Northern Living: 2014 November

November 2014 Volume 8 | Issue 15

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CONT ENTS

NORTHERNliving

GROUP PUBLISHER Bea J. ledesMa BRAND AND COMMUNITY EDITOR dIaNNe pINeda ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR deNIse daNIelle alCaNtara EDITORIAL ASSISTANT alleC testado CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIÑa MuallaM GRAPHIC ARTIST daNICa CoNdeZ

24 COVER STORY Spanish chef Chele Gonzalez went up the hills of Pampanga to learn the culinary culture of the Aetas

NOVEMBER 2014 04 HEALTH Look beyond your drugstore for health remedies

09 CRAFT Make your own natural exfoliating soap with sea salt and seaweed

06 BEAUTY The history of cosmetics reveals not just a thing for vanity, but of social standing

10 NORTHERNER Moira Lang sheds some light on social issues and tells stories close to her heart

08 FIXTURE A thirst for distinct brews of man’s favorite afterwork alcoholic beverage

36 FEATURE Prosthetic artist goes out on a limb to make a grotesque world in film Cover photo by Sonny Thakur

EDITOR’S NOTE Rediscovering cultures There’s something quite ambiguous about Pampanga. From the outside it looks like a quiet, sleepy part of the North, but once you go deeper you will realize that it is a place with many faces.

It is part progressive with towns rapidly burgeoning with malls, condominiums, and leisure centers, while the other half is rich in history—or more accurately, it is a place that is in a constant struggle to keep its remnants of the past. Having grown up in Angeles City, I am part of the generation that has blurry memories of the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo, resulting in the diaspora of families, the relocation of homes, and eventually, the city’s restoration and rebuilding. Several years after the eruption, Pampanga experienced drastic transformations, and surely it is not what it used to be now.

Despite these changes, however, one thing remains unaffected: the Aetas. Our writer went on a journey with Spanish chef Chele Gonzalez to learn about the Aetas traditional ways of cooking, and discovered that despite the challenges, the community has learned to become flexible yet steadfast in keeping their culinary culture alive.

This issue, we celebrate the work of hands. Cecile Baun, a professional movie prosthetic artist, has been creating gruesome faces and sculptures for decades to give Filipinos a scare.

Moira Lang, a writer and activist, lives to tell the story of others. Whether it’s through food, clothing or anything else, Filipinos take pride in having the power to create their own tradition, history, and identity.

Talk to us on Facebook and you just might win a special prize from us.

Visit www.facebook.com/northernlivingmagazine now. Follow us on Instagram and Twitter at @nlivingph. We’d love to hear from you.

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CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS ChINggay laBrador, BeVerly daltoN, kat patIÑo-MarQueZ, aJ elICaÑo, yVette taN, septeMBer graCe MahINo, haNNah CruZ, WINCy aQuINo oNg, CharlIe CarBuNgCo, prIstINe de leoN ILLUSTRATOR patrICIa espINo, keNo eNrIQueZ STYLISTS edleNe CaBral, saM lIM HAIR AND MAKEUP CaMIlle VIllaruel, Bullet reyes PHOTOGRAPHERS patrICk segoVIa, edrIC CheN, taMMy daVId, soNNy thakur, JIlsoN seCkler tIu, Joseph pasCual, saM lIM COPY EDITOR septeMBer graCe MahINo PROOFREADER paM Brooke CasIN EDITORIAL CONSULTANT rIa FraNCIsCo-prIeto CUSTOM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER daphNe see ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR paM Brooke CasIN PROJECT COORDINATOR reNÉe espeNIlla EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS prIstINe de leoN, paulINe MIraNda ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES shaNNa MalINg, haNNah raMos, INa Mateo GRAPHIC ARTISTS auBrey porCIuNCula, roI de Castro, teJ taN, yayIe Motos PRODUCTION MANAGER Noel CaBIe PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MarICel gaVINo FINAL ART SUPERVISOR deNNIs CruZ FA ARTIST Jr larosa BOARD CHAIRPERSON aleXaNdra prIeto-roMualdeZ FINANCE ADVISOR AND TREASURER J. FerdINaNd de luZurIaga LEGAL ADVISOR atty. rudyard arBolado HR STRATEGY HEAD rayMuNd soBeraNo VP AND CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER IMelda alCaNtara SVP AND GROUP SALES HEAD, INQUIRER GROUP OF COMPANIES FelIpe r. olarte SALES DIRECTOR Ma. katrINa Mae garCIa-dalusoNg KEY ACCOUNTS SPECIALIST aNgelIta taN-IBaÑeZ ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES aBegaIl gINaga, aNdIe ZuÑIga, sarah CaBalatuNgaN, raM taN SALES SUPPORT ASSISTANTS reChelle eNdoZo, Mara kareN alIasas

This magazine was printed responsibly using recycled papers with biodegradable inks.

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READER S’ FEEDBACK

EMBRACING A “DYING” ART @nlivingph Hi Dianne!

@nlivingph

The articles have taken on a more mature voice. I like the fact that the magazine feature folks who contribute to Philippine art and culture who otherwise would have gone unnoticed by other lifestyle publications.

Visually, the images are more experimental and more authentic over photo-shopped perfectionism. It’s more playful.

The pages have more pride in our country and celebrates all things Pinoy.

www.facebook.com/ northernlivingmagazine nlivingph@hip.ph Share your thoughts on our latest issue and get a chance to win some prizes.

Congratulations Andrea Macaventa for winning a pair of Havaianas!

Call 403-8825 to claim your prize.

Andrea Macaventa

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HEALT H

NATURAL SUBSTITUTES

Alternatives to mainstream medical treatment text chinggay laBraDor illustration Patricia eSPino

tea can do wonders for your sinuses. Consider mixing in some cinnamon sticks, cloves, rose hip, and honey to your regular blend of ginger tea to clear the pathways leading up to your sinuses. Rose hip is a tea known to level out imbalances between yin and yang energy (colds bring out fiery energy, and anything soothing can cool it down).

Everyday headaches: Essential oils It could be a regular bout with migraine or a stress headache that leaves your temples throbbing—when your head is aching, there’s little else you can do with your day. Before popping a pill, though, consider the relief that aromatherapy can bring. Just a few drops of lavender, peppermint, or eucalyptus essential oil rubbed onto your temples, neck, and shoulders can bring a world of difference to how you’re feeling. If you’ve got more time in your hands, consider soaking in a warm bath with a few drops of these fragrant, Skin allergies: Sea therapy The Greeks called it thalassotherapy: finding healing in natural oils. everything the sea and saltwater has to offer. Surrounding yourself with sea air and seawater is therapeutic not just Heartburn: Apple cider vinegar on a physical level, as it can also be calming to the mind. If you’ve had a full meal (something that commonly happens Soaking up saltwater can help improve your immune as the holiday season approaches), it’s usual to feel acidic in system function—it also helps combat psoriasis—and the belly area, even all the way up your throat. A teaspoon of apple cider vinegar and a glass of water may help treat boost hydration. the excess acid in your stomach, despite the solution being acidic itself. A word of caution, though: those who suffer The common cold: Soothing tea If you’ve got the beginnings of a cold—a scratchy throat, a from stomach ulcers should stay away from this remedy as it headache, or the sniffles—taking in some hot, salabat-based would cause them more harm than good.

While conventional medicine is always an option for those seeking a cure to sickness, there’s another route that skirts science and moves towards the all-natural.

Alternative medicine may be a hokey path to those looking for something more scientific and substantial, but it also offers an opportunity to approach healing holistically and without the dangers of intrusive chemicals.

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BEAUT Y

VANITY PROJECT

The history of makeup depicts the beauty ideals and social standings of ancient civilizations text Beverly Dalton illustration keno enriquez

Back in the day of empires and pharaohs, cosmetics underwent a DIY process and were more organic and natural. These makeup products before, including Cleopatra’s eyeliner, were concocted with ingredients searched for far and wide.

Eyeliner We’ve got the Egyptians to thank for when it comes to eyeliner, which Twiggy (with her mod look) has made so famous in the ’60s. Egyptian men and women of high status actually wore eyeliner not to define their eyes (like what we do today) but to define where they stand in society. It was also a charm to protect themselves from people who wish them ill-fortune.

Apart from this, wearing eyeliner was like wearing SPF. It prevented wrinkles around the eye area because the ink and color were so thick that it acted as a shield against the harmful rays of the desert sun.

How it was made: Eyeliner then was

made by mixing a range of materials like copper ore and galena. Galena is actually now used to make kohl.

These materials were sourced from nearby Egyptian regions and Western Asia.

Blush Rouge was first used by the Egyptians but it was the Greeks who made it in vogue. During the BC era, women painted their cheeks with a rougecolored paste. This look, like lined eyes, was also a sign of wealth and social stature. Today, blush no longer defines which part of caste system you belong but is considered one of the best pick-me-uppers especially when you’re feeling drab.

How it was made: The rouge color the Greeks used on their cheeks was a concoction of crushed red fruits like strawberries. Earth pigments, like ochre, were also used. Ochre was a mix of minerals that produced deep orange or reddish shades.

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Lipstick In the early Greek empire, women with red-tinted lips were those who would give their chastity for a price.

Then came the Roman empire and women gave the bad rap of red lips from the Greeks a rest. Lipstick again, was associated with high ranking in society. Then, with the fall of the Roman empire and with Christianity on the rise, the rouge-colored lips took a back seat because of religious restrictions in clothing and appearance. But with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in England, the red tint painted on the lips resurfaced because the Queen herself was a lip rouge devotee.

How it was made: Greek women who wore lipstick would dye their lips with wine. Queen Elizabeth II made her own red lipstick with the combination of cochineal (an insect where the crimson-colored dye called carmine is derived), gum Arabic (sap from the acacia tree), egg whites, and fig milk.

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FIXT URE

SOMETHING OLD IS NOW SOMETHING NEW Getting into granny mode has never been more in vogue text chinggay laBraDor illustration Danica conDez

Call it a regression to a time when everyone busied themselves with Home Eco assignments, knitting needles, and crochet techniques. But then again, the phenomenon could be considered an act of taking decades’ worth of leaps forward.

Many folks have been embracing the lola lifestyle: kicking your feet up on a Saturday night with your sewing circle, charging off to join a rubber-stamp making collective, or trying your hand at the pottery wheel.

There’s been a worldwide resurgence of frump. Not only are vintage threads and orthopedic shoes making their way into shops, but also hobbies primarily associated with octogenarians and their ilk are taking over the youth sphere.

The community of crafters, knitters, crocheters, and the like has been experiencing a slow and steady growth over a number of years, and now fill the metro and the Internet with their blogs, Instagram accounts, online ‘zines, and even pop-up shops and stand-alone stores. While the stalwart establishments have long been around (the same ones you

went to when you were in grade school and needed supplies for a sewing project), this infusion of youth into the granny circuit has suddenly affected all things lola with a dose of underground cool.

CraftMNL (www.craftmnl.com) provides a virtual and physical space for this community of artisans and crafters and plays host to a plethora of skilled enthusiasts of all things handmade. While some folks prefer to keep their knitting circles private, trading tips for buying yarn from obscure online sellers abroad and sharing patterns and chismis once a week, others, like Candy Reyes-Alipio, prefer to take their interests full throttle and out in the open. “Knitting has to be my favorite craft so far,” she says on an interview with the CraftMNL blog. The artist held a workshop earlier this year, “Candy Knits Over Coffee” that brought together knitting with another granny treat: great coffee.

If anything, the rise of granny mode means that crafty lurkers no longer need to hide in the attic. Meet your fellow lolas and get aboard the frump train.

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CR AF T

SEA SKIN

Bring the sea’s natural exfoliants into your shower text kat Patiño-Marquez PhotograPhy Patrick Segovia

SEA SALT AND SEAWEED SOAP

What you’ll need:

Soap mold or silicone muffin mold Cooking pot Stick blender Candy thermometer Plastic pitcher 4.0 oz. lye (can be found in hardware stores or can be ordered online) 12 fl. oz. distilled water 7.2 oz. coconut oil 16.2 oz. olive oil 10.8 oz. palm oil 1.8 oz. shea butter Natural sea salt Dried seaweed Fragrance oil of choice Natural coloring

Directions:

1. Pour distilled water into the plastic pitcher. Carefully add the lye and stir with a wooden spoon.

Set aside to cool.

2. In the cooking pot, melt the coconut, olive, and palm oils and shea butter at medium heat. Once melted, remove from the heat.

3. Once lye mixture has cooled down to 95 to 100oF, slowly pour it into the melted oil, mixing with the stick blender as you go along.

Be sure that the temperature of the oils is not higher than the lye mixture’s.

4. As the mixture begins to incorporate, you can speed up the stick blender. Continue to blend until the mixture has the consistency of custard.

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5. Add in drops of your fragrance oil and natural coloring and mix them using the blender.

6. Cover the bottom and sides of the soap mold with plastic wrap for easy removal later. Pour the soap mixture into your mold.

7. Once filled, sprinkle sea salt and seaweed on top of the soap (you may also mix them in using the blender).

8. Cover the soap mold with cardboard and let sit for at least 24 hours.

9. Once hardened, remove soap from the mold and cut into bars.

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NORT HERNER At the time of this interview with Moira Lang, she was participating in a candle vigil and rally for Jennifer Laude, a transgender woman allegedly murdered by a US Marine.

A TELLER OF ORPHAN STORIES

When it comes to fighting for social issues, this producer of award-winning films takes everything personally text aJ elicaño PhotograPhy eDric chen oF at eaSt JeD root

For Moira Lang, producer of such films as Zombadings, Ang Pagdadalaga ni Maximo Oliveros, and the internationally acclaimed Norte, Hangganan ng Kasaysayan, the personal is often the most important thing.

“I’m a writer-producer. I want to be part in the telling of stories that move me,” she explains at a rally organized in the wake of the murder of transgender woman Jennifer Laude. “If socially relevant issues get touched on, then that’s just a coincidence. I am a part of whatever world it is we’re in, be it the Philippines, the bigger world, the transgender world, or the world of filmmakers. I respond to issues that affect me or affect other people, or people who do not have enough champions.

“I tend to favor stories that are in a way ‘orphans,’” she continues. “Meaning, there aren’t that many people who want to tackle them—films that are not obvious at first, when nobody else or only very few people can see it.”

Despite this, the projects which Lang works on don’t always begin with social issues. “In the case of Zombadings, it started with the issue of discrimination and labeling against homosexuals. Other times, it starts with the character. In the case of Maximo Oliveros, my collaborator wanted to make a movie about a young gay guy. From there, it evolved into a story of a young boy who happens to be gay or transgender.

“It’s organic,” Lang says. “We are open to the story and the issue coming together and becoming something unexpected and hopefully moving.”

She doesn’t make films to be an activist, although she admits that film can be a good medium for advocacy.

“For me, that’s not how I approach it; [for me], first, [I am] an advocate. [Being a filmmaker and being an activist] are separate roles, yet are inseparable. It comes off as fake if you persist in making a movie socially relevant when, in real life, you’re not really socially aware. For me, it’s more important to be a good person first; the film will follow naturally.”

This commitment to authenticity shows in her advice for would-be filmmakers: “Tell stories that appeal to you, that excite you, that move you. Don’t try to second-guess what will be the next box office hit, what will be the next hit in the international film festival circuit, what will win all the awards. Kasi that is an exercise in futility. And also, it has a tendency to make your work less than sincere, and that will show.”

As for the rest of us and our own advocacies, Lang returns, as always, to the personal. “You have to start with [the] smallest circle that you belong to; start with your family. If you can’t influence them, how will you influence a bigger community, ’di ba?”

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NORT HERNER

“I am a part of whatever world it is we’re in, be it the Philippines, the bigger world, the transgender world, or the world of filmmakers.

I respond to issues that affect me or affect other people, or people who do not have enough champions.”

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FEAT URE

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FEAT URE

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FEAT URE Clinton Palanca is a prolific contributing writer for various newspapers and magazines.

His new book, My Angkong’s Noodles was launched recently, with photography

by Neal Oshima.

Clinton Palanca turns his pen towards the recipes that populated the dining table of his youth, as gathered from members of the Chinese-Filipino community text yvette tan PhotograPhy taMMy DaviD

Even as he was taking pen to paper, Clinton Palanca was already trying his hand at whipping up stuff in the kitchen.

His earliest culinary memory is of making gulaman when he was about five years old. “The recipe called for 1/8 teaspoon of salt. I didn’t know fractions then, so I just put in eight teaspoons of salt. My family tried to eat the gulaman so as not to hurt my feelings.”

He went on to study at Le Cordon Bleu, learning how to cook French food before he could cook Filipino or Chinese food. “It was only when I was living abroad that I became homesick for the food that we had at home and became interested in learning how to cook it, and also doing research about it on a more abstract level.”

My Angkong’s Noodles, Palanca’s first cookbook, is filled with traditional, mostly Hokkienese (from which the word angkong or “grandfather” is from) cuisine as found in the Philippines. The germ for the book came about four years ago, when he was researching on the anthropology of Chinese Philippine foodways for his doctorate at the School of Oriental and African Studies at the University of London. “I was observing many other aspects of Chinese food in the Philippines, but I encountered so many great recipes and learned a few of them by just watching several families do them over and over. I thought it would be worth writing up the recipes in a cookbook.”

He did meticulous research and, with the help of Ginny Roces de Guzman, tested the recipes, the results of which were photographed by award-winning photographer Neal Oshima. “[The recipes are from] generations and generations of women (and some men) in kitchens. We owe a great debt to these unseen authors,” Palanca says.

“We were able to get hold of the recipes from a pool of informants who were unbelievably generous with their time and willing to share what other families considered theirs.

I ran across some very grouchy people who slammed the door on me because they didn’t see themselves benefiting from sharing the recipes, but that’s part of doing fieldwork.

They were more than made up for by the wonderful people who let us into their homes, cooked for us, fed us, and then answered questions afterwards when we kitchen tested the recipes and couldn’t get them to work.”

My Angkong’s Noodles makes for good reading for people who want to try their hand at Chinoy cooking, or who simply want to learn more about their culinary roots. “I think it gives a good snapshot of what the old and new Chinese-Filipino recipes are,” he says. “I’m sure we’ll get plenty of complaints about what we left out and that some recipes aren’t like what their grandma used to make, but this comes with the territory of writing about something so close to people’s hearts.”

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FEAT URE

“It was only when I was living abroad that I became homesick for the food that we had at home and became interested in learning how to cook it, and also doing research about it on a more abstract level.”

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FEAT FEATURE URE

photography neal oshima.

TEN TREASURES SOUP Jap Chai Teng

SOUP BASE

MEATBALLS

Ingredients 2 whole native chickens, dressed, cleaned, and blanched 1 kilogram pork trotters (pata), cleaned and blanched

Ingredients 3 kilos lean ground pork 2 medium carrots, finely chopped 1 cup water chestnuts, finely chopped 1/2 cup spring onions, chopped 1 tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. sea salt 1 tbsp. calamansi juice 2 tsp. liquid seasoning (optional) 2 tbsp. flour 2 tbsp. cornstarch 3 eggs

Preparation 1. Put the blanched chickens and pork trotters in a large stock pot. Cover generously with water. Bring to a boil, skimming off the scum that rises to the top. Lower the heat and simmer until the meats are very tender. Let cool.

2. When cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones and slice into strips. Season the meats with a little soy sauce, sugar, and pepper. Set aside.

Preparation 1. Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight.

2. Form the pork mixture into balls about 1 1/2-inches in diameter. Heat a wok over high heat and add enough oil to reach halfway up the sides of the pan. Working in batches, deep-fry the meatballs until golden brown. Drain well and set aside.

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SPECIAL FEAT URE

THE GREat OUTDOORS Green spaces and premier parkside living at NUVALI's distinctive urban oasis

OF WHITE PICKET FENCES

Serene suburbia dreams flourish amid the comforts of urbanity in Soliento

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS Outdoor brunch ideas for the Yuletide season

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SPECIAL FEAT URE

OF WHITE PICKET FENCES Serene suburbia dreams flourish amid the comforts of urbanity in Soliento

STYLING EDLENE CABRAL. MAKEUP ANGEL MANHILOT FOR MAC COSMETICS. HAIR ELVIE RECALDE.

TEXT SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO PHOTOGRAPHY SAM LIM

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SPECIAL FEAT URE FAMILY'S DAY OUT Forget the noise and crowds of the mall with NUVALI's own unique attractions

Fish Feeding

STYLING EDLENE CABRAL. MAKEUP ANGEL MANHILOT FOR MAC COSMETICS. HAIR ELVIE RECALDE.

W

hen we speak of idyllic neighborhood life, visions of wide, open spaces, tree-lined avenues and expansive spaces for children to play their afternoons away come to mind.

The latest sustainable urbanresidential development in NUVALI in Barangay Canlubang, Calamba, Laguna, Soliento takes its name from the Spanish words sol and viento—the sun and the wind, both of which perfectly describe the living experience in this 66-hectare community that combines the pleasing coziness of a pocket neighborhood with the freeing expanse of nature. In fact, 50 percent of the development is devoted to open spaces, with 17 hectares intended solely for parks, while the rest of the land is designed into intimate park enclaves in which residences can be found.

This set-up is what makes Soliento a cut above the rest: it brings forth an experience of nature that is close to home, from the majestic views it offers of the Tagaytay Ridge to the west and Mt. Makiling to the southeast, to its interconnected network of parks and green spaces that are easily accessible to everyone for both play and pleasure. The residential lots themselves are designed in such a way that maximizes Laguna’s fresh air through numerous breezeways, with each home having calming views of

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Get a chance to reflect and appreciate the sight of vibrantly beautiful koi at the NUVALI Lake, where children could enjoy feeding the fish.

Soliento’s lush greenery.

Parks and recreation Anyone who likes communing with nature knows the invaluable effects it has on one's well-being, making it a necessity every once in a while.

At Soliento, this is a year-round experience. Its spacious, inviting parks encourage residents to immerse themselves in the outdoors and engage in a more active lifestyle, energized by the warmth of sunshine and the coolness of the natural breeze. With more than half of the residential lots gathered around these wide green spaces, each about the size of eight basketball courts, and the rest facing either the wide, tree-lined main road, a verdant ridge, or a wide carriageway buffered by landscaped spaces on each side, finding a natural retreat is as easy as simply stepping out of the door.

Expansive parks and open spaces give Soliento’s residents the opportunity to commune not only with nature, but with each other as well. Being creative with these get-togethers, given Soliento's plentiful parks, also adds a sense of fun that has long been missing in more urbanized neighborhoods: picnics, kite-flying, treasure hunts, even poolside parties at the community swimming hole, and much more can be easily organized with the assurance that everyone is in a safe environment.

Republ1q Wakepark If it's an adrenaline rush that everyone is after, the Republ1q Wakepark's water sports is right up their alley. Switch from spectator to participant in a snap, and get on that unique high that only extreme sports can bring.

Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary Take the kids to an educational trip at the Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary, a 17-kilometer forest zone. Complete with biking and jogging trail systems and view decks, nature exploration will be a blast.

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SPECIAL FEAT URE

Soliento's exclusive pocket neighborhood experience provides a calming respite from the city rush.

Soliento addresses every resident’s need for privacy and peace.

By maintaining a very low density of around seven houses built per hectare, Soliento’s families are ensured a very idyllic and personal place of respite in the South.

Far from the madding crowd Of course, there is no such thing as an insulated home life, where everything you'll ever need is found within the walls of your home or your community. This is why Soliento is so strategically located, as it's far enough to keep the blare and chaos of city life away, yet not too far from the products and conveniences that the urban lifestyle offers.

Because Soliento is within NUVALI’s sustainable urban landscape, it enjoys quick access to commercial centers, educational institutions, and leisure amenities. Retail and dining choices are aplenty with the nearby Alabang Town Center, Paseo de Sta. Rosa, and NUVALI's own, commercial center, Solenad. The Republ1q Wakepark, the NUVALI Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary, Camp N and five golf and country clubs in the surrounding areas provide a myriad of opportunities for recreation. Education and health care, even places of work,

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aren't too far away either. Within NUVALI alone are three premium schools: the Everest Academy, Miriam College, and Xavier School. A short drive away are the Asian Hospital and Medical Center and the Southern Luzon Hospital and Medical Center. Offices are also nearby—The Laguna Technopark, Lakeside Evozone, and Evotech One and Two are all minutes away from NUVALI’s residential neighborhoods.

Indeed, suburban dreams have finally found a place to flourish in Soliento, where nature is as much a part of daily life as modern-day comforts. Distant enough from the city yet never too far from it, it's the perfect home for everyone who longs for a more serene life that's built on a sense of community and the simple pleasures that are amplified by living closely with nature.

Ayala Land Premier makes sure that the most important place in your life is also the most exceptional. Environments designed with discernment and taste. Distinctive communities in breathtaking locations, ensuring life and living at its finest. For inquiries and appointments, visit their website at www.ayalalandpremier.com, email ask@ayalalandpremier.com, or call (632). 908.3908.

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SPECIAL FEAT URE

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS When home includes beautiful green parks, the party just has to extend outdoors

There's a case to be made about holding Christmas-themed fêtes outdoors. For one, the cooler weather is just right to get everyone into the holiday spirit.

Couple this with lush surroundings, and all you’ll need left are great food with equally great company.

If you're planning on doing some holiday entertaining this year, try taking it out of the dining room and having a great outdoor setup. Soliento’s many cozy parks make for the perfect Christmas Season brunch setting.

Once you’ve found the perfect spot, play up the charm of the outdoors by using rustic table settings. Opt for the dark, rich feel of autumn colors in choosing which table cloths to use: burgundies, forest greens, and earth tones, relieved by touches of white, gray, and silver through homemade flower arrangements as centerpieces and

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mismatched plates and cutlery. Liven up the atmosphere with your classic Christmas playlist.

Continue the country home feel in the menu by whipping up dishes that evoke the warmth of family. A rich bowl of chickpea and chard soup is both hearty and peppy, assuaging hunger from a skipped breakfast even as it leaves enough space in the stomach for more.

Try chef and former British Vogue food editor Skye Gyngell's recipe for this in her cookbook My Favorite Ingredients.

For the kids and the kids at heart, nothing says family and home quite like pasta tossed in a sauce of extra-virgin olive oil and plum tomatoes. A roast chicken served with mushrooms is a great one-pan meal to make that's just as great to eat, and for dessert, indulge in the goodness of bread transformed into something sweeter that's served

straight out of the oven; check out food stylist and Kinfolk editor María Del Mar Sacasa's recipe for apple blue cheese bread pudding. For drinks, heighten the festive mood by serving guests champagne, and allowing them to opt to add freshly squeezed orange juice for sweet mimosas. Set out antipasto platters of cheese, crackers, and cold cuts as well as oranges, apples, and clusters of grapes around the setting for people to munch on while catching up with each other.

Forget the yearly holiday gatherings at jam-packed, noisy restaurants when you can hold your own get-togethers at the comfort of your own backyard.

Personalize the experience for your guests and get them comfortable with the casual yet charming set-up perfect for an intimate celebration. Enjoy good food, wine, and conversation with family and friends in the luxury of your own abode.

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COV ER STORY

A REVERSAL

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“Aeta men have always assumed the responsibility of preparing food this way, and the simplicity of their tactics is a means to survive when they forage into the high ranges.�

COV ER STORY

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In a meeting between Aetas and a Spaniard on the neutral field of cuisine, it’s the locals who have a thing or two to teach about tradition, improvisation, and cultural survival text hannah cruz PhotograPhy Sonny thakur

The topography of Pampanga has been dotted with lahar and lauded gourmet Gonzalez, “But I’ve never written about food the girly bars of Angeles City for as long as I can remember. and I’ve never eaten at Vask.” It was a last-minute excursion These two images always come to mind when thinking of for everyone involved, and the experience was almost pure, Pampanga—the catastrophically fatal eruption of Mount something genuine to observe for the very first instance. A Pinatubo in 1991 and the prostitutes who still peddle ass love for adventure was the biggest motivator for our small in the red light district long after the departure of American team. “They (the Aetas) weren’t able to catch any frogs servicemen from Clark Air Base. Misfortune and survival are since those require around two days to catch and skin,” our translator informed us. interwoven in its history.

I couldn’t resist but draw up juxtapositions in my head, On a swollen summer day not too long ago, paired with Manila-based Spanish chef Jose Luis “Chele” Gonzalez for the male-dominated ballet before me was a veritable of Vask Modern Tapas and Gastronomic Cuisine, I tableau of then-meets-now. Gonzalez, a native of Santander, discovered another hardwearing face of this province that’s told me that he’s been living in the Philippines for three and a half years. “I declined job offers just a two-hour drive north of Manila, elsewhere to relocate here because of challenged by time but still smiling in cultural ties and similarities,” said the its authenticity. The idea was to get “Primitive and practical, Spaniard. He, too, noticed that our out there with a city chef and cook the binulo method of lunch was at the helm of a group of with the Aetas—or what’s left of them.

Aetas seven men deep, all dressed in Believed to be the earliest inhabitants cooking inside a bamboo the widespread national costume of of the Philippines, the Aetas successfully shaft eradicated the need the homogenous sando-shorts-flip flops evaded numerous attempts at for pots, enabling greater combination worn by everyone from relocation by the Spanish colonists, the tip of Luzon all the way down to who had envisioned of subjugating the mobility when traversing Mindanao; nary was a bahag in sight. indigenous population in controlled through mountains.”

Gonzalez was careful not to disrupt reducciones. Steadfast in their nomadic the process unfolding in front of ways, the Aetas remained in the uplands him. Here was a Spaniard peacefully of Luzon, moving from one temporary observing how the first Filipinos cooked before our society settlement to another for centuries to come.

Only an unsparing force of nature was powerful enough was colonized, before our territory was dictated by outsiders, to alter the way they lived: the violence of Mount Pinatubo before we were made to pray to a god we did not know.

Primitive and practical, the binulo method of cooking chased our autochthonous brethren down from their mountainous habitat and into the towns of Pampanga inside a bamboo shaft eradicated the need for pots, enabling more than two decades ago. The number of Aetas presently greater mobility when traversing through mountains. The living in various Pampanga resettlement areas, which only vital utensil to be carried was the bolo, used for chopping encompass multiple barangays in this part of town, comes plants and gutting animals; fire arose from two sticks of wood rubbed together. Aeta men have always assumed the to a little over 600.

Perched up on a hill that is accessible through a responsibility of preparing food this way, and the simplicity serpentine road, the Villa Maria Resettlement Center in the of their tactics is a means to survive when they forage into the municipality of Porac is home to a population of Aetas. We high ranges. The women remain at home.

Gonzalez observed the Aeta men rinsing sections of green darted past its cement brick houses with sheet metal roofs, which hung against an arid forest full of parched trees. The bamboo and lining the insides with banana leaves. “It would sound of Christian rock music was emanating from the be really interesting to see how I can cook using bamboo at barren Inararo Christian Church nearby—Creed, or some Vask,” he wondered out loud. The cuisine at Vask as of late has evolved, becoming more steeped in Filipino culture, “using other jock rock quintet.

It was by an empty, open-air, singular schoolroom convent the same ingredients with a gastronomic twist.”

From where we were sitting, concrete columns framed the that a traditional Aeta meal was being assembled for us visitors. Banana leaves were unfurled on a utilitarian wooden Aeta men cooking under the sun. The panorama was lined table. “I’m really sorry to tell you,” I confided to the much- with a few women and children, but none of them partook

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“In the past, Aetas had been resilient to human invaders.

Their way of life was only irreparably disrupted by a singular act of nature, when the fiery mudflow rumbled down from an awakening volcano. Was change good or bad? Who decided when was it welcome?”

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The Santander native found similarities between our culture and his native Spain’s. It was basis enough for him to relocate to Manila.

COV STORY COV ERER STORY

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“A few lessons were reaped from our daytrip to Pampanga: evolution is natural.”

in the action. There was also no exchange of names with the locals except for a fleeting introduction with Barangay Captain Benzon, or “Cap.” He showed us how to make disposable cups from folded banana leaves. Later, we witnessed the men eschew drinking glasses in favor of these.

Along with the rest of the Aetas at the Villa Maria Resettlement Center, Cap did not speak Tagalog. A translator decrypted his Sambalic mother tongue of mag-antsi. We learned the names of the leaves that would be used to flavor the binulo: balinaknak, kaibangbang, pingol bato, and baoukuk.

“Did I spell the names of the leaves correctly?” I asked Cap, showing him my scribble-filled notebook. He glanced at the words on the page but did not say anything, and went back to descaling bangus. Our translator spoke over my shoulder, “Sometimes, they can’t read very well.”

The balinaknak would feature most prominently in the day’s feast, used as an intense souring agent in lieu of vinegar. Balinaknak broth was made from simmering the leaves in salted water. Clear and reddish purple in color, it tasted slightly herbal with a tart bite. Although all the leaves tasted acetous, the balinaknak was the strongest in flavor.

The bamboo was flushed with water and further stuffed with rice, leaves (banana to line, bitter herbs to taste), and meat (either pork or bangus, both bought from the market since we didn’t give them enough of a heads up to slaughter a pig or go fishing). Salt and Ajinomoto seasoning were used to season the proteins. Then, the cylindrical husks were perched above a bonfire to boil their contents. Wait—Ajinomoto? When did flavor-enhancing MSG become part of the all-natural Aeta diet? “In 1991, after Mount Pinatubo erupted and we had to come down from the mountains to the towns,” replied Cap. An honest answer, at least.

Saba bananas and cassava roots were roasted on the fire, coming directly in touch with the wood and stone that kept the flame alive. These starches were served to us first as an appetizer. Neither was seasoned. “Eat to live, not live to eat,” I thought to myself. I surmised that they were consumed first to placate hunger and provide energy for further foraging. The cassava was the winner of this round, softer and more talcum-like in texture than the compact and gummy saba.

As we waited for the rest of the dishes to arrive, our guide imparted to us that the younger generation of Aetas are seeking further education, taking an even bigger step away from their customary nomadic lifestyle; one had just recently graduated from the University of the Philippines College of Law. In the past, Aetas had been resilient to human invaders.

Their way of life was only irreparably disrupted by a singular act of nature, when the fiery mudflow rumbled down from

an awakening volcano. Was change good or bad? Who decided when it was welcome?

The bamboo had transmuted from a vibrant green into a blackish brown. This meant that the binulo was ready, an hour and a half after preparations began. Aetas used the bolo to shuck stalks of their contents, and the rice slid out of the wooden casing compact like the more glutinous variety, though at the same time, it was not sticky at all. Gonzalez held up a solid portion of the rice, still wrapped in banana leaf. “This is good to take home.”

The bangus and pork binulo both had hints of sinigang to them, but they were less sour and didn’t kick you with a mouthful of salt. Flavors were smoky, earthy, and aromatic.

Dishes were by no means out-of-this-world amazing, but the depth of character they possessed was an exceptional peek into a way of life that will disappear soon. Cap admitted that binulo was only used for special occasions these days. “Our favorites, in this order, are boiled paniki (bats), bayawak (monitor lizard), and sawa (python).” Most especially the paniki; that particular delicacy would cause furor at fiestas.

Another two hours, and we are transported to Gonzalez’s domain, the kitchen at Vask in all its plush modernity. He quickly delegated for the bangus he had brought back from the Aeta to be cleaned by his male sous chef, mirroring the patriarchal Aeta arrangement. Then, careful not to spill even a single drop, he emptied the precious balinaknak cordillera broth into a shallow pot. “I’m using the same technique for the fish,” he explained. “Just simmer it in the water with all the herbs.” While we were still up in the hills of Porac, he had stressed that he didn’t want to disrespect any aspect of Filipino cuisine whenever he applies his own touch. “What I’m looking for actually is the same flavor.”

The packed binulo rice was sliced into inch-thick discs, panfried in olive oil “to make it crispy and more sophisticated.”

Gonzalez puts emphasis on the process of his craft; even when he is experimenting, he is precise in his mission. I watched him drop the balinaknak, baoukuk, and kaibangbang into a deep fryer full of olive oil, turning the foliage crisp and magical. Chunks of cassava the size of steak fries joined the leaves in their transformation. He used salt to season, but while the Aetas had Ajinomoto, he used olive oil.

His finished re-imagination of bangus binulo is arranged on a dish from Iligan, the place of origin of his sous chef—uniting two far removed localities on one plate. In a sense, the Spaniard did divide and conquer, but this time with so much more mindfulness and appreciation of an object’s origins.

The bangus still tasted like our sticky and redolent afternoon with the Aetas, but a brush of olive oil applied to the skin was

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COV ER STORY “I declined job offers elsewhere to relocate here because of cultural ties and similarities,” said the Spaniard.

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COV ER STORY

a pleasant reminder that our physical and temporal setting had changed drastically and quickly. As for the rounds of rice, they embodied a different dimension now: the flavor of smoke was intensified with the quick slap of a heated pan, and the cassava held itself together, more intact and less chalky.

However, the real standout was the deep fried balinaknak, baoukuk, and kaibangbang leaves. “No limits,” as Gonzalez says of his philosophy, and that’s what happened to the indescribable explosion of tastes that came with the fried leaves. Salty, bitter, sweet, sour—it was never ending. Over bites of subtle fish and punchy herbs, the chef began to lament the emotionless culinary reiterations that predominate Manila’s fine dining scene. “The trend now, I think, is most chefs who work at hotels import produce from France, the States, and Australia. It’s like they’re blind and don’t want to go outside or see what’s going on.”

A few lessons were reaped from our daytrip to Pampanga: evolution is natural. Though initially disruptive when a sudden reorganization occurs, adapting to change enables societies to survive. The big Aeta reveal was that the oncedefiant people have come to terms with assimilating, but not completely, or at least not yet. They hold on to their old practices, though these are slowly disappearing as their descendants go further into cities to pursue higher education.

It shouldn’t take a foreigner like Gonzalez to remind us that there are Filipino culinary traditions we should appreciate and propagate, that value lies in the indigenous practices that we often overlook. We all should explore more to see through the grit and grime enveloping physical terrains.

Underneath all that dust and neglect lie unique exploits, if we only paid as much attention to what is going on locally as we do internationally.

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FEAT URE

THE PHANTASM A

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FEAT URE

LIFE AGORICAL

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Cecille Baun trades on the gory and the macabre text Wincy aquino ong PhotograPhy JilSon Seckler tiu

The picture in your head when the term “prosthetic artist” gets mentioned would probably be that of a grizzled shop instructor, his gray beard attesting to the hours he’d put into his craft. You’d look at black-and-white photographs of the greats: Stan Winston, Rick Baker, Jim Henson, and Ray Harryhausen—industrious man-children who played around in their creature shops, turning things you can buy from a hardware store into monsters, aliens, zombies, ghosts, and all things that make our skin crawl, our imaginations warm and humming.

Now if you visit the creature shop of the Philippines’ most celebrated prosthetics artist, you’ll be smirking in disbelief as a pocket garden of orchids greet you on the way.

Cecille Baun is a sweet old lady full of pep, a dead-ringer for the journalist Jullie Yap Daza. There’s nary a hint of her 78 years that shows. The field of movie prosthetics rarely is a woman’s domain, but in a nation where the women are always intrepid (more so than the men), her chosen profession is hardly a surprise; you’d be expecting a frazzle-haired punk, then find out that the person behind all these menacing props is a doting mother of five.

In a raspy voice, Baun says, “I was a housewife once and all I did was tend to our house. But just after a few years, my husband died so I had to make a living since I had five children to feed.”

Making ends meet to support her family, she got involved in the makeup retail trade through Avon Cosmetics; she was 33 then. From there, a stint as a makeup artist for Repertory Philippines (where she had to suit up Celia Laurel as a white lady) led to more opportunities.

Her Quezon City studio is a high-ceilinged patio, stacked to the rafters with face molds of celebrities she has met throughout her decades-long career. Inside, it’s like an abattoir from a Hammer Horror film: strewn around the place are mutilated limbs, bloodied Venus de Milos, vats of fake blood, and jars that hold brushes of all sizes. What are

these grotesqueries made of? “Alginate, cast stone, plaster of Paris, latex, silicon, and latex foam,” she recites, as if she was reading off a grocery list.

“I didn’t attend makeup school. I was only able to finish high school,” Baun says. “I rely on my instincts when I work.

Sometimes, solutions come to me in my sleep.”

A cursory glance at her portfolio can only confirm her devotion to the craft. Aside from the common Halloweeniana, she can replicate tissue damage, fourth-degree burns, and genetic anomalies that come straight out of medical textbooks.

One of her early breaks in the international scene was for a Premiere Productions grindhouse film called Night of the Cobra Woman. The plot revolves around an African changeling who lures men into the forest. In the movie, Baun and her crew had to work with snakes. From there she developed a phobia for the slithering reptiles.

Snakes notwithstanding, she had found her calling and continued her work on numerous local and international films. Her filmography and her list of co-conspirators are enviable: Peque Gallaga (Oro, Plata, Mata), Marilou Diaz-Abaya (José Rizal), and Chito Roño (Spirit Warriors).

For schlockier fare, she had partaken in the creation of Regal Films’ storied Shake, Rattle & Roll franchise. Aside from the horror genre, she has also dabbled in war movies during their heyday, when the demand for prosthetic services was high. Baun had the honor of working with acclaimed Hollywood directors John Irvin on Hambuger Hill and Oliver Stone on Platoon.

On the long weekends of Hallow’s Eve and All Saints Day, she moonlights as the go-to set decorator in Ayala Alabang’s infamous village haunted houses. Her current project is anybody’s guess, but she whips out a Satan-faced infant smothered in placenta, its umbilical cord dangling like a worm from the Netherworld.

“I never really chose to be a prosthetic artist. It was something that just happened,” she says, a smile in her eyes.

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FEAT URE Cecille Baun’s Quezon City studio is filled with dummies she made from the ’70s to the present (left). She painstakingly makes face molds by hand (below, left). Baun paints the tiyanak, an iconic demonbaby used in Pinoy horror films (below, right).

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FEAT URE

Baun did not have any formal training as a prosthetic artist. She starts by picturing the faces in her mind before scultping them (above). A photo of the prosthetic makeup she did for a character on TV with third degree burns (right). A face mold of Celia Rodriguez, an actress known for her antagonist roles (extreme right).

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FEAT URE

“I didn’t attend makeup school.

I was only able to finish high school. I rely on my instincts when I work. Sometimes, solutions come to me in my sleep.”

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SPECIAL FEAT URE

SMART CHOICES

The way to a greener, more conscious way of living comes with a worthy price text DeniSe Danielle alcantara PhotograPhy triStan taMayo

“We simply want to help consumers and producers to choose a better way of life, and one way we believe we can achieve that is by presenting them with healthier, more sustainable alternatives. We’re also giving producers more access to market their products and the opportunity to share their stories to people, too,” says Muni’s chief collaborator Jen Horn.

Muni, a group of entrepreneurs, continues its efforts by encouraging Filipino consumers to be critical and conscious about how they shop, eat, travel, work, and play every day. Now on its second season, they brought together merchants that sell pre-loved, locally handcrafted, and eco-friendly products for a two-part event series in Capitol Commons, Muni Market v2.0, on Oct. 25 and Nov. 8. The demand for healthier options and local products has been continuously growing for the past year.

Hence, the community grew from 16 merchants during the first Muni Market Day to over 40 merchants. You

will find anything from flavored kale chips—dehydrated to become crispy, and not fried—to backpacks made of saluyot woven at the foot of Mt. Mayon, Bicol. With good foot traffic on both days, customers enjoyed and discovered different vegetarian food options like Pipino Vegetarian, Kitchen Revolution, and Edgy Veggy; local beverage brands like Stanford & Shaw, KKK Coffee, and Tsaa Laya; healthy snack choices like Take Root and Nipa Foods; and community-driven social enterprises like Tupai Dumagat Sculptors and Gugu.

Its mission to educate consumers and to possibly convert them to live a sustainable and eco-friendly lifestyle is at the forefront of the event. MUNI also organized talks, forums and workshops on healthy food, urban farming, upcycling and cause-driven entrepreneurship. The success of the second Muni Market is the beginning of greater things to come for local merchants and the growing community of conscious shoppers.

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ST YLE

OF VAIN SUBTLETIES The uncanny sense when less imposing objects become the subject of the inquisitive eye styling eDlene caBral PhotograPhy JoSePh PaScual

Gold locket pendant, P4,250, Nadine Delphin Paris, Cura V, Power Plant Mall.

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ST YLE Victorian magnifying glass, P1,850; fluorescent clutch, P17,900, Kotur, both Cura V, Power Plant Mall.

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ST YLE

Long vintage-inspired necklace, P4,950 each, Nadine Delphin Paris, Cura V, Power Plant Mall.

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haIr bullet reyes. Makeup camille villaruel. Models kat and mackenzie of elite manila.

Brass fish clutch with malachite, P28,350, Gabriel Martel; tube earrings, P3,300, Nadine Delphin Paris, both Cura V, Power Plant Mall.

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ST YLE

Brass with rope bangle, P2,650 each, Cada Dia, Cura V, Power Plant Mall.

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ST YLE Tatjan stingray clutch, P52,000, Janina Dizon Hoschka, Cura V, Power Plant Mall.

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URBAN RETRO

The streets are calling for modern metropolitan wear where the edgy and classic intertwine

1. Cropped sweater, P499, H&M, SM Megamall.

2. Bag, P3,799, Charles and Keith, Gateway Mall.

3. Jacket, P4,995, Bershka, SM Megamall.

4. Hat, P1,490, H&M, SM Megamall.

5. Pants, P1,250, Mango, TriNoma Mall.

6. Sunglasses, P15,995, Oliver Peoples, Sarabia Optical, Power Plant Mall.

7. Shoes, P4,995, Toms, SM Megamall.

8. Skirt, P2,595, Zara, TriNoma Mall.

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EATS

Rivaling Tim Ho Wan’s pork buns, Tuan Tuan's barbecue snow buns have a crispy, toasted outer layer with flavorful charsiu or pork barbecue filling.

SPONTANEOUS GATHERING

Homey Chinese comfort cuisine infused with a French flair text allec teStaDo PhotograPhy JilSon Seckler tiu

In Chinese food culture, the word “round” has a very significant meaning. It symbolizes union and gathering things together as directly translated in the Chinese word “tuan.” TuanTuan, a newly-opened Chinese brasserie in the country, is rooted in this idea, and brings in a surprising mix of polar elements. One might expect to see Hong Kong cuisine, typically characterized by familiar dishes like pork buns, noodles, and steamed vegetables, to be served in simple, uncomplicated settings. What greets the customer upon entering the restaurant though, are sparkling chandeliers, elegant dark wood chairs and tables neatly arranged, and a faux indoor garden with plants sprawling on the walls. The interiors, ambience, and servers—complete with berets and red scarves— look every bit like a setting for a French patisserie. Don’t be fooled though, as you won’t find scones or high tea here. Serving the best of Hong Kong comfort food with

modern French-inspired interiors, TuanTuan makes this distinct dining experience its signature mark.

Fans of pork buns won’t be disapponted with the crispy snow buns as they are perfectly toasted on the outside with soft, sweet barbecued pork on the inside. A filling bowl of the chicken and mushroom congee has a creamy, smooth consistency, while the Mui Garden Curry, a dish rich with a blend of spices, coconut milk, and flavorful beef brisket, is perfect for those looking for stronger Asian flavors. A standout from the newspaper-style menu is the signature halibut soup, which uses a soup base made from fresh pacific cod imported from Canada. The taste is milky yet light, complimented by the subtle flavors of the fish.

And if the name Chinese Brasserie isn't enough indication of TuanTuan’s seamless coalescence of east and west, dining while listening to French jazz music will surely transport you to the best of both worlds.

TuanTuan Chinese Brasserie. Third Floor, Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, Ortigas, Mandaluyong City. 632-7483.

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EATS The modern French setting features an indoor vertical faux garden (right).

Honey Garlic Spare Ribs (below, left).

What makes their curry different is that its main ingredient is US premium beef rib and tendon, swimming in a rich, coconut-based sauce (below right).

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EATS Some of Osaka Ohsho’s signature dishes include salad drizzled with a Japanese signature honey citrus miso dressing and Mabo Tofu Fuwatoro Tenshin Han with steamed Japanese Koshihikari rice enveloped in a fluffy egg omelette dome.

MORE THAN BITE-SIZED The side dish shines at Osaka Ohsho

text MarBBie tagaBucBa PhotograPhy SaM liM

Even Osaka Ohsho’s chef Alfe Nadonza admits gyoza is best eaten with something else. While training in Osaka, Japan, months before the Philippine branch of the Japanese chain championing the side dish opened, he had slurped ramen with his original gyoza, like most of us do—or at least, in our first encounter of the Japanese’ bigger, thicker take on the dumpling.

At Osaka Ohsho, you’ll get six to 12 pieces a serving, enough to pinpoint what’s special about their gyoza. It could be the filling. The original gyoza is made of three different cuts of quality Japanese pork, minced garlic, pounded ginger, and crisp, waterless cabbage grounded together—its order a secret, flown in fresh and regularly from the Osaka Ohsho commissary in Japan. Two classic variants, one with cheese, another with nori, are the first of Osaka Ohsho’s experimentation.

Relish Group’s marketing manager Bobby Vallar recommends dipping them into a mixture of chilli and Osaka Ohsho’s own miso sauce, a blend of Marukome Miso, ginger, and sugar. While the gyozas do burst with flavor on their own, the original sauce, a mix of Yamasa soy sauce, Mirin rice wine, and vinegar, adds a nice contrasting sourness.

Bacon and cheese gyoza and a dessert gyoza—banana and peanut butter with vanilla ice cream—keep things interesting.

The bacon is fried until brown, adding a mouth-watering crunch to the thin crispness of the dumpling wrapper. The banana and peanut butter gyoza, meanwhile, comes in four

pieces, and is like a bite-size crepe.

Their wraps are delicate, thinner than most gyozas’ (but still thicker than wonton wrap). “Your hands touch it softly; don’t press the wrap, otherwise the filling spills out,” Nadonza says as he sways side to side, scooping, swooping, folding, and wrapping in a rhythm called the Gyoza Dance, taught to help chefs perfect the technique that has been passed down to those who have been making Japan’s number one gyoza since 1969. Their gyozas’ distinct, slight crisp and softness come from a cooking technique that requires grilling, steaming, and frying in exact time measurements and temperatures.

For a specialty restaurant, Osaka Ohsho’s big menu offers an array of mains like Black Vinegar Chicken, stir-fried after marinated in the original sauce. But the sides, of course, get the special treatment. Gyoza’s usual partner, ramen, requires another specialty, which, according to Vallar, Osaka Ohsho prefers to leave to those who have it; here, Nadonza likes his gyoza with Special Fuwatoro Tenshin Han, a rice bowl with scrambled egg and Japanese gravy good for two (or one carboloader). The Osaka Ohsho salad is basically kani salad, but each ingredient is bigger. The kani is grilled, and the mango bits are round, all succulent.

Their portion sizes are not for quick bites, as the warm lights, benches, and banquettes beckon lingering. You’ll keep reaching for another gyoza, feel like you’re having a light snack, until you’re reaching for your last piece, already satisfied.

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EATS The simple dish of gyoza requires a complicated cooking technique to make the wrap crispy while maintaining the juiciness of the filling (right).

The booths in the restaurant have seats papered with newsprint (below).

The chef prepares the gyoza with careful precision (below, right).

Osaka Ohsho. Third Floor, Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, Ortigas, Mandaluyong City..

0917-8285011. www.facebook.com/OsakaOhshoPH.

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RECIPE

INSIDE SCOOP

End meals with the refreshing sweetness of Crema Catalana con Mango Purée text charlie carBungco PhotograPhy anD styling SaM liM

For the Crema Catalana mixture 1. Combine milk, zest of lemon and INGREDIENTS orange, cinnamon stick, and vanilla 18 oz. whole milk pod, and let the mixture boil gently 1/2 lemon zest and 1/2 orange zest for 15 minutes, until the milk is 1/2 cinnamon stick infused with aroma.

7 egg yolks 2. While waiting, combine the egg 1 vanilla pod yolk, corn flour, and sugar and whisk 6 1/2 tbsp. and 1/2 tbsp. sugar until it is pale and creamy. (for the mixture and for garnishing 3. When the milk mixture is done, respectively) strain everything and put the milk on 2 tsp. corn flour medium heat once again. Add the egg For the mango purée mixture slowly into the milk until it 1 1/2 cups mango flesh thickens in around 5 to 7 minutes.

3 1/2 tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. corn starch 10 ml. water

CREMA CATALANA

4. When the mixture is enough to coat at the back of a wooden spoon, it means it’s already done.

5.Pour the mango puree on the bottom part of brown ramekin then layer the Crema Catalana on top of it. Cover everything with grease-proof or parchment paper to prevent a crust from forming. Let it cool in the fridge for around 30 to 40 minutes.

6. Remove the paper, sprinkle some sugar atop the Crema Catalana, and use a blow torch to caramelize the sugar. Top off with mint leaves or small fruits.

PREPARATION

For the mango purée 1. Using a blender, blend the mango flesh with the sugar.

2. In a bowl, make a slurry (a thickening agent) by mixing water with corn starch.

3. Put the blended mango on the sauce pot and start to medium heat. Slowly add in the slurry to the mango puree to thicken it.

4. Put the sauce pot in a bigger bowl filled with ice and water to cool down its contents quickly.

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T HE GET

ORNAMENTS OF TIME Lending contemporary form to jewelry belonging to a bygone age text PriStine l. De leon

When interior designer Natalya Lagdameo decided to make fashion jewelry for women, the leap from large to miniscule pieces did not come off as startling. The change in medium notwithstanding, her flair for design still promised a distinct aesthetic. Her talent, however, owes itself not only to her taste. Seizing inspiration from the precolonial and the Spanish age, Lagdameo incorporates history in her designs.

Just as history repeats itself, fashion, too, revives its trends. Snatches of the preHispanic age are evident in Lagdameo’s motifs. Here in her collection, it’s as if forgetfulness were criminal. We see a past preserved, antiquity pining for the quality of timelessness. Jewelry traditions of bygone eras re-emerge: gold-plated silver is linked to pearl and precious stones as the design emulates the sun’s triumphant rays. They conjure up images of royalty, in an era where tribal kings and queens had brandished power through ornaments made of gold.

In Lagdameo’s line, jewelry is equally rich in substance. The line goes beyond visual appeal and prides itself for being assembled from locally-sourced materials. Gold, silver, bronze, and brass are intertwined with tribal pieces, alongside classic adornments such as pearls, stones, and woven textiles. Lagdameo’s travels around the archipelago have spawned a collection of these native elements, alongside an accumulation of stories underlying each piece. Jewelry-making, to Lagdameo, involves the process of studying patterns: the careful unravelling of symbolisms entrenched in the designs. If this were a cult of tribal history, then each accessory is a relic; yet far from having the unchanging quality of antiques, the ornaments in the collection meld the past with modern style.

The line makes use of contemporary forms to recreate its age-old essence.

Natalya Lagdameo Jewelry. 703 Nueve de Febrero, Barangay Pleasant Hills, Mandaluyong City. nlagdameo@gmail.com. www.natalyalagdameo.com.

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