be enough. Get there while you can!
Otel Başak Mardin’s only budget hostel, Otel Başak is a simple lodging for travelers without cash to burn on the city’s more upscale options. It’s centrally located, great for optimizing your exploration of the old city, and the rooms, though small, are clean. Those with a squat toilet phobia should take heed that
Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Kışlı Sokak No: 2 +90 482 212 62 46 the bathrooms here are a la turca as well as shared. You can get a space to sleep on the roof if you’re keen to save even more money.
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Hatay Hatay The Hatay, a wedge of Turkey cutting into the northwestern border of Syria, is a bit of a world apart from the rest of the country. The region’s largest town, Antakya, has seen empires come and go but now seems almost more Arab than Turkish; indeed, Syrian Arabic is the mother tongue of the majority of inhabitants, although Turkish is almost universally understood. The influence of the area’s southern neighbor doesn’t end there, and can be seen in everything from the desserts (try künefe) to the ancient Christian ruins dating back to when the city was called Antioch. Check out the teahouses in Büyük Antakya Parkı as well as the classical mosaics found in the Archaeological Museum.
Riverside Turkey Riverside is a gem of a hostel in central Hatay, run by the jovial and generous Metin. The rooms are spotless and the common areas are breezy, with a balcony overlooking the river. With only six beds and an owner full of Turkish hospitality, staying Riverside feels more like visiting a family friend than checking into a hostel, and you’re more than likely to be treated to some home cooking or an engaging chat about the history of the
Ulucamii Mah. Payas Sok. No. 10 +90 537 788 82 96 city. To top it off, the amenities are greatyou’ll be glad to see the washing machine after weeks on the road, and tea and coffee are free all day.
Onward to Syria Getting to Syria is no longer quite as difficult as it once was. A number of international buses operate between Antakya and the Syrian capital of Damascus (seven hours distant), as well as the closer Aleppo, only three hours away. Has is the most popular bus company with which to make the crossing, but ask around if their timetable doesn’t fit your schedule; Güney is also reputable. Make sure to investigate the visa requirements before setting off for the border. Some nationalities can obtain a visa on the spot, but for others, you’ll need to visit a consulate in advance.
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Van
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Van Van & Around Located on the eastern shore of Lake Van, the largest lake in Turkey, Van is a small city steeped in history. Archaeological finds dating back to 5000 BC have been encountered here, although the city proper is presumed to have been an important capital of the Urartian Kingdom starting in the 9th century BC. Among the important artifacts from the region are numerous cuneiform tablets as well as inscriptions from the Persian Empire. Van is famous for its white cats with one green eye and one blue, who- unusually- enjoy swimming (not a typical cat pasttime!). Check out Tuşba, Van’s old city. The spectacular palace complex of the Urartian Kingdom still stands, and visitors will find numerous points of interest- the double hamam is particularly cool. Also on the list of unmissables in old Van are the many churches and historic mosques- take a look at the Church of St Paul and Kaya Çelibi Mosque, along with the beautiful surrounding gardens. Van Castle, unsurprisingly, is the focal point of Tuşba, and includes burial chambers and temple foundations. Take a look at the inscriptions which can be found all around the complex; the longest surviving writing, in honor of an ancient king who once resided here, can be found at the entrance to the main burial chamber. Akdamar Church (also known as the Church of the Holy Cross) is also well worth a visit. Founded around 920 AD, it was an important place of worship for the Armenian inhabitants of the Lake Van region until around 1895, when it was abandoned as a result of growing tensions between Armenia and the Ottoman Empire. The interior of the church is famous for its beautiful carvings depicting a range of Biblical scenes, as well as the impressive animal-adorned border running all the way around the building.
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Van Van & Around Near Van, the impressive İshak Paşa Sarayı is a relatively modern palace built in the seventeenth century by the reigning Ottoman Empire. Famous for its Ottoman art and its stunning location on a valley slope (5 kilometers outside of Doğubeyazıt), the palace is actually an entire complex rather than a single building. If you’ve already visited Topkapı Palace in İstanbul, you may notice the many similarities in their layouts! The interior of the palace is decorated with floral and geometric motifs, many of which are carved into the walls. Also be on the lookout for Quranic inscriptions praising the pashas. As it was constructed relatively recently, the İshak Paşa Palace is still in good repair and and be toured extensively. Sections of particular interest include the mosque, the inner courts, and the dungeons; also check out the entrance to the harem, where you can view an inscription stating that construction of this section was completed in 1784 by the grandson of the original commissioner, İshak Paşa (thus the name).
Getting to Van Located in the far eastern reaches of Turkey, Van is a long way away from İstanbul. Buses and trains do run there relatively frequently, but you’re in for a grueling journey (roughly 28 to 34 hours from İstanbul by bus, or 22 hours from Ankara). The bus station is a few kilometers outside of town; free shuttles run into central Van, but remember to allow some extra time for this if you have a schedule to keep. You can take a train from Haydarpaşa in İstanbul to Tatvan, across Lake Van, on Mondays and Fridays. The trip takes 40 hours. From there, get on the four-hour ferry to cross the lake. If you want to save some time, catch a plane to Van Airport from any of the major western cities. It’s a few kilometers outside of town, so you’ll need to either hire a taxi or walk to the main road and get a dolmuş.
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Van Akdamar Camping & Restaurant
In business for over 25 years, Akdamar Akdamar Adayı Karşısı, Restaurant is undoubtedly a top choice for Gevaş sampling eastern Turkish cuisine. Situated +90 432 214 34 79 right on the edge of Lake Van, you can dine ibrahimakdamar@hotmail.com in style with a view of the water, watching www.akdamarrestaurant.net the ships crossing to the harbor. Sit on the outside terrace for the best atmospherethere are shade canopies to shield ISCOU There’s more to Akdamar than the food, you from the sun, and the bright though: you can pitch your tent for free colors and plentiful greenery will here, and pay the same price (nothing!) make you feel relaxed and welcome. for a hot shower at the end of the day. Choose from a variety of traditional Weary travelers will feel right at home here, or more international dishes; the house and the friendly owner will do everything in specialties include a delicious pilav and the his power to keep you feeling that way. famous Van breakfast spread.
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Sütçü Fevzi Kahvaltı Salonu Along with its bizarre cats and its incredible setting, there’s another big thing Van is justly famous for: its breakfasts. Breakfast halls are still are tradition here, where people gather for the most important meal of the day and choose from a huge spread of dishes to get them going in the morning. Sütçü Fevzi is one of the local favorites, popular with both travelers and the city’s inhabitants themselves. CO
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With several tables set up outside in the sunshine, you can get a cheery and filling
Cumhuriyet Mah. Kahvaltıcilar Sok. No. 9 +90 432 216 66 18 siparis@sutcufevzi.com www.sutcufevzi.com start to your morning. Scan the table for your favorite items, but make sure to try everything! There are tomatoes and olives, bread and butter, cream, cucumbers, eggs, and numerous types of delicious and fresh cheese. Try the otlu peynir in particular- it’s a specialty of the region, and consists of cheese mixed with a sharp-tasting herb.
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Grand Deniz Turizm To truly experience the vastness and calm of Turkey’s largest lake, embark on a boat tour to one of its many islands. Grand Deniz Turizm can organize trips to a number of islands including Ahtamara and Çarpanak, where you will experience the laid-back pace of life in the eastern region and the soothing harmony of nature, where the green shore meets the blue of the water. It’s hard to picture a more romantic setting than this, and in recognition, Grand Deniz will even organize wedding ceremonies! Even if you’re not looking for a place to get hitched, they can do all sorts of special parties, meetings, and events.
Selçuklu Mezerliği Karşısı +90 432 612 40 38 bilgi@granddeniz.com www.granddeniz.com
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Grand Deniz also has a traditional restaurant serving three meals a day, but most especially
You can park your camper next to Lake Van as well, or camp for free if you’ve brought your own tent. They can organize transportation to Akdamar if you want an adventure a little further afield.
Aşiyan Ev Yemekleri
most well-known for its succulent desserts. Try some old favorites like baklava, or get a little more adventurous and try the kayısı tatlısı (an apricot-based sweet dish). Whatever you opt for, ISCOU though, you can be sure of one thing- you’ll be coming back for more.
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Don’t miss the pilav, mantı, and karnıyarıkall home-cooked in the local style, as with everything on the menu here. But Aşiyan is
Maraş Cad. Dervişoğlu Apt. +90 432 212 41 90 www.asiyanevyemekleri.com.tr
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The elegant yet simple Aşiyan Ev Yemekleri boasts hands down some of the best food you’ll find in Van. Frequented by tourists as well as droves of locals, Aşiyan has been in business for six years and they know exactly what their customers are looking for in a traditional restaurant. You’ll find just about any kind of traditional Turkish food you can name here- and, more than likely, a huge selection of ones you can’t!
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the Van breakfast which the area is famous for. If you fancy a lakefront picnic, their location is unbeatable- take your food right down to the waterside!
Van Merit Şahmaran Otel Tired of dorms and shared bathrooms? Maybe it’s time to splash out a bit and book yourself a room in one of Van’s fanciest highclass hotels. Merit Şahmaran has absolutely everything you need to relax and refresh yourself after weary weeks on the roadincluding, of course, top-notch service with a smile.
Yeniköy Mevkii Edremit +90 432 312 30 61 info@meritsahmaranotel.com www.meritsahramanotel.com
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Spectacularly located right on Lake Van, Merit Şahraman has a huge range of luxuries to get you back on your feet. The typical Van breakfasts you’ve probably heard so much about are free with your room booking- start
your day right. After eating, go for a swim in the pool or head to the fitness room for some cardio or weightlifting. If you have something a little more relaxing in mind, the sauna might be more your thing. If you haven’t yet been to a hamam in Turkey, definitely don’t miss the in-house bath here. N
Bayram Otel
Traditional breakfasts are available, and you can request a snack or some tea at anytime
Cumhuriyet Cad. No. 1 +90 432 216 11 36 (ext 37) info@hotelbayram.com www.hotelbayram.com throughout the day- dial room service from your bed if you don’t feel like making the trip downstairs. Bayram offers laundry service and housekeeping, just the kind of refreshing change you need after weeks of hostels. If you’re in danger ISCOU of getting too settled in here, remember that there’s a travel desk where they can help you with onward bookings!
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The rooms are all ensuite, with televisions and adjustable air conditioning. Hair dryers are provided in each of the rooms, as well as phones. You’re sure to get a relaxing night’s sleep on one of their orthopedic beds, with pillows to match.
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With sixty rooms and forty years of experience, Bayram Hotel is an ideal choice for travelers seeking comfort and convenience. It’s centrally located, close to all sorts of services, and with the double advantage of a fantastic view of the city center of Van!
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Black Sea Safranbolu
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Located in the Western Black Sea region, Safranbolu is a charming little town retaining much of its Ottoman character from previous centuries. In fact, it’s known for being perhaps the most “Ottoman” city in all of Turkey; due to its historical architecture, Safranbolu has been named to the UNESCO World Heritage List. Particularly interesting to history enthusiasts is the Kaymakamlar Evi, which features separate courtyards with windows from the harem quarters as well as the men’s rooms (known as selamlık). If you want to catch a view of the entire old town from a height, make your way to Hıdırlık Tepesi. Cooks and eager shoppers should keep an eye out for saffron, the spice for which Safronbolu was named. Safranbolu is roughly six hours outside of İstanbul by bus and makes a fantastic waypoint for travelers heading east to Samsun, Trabzon, or Georgia. Most intercity buses will drop you in the modern town; to reach the much more picturesque old town (Eski Safranbolu), hop on a dolmuş.
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Black Sea Samsun Featuring prominently in the 20th century history of the Turkish Republic as well as being an important sea port throughout the years, Samsun is nevertheless short on areas of touristic interest. The main exceptions are the two museums in town. The first of these is the Archaeological Museum, displaying an impressive mosaic salvaged from the old settlement of Karasamsun, while the second, the Gazi Museum, is dedicated to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the modern republic. Getting to Samsun is a fairly easy business from most points in Turkey. There’s an airport 19 km outside of town; arriving by bus, it’s about a nine hour journey from İstanbul. Heading east from Samsun, take a drive along the scenic Yason Burnu (Cape Jason), so named for the famous Argonaut. An ancient temple dedicated to the hero is said to have once stood here; now, it has been replaced by a quaint church, well worth a visit.
Trabzon Founded by the Greeks in the eighth century BC, Trabzon has a long and rich history spanning numerous civilizations and accumulating, over the centuries, wide and varied influences. Trabzon even boasts an ex-church museum called, familiarly, the Hagia Sophia (or Aya Sofya). For reasonably-priced accommodation, stay at the Anıl Otel (+90 462 326 72 82). Trabzon is well-connected on public transportation routes and thus is relatively easy to reach. The bus station is served by minibuses, and is closer to town than the airport (about three kilometers). Take a taxi or catch a tour to Sümela Monastery, roughly 48 km southeast of the city. Built in Byzantine times after the Greek monk Barnabas discovered a holy icon here, it hugs the cliffside in a remarkable feat of engineering. A second must-do excursion from Trabzon is Uzungöl, 45 km outside the town of Çaykara. The beautiful scenery is best viewed from a mountain bike, which you can hire at one of the many shops and teahouses on its edges.
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Rize The mid-sized city of Rize is the last semi-major city on Turkey’s west-to-east Black Sea coastal route toward Georgia. Somewhat lacking in tourist attractions but definitely not in charm, Rize offers a museum (on Ulubatlı Sokak) displaying traditional costumes in an old Ottoman building, as well as a Genoese castle overlooking the town. Rize is a great place to learn about the history of the local Laz people as well- the museum will get you started. Rize’s fame, however, comes from its prominence in Turkey’s tea industry; east of Trabzon, the climate is ideal for its production. You can see the tea bushes growing all over the area at low altitudes as you enter the city. Once inside, shop around for local varieties to take home or have a wander through the tea garden where you’ll get a free cup of çay when you visit. Rize makes an excellent jumping-off point to visit the spectacular Kaçkar Mountains. Part of northern Turkey’s Pontic range, the area has been a national park since 1994 and features some of the most unspoiled and rugged terrain anywhere in the country. Nature-lovers will be in paradise; endless trekking opportunities are available, taking you past waterfalls and lush mountains pastures known as yaylalar. You can even summit Mount Kaçkar, the fourth-highest peak in Turkey. Hikers intent on getting an early start may want to stay in one of the trail-head villages for a night before setting out. The clean Natura Lodge (www.naturaotel.com; +90 464 657 05 79) has 21 rooms and offers great scenery with a rustic feel. Located in Ayder, they can arrange a variety of Kaçkar tours for you, designed to cover all of the region’s most majestic highlights while under the supervision of a trained guide. Alternately, stay at the budget İstanbul Pansiyon (+90 535 553 16 67). You can reach Ayder by dolmuş from the town of Pazar, which in turn is minibus-accessible from Rize.
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Black Sea The Maçahel Valley is truly one of Turkey’s untouched gems- so much so that international visitors require a special permit to access the 23 villages scattered along the Machakhlistskali River. The area was under Georgian control until it fell to the Ottoman empire in 1479; even today, however, the way of life in the valley’s tiny settlements seems to consist of an alluring mix of Turkish and Georgian tradition. The village life isn’t the only attraction here, though, and you’re sure to keep busy with trekking and snapping photographs of the incredible views all around you. To organize a tourism permit, contact Kenan Kahya at +90 532 652 41 96. Kenan also manages a highly-recommended pension in the valley called Bunbulay Pansiyon and is generous about sharing his extensive knowledge of the area.
Getting to Georgia If you want to hop over to Georgia for a bit or continue your adventures in the neighboring country, Rize makes a good starting point. You can catch a bus to Batumi (five hours) or the capital city of Tblisi (eleven hours) from the otogar about a kilometer to the west of town; generally five or six buses cross the border daily. From Rize, the journey will take you to Sarp, a border town which has become the primary crossing point between Turkey and Georgia since the end of the Cold War. Make sure you have the proper visas and documents; citizens of Australia and New Zealand currently require visas (although EU and US citizens do not).
Tbilisi Hostel Located in a two-storey house with a balcony and a garden shaded with vines, Tbilisi Hostel has great views of the ancient fortress and mountains above the city. Relax in the hammocks and bean-bags during the day or party in the garden at night with plenty of Georgian-style drinking. It’s located in an authentic traditional neighbourhood, two
Avlabari, Makhati Shesakhvevi 22, Tbilisi, Georgia +995 5 98 506 969 tbilisi.hostel@gmail.com www.tbilisihostel.com minutes’ walk from a farmer’s market, bakeries and supermarkets and just ten minutes walk from the Old Town.
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Dictionary
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Pronunciation Guide: Turkish pronunciation is fairly straightforward for a native English speaker. Most letters are pronounced roughly as their English equivalents. Take note of the following exceptions: C/c: Like the j in “James” Ç/ç: Like the ch in “church” I/ı: Like the u in “luck” İ/i: Like the i in “ill” J/j: Like the g in “luge” Ö/ö: Like the u in “lurch” Ş/S: Like the sh in “short” Ü/ü: Like the ew in “mew” Ğ/ğ: This letter has no sound of its own, but lengths the preceding vowel
Basics:
Hello/Goodbye (see you): Good morning Yes / No Please Thanks (very much) You’re welcome Excuse me There is / There isn’t Do you speak English? How much is it? What’s your name? My name is...
: Merhaba / Görüşürüz : Günaydın : Evet / Hayır : Lütfen : (Çok) teşekkürler : Bir şey değil / Rica ederim : Pardon : Var / Yok : İngilizce konuşuyor musunuz? : Ne kadar? / Kaç lira? : Adınız ne? : Benim adım....
Getting Around: What time does the next ____ leave / arrive?: Sonraki _____ ne zaman kalkıyor / varıyor? ferry : vapur bus : otobüs shared taxi : dolmuş One-way / Return : Tek yön / Gidiş dönüş Ticket : Bilet Bus station : Otogar Where is...? : ...nerede? Near / Far : Yakın / Uzak Airport: : Havalimanı
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Tu
ay ba bir bö çay çiğ çor do dü elm et fın ka
Dictionary Accommodation Hotel: Pension Campground Is there a free room? One night Two nights Is breakfast included? 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
: Otel : Pansiyon : Camping : Boş oda var mı? : Bir gece : İki gece : Kahvaltı dahil mi? : Bir, iki, üç, dört, beş : Altı, yedi, sekiz, dokuz, on
Turkish food and drink ayran balık bira börek çay çiğ köfte çorba dondurma dürüm elma et fındık kahve
: salty yogurt drink : fish : beer : rich pastry : tea : raw meatballs : soup : ice cream : pita-like roll used to wrap takeaway : apple : meat : hazelnuts : coffee
köfte : meatballs kokoreç : grilled sheep intestines menemen : omelette-like dish with tomatoes midye : mussels patlıcan : aubergine / eggplant peynir : cheese pide : Turkish pizza rakı : alcoholic aniseed drink şarap : wine şeftali : peach sigara böreği: long, cheese-filled pastries yumurta : egg zeytin : olive
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Second edition, September 2011 Free distribution Thanks to everyone who made Hike East possible, especially to all of the awesome Hike East partners throughout Turkey who have offered discounts to our readers! The contents of this guide have been assembled in good faith and with every possible attempt at accuracy. We apologize for any accidental errors contained in its pages. All rights reserved.
Credits İlker Bayraktar (Project Manager) Sierra Hunt (Content Writer) Magda Braniewska (Cover & Logo Design) Çağatay Apaydın (Graphic Design) Lityum Ltd. (Web Design)
Contact the Hike East team! Asmalımescit Sok. No. 29 / 4, Beyoğlu, İstanbul +90 212 245 09 88 info@hikeast.com www.hikeast.com
Special Thanks To ESN Turkey Julia Kotowski Cevdet Oğuz Chillout Hostels M. Deniz Deniz
To take the discounts in this booklet, please make sure your copy is signed by the partner you take it or at least partner’s name written on the back cover!
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Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi Atıf Yılmaz Caddesi (Ağa Cami Sokağı) No:17 Kat:3 Beyoğlu - ISTANBUL
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o o k -- D ok L o L D rr ii n k - E n j o y Co me nk Erasmus & Hostels Enjoy Meeting Point Fish Bazaar St. Beyoğlu-İSTANBUL
Hike East is your free guide to all the best that Turkey has to offer. Trek along some of the most spectacular long-distance trails on earth, check out ancient ruins and magnificent geological formations, or explore huge and endlessly fascinating İstanbul. It’s all right here, including countless discounts and special opportunities just for readers of Hike East!