Cebu Living: 2015 October-December

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CEBU LIVING JULIE ALEGRADO

A lesson on spontaneity from a gracious host Page 14

KATE ANZANI

From the dĂŠcor to the fare, natural elements take the stage Page 16

MARGETTE SARMIENTO Open kitchens providing a new form of entertainment Page 18

AGEL GO

Setting the scene is her bread and butter Page 20

VOLUME 2 ISSUE 2

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CONTENTS EDITOR’S NOTE

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SOCIAL DIARIES An afternoon of al fresco dining as Cebu Living turns one

30 34

MARKET The modern gentleman’s indoor essentials

ARTS AND CULTURE The launch of a novelist’s memoir marks a triumphant return to her roots

FOOD A bistro’s take on lunch harks back to simpler times ON THE COVER: IMAGE BY JILSON SECKLER TIU

AVAILABLE ON DIGITIGAL NEWSSTANDS

“I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then, I just ate,” Julia Child once said. I think it’s safe to say that most people are partygoers, not planners. Letting guests into your home and entertaining them entail weeks of preparation and a lot of courage. “Put up the tree. Choose a holiday theme. Create a holiday menu…” and your Christmas to-do list could go on and on.

Thinking about it is already exhausting. But there is a certain rush, contentment, and pleasure in going through all the fuss just to throw a good party. Some say it takes particular skills to pull off; others even call it an art.

In this issue, we feature four ladies who have mastered the art of entertaining. Read on Margette Sarmiento’s memorable holiday stories, the rules of good hosting according to Julie Alegrado, Kate Anzani’s reverence for food, and Agel Go’s sacrifices to ensure every Cebuano will have a good time during the holidays. Pick up some tips as well to pull off stress-free holiday gatherings and make the rest of the year beautiful and bright.

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CEBU LIVING GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA MANAGING EDITOR DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS LEX CELERA, PRISTINE L. DE LEON, RENZ NOLLASE CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIÑA MUALLAM GRAPHIC ARTIST DANICA CONDEZ CONTRIBUTORS COLUMNIST JUDE BACALSO WRITER CHARLIE CARBUNGCO, BEVERLY DALTON STYLIST EDLENE CABRAL, CHARLIE CARBUNGCO HAIR AND MAKEUP ROLDAN ALBEJO, JAY CASTILLO, PATRICK FERNANDEZ, BULLET REYES PHOTOGRAPHERS GERIC CRUZ, ARTU NEPOMUCENO, JILSON SECKLER TIU BOARD CHAIRPERSON ALEXANDRA PRIETO-ROMUALDEZ FINANCE ADVISOR AND TREASURER J. FERDINAND DE LUZURIAGA

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MARKETING ASSISTANTS JR LAROSA, ERLE VIRGILIA MAMAWAL, JANNELLE TURIJA

CEBU LIVING

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SOCIAL DIARIES SOCIAL DIARIES

By RENZ NOLLASE

BASIC NECESSITIES

At Uniqlo’s first store opening in Cebu, a traditional Japanese ceremony offered a preview of what’s to come

Uniqlo has landed in SM City Cebu, bringing with it clothing that stays true to the Japanese virtues of simplicity, quality, and longevity. There to welcome the brand on opening night was a 500-strong horde of fans and eager Cebuanos uttering a collective “Finally!” at the brand’s arrival.

The enthusiastic crowd peppered the store in a standing-room-only event to witness the kagami baraki, traditional sake barrel breaking to usher in harmony and good fortune, and fashion tableaus of models poised in the brand’s most stylish pieces, a glimpse of the goods up for grabs for the night’s exclusive shopping experience.

Even elusive Cebuano men were in attendance, seeking the brand’s signature quality material and classic style while women stocked up on basics like cropped leggings. The long queue at the register that lasted well into the night showed just how long Cebuanos have waited for the Japanese brand to anchor in Cebu: 30 years to be exact.

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UNIQLO PHILIPPINES GENERAL MANAGER GERALDINE SIA, CEBU CITY NORTH DISTRICT CONGRESSMAN RAUL V. DEL MAR, UNIQLO PHILIPPINES CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER KATSUMI KUBOTA, DESIGNER KENNETH COBONPUE, AND UNIQLO PHILIPPINES CO-COO MASAYOSHI NAKAMURA

ANGELA MENDOZA, MIKAELA PACUBAS, AND KARA LIM

VICTORIA JORDAN, RON BRACAMONTE, AND PAOLO SARMIENTO

JANIKA GO, CHERYL ALBA, AND NIVIEN SOLEDAD

CHEZKA YAP, MEG ETEVE, ZEKE ETEVE

MICHAEL YU

LORENZ AND HANNAH FLORENDO

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SOCIAL DIARIES SOCIAL DIARIES

By LEX CELERA

A WEEKEND GATHERING Cebu Living gives thanks for turning one with a backyard grill GIRLIE BENITEZ, FATIMA RABAGO, AND RIA BOLIVAR IN JEWELMER

To celebrate Cebu Living’s first year, a Thanksgiving family food fair-complete with music, food, and good table settings to match-was set for everyone to join in, free of charge, at the verdant open area of 32 Sanson. Guests arrived just before the sun set, with more pouring in as the night continued.

The food selection was diverse, including great-tasting pizza from PizzaLab, homemade artisan ice cream from Scoops by Edrea, TAP 66’s mouthwatering lechon belly, TAHOtally’s flavorsome taho, delicious beef shanks from The Braiserie, sumptuous pastries from Kitskitchenn, good burgers from The Burger Nation, The Kitchen Project’s yummy tacos, Mad Chicken’s roster of good chicken sandwiches, bacon from Everything Bacon, Asoh BBQ’s mouthwatering chicken barbecue, and Charlie’s Chocolate Farm’s signature chocolate milkshakes. A cotton candy cart and a kid’s corner attracted kids and the kids at heart, and music by Adlib Band serenaded the crowd as the afternoon went on. Charity capped off the afternoon, when various giveaways and raffle prizes from HIP Events were given away. A portion of the food sales also went to WWF-Philippines and the Children of the Coast Foundation.

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DINERS CAME IN DROVES, AND THE VENUE EVENTUALLY HOSTED A CROWD OF 800 WINDING DOWN WITH GOOD FOOD AND MUSIC AT THE END OF THE WEEK

TO CELEBRATE CEBU LIVING’S FIRST YEAR, COPIES OF THE MAGAZINE WERE GIVEN TO GUESTS

CHILDREN OF BOTH DINERS AND CONCESSIONAIRES WERE GIVEN COLORING ACTIVITIES

LECHON BELLY BEING SERVED FROM TAP 66

HANNAH CUSI AND GABRIELE RAINE BALJAK

SOCIAL DIARIES

ANDRE ANTIGUA, LOVE QUITEVIS, KRISHTAL FREELAND, AND KYM MAITLAND-SMITH

HOLLY DYCHANGCO, GOLDA KING, DAVID JONES CUA, AND KATE UY

A BATCH OF HOMEMADE ICE CREAM FROM SCOOPS BY EDREA

KLOODIE CHIONGBIAN, JOE VINCE CAﾃ選ZARES, AND GAYLE URGELLO CHEOK

SUSAN AND BEE URGELLO

XACAH AND XADY CHANG

LIVE PERFORMANCE BY ADLIB BAND

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SOCIAL DIARIES SOCIAL DIARIES

HERE COMES THE BRIDE A long standing wedding tradition that simply refuses to fade away

Preceding the most anticipated wedding of the year is a bridal shower that had sparked as much amusement as the couple’s saying “I Do’s.” Alessandra Gavrielle Borromeo—known to many as Alessa—dons a white satin slip with matching robe, setting the scene for her slumber party-themed bridal shower.

Daughter of Gerardo “Dindo” Borromeo and Lisette Aberasturi Garcia, and now the wife of Francis Michael Alvez VI, the bride chose a theme suited for a bonding experience with her closest lady friends and relatives. Abiding by the dress code, most of the guests came in their favorite loungewear and pajamas.

The energetic Lisette Garcia—alongside titas y madrinas Marisse Serafica, Petite Garcia, Jeannette Zosa, Tess Cuenco, and cousins Kirsten and Inger Cuenco, Delice, Berdynne, Brigette, Lallie Garcia and Kyni Ho—hosted her daughter’s bridal shower.

With the help of event organizer Stanz Catalan, the Granada Salon of the Casino Español de Cebu was transformed into an intimate venue for a bride’s dream party: with beige and taupe as the dominant motif, Debbie Huang’s white roses adding their delicate touches to the space, and a queen-sized bed serving as a depository of the visitor’s gifts.

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ALESSA WITH CHRISTIANNE KUIZON, NINA ANGELI TIONGKO, DELICE GARCIA, BERDYNNE GARCIA, AND SUSIE SUMALINOG

GRACE LOZADA, LISETTE GARCIA, AND SUSAN SALA

NENA GARCIA, DR. LYDIA BIGORNIA, AND ROSE HENNESSY

KIRSTEN CUENCO AND MICA NAKAYAMA

ANNETTE MENDEZONA, TOOTS TORRES, NORA SOL, AND CATHEE BERNEDO

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ARTS & CULTURE

HOMEWARD BOUND Tess Neis returns to her roots for the launch of her second book

TESS NEIS’S PREVIOUS BOOK, MY OWN WINTER SUN, FOCUSED ON THE GLAMOROUS LIVES OF CELEBRITIES. BOTH OF HER BOOKS ARE INTENDED FOR LIGHT READING.

By LEX CELERA Illustration by DANICA CONDEZ A novelist returns to her homeland for the release of her second book, which, in a way, details the life of a woman living far away from her birthplace. Call it a homecoming of sorts. This December, Tess Neis will launch her second novel The Corner of Irrelevance in SM City Cebu.

“It feels really good. I believe little successes such as this should be celebrated in the company of family and friends who are all-out in giving their undivided support,” Neis shares. “It makes the whole exercise of launching a book more meaningful and more fun at the same time. Needless to say, it is also a very good excuse to come home.”

Currently residing in Sydney, Australia, Neis works for retail chain Harvey Norman as a national lease administration manager. She had teaching stints in various places in China and in the Philippines. Given her demanding job, it’s uncanny for Neis to be able to pump out two novels, but for her it’s a matter of just finding the time. “Almost always, the

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writing happens while I am on the bus or train on my way to work. Sometimes the germ of an idea can also hit me while I am in the middle of a lease review,” Neis says.

The novel begins with the persona, in middle age, reflecting on greatness, mediocrity, and death in the context of what has happened throughout her life— wide, sweeping arcs of thought pieces and musings, but mostly questions. The persona asks, “Is a life of mediocrity a life well lived? A life worth living?” Several chapters in and you will forget that these questions have been asked. It’s easy to dismiss these underpinnings and just enjoy the remainder of the novel, which in its bulk is an anachronistic, day-by-day reimagining of the unnamed character’s encounters, which are, needless to say, ordinary. Neis lists Jane Austen as one of her writing influences, and Austen’s penchant for the everyday, as well as an interest in women and their education bleeds in The Corner of Irrelevance. Yet Neis’s novel stands on its own, on its two

awkward left feet, easing the burden the novel’s heavier themes carry.

The novel’s self-deprecating tone can be cumbersome to read, given the admittedly slow-paced and ordinary encounters throughout the book. But the self-reflective narration tells of a yearning to be heard, of how a character known only through her relationships—as a wife, a daughter, and an employee—attempts to stand up and demand to be noticed and be taken seriously. Whatever tropes exist and persist in soap operas and telenovelas, you can expect in The Corner of Irrelevance. But be wary of falling into the lulling episodes of the protagonist who has no name, and instead notice the little struggles that contribute to the protagonist’s overbearing dilemmas. The unnamed protagonist, after all, carries her struggles as a woman of color. The Corner of Irrelevance is not a series of old wives’ tales, but an upbeat, heartfelt clearing of a throat, no matter how semi-autobiographical or fictitious the story is.

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COVER COVER STORY STORY

BE MY GUEST

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COVER STORY

COME AS YOU ARE As Julie Alegrado proves, the basic principle of hosting is to let spontaneity have its way

By PRISTINE L. DE LEON Images by JILSON SECKLER TIU

ACTIVE IN THE FOOD AND BEVERAGE DEPARTMENT OF THE RESORT, JULIE ALEGRADO CAREFULLY PLANS THE MENU OF THE EVENING AND SERVES INTERESTING EDIBLES LIKE HER TAKE ON SPICY CHOCORON.

“I have crazy friends, so we normally have crazy dinners,” says Julie Alegrado, once she’s done setting up a table where immaculate white touches meet native ornaments, the arrangement betraying none of the mayhem she has just implied.

At the Bluewater Maribago Beach Resort, which Alegrado helms, the dining table with a view of clear waters, partially veiled by thin white curtains, may well be your classic caricature of calm. She protests, however. “It isn’t usually like this. Normally, it’s crazy. It’s just lechon in the middle and we [eat with] our fingers,” she says, laughing. From her unusual food pairings to her spontaneous dinners by the sand bar, Alegrado’s charm lies in her candor and her penchant for all things crazy.

What do you mean when you say you want to be the ambassador of what Filipinos are all about?

If you’re familiar with the John en

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Marsha series, John and Marsha would give up their bedroom [when they have people over]. John would sleep on top of the refrigerator because they’d given up their bed for their guest. That’s very Filipino for me. [Here at the resort,] we do all to make sure that Filipinos are comfortable. Filipino is everything from how we treat our guest to how we love our children.

How often do you host dinners?

Normally, my hosting is done by the beach. We take out boats and go to a sand bar. We’d have a feast on the boat—a boodle on the boat! The lechon will be the centerpiece. We’d jump into the water, swim, go back, and have some more food.

That’s how I host normally. You can get this [usual table setting] in Manila and anywhere else, but if you take guests to a sand bar, on a boat, with a boodle where you eat with your fingers, that’s an experience they won’t forget in a long, long time.

COVER STORY

Hair by ROLDAN ABEJO of BENCH FIX

“Filipino is everything from how we treat our guest to how we love our children.”

And you prepare champagne there like you do here?

Yes, of course! I bring a lot of champagne.

That’s my drink of choice. Champagne, bubbly—I like Hava. I like wines [too]. My favorite now are the Bordeaux wines.

You said you don’t really cook. Do you get someone to plan the menu?

I don’t cook, but I do play around in the kitchen sometimes if I’m in the mood. I invented—well, I thought I invented it— the chocoron, which is chocolate-covered chicharon. [It came about when] I [was eating the] chicharon in a buffet and then started eating the chocolate cake with it, and it tasted so good! I called my pastry chef and said, “Can we put these two together?” Voila!

What kind of food do you usually serve? Is it all Filipino?

Of course, being Cebuano, my favorite of them all is lechon! I love sinful food. A good friend of mine set up a healthier, all-natural type of business: Pili and Pino. We ventured into jams, and now we have granolas. I experiment a lot with food. I usually come up with crazy stuff [even if I] don’t cook.

The chocoron was really a hit. The other one, before it became popular, is bacon with chocolate. Recently, Human Nature wanted to do something different like a trail mix.

I dried some rice, puffed it, [mixed in the] dilis, the fried fish, and added some beans and [slivers of ] dried mangoes. It’s the Pinoy Trail Mix. I think that’s the craziest thing I’ve done.

What are rules a good hostess has to follow?

If there are vegetarian guests, know their preferences before serving dinner—or at least have choices in the menu. Food is really important; I have to make sure that the people around me are enjoying what I serve them. Also, invite people who are fun. If I invite strangers, I should know the personalities of each one. I should know who will get along well with whom around the table. When everyone’s having fun, you’ll be more relaxed.

What is the perfect gift for a hostess?

When people ask me that, normally I just tell them to come. Their presence alone is a great gift. But if they bring wine along, hey, even better!

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NATURALIST HOLIDAY From table setting and décor to food, Kate Anzani reveres all things that come from nature Hair by PATRICK FERNANDEZ of BENCH FIX Makeup by JAY CASTILLO of MAC COSMETICS

By DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA Images by JILSON SECKLER TIU

“Other than being cooked well, food has to be made from good ingredients. I would always complain that our products are too small, but in truth, I’m so thankful that they’re small; [That means] they’re natural,” shares Kate Anzani, wife of Italian chef Marco Anzani and co-owner of the Anzani Group of Restaurants.

After getting sick from her most recent trip abroad because of ingesting genetically modified food, Anzani has made transparency in food provenance her mantra. And with the couple’s company known for all things epicurean, they are now cultivating pockets of herb and fruit gardens and a small mushroom farm in their own backyard. But apart from growing food, Anzani takes it to the next level by using real fruits as her festive décor.

Do you always have themes every year?

Yes. I work on the elements first. This year, I went with copper and stone, and I’m thinking of including wood as well. Last year, I went for the peppermint candy theme.

What’s one holiday trick you can share to make gatherings less stressful?

Once the guests arrive, you need to feed them and let them drink something. By doing this, you can take an hour longer in the kitchen as they’re still happily getting comfortable with each other. Because everyone is stressed these days, it’s important to give each guest the time to [bring down] their walls. I find that’s usually done within 30 minutes and after getting alcohol in their system.

Also, if you, the host, are stressed, your guests feel it too. If wine makes your nerves calmer, then by all means, down a glass of wine. For me, though, I prefer to drink after.

I’m very focused on cooking.

Do you have any holiday tradition that you religiously follow every year?

Making gingerbread. The holiday is on the 24th—obviously, that’s the Filipino way of celebrating Christmas. My sisters and I hold a gingerbread-making activity [for the kids] at around 8 p.m., then Noche Buena is at 9 p.m.

How do you usually serve the food? Is it buffet style or plated?

Christmas Eve is just family, Christmas Day is for everyone else. If there are more than 12 guests, I usually do restaurant sitdown service. If it’s more than 50, hell yeah, buffet style.

Describe your theme for this year’s holiday season.

I want to showcase my personal advocacy of real food. The wreath outside is wholly made from fruits. The Christmas tree is decorated with dehydrated slices of oranges and lemons. The red berries on the table are actual berries from the palm tree.

FROM TOP: KATE ANZANI PREFERS TO COOK HOLIDAY DINNERS WITHOUT THE HELP OF HER HUSBAND MARCO. IT SERVES AS A BREAK FOR HER HUSBAND WHO MANAGES SEVERAL RESTAURANTS; TO BREAK THE ICE, KATE USUALLY PREPARES POPOVERS WITH STRAWBERRY BUTTER.

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What’s your menu this Christmas?

I want holiday dinners to be home-cooked meals. I don’t care if it takes long to prepare, so one week before, we start preserving jams and compotes. Some are hard to find here so we try to get everything in before December.

This year, we’re having a ham hock. It’s still the leg of ham, but we’ll do it Italian style, which they call cotechino.

We have different menus. One is for Christmas Eve and one is for Christmas brunch, which starts at 10 a.m. Then after brunch, there’s a 2 p.m. snack. Usually, the leftovers from the night before are served for Christmas Day dinner.

COVER STORY

“I want holiday dinners to be home-cooked meals. I don’t care if it takes long to prepare, so one week before, we start preserving jams and compotes.”

GINGERBREAD HOUSES, THE FRUIT OF THE KIDS’ LABOR, ARE PUT ON DISPLAY (LEFT). EVEN PLACE CARDS ARE MADE FROM SCRAP WOOD (BELOW).

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“The host has to be the first one to relax, to be accommodating, and to savor the whole moment.”

Hair and makeup by ROMERO VERGARA

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COVER STORY

CONVIVIAL SETTINGS Margette Sarmiento makes every holiday gathering special with long-running traditions and creative surprises

By DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA Images by JILSON SECKLER TIU

As we enter a quaint white living room, made ornate with fresh flowers and a Christmas tree in one corner, a friendly Siberian husky and a little poodle, named Luna and Mo-mo (short for Moet) respectively, run down the stairs. Christmas is definitely in the air here; even the dogs feel the holiday cheer, greeting guests with so much warmth and openness.

Margette Sarmiento recently moved into this new house and will be celebrating her first Christmas here. Just like every year, December is hectic for everyone, but aside from the Christmas shopping and the parties left and right, she also has to prepare for her two sons’ birthdays, which fall right before the holiday.

If everyone’s here for the holidays, how do you make it less stressful?

I prepare way ahead of time. It’s really in the preparation.

What is the most memorable experience you’ve had?

Every Christmas, we always try to make a gimmick. Once, we decided to buy cheap but funny gifts. To me, that meant so much because there was a lot of humor and creativity in the gifts that we gave. [For example,] my son gave me this goblet that can contain the equivalent of one bottle of wine, because I love wine. Someone else received rolls of toilet paper because he stays in the bathroom really long. We try to get creative with things.

What’s the most important element in preparing for holiday dinners?

I think the table setting is the core of the celebration because everybody gathers around it. As you can see, the dining area is the core of my house. Everybody meets here so I try to make it as attractive as possible.

Can you describe the style of your table setting?

The plates that I used were inherited from my in-laws. I use them every year when we have our family dinner. This year, I decided on using roses to pick up the Victorian look of the plates.

How do you keep your space kid-friendly?

My children and grandchildren are already used to the process. They’re pretty trained, so they know what it’s like.

Do you have a holiday staple?

It’s basically the dishes I cook. I also serve a lot of tapas because they really enjoy them. I specially prepare angulas, baby eels from Spain; that’s my tradition. Then I have food coming in from the south of France and wine coming in from Spain. That would be the concept for this year: a Mediterranean feast.

How do you entertain when you’re not yet done cooking and guests start arriving already?

I purposely made the kitchen open so that when the food is not yet ready and I’m still cooking, I still get to be with the guests. They can be in the kitchen with me.

I make them watch me cook, and that’s part of my enjoyment.

MARGETTE SARMIENTO SOURCES FRESH FLOWERS FROM THE LOCAL MARKET FOR HER HOLIDAY DECOR.

Do you have a particular playlist during your dinners?

I particularly like Vivaldi, classical music.

But my children always change it to music of newer artists.

What’s your most important tip to a host?

It would be for the host to enjoy the whole setup, the whole experience, because a lot of them get nervous and fret. They end up not enjoying anymore. The host has to be the first one to relax, to be accommodating, and to savor the whole moment.

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COVER STORY

DOING THE GROUNDWORK How Agel Go makes Christmas gatherings more memorable for everyone else

By DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA Images by JILSON SECKLER TIU

“I started when I was in college, but it wasn’t that serous then. I just did kids’ [parties] for my friends,” Agel Go reminisces her beginnings in events planning. Her passion for it eventually grew and her little sideline turned into a real life profession, expanding to flower arrangements and set design for bigger and grander events like debuts, weddings, and corporate events.

After more than a decade of learning— then mastering—the ropes through trial and error, Go can now pull off an event for a client she has never met personally, discussing details with them only through Viber. Still, being a party planner entails great sacrifices because of the different demands of the job, something she also knows all too well.

What are the most usual parties you organize during the holidays?

It depends. I don’t know why, but there are different events [booked] this season.

They’re mostly birthdays, store openings, and corporate events.

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Did you ever encounter a bizarre request for an event for the “ber” months?

None. [People often request for] traditional Christmas themes—red, gold, green, or winter.

What are the most important things one should never forget when planning events?

First, you need to choose the perfect venue. Once you have the venue, you will know what kinds of tables [are available].

[From there], you can plan what kind of table setting to prepare. After I have seen the tables to be used, the design follows. I’ll know what props are workable in the venue. After that comes the execution.

Surely mishaps are inevitable during events. What is the greatest one you’ve experienced so far?

People stealing my props, even the big ones.

What was the biggest one that was stolen?

I saw some people bring home the luggage props for a destination setup. Also, an old

THE HOLIDAYS MAY BE A TIME FOR ENDLESS REUNIONS AND FEASTS, BUT FOR AGEL GO, IT MEANS JUGGLING DIFFERENT KINDS OF EVENTS.

woman tried to get the candelabra. They think they’re for free.

If November and December are busy for you, do you still have time to host dinners and reunions for your friends and family?

Not anymore, because of my hectic schedule.

If that’s the case, do you still have time to attend dinners and reunions?

I really make it a point to find time, but I cannot stay at the party for long.

If you were to create a Christmas event for you and your friends, what would be the ideal theme?

What’s ideal for me is something wintry: snow flakes, cotton, silver glitter. But it really depends on my mood and the venue, whether it’s indoor or outdoor.

COVER STORY

Hair by PATRICK FERNANDEZ of BENCH FIX Makeup by JAY CASTILLO of MAC COSMETICS

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STYLE

ACROSS THE UNIVERSE The forgiving fit of menswear apparel lends women a sense of casual elegance without restraint Styled by EDLENE CABRAL Images by GERIC CRUZ

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STYLE

BLAZER, P10,500; BLOUSE, P4,950; SHORTS, P5,950, ALL SINEQUANONE, RUSTAN’S, AYALA CENTER CEBU.

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Makeup by NATHAN FEROLINO Hairstyling by BULLET REYES

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COAT, P12,500, SINEQUANONE, RUSTAN’S. PANTS, P1,075, FOREVER 21, BOTH AYALA CENTER CEBU.

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STYLE

BLAZER, P9,500, SINEQUANONE, RUSTANS. TOP, P17,500, LAFAYETTE NEW YORK, RUSTAN’S. SKIRT, P1,995, DOROTHY PERKINS. ALL AYALA CENTER CEBU.

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STYLE

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MARKET

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: I AM DANDY BY ROSE CALLAHAN, P2,394 FULLY BOOKED, CHARCOAL CHINOS, P2,100, TOPMAN. MINI SPEAKERS, P1,200, LOUDBASSTARD, RUSTAN’S. KNIT SWEATER, P2,995, ZARA MAN. 9091 KETTLE, P15,854, ALESSI. MOCASSINS, P5,495, ALDO. GIFT SET, P2,150, ACCA KAPPA, RUSTAN’S. ALL AYALA CENTER CEBU.

DANDY REFINED Celebrate holiday traditions by toning down style without compromising sophistication

By LEX CELERA

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FOOD

TABLE FOR ONE

By JUDE BACALSO Creole groups, which are communities of mixed-race descendants of European colonizers, have a fascinating culture that appropriates the best of both branches of their heritage and, for someone like me with a background in genetics, a physicality (phenotype, in our parlance) that is deemed under scientific parameters to be quite superior.

So when the invitation from Singaporean writer Kurt Ganapathy came to slip away from the six-day itinerary of the Malaysian Tourism Hunt for a visit to the Portuguese settlement in Ujong Pasir, just five kilometers from our centrally located hotel, I happily took off.

The Kristangs or Malacca Portuguese have lived here since 1933, but they have existed since intermarriages among the locals and the Portuguese settlers began around the time Magellan arrived in Cebu at the turn of

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A KRISTANG MEAL IN MALACCA

Exploring the kitchens of Malacca that offers distinct yet familiar flavors

the 16th century. Their skin is a tight, even sheen of brown, beautiful in the glow of the Malacca Straits sunset. Their eyes are feline, almond-shaped and yet tip-tilted, especially on the younger generations who carry within them traces of Dutch and Indian heritages.

Russell, a boy who couldn’t have been older than 16, crouches on the ground sifting through today’s fresh catch. “We can’t sell the big fish in the stalls,” reveals Christopher de Mello, his uncle who brings in the fish every day. “No one orders a fish that’s too big because it would be a problem finishing it off. We give them a particular size, one that can be eaten in a sitting.” Fascinating insight from a Kristang fisherman, whose sister-in-law Claudina is now in the kitchen, preparing her grandmother’s baked fish, a prized family recipe that she serves in the 30-year-old seafood stall she now runs with her sister Defene Pinto.

DEBEL CURRY, OR DEVIL’S CURRY, AS IT IS MORE POPULARLY KNOWN

FOOD

The taxi driver who took us to the place for the estimated metered amount of P200, rattles off his favorite stalls. “Eight is good, and three. Also 10, very good.” Good for us, because Claudina’s J&J Corner (named after her mother Joan Sta. Maria and a late sister), was stall no. 10, at the very end of the seaside complex, closest to the playground.

Claudina emerges with a plate, the tin foil folded neatly to reveal a red snapper baked to her grandmother’s careful specifications.

“Most dishes are seasoned based on taste, but this one is done to exact measurements to get it perfect all the time.” Heeding the wisdom of her elders pays off nicely: the snapper is cooked exquisitely, tender with a nice sweetness that can only be had from fish that was alive just a few minutes ago.

The red curry is flagrantly spicy, perfectly spooned over rice, and drizzled with a little lime to balance the heat.

The perfect side dish is one that most Filipinos are familiar with, but never have I had it this way. The brinjal, or talong, is halved and scored on the inside in a pattern that reminded me of Chanel quilting, seasoned with salt and black pepper, and pan-fried until caramelized.

It is sweet, savory, with a perfect crispness on the surface and a softness inside that I enjoyed it without needing the vinegar

and soy sauce most Filipinos usually have it with.

Claudina’s calamari is a familiar one, served just like we do in Cebu: with a coating of flour and a spongy squid inside.

But it’s the dipping sauce I would fly back for. “We don’t want anything from the bottle, so we made one from scratch,” she says of the concoction that reveals the Chinese’ penchant for sweet and sour.

And as if in time for the holiday season—after all, Kristang is derived from the word “Christians”—the Curry Debel (or in a fitting play of words, Devil’s Curry) is rolled out. “It’s a tradition peculiar to mixed people of European heritage, like also those in Singapore,” reveals Ganapathy. “After Christmas, we don’t know what to do with the leftover meats so they are thrown into a pot and cooked into a curry.” Each family is known for their particular level of spiciness, some more cruel than others. Thankfully, the Sta. Marias are a kind bunch, and my heat-shy palate enjoyed a scaled-down version of the famous dish, even if it is the only touristy concession I will admit to.

Ah, the devil on a plate, served by Christians in a Muslim nation. The world is right again, but only after the third spice-laced burp.

FROM LEFT: PORTUGUESE BAKED RED SNAPPER, A FAMILY RECIPE OF THE STA. MARIAS PRICED AT RM35 OR P389; EGGPLANT SERVED PORTUGUESE-STYLE

Many thanks to Tourism Malaysia, Malaysia Airways Berhad, Proton, and Swiss-Garden Hotel & Residences Malacca. Should you find yourself in this part of Malaysia, visit J&J Corner Portuguese.

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KEEPING IT CASUAL

A straight-up dining joint brings back the pleasure of sandwiches for lunch

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: REUBEN SANDWICH; JAKE’S HOT CHICKEN; THE BAR-STOOL SEATING AND INDUSTRIAL OVERHEAD LIGHTING IS REMINISCENT OF ’40S AND ’50S AMERICAN LUNCHEONETTES.

By PRISTINE L. DE LEON Images by JILSON SECKLER TIU There’s an air of machismo evident in the new dining hub at Cybergate. As corporate chef Patrick Corpus puts it, should the dainty Abaca Baking Company have a son that would be The Luncheonette—boyish, brusque, yet charmingly well-mannered.

At 10 in the morning, when the mall has just opened, there’s already a group of burger-hungry folks seated on the leather stools by the counter, ordering brunch and addressing the cooks on a first-name basis.

“They’re here almost every day,” Corpus says.

The Luncheonette isn’t so much an authentic replication of luncheonettes in five and dimes abroad, but simply a reference to a time when people took it easy, savored their sandwiches, and initiated rambling conversations with a stranger just as hungry as they were.

“There’s a big, big difference between eating a burger on a white plate with a fork

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and knife, and holding it with your bare hands,” says Corpus. Diners forego their knives and forks after cutting up the burgers, then grab the bread with their bare hands.

There are certain unspoken rules on how to eat a burger, but Corpus educates us on how to prepare it right. For one, they make their ingredients from scratch. They smash the patty, creating a crisp outer layer that breaks when you bite. Sink your teeth deeper into the flesh, though, and it’s just as juicy.

The Patty Melt is made with just meat and caramelized onions. “Expats staying here would say ‘I haven’t tried the Patty Melt in 20 years. It’s like taking me back to my childhood,” says Corpus. There’s also the classic Reuben, sliced in half with its crunchy, lightly browned crust, delivering a sudden citrusy kick and the flavor of melted cheese.

Jake’s Hot Chicken, from its crunchy outer

portion down to the velvety feel of the greens and the hot, spicy insinuations, is a bold take on a classic burger.

“Burgers back then were something like that. You create nostalgia for the people who have actually tried it before,” says Corpus. Diners may remember the perfect burger from their childhood, from one of the stateside luncheonettes, or just from an episode in a cartoon show. Whatever the case, exhaust the bottles of mustard and ketchup at your disposal and eat with your bare hands if you’re feeling macho. “Bring your date, too,” Corpus quips. “It’s going to break the ice, and it’s going to be a different experience.”

The Luncheonette. GF Robinson’s Cybergate, Don Gil Garcia Street, Capitol Site, Cebu City.

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RECIPE INGREDIENTS

IN MINT CONDITION Indulge with a serving of Chocolate Mint Coulant paired with a scoop of your favorite ice cream

By CHARLIE CARBUNGCO Image by ARTU NEPOMUCENO

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2 eggs 5 tbsp. sugar 1/4 cup dark chocolate 1/4 cup butter 1/8 cup flour 1/4 cup fresh mint

PROCEDURE 1. Preheat oven to 215째C. Using a mixer, combine the eggs and sugar until it doubles the volume of the mixture.

2. Using a double broiler or bain marie method, melt the chocolate and butter together with mint.

3. In a bowl, use a rubber spatula to fold the melted chocolate with the flour until mixture becomes thick.

4. Brush a small ramekin with butter and flour.

5. Pour the coulant mixture into the ramekin and let it bake for 4-5 minutes.

6. After baking, carefully remove the coulant from the ramiken quickly and serve while hot. Pair it with vanilla or pistachio ice cream.

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