November 2015 Volume 10 | Issue 3
GATHER
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CONT ENTS 26
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COVER STORY Tracing the heritage of a forgotten grain
STYLE Breaking the rules
Cover photo by Tammy David 46
NOVEMBER 2015 04
EATS Round-theworld cuisines in a Marikina hideout
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HEALTH Curbing your cravings by mastering the palate
CRAFT Holiday décor from simple string and straw
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42
FIXTURE Necessary changes for breathing space
MARKET Tools for those with a green thumb
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BEAUTY A distortion of beauty
THE GET Relishing intervals with dreamy soaks
EDITOR’S NOTE Natural Selection We eat what is readily available in our local markets and commercial supermarkets. Most are imported and mass-produced. The Philippines has 7,107 islands and is known globally as one of the 18 megabiodiverse countries. So, why is there a need to import food when it is abundant in our country? Why are we still not self-sufficient? Do these questions have to be answered by producers or consumers? In recent years, food emerged as a talking point, thanks to growing concerns over its origin. We do not fret about the possible shortage or surplus of food; instead, we are
starting to ask more daring and substantial questions: Where does our food come from? What do they put in our food? How is our food made? Does it have nutritional value? With the increase in demand for clean and fair food, producers, too, have been more conscious of their farming techniques. And entrepreneurs try to find the best possible products to offer in local markets. Demand for more information. Demand for good food. Take part in the solution to the shortage of local goods in our markets.
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Northern Living is published by Hinge Inquirer Publications. 4F Media Resource Plaza, Mola corner Pasong Tirad Street, Barangay La Paz, Makati City. Visit www.facebook.com/ northernlivingmagazine now. Follow us on Instagram and Twitter at @nlivingph. We’d love to hear from you. Email us at nliving@hip.ph. For advertising, email sales@hip.ph. This magazine was printed responsibly using recycled papers with biodegradable inks.
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Hi! I love your story on portraits. It’s true that they capture more than the usual cam selfie. But the photos in your magazines are beyond! I love them! Keep up the good work. I can’t wait for next month’s copy. Micah Locsin
GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA MANAGING EDITOR DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS LEX CELERA, PRISTINE L. DE LEON RENZ NOLLASE CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIMU MUALLAM GRAPHIC ARTIST MAYSIE LECCIONES STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER PATRICK SEGOVIA CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS CHARLIE CARBUNGCO, PAM BROOKE CASIN, OLIVIA ESTRADA, DEVI MADRID, KAT PATIÑO-MARQUEZ, INA AMOR MEJIA, ROMEO MORAN, APRIL RAMIREZ, YVETTE TAN ILLUSTRATORS MARTIN DIEGOR, PATRICIA ESPINO, REESE LANSANGAN STYLISTS INA AMOR MEJIA, MELVIN MOJICA HAIR AND MAKEUP JAN EDROSOLAN, APPLE FARAON PHOTOGRAPHERS CHISSAI BAUTISTA, GABBY CANTERO, TAMMY DAVID, INA AMOR MEJIA, RALPH MENDOZA COPY EDITOR SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO PROOFREADER ROMEO MORAN EDITORIAL CONSULTANT RIA FRANCISCO-PRIETO CUSTOM ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITORS PAM BROOKE CASIN, ANGELA VELASCO EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS TJ BILLONES, PAM CARLOTA, PAULINE MIRANDA, CHRISTELLE TOLISORA ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES SHANNA MALING, INA MATEO, GENE PEREZ GRAPHIC ARTISTS ROI DE CASTRO, TEJ TAN, YAYIE MOTOS, JAYCELINE SORIANO, JANINE ALCANTARA PRODUCTION MANAGER JAN CARIQUITAN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MARICEL GAVINO FINAL ART SUPERVISOR DENNIS CRUZ FA ARTIST KRISTINE MAY PAZ BOARD CHAIRPERSON ALEXANDRA PRIETO-ROMUALDEZ FINANCE ADVISOR AND TREASURER J. FERDINAND DE LUZURIAGA LEGAL ADVISOR ATTY. RUDYARD ARBOLADO HR STRATEGY HEAD RAYMUND SOBERANO VP AND CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER IMELDA ALCANTARA SVP AND GROUP SALES HEAD, INQUIRER GROUP OF COMPANIES FELIPE R. OLARTE AVP FOR SALES MA. KATRINA MAE GARCIA-DALUSONG SALES SUPERVISOR POLO P. DAGDAG KEY ACCOUNTS SPECIALIST ANGELITA TAN-IBAÑEZ SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ABBY GINAGA, THEA ORDIALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANDIE ZUÑIGA, SARAH CABALATUNGAN, CHARM BANZUELO SALES SUPPORT ASSISTANTS RECHELLE ENDOZO, MARA KAREN ALIASAS MARKETING ASSISTANTS ERLE VIRGILIA MAMAWAL, JANNELLE TURIJA GRAPHIC ARTIST LEE CACES, JR LAROSA
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HEALT H
TASTE TRAINING
added sugar (e.g. pancakes with syrup, and cereal). This is going to be tough, but once you get into a routine where you actively select non-sugary food options, you’re on the right track.
Reprogramming the palate to crave healthier food TEXT KAT PATIÑO-MARQUEZ ILLUSTRATION REESE LANSANGAN
Ice cream, Cheetos, M&M’s, instant noodles—we’ve all craved for these one time or another. Even if these indulgences are kept on a once-a-week basis, that oncea-week can quickly turn into once-a-day. Before you know it, you’re eating cookies today, munching on Doritos tomorrow, and devouring bagnet after that. Why do we crave for unhealthy food so often? It’s because it’s what our palates are used to. Once you start consuming salty or sugary food on a regular basis, it inevitably develops into a habit. Thankfully, like any bad habit, there are ways to kick it. Sure, it’ll take a lot of discipline, but it works to stop the vicious cycle of picking up a bar of chocolate every time you’re feeling stressed or low. Here are some steps you can take to reset your taste buds to crave healthier food options. Cut back on the sugar We’re not just talking about the occasional ice cream cone or chocolate bar. If you can, try to reduce sugar in all of your food and drink intake. That means leaving it out in your coffee, avoiding iced teas and sodas (especially sodas!), and shying away from food with any
Ditch processed food completely Processed food changes the way our palates react to food. Because of the high salt, sugar, and fat content in processed food, anything without the same high-level content won’t be as “tasty” to us. So, to go back to liking whole foods again, kick processed food out the door. This includes processed sugars (as mentioned earlier), fast food, canned goods, chips, hotdogs, bacon, pasta, and white rice. It may be a lot to let go of, but this will make a huge change in your taste bud reprogramming and your health. Start consuming whole If you’re one of those people who have difficulty cutting back on rice, that’s okay—there’s an alternative. Whole foods like brown rice, whole grain pasta and bread are great additions to your diet when you’re doing a palate detox. Not only are you reducing your sugar intake, you’re also consuming additional fiber and getting your palate used to the taste of healthier food. This is also a great time to start eating more vegetables and fruits. Try adding a salad with every meal (with homemade dressing, of course) and having fruits for snacks. After a good few weeks of consuming only whole foods, you won’t even crave for the bad stuff anymore.
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FIXT URE
GOOD MIGRATIONS
How moving out of the city could save your sanity TEXT APRIL RAMIREZ ILLUSTRATION PATRICIA ESPINO
Moving about in the metro has become an unmitigated migraine. Traffic is almost always at a standstill, there’s a crush of people everywhere, and “Carmaggeddon” and “Commutageddon” have now become buzzwords. And with Christmas coming soon and consumers about to go on buying blitzes, it is only bound to get worse. The Land Transportation Office lists a total of 2,101,148 motor vehicles registered in the National Capital Region in 2013 alone—that should give a picture of how many vehicles are running on metro roads at any given day. Let’s talk living, too. There’s now a lack of decent living space that’s affordable with an ordinary Joe’s salary. Rental fees, especially in highly commercialized areas, cost an arm and a leg, and condo units with a lower pricing range offer not much more than space for a bed, a bathroom, and
maybe a hat stand. Even developers are running out of land to put up viable residential projects, resulting in anomalies such as the much-publicized photobomber of the Rizal Monument. What’s more, the air quality, along with practically everything else, has become hazardous to health. In a presentation at the Nasal Care Awareness forum in Quezon City last June, Department of Environmental and Natural Resources-Environmental Management Bureau (DENR-EMB) assistant director Eva Ocfemia reported that the air pollutant concentration in the National Capital Region has reached 130 micrograms per normal cubic meter (µg/Ncm) in terms of total suspended particulates (TSP), up from 106 µg/Ncm at year’s end in 2014; for comparison, the maximum safe level of air pollutant concentration is 90 µg/ Ncm. This means we are breathing in more than our
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FIXT URE
fair share of pollutants and irritants called particulate worsening congestion situation. matter, or PM, that come from combustion products; Both sides are accessible via the NLEX and the SLEX, the result of space heating, industrial processes, and both are now gearing up for commercialization and power generation, and motor vehicle use. settlement via the setting up of schools and hospitals. Studies from the World Health Organization say Xavier School has a campus in Nuvali, for example, that pollution, particularly from PM that can find and De La Salle also has one in Canlubang, both in its way deep into lungs, is to blame for 3.2 million Laguna. In short, families with kids can live there and preventable deaths every year. Worse news is there thrive. Also, unlike years ago when rural folks had are not enough trees in the metro to offer even a sigh to make a pilgrimage to major malls like SM North of relief, as they are mostly in pocket parks. And in Quezon City or the Quad in Makati, commercial what’s left of bigger, leafier areas are already being areas complete with supermarkets, restaurants, and considered for commercial and real estate purposes. even branded outlet stores now make shopping closer There is simply less space to breathe freely. to home. The rains also bring the For yuppies who other perennial problem: struggle with getting to flooding. What was once Makati or Ortigas on time confined to areas such as every morning, the good “To keep our sanity and health Malabon and Navotas has news is that there is also now become a problem employment available at intact, to keep body and soul in main thoroughfares. the capital’s outskirts with The inadequacy of proper industrial parks and locators together, it might be worthy drainage systems as more for the BPO industry to consider making a move; infrastructure rises is moving certain operations part of the problem. into areas outside of Metro packing our bags and settling Informal settlers dumping Manila. The morning everything including the commute in these rising somewhere else.” kitchen sink in esteros is corporate centers would another problem in itself. probably be only around The city is simply giving 30 minutes, a Sunday drive out. What was once a compared to the three hours beautiful and thriving hub of art deco buildings and usually spent on the city’s roads. well-kept public parks is succumbing to urban decay, the Those who dream of making an impact can even faded glory evident in the nostalgic Facebook posts of consider starting and growing a business in these premier urban planner Paolo Alcarazen. Metro Manila new communities, which can help provide local is a crowded megalopolis, with a population of 16.5 employment, lessening the need to move to Manila in million people as of 2010 and a population density that search of better economic opportunities. Another good has increased from 11,900 people per square kilometer result: even less congestion. to almost 13,000 between 2000 and 2010, according to Yes, the superclubs here might miss your presence, but a World Bank study. a fantastic tradeoff would be a clear view of the night sky, The question now is, what are we to do? To keep our no garish billboards, no too-bright LED lights. Mornings sanity and health intact, to keep body and soul together, are easier and unhurried, and you might get to feel like it might be worthy to consider making a move— belonging in a community once again instead of the meaning packing our bags and settling somewhere social disconnect that marks city living. Think back to the else. This isn’t about falling off the radar: a move can times when you went on an out-of-town trip and found go either north to outlying areas such as Bulacan or tranquility and a laid-back vibe that you loved so much. to the south where there are upscale and well-planned You dreaded going back to the urban jungle. Now, think communities sprouting up in anticipation of the about living like that every single day.
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BEAUT Y
OF STRENGTH AND SINEW
When it’s never enough, the reflection you see may be distorted TEXT ROMEO MORAN ILLUSTRATION MARTIN DIEGOR
In an age where society has put one of the highest premiums on health and fitness, have you ever stopped to wonder if you’re working out and eating properly for the right reasons? Sure, we spend hours exercising and painstakingly counting calories to both look and feel good, but there are some people who do it to make up for some crippling insecurity. Although those of us who have gotten into the healthy lifestyle have done so because of an insecurity, are you sure you’re not killing yourself overdoing it? If you’re overworking and pushing your body to the limit trying to look a certain way, then you may have body dysmorphic disorder (BDD). Put simply, it’s when a person is too preoccupied with a physical flaw or defect that’s either imagined or blown out of proportion, resulting in a perceived sense of ugliness. In extreme cases, he or she resorts to drastic measures such as plastic surgery to change the way he or she looks. It’s where a lot of body image disorders stem from, and both men and women are susceptible to it. While this is commonplace—cautionary tales of people trying to look a certain way have, unfortunately, become the norm in this century—there is a certain offshoot of BDD that doesn’t get enough attention. It’s a brand of BDD (and perhaps obsessive-compulsive disorder) that largely affects men called muscle dysmorphia, also known as megarexia or bigorexia. It’s when males are overly concerned with attaining a
muscular appearance even when they already look fit or muscular; muscle dysmorphia causes one to think that he or she is still small and weak. It starts affecting men (and also a percentage of women) in their late teens, usually when they begin to have access to weightlifting, and estimates of men affected number in the hundred thousands. Athletes are likely to be affected by a body image disorder because of the correlation between how they look and how they perform in sports. People affected with muscle dysmorphia also tend to have low self-esteem that’s tied to their physique—they could have been either too thin or too fat during their formative years. It could be as innocuous as a guy constantly checking his body out in the mirror, or as extreme as skipping work or social events because he’d rather work out. What’s worse is that in their minds, they could never achieve the look they’re aiming for, worsening their self-esteem and sense of self-worth. Like with most body image disorders, there’s no magical cure for muscle dysmorphia. Right now, the only way to combat it is to retrain how an affected person thinks about himself and approaches exercise, often through cognitive-behavioral techniques and therapy. What’s also important is that gym buffs who may be spending too much time pumping iron should be aware, so they don’t end up falling further into the trap.
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CR AF T
MODERN WHIMSY
Paper straws reincarnated as kitsch Christmas tree ornaments TEXT, STYLING AND PHOTOGRAPHY INA AMOR MEJIA
STRAW ORNAMENTS
What you’ll need: Stiff plastic or paper straw White string Scissors Directions: 1. Cut the straw into 12 two-inch long pieces. Note: The longer the pieces are, the bigger the ornament. 2. String three pieces together, then tie them at a point to form a triangle. Do not cut the string. 3. String two more pieces to form a diamond, and add one more piece to stick out on one point on the side. Cut the string but leave allowance. 4. Create a second piece of the exact same shape. You will now have two diamonds with one piece of straw
sticking out at a point on the side. 5. Put one diamond on top of the other to align, with each of their last pieces sticking out on the left and on the right. 6. Join the two diamonds by tying their points together with string, first top and bottom, and then on each side. 7. The points sticking out will form one side of the diamond, tie them to their points on each side. 8. Make sure all points are knotted securely, then tuck in any excess string into the straws to hide.
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NORT HERNER
WRITING THE EDIBLE
On The Radar
This historian has been writing about Philippine food before it was cool, and eaters everywhere should thank her for it TEXT YVETTE TAN PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
If you’re in the food industry or are just serious and curious about Philippine cuisine, then you’ll know Felice Prudente Sta. Maria, the food historian who has been tirelessly chronicling what Filipinos put into their mouths for over four decades now. “I’ve always enjoyed cooking from the time I was seven years old. I think that was because I enjoyed the company of my grandmothers and my grandaunts, and everybody baked or cooked or enjoyed holding dinners and family gatherings [then]. That opened up an entire dimension of satisfaction and creativity,” she says. “In the late 1960s, the food literature was still quite limited, but I think it was of a very excellent caliber. If one liked literature, then one probably would have enjoyed the way the articles were written:
there was already the travel and food combination,” she continues. “I was lucky enough to stumble into the new types of food books that were coming mostly [from] Europe then. They not only had recipes but also the stories behind the recipes: how an author, for instance, lived in Italy or France, or somebody’s husband was assigned overseas and the wife goes along and discovers the cuisine and the culture at the same time.” Sta. Maria’s writing, which tells the various stories of the Filipino nation through recipes, anecdotes, and history, is backed by meticulous research that involves poring over old documents. Finding exact dates and personalities is important to her writing, the records-based food history providing much-needed written evidence and background
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The Aesthetics of the Japanese Lunch Box by Kenji Ekuan
Savoring the Past: the French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789 by Barbara Ketcham Wheaton
Indian Food: A Historical Companion by K.T. Achaya
NORT HERNER
to support the oral tradition-based reporting that’s more popular today. “If you want to understand how a certain thing develops, how a certain edible plant arrived in the Philippines and became no longer wild but cultivated and [widely] eaten, and how it was cooked, for instance, you kind of have to go all the way back,” she says. “We need to go into archaeological findings and historical records to have some idea of how a botanical began and developed in the Philippines. We need to look at heritage recipes to know how dishes were prepared at different times. For instance, whereas before, we used rice flour as thickener, today we switched to wheat flour or cornstarch. Before, we made chicken curry with only turmeric juice and coconut milk. We also cooked with leaves seldom used now such as alusina, guava, lupo, labanos, tamarind, tugabang, kilitis, and quite a number of others. Our food is like fashion; sometimes a dish is so popular when cooked a particular way, then later it’s gone and young cooks do not know anymore how
to cook it, or may have never even heard of it.” Why is knowing how Filipinos used to eat relevant to the way we live now? Sta. Maria offers three main reasons: “First of all, we’re trying to promote to ourselves the forever changing, dynamic Philippine food that is anchored in some kind of heritage,” she says. “We’re trying to promote that to ourselves. At the same time, we’re trying to promote that to people overseas. We’re doing that partly because we want to defend our image, we don’t want people to say our food is bad. “Second, there’s the economic impact of that. If people like our food the way they have overseas, then maybe they’ll come here for the real thing. “Third, if they like our food, they’ll want to use only Philippine ingredients. We have some of the best fish sauces, and there is no reason for us to use non-Philippine fish sauce in Philippine cooking.” “There’s a [possible] package to this,” she says, referring to how everything ties together. “We need
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to promote our cuisine.” Sta. Maria is very happy about the current interest in good food in general, and Filipino cuisine in particular. “I think every Filipino should be happy that Filipino food is being enjoyed by people from all over,” she says. “We have to understand that people have different eating cultures, so the fact that there are certain Philippine foods that have become attractive to people from a different culinary culture is wonderful.” Food history is an important factor of any community’s social discourse, and looking at past records to figure out why we eat the way we do now is integral to discerning what makes a Filipino Filipino. “Then the total picture of what Philippine food is includes a chronology, includes a history of it,” Sta. Maria says. “I would hate for people to ask, ‘Is there anything written about Philippine food history?’ and the answer would be, ‘Not really much.’ I would hope that eventually, they would say that, ‘Oh you know, there is quite a lot.’”
NORT HERNER
“Our food is like fashion; sometimes a dish is so popular when cooked a particular way, then later it’s gone and young cooks do not know anymore how to cook it, or may have never even heard of it.”
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FEAT URE
THE ZAMBALES RENDEZVOUS NORTHERNliving
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FEAT URE
In this charity dinner, the country’s celebrated chefs, artists, and designers offer something unexpected on the table TEXT DEVI DE VEYRA PHOTOGRAPHY TAMMY DAVID
Soothing music from a wind and string ensemble welcomed guests to the gardens of Casa San Miguel in early October. The event was a charity champagne luncheon for the benefit of violinist Coke Bolipata’s Cuerdas Cuatros community arts program. “This program started in 1996 with me and my sister, Plet, teaching local kids underneath mango tree,” Bolipata recounts. Since then, the community outreach project has produced five generations of teachers, “and the most number of musicians distributed among orchestras,” Bolipata proudly continues. The project also expanded in Tondo with teachers mentoring 24 children in the area. The event’s proceeds will go to planned expansions which include purchasing instruments, harnessing more teachers, as well as renovating an attic space to add more teaching cubicles. For the charity event, Bolipata called on a fellow Zambaleño chef, Victor Magsaysay, to craft the menu. Magsaysay spent several years in Paris manning the kitchens of Japanese tapas bars Ito Izakaya and Ito Chan, and before that, he worked as a chef at Sakebar, a sister restaurant of Michelin-starred Sola. He gave a lot of attention to the details, drawing a stellar cast of creatives for the tablescapes, saying, “the total experience was deliberate because, to me, having dinner
is like having mass—it’s almost religious.” The repast’s high-concept profile starts with a starkly simple menu printed on brown paper—its cover designed by celebrated artist Elmer Borlongan with the cuisine written at the back. Fashion designer Vivien Ramsay, a Zambales resident herself, created the outsize linens which were meant for reuse as a neck scarf or pocket square. The giant prawn on the table napkin—silkscreen printed individually with talisay leaf paste—was “an image that would signal a feast,” Ramsay shares. “I chose the pigments because the harmony of indigo and amber makes you feel both calm and hungry,” the designer continues. New York-based floral designer Joji Duque gathered pieces from Mia Casal and Eric Paras for his arrangements to evoke the province’s terrain, displaying cone-shaped vases crowned with local flora set on water-filled trays that he decorated with moss. Plet Bolipata’s crocheted fishes dotted Duque’s assemblages. And just to make sure everything ran smoothly, Magsaysay brought Douglas Senes on board. The Frenchman is a restaurateur, and he trained the staff of Casa San Miguel on the high art of waiting. As guests settled in their seats with Duque’s dazzling scenography before them and Ramsay’s linens urging
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FEAT URE Chef Victor Magsaysay, with the help of restaurateur Douglas Senes, put together a luncheon for the benefit of Cuerdas Cuatros community arts program.
their appetites, the mood was set to sample Magsaysay’s presentation of Zambales flavors. For the chef, the event was an occasion to rediscover local food after being away for so long, further saying that “I went away as a designer and here I am back as a cook. Even if I grew up with these vegetables, spices, etc., I now taste them with a new education about cooking.” The menu was thematically directed with the chef ’s home province in mind. “The way I cook right now is very much informed by the movement in Paris. Modern French cuisine is very simplified with a lot of influences, especially Japanese influences,” Magsaysay explains. From start to end, the dishes would reveal the chef ’s art and refinement. Magsaysay introduced an unusual fusion of spices, so delicately aligned that it leaves the palate chasing after the flavors. His command of his method is evident, not just with the taste and textures but in the visual outcome. The repast starts with a reference to the chef’s childhood favorite, the sugar-coated tinudoktudok sold in the markets of his hometown, Castillejos. Magsaysay presented it as a savory starter. The round glutinous balls skewered on bamboo sticks look familiar but a bite into the morsels reveal an exotic twist. Instead of sugar, the glutinous orbs are dusted with toasted coconuts mixed with palapa spices from Maguindanao. Magsaysay’s ceviche is a more delicate take on the traditional kilawin where the chef replaced the robust taste of onions, garlic, and chili with subtle
hints of mint, guava and red radish. The babayote (or barracuda) was a favorite among guests. While most would have simply fried or cooked the fish as the standard sinigang, Magsaysay chose to smoke it in guava leaves served with a side of singkamas stewed in tapuy (a local brew), seaweeds and a dash of soy sauce. The fish was served with a mound of fish roe soaked in squid ink, its form alluding to the lahar that mantles swathes of the Zambales landscape. “I like to put black in my platings,” Magsaysay says. “It provides a contrast and highlights the other elements of a dish. It’s like eyeliner,” the chef says with a laugh. The chef ends the seven-course degustation with a simple dessert of vanilla ice cream, with just a trace of lime rinds. “It used to be complicated, but now everything is simpler and more direct,” Magsaysay explains. “You know what you’re eating and what you’re getting.” After the hearty degustation, guests wandered off to the concert hall where Bolipata treated his program’s patrons to music. Plet and Borlongan also opened up their private space to tours. For those who wish to lend support to Bolipata’s advocacy, there will be another farm-to-table fundraiser slated for January 2016. This time, Magsaysay will be looking further North for inspiration. The menu will be designed by Paris-based Ifugao artist Gaston Dimag, and the fare will be centered on the upland province’s produce. With good music, and Magsaysay’s delightful cuisine, it’s something that all enthusiasts of culture and culinary shouldn’t miss.
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FEAT URE Top to bottom: Stingray with coconut milk and casuy creme; Linens by Vivien Ramsay; Savory tinudoktudok with palapa spices.
“The total experience was deliberate because, to me, having dinner is like having mass—it’s almost religious.”
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Duque’s tablescapes, a miniature garden created with endemic fauna, served as backdrop to chef Magsaysay’s inspired dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients.
FEAT URE
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FEAT URE
MARINE FARE Quick methods to cooking a saltwater harvest TEXT LEX CELERA PHOTOGRAPHY GABBY CANTERO
Walk into the beach with your feet, unwrinkled and dry. Gaze upon the seemingly endless bed of glass that is the sea, looming over the horizon. The water recedes from the beach and the sea draws in a heavy sigh. Breathing, moving—another kindred spirit, someone you could call brethren. What lies beneath the foam of the crest of every wave that comes your way?
Fresh Catch The trevally, otherwise known as the talakitok, is common table fare and can be served in a variety of ways, but the saltwater taste remains even after you cook it. Frying it on a pan with minced garlic, onions, and tomatoes tempers the saltiness, making the talakitok a worthwhile supper.
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FEAT URE
Low Tide Fresh clams are perfect with ginger, onions, and garlic for a savory tinola. Bring the clams to a boil along with the other ingredients until the shells open. If you prefer, add unripe papaya or winter melon and let it simmer for a few more minutes. Season with ground pepper and patis, then serve.
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FEAT URE
Turn Up the Heat Usually, squid is served as calamari, an appetizer that’s batter coated and cut into rings. For a simpler approach, try grilling the squid whole over an open fire. Score the squid and squeeze a little lemon and other spices depending on your craving. The whole process takes a few minutes, and looks impressive enough to serve to guests.
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FEAT URE
Crunch Time Crispness is one of the prime reasons why people like to eat softshelled crabs, and the best way to make use of the crab is to grill it with a little olive oil, turning the crabs every few minutes until they turn orange. Serve hot and eat whole.
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FEAT URE
Born and Braised Sinaing na Tulingan is a native dish from Batangas that serves the tulingan or bullet fish with bilimbi or kamias. Clean and salt the tulingan while you place the kamias in a pot. Place the tulingan over the kamias, and let it simmer for several hours. Serve with white rice, and don’t forget to transfer the remaining liquid from the pot to be used as patis.
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COV ER STORY
SAVING GRAINS
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COV ER STORY
PHOTOGRAPHY DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA
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COV ER STORY
The appeal of heirloom produce is flavored by its compelling backstory TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY TAMMY DAVID
We’ve painted a picture in our heads of what farming is like. We sketch lines to make grids and add little checkmarks inside each box to illustrate seedlings of rice. We draw a nipa hut beside the grid, a carabao and a farmer wearing a straw hat in front of it. Farming is often underappreciated, not only by city dwellers, but also by anyone born in today’s generation. We think that producers just carve grids on the ground just like in our childhood drawings, plant seeds, and water them every day. The rest is just a matter of waiting. We consumers, on the other hand, already see food packed and ready to be cooked. But with the persistent promotion of slow living via social media, we’ve started to ask important questions: what goes into our food and where does it really come from? And as the system is rattled, the more we try answering these questions that were never asked before. Let’s start with the most basic good, the staple in every meal: rice. Palay. Bigas. Sinaing. Kanin. The different terms of rice in our mother tongue only emphasizes its significance. In the local market, we’d see an array of varieties from which any consumer could choose. There is jasmine, sinandomeng, dinorado, malagkit, and the list goes on. There are different colors, too—red, brown, white, black. But have you seen a cardboard sign atop heaps of grains that says: “tinawon?”
rice, as well as over hundreds of heirloom rice varieties, are most likely unknown in urban areas. An image of timeless beauty withstanding the forces of nature and a symbol of our ancestors’ unwavering craftsmanship, the towering Banaue Rice Terraces is home to the thousandyear-old rice varieties. In its most basic sense, “heirloom” is defined as any valuable object passed on from generation to generation. In the context of rice, it’s the mother of rice varieties. It has no additives, no genetic mutations or enhancements. Through the years and because of technological advancements, researchers and scientists have found ways to modify the unassuming grain to increase yield and boost seed quality. The indigenous people of the Cordillera mountain range have preserved the art of rice farming. Its importance lies not just in the physical nourishment it gives but also in its spiritual implications. Their ancestors created a religion, named gods, and patterned their calendars according to the rice production cycle. The oral tradition in this part of the Philippines is still rich, the Ifugao Tinawon myth surviving for over two centuries. It is believed that one of their major gods, Liddum, gave them a particular rice variety, the tinawon, in exchange for fire. Since then, the different indigenous communities have been offering rituals for a prosperous year of planting rice. Its observance is also said to bring a pest- and disease-free year for all their crops.
A grain of truth Under the dominion of Christianity, fewer communities continued the tradition. However, the preservation of traditional practices endured, and heirloom rice steadily gained popularity locally and even globally. Three of the heirloom rice varieties, in fact, are part of the international catalog of heritage foods called Ark of Taste. What has brought about this comeback? According to Nature’s high-rise the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), these Grown in the highlands of the Cordilleras, the tinawon varieties are resilient, showing high levels of resistance
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COV ER STORY
PHOTOGRAPHY DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA
“More than profit, we are promoting the rich Cordilleran cultural heritage through this export.”
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COV ER STORY A local woman with freshly reaped tinawon on one hand and a plastic of nganga on the other; Golden stalks of the heirloom grain ready for harvesting.
to diseases and tolerance of environmental stresses. What’s more, they have exceptional cooking quality, flavor, aroma, texture, color, and nutritional value. The clamor for heirloom rice has boosted the local economy, giving rise to more jobs and giving more people reason to preserve the tradition. Archiving of the different varieties began a year ago, when the Heirloom Rice Research kicked off. “Most of the traditional varieties sowed in the terraces are non-aromatic. But when I was young, almost all were aromatic,” Jimmy Lingayo, Rice Terraces Farmers Cooperative manager shares. “[It’s called] the tinawon rice. Then, IRRI prioritized high-yielding varieties. But when they saw the economic potential in heirloom rice, they started different projects that will aid in preserving the traditional ones.” Marilyn Sta. Catalina, Department of Agriculture-Cordillera Administrative Region director further emphasizes, “More than profit, we are promoting the rich Cordilleran cultural heritage through this export.” Fields of glory A first-hand experience on harvesting the mother grains is life-changing, and a different level of appreciation toward the meal staple is rekindled. Depending on the location of a landowner’s property on the grand terraces, it could take an hour or more to reach the patch of golden field ready for harvest. Walking through irrigation canals and manmade walkways by the cliffs, it is a shocking
revelation that farmers could travel back and forth several times a day. It is more surprising that women—from those who have just reached puberty to those in their senior years—are responsible for planting and harvesting rice. Wearing pants, shirts over long-sleeved tees, and big hats, women traverse the winding walkways every day. As they reach the field, they form a line covering its expanse. They have developed a system: cutting panicles on one hand and holding the harvest on the other. Once their hands are full, they pass it to the end of the line and give it to a man. The sole role of the man is to collect and carry the harvested bundles of palay to the community center. “Sowing to harvest takes a total of six months. Drying takes at least a month and the milling-topackaging process could last [up] to two months before it is ready [to be sold],” explains Lingayo. One kilo of tinawon rice, or any heirloom variety, would range from P100 to P120. A far cry from the common sinandomeng that could range from P40 to P50 only. But, given the extraordinary efforts exerted by local and women farmers, and the resulting exceptional quality that the tinawon provides, these grains are truly our country’s pride and glory. We are what we eat. Food reveals identity. The growing support we give to these products will not only help our farmers elevate their livelihood, but also create a ripple effect that could sustain the country’s economic stability.
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COV ER STORY The manual manner of separating the kernels from hulls is called pagbabayo.
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COV ER STORY Tinawon rice is still a scarce resource in Manila. There are select private distributors that you can find in weekend markets like the ones in Salcedo and Legaspi.
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SPECIAL FEAT URE
LIVE INDEPENDENTLY AT THE VANTAGE Having your own place at a young age is an achievement on its own. Rockwell Primaries presents young and aspiring individuals this experience with The Vantage at Kapitolyo. Every young professional aims to have his or her own place to experience living independently, whether it’s in a condominium or an apartment in the Metro. With The Vantage at Kapitolyo, Rockwell Primaries’ second property and first highrise development, this dream can turn into reality. Offering a home that is secure and located in a vibrant community, The Vantage is an exclusive urban enclave that provides the best of both worlds – well-planned units that allow homeowners to enjoy the comforts of their personal spaces but still within close proximity to key establishments; and the Rockwell lifestyle that everyone has grown to love. The Vantage is located at the center of four business districts within a safe and secure neighborhood that provides easy access to the growing food establishments in Kapitolyo. The growing need for halfway homes and dwelling places in the city makes The Vantage more appealing to young professionals and achievers. “We know how young professionals aspire to have their own place that they can call home. With The Vantage at Kapitolyo, we are addressing this aspiration. Many work around the area and are looking for the home that will give them the freedom and safety that Rockwell Primaries can give. These individuals are expanding their horizons and we at Rockwell Primaries would like to be a partner in their journey by providing them the home that they
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deserve,” said Malou Pineda, Senior Vice President, Rockwell Primaries Development Corporation. The Vantage offers different kinds of units from studio to one, two, and three-bedroom formats, which can all be availed at very flexible payment terms. For those wanting to live in a smaller space to experience independent living, a studio unit can be the perfect fit. It’s easy to maintain, convenient to style and design, and suitable for those who want to have a place of their own. Choosing the studio unit means being able to maximize the available space, usually ranging from 29-30 sqm. “We know what our urban market needs in terms of well-designed condo spaces. Our studio units are fitting for those looking for a convenient home that is reasonably priced and sized just right. We always aim to provide the accessibility and convenience of living within a Rockwell property,” shared Pineda. Unlike other developments in the area, The Vantage will only have 11 to 17 units per floor. This actually offers homeowners more space to move and privacy on each floor. The Vantage will include 24-hour CCTV security cameras and keycard access to units. The Vantage will be turned over by 2020. For more details on Rockwell Primaries and its properties, visit www.rockwellprimaries.com.ph or www.facebook.com/RockwellPrimaries and www.facebook.com/thevantageatkapitolyo.
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ST YLE
MAGIC REALISM
An otherworldly air and high-end labels mix, mingle, and meet PHOTOGRAPHY RALPH MENDOZA STYLING MELVIN MOJICA
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On Cenon: Hoodie, Valentino. On Sara Grace: Coat and pants, Giambattista Valli. Sweater and shoes, Cèline. living 37 On Mav: Hoodie, Dior Homme.
ST YLE On Cenon and Mav: Hoodie, Cèline. On Sara Grace: Pantsuit, Jil Sander. Shirt, Cèline. Shirt, Pierre Hardy. Bag, Cèline.
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FASHION ASSISTANT MIGUEL MANZANERO SHOT ON LOCATION HOMME ET FEMME
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HAIR APPLE FARAON MAKEUP JAN EDROSOLAN MODELS SARA GRACE KELLY OF ELITE MANILA, MAV AND CENON NORIAL III
From left: Shoes, Dior Homme, Pierre Hardy, Jil Sander.
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On Sara Grace: Shirt, skirt, and shoes, Cèline. On Cenon: Hoodie, Valentino. Shoes, Dior Homme. Bag, Valextra. On Mav: Hoodie, Dior Homme. Shoes, Jil Sander. Bag, Valextra.
All available at Homme et Femme, 8 Rockwell, Makati City.
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M EATS ARKET
BREAKING SOIL Breathing life into herb gardening PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
1. Gardening shears, P1,500, Gardena,True Value, Eastwood Mall. 2. Watering can, P595, Napco, True Value, Shangri-La Plaza Mall. 3. Gardening gloves, P470, Gardena, True Value, Eastwood Mall. 4. Hand trowel, P725, Orla Kiely, Heima Home and Lifestyle. 5. Garden fork, P1,500, Orla Kiely, Objects by Kish, Kish.
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EATS Their falafel sandwich is one of the healthier, more affordable items on the menu of Halal Guys.
THE TRAVELING FARE
A New York street food favorite finds a home in Manila TEXT OLIVIA ESTRADA PHOTOGRAPHY CHISSAI BAUTISTA
There are many things that come to mind when people think of New York City: the lights. Central Park. The Empire State Building. SoHo. Carrie Bradshaw. For Jaime Daez, however, what lingered in his memory from his trip is the scent of freshly cooked falafels and gyros, Egyptian fare that found their way to the streets of The Big Apple through two immigrant brothers. “I remember how there was a long line for the food cart,” he shares. “It was part of the tourist attraction but also something that was part of the city’s local culture.” Daez then decided that the experience he had is worth sharing with the local palate, so he introduced The Halal Guys to the Filipino scene. The concept is pretty simple: a straight-up menu of rice plates and sandwiches with your choice of chicken, gyro, or falafel. All orders come with a generous serving of tomatoes, lettuce, and onions. Each dish is prepared to match the standard of its American counterpart. They use fresh chicken, as freezing poultry would compromise the taste and consistency of the meat. As for the gyro, U.S. grade beef is grilled until tender and juicy. If you’re not up for any kind of meat, the falafel might be more to your liking as
they are ground chickpeas with herbs and spices, giving off an exotic and flavorful bite. The garlicky white sauce and the killer hot sauce that accompany the dishes are added after to your liking because it’s all about finding a combo of your own. “Street food is all about being able to adjust to the taste of each customer. It’s all about being the people’s food,” Daez notes. Set up in the middle of a bustling food court, Daez also made sure he would be able to recreate what it’s like to order one of the famed sandwiches just as though you were actually in New York. “It’s all about being able to eat it on-the-go and getting value for your money, without compromising taste.” Though a few tweaks have been made to cater to the Filipino clientele, such as trading in basmati rice for jasmine rice and sticking to smaller portions (their New York Size servings are actually the regular-sized servings abroad), everything else is kept to the famous standard. Now that Daez got this venture on the road, he looks forward to the second one. The Halal Guys will soon set up another shop in Bonifacio Global City this December, in front of a park so people can really take their fare to-go. From Egypt to New York, and now, to Manila, we can say that good food travels fast.
The Halal Guys. 5/F SM Mega Food Hall, Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, EDSA cor. J. Vargas Ave., Mandaluyong City. 858-7000.
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EATS Industriya’s name harks to the shoe factory that birthed the restaurant.
OF COBBLERS AND COOKS
Industriya Marikina builds a reputation for comfort cuisine on the back of another noble craft TEXT ROMEO MORAN PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
Industriya Marikina is a love letter. It’s written not only for the shoe industry, the well-known crowning glory of its hometown and the business that has blessed its owners with the fortune to put up a place as grand as this; it is also written for the concept in its name, industriya. It’s a literal homage to the hard work that went into building the place and running it, from laying out floorboards to figuring out how to manage a restaurant after years of selling shoes. How could it not be a love letter to shoemaking? The property is an old, idle factory that owner Alfredo Cheng’s family owns, converted into a lofty restaurant and events place. (It’s as palatial an establishment as they want it to be—and Cheng had always wanted to get into the restaurant business—because they don’t owe anyone rent.) Antique shoemaking machines stand all around the area, providing the space with a sheen of history. The paper placemats laid out on each table take us through the steps of making a single shoe using old textbook illustrations. Nothing was spared in order to fill out Industriya’s mythos. All of it is Cheng’s brainchild, and it’s the product of the hardest of work, his and the members of his family. “We wanted to show our heritage from the shoes,” says Alex Cheng, Alfredo’s daughter who helps her father run the place. “There are no other restaurants that are
concentrated on the shoe industry.” The cuisine is also a subtle tribute to another side of shoemaking. An initial glance at the menu will reveal a seemingly random mix of Filipino, Western, and Japanese food; it turns out that the offerings were cobbled from what the Chengs would have when they would go abroad for shoe fairs. That means Industriya seems to be the only (if not one of the few) restaurant where you could order Zambales longganisa and fries alongside their own version of maki, alongside a seafood pasta in white wine cream sauce, alongside a traditional-looking Italian pizza, alongside bagnet, alongside Pinoy barbeque cooked like Persian kebabs—and everything is delicious. No cuisine suffers, and everything is satisfying. That’s a lineup you’d more commonly see in buffets, but that’s not a coincidence. “That’s also why our food is international, because we wanted to cater to whatever food you want,” remarks Cheng. Because Industriya is also an events place, they have a catering service. “We have a buffet menu, but if you tell us you want [something else], it’s okay with us. Our chefs have their own specialties.” And when you think about that notion and let it linger, it shouldn’t be surprising to anyone. Hard work is everything Industriya wants to be about, after all.
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EATS Clockwise from left: Ags Pinoy with skewers of pork barbecue and chicken barbecue; Pakbet Bagnet; Oldworld interiors; Longganisa Fries
Industriya Marikina. 23 M. A. Roxas St., Calumpang, Marikina City. 904-8372. www.facebook.com/industriyamarikina.
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EATS Then newlyweds Miguel and Maria Gloria put up the restaurant, treating it as a house they’ve always wanted to own.
COMFORT ZONE DEFENSE
Guilty pleasure is the name of Miguel and Maria’s game TEXT ROMEO MORAN PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
All around the metro, restaurants specializing in comfort food are slowly gaining momentum and starting to become a thing, but most of them still hide under a façade—some sort of painstakingly-crafted identity, if you will. You will know, somehow, that they’re comfort food, but it’ll be dressed up nice. Miguel and Maria, nestled in a cozy little bungalow on Marikina’s Lilac Street, makes none of these pretenses. They explicitly advertise themselves as a restaurant that wants to bring you comfort food, straight from your mom’s kitchen. There are no fancy trappings; the restaurant is a house that’s largely unchanged. The walls are intentionally adorned with posters that make the insides look like a guy’s bedroom or living room. “The restaurant is co-owned by me and my wife,” says Miguel Gloria, obviously the Miguel in the restaurant’s name. He and his wife Maria were corporate bankers before they decided to switch lanes. “She’s passionate about cooking. She just suggested that we come up with a restaurant.” The food, then, is no-frills, standard American
and European homecooking. Miguel and Maria’s star players, the grilled baby back ribs and mac ‘n’ cheese, appeal to a wide range of customers. After all, who doesn’t like baby back ribs and mac ‘n’ cheese? The beauty is that all the dishes are cooked just the way you’d like them, just the way you’d imagine them when you think about going to a place like this. The servings are all huge; they’re theoretically just for one, but are easily for sharing. Gloria justifies it as food you don’t want just a little of, especially if you’re coming “home” and unwinding from a stressful day. “Just to have that kick,” he says. “Ayaw mong mabitin eh.” It’s the comfort food formula. It’s safe, but it works, and works well. In a scene that’s seeing more and more establishments styling themselves as comfort food places, what does Miguel and Maria do to stand out? “When you eat [here], you feel like you’re eating something prepared from your house, from someone you actually know, from something you’re familiar with,” assures Gloria. That’s not a bad idea at all to come home to.
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EATS Clockwise from top: Miguel and Maria’s Seafood Paella; Craft beers; Mac ‘n’ Cheese.
Miguel and Maria. 89 Lilac cor. Panaroma Sts., Concepcion Dos, Marikina City. 246-9069.
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RECIPE
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RECIPE
ITALIAN TOSS-UP
Freshwater sardine native to Taal Lake in a simple Italian dish TEXT AND STYLING CHARLIE CARBUNGCO PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
TAWILIS AND TOMATO PASTA INGREDIENTS
For semi-dried tomatoes 10 pcs. ripe tomatoes Thyme Rosemary Sugar Salt Pepper 2 cups olive oil For pasta 1/2 cup semi-dried tomatoes 2 cups cooked spaghetti pasta 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 red onion, minced Tawilis Asparagus 1 cup olive oil 3 tbsp. Parmesan cheese Rock salt and pepper, to taste Basil, chopped PREPARATION
For semi-dried tomatoes 1. Preheat oven to 180° C. 2. Blanch the tomatoes. Boil water with salt in a pot and prepare ice and water in a small bowl. When the water is boiling, place the tomatoes in the pot for
around 10 to 15 seconds. Then transfer the tomatoes in the bowl of ice and water. 3. Peel the tomato skin and cut into quarters. Remove all the seeds. 4. Place all the tomatoes in a baking tray. Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Also add thyme and rosemary. Then drizzle with olive oil. 5. Bake for around 10 minutes or until tomatoes are dark red. 6. Once ready, store it in a jar with olive oil. For pasta 1. Season the filleted tawilis with rock salt. Set aside for 10 minutes. 2. SautĂŠ garlic and onion in a pan. Then add asparagus. 3. In the same pan, cook the tawilis. And add the semi-dried tomatoes with a little bit of oil. 4. Toss the pasta in. Then add the Parmesan cheese and basil. 5. If pasta is a bit dry, add more olive oil. 6. Add salt and pepper, to taste.
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T HE GET
FANTASIES OF FOAM
In between getting up in the morning and taking life head on, these hand-crafted bath products invite us to relish the interval TEXT PAM BROOKE CASIN PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
To date, most Filipinos rarely have time to savor a bath. Routine dictates us to go quickly in and out of the shower to make it to whatever engagement we have scheduled. Slowly, and with good reason, Soak Artisan Soap is changing this mindset. Made with natural ingredients such as olive oil, crueltyfree tussah silk, milk, honey, and oats, their body products resemble classic desserts and evoke gestural abstractions or reflections inspired by the sea. Each hand-cut and hand-poured soap undergoes the traditional cold-process method, a technique used centuries ago by skilled soap masters for royal houses in Europe. “Sometimes, it comes in a dream and we allow it to unravel,” says Leo Cruz, owner of Soak Artisan Soap, on how they conceptualize the next pieces. Ultimately, their bath and body indulgences urge us to take a pause and breathe in the moving and thoughtful silence—because it’s perfectly okay to. Soak Artisan Soap. Power Plant Mall. soakartisansoap@gmail.com. 0917-6314067.
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10/1/15 10:02 AM
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(32) 260 3333
0917 318 4762
(02) 784 5002
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