NOV 13
ROOT + LE AF
V E G E TA R I A N R E C I P E S & SEASONAL IDEAS F L AV O R S O F AU T U M N
ROOT + LEAF
CONTENTS
10 TA B L E - T O P S T Y L I N G
21 25 35
58 67
L.A. designer Justina Blakely shares five lovely and affordable table-top designs.
NOVE M B E R 2013
FEASTS OF FALL
AUTUMN
VA N I L L A
GLUTEN-FREE
IN THE
H A R V E S T:
E X TR AC T 1 01
H O L I D AY
F A M I LY
A GUIDE TO
DESERTS
Are you ready to celebrate the flavors of fall? We share three unique recipes, full of seasonal goods perfect for the holiday gatherings to come.
SEASONAL
Follow our step-bystep guide and you will never have to choose between pure and imitation vanilla extracts again. Making your own vanilla extract recipes can be a healthy alternative to chemical-heavy, store-bought extract.
Three talented recipe developers Sara Forte, Laura Wright and Eva Kosma s sha re vegetarian recipes and Thanksgiving tradtions that they grew up with.
PRODUCE Make the most of the fall harvest. Learn about seasonal selections like carrots, squash, pumpkin, apples, pears, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, cranberries, and more.
31
FOR AG I N G & PICKING Tennessee recipe developer and writer Bethy Kirby takes us mushroom foraging deep in the forests of Nashville. And we accompany vegetarian blogger Shelly West to an Oregon orchard for apple picking.
S e a s on a l or cha r d a ppl e s ph ot og r a ph e d b y S h e l l y We st .
This time of year can be difficult for those who follow a gluten-free diet. Here are seven sweet gluten-free recipes guaranteed to delight any sweet tooth.
31 41 SPICED
TYPED & BOUND
This month’s Typed & Bound pick is Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison, a beautiful cookbook exploring our diverse plant kingdom.
This season calls for a varity of aromatic spices that are perfect for fall recipes. Learn which spices have the power to transform simple recipes into a holiday hit.
75 80 84 90 99 S H E LL ACKI N G
S AY I N G “ N O ”
N E W LY
V E G E TA B L E
GIVING
GOURDS
T O F A K E M E AT
V E G E TA R I A N
BROTH 101
THANKS
The stress of the approaching holidays is enough to make anyone want to cry or set a car on fire. Here are some side-splitting reminders to keep you relaxed through this busy time of year.
Cute names aside, most meat substitutes are processed and unhealthy. Read why you should skip the soysage and Tofurkey and how to make hearty vegetarian meals combining grains, fresh vegetables, and natural forms of protein.
Did you recently become a vegetarian, are you making the transition or are you thinking about it? Read about other vegetarians’ experiences and why they decided to make the change.
Do your holiday recipes call for vegetable broth? Make your own with this easyto-follow tutorial.
Thanksgiving is a time of gathering and sharing food with those we love. Here are ten recipes perfect for the occasion of giving thanks.
93 101 87 FLOURISHING FOODIE
FIRESIDE
Its too cold outside to throw vegetables on the grill, so here are some fall-friendly ways of preparing vegetables that will warm your belly.
In our interview with the dietician and vegetarian food writer behind the “Flourishing Foodie,” Heather Hands shares her most delectable recipes and kitchen must-haves.
FA R M & FOCUS
Crowdfunding is a new way to start an urban farm. Meet Lisa Schluder and Ryan Finch, the farmers at Raleigh City Farm in North Carolina who are providing the community with organically-grown produce and battling local food deserts.
F E A S T S of
FALL A s e r i e s o f r e c i p e s b y A N N A O ’ D AY E
Autumn bestows on us a magnif icent bountry of produce each year. Apples, sweet potatoes, leafy greens, beets, turnips, and gourds of all colors and sizes are just some of the treats to enjoy. Right in time for holiday gatherings, we’ve selected three great recipes that are sure to please your loved ones’ tastebuds.These recipes include some of the season’s most flavorful fruits and vegetables.
RIGHT
Win t e r sq u a sh pi e . Ph ot o b y Phi Tr a n .
21 | ROOT + LEAF
P E C A N F R A N G I PA N E TA R T W I T H P O A C H E D S W E E T P O TAT O B a k e Ti m e 65 m i n s Serves 4 – 6 INGREDIENTS 1 1/2 cup f lour 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons very cold butter 3 tablespoons iced water 1 egg yolk 1/2 cup shelled pecans 1/4 cup sugar zest of 1 orange 1 egg juice and rind of 1 orange 1/2 teaspoon cardamom 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 2 cloves pinch of allspice pinch of nutmeg 1 cup sugar 2 cup water
by pu l si n g f lour, suga r, a nd sa lt in a food processor. Add the butter cubes and pulse until the coarse crumbles are the size of peas. W hisk together ice water and egg yolk in a separate bowl. Add this to the food processor and pulse until the dough holds its shape, then place it onto a f loured surface and work it into a thin disk with a rolling pin. Wrap the dough tightly with plastic w rap a nd chill it in t he refrigerator for at least one hour. Next, prepare the poaching liquid by bringing the orange rind, juice, spices, and two cups of water to a boil. Then turn the heat off. Slice the sweet potatoes as thinly a s pos sible ( a bout 1/16 i nc h) . Using a metal cook ie cutter, cut leaf shapes out of the thin slices of sweet potatoes. Sometimes, this is easier if you turn the sharp edge up, and place the potato onto the edge. Roll your pastry roller over the cookie cutter. Bring your syrup back to a boil and poach the leaves for at least f ive minutes depend ing on t he thickness of your leaves. Allow the potatoes to sit in syrup while you make the frangipane paste. To prepare the tart crust, preheat the oven to 425˚F. Take out the chilled dough and place it into a tart PR E PA R E T H E C RUS T
pan (with a removable bottom) and press it into the sides. Place a small sheet of parchment paper over the dough and fill tart with pie weights or beans to prevent the dough from rising and keep the sides from shrinking down. Bake on the center rack for 10 minutes, then turn down the heat to 375˚F, remove the parchment and weights and bake for an additional 10 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven to cool. Now turn dow n your oven to 350˚F. Prepare the frangipane in your food processor by pulsing the peca ns a nd sugar for about one minute. Add the orange zest and butter, pulsing until its well combined. Add the egg and continue to pulse the mixture. Then pour the frangipane into the tart crust. Drain the sweet potato leaves from the syrup and arrange them in a circular fashion on top of the tart. (The leaves should be ver y soft at this point. They will dr y out with baking so do not hesitate to cook them a bit more if necessary.) Place three pecan halves in the center of the tart. Drizzle two tablespoons of the poaching liqu id over t he sweet potatoes and bake the tart in the oven for 25 minutes. Rotate it, then cover it with foil and ba ke for an additional 25 minutes.
F E A S T S O F FA L L
ROA S T B E E TRO OT B R U S C H E T TA W I T H GARLIC AIOLI B a k e Tim e 6 0 m in s Serves 4 – 6 I NGR E DI E N T S 3 bunches baby beetroot 2 bulbs garlic 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/2 bunch thyme sprigs sea salt and black pepper, to taste 1/2 cup walnuts 1 loaf sour dough bread 1 quantity, roast garlic aioli
ga r l i c h e a d s; r oa st be e t r o ot br u sch e t t a w it h ga r l i c a i ol i . Ph ot os b y Pe t r in a Tin sl a y. R I G H T pi e c r u st; r ose m a r y pot a t o k a l e t a r t . Ph ot os b y C h r i st a T h omps on . A B OV E
23 | ROOT + LEAF
DIVE INTO the vibrant winter colours of purple and rich gold with these super baby beets. This makes a lovely light meal or snack. Preheat your oven to 375˚F. Trim the beetroot, leaving a small amount of the stems attached. Halve any large beetroot so that they are all similar sizes. Place the beetroot and garlic in a roasting pan and drizzle over the oil and red wine vinegar. Sprinkle with half the thyme sprigs and season with salt and pepper.
Roast in the oven for 40– 50 minutes or until the beetroot are tender when tested with a skewer. Sprinkle over the walnuts and return to the oven for another 10 minutes to roast the nuts. Chargrill or toast slices of sourdough bread. Serve with the roasted beetroot, garlic and walnuts. Garnish the dish with the remaining thyme sprigs and a dollop of roast garlic aioli. To prepare the aioli, place six cloves of the roasted garlic in to a motar and pestle. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt f lakes and crush the garlic and salt into a paste. Add in one egg yolk, pound and stir until the egg, garlic and salt are completely combined. Gradually drizzle in one cup of light olive oil while continuing to stir with the pestle until all of the oil has been incorporated. Season to taste.
F E A S T S O F FA L L
R O S E M A R Y P O TAT O K A L E TA R T B a k e Tim e 6 0 m in s O n e 9 - in ch t a r t I NGR E DI E N T S 4 small rose potatoes, sliced thin 2 sprigs rosemary, remove leaves 1 spig rosemary, finely chopped olive oil 1/2 cup parmesan cheese 1 bunch kale, stemmed, chopped 1/2 yellow onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup ricotta cheese salt and pepper 1/2 pie dough recipe 2 1/2 cups flour 8 ounces (two sticks) unsalted butter pinch of salt and sugar 1/4-1/2 cup ice water
FOR THE PIE CRUST, in a food processor or quickly using your fingertips, combine the f lour, sugar, salt and butter until the chunks of butter are broken down to the size of peas and the f lour feels like wet sand. Add the first 1/4 cup of water and mix until the dough comes together easily. It’s too dry if it immediately clumps apart. Add two tablespoons of water at a time. Bring the dough into two balls and drop them on top of two sheets of plastic wrap. Loosely wrap up the ball and press down, smoothing the ball into a disc about an inch thick. Place them in the refrigerator for 30 minutes while you prepare the rest of the recipe. Prehe at you r oven to 4 25˚F. Unwrap and place one of the doughs on a well f loured surface. Sprinkle with f lour, and roll it out with a rolling pin (turning often to get an even thickness) until the dough is about a 1/4 inch thick and about 11 inches wide. Place the dough into a tart pan (with a removable bottom) and press in the sides. Trim off the top of the dough, place a small sheet of parchment paper on top of the bottom of the tart, and f ill with
pie weights or beans to prevent the dough from rising and keep the sides from shrinking down. Bake on the center rack for 10 minutes, then turn down the heat to 375˚F, remove the parchment and weights and bake for an additional 10 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven. Turn the oven back up to 425˚F. In a large sauce pan, melt the butter and add onions. Cook for 10– 15 minutes. Add garlic, cooking for one minute, then add kale. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of chili flake. Cook this for 10 minutes, until the kale is wilted. Remove the pan from heat and spoon its contents into the tart crust. Add the ricotta and chopped rosemary. Top with a layer of thinly sliced potatoes. Drizzle with olive oil (you want the potatoes well coated, as this will make them crisp) and top it with rosemary leaves and parmesan cheese. Sprinkle some salt and pepper on top. Bake the tart for 20 minutes and then broil for one minute, or until golden brown and crispy on top.
ROOT + LEAF | 24
AUTU M N HARVEST A GUIDE TO SE ASONA L PRODUCE B y C L A R A D O N N E L LY
We already know the importance of eating organic and locally (and hyperlocally). Its also very important to eat what’s in season, but doing this usually requires some research. Are you confused by multiple messages about what produce to eat this season and where to buy it ? We’ve created a guide for eating seasonal food and have it all figured out. Here’s what you really need to know. a seasoned local food buyer, its For most of us, the taste of the food we buy is every bit as a good idea to understand the benefits of buying, cooking important as the cost, if not more so. When food is not in seaand eating according to what it is season. So before we delve son locally, it’s either grown in a hothouse or shipped in from into autumn’s rich bounty, let us first answer the question, other parts of the world, and both affect the taste. Compare “What are the benefits of eating produce that is in season?” a dark red, vine-ripened tomato still warm from the summer We’re going to focus on the top five benefits—cost, taste, sun with a winter hothouse tomato that’s barely red, somewhat variety, nutritional value, and ease, although there are cer- mealy, and lacking in f lavor. When transporting crops, they tainly more. must be harvested early and refrigerated so they don’t rot Let’s begin with cost. When produce is in season locally, the during transport. They may not ripen as effectively as they relative abundance of the crop usually makes it less expensive. would in their natural environment and as a result they don’t Think of the packaged herbs you see in a grocery store during develop their full f lavor. the winter — a few (usually limp) sprigs of basil, all too fre- “Foods lose f lavor just as they lose moisture when they are quently with black speckles and moldy leaves, cost about $3 held. Fresh, locally harvested foods have their full, whole per half ounce. In contrast, the gorgeous, bright green, crisp f lavors intact, which they release to us when we eat them,” basil you see in both grocery stores and at farmers markets explains Susan Herrmann Loomis, owner of On Rue Tatin in the summer when basil is in season often sells for as little Cooking School in France and author of numerous cookbooks. as $1–2 for an enormous bunch. It’s the basic law of supply “Foods that are chilled and shipped lose f lavor at every step of and demand, and when crops are in season you’ll be rewarded the way — chilling cuts their flavor, transport cuts their flavor, financially by purchasing what’s growing at that time. being held in warehouses cuts their f lavor.” It’s difficult to W HETHER OR NOT YOU AR E
AUTUMN HARVEST
sw e e t pot a t o e s A B OV E a ppl e s; b u t t e r n u t sq u a sh; k a l e ; pumpk in s; pe a r s; B r u sse l s s pr o u t s . Ph ot os b y Ma r c u s He a t h. LEFT
ROOT + LEAF | 26
AUTUMN HARVEST
be enthusiastic about eating five servings a day of f lavorless fruits and vegetables. But Jenny Morris from Littleton, CO is a big fan of eating locally grown fruit in season. “I’d stand in line for one of those peaches from the farmers market,” she says, referring to the succulent peaches harvested mid-summer from Colorado’s western slope. Many people are surprised to find that a wide variety of crops are harvested in the fall (squash, apples, endive, garlic, greens, figs, pears) and winter (citrus, radishes, leeks) in addition to products that we readily associate with the summer like sweet peas, corn, peaches, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, and green beans. To learn what’s harvested seasonally in your area, go to www.localharvest.org to find farmers markets near you. According to Brian Halweil, author of Eat Here: Homegrown Pleasures in a Global Supermarket, “If you harvest something early so that
it can endure a long distance shipping experience, it’s not going to have the full complement of nutrients it might have had.” In addition, transporting produce sometimes requires irradiation (zapping the produce with a burst of radiation to kill germs) and preservatives (such as wax) to protect the produce which is subsequently refrigerated during the trip. While no definitive study quantifies the impact of these treatments, Halweil says there is good reason to believe that eating local is really the safer option. Loomis shares her concern and adds, “We have become terribly cavalier about quality, flavor and texture.” She prefers to buy her produce locally, and preferably from a farmer she knows. Because of limited growing seasons in most regions, the truth is its virtually impossible to eat locally and in season 100 percent of the time. So what’s your best bet? If possible, grow it and pick it yourself—you’ll know exactly what went into growing those
Cooking with seasonal produce allows you to prepare f lavorful, healthy meals easily with the freshest fruits and vegetables farms and local markets have to offer.
se a s on a l pr od u ce R I G H T pu r pl e ca r r ot s . Ph ot os b y Mo w i e K a y. A B OV E
27 | ROOT + LEAF
fruits and vegetables and you can enjoy them at their peak the day they are harvested. Growing seasonal produce on your own property or on a community garden plot is ideal, but not always possible. You can visit a local farmers market on a frequent basis or join a Community Supported Agriculture ( CSA ) farm. Many CSA s even deliver the weekly harvest to convenient distribution locations or right to your front door. While it might not always be possible to purchase your seasonal produce locally, the next best thing is to purchase what’s in season somewhere else, and hopefully that’s not very far away.
w AUTUMN HARVEST
NOW TH AT YOU K NOW the benef its of buying and cooking seasonal produce, here is what to look for this fall:
APPLES Peak Season // September–October Buying Tips // Apples should be firm and without bruises. Storage // Store apples in a cool place or in your refrigerator. Since apples release gases that can cause other produce to overripen, they should be kept in a separate crisper drawer. Preparation & Cooking // The skin is the healthiest part of the apple, so keep them unpeeled when possible for the maximum benefit. Apples can be made into sauces, diced and added to salads, and baked into desserts. Different apples are better suited for different uses, so try to get the specific type of apple that your recipe calls for. Apples start browning as soon as you cut into them, so avoid cutting them long before using them. BEETS
Storage // Brussels sprouts can last several days if they are kept refrigerated in an open container. If you buy them on the stalk, remove them before refrigerating. Preparation & Cooking // Brussels sprouts taste best roasted, but you can also steam or slice and saute them. Cut off the surface of the stem end and peel off any wilted leaves before preparing them. CAB BAG E Peak Season // November–April Buying Tips // Heads of cabbage should be firm. A few blemishes on the outside are okay since you can remove those leaves. Storage // Keep whole cabbage refrigerated in a plastic bag for about up to two weeks. Shredded cabbage lasts several days. Preparation & Cooking // Remove the hard outer leaves and cut out the white core before preparing. Cabbage can be eaten raw, shredded, steamed, boiled, and stir-fried.
Peak Season // Fall–spring
CARROTS
Buying Tips // Beets should be firm and round, not wilted or soft.
Peak Season // Late fall–early spring
Storage // If your beets still have the leaves attached, cut them off and store them separately. Both the beetroot and the leaves should be stored in the refrigerator. The roots will last for up to three weeks.
Buying Tips // Carrots should be firm and brightly colored.
Preparation & Cooking // Keep the skin on when cooking beets. This helps the beets retain their f lavor. You can peel the skin off after they have cooked and cooled. Beet juice will stain, so make sure to protect your cutting board and other surfaces with wax paper. Beet leaves are also edible and can be prepared like other leafy greens.
Storage // Carrots can last for several weeks in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Preparation & Cooking // Carrots are quite versatile and can be used in both savory and sweet recipes.
BROCCOLI Peak Season // October–March Buying Tips // Look for broccoli crowns with compact buds. They should not be loose or have any yellow f lowers on them. Storage // Broccoli should last approximately three days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Preparation & Cooking // Broccoli can be steamed, roasted, or eaten raw. BRUSSELS SPROUTS Peak Season // October–December Buying Tips // Brussels sprouts should be firm and green.
ROOT + LEAF | 28
AUTUMN HARVEST
CAULIFLOWE R Peak Season // September–June Buying Tips // Look for compact, firm f lorets. Storage // Caulif lower can last about one week if kept refrigerated in a plastic bag. Preparation & Cooking // Cauliflower is commonly broken into f lorets and roasted, steamed, or served raw in a salad, but it can also be mashed, pureed, or even made into a crust or rice using a food processor or grater.
Preparation & Cooking // You will only need the white and light green parts of the “neck” of the leek, so slice off and discard the top and the white root end. Dirt commonly collects between the leaves, so thoroughly wash your leeks before preparing them. One method is to slice the leek as directed, then place the slices in a large, deep bowl or container filled with cold water. Separate the slices into individual pieces with your hands, then swish them around to loosen any dirt. The dirt will sink. Remove the clean leeks by skimming the surface with a slotted spoon. PEARS
CRANBERRIES
Peak Season // Late fall–winter
Peak Season // October–December
Buying Tips // Pears should be firm, but not hard. Pears that are too hard are not ripe, but those that are too soft are mushy.
Buying Tips // Cranberries should be plump and firm, with a deep red color. Storage // Cranberries should keep in the refrigerator for about one month, or they can be frozen for up to a year. Preparation & Cooking // Pick through your cranberries before using them. Discard any mushy or discolored berries, and rinse the rest. Cranberries are very tart, so sweeter fruits or sugar are typically added to balance out the tartness. Dried cranberries can be use in baked goods. KALE Peak Season // December–February Buying Tips // Look for leaves that are green, not yellow, and avoid kale that is wilted or that has insect damage. Storage // Get rid of any excess water, then keep the kale in a loose plastic bag in the refrigerater for up to ten days. Preparation & Cooking // When ready to use, remove the stems and tough ribs, and slice, shred, or tear the leaves. Kale is often cooked because it’s bitter when raw, but you can massage the sliced leaves for a few minutes to tenderize it and reduce the bitter f lavor. Kale can also be torn, seasoned and placed in the oven to make kale chips. LEEKS
Storage // Pears can be stored in a paper bag at room temperature for a few days, or until ripe. Once they start to ripen, you can put them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator to slow down the process. Preparation & Cooking // Pears are delicious poached, tossed in a salad, or made into a dessert, and they also pair very well with cheese. Pears will start to discolor once you cut them, so do not cut them until you are ready to use them. To avoid discoloration, you can toss sliced pears with diluted lemon juice. P O M E G R A N AT E S Peak Season // September–January Buying Tips // Look for deep red pomegranates that feel heavy for their size. They should have unbroken skin and no mold on the crown. Storage // Pomegranates can be left on the counter for up to one month. You don’t need to put them in the refrigerator. Preparation & Cooking // Only the seeds are eaten from the pomegranate; the rest should be discarded. Remove the seeds using a pomegranate deseeder, or if you don’t have one, cut the pomegranate in half, immerse it in a big bowl of water, and pull the seeds from the rest of the fruit. PUMPKINS
Peak Season // September–April
Peak Season // October–February
Buying Tips // Leeks should be firm, not soft or wilted. The top should be bright green. Since the tops are discarded, superficial blemishes are okay.
Buying Tips // The exterior should be unblemished and tough and the gourd should feel heavy for its size.
Storage // Leeks can last for one week or more in a loose plastic bag in the refrigerator.
29 | ROOT + LEAF
Storage // Pumpkins can be kept for about one month in a cool, dry location. Once cut, you can wrap any extra slices tightly in plastic and keep them in the refrigerator for several days.
AUTUMN HARVEST
Preparation & Cooking // Pumpkin makes a great pie, but it can also be diced and added to soups, salads, and casseroles, or made into breads, custards, cakes, and other desserts. You can also rinse the seeds and roast them as a snack. Make sure to wash the outside of the pumpkin before you cut into it. S W E E T P O TAT O E S Peak Season // November–December Buying Tips // Sweet potatoes should be firm and the skin should be free of cuts, mold, and decay. Storage // Sweet potatoes should be stored in a dark, cool location, but not refrigerated. Preparation & Cooking // Sweet potatoes have a multitude of uses in both sweet and savory dishes, especially casseroles, soups and pies, and you can also make chips with them. Wash and scrub the outside of the potato before you bake or cut it. TURNIPS Peak Season // September–April Buying Tips // Look for turnips that are small, round, and firm. Storage // Turnips can last about two weeks in a cool location or keep them refrigerated in a tightly closed plastic bag for a week. Preparation & Cooking // Turnips can be used as a lower carb replacement for potatoes in some recipes. When pureed, it makes a delicious, creamy soup. The leaves can also be cooked and are full of nutrients. WINTER SQUASH Peak Season // October–December Buying Tips // The exterior should be unblemished and tough and the squash should feel heavy for its size. Storage // Winter squashes will typically last several weeks in a cool, dark place. Don’t refrigerate winter squash unless it has been cut. Preparation & Cooking // Many winter squashes have a tough outer layer that needs to be removed. For others, like acorn, you can leave the outer layer on and roast the squash to soften the peel and make it edible. Wash the outside of any winter squash until it’s clean before cutting into it. Different types of squashes have different uses. The insides of spaghetti squash are long and stringy and can be used like pasta noodles. Acorn squashes are often baked and stuffed. Butternut squash is great cubed and roasted or made into soup. A B OV E
pom e g r a n a t e ph ot og r a ph e d b y Mo w i e K a y.
ROOT + LEAF | 30
FO R AG I N G & P I C K I N G G AT H E R I NG I N T H E OU T D O OR S B y J E S S I C A WA L S H a n d S I M O N F R A Z I E R
Harvesting wild food is the oldest and most basic subsistence activity of humankind, but today we live in a world where these skills are almost lost. Foraging is the missing link in modern civilized cultures—it is this direct physical connection, in the form of sustenance, that brings us to a deeper appreciation and understanding of the natural world around us. hosteri pris inam in pri inventem interfic moricae nonsis pertere etiliquam tarbis clum teri pris, cus vatum ne nerum Paliusa tremquam labefectuus seare a must for any aspiring forager. BETH KIR BY of “Local Milk” is the W I L D furis M U Sademus. HROOM S natum Ediente rcepera? Duciem, e busy woman these days. Besides run- You can find out a lot about a mushWith Beth Kirby L o ca l Mi l kB l o g.c o m
w il d m u sh r o om s for a ge d f r om t h e for e st s s o u t h of Na sh vil l e , T N. Ph ot o b y B e t h K ir b y. R I G H T B e t h K ir b y ca r r i e s a ba sk e t in t o t h e w o od s in se a r ch of w il d m u sh r o om s for Wil d Mu sh r o om , Fe nn e l a n d D a n c in g Fe r n G a l e t t e . Ph ot o b y R ebe k k a S e a l e . A B OV E
31 | ROOT + LEAF
ning a successful blog, she works as a full time food writer, photographer and recipe developer. “I’m not a mycologist (a mushroom scientist), but I am fascinated by the wild mushrooms that grow in the deciduous forests around here.” On a warm fall afternoon, just south of Nashville, we drove deep into the forest with Beth to accompany her on a mushroom forage. She tells R + L , “I have been foraging for my own mushrooms for a little over two years now after having taken an intensive course under a local mycologist. As a cook, its a rewarding practice. Using foraged mushrooms lends wonderful texture and beautiful hues to a recipe. There is a lot of magic in the deep wooded hollows of Tennessee.” While we scan every tree trunk in the lush forest, Beth cheerfully offers up advice on foraging. “The golden r u le is t hat you shou ld never eat a wild mushroom without being absolutely sure that it’s safe. A relatively small number of wild mushroom varieties can be safely eaten, so classes under an expert
room t hrough obser vation. You should ask yourself ‘Where and how is it growing?’ When you dig up a mushroom, be sure to examine the base to see if its straight or bulbous. When you turn the mushrooms over, you will see that many have gills underneath the cap, while others have pores, teeth, or coral branches. A ll these characteristics help you identify what kind of fungus you are dealing with. Truthfully, I live by my mushroom field guide. Its an absolute necessity!” Beth pulls the small book from her back pocket. “There are countless field guides out there, but the one I use is Mushrooms of the Southeastern United States because its region-specif ic. Knowing your local f lora is particular y importa nt when hu nt ing mu shrooms.” Beth explains other items to have handy while foraging. “A basket, a box of wax paper or some wax paper bags, a knife, a 1OX hand lens, and a compass are all good things to have.” We come upon a rosette-like cluster of wild mushrooms attached to a branching stalk growing near the
“USING FORAGED MUSHROOMS LENDS WONDERFUL TEXTURE AND BEAUTIFUL HUES TO A RECIPE. THERE IS A LOT OF MAGIC IN THE DEEP WOODED HOLLOWS OF TENNESSEE.” base of a tree. Beth kneels down to examine them. She identifies them as “Hen of the Woods” mushrooms. She opens her guide book to show that she has positiviely identif ied them. “These are some of my favorite! The Hen of the Woods variety is used as a medicinal fungus in China, to help alleviate pain, arthritis and stomach aliments. They grow well in Tennessee and are safe to eat. Let’s take some of these with us.” Beth carefully demonstrates how to cut them free. “Cut it about a 1/4 inch above the soil, as not to disturb or damage the mycelium underneath. Its important to never over-harvest, so take only one out of every three mushrooms in any one area and leave the rest alone.” Over the course of the afternoon, we help Bet h gat her t wo ot her species in addition to Hen of the Woods— Oyster, a common variety and Sweet Tooth mushrooms, a sweet variety. “When I get home I will set these in a cool, dry place for about three days to get the moisture out. They will be perfect for my new recipe, Wild Mushroom, Fennel and Dancing Fern Galette.” //
FORAGING & PICKING
ORCHARD APPLES W i t h S h e l l y We s t Ve g e t a r i a nVe n t u r e s .c o m
We st’ s S w e e t Ma pl e A ppl e B a r s . To f in d t h e r e c ipe vi sit Ve ge t a r i a nVe n t u r e s .com . Ph ot o b y S h e l l y We st . R I G H T S h e l l y We st in s pe c t s a n a ppl e t r e e in se a r ch of t h e a ppl e s for a n e w r e c ipe . Ph ot o b y G r a ce C ol l in s . A B OV E
33 | ROOT + LEAF
SHELLY W EST of the popular blog “Veget a ria n Vent u re s” c er t a i n ly lives up to her blog’s name. By day she works for an indie-rock music label in Portland, OR and spends evenings creating outstanding vegetarian recipes. Her love of travel has inspired some of her finest recipes. “When I go camping, I get a lot of ideas from the plants, color and scents that nature has to offer. I create a lot of recipes on road trips too t ha nk s to t he end less a r ray of m a rket s, e ater ie s a nd d iners a long t he Western hig hways. Nothing is more fun than
eating your way across a place ! ” We could not agree with Shelly more. Her sense of adventure is contagious, making her the perfect guide for a Saturday afternoon apple picking. Shelly took R + L to her new favorite orchard in Hood River County near Portland. “Since becoming a vegetarian about 10 years ago, I have become really dedicated to learning how to cook for myself. The blog keeps me unbelievably motivated. I am constantly seeking a healthier (and more delicious) cooking routine, so frequenting orchards is certainly a part of that, especially for cooking seasonally. Apple picking is a sign that the air has become crisp and the days shorter. We found this gem of a farm this fall. It’s filled with dozens of apple f lavors.” When we arrive to the orchard, it is clear that Shelly is in her element. She inspects the trees carefully, examining the tree branches and leaves as much as the apples. “The great thing about picking is that anyone can learn how to do it. You do not have to be an expert farmer. You just need to know what to look for and what you like too.” Shelly explains the picking technique that she has learned from six years in the orchards. “It is important to know when the apples are ripe. Color and ease of picking are two indicators of ripeness. Most apples fall to the ground when they become ripe if not picked first. Also be aware that some apples will fall off the tree before they have reached a state of ripeness if the tree has been shaken or moved by wind. Be sure to carefully examine any apples you gather from under the trees. Some will be safe to take with you and other are damaged by insects or animals. I recommend
leaving damaged ones alone. Apples still on the tree that are ripe enough to pick will come off easily in your hand.” She demonstrates this while gently popping apples off of their stems. “You do want to be gentle. Try not to just pull the branch really hard. Simply grip the apple and pull it slightly to one side. And if you are picking from a group of apples that have grown together in a bunch, it helps to grasp two apples at a time and pull them gently away from each other. This will guarantee that the entire bunch won’t fall to the ground. I always think about handling the apples like eggs. Be careful as you pick them and as you place them in your basket, otherwise you’ll end up with all bruised fruit!” W hile gathering apples, Shelly shares tips on choosing fall apple varieties. “Some people enjoy whatever apples the season has to offer. Others have specif ic preferences of apples they prefer based on f lavor, crispness, shelf life, etc. If you spend a lot of time in the kitchen, I think its good to have an idea of which apples are which. As far as fall apples, Braeburns, the ones we are picking today, are my favorite. They have a perfect balance of sweet and tart, not to mention a lovely coloring. They are ideal for baking. Other fall apples like Cortlands, Jonagolds and Cameos are juicy, delicious and go well in any recipe calling for apples. I usually use Gala and Fuji apples raw. They make a great addition to sa lads due to their crispness, sweet f lavor and thin skin.” Shelly delicately cleans a newly-picked Braeburn apple with her apron and bites into it, smiling as she gazes across the orchard. “There is nothing better than this.” //
“APPLE PICKING IS A SIGN THAT THE AIR HAS BECOME CRISP AND THE DAYS SHORTER. WE FOUND THIS GEM OF A FARM THIS FALL. IT’S FILLED WITH DOZENS OF APPLE FLAVORS.”
VANILL A E X TR AC T 1 01 PU R E E X T R AC T M A DE AT HOM E B y DA R L A JA M E SO N
Homemade vanilla extract is prized for its full, rich, complex flavor and an incredibly smooth aroma. Its extract is truly in a different league than what can be procured from most grocery stores. The difference between pure and imitation extracts is simple. Pure vanilla extract is made from vanilla beans, while imitation extract utilizes processed flavors and chemicals.
apples; TOP RIGHT Butternut squash; MIDDLE kale; MIDDLE RIGHT pumpkins; BOTTOM LEFT pears; BOTTOM RIGHT Brussels sprouts. TOP LEFT LEFT
VA N I L L A E X T R A C T 1 0 1
MAKING VANILLA EXTR ACT at
home is fun and easy. Simply take five whole vanilla beans, split lengthwise and add to eight ounces of 35%+ alcohol. Any type of alcohol can be used, but bottom shelf vodka is most common because it will not add any additional flavors to the extract. Bourbon, rum and brandy can also be used. After eight short weeks the extract is ready to use in any dish. What makes homemade vanilla extract so much better than store bought versions? First, you have control over the quality and type of vanilla used in the extract. Using premium-grade vanilla beans will provide signif ic a nt ly bet ter f lavor and aroma than commercially produced extracts. If you are not sure where to find premium-grade vanilla beans, try your local farmers market or specialty produce market. You may come across various kinds of vanilla beans in your search. It is possible to make extract from different types of vanilla beans. Each will yield a slightly different result based on its own unique f lavor.
You can control the type and quality of vanilla used in the extract. Using premium-grade vanilla beans will provide significantly better flavor and aroma than commercially produced extracts.
P U R E VA N I L L A E X T R A C T P r e p Ti m e 12 m in s To t a l Ti m e 8 w e e k s I NGR E DI E N T S 8 vanilla beans 1 cup vodka
Slice the vanilla beans in half lengthwise. Using the tip of the paring knife or a spoon, scrape out the seeds and transfer to a small saucepan. Cut the empty bean pods into one-inch pieces and add them to the saucepan. Add the vodka, cover and cook over medium-low heat until the mixture is hot and steaming, about two minutes. (Do not open the lid while the pot is over the f lame or the alcohol will ignite.) Pour the mixture into a jar with a tight-fitting lid and let cool to room temperature. Cover with the lid and
L E F T V a nil l a
Do you prefer a bold and smokey f lavor? If so, try Mexican vanilla beans. Rich and creamy? Use Madagascar Vanilla Beans. Floral aroma and unique cherry-chocolate? Venture to the Tahitian vanilla beans. Each type is excellent for homemade vanilla extract. You can even blend various varieties together. The potent floral, fruity, cherry-like notes of the Tahitian variety blend wonderfully with the nutty-chocolate character of the Bourbon varieties. After eight weeks the vast majority of the extraction process is complete. At this point the the vanilla is ready to use and the vanilla beans can be removed. If the vanilla beans are left in the jar, the flavor will continue to evolve (just be sure the beans are always submerged in alcohol).
store in a dark place for six to eight weeks (longer for enhanced f lavor), shaking the jar gently once a week. Line a f ine-mesh strainer with two coffee filters or two layers of cheesecloth, and place over a liquid measuring cup. Strain the vanilla through the f ilters, then transfer from the measuring cup to a clean jar with a tight-fitting lid. The vanilla extract can be stored indefinitely at room temperature.
be a n s ph ot og r a ph e d b y Ja m i e L ot h r i d ge .
ROOT + LEAF | 36