Masters Promotion, Communication & Digital Media 21/22 Sandra Hilltomt
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FASHI
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LIVESHOPPING The success behind the chinese liveshopping consumer behaviours and a comparison with Europe
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Table of Contents CHAPTERS COVERED Sociologists theories
What is Liveshopping?
Why is it conquering the chinese Market? Before and after pandemic Livestream strategies
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Lifestream experience of Beauty and Fashion
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Case studies
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How does it work in europe?
A comprison between Europe and China Our Hypothesis for the future Harvard references
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SOCIOLOGY OF FASHION
OUR TEAM
Giovanna
Margherita
Nadia
Sandra
Stacey
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WHAT DO SOCIOLOGISTS SAY ABOUT CONSUMPTION? 04
The sociology evolution on consumer behaviour
THEORIES
Jean Baudrillard; He resumed ''The Consumer Society' in two points; The postmodern society is simulation society, that is, run and controlled by code, sign and image. The postmodern society is a consumer society. In summary, Baudrillard says we purchase goods according to the images and signs those products carry. Those products images carry or a brand or a sign value.
Thorstein Veblen ''We choose to copy someone we admire''.
Being fashionable has to be something that is envied and desired; otherwise the
consumer would not adopt fashion nor wish to be fashionable.
Zygmunt Bauman ''Consumption is about being bored'' our “liquid” society is based on everything being temporary, unstable, insubstantial, and ephemeral
Consumerism and buying new things takes on a major role because it helps fill a void inside and fight boredome.
The problem is that you can’t fill a void with material goods
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WHAT IS LIVE SHOPPING? Situation in China
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What is Live shopping? Technicalities ''Livestream ecommerce is a business model in which retailers, influencers, or celebrities sell products and services via online video streaming where the presenter demonstrates and discusses the offering and answers audience questions in realtime.'' Audiences may also interact with the broadcast in real time by leaving comments, which helps marketers enhance their customer connections. It simulates the in-store purchasing experience, where sales were typically made through face-to-face discussions about items.
For a long time, live stream shopping has been a significant craze in China; for many gen-Z and millennials across the country, the fast-paced, hectic, and colorful streaming have become routine. Popular influencers frequently host the events, which offer different goods from different businesses in each broadcast, with some things selling out in minutes. The trend began in 2017 on platforms such as Taobao, Weibo, and WeChat, and the sector is currently valued at $66 billion, accounting for 20.3 percent of all online sales in China. More than 10 million live streaming sessions were recorded in the first half of 2020, demonstrating the popularity of the format among Chinese consumers.
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WHY IS LIVE SHOPPING CONQUERING THE CHINESE MARKET? Cultural Impact & technological advancement
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LIVESTREAMING & CHINA CHINESE
Cultural Impact
Industry was worth of $66 Billion in 2019. According to eMarketers, China has the highest rate of e-commerce of any country as a % of total retail sales & the highest absolute sales level. In 2021, the market in China is anticipated to reach more than $300 Billion. Capacity can be up to 10 to 20 thousand watchers. Consumers can learn about products or trends, ask questions and get realtime answers, and buy right in the moment. Removes friction between discovery and shopping, offering a seamless experience as it telescopes the customer decisions journey from awareness to purchase.
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CHINESE
Cultural Impact
Consumers perceive influencers as relatable and authentic. When influencers recommend a product, fans mostly trust their judgement as much as a friend, as they seem to be just purely excited to inform them of their latest findings. Entertainment factor is equally momentous. Offers brands instant consumer feedback that informs their marketing strategies and product development, creating a sense of community, personal engagement and belonging, and longterm brand loyalty. Alibaba was the first company to mix live stream + shopping experience, and Alibaba's Taobao Live has the lion's share of livestreamng at around 80%. Other large tech and e-commerce players include Baidu, JD.conm, Douyin (Chinese version of TikTok), Kuaishou and MOGU.
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TECHNOLOGICAL
Advancement
With the support of AI, technology assists in the transition to a demand-led model, preventing overstock by assessing customer sentiment before product development and distribution on consumer insights and analytics, and at times, incorporating these with made-to-order models. Forecasts are manifesting that with market uncertainty and an augmenting accentuation on sustainability, the wholesale pre-orders are being maintained whereas open-to-buys will be enhanced, establishing opportunity to bring in the latest products that consumers desire for, and to replenish the bestsellers punctually. This model also induces impulse shopping, with the integration of the buttons into the video streaming.
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THE LIVESTREAM EXPERIENCE WITH LUXURY FASHION & COSMETICS 19
LIVESTREAM EXPERIENCE
Luxury Brands
Analyst firm Gartner’s IT-0.2% recently released Digital IQ Index: Luxury China 2020 report found that luxury brands have been joining emerging platforms in droves. 60% of luxury brands now operate an account on the social review platform Xiaohongshu (RED), up from only 13% in 2019. And 49% of luxury brands have an official account on Douyin (TikTok), up from 33% last year. While luxury cosmetics have long embraced live streaming and commerce festivals, brands’ true luxury divisions such as bags, apparel, and jewelry have typically avoided them for fear of hurting their brand image. However throughout this year we’ve seen several luxury brands experiment with live streaming, including Bottega Venetta who worked with Austin Li to sell 230 bags in 10 seconds, and Salvatore Ferragamo whose live stream on WeChat garnered over 3.2 million viewers.
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Taobao Live platform, the total GMV driven by live streaming during the 2020 11.11 shopping holiday grew over 100% year over year. In 2019, live streaming accounted for nearly 20 billion RMB or $3 billion USD of total sales. The chinese government has supported the livestream as a new engine of e commerce, and as a solution to unemployment after pandemic.
The 11.11 Global Shopping Festival is an annual event for brands and consumers to raise awareness about the value of online shopping. Since launching in 2009 with just 27 merchants, more than 290,000 brands and over 900 million Chinese consumers now participate in the festival’s two shopping windows — from November 1 to 3, and the main event on November 11.
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AUSTIN LI: THE LIPSTICK KING Austin has built a following of more than 7 million on Weibo & more than 35 million on TikTok. Signature catchphrases: "Are you ready to buy, buy and buy?"; "OMG! Sisters buy this!"
LIVESTREAM EXPERIENCE
Cosmetics
Scathing, snarky and extremely honest and blunt live-streaming attitude and approach. Friendly, peppy tone of voice, combined with how he is unafraid of offending luxury brands and major retailers. Vivid descriptions of beauty products, e.g. he doesn't call coral blush "peach", but "ripe fruit of summer, tender to the touch and a shade that will make men stop in their tracks" etc., accentuating on the male gaze and mentioning specifically certain distinct features of distinct lipstick shades or other beauty products that would look appealing on women for men. Tried 380 lipsticks in a 7-hour marathon stream, and sold 15,000 lipsticks in 5 minutes. Sold $1.7 billion worth of products in the 12-hour-livestream kicking off Alibaba's Singles Day Shopping Festival this year. 1. Direct Communication 2. Discounts and incentives 3. Saves time and effort
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THEORETICAL REINFORCEMENTS
Participatory culture
Participatory culture is a concept of network commitment to nurture communities and connections. The meaning of fans and consumers has altered from simple consumers to more active roles, contributors and producers. This is a form of affiliation, expression, collaborative problem solving and circulation.
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THEORETICAL REINFORCEMENTS
Social impact theory
Social impact theory proposed by Latané in 1981 consists of three basic rules : intensity of influence sources, immediacy of events and number of influence sources. In this context of live-stream shopping, it is the importance of fan group influence on individuals, how close the group is to the individuals physically trying to influence, and the number of fans in the group. This theory is potently correlated with interactivity of consumers.
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INTERACTION BETWEEN AUSTIN AND THE FANS CAN BE DIVIDED INTO THE FOLLOWING:
THEORETICAL REINFORCEMENTS
Social impact theory
1. Coupons
2. Restricted supply
3. Product trial
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THEORETICAL REINFORCEMENTS
Conformity
The act that matches attitudes, beliefs and behaviours with group norms, politics or the like-minded. Kelman distinguishes 3 different types of conformity: compliance or group acceptance, internalisation and identification. The above elements are all designed to provoke consumers into buying.
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EUROPE’S APPROACH TO LIVE SHOPPING 29
EUROPE
Current situation
Although livestreaming and live shopping are not new concepts in Europe, they are not as well integrated and commonly used here as in China. Currently we don't have a strong and popular social media that is used and built around live streaming and live shopping, like they have in China. Instagram, Meta (Facebook) and TikTok all have a live streaming feature, but it is not the main focus of their application. Recently Meta introduced ''shopping'' to their live-function. ''Sell products, interact with viewers and find new leads with live streams in real time.''. However, as we saw before, this is old news in China. European companies are embracing livestreaming as well as promotional techniques from China Western brands are establishing their own livecommerce ventures and events to promote their products, especially in beauty and fashion Earliest adopters was German beauty retailer Douglas Tommy Hilfiger recently extended its livestream program to Europe and North America following successes in China convert sails even faster
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WHAT CAN LIVESTREAM SHOPPING BRING TO THE TABLE? Bauman said products lose their value the moment companies launch new ones - it is the urge to buy something and feel validated by the community. Companies does the same by keeping lauching new desirable products.
Improving brand appeal and differentiation: live commerce increases a brand’s appeal and distinctiveness and pulls in additional web traffic. Making unique experiences and bringing specific contents to specific targets - subcultures and communities, a sense of importance and rapresentation for that specific public. Keeping e-commerce websites, social media and live experiences alligned and updated - almost as an 'marketing strategy' to keep a specific product always seen, making the consumer desire it.
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OUR CASE STUDIES O u r o w n r e s e a r c h a n a l a s y s o n a l u x u r y m u l t i b r a n d s t o r e fo c u s i n g o n s h o e s i n S c a n d i n a v i a & C h i n e s e i n f l u e n s e r s e l l i n g l i v e o n T ao bao
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FIRST CASE STUDY
Savannahas.com
Savannahs is a luxury multibrand store focusing on shoes and bags located in the heart of stockholms shopig street between Gucci, Chanel and Cartier. They are the only stockist (with a physical store) that sell b Manolo Blahnik, Amina Muaddi, Alaia, Louboutin (and more) in all of Scandinavia. good ecom presence
FUN FACT
70% of European shoppers are at least interested in experimenting with live streaming ‘shoppertainment Leading product categories are electronics, fashion, and cosmetics
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FIRST CASE STUDY
Q&A
How does the live streaming shopping work in your country We have had good customer contact through our livestreams. It is a good way to both communicate with our existing customers and reach out to new ones.
When & Why did Savannahs start with the live-shopping concept? We have expanded our live shopping over the past year and developed it on a regular basis. It is a social and creative way to further digitize shopping, and is very timely. If anything, it has been fun for us as communication does not become one-way.
Is it profitable? Will you continue? We will continue in terms of time and capacity, but it is always valuable in various respects to build a relationship with the customer.
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FIRST CASE STUDY
Q&A Pros/Cons of liveshopping for your business "I started Savannahs boutique because I was missing a store in Stockholm offering the shoes I wanted to wear myself. Today – ten years later – we cater to women all over the world and are proud to represent today’s most prestigious shoe designers and luxury brands." Savannah Blom
Of course, it takes time to compile an engaging topic and concept that is worth the viewer's time, but the advantage is that viewers get involved and so far have given very positive feedback, which creates a lot of motivation and inspiration for us.
Do you think it will grow in Sweden/EU? We value all forms of innovation in the industry, and think that creative ideas are interesting to explore so it is absolutely possible.
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CASE STUDY
Lu Lu Chinese girl She is a livestreaming influencer
Working in Milan. Buy or host live-streams through channels. Live-stream shopping will develop in Europe but it will be a very slow and gradual process because.... she will talking about the salary, her opinion of live shopping online in Europe...
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SECOND CASE STUDY
Q&A
How does the live streaming shopping work in your country Nowadays, a lot of people do live-streaming to buy goods online, and those goods can range from food to clothings. I generally buy or host livestreams through channels such as Tik Tok, or the Chinese version called Douyin, or Taobao.
Why and how did you become a live host? I came to know a Taobao shop through a friend
The shop sells many products of well-known luxury brands in Milan, and will mail them back to China after the transaction is successful with the customer.ur service also includes clearing the customs for the parcels,
Is it profitable? Will you continue? If the sale is good, I can sell about 80,000 RMB (10,000 euros) in one day. I receive a commission of 20 euros per piece of clothing that I sell. However, being a Taobao live host is exhausting, because I need to speak in the streaming room for 6 hours
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SECOND CASE STUDY
Q&A
Pros/Cons of liveshopping for your business? Doing live-streaming overseas is not as promising as in China, so I think the only way to earn money is to sell luxury goods and European skincare products here.
Do you think it will grow in europe? 1) payment method is not wellrounded and efficient, as nowadays literally no one in China uses cash. 2) At present, China has a very extensive and ideal live-stream shopping and selling system, and there are many affiliated companies in this field. 3) European logistics system is not particularly efficient, especially compared to that of China.
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A COMPARISON BETWEEN EURPE AND CHINA 39
CHINA
EUROPE
Physical shops work more as showroom
COMPARISON
HABITS AND ATTIDUES
Open to new tech innovations Trust what their KOLs recomend Main way to find new products
Face to face shopping is rooted Not use to watch videos on their phone for long hours Trust their KOSs more Buying decisions influenced by family or friends
DID YOU KNOW... KOL: Key opinion leader is influential personality that can drive thinking, action and decisions in mass.
KOS:Key Opinion Seller is an internal brand member (designer, sales, founder)
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EUROPE
CURRENT TWO MODELS It is no surprise that the extreme commercialised formats of Chinese live shopping are yet to be discovered her in Europe. We simply have a different approach and relationship to social media. At the current state businesses models for live shopping.
MODEL 2 OPEN LIVE-SHOPPING WEBSITE
FIND INTERESTING LIVESTEAM
PUSH ''BUY'' WHEN FINDING AND WANTING ANYTING
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CHINA Taobao live, Douyin,Kuaishou Multi channel nteworks have crucial role in training KOLs and connecting them with brands
PLATFORM TYPES EUROPE Bambuser Beginning to offer livestream functionalities brands keep ownership of the costumer datas
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CHINA Milllions of viewrs simultaneously people buy during the show loud, busy, commercial-oriented sessions show last between 3-8 hours
SHOW CHARACTERISTICS
EUROPE small audiance of loyal costumers most consumers purchase after the show is over clean and simple style may last less then an hour
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CHINA
POPULAR PRODUCTS
EUROPE
initally fashion and beauty
apparel and fashion
rockets and houses
small % is beauty and technology
Years 2021 and 2022 will tell whether live e-commerce in Europe has been just a temporary pandemic-driven boom or if it is here to stay.
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HYPOTHESIS 45
WHAT WE CAN EXPECT
THE FUTURE OF LIVE SHOPPING IN CHINA
THE END OF LIVE SHOPPING?
CHANGING THE EMPLOYMENT STRUCTURE
As according to eMarketers, by the end of 2023, over 45% of digital consumers aged from 14 and over will shop via livestream.
This trend is further accentuated by the disastrous COVID-19, since consumers seeking to replicate the in-store shopping experience, including interactions with sales assistants and actual viewing of the products, have discovered what they required in these livestreaming channels, therefore this year and onwards, they are incontrovertibly sticking to this means of buying.
We anticipate that in the course of the next years, the brick-and -mortar shops will act as complement to the livestream shopping phenomenon, as consumers may view the items in store but make purchasing decisions through live-streams.
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WHAT WE CAN EXPECT
THE FUTURE OF LIVE SHOPPING IN EUROPE
A QUESTION OF TIME
WE PUT OUR TRUST IN KOS
Currently we don't have the same applications here in Europe like they do in China, where the easy shopping is integrated in their social media application. Today we have live-shopping programs in europe but they work as a second-party operators on the web, still not supported on smartphones.
Europeans still turn to professionals / key opinion sellers. However this is slowly changing as the younger generations are following and paying more attention to influencers and big profiles on social media (KOL).
Because of this our hypothesis is that indeed live-shopping is here to stay. However it will take some time to catch up to Chinas level. According to Technode.com europe has the potential to reach around 160 million live streaming e-commerce users by 2024.
In conclusion, as generation Z and generation alpha are growing, the technology and new solutions will grow with them.
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WHAT WE CAN EXPECT
METAVERSE
As said in the theories of Bauman, nothing lasts too long in post modern society; everything is volatile, like the water. And the metaverse came to prove how it is true and how a 3D world can turn into a 4 dimeensional approach.
FASHION IS MAKING A NEW DIGITAL EXPERIENCE Fashion is making it a new digital experience. Metaverse is the convergence of physical, augmented and virtual reality in a shared online space. Companies are trying to bring life to the internet rather than making you just look at a simple ecommerce page.
GEN-Z AS A TARGET Metaverse can provide to customers a virtual reality, with a new digital shopping experience, called ‘smart clothing’ - you can try on clothes or make-up in a 4D dimension, in order to make the virtual purchase more realistic. It is also an strategy to call a new target, mainly gen Z.
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WHAT WE CAN EXPECT
SUBCULTURES
Digital media boom & the postpandemic scenario expanded the numbers of small communities and subcultures groups.
THE IMPACT OF DIGITAL BOOM
Liveshopping, now, must focus on very minimal approaches, trends and opinions for this variety of ‘micro identities’ populations, making contents, entertainment and developing products for unique targets. The brand must provide a feeling of belonging and representation to its customers, making them identify with the brand’s concept and build loyalty.
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