Inquirer RED: 2016 June

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POWDER PLAY

The Beauty Chronicles

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EDitor's note

Whether male or female, everyone needs a beauty arsenal.

My husband, who is an avid golfer, would never use SPF because he finds it sticky. When I saw what products he had on his counter, I actually felt bad for him. Although there are amazing drugstore brands, I can say this with confidence: when it comes to SPF, there really are no shortcuts. Now, he uses Clinique Men’s line and is loving it! Sometimes, all a man needs is to be pointed in the right direction. That being said, Rustan’s has a promo for all those who need anything from cologne to cavier crèmes. Plus, there are so many new offerings. It’s not just in the realms of fashion and beauty; a new private club is also coming up. Or put up new wallpaper in your dated space. On my lust-list is Hermès!

@riarecommends

CONTENTS

admired 10 SQUAred 4

On the cover: All Day Luminous Weightless foundation,

The comedic undertones of

Nars; Stylo eyeshadow, Chanel; Stay All Day liquid lipstick, Stila; No Highlighter Highlighter, Perricone MD;

Philippe Starck’s designs

Acca Kappa.

inspired 14

Blue Orchid face treatment oil, Clarins; Muschio Bianco,

Manila’s creative class has found

Photography Patrick Segovia Styling Ria Prieto

a new local address

This page: Annual Calendar 18K white gold,

The spiritual ethos of hunting in Idaho

Creative direction Nimu Muallam

explored 22

Patek Philippe.

Group Publisher Bea Ledesma Editor in Chief Ria Prieto Creative Director Nimu Muallam Copy Editor September Grace Mahino Editorial Assistants Pristine de Leon, Christelle Tolisora Staff Photographer Patrick Segovia External Relations Officer Liza Jison Intern Gabrielle Abrahan

FOLLOW US ON

Contributing Writers Chryssa Celestino, Jenna V. Genio, Bambina Olivares-Wise, Eric Nicole Salta Contributing Photographers Jar Concengco, Jenne V. Genio, Chola Tolentino Contributing Illustrator Rachell Flores, Reese Lansangan

Inquirer RED Magazine-OFFICIAL

Board Chairperson Alexandra Prieto-Romualdez SVP and Group Sales Head, Inquirer Group of Companies Pepito Olarte Sales Director Ma. Katrina Mae Garcia-Dalusong Business and Distribution Manager Rina Lareza Sales Inquiries Email: sales@hip.ph Telephone No: +63 (2) 403 8825 local 239

@inquirerRED

@inquirerred

Want to see the other issues of Inquirer RED Magazine? Check out inquirer.net/red

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House of Starck Revisiting the pieces that made an icon of Philippe Starck

Walter

Wayle II Wall

Clock

(1988) The second edition of the Walter Wayle wall clock has two finger-like hands sketched after an animal’s horn when viewed from the side. The modern timepiece doubles as an art installment as it slowly turns without any cover or numbers to actually tell time. squaRED

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The Design Comedy

The humor and the science behind Philippe Starck's new M Social W o r d s C h r i st e l l e T o l i s o r a

Mutation involves a certain alteration of genetic elements—at least, a science textbook will tell you as much. In the realm of design, architect and interior designer Philippe Starck merges his fascination for mutation and his penchant for humor in each of his works. Think inflatable houses combined with Starck’s irreverent, iconoclastic vision and the result looks something that sprang from surrealist movement.

The French designer began his career when he designed an inflatable house as an homage to Vietnamese engineer and fellow designer Quasar Khanh, an enduring icon of the renegade spirit of the ’60s. Starck then rose to prominence by reinventing everyday objects such as toothbrushes, lemon squeezers, chairs, and even a toilet brush—all of which are considered bold objets d’art.

Bent on employing design to solve human and environmental needs, the renowned French designer also began a movement he called “Democratic Design.”

This concept is best embodied in M Social Singapore, a lifestyle hotel opening its doors this June.

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An interplay of metal frames, glass windows, mirrors, and wood furnishing is present in what is called The Nicer Room and The Bigger Room, making apparent Starck’s eternal fondness for contemporary design. The warm color tones, pashmina throws, and thick carpets embody his idea of “snuggish” interiors, and a self-check-in kiosk at the lobby, the first in Singapore, allows travelers to check-in with ease. This is the purest and truest form of design for Philippe Starck: it doesn’t solely revolve around structure and technique, but rather, takes into consideration the people who will soon populate the space.

Starck is as much an inventor as he is a designer.

He believes that everything participates in perpetual mutation, transforming into something even more fascinating and exciting than its current form. Starck likens design to a theater: the space is the stage and the visitors are performers. Man can shape his own story, they say, and Starck creates a realm where those moments will soon take place.

Dr. Kiss

Toothbrush

(1996) With the brush shaped like a quill curving out of an inkwell, most people say that Dr. Kiss is Starck’s love letter to Brancusi’s Bird in Space— in the form of something as practical as a toothbrush. Its prototype from 1949 is now included in the MoMA collection.

Ghost Chair

(2002) It’s an unconventional take on the classic Louis XVI armchair, designed with a clear plastic body that’s arguably just as elegant as the original imperial throne. With millions sold, the Ghost Chair has since been regarded as an indispensable emblem of modern furniture.

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BOOKS

Book Fare

Reads to savor before meals

DEVOURED

Creative Control

A revamped menu shows this two Michelin-star chef at his most accessible, skirting the contemporary and timeless with a deft touch

Modern Meat Kitchen

by Miranda Ballard Miranda Ballard’s Modern Meat Kitchen offers a comprehensive guide to every choice of meat, presenting everything from tips on buying according to the season to detailed charts of all the cuts.

W ord s e ri c ni cole sa lta P h ot ograp h y Ch ol a T ol e n t in o

“If someone asks if you’ve tried this restaurant yet people aren’t able to tell you one element from their [meal], that’s not a good sign.” Chef William Mahi, the Tasting Room’s chef de cuisine, whose restaurant rhetoric is as much a draw as his resplendent plates, took the reins of the modern European restaurant two years ago after his stint in Athens’ Spondi. “What’s exciting about chef William is he is constantly developing a new experience for the customer,” says property president Geoff Andres. The midyear menu facelift comes with meats from Europe, fish from the Atlantic Ocean, and vegetables from local farms. “I’m basically following the seasons of Europe. In autumn, we put more mushrooms and games that I can find in Paris [into the dishes].”

The latest menu update is meant to find fulfillment in familiarity, where a 52-degree egg appetizer folds nicely with potato mousse and French black truffle, or a bone-in rib eye is presented to the diner before cooking it. Even if the fare is simple, he doesn’t need to force any sort of gimmickry to make his mark—although there are moments like the Mediterranean sea bass in salted crust, complete with smoky after-effects. Then, there’s the steak platter with Mayura Station bone-in rib eye and côte de boeuf wagyu beef: a dish with just enough elegant muscle to keep things from getting too mundane.

“What we want people to have here is an experience that creates a memory,” says Andres. And by taking various elements from its collective past, The Tasting Room has created something wholly new in what is utterly familiar.

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At Home with Umami

by Laura Santtini The often overlooked fifth flavor has been the savory taste associated with Parmesan cheese, mushroom, and salted anchovy. Here, Laura Santtini presents more than 60 mouthwatering recipes to enjoy umami.

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ON THE RADAR

Trinket Trail

The latest on designers who chose to go the bolder route Words c h ryssa c e l e st in o

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False Alarm

Time Slip

Social media serves as Maco Custodio’s makeshift runway for the debut of his latest leather slippers. The bespoke designer shares glimpses of his calfskin black-and-brown pair on Instagram, where he documents both the process and the finished product. While dubbed as a prototype, Custodio’s slippers give off a sleek, intricate finish, enough to tease a wanting crowd.

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Amid farewells and geotag guesses, designer Ito Kish finally settles the score on his new store’s address. After announcing the relocation of his flagship store in Feburary, and recent recognition for his Binhi collection at the Katha Awards 2016 last April, Kish reveals that he’s remaining in the same place. “We’re not going anywhere, we’re only moving forward to more beautiful stories,” he writes on Instagram. The store re-opens this June at Nicanor Garcia Street in Makati.

Golden girl

Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua is breaking the rules this season with No. 21 pre-fall 2016 collection. The renegade designer once again bares his bravado with knits, silk, gold feathers, and oversized sequins, juxtaposed with military hues and floral prints.

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Across the Islands

In her latest collection “Archipelagus,” jeweler Wynn Wynn Ong crafts an ode to the Philippine archipelago and one of the Filipino tribes’ recognizable figures: the bulol, the Ifugao rice god revered for its fertility. Gold, black stone, and pearl adorn the pieces—a stylistic throwback to the Philippines’ past nickname “Pearl of the Orient” and its precolonized past.

Into the Wild

Paris and the world is set to view the Philippines through Michelline Syjuco’s sculptural jewelry. Chosen once again to represent the country at the Maison et Objet, a prestigious trade fair for décor and design, Syjuco is bringing her signature pieces and a new collection of bejeweled sculptures for the home. Commemorating her return to the event is “Metamorphosis,” a series of sculptural works that represents humanity’s resignation to nature.

Leader of the Pack From the Holiday Edit’s wild designs comes BAMIN’s quieter hurrah Words Ch ryssa Ce l e st in o an d Ch rist e l l e T ol is ora

Birthed from the cool mash-up and remix culture, BAMIN—short for Build and Make It Now—is bringing something new into its domain, with designer Robert Cordero teasing followers with new designs on Instagram last month. “Our bags are modular, which can be customized to your functional and aesthetic needs at any given time anywhere. It’s hyper-personal because it’s always you, all the time,” says

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Cordero. After launching his successful Holiday Edit collection that showcased a range of wild prints for the arty entrepreneur, the New York-based Filipino designer debuted a series of customized leather backpacks on BAMIN’s Instagram. Various leather designs have been spotted, from a backpack in gray wool and marbled leather to plain or printed leather.

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ADmIred

Fair Battle

Your skin’s newest superheroes come in bottles, not with capes Words Ch ryssa Ce l e st in o

P h ot ograp h y Pat ric k S e gov ia

The fashion industry has, for some years now, blurred the lines between feminine and masculine.

All of a sudden, it’s no longer just about bright red lips reinforcing self-expression. The runways have been witness to neon eyeshadows, metallic lipsticks, and other looks that are as striking as they are odd. Translated to reality, whether for a bride walking down the aisle or her father by her arm, there are few things more inspiring than someone owning their self-image, whether it’s wholly natural or amply aided by cosmetics.

People establish individuality through the unconventional patterns of a dress, as well as their chosen scents and cosmetics. In fashion and beauty’s most gender-fluid era, industries start to recognize that skin problems and ingredients similarly don’t discriminate between sexes. They do, however, have specific purposes. For instance,

Splurge and Save The Rustan’s Beauty Addict Card is a gateway to many privileges and rewards. The trusted luxury store gives back to its loyal members in bulk, through a card that lets them earn points, get freebies, receive promo announcements first, and merit complimentary services.

Those who are 18 and above, may complete an in-store digital application form for submission. For customers with a minimum single receipt purchase of P2,500 at the CP&T division, membership is complimentary. The privilege begins as they acquire points through purchases, and receive rewards (cosmetics, fragrances, merchandise, and what not) and invites exclusive to them. Good things come bundled in small packages; now is the time to claim them.

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acne plagues the oily and over-cleansed, making the Corsican cedrat extracts of L’Occitane’s Cedrat Energizing Splash useful in mattifying the face with its refreshing citrus properties. It’s empowering to conceal years of imperfections— ridges, zits, spots—with a cream.

Parading one’s self while gilded with beauty products, then, isn’t just a way to flaunt taste; it’s a lifestyle that reveals genuine care of the self.

Think of the blushing bride, for example. Her rosy flush as she walks down the aisle is partly due to the hardworking Perricone MD No Highlighter Highlighter that looks completely natural, or the Stila Aqua Glow Foundation Serum that lent her face moisture, maybe even the Nars Optimal Brightening Concentrate she used the night before. To her audience, she comes off pampered; self-assured even. When it comes to masculine styles, from the shiny-as-patentleather hair of Clark Gable to Johnny Depp’s eyeliner, men have similarly trusted skincare to save the day.

We’re lucky to live in a time of many karmic opportunities, where buying a product can lead enthusiasts to get another, and a Rustan’s Beauty Addict Card can give them more in points and rewards than when they started. Self-care need not be scientific. Ultimately, it’s about freedom and expression, creating new looks, rules, and ways to be perceived. If the Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne can give you an extra air of confidence or if the L’Occitane Cedrat Hand Cream can soften your hardened palms and rigid touches, then nothing is more satisfying than indulging in things that could boost your selfworth and leave a lasting impact.

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Optimal brightening concentrate, Nars; White & Even dark spot corrector, Palmer’s; Clear Start Emergency Spot Fix, Dermalogica; Ridge Filler, OPI; Cedrat hand cream, L’Occitane.

All available at Rustan’s Makati.

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Allure Homme Sport Cologne, Chanel; Muschio Bianco, Acca Kappa; Jardin De Le NÔtre, Historiae; L'Ile Au The, Annick Goutal.

All available at Rustan’s Makati.

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14 This page: Gert Voorjans’ studio in Antwerp, Belgium adorned with a statue of an archer juxtaposed with a Montgolfier latern.

INSPIRED

Method to Madness Belgian designer Gert Voorjans makes Manila his new muse W ords P ri st i ne de Le on

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Often described as baroque with Antwerp overtones, Gert Voorjans’ interiors are at once intimate and overwhelming, ever exerting their strange parade of wit and whimsy. Over the years, he’s crowded his own nineteenth-century townhouse with mismatched elements like papier mâché carnival masks, 17th century Flemish tapestry, and a portrait of rock god Jimi Hendrix.

“The master of mixing,” as the Wall Street Journal puts it, Voorjans has designed the residences of Nina Garcia and Mick Jagger, as well as the interiors of Joyce boutique in Hong Kong, Coccodrillo in Antwerp, and Dries van Noten worldwide. If there’s a trademark to a Voorjans design, apart from its studied yet

unapologetic maximalist tendencies, it’s how the room captures the very spirit of the locale.

About two years ago, Voorjans was in Venice for the Biennale discussing the idea of a private club with his friends. Someone from London was in touch with people looking to set up a Soho House-style club in Manila, and Voorjans, of course, was appointed designer.

Persian carpets, mismatched silverware, antique and contemporary crockery, coromandelinspired screens of rich fabric, and other sorts of imaginable curios now adorn Manila House.

A mix of eras and cultures find resonance in the private club, defining Filipino from the inimitable eye of Gert Voorjans.

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Manila House London, New York, and Berlin have seen the rise of private clubs housing the city’s businessmen and literati. Here, what you can call the local counterpart of Soho House will open shortly in Manila. “The concept of the Manila House blends the tradition of the British gentleman’s club with the more contemporary clubs that cater to the creative classes,” says Bambina Olivares, spokesperson of Manila House.

Designed by Gert Voorjans, the private club attracts a glamorous cast of Manila’s creative crowd: from the realms of business, art, food, politics, and culture. Gone are the stifling stone edifices that defined the clubs of the previous era; “Voorjans works in a wonderfully layered manner,” says Olivares, “with doses of wit and humor that make his spaces feel intimate instead of alienating.” Members can revel in artwork curated by the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, as well as lectures, film showings, and dinners in the club’s Filipino and Japanese restaurants.

JOIN THE CLUB A round-up of private clubs that have gathered a host of tastemakers in new york

NORW OOD CLU B PHO T O C O U R T ES Y O F P h ot o Pi n k

1 1. The Magnises gives its members access to exclusive VIP areas in nightclubs and hotels by way of a black card.

Launched in 2013 in New York, it’s recognized as the social club for elite millennials.

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2 2. The Flatiron district has a social club all to itself.

NeueHouse is home to solopreneurs and small start-ups. They hold exhibitions, lectures, and film screenings.

3 3. Populated by those in creative industries, Norwood Club in Chelsea, New York is also a gateway to other social clubs across Europe including ones in Auckland and Budapest.

4. The Soho House in Ninth Avenue, New York is poised for global takeover with 12 other locations across the world. On weekends, the social club transforms into its own party clubhouse with cocktails served on the rooftop.

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5. The Core Club is the center of social clubs.

Founded in 2005 in New York by Jennie Enterprise, it is a self-selecting community where aspiring members need to be picked.

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ART

EADES A brand borne of traditional hand-painted Chinoiserie in the noble homes of Britain, Eades Bespoke churns out few of the United Kingdom’s most elegant patterned wallpapers. Here, London-based designer Varpu Kronholm, known for her abstract contemporary style, blends both hands-on and digital techniques, all to create the delicate charm of a marbled flower.

Eades, www.eadesbespoke.co.uk.

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FROMENTAL Having been in the industry for a little more than a decade, Fromental has adorned the walls of London’s most prestigious hallways, among them, the Goring Hotel’s where Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton dotted the eye of a unicorn on the wall. Here, the Kintsugi design celebrates the Japanese art of repairing broken ceramics with gold-laden lacquer.

Fromental, www.fromental.co.uk.

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Waltz of the Flowers

Bespoke wallpapers lend every room a touch of enchantment Words p rist in e de l e on

Pierre Frey A luxury design house birthed in the ’30s, Pierre Frey manufactures fabric and wallpaper in the purest French tradition, replicating what they call “the antique surface of a painting hidden in the depths of a château.” From their Jungle collection, the Papayago motif features an Amazonian wilderness concealing an Aztec door.

Pierre Frey, www.pierrefrey.com.

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HERMÈS The Hermès menagerie is teeming with handsome felines, birds of changing plumage, and various other beasts lost in the jungle’s wildly growing foliage. Robert Dallet designs an imaginarium of multicolored flora and fauna, meant to conjure the many motions of nature and open space. Here, wild forests find themselves growing in fluid silk twill and elegant damask.

Hermès, www.hermes.com.

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ATTIRED

A Cut Above

This season’s take on luxury is personalized and exclusive words ch rist e l l e t ol is ora p h ot ograp h y pat ric k s e gov ia

il lustrat ion rac h e l l f lo r es

Men have developed a strong desire for accuracy and precision. They fix their gazes on the most intricate details: the patterns on a tie, the mechanisms of a wristwatch, the sleeker lines and the tail-light graphics of a vehicle. Bespoke products do well in marrying craftsmanship and individuality. Rather than being trendy, they prove how having something personalized—in the right size, cut, and pattern—is both a pleasure and a privilege for the men of the millennium.

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Zahra Extended Phantom Wheelbase, Rolls-Royce, www.rolls-roycemotorcars.com

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Collar, Felipe and Sons, LPL Mansions, Makati City, www.felipeandsons.com

Blue Suede Tassle Loafers, Sapatero, LPL Mansions, Makati City, www.sapatero.com

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Equilibrium Fountain Pen, Nakaya, www.nakaya.org

Carlton Eyewear, Maison Bonnet, www.maisonbonnet.com

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Longwing Brogue Saddle by Carmina, Signet, Windsor Tower, Makati City

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Zürich Men's Watch, Jean-Loup Ribordy, www.ribordywatches.com

Single-breasted Suit Blazer, Tiño, Herco Center, Makati City, www.tinosuits.com

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Signature Touch for Bentley, Vertu, Shangri-La Plaza, www.vertu.com

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EXPLOred

The Good Pursuit

On a hunting jaunt in Idaho, one writer traverses the way of the ancient mystics Words an d P h ot ograp h y Je n n a V. G e n io

We drove by the golden hills of Idaho to meet our strapping guide at his ranch, towering over a Native American reservation in the town of Stites. The private property was vast, boasting hunting blinds, dirt roads, and a healthy population of coyotes, whitetail, mule deer, and ducks. My companions had tags for two whitetails; their missions were clear.

Hunting is controversial, but I count myself lucky to have met the best kind of sportsmen: ethical, educated, and conscientious. Hunters must register and pay for an annual license and a tag, a permit to harvest a specific animal. The finite tags protect populations and create tax revenue that goes back to wildlife management.

Poaching is considered disobedience.

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I learned that many hunters are, in fact, some of the most passionate conservationists you’ll ever meet. They appreciate and know more about wildlife, natural behavior, anatomy, and the land than the average nature lover.

Conservation efforts spearheaded by hunters are to be thanked for the resurging population of North American animals. Hunters, alongside animal rights activists, contribute to the protection and preservation of natural habitats.

Sometimes the government spends millions of taxpayers’ dollars to cull wildlife populations, relieved by the fact that hunters actually pay for the honor, and the earnings directly fund environmental causes. Responsible hunting exists and it requires skill, awareness, and virtue.

Every dawn, the hunters headed out into the freezing fog, and every afternoon they’d come back with no luck, until the very last day when fortune finally favored them. One of them had such a remarkable experience, facing his whitetail only a couple of yards away, brandishing a rare, asymmetrical rack of antlers.

The hunter stressed the importance of shooting to kill—only when one is confident and sure— to minimize suffering. In the past, he chose to down a limping, wounded buck instead of one that would make for a more desirable trophy.

It was an example of the many choices hunters have to make that eventually show their character and gain the respect of their guides.

After recounting that morning’s experience, we couldn’t mock old civilizations for their superstitions. Animism must have been the effect of their dependence on and constant exposure to the outdoors, not to mention the awe-inspiring events they must have witnessed. Hunters, who trek or wait for hours in unforgiving terrain and weather conditions, also have a primitive connection to the wilderness, which others in the city wouldn’t understand.

After days of taxing tribulations, one

whitetail appeared so close and so striking, that the hunter could hardly believe it; it was probably Earth’s karmic reward for being so respectful. All alone, he laid his hand on the deceased deer and found himself thanking whatever powers that be for a good hunt—like how mountaineers thank a mountain after a safe descent.

As we drove the carcasses to the butcher, I was deep in my own reflection. It’s something that all outdoor enthusiasts can attest to, because of certain events that can easily be described as miraculous. I guess nature has a way of making mystics of us all.

Opposite page: Deer hunters drag their prize after a successful hunt.

This page, clockwise from top: The deer hunter was just about to disappear around that hill; a corner decorated with taxidermy and eclectic furniture; Husqvarna and Sako bolt-action rifles rest on a Honda FourTrax Rancher.

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empoweRED

The Business of Design

Mark Wilson sees new light in the field of interior design I n t e rv ie w Ch rist e l l e T ol is ora p h ot ograp h y Jar Con c e n gc o

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“I probably spend too much time on Instagram,” Mark Wilson confesses when asked what he does in between breaks from his work in interior and lighting design. Wilson is the other half of WE Design, a firm he established with architect Nikki Escalona. Having returned to the Philippines from Parsons School of Design in New York, Wilson has handled interior and lighting commissions with two of the most recognized Filipino clothing and handicrafts store: Kultura at SM Makati and Tesoros. He continues his pursuit and shares with RED the latest in the landscape of local design.

What do you consider your greatest influence?

I value my multiracial heritage. The Filipino in me loves our hardwoods: balayong and kamagong, and our rich heritage of woodworking, fine furniture, capiz, and banigs. The American part of me loves freedom, diversity, and the importance of developing a concept. My design inspiration is usually an amalgam of our clients’ [aspirations]: the conditions of the site, and my own understanding of the history of art, architecture, and decoration.

In terms of process and technique, how would you compare the design landscape abroad and in the Philippines?

Our process is the same: it begins with developing a concept with the client, using renderings and 3-D digital models so the client can visualize our

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proposals. Then, we go into specifying all the elements that make up the built environment: from light fixtures to velvet on the sofa. We provide quotations from contractors and end in fine tuning all the elements, including electronics that control dimming and motorized shades.

What is it in today’s industry that excites you the most?

The rapidly changing materials, our growing understanding of carbon and energy, and how it affects our planet. I think a real driver for design now in the built environment is the earth, because it turns out that the biggest pollutant is the building industry. How do we manage our processes so that we’re using materials as close to the site as possible? Also, another thing that’s exciting is the way computer edit design is evolving.

Any advice for young designers who would want to start a career in the Philippines?

Young designers should really learn how to be meditative. Because many people today are tied to their Instagram and Pinterest feeds, it becomes really easy to just copy, but in fact, going within and coming up with something creative and conceptual is more rewarding. That’s what young Filipino designers have to understand: the value of the concept, because it is the starting point for any design. The concept needs to be very rich. It comes out of the needs of the client, the conditions of the site, and how the creativity of the designer marries both to create a multilayered design solution.

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“because many people today are tied to their Instagram and Pinterest feeds, it becomes really easy to just copy, but in fact, going within and coming up with something creative and conceptual is more rewarding.�

Clockwise from top: The redesign of Tesoros in Makati; customized Claudio table; Sambokojin Project: lighting design by Mark Wilson and Nikki Escalona, interior design by Empire Designs.

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BUSINESS

Another Bag, Not My Own The lasting lure of secondhand luxury pieces in the market Words Bambin a O l ivare s Wis e I l lustrat ion R e e s e L an s an gan

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“Luxury” and “secondhand” make strange bedfellows when it comes to fashion. Before the secondhand market exploded, used clothing and accessories were divided into two categories: hand-me-down Salvation Army cast offs and vintage items.

In 2005, I was sent to Kenya

by WWD to investigate the secondhand trade. Ever wonder what happens to all those old clothes you gave away to charity?

The ones that didn’t end up in orphanages or thrift stores actually did make it to Africa, where they were arguably needed the most, considering the high rates of poverty prevailing on the continent.

However, instead of being distributed for free, the capitalistic instinct took over. The clothes were packaged in bales and offered wholesale through enterprising (and unscrupulous) middlemen to vendors who then flogged the clothes in markets to customers desperate for imported, branded, albeit used, clothing.

The trade became known as mitumba, after the Swahili word for “bale.”

Across Kenya, scoring a used Nike shirt, or indeed Nike kicks, gave a young boy instant street cred. A newborn baby swaddled in Fruit of the Loom onesies would be the envy of all mothers, while a denim jacket straight out of Target made anyone seem fly.

Despite some of the trendy labels I spotted— Miss Sixty, 7 For All Mankind, and believe it

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or not, Banana Republic and Ann Taylor—the open-air markets, with stalls mounted like bahay kubo on raw earth, were long on local color but decidedly short on ambience. That is, if you expect your shopping experience to come with a store atmosphere, which boutiques specializing in vintage clothing have in spades.

Back in the day, the savvy shopper knew where to go in Paris to score immaculate preloved Chanel suits, Valentino jackets, and Dior tops. The stores were called dépôt-ventes, quite literally places where you could consign your designer wares and sell them. Inside, the décor ranged from no-frills to eccentric to intimidatingly chic, and the treasures that awaited

discovery were incomparable.

And every smart neighborhood had a dépôt-vente; the 16th arrondissement brimmed with some of the best. My favorites then were Réciproque in Rue de la Pompe, where I found a Mani blouse (remember that line by Giorgio Armani?), and Dépôt-Vente de Passy in Rue de la Tour, where I chanced upon a shimmering green silk shantung Inès de la Fressange top that still looks amazingly soignée 20 years later—though the buttons could do with an update.

Today, the secondhand— oops, pre-loved—landscape has changed quite dramatically.

The granddaddy of vintage high fashion in Los Angeles, Cameron Silver of Decades, faces competition from established boutiques like Screaming Mimis in New York and relative upstarts such as Milan Station in Hong Kong, not to mention new online players such as Guiltless, a luxury consignment e-commerce venture based in Hong Kong recently launched

by Yen Kuok, the Stanford-educated youngest daughter of billionaire businessman Robert Kuok. What sets Guiltless apart from the competition is the combination of secondhand clothing with first-class service, which includes free international consignment pick-ups and luxurious packaging.

Ukay-ukay meets Net-a-Porter, in other words. Sign me up, please.

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