HOW ANIME INFLUENCED MENSWEAR Editor: Sandra Hilltomt
If you grew up in the late 90s and early 00s like me, it's safe to say that Cartoon Network and Anime was a big part of your childhood. You were probably at the playground, competing with your blade blade or trading Pokemon cards and anxiously seeking for that rare Prerelease Raichu while you were trying to "catch 'em all" on your Gameboy. For me, that was the extent of my anime experience — a simple dipped toe in the pool. Others, on the other hand, have completely absorbed themselves in anime and Japanese culture. As a result of that, we're seeing new fashion styles and references mirroring this era.
Akira film cover Soure: cinemadelsilenzio.it
Before we go any further, let me give you the lowdown on what anime actually is. Oxford defines Anime as, “ A style of animation originating in Japan, characterized by vibrant characters in action-packed stories, frequently with strange or futuristic ideas. Typically aimed at adults as well as children."
Nostalgia is a strong emotion that flows through our blood. The past, like the future, is an elusive dream. As a child growing up in the early 00s, one of the highlights of my upbringing was watching the Saturday morning cartoon lineup on the tv. The cartoons were Samurai Jack, American Dragon, Blade Blade, Sailor Moon, Ben 10 and Pucca, among many others, these were top tier shows. However, before my time, many Americans dubbed anime shows that were imported in the late 1980s, with shows like Akira, NANA, Voltron, Vampire D hunter, Dragon Ball Z and Robotech being translated and re-cut for American audiences. Katsuhiro Otomo's "Akira" served as an entry point for Westerners into the realm of Japanese animation long before the Marvel gave the green light for niche pop culture titles to infiltrate the mainstream. ‘’Akira is set in a dystopian Neo-Tokyo that was built after WWIII, the cyber-punk anime tells the story of disaffected youth, corruption, secret government experimentations, annihilation and resurrection.’’ ashadedviewonfashion.com The frantic cyberpunk animation, which debuted in Japan on July 15, 1988, demonstrated that cartoons could address wider societal themes across cultures. Around this time was when the love and admiration for anime began outside of Japan in the west. Millennials and Gen-Zers now reflect the styles and references of the tv-shows they grew up with. As they are the main group of people that bring the new ideas and proposals at their jobs in industries like fashion.
But did anime influence a generation of rebells? Yes, since there has been an eruption of ties between what may appear to be two polar different realms — anime and high fashion since the late 1990s. There is a definite social class divide in the world of high fashion, since desirable designer products are frequently perceived or experienced as a representation of one's higher status. Anime, on the other hand, has the ability to connect with a wide spectrum of consumers on a personal and emotional level. Japanese shjo magazines acted as an alternative to ‘’normie culture’’ even before Supreme and 'Akira’ was a collaboration, especially for American youth growing up in the suburbs. Ai Yazawa, a Japanese artist, introduced the tv-show NANA as the initial goth girlfriend at the turn of the millennium: Nana Osaki, a 21-year-old punkgirl, appeared as the protagonist of NANA in serialized shjo and josei manga magazines (aimed towards young females). With her disheveled black bob, smudged makeup, and wine-hued lipstick, Osaki stood out amongst her peers. The second protagonist of the show is Ren Hanjo. Described as highly attractive, he has short black hair that is spiked up and dark brown eyes. He's rather tall and appears lanky, yet having a powerful chest. He constantly wears a silver padlock around his neck, which was given to him and locked by Nana. His outfits are easy to imitate but the aesthetic around Ren and his seductive and mysterious character is something that most people wish they had, something incredibly desired by most animefans. Ediotr: Sandra Hilltomt
On a more personal and nostalgic level, Osaki depicted the type of misfit girl who would frighten but inspire real-life teens – those obsessed with balancing their outward self-expression with social acceptability, into being envious and attentive. These film and television shows bundled into VHS tapes and posted to bootleg video websites were really that stuff made for millennials. More precisely, anime like Nana provided an eager Generation Y with something aesthetically uplifting whenever reality let us down in our minds and closets. As mentioned before, Akira was one of the earlier anime tv-shows that inspired the millennials, among them american producer, rapper, and fashion designer Ye (Kanye West). Born 1977 in Atlanta georgia, Ye watched and got inspired by Akira in every way possible. Ever since the beginning of his musical career, Ye used references from the tv show in his creations. The earliest example is his music video for ‘’Stronger’’ and most lately a jacket from his collaboration with GAP. It completely imitates the costume of the biker-gang leader character (Akira). LEFT: BIKER-GANG LEADER KANEDA/AKIRA BY KATSUHIRO OTOMO (1988) RIGHT: KANYE WEST/DONDA LISTENING EVENT (2021) Source: youtube.com
KANYE WEST "STRONGER " MUSIC VIDEO VS SCENE FROM AKIRA Source: youtube.com
Campain poster for Surpreme FW 17 ''Supreme has worked with manga artist Katsuhiro Otomo on a collection featuring original artwork from his manga series AKIRA''. Source: designscene.net
INTERVIEWING QHRIS MAGSINO Ediotr: Sandra Hilltomt
Qhris Magsino works as a creative at swedish luxury brand Byredo. He works with their ''Byproduct'' and on Special Projects. When assigned this project to write about modern subcultures i immediately thought about Qhris and sent him a dm askung him if he would like to be a part of it. His response was ''Cute! You had me at subculture and anime and masculinity - interesting!'' Let's do it! S- Hello Qhris! It is an honor to have you be a part of my magazine project. I have followed your career and Instagram for well over 7 years and always found your style inspiring and refreshing! Let's start with a simple question, ‘’What are your key garments/accessories?’’ Q- I really like hands so I would say rings that I have been wearing for 10 years straight. Without them I feel naked. S- Gothic Anime is the vibe I get from your instagram. Have you always been into this subculture/aesthetic or is it something that has grown over time? Q- For me - I've always lived my life in a blend, so it's always been prominent in some ways. In some periods of my life it's more clear and sometimes more subtle, but never without (the inspiration of anime). S- Which anime tv-shows/characters inspire your style and why? Q- I’ve always loved the elegance of Vampire D hunter, or the realism of Ren Honjo from Nana. The characters just speak to me. I see myself in them. S- What are your views on the male body and masculinity in general in terms of the (gothic) anime style? And could it be true to the way you feel perhaps about yourself? Q- I've always been connected to androgyn - or (liked) almost alien tall and lanky lean muscular (shapes). For me masculine and feminine is an energy and the ultimate is a balance of both!
Qhris Magsino Source: instagram @ qhrismagsino Ren Hanjo Source: crunchyroll.com
S- What are (in your opinion) the key points that makes this subculture so interesting and fun to be and feel a part of? Q- I just think that it's a very broad source of inspiration in all aspects. Everything is always highly detailed & balanced. The silhouettes are also really beautiful.
Source: instagram @ qhrismagsino
Source: Pinterest
Vampire Hunter D Source: bloody-disgusting.com
Source: instagram @ qhrismagsino Edward scissorhands 1990
S- Apart from anime, clear references on your instagram are super villains like The Crow and The Joker. What is it that you find so fascinating about them? Q- I've always had a thing for outcasts in general. When it comes to the joker i think it's the relatability aspect in the sense of a kind man trying to do right in a sick world and to finally get pushed to the edge. That feeling of freedom and rebellion to just say ‘’fuck it’’ and lose your self to your other side and that transformation I think it speaks to a-lot of peoples subconsciousness. In the case of the Crow it's about death and vengeance for love. Someone taking away your life and the one thing you love and you receiving a second chance to punish the evil so it's more of being anti hero then a villain. S- To conclude - Do you think that this subculture has challenged/changed gender roles within or outside of the community? Q- I don't know, some of the most powerful beings are female or male so I guess it doesn’t depict or push a society narrative, it's free form those borders but then again, it all depends on the creator so I cant generalize. For me personally it's about subhumaning your desire to be something completely else that is what’s interesting.
The Unexpected Connection Anime/Manga Culture and High Fashion There are mainly two forms of popular Anime influencing fashion. The first is more simply cosplay (costume playup), with fans dressing up as their favorite characters. This covers people dressed in capes, robes, amour, as well as other unusual attire. On the other side, there are fans that dress up like their favorite anime characters, either with an accessory or with everyday streetwear items such as Converse, T-shirts, caps, ties, and so on. The latter form is more of an inspirational for personal style for people who feel as if they belong to the subculture. As fashionable as it is becoming in Japan, anime influenced fashion is encountering some major blowback. Many people consider that anime attire goes against traditional Japanese culture. However, it is easy for anime fans to recognize other anime fans when they see others wearing an outfit or utilizing an item portraying their favorite program or character. As a result, it aids in socializing with other people who share your interests. That can never be a negative thing!
Louis Vuitton, have gone all-in on animeinspired fashion. Bold hues, eccentric designs, and showy ensembles have been the buzz of the fashion world. From opening a Louis Vuitton presentation with the themesong from the anime film Ghost in the Shell - to Prada's animeinspired menswear line - fashion has come a long way. Let's take a closer look at these brands collections.
Gucci x Doraemon Gucci released a Doraemon capsule collection earlier 2021. Source: shoppingmilanoroma.it
Gucci specifically is aiming to target a variety of subcultures. “They really understand that today’s younger customers are so fragmented,” & “You need to tap into different niches.” Source: marketplace,org
Brands Getting Into Anime Fashion
Since 2017 we have seen how anime inspired fashion has become so popular that it even hit the runway! This phenomenon and source of inspiration is getting bigger and more used. High-end brands have taken a positive stance and welcomed this new look. Many high-end companies, like Dior, Loewe and
Loewe x My Neighbour Totoro My Neighbor Totoro is one of the most beloved anime films. But for the first time, Totoro joined hands with the luxury brand Loewe to get its first fashion statement. My Neighbour Totoro & Loewe capsule collection was launched in January 2021. The collection featured a range of accessories and other products. Source: Loewe
Surpreme x Akira For Fall 2017, Supreme has worked with manga artist Katsuhiro Otomo on a collection featuring original artwork from his manga series AKIRA. The
Upp: Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2020. Down: Comme Des Garçons Spring/Summer 2018.
''Virgil Abloh, former creative director of Louis Vuitton, called out Reggieknow for the SS21 menswear presentation, an Americanbased anime artist, to make pictures to complement this collection. "The mangainspired theme was shown on the runway in the shape of inflatable statues of Reggieknow's characters and garments covered with plush creatures.'' Source: lofficielusa.com
So what have we learned?
Anime's cultural phenomena, as well as the active subcultures that emulate and draw inspiration from it, are all products of the collective society's conservatism. Anime taught me that being different is worth the risk since it allows you to stand out from the crowd. Anti-mimesis has thrived in Japan due to this unique culture. I believe that anime's cultural influence will continue to expand in the worldwide youth culture. Anime allows people to express themselves in whatever way they see fit their true selves - everything from something intimate and personal like sexuality and gender, to something temporary changeable or enhanceable like makeup. Anime is a cultural phenomenon outside of the films themselves. Even if one hasn't seen the original movie or series, one can feel familiar with the characters.
MEN’S SPRING-SUMMER 2021 COLLECTION Virgil Abloh presents “The Adventures of Zoooom with Friends ”, a new concept for his latest Louis Vuitton Men’s Collection. Soure: luisvuitton.com
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