Northern Living: 2014 October by Hinge Inquirer Publications

October 2014 Volume 8 | Issue 14

PRESERVING FLAVORS

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CONT ENTS

NORTHERNliving GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA BRAND AND COMMUNITY EDITOR DIANNE PINEDA ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIÑA MUALLAM GRAPHIC ARTIST DANICA CONDEZ

20 COVER STORY Amy Besa brings New York famous Filipino restaurant, Purple Yam, to her old home in Malate

OCTOBER 2014 02 HEALTH Debunking Pinoy health myths through science

10 CRAFT The multi-functional coconut transforms into home décor

04 BEAUTY Take a trip down memory lane for beauty inspirations

12 FEATURE Restoration of a historic landmark gone wrong

05 FIXTURE Masked heroes in komiks save Pinoys from harm and boredom

34 EATS Capampangan restaurant serves heirloom cuisine Cover photo by Artu Nepomuceno

EDITOR’S NOTE Urban decay What does it really mean to restore a heritage site? Several historical buildings around Metro Manila, considered one of Southeast Asia’s oldest cities, have withstood the test of time, but not the nation’s negligence. Commercialism, alarming population growth, pollution, among other things, have contributed to the decline of what was once a grand city with rich architectural designs. At what point should we stop and rethink, what is the real value of a modern city filled with condominiums, malls, and impressive commercial buildings when traces of our history are left decrepit and destroyed? The halted restoration of the Army Navy Club sits at the tipping point of this conundrum. Opposing groups are pointing fingers while a hapless, demolished building is at a standstill. For

more information on this debate, log on to www.heritage.org.ph. In this issue, we take a look at the markers of our history, of what makes this place truly our own. Not all hope is lost, it seems. There are still people like Manuel Noche, an architect who seeks to spread awareness about our heritage landmarks. Amy Besa and husband Romy Dorotan of Purple Yam restaurant persist in serving traditional, locally-sourced Filipino food to support the chain of local suppliers, far-flung communities, and to simply reintroduce our culturally diverse cuisine. The conservation of historical sites is not simply an attempt to bring back the remembrance of things past, it is a longing to preserve a part of our identity as Filipinos—which is the one thing that is in most need of restoration.

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CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS BEVERLY DALTON, AJ ELICAÑO, KAT PATIÑO-MARQUEZ, SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO, CHINGGAY LABRADOR, ANDREA LIBUNAO, YVETTE TAN ILLUSTRATOR ALFRED DONOSO STYLISTS SAM LIM, MELVIN MOJICA HAIR AND MAKEUP EDISON ONG, ANGEL MANHILOT PHOTOGRAPHERS SAM LIM, GABBY CANTERO, EDRIC CHEN, JILSON SECKLER TIU, PAOLO BUSTAMANTE, EVERYWHERE WE SHOOT, ARTU NEPOMUCENO COPY EDITOR SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO PROOFREADER NAZRI NOOR EDITORIAL CONSULTANT RIA FRANCISCO-PRIETO BOARD CHAIRPERSON ALEXANDRA PRIETO-ROMUALDEZ FINANCE ADVISOR AND TREASURER J. FERDINAND DE LUZURIAGA LEGAL ADVISOR ATTY. RUDYARD ARBOLADO HR STRATEGY HEAD RAYMUND SOBERANO VP AND CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER IMELDA ALCANTARA SVP AND GROUP SALES HEAD, INQUIRER GROUP OF COMPANIES FELIPE R. OLARTE SALES DIRECTOR MA. KATRINA MAE GARCIA-DALUSONG KEY ACCOUNTS SPECIALIST ANGELITA TAN-IBAÑEZ ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ABEGAIL GINAGA, ANDIE ZUÑIGA, SARAH CABALATUNGAN, RAM TAN SALES SUPPORT ASSISTANTS RECHELLE ENDOZO, MARA KAREN ALIASAS ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DAPHNE SEE ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR PAM BROOKE CASIN SENIOR EDITORIAL/ PROJECT COORDINATOR RENEÈ ESPENILLA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS PRISTINE DE LEON, PAULINE MIRANDA ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES SHANNA MALING, HANNAH RAMOS, INA MATEO GRAPHIC ARTISTS AUBREY PORCIUNCULA, ROI DE CASTRO, TEJ TAN, YAYIE MOTOS PRODUCTION MANAGER NOEL CABIE PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MARICEL GAVINO FINAL ART SUPERVISOR DENNIS CRUZ FA ARTIST JR LAROSA

This magazine was printed responsibly using recycled papers with biodegradable inks.

HEALT H

LOCAL APOTHECARY Could feasible health fixes be found behind old wives’ tales?

superstition. Think of this as a signal to be extra cautious— when your immune system is down, you can pick up a fever, a cold, a cough, or a virus from virtually anyone you come into contact with.

TEXT CHINGGAY LABRADOR ILLUSTRATION ALFRED DONOSO

You’ve probably heard them from an old aunt, yaya, or your grandmother back in the province. Whether you subscribe to superstition or not, these folk tales need to be taken with a heap of salt—as well as a modern science-based perspective in order to determine if they actually exist. Myth: Paglilihi What it is: Craving for certain types of food while pregnant directly relates to what your baby will look like. Science says: While pregnancy cravings do exist, most probably due to the hormonal shifts in the body, an inexplicable taste for balut, for example, does not mean you’re going to end up with a kid with a full head of hair. Physical attributes are largely based on genetics after all. Myth: Usog What it is: Someone who carries the evil eye can curse a child with a simple greeting. To undo any hexes, the greeter needs to say “puwera usog,” then lick his finger and rub it on the baby’s abdomen or forehead. Science says: There’s no scientific evidence to dispel this

Myth: Hilot What it is: The ancients used this method to heal all ailments through massage and chiropractic manipulation. It was also sometimes infused with herbal remedies brought by arbularyos (faith healers). Science says: A deep tissue massage can bring much needed relaxation to stressed muscles, and today’s modern patient is often seen at the spa for a similar treatment, or even at the chiropractor to help reset joints and receive spinal realignment. These local practices aim to restore balance to the body through energetic healing that also goes beyond the physical. They offer a different approach towards the same end goal that more scientific methods aim to reach, too. Myth: Pasma What it is: When the muscles are rife with “hot” energy, it shouldn’t be brought down by anything too “cold” too quickly. This causes undue tremors or spasms to the body. Science says: Hot and cold energies are vague and not easily taken to by the scientific community. Instead, they attribute the shakes that pasma is known for to possible nerve conditions or dysfunctions in the body.

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BEAUT Y

SILVER SCREEN ICONS

Be inspired by the famous faces from the Golden Age of Philippine cinema TEXT BEVERLY DALTON ILLUSTRATION DANICA CONDEZ

Gloria Romero At the peak of Gloria Romero’s career, she was acknowledged as the queen of Philippine movies. She was introduced to the scene by her uncle, who worked as chief editor at Sampaguita Pictures. It didn’t take long for Romero’s beauty and talent to put her on top, and she was soon snagging award-winning roles in blockbuster movies such as 1955’s Dalagang Ilocana. The ’50s weren’t the end of her golden years, though: Romero went on to become one of today’s most respected actresses. Get the look: Born to a Filipino father and an American mother, her refined “mixed” beauty defined a decade. Her deep-set eyes and wide lips were what people took notice of, and her standard makeup was clean, with impeccably shaped brows and red lips. The trick to get this look is to keep the brows as thick as possible but well groomed. For the lips, opt for a matte red shade rather than a glossy one for that old world feel.

the ’60s, Pilita Corrales began her recording career in 1958 in Australia. She also holds the distinction of being the first Filipino female artist to make it in the Australian pop music charts. She performed regularly in stage shows at the Manila Grand Opera House and got to sing with internationally acclaimed artists such as Sammy Davis Jr. and Julie Andrews. With over 135 albums to her credit and an international profile, Corrales is one of the Philippines’ most celebrated singers. Get the look: Her look was dramatic and representative of the ’60s. Corrales had glowing skin, high-arched brows, nude lips, and graphic eyeliner. To make this look wearable today, simplify it. The eyes are the focal point of any Mod look, so try a small cat’s eye by adding just a flick of eyeliner at the outer corners of the upper lashline, and amp up the lashes by applying two coats of mascara. Just add balm to the lips to keep them Pilita Corrales Dubbed as Asia’s Queen of Songs in smooth and natural-looking. Fernando Poe, Jr. Known as “Da King” and famed for his action roles, FPJ started in the film industry as a messenger boy. He got his big break in the 1957 hit movie Lo Waist Gang. One movie led to another, with Poe in roles that pictured him as the champion of the poor, and his most iconic role is the notable character Flavio in the 1980 film Ang Panday. Get the look: The late actor is known for his short curly hair and sideburns, a look that was a distinct representation of the ’70s. Though they seem oldfashioned, sideburns are slowly resurging through hipster culture. Men of today can sport them by letting their facial hair grow for about four weeks. Once the desired hair thickness is achieved, shave accordingly. If your face is long and skinny, go for long and thick sideburns; if you have a rounder face, shave them short and thin.

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FIXT URE

LOCAL CRUSADERS

The man behind the masks and adventures of classic Filipino superheroes TEXT AJ ELICAÑO ILLUSTRATION ALFRED DONOSO

It would be a great disservice to Pinoy komiks if it were attributed to a single driving force, but among its pantheon of luminaries, Mars Ravelo is undeniably at the forefront. While he didn’t pioneer the local comics industry (that honor belongs to the Spanish occupationera editorial and newspaper comic strip cartoonists) nor can he be credited for spearheading the industry’s current form and development (the domain of the likes of Budjette Tan’s Trese and Paolo Fabregas’ The Filipino Heroes League), Ravelo was nevertheless instrumental in shaping the genre’s formative in-between years, giving it—and us—some of Philippine pop culture’s most recognizable characters in the process. Born on Oct. 9, 1916, in Tanza, Cavite, he first broke into comics with Rita Kasinghot in 1949, which was instrumental in the success of Bulaklak magazine. He followed this up with Liwayway’s Buhay Pilipino and Roberta, a long-form komiks novel that was published by Ace Publications before it was turned into a movie by Sampaguita Pictures. Ravelo is best remembered, however, for what he gave Pinoy komiks next: Darna in 1950, and a slew of other superheroic and fantastic characters in her wake—

Dyesebel, Captain Barbell, Lastikman, and many others. His characters were Filipino incarnations of the tradition of costumed adventurers that were defining mainstream Western comics, a new breed of Filipino heroes who fought larger-than-life battles on the home front. And these characters weren’t limited to the printed page, either. Decades before the start of the ongoing heyday of comic book movies, Ravelo’s works were already being translated to the silver screen, with Ravelo often serving as a (frequently begrudging) consultant. This komiks writer made such an impact on the Philippine film industry that he was awarded the Filipino Academy of Movie Arts and Sciences Life Achievement Award in 1984, for originating the stories whose cinematic adaptations shaped an imagination already primed by their written origins. In creating Darna and her contemporaries, Ravelo gave us more than just enduring characters—he gave us icons. Like Siegel and Shuster’s lone survivor of doomed Krypton, or Simon and Kirby’s all-American super-soldier, the village girl Narda, who uses a glowing white stone to become a heroine, is a narrative that has captivated Philippine popular imagination. Hers is a story that persists, a narrative that inspires, a hero we can call our own.

NORTHERNliving

NORT HERNER Manuel Noche restored his family’s house originally built in 1956. Furniture, gifts for his parents’ wedding, vintage toys, cameras, and appliances, are still intact.

MAN OF THE PAST

Manuel Noche calls for a continuation of our country’s legacy by preserving and restoring historical structures TEXT DIANNE PINEDA PHOTOGRAPHY EDRIC CHEN OF AT EAST JED ROOT

“I live in the Old World,” Manuel Noche says, as he gives us a tour inside his house which was built in the late 1950s. It wasn’t hard to see why, as the bungalow retained its original Mid-Century Modern design save for a few new appliances, while most of the furniture, accessories, and décor date back to the bygone era, giving off a nostalgic, familiar air. The architect and professor, donning crisp pants, a long-sleeved polo, and a bow tie, looked every bit like a proper gentleman. “Modern technology today makes people spend more. They make things look so attractive that they fool people into thinking that they really need them, and everything is so disposable,” Noche laments. But his sentiments do not mean that he is stuck in the past. He considers himself a progressive thinker, extending his penchant and advocacy of preserving history as an author and a trustee of the Heritage Conservation Society. “It’s not that I want to continue the lifestyle of the ’50s, I just appreciate what certain eras have to offer. It’s a very strong attachment to things that define who we are,” he shares. With this in mind, he has travelled all over the Philippines for over 30 years, looking through every nook and cranny for rare, undiscovered historical landmarks which are not in plain sight. He wrote Lonely Sentinels of the Sea, which talked about the Spanish lighthouses in the country, and Puentes de Espana en las Filipinas, highlighting colonial bridges found on different islands. “I wanted to do

something that nobody tackles. People were writing about churches and bahay na bato, but we have sources of our colonial past that nobody has documented,” he recalls. “They’re spectacular locations. We have all these legacies in our past, which are very sturdy, and time cannot surpass what the colonial masters were able to provide. And yet we don’t even take care of them.” Here in the Philippines, where Art Deco-inspired theaters and old 1920s buildings can still be found around Manila, most, if not all of them are abandoned and dilapidated. For Noche, what one considers trash can be another man’s treasure. “We look at them as old structures, as such, outdated and need to be replaced. Corruption, commercialism, and ignorance are causes of this,” he says. This is not to say that he wants to keep the structures as they are. He is adamant in finding some practical use for them while still preserving their legacy. “We have to find a compromise. An old house can be restored and turned into a restaurant. An old property can be integrated in a better master plan,” he says. While Noche continues to collect vintage memorabilia and uses his old talk and text flip phone, he is very much open to using modern tools to create awareness. “Different forms of media can help inform Filipinos. We should be proud of our country. We have 7,107 islands. Let’s not wait for the foreigners to discover them.”

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NORT HERNER

â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have to find a compromise. An old house can be restored and turned into a restaurant. An old property can be integrated in a better master plan.â&#x20AC;?

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CR AF T

OUT OF THE SHELL

From food to drink and now décor, no part of the coconut is wasted TEXT KAT PATIÑO-MARQUEZ PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING SAM LIM

COCONUT SHELL HANGING PLANTER

What you’ll need:

2-3 coconut half-shells, husk removed Abaca twine Drill Sand paper Protective glasses Varnish Small plants Pencil

Directions:

1. Using a pencil, mark on the coconut shells where to place drill holes for the twine. Using the same procedure, mark where the decorative holes will be drilled as well. 2. Using different-sized drill bits, drill holes where the coconut is marked in pencil. Make sure to use protective glasses. 3. Once finished, sand the entire shell using sand paper to smoothen surface. 4. Wash to remove excess dust and leave to dry. 5. Once dry, coat with varnish. Leave to dry. 6. When the varnish is dry, string the twine through the drill holes. Set one shell above the other so it hangs. 7. Place plants in shells and hang the planter.

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FEAT URE

FALL FROM GRACE NORTHERN living1212 NORTHERNliving

FEAT URE

How do you solve the problem that is the lack of foresight and respect for heritage? TEXT ANDREA LIBUNAO PHOTOGRAPHY PAOLO BUSTAMANTE

Before anyone knew what was happening, the deed was done. The art and politics of restoration When it came to light that the Manila Army and Navy Club Adaptive reuse is an arrangement the progressive conservationists was being redeveloped into a boutique hotel by Oceanville at the Heritage Conservation Society advocate for. It links Hotel and Spa Corporation, the old landmark found itself all historical properties to the present and gives it new life. The over the news. Coverage photos depicted construction trucks restoration involved, though, may be more challenging than surrounding the structure like accessories to a crime, with only building from scratch. A historical property’s main shield is still the National Cultural Heritage Act of 2009. It states that any the building façade left standing. More than a hundred years ago, the Manila Army and built structure older than 50 years is presumed an Important Navy Club began as an exclusive social club for American Cultural Property (ICP). This law makes it illegal to destroy, military officers. William Parsons designed it as part of Daniel demolish, mutilate, or damage any ICP; the corresponding Burnham’s grand urbanization plan for Metro Manila. After penalty is a P200,000 fine, a 10-year imprisonment, or both. hosting parties and stage plays for the In the case of the Army and Navy Club, elite, it went on to survive its designation the problem was that the developers were as a bomb shelter and evacuation center able to furnish clearances without strictly Restorations, when done during the Second World War. The adhering to procedures. This, in turn, haphazardly or without National Historical Commission of the probably led them to assume they could Philippines (NHCP) acknowledged get away with sidestepping a few more. expert advice, could these feats of cultural significance and Restorations, when done haphazardly destroy the integrity and declared it a national historical landmark or without expert advice, could destroy authenticity of a heritage on April 26, 1991. the integrity and authenticity of a heritage structure—the very reasons it’s Not long after its short stint as structure—the very things being restored in the first place. To do it Museo ng Maynila during the midit’s being restored for properly, one must be prepared to devote ’90s, the building finally succumbed a lot of work and spend a lot of money, to corrosion, weathering, and neglect. in the first place. and these are what some developers Palafox Associates, the architectural neglect. “The government should strictly firm tasked with its restoration, claimed enforce heritage guidelines and smart that if the structure’s damages were not zoning practices. They should also think twice about issuing addressed, the building would be in danger of collapsing. NHCP has attempted to reconcile the developer’s permits for the construction of malls and condominiums,”says intentions with public interest by describing the club’s current Paolo Bustamante, a blogger and heritage activist. redevelopment as “adaptive reuse.” This implies that Oceanville will not demolish the building and that their intention is to The aftermath restore the façade to its original design, while disaster-proofing “There will be a second presentation of Oceanville’s development plan on Oct. 2. The cease-and-desist order for the Manila Army and retrofitting the structure for hotel functions. But problems arose as soon as the process started. The and Navy Club will remain until it gets an approval,” Architect Manila City Hall and NHCP granted project clearances Wilkie Delumen, NHCP’s Chief of Historic Preservation has without seeing detailed engineering studies, and Oceanville stated in a text message. If given the green light, the project went underway with their demolition work, dismantling the will allegedly cost Oceanville P1.5 billion and a minimum of two annexes and stripping the main building of its floors and P300,000 monthly for the lease. windows, without providing a development plan first. They A cultural property is a tangible milestone that celebrates weren’t even sanctioned to touch the main building. When the identity of the people, shaped by realities of the past and Senator Pia Cayetano and the Heritage Conservation Society the possibility of a better future. And when the marks of our argued these points, NHCP issued a cease-and-desist order to growth and identity are gone, how would we even know that the developers. we made any progress at all?

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FEAT URE

PLATES THE WARESHOP.

SIDEWALK EATS Whether smoked, fried, boiled, or iced, the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s streets are home to inexpensive food that is rich in history TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY GABBY CANTERO

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FEAT URE

“Dirty” ice cream/sorbetes The sound of the bell ringing from the street is a childhood memory that reminds one of getting a sweet treat on a hot, sunny day. Dirty ice cream, as it is infamously called, is usually sold on the streets by vendors riding a four-wheel bicycle. Also called sorbetes, the ice cream was created to put excess fruit harvests to good use during summer. Food hack: Coconut milk is the secret ingredient to this cheap guilty pleasure, while some use carabao’s milk. It is then mixed with white sugar, egg yolk, and thickener. Unlike commercial ice cream that is processed through an ice cream maker, sorbetes is only whisked until a smooth texture is attained. It is then strained to ensure that there are no solid bits left. It is refrigerated until the mixture thickens and then mixed with a purée of a chosen flavor. After a quick whisk, it is chilled overnight and ready for selling the next day.

VANDALISM

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FEAT URE Kwek kwek and tokneneng Kwek kwek is a quail egg while tokneneng is a chicken or duck egg, both cooked in the same orange batter. It is said that it was accidentally discovered by a balut vendor after he dropped the eggs on the floor and tried to save it by frying what was left of it. Then it became practice that balut and penoy vendors would sell their leftover eggs from the night before to carinderias at a lower price for them to deep fry and serve with spiced vinegar. Food hack: The Pinoy tempuraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s breading is basically made of flour with cornstarch, water, salt, and pepper. The secret to its orange hue is not food coloring but annatto powder, which can be bought in local markets. Dip the peeled quail eggs into the batter and deep fry until crispy.

VANDALISM

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FEAT URE

Balunbalunan, isaw, and walkman In the Spanish colonial period, Filipinos, considered second-class citizens by Spaniards, were deprived of decent meals. The Spaniards kept the prime cuts of pork, chicken, and beef to themselves and gave away the restâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including animal innardsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to Filipinos. With intentions to create something appetizing, our ancestors cleaned these parts, skewered them into bamboo sticks, and grilled them also inventing a special barbecue basting sauce for flavor.

Food hack: Make sure to clean the balunbalunan (chicken gizzard), isaw (pork or chicken intestine), and walkman (pigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ears) thoroughly. Apart from water, put white vinegar, peppercorn, salt, garlic, bay leaves into a pot. Bring to a boil for 30 minutes. Gizzard needs an extra 15 minutes to cook. Drain the water and let it cool down. Skewer the innards and prepare the basting sauce, which is a combination of soy sauce, water, sugar, ketchup, and sugar, for grilling.

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COV ER STORY

THE HERITAGE OF TASTE

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COV ER STORY

MAKEUP ANGEL MANHILOT.

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COV ER STORY

Purple Yam Restaurant works with Enderun Colleges and De La Salle-College of St. Benilde to look for young culinary graduates with a passion for cooking Filipino dishes.

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COV ER STORY

For Purple Yam Malate’s Amy Besa, going back to our roots is the way (of cooking and dining) of the future TEXT YVETTE TAN PHOTOGRAPHY ARTU NEPOMUCENO

“One of the goals I have at Purple Yam Malate is to be a here, all they grew was lettuce. It became such an adverse lab and a training ground for future chefs who look at our reaction for me to see it. Why aren’t people growing ingredients and our cuisine as a very basic requirement in alugbati? Saluyot? Sayote tops? order to be a successful culinary professional,” says Amy Besa. The restaurant opened in July after Chef Romy Dorotan, Whenever people mention Purple Yam, especially in the Besa’s husband, spent two months setting up the system and United States, the first thing that usually comes to mind training their impressively young kitchen staff. “They were is adobo, and how no two families have the same recipe. all assembled because there was one criterion: you have to be Can you tell us what you think makes an adobo? passionate about Filipino food,” Besa says. “They’re all under For me, the definition of adobo is “cooked in vinegar.” 25. New graduates, but you know, they’ve stepped up to the Tapos lalagyan mo ng garlic and all that, but the use of plate and I am very, very happy and very blessed. I feel very soy sauce is a later development. It’s a Chinese influence because the original adobo used just salt. There are a lot of lucky that I have a team like this.” Purple Yam Malate is the Philippine branch of Dorotan people who look down on adobo with soy sauce. And the variations are, if you go down south, and Besa’s popular Brooklyn restaurant for example, they use a lot more of the same name. “Of course, the “My mission is to make coconut milk. challenge is to run two restaurants because our restaurant in New York is Filipinos aware of how Why is it important to preserve local still going.” she says. “That’s a question beautiful our country ingredients and recipes? people ask, and we say that we’ll answer is, how delicious I’m big on preservation for two main that when we cross the bridge when we reasons. One is health. It’s healthier get to it.” our food is. Don’t to eat what’s locally grown, unlike The restaurant’s bigger goal, underestimate it. Don’t processed food or fast food. I have however, is to promote regional nothing against mass-produced food recipes, local products such as salts under-appreciate it.” because you need to mass produce and vinegars, as well as heirloom food to feed masses of people, and if plants and grains and meat from heritage breeds. This has resulted in a menu that is as there are companies that produce that with integrity and delicious as it is colorful. At Purple Yam Malate, every dish, [the intent of ] making food healthy, then why not? But I every condiment tells a story of the archipelago, and it is think if we preserve what we have, then we are in a better exactly these stories, told through taste, temperature, and environment because we will keep all our greens and our fruit trees, our nut trees—we won’t cut them down [to] heart, that Besa and Dorotan are intent on preserving. build condos. We need greens both for our environment and our health, and I think that that is one way that Why did you decide to open Purple Yam Malate? We are near retirement age and I feel life is too short to Filipinos can earn livelihood. waste. I know that in the next stage of my life, I will find my happiness in my home country because this is my people, You subscribe to the belief that the best way to my country, my culture; this is where I am at home, and I preserve something is to make it marketable. Please know I can do a lot of things here. As I’ve said, my mission tell us more about this. is to make Filipinos aware of how beautiful our country is, In the United States, I have been involved in these how delicious our food is. Don’t underestimate it. Don’t movements to go back to organic, going back to heirloom. Recently, [it’s about] going [back] to heritage under-appreciate it. We have one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world, meats. The mantra was, you have to eat it to preserve which means we can grow anything 12 months a year. There it. I said, “That makes sense, because if you eat it, then are all sorts of herbs and plants you can use for salads; you you buy it. And if you buy it, whoever makes it or don’t have to eat [just] lettuce. When we serve salads here, grows it will have income and it will have a commercial we never use lettuce. I’m making that statement because value. The markets will respond and suppliers will also there was a time that whenever I would visit an organic farm respond. So if you don’t eat it, you don’t buy it, why

NORTHERNliving

COV ER STORY Amy Besa partners with universities to set up community kitchens, which aim to encourage exchange of traditional and new cooking techniques between students and the locals.

would someone grow it?” I think this is what happened to a lot of properties that people had. Before, every household had trees in their backyard. Everybody had cacao, suha, or aratilis, all those fruits that no one really buys. Those are childhood fruits: camachile, macopa. Now, it’s hard to find them. All those fruits that I used to take for granted as a child, they’re all very hard to find now because they have no commercial value. Please tell us about Ang Sariling Atin Culinary Heritage Institute, the organization you set up to promote local cuisine. I have two goals. One is to do scientific-based research, and I’m partnering with universities such as Philippine Women’s University and some people from University of the Philippines Los Baños. The second aspect is the more practical application of the research, which would be to set up community kitchens. I am hoping that in many areas, people would set up community kitchens that will use all these local products, and the kitchens would be run with sanitary standards, with good skills. I was thinking of even partnering with culinary schools to send some of their best students to these areas, train people in life skills, sanitation, and all that. In turn, the locals could teach them about the local food and local ingredients. They can collaborate and serve really good local food from that area. I don’t know if I can accomplish that within my lifetime, but I’m hoping that if I talk about it enough, people will do it. Why is placing value on local producers important, and how can we do this consistently? People are more aware now, but there are two stages to this awareness: one is understanding what we have and

appreciating it, and second is the willingness to pay for it. If we tend to cheapen everything—[for example] I want kakanin but I’m not willing to pay more than 10 pesos for it, then that kakanin maker will feel very undervalued and, at one point, will stop making good kakanin. If everything is done properly, I am willing to pay for it. But that would mean being more interactive and more invested in what you encounter in the food world, and I don’t know if everybody has the energy and the time to do that. If you do, though, then that would be great. More people can do that. What do you wish Filipinos did more, culinary-wise? I would encourage them to eat heirloom rice, because all you need is a small amount and you’re already full, as opposed to eating empty rice that’s all pure sugar and starch. Then you really tend to eat a lot. How has Manila received Purple Yam’s culinary philosophy? It’s great because a lot of people now want to buy the rice, the vinegars, the honeys, the salts. Now, we are in the process of trying to package them so we can sell them retail. What advice would you give to young people who want to enter the culinary industry? Whenever I am asked to speak at a culinary school, I always tell them [that] being a famous chef is not something that people should aspire for, that it’s a useless goal. It would be much better if they turned out to be better cooks—skilled, sensible cooks who know their roots and know their own palate, so when they make their dishes or they cook their recipes, they’re not robots. When you look at a recipe, as long as it’s processed through your sensibilities, your sense of aesthetics, and your palate, then it’s yours.

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MP 75

COV ER STORY Amy Besa returned to the country after 20 years and restored their old family home (right). Purple Yam uses ingredients from different regions (extreme right). Their best-selling salad uses mangosteen as dressing (below). A young trainee grills beef (below, right).

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COV ER STORY

“I know that in the next stage of my life, I will find my happiness in my home country because this is my people, my country, my culture; this is where I am at home, and I know I can do a lot of things here.”

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EATS

Capampangans are known for welcoming their guests with an assortment of food on the table—with or without an occasion.

THE FILIPINO FLAIR

This restaurant’s traditional recipes hail from an old fishing town in the north TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY SAM LIM

Sunlight gently enters through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the dining area. Classic Filipino songs are played in the background. Wooden chairs and tables made from Pampanga and framed local artworks can be seen inside the Pinac Heirloom Capampangan Cuisine. You’ll get a sense of dining in an ancestral home in Candaba, Pampanga, a small town known for fishing as their livelihood, as you take in the restaurant’s homey, nostalgic vibe. In fact, Pinac is an old local term for “swamp” or “farm.” Pampanga, a province three hours away from Manila, is considered as one, if not the best culinary mecca in the country. Expectations of traditional flavors and innovative Filipino cooking techniques are always high when new Capampangan restaurants open in the metro. Angel Pelayo, owner of Pinac, shares her passion for the food she grew up with and is proud to introduce it to customers, “We offer both hearty and Capampangan staples and reinvented Filipino comfort food.” The recipes are from her grandmother, who has perfected traditional

cooking techniques over time. Family members are also involved in the restaurant, especially in maintaining the quality of food they serve every day. “I asked my uncles to train the staff for six straight months prior to the opening. On the other hand, my dad checks the kitchen every now and then for consistency,” Pelayo shares. The bestsellers are homegrown Candaba cuisine such as the crispy hito balls with burong dalag and mustasa. But tweaking classic Filipino food is their strength. The regular bangus belly is paired with aligue risotto and the smoked beef tadyang is served with yellow mango and corn chutney to give it a modern and sophisticated flair. “Our kitchen tries to incorporate different methods of preparation and flavor combinations to keep the food items we all know so well, fun and exciting,” Pelayo says. Executive chef Niño Laus comes up with three to five new dishes monthly, and Pelayo recommends, “Porchetta stuffed with bringhe for meat lovers. For those who prefer seafood, the ginataang panga ng salmon kabutoni style as well as mesquite smoked dory with palabok linguine should be on your list.”

Pinac Heirloom Capampangan Cuisine. Second floor, UP Town Center, Diliman, Quezon City. 775-9450.

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RECIPE

HEARTLAND TABLE

Simplicity is what makes this Filipino favorite our country’s most beloved dish TEXT KAT PATIÑO-MARQUEZ PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING SAM LIM

TRADITIONAL ADOBO INGREDIENTS

1/2 kilo pork cubes 1 cup soy sauce 3/4 cup vinegar 1 cup water 5 garlic cloves, smashed 2 bay leaves 1 tsp. whole peppercorn Cooking oil

PREPARATION

1. Place pork cubes, soy sauce, vinegar, water, garlic cloves, bay leaves, and peppercorns into a pot. 2. Place over medium heat until boiling. Lower heat and leave to simmer. 3. When pork is tender (about 1 to 1 1/2 hours), remove from heat and set aside.

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4. Place cooking oil into a frying pan on medium heat. Gently place pork cubes into the pan, leaving out the sauce. 5. Fry pork cubes until edges are crisp, then add 1 cup of the sauce. Simmer for 2 minutes. 6. Remove from heat and serve.

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