SUMMER HIKES WITH A COOL PAYOFF

B Y : C O U R T N E Y J O H N S O N

Getting out for a hike is a reward in itself. Stretching out the legs, feeling the warmth of the sun, taking in some views, and breathing the fresh air are just some of the many perks. Whether you prefer the warmth of a hot spring, the cool spray of a waterfall, or a dunk in the ocean, all these hikes offer a cool payoff.

Cummins Falls- Cookeville, TN

While the distance on this hike is short, the route to Cummins Falls (pictured on previous page) requires hikers to hike through the Blackburn Fork Scenic River, requiring balance and scrambling over rocks. This State Scenic river and the area surrounding it are also prone to flash flooding, so be aware of the weather. Muddy conditions can make the hike more challenging. Leashed dogs can also enjoy the three-mile out and back trail.

Start the hike on the Overlook Trail that begins behind the kiosks in the parking lot. Hike for .4 miles until you reach the overlook. Spend some time getting a view of Cummins Falls from above- a different perspective than when you get up close to it. Continue until you reach the Blackburn Fork River trail at about the one-mile mark.

The Blackburn Fork River trail begins with steep stairs as it descends into the river gorge. After the stairs, the trail flattens out as you follow the banks of the river. You will turn left once the trail reaches the river. Before you enter the river, change into water sandals (think Chacos or Tevas) for the quarter-mile journey in the water upriver.

The trail is not marked as you head upriver. Based on recent weather, you may have water up to your knees or water up to your ankles. The closer you get to Cummins Falls, the more rocks you will need to navigate. The falls are 75 feet tall. Visitors can swim into the falls. Large rocks around the falls are perfect for drying off and enjoying some time just viewing the water cascading down.

Don't miss the fossils in the limestone rocks along the banks. Wildflowers bloom on the hillsides in the summer months as well. Minnows and bass may swim by you on your way to the falls. Make your way back to the trailhead retracing your path in the river, along the riverbanks and on the trail. There are bathrooms at the parking lot. Since Cummins Falls is within Cummins Falls State Park, there is an entrance fee for this hike. You also need to apply for a Gorge Access Permit to complete this hike.

Devil's Bathtub- Blackmore, VA

A natural sandstone watering hole, the out, and back 3.2-mile long hike to the "bathtub" is rated moderate. While the name may scare you, this hike has very little elevation gain- just 590 feet overall. The most difficulty comes from the 15 or more water crossings where rocks may be slippery, and water may go up past your knees.

The hike begins on an old rail bed and will descend to the first stream crossing. Be sure to take the trail to the left at .25 miles to stay on the trail for Devil's Bathtub. The trail will hug the Devil's Fork stream, crossing it many times over. Yellow blazes will guide you along the trail that changes from time to time due to erosion and flooding. Keep your eye out for the old coal car past the .5 mile mark.

As you get closer to the pool, the trail will begin to descend along the bank. A rope is present to assist hikers especially needed on the way back. Don't be tricked by the devil when you reach a watering hole at around 1.7 miles fed by a waterfall. This is an enjoyable spot, but you need to continue to reach the true pool. A wooden sign at 1.8 miles designates that you are at the "bathtub-" a 10 ft long by 3 feet wide deep blue-green pool fed by a waterfall. After a dip, use the rope to help you back up the stream bank. Retrace the stream crossings as you head back to the parking lot.

This hike has become more popular over the years, so weekend parking is sometimes at a premium. Be careful of the no trespassing signs when parking as well. Low clearance cars will have difficulty accessing the trailhead. This area is prone to flash flooding, so be sure to watch the weather before attempting this hike. Those looking for a longer hike can add on the Devil's Fork Trail to create a 7.3-mile loop with 1,600 feet of elevation gain. Leashed dogs may also enjoy this hike.

Dungeness Spit Trail- Sequim, WA

With only 135 feet of elevation change, the 10.5-mile round trip Dungeness Spit Trail doesn't seem so difficult, but it's the miles of beach sand that make the trail moderately rated. The trail can be accessed year-round with the New Dungeness Lighthouse (with its continuous light since 1857) and museum as the turnaround point. Note that this trail is a part of the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge, meaning it is excellent for bird watching, but dogs are not allowed. Bring something to collect sea glass along the route. Be sure to watch the tide levels, as low tide is the best time to visit where the sand will be wet. There is an entrance fee that can be paid at the kiosk in the parking area.

This hike begins with a paved trail through a canopy of forest- the only shaded part of the hike. Salal and moss surround you before you make your way downhill approximately 130 feet down to the beach in less than a ½ mile.

Now along the shore, the trail is fairly flat and a mix of cobbles and fine grain sand. The Spit is one of the longest naturally occurring sand spits in the U.S. Dip your toes in the sand or the cool waters of the Dungeness Bay. Make a sandcastle, go fishing and grab the binoculars to watch the waterfowl and shorebirds along the hike. Large pieces of driftwood make great spots to take a break and just enjoy the sounds of the water. The round trip time estimated to complete the hike is approximately five hours plus time at the lighthouse. Views are abundant all along the trail, so turning around early is always an option.

Bald eagles, cormorants, and other birds are common visitors along the spit. The trail continues until you reach the lighthouse. The lighthouse is open for free tours daily 9 -5. Even if the lighthouse isn't open, take the time to climb up the 74 stairs to take in the panoramic view of Vancouver, Canada, the spit and the Strait of Jaun de Fuca on clear days. Be sure to fill up your water bottle for the hike back to the parking lot. If you are very interested in lighthouses, consider the New Dungeness Lighthouse Keeper Program to spend a week as a lighthouse keeper. The Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge is open daily from 7 am to a ½ hour before sunset.

Fifth Water/ Diamond Fork Hot Springs- Spanish Fork,UT

A 2.5-mile hike into the Uinta National Forest takes visitors to a hidden set of hot spring pools accessible year-round. Visitors may choose to ski/snowshoe, fat bike, or even hike in with spikes during the winter months but be aware that the route is now 6 miles each way due to road closures. With only 575 feet of elevation gain, nothing is challenging about the hike except perhaps the final push up to the pools.

The trail skirts Sixth Water Creek before crossing over a bridge at 1.0 mile. The trail will now follow Fifth Water Creek. Much of the trail is shaded as it climbs up and down. Large boulders alongside the trail offer a great place to rest, especially the mushroom-shaped rock before you cross the bridge.

The trail has areas of erosion and steep drop-offs, so keep an eye out, especially if bringing younger hikers along. Most of these areas now feature fences for safety. You will pass several primitive campsites that may or may not be occupied. Expect to start smelling sulfur as the waters of the creek begin to turn a milky blue around the 2.0-mile mark.

The pools offer a refreshing soak. As you head up the hill, the pools get warmer, culminating at the "Honey Pot." Enjoy the scenery before heading back to the trailhead. There is a large parking lot for the Three Forks Trailhead, along with a pit toilet.

Florida Trail at University of Western Florida DunesPreserve- Santa Rosa Island, FL

Recognized as one of the eleven National Scenic Trails in the United States, the Florida Trail is 1,000 miles long. Consider a hike at the University of Western Florida Dunes Preserve for a unique view and a chance to dip your toes in the Pensacola Bay or spend a day on the water after hiking. This portion of the trail on Santa Rosa Island is all sand and a 3.4-mile round trip. Hike-able year round, your leashed pup can even enjoy a day on the sand, especially with the Pensacola Dog Beach right across the street. Sunset is a popular time to hike at the preserve.

There is no immediate access to the trail via a parking lot, so you can plan to be dropped off for the hike start that is along CR 399 or turn the hike into a 5.5-6.4 mile loop/out and back while parking at a beach parking area and either taking the dunes both ways or the paved bike trail back. Bring along the water and apply the sunscreen liberally as you begin your hike up and down the dunes. Follow the blaze posts as you hike along. At times, the posts may be hard to see with the windblown landscape. You may need just to find the safest path on the dunes that will leave no trace. As the trail continues, it passes through a maritime forest and marshland.

The trail will pass by the Bayview Campsite, where tent pitching on the sand is permitted. Continue through more marsh as the trail gets closer to the Portofino condo towers. The trail will meet up with the paved Pensacola Beach Trail. This paved section serves as the turnaround point. Benches offer a place to take in a snack and the view.

While you may take the paved beach trail back if making a loop, we recommend taking the dunes back for a bay and ocean view, including views of the Gulf of Mexico. Enjoy some time playing on the sand and in the water before leaving the preserve.

Goldbug Hot Springs- Salmon, ID

Enjoyable year-round, the 3.5 moderate out and back hike to the Goldbug (Elk Bend) Hot Springs offers a great payoff. With a total of 950 feet of elevation gain, the hike offers no warm-up with a steep hill to start through the sagebrush. Once at the top, the trail will level off.

The hike (snowshoe/spikes in winter) begins on private property, so continued access relies on the considerate behavior of visitors. Once you pass through the gate, you will now be on National Forest Land. The trail will be a mix of overgrown vegetation to a scramble over rocks. Rockslides cover the trail in sections, and you will want to avoid the cacti on the part of the route.

As you reach the box steps, look out for a mossy waterfall-covered cave and take your time on the steep uphill to the pools as the reward will be worth it. Once you go over a small bridge, the pools will come into view. Several pools are ranging in size and temperature to relax in. Fed by a creek, the top pool is the warmest. The pools become colder the further out from the top pool you adventure.

Retrace your steps back to the parking lot after a soak of the muscles. A restroom and plenty of parking is available at the trailhead. A composting toilet is also found along the route. Camping is available in the area. Consider a nighttime trip to the hot springs for amazing star views. Bring your leashed pooch on this hike. Don't forget to stop and take some photos as the landscape views are incredible.

Gold Strikes Hot Springs- Boulder City, NV

The hike to Gold Strikes Hot Springs is as much about the challenging hike as it is the hot springs. A six-mile out and back, there is almost 1,500 feet of elevation gain and requires hikers to climb eight fixed ropes and scramble over rocks. This hike is not suited for children because of the terrain, and it is best to keep the pooch at home for this hike. Gloves are also recommended. It's important to note that this hike is closed from May- September due to extreme heat. Plenty of water and snacks are recommended as the hike is exposed. Flash floods are also common in the area.

Hikers can expect it to take 3-4 hours each way, and there is a checkpoint station before the hike begins to get challenging. The beginning of the hike is relatively tame and flat until the 1.5-mile marker when you encounter a large boulder. Look right, and you will see a strap for stability and some steps to climb down. Arrows help hikers pick the safest routes as they begin to hike amongst the red rock canyon walls.

The hike has an overall elevation change of 950 feet, give or take. Desert bighorn sheep are commonly seen scampering the canyon walls with ease. The first hot spring you encounter is likely dry, although the area is prone to flash floods, so some water may be present. Keep hiking until you find the second hot spring. This one typically has water, but a "secret" cave called the Cave of Wonder is probably the most exciting part of your stop here. A stream and a set of small waterfalls will lead you to the third and most popular spring to soak in.

The best part about the hot springs, beyond the relaxation, is the views of the Hoover Dam and the Colorado River from the pools. Cliff jumping is also common in the area. Visitors recommend a dip in the river (about ¼ mile downhill) before you enjoy the hot springs. The hike back out is said to be more difficult getting up the ropes. Leave plenty of time and energy for the hike back.

High Dune on First Ridge Great Sand Dunes NationalPark- Alamosa, CO

The most common dune to hike up at this national park, many visitors mistake the High Dune on the First Ridge to be the tallest and highest dune in the park. It isn't as five dunes are over 700 feet tall within the national park. Alas, this approximately 3 miles out and back (depending on the route you take) will have your calves burning and is rated difficult.

After crossing Medano Creek, hikers zig-zag their way up the ridgeline to the top of the dune. There is no set trail to follow as the dunes are continually changing. On average, it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to hike up. From the top, you can typically see the whole dune field. Be on the lookout for unique vegetation, including rice grass and scurf pea, and wildlife like the kangaroo rat and Abert's squirrels in the forest areas around the dunes.

As the dunes can reach temperatures over 100 °F in the summer, and thunderstorms are common in the summer, getting an early morning start is recommended. Sunrises are epic from the top of the dunes. Storms move in quickly year-round, and the wind is common in the afternoons. After the hike, enjoy some cool downtime in Medano Creek. Tubing is popular during late May through June, where snow runoff creates perfect conditions. Don't miss the chance to take a ride down the dunes on a sand sled as well.

Laguna Loop and Coastal Trail- Point Reyes Station,CA

This trail, located north of San Francisco, is a trail that offers a bit of something for everyone. A grassland trail that follows past the coastline covered in dunes and scrub. The loop trail is five miles long and rated easy to moderate, making it perfect for even little hikers. There are about 300 feet of elevation change, mostly on the way back inland. The trail is mostly exposed, so bring lots of water. Vegetation tends to take over the trail, so long pants are recommended. You can camp at Coast Camp- a popular spot for hiking in and hiking out. There is a bathroom and water access at the camp if needed. Bikes are allowed on the Coast Trail from the north trailhead to the campground.

We recommend you begin the trail off Muddy Hollow Road, where Coast-Trail North begins. Hike south on the trail as you enjoy ocean views as you head slightly downhill on a double track. You will follow the trail southeast as you head towards Santa Maria Beach. You will see the campground near Santa Maria Creek that is reachable via the Santa Maria Beach spur trail. Don't forget to take a few swings on the giant eucalyptus tree.

Deer, raccoons, coyotes, and rabbits are frequently sighted along the trail. Take some time enjoying the water and the views of the coastline and bluffs before heading back on the Fire Lane Trail. As you head inland, the trail will slightly climb. Head left at the fork to continue onto the Laguna Trail. This trail will take you back to Muddy Hollow Road.

An alternative starting point is the Laguna Trailhead if there is no roadside parking available off Muddy Hollow Road. Note: bikes are allowed on the Coast Trail from the Coast Trail's northern trailhead near the Hostel to the Coast Campground, but no further.

Little River Canyon National Preserve-LookoutMountain, AL

With over 26 miles of trails, Little River Canyon National Preserve offers many choices and opportunities to cool off in several swimming holes. Most of the trails are short but steep and rocky as you make your way down to the river. As long as you keep your pup on a leash, they can also enjoy a cool off in the water. This area is also known as a great spot for bird watching. You can hike the YCC Loop- a 3.5 mile intermediate loop trail, the ½ mile Path to Learning Trail- an educational path detailing the ecology and geology of the area or the 16 mile De Soto Trail that connects the Little River Canyon National Preserve and DeSoto State Park. There are also miles of backcountry you can hike before visiting one of the watering holes.

The most popular swimming hole is the Hippie Hole off the Martha's Falls/Little Falls Trail. A rugged one mile trail from the parking lot takes visitors to Martha's Falls. The trail begins easy enough but becomes rooted. A descent of 100 feet takes you down to the rocky slope and down to the water. This is the kind of place you can spend the day at. Cliff jumping is also popular here.

Another popular hike is from Eberhard Point to the floor of Little River Canyon. It's a steep descent down to the floor of the canyon, making this a difficult-rated hike. It is a short 0.8 out and back with 350 feet of elevation change; it offers several places to cool off in the summer months. Cliff jumping is also popular at Eberhard Point. Be sure to keep an eye out for the Canyonland Park and Zoo ruins that was once located in the area. If the water levels are low enough, you can connect this with the Powell Trail for an additional 0.75 mile out and back with wildflowers that line the trail.

A little known swim area can be found on the Lower Two- Mile Trail. It is about a ½ hour hike down to the river to reach the swimming hole. The ½ mile hike down is steep and rocky, but the payoff is fewer crowds (if any). Many rocks are perfect for relaxing on, and a sand beach makes this an ideal cool-down spot. The climb out is steep as you climb back up with an elevation change of 164 feet over rocks that are often slippery.

Lost Lake Trail- Seward, AK

The hike to Lost Lake is a moderately rated 7-mile trek with 2,600 plus feet of elevation change. It is a part of the longer Iditarod National Historic Trail. If the 14-mile round trip distance seems a bit much, there are plenty of opportunities to camp near the lake. There is much to see and explore around the lake, including multiple glaciers and chasms. A filter and lots of water are recommended for the hike. Most hikers can complete the entire route in 6-7 hours.

The trail begins in a forest of trees at the base. The most elevation change happens as you make your way above the tree line. As you head along the trail, it will open up to views around the two-mile mark as you leave the forest for an open mountainside covered in flowers with abundant views. If the local wildlife hasn't snagged them yet, there are wild salmon berries, raspberries, and blueberries you can pick to snack on as you enjoy the views. The trail will level off at four miles as hemlock, and an often wet meadow awaits you. As you climb the ridgeline, you will be able to see your first views of the lake in the distance around the six-mile mark. As the trail heads down, you will join the Primrose Trail on the east side of the lake.

Enjoy a night camping at the lake or enjoy the beautiful waters of the lake before making your way back to the trailhead. Be aware that the lake water is quite cold, so many hikers just settle for dipping their feet in. The noise from water pushing and pulling into various coves is quite relaxing. Many visitors also like to bring a few pebbles home from the lake to remember the hike by.

While you can make the trek to the lake year-round, May- September is the recommended time frame to see wildlife (bear and marmots especially), wildflowers, mushrooms, and the change of seasons. Be aware that the trail can be quite muddy based on recent weather. Snow may be on the trail into mid-June and you will likely encounter snowmobilers in the winter, while the summer months bring lots of mountain bikers. Your pup can even join you on the adventure as long as he/she is leashed.

Rim and Gorge Trail Hike Robert H Treman State Park-Ithaca, NY

This hike has it all when it comes to waterfalls and will pass by 12 waterfalls total with a chance to even dive into the pool of the Lower Falls via a diving board. Leashed dogs can enjoy this loop but are not allowed in the swim area of Lower Falls. There is an entry fee for cars from April- November at this state park. There are bathrooms at the Old Mill, near the main entrance, and Lower Falls. Note that you may have to adhere to specific ascend and descend directions on the trails due to COVID-19 restrictions.

There are two ways to complete this hike based on whether you want to climb in the beginning or climb at the end of the hike. Park in the upper parking lot if you don't mind a climb after your swim. Park at the main entrance to get the hard work over with first. If you park at the upper parking, visit the Enfield Falls Mill (the Old Mill)- an old grain mill on the National Register of Historic Places. There is also a waterfall behind the mill.

Begin this five-mile moderate hike from the upper entrance on the Gorge Trail. You will cross a stone bridge. Keep going past the sign for the Rim Trail. Go left and follow the path to a second stone bridge. You will now enter the gorge area- a prime place for Instagram photos because of the beauty. The trail will continue as you head through the gorge area and to a third stone bridge and then down a stone staircase to its first waterfall- 12 to 15 feet high.

Continue on the path and around a few corners until you reach the highlight of the park- the 115 foot Lucifer Falls. There is an excellent viewing area of this impressive waterfall off the stone stairs. The trail will be a mix of stone and dirt now as you continue along. You can cross the wooden bridge now to meet the Rim Trail for a shorter loop if need be, but we recommend you keep going.

If you continue, the trail enters the forest before it joins back near Enfield Creek. You will pass a series of smaller waterfalls, all unique in their own way. One last staircase takes you up to the Rim Trail. Follow the path through the gate to Lower Falls. Lower Falls is a 50-foot waterfall with swim access, including a diving board.

After taking a swim and dive in Lower Falls, begin the ascent up the Rim Trail. The trail gains about 500 feet of elevation with little to no scenery. The trail will switch back and get steep as you make your way to an upper viewpoint of Lucifer Falls. Shortly after the viewpoint, you will be back at the parking lot. Visit Old Mill for the first or second time before leaving the park.

Courtney Johnson is a book author, freelance writer and teacher based in Erie, CO. Most of her days are spent chasing her 7 year old daughter on the bike trails, ski runs and up climbing routes. You can follow her adventures at: https://adventureswithmylittleray.com/.