February 2017 Volume 11 | Issue 06
HARVEST SEASON
CONT ENTS 18 STYLE Championing local wear
12 COVER STORY Berna Romulo-Puyat empowers local farmers
Cover photo by Shaira Luna 23 EATS Simple cooking elicits savory flavors
FEBRUARY 2017 03 HEALTH The lovebug�s side effects
10 NORTHERNER Tracing emotions in film
04 FIXTURE Buddhist teachings fuel creativity
26 RECIPE Borrowing food from Indonesia
06 SPACE A creative hub in Escolta
28 THE GET Fire in your mouth
EDITOR’S NOTE Passion forward Do what you love and help along the way. Not everyone is lucky to find themselves within the right circumstances to pursue their dreams and earn a living as well. Many have tried and failed, but with the help of the internet, it’s now much easier to put your name out there and do what you love outside your 9-to-5 job. There are also those who strived long and hard to get to where they are now. In this issue, we sit down with filmmaker Petersen Vargas, who has come a long way from writing down short stories on quarter pads of paper to watching his films unfold on the big screen. We also discuss how to beat creative blocks.
In our cover story, Department of Agriculture Undersecretary Berna Romulo-Puyat shares her relationship with food. Growing up among family and friends who love to eat and cook good food, she has now been championing the cause of women farmers, organic agriculture, and youth-oriented agricultural programs for a little over a decade. She encourages everyone: “Grow your own food. Eat real food. Visit a farm. Shake the hand that feeds you. Know the story behind the food that you eat. Meet your farmers and fisherfolk. Learn more about your local or regional food history and cultural dishes.”
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HEALT H
NOT SO LOVESICK
Being in love boosts your well-being in more ways than one TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR ILLUSTRATION GRACE DE LUNA
A racing heart, flushed cheeks, and butterflies in the stomach—most people would recognize these sensations as part of the feeling of falling in love. And it�s true when they say love is powerful: More than the warm and fuzzy feeling it gives, being happily in love goes beyond skin-deep. The same brain chemicals linked to drug addiction are activated when a person is in love, thus the feeling that love, much like drugs, can be intoxicating. Among the feel-good hormones released when one is in a loved-up state is dopamine, which is responsible for making couples feel excited about each other. Dopamine also regulates one�s mood, improves creativity, and heightens the energy level to a hypomaniclike state. Testosterone, meanwhile, is the one responsible for sparking the desire for sex. It complements oxytocin, the hormone that nurtures intimacy and binds partners closer. For new moms, oxytocin also enhances milk production. Generally, being in love boosts the well-being, starting with the most basic protection: keeping away the pesky cold virus. People who have been bitten by the love bug are found to be more immune to the common cold. This is also true for couples who engage in healthy arguments without retreating or stonewalling each other. They tend to develop better immune systems, contrary to those who resort to animosity, who show a larger decline in immediate immune system function.
Having a significant other is also helpful for stabilizing blood pressure. To have someone to vent to can defer the negative effects of stress and can prevent the spur of cardiovascular diseases. Love also plays a significant role in the fight to conquer cancer. Researchers from the University of Iowa studied ovarian cancer patients who have strong connections to others, specifically in the romantic aspect. The patients were found to have more robust white blood cells, which are the ones responsible for fighting off cancerous ones. Ultimately, people who are in love and stay in love attain longer life spans compared to those who aren�t. This can be attributed to humans naturally seeking social connection. Longevity is associated with the joy and optimism that a happy relationship brings. Marriage counselor and sex researcher Carol Ellison, PhD, once said the love bond is the brass ring of any successful union. Conflicts are inevitable between partners, but prolonged hostility can affect both of their health adversely. With the right approach to conflict resolution, couples can benefit from the long-term benefits of loving each other and prove that love can move mountains, indeed. “An ideal relationship gives you a place to come home to and recharge your battery. Sitting down with your partner makes you feel calmer. You�re in a secure nest, and you�re less stressed,” Ellison says. “How could that not be good for you?”
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FIXT URE
MIND CONTROL
Fighting off creative blocks with Buddhism TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR ILLUSTRATION EDRIC DELA ROSA
The humdrum of everyday life can be mindnumbing, leading to creative blocks that are, at their least, frustrating and, at their worst, risky to any career that is based on the generation of ideas. People encounter different creative blocks that require varying solutions. The most common would be when a person finds trouble solving a problem, as they are locked within a limited perspective. Thus, they fail to see other possible options and are generally unable to think straight. Studies over the years have found meditation as a dynamic tool for remedying the condition. Practicing the Buddhist mindset impacts the brain in myriad ways, with the cultivation of a more compassionate and content nature in a person the best evidence of its effectiveness. Dzogchen, the highest teaching of Buddhism, teaches people to “rest in the nature of mind” and to let go of all unnecessary emotions. In the context of science, University of Wisconsin professor Richard Davidson said the human mind can be trained, much like how the body develops through physical exercise. One of the teachings of Buddhism is how to conquer oneself. Learning how to not be overwhelmed by thoughts can help break off a mental block. As the saying goes, “You may not be able to stop a bird from flying over your head, but you can certainly stop him from building a nest in your hair.” In this case, mindfulness is the key. Meditation can
activate happy links in the brain and positively affect a person�s attention and decision-making while bolstering their resiliency. Emotional barriers are also considered as a type of creative block. The unknown can induce certain feelings, such as confusion and fear. For Buddhism, training the mind to think positively can affect the outcome of an undertaking. A popular quote from Buddha goes, “All wrongdoing arises because of mind. If the mind is transformed, can wrongdoing remain?” Thoughts can become good things when the thinking determines the actions. The ears also play a crucial role, as they can cause a creative block in terms of communication. Not everyone relates to each other on the same level of understanding, thus raising the potential for misunderstanding in every interaction. Seeking to understand is one of Buddhism�s lessons: It teaches people to cease anger first before taking action in any situation. Listening will give you a better understanding of a situation and can make you work more towards attaining peace than appeasing the superficial need to prove that you are right. It is common to feel stuck or perplexed with one�s thoughts; everyone does once in a while. But the brain is also touted as the most powerful tool, and we have the capacity to control it. Adopting the fundamental principles of Buddhism has been proven to make daily life more zen, whether or not one is a follower of its teachings.
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SPACE The main area of One/Zero Design Collective�s office where the architects and clients exchange ideas.
ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES One/Zero Design Collective�s Escolta location reflects much of what it stands for
TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
On a typical working day, architect Arts Serrano is constantly on his laptop, his colorful polo shirt setting off well against the predominantly white walls of his office. The space is bare, with a few adornments placed here and there. Near where Serrano works, a life-sized standee of Dolphy is mounted—an amusing homage to how the late actor once set up a production house in the very same room. The focal point in the office, however, is a huge, clear window that gives a panoramic view of modern-day Escolta. “The first thing I really fell in love with was the view,” says Serrano, the principal architect of One/Zero Design Collective. “When we came in, the windows were really big, and I wanted them to be the highlight.” His vision for the space, which is on the fifth floor of First United Building, is to be non-conclusive and very transparent. As a general rule, he didn�t want anything blocking the view. Another source of curiosity in the office is the conspicuous use of reinforced steel rods as the base of the main area�s two tables. At the far end of the room,
a small outlet is tucked, brought out for use during client meetings. The interiors are kept to a minimum, in keeping with the firm’s name. In mathematics, the result of one divided by zero, Serrano explains, is undefined. “In my practice, and I guess in everybody else�s, we are constantly trying to define ourselves. Our cities are evolving fast, and it is this dynamic quality that we are trying to interpret in the spaces we design—may they be in old places rich in character or new places looking to connect to a deeper context.” One/Zero Design Collective was established about a year ago but has quickly piqued the curiosity of many, not the least by its office found in an unassuming location that has seen better days in the past. Serrano quickly brushes away this notion, however. “We see Escolta as a creative hub, as a maker district and cultural district. It won�t really be a corporate area like the glossier parts of our city. We just have to accept that it has limitations. I think right now, it is perfect for this type of creative industry,” he says. Working as a freelance architect before he established
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SPACE Principal architect Arts Serrano made use of his own books as part of the office�s minimalist design.
“We all have our eyes on the same goal: to bring more people to Escolta, uplift what people know about it and don�t know about it, and present what we can as makers.” the studio, Serrano wanted a space of his own where the community itself will inspire him. “It made sense, as an architect anyway, to be inspired by the views I have here, like the Roman Santos building, the Regina building, and the Santa Cruz building, which are all part of the 1920s movement of some architects to define Manila,” he says. To him, Escolta is a huge chunk of the Filipino identity. One of Serrano’s overarching goals is to propagate the authenticity of the forgotten area, where European architecture still stands and is gradually awakening towards revitalization. He admits that the location choice was a bit of business risk at first. “Before, security was really bad, and after 7 p.m., everything would be shut off,” he describes. But with more people realizing the revived action within the district, he says Escolta has been vastly improving. It’s a kind of buzz that Serrano, along with other startup groups based in the building, like the artist-run collective 98B Collaboratory, wants to nurture. “We all have our eyes on the same goal: to bring more people to Escolta, uplift what people know about it and don�t know about it, and present what we can as makers.” In fact, One/Zero and 98B had collaborated in the construction and design of what is now the Hub, an incubation space that allows concessionaires to present their crafts. It�s one of the reasons why Serrano finds fulfillment in working in Escolta. “Being based here, I get to do a lot of work with other creatives. What I realized in the past year is that the value of collaboration is really the way to go,” he says. “We have community-building, and I get influenced by them. It�s a good exchange of how we all work.” Currently, the creatives are working on activating other parts of the First United Building, such as a co-working space on the fifth floor, ideas for a transient backpacker�s hostel, and more creative offices. There’s still a long way to go until Escolta finds its old glory. Serrano says they are trying to introduce new means of experiencing old spaces, in hopes of inspiring other old buildings in the area to follow suit. “We�re oversaturated with the city, and Escolta has more character than any place else,” Serrano says. “Many would say it is dead, but I don�t think it is.”
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Arts Serrano easily found the potential of Escolta�s revitalization. He chose the space despite seeing some initial risks.
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SPACE
A direct view of the iconic Regina Building in Escolta from one of One/Zero�s biggest window.
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NORT HERNER
FADE IN
Petersen Vargas sets scenes rich in melancholy TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
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NORT HERNER “I like watching and making sad films,” reads filmmaker Petersen Vargas� Instagram bio. In his tiny apartment in Pasig, the afternoon sun floods the space. Amidst the jumble of books and boxes of DVDs, Vargas� cat Wong Kat Wai, named after the famous Hong Kong filmmaker, sits placidly, her tail waving. There�s no sense of melancholy here, but there remains a hint of enigma in the 24-year-old filmmaker. Vargas has an innate interest in storytelling. When he was younger, in fact, he used to write stories on 1/4 pads of paper and sell them to his classmates at P10 each. As he grew older, he started leaning towards morose narratives. Vargas’ most notable films Lisyun Qng Geografia, his thesis film at the UP Film Institute, and 2 Cool 2 Be 4gotten, his first full-length film, both revolve around the themes of friendship and lost love. “Sadness is the feeling that I understand better,” he says. What’s with the sad films? I think it comes from my personality. I don’t find myself funny. People describe me as emotional to a fault. I’ve always found it satisfying to cry over movies. In fact, before, my qualifier for finding a film good is if it made me cry.
“I treat personal work as fiction so I’d be desensitized to the actual pain and sadness it caused me.”
Wong Kar-wai is one of Petersen Vargas� influences. “I guess I like his restlessness.When you watch his films, you immediately know it�s his.”
I think art in itself is sad. The process of creating something is like suffering. In filmmaking, they also liken it to giving birth. 2 Cool came with birth pains. When you’ve given birth to the material, the actual birthing, the screening of the film is weirdly the most painful part. What would you say is the saddest film that you’ve seen? Actually, the saddest ones don’t make you cry. There’s just this very heavy feeling inside of you after you’ve watched them. Your first full-length film was written by a different person. How’s your directorial process? I got to be a fan of the material. When I first read [fellow Kapampangan filmmaker] Jason Paul Laxamana’s script, it was as if I were a fan digging into this awesome material. I studied it free of my personal biases. When it’s your own work, it’s harder, because it’s a dialogue with yourself. With 2 Cool, it was like having a dialogue with someone who was very different from me. I treat personal work as fiction so I’d be desensitized to the actual pain and sadness it caused me. The process is actually cleansing. If your life were a film with a three-act structure, what point would you be at now? I hope it’s like a Lav Diaz epic and we are just in the first 15 minutes. I hope the first long shot is not finished yet. I’m so hungry to do so many things, and I think there’s more to do. 2 Cool would be the inciting incident, because it’s that one thing that changes the trajectory.
And what’s the music you imagine playing during those first 15 minutes? There’s this band called Memory Drawers, and I’m delighted with their songs. Maybe is a favorite and I love how it captures a moment spectacularly. I love how well they know their music. What is one thing that you don’t want people to remember about you? How do you answer that? I guess I don’t want to be remembered as that sad filmmaker. I want to be remembered as someone who gave his heart to his films, to his work.
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WORD OF MOUTH NORTHERNliving
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COV ER STORY Berna RomuloPuyat�s first ever food discovery is the Chicharon Camiling from Tarlac, her dad�s hometown.
White top,Rajo Man, Rajo!, Shangri-La Plaza Mall. Blue skirt, Gabbie Sarenas, gabbiesarenas.com.
How to sow the seeds of local produce and farmer appreciation, according to Berna Romula-Puyat TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY SHAIRA LUNA
On a previous business trip, as I was waiting in line to board a plane going to Isabela, I spotted a woman clad in jeans, a plain T-shirt, and a pink scarf carrying a backpack and wearing bright pink lipstick. I had done my research for the story I would be writing, and recognized her as the woman I’d be meeting and interviewing that day. Still, I doubted if it was really her, Berna Romulo-Puyat, undersecretary of the Department of Agriculture (DA). I finally mustered up the courage to approach her and introduce myself, we shook hands, and she swiftly briefed me of what to expect on our trip. Romulo-Puyat has been the DA’s undersecretary for 11 years, specifically handling administration, marketing, and regional engagement under the current administration. Not many years ago, she started to travel around the Philippines in order to check farms and the farmers� needs. For this trip, I was lucky to join her visit to Banaue Rice Terraces during the harvest season for heirloom rice. We were there to witness the Igorots’ harvest ritual, traverse the eighth Wonder of the
World, and observe and participate in the harvest. Wearing only rubber slippers, we walked down the side of the mountain and on the narrow walkways of the terraces to reach the harvest plot. Without hesitation, Romulo-Puyat stepped into the muddy rice paddy and asked the female farmers how to do the harvest properly. Following suit, I cut and gathered mature panicles beside her and the other women, and passed them down the line once I had more than enough to hold. We did this for about an hour under immense heat, and all throughout, Romulo-Puyat would ask the farmers questions and even joke with them. She has made it a point to learn from farmers firsthand and to give back, bringing chefs and media people with her on her trips to raise awareness about the farmers’ plight and gain respect for the food they produce and that we consume. “I’ve been fortunate to have traveled all over the country with [chef ] Gaita Forés. She has the talent of seeing the potential of an indigenous ingredient and using it in her dishes in her restaurants,” she says.
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What was the turning point that made you decide to pursue a journey with food? My life has always been about food. My whole family loves to eat. My late husband courted me by taking me to each and every restaurant written in Doreen Fernandez’s book (Lasa: A Guide to 100 Restaurants). We would take our kids to different countries every year and our itinerary was always centered on where we would eat. We believed that part of understanding the culture of a country is through the food that they eat. You don’t have to eat in an expensive restaurant to have a fantastic meal. I can be happy with a meal that costs less than P100.
What are the biggest challenges you encounter when promoting local produce among Filipinos and maybe even our own farmers? The lack of supply. A lot of our chefs have been looking for local ingredients but we just don’t have enough of them. A lot of chefs want to buy adlai, but not many farmers plant it. Most of the supply comes from our research centers. A few years back, most restaurants imported their ingredients because that’s what their customers looked for. Now you have chefs like Margarita Forés, Jordy Navarra, and JP Anglo who are proud to say that they source their produce locally.
What are the most common misconceptions about Can you walk me through Madrid Fusion�s journey Filipino food? to the Philippines? That we don’t have any original The idea of participating in Madrid dish. That everything is just Fusion came from Margarita Forés. borrowed. When I visited Madrid, I has been attending it for several “Knowing how hard She tried their ensaymada, and it was so years now, and she had asked me a different from the one we are used few times if we could at least have it is to grow food to here. Ours has a lot of butter and a Philippine booth in Madrid. also made me is full of flavor. I remember how, But it was former Department of during the first Madrid Fusion Tourism Secretary Mon Jimenez value everything [in Manila], Spanish chef Paco who thought out of the box and Torreblanca was so amazed with said that instead of just having a that I eat.” our ensaymada that he kept going booth in Madrid, why not bring back to the booth that was serving Madrid Fusion to Manila? it. The same goes for lechon. I Please describe the atmosphere personally think our lechon is better during the first Madrid Fusion Manila. than the ones I have tasted abroad. Contrary to what people think that we just copy Amazing! Both foreign and local chefs, the press, and everything, we do have dishes that were not borrowed: food lovers were raving about Filipino food. Our local crispy pata, sisig, kare-kare, dinuguan, and laing. To chefs who were asked to present in the congress were quote Doreen Fernandez, “When Filipinos borrow, as good as their foreign counterparts. It was a proud and then they cook it, there’s a whole different, moment for our country. All the local chefs that participated during our profound process that happens. That when people cook something that they have embraced from somewhere, regional lunches did it pro bono. Enderun [College] it becomes very different. It becomes ours.” It took students were our waiters, dishwashers, etc. and me a long time to understand that. It’s so profound. nobody complained. Everyone did it for the country. Everyone was helping each other. You would see top How did your perspective on food change after chefs like Bruce Ricketts helping out other chefs; there becoming the undersecretary for agriculture? was no star. Our hashtag was #parasabayan. It was I used to think that we only had good food in a everyone’s way of helping the country through food. few provinces, like Pampanga and Negros. But after traveling all over the country, I’ve discovered so many How has Madrid Fusion Manila changed the dishes that I’ve never tasted before. Take for example Filipinos’ and the foreigners’ mindset about Isabela: I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the local food? food there is fantastic. Their pansit cabagan is to die I am so happy that the new tourism secretary decided for. The lamb and organic pig are also delicious. They to push through with the third one. When we did the even have lobsters! regional lunches back 2015, our main objective was Knowing how hard it is to grow food also made me to show foreign chefs and the foreign press that we value everything that I eat. Nothing must go to waste. have good Filipino food. We were so thrilled when the Column dress, Sune, www.shopsune.com.
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COV ER STORY Beige and white houndstooth jacket, Rajo Man, Shangri-La Plaza Mall. Embroidered blue skirt, Gabbie Sarenas, gabbiesarenas.com.
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likes of Elena Arzak of Arzak and Andoni Aguriz of Mugaritz went crazy over our calamansi, adlai, and pili nuts. An added bonus was that some of our local chefs discovered we have good quality local ingredients. Those who went to the regional lunches were surprised that the ingredients used in the different dishes that were served were local. Surely, foreign chefs like Elena Arzak and Joan Roca tried and brought home Filipino produce during the past two Madrid Fusions in the country. Did they continue to use Filipino produce in their own Michelin-starred restaurants? It�s not that easy to export Filipino produce or products. First, we don’t have the supply. Second, there are certain protocols that have to be followed for our produce to enter a foreign country. We at the
SHOT ON LOCATION LA CASITA MERCEDES
STYLING MELVIN MOJICA MAKEUP JEROME CHANG HAIRSTYLING RICK DIOKNO OF KIEHL�S STYLIST SERIES TEAM
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DA are working on increasing supply and making sure that they can enter other countries who want to buy from us. One of the DA�s biggest roles in Madrid Fusion is hosting the series of lunches for the delegates. What can we look forward to this April? For the first year, our theme was Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. Each of the chefs prepared dishes where the ingredients were sourced. For the second year, our themes were panlasa (different tastes of Filipino food), almusal (since Filipinos love breakfast), and streetfood. This year, we will focus on ingredients. The first day will be about rice, to be curated by Angelo Comsti. The second day will be “[from] nose to tail,” to be curated by Nina Daza Puyat, Sasha Dy-Prieto, Lim Uy, and Idge Mendiola. The third day will be about
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corn, to be curated by Alicia Sy. The overall curator would be JJ Yulo. Are you doing something new apart from the regular lineup of events? The theme of this year’s Madrid Fusion is “Towards a sustainable gastronomic planet,” so we will be sourcing ingredients that are not only indigenous to the country but also produced in a sustainable manner. Over the years of being in a “relationship” with food, have you come up with a food philosophy that you live by every day? I follow the Slow Food philosophy, which is defined by three principles: good, clean, and fair. People should be able to enjoy food that is good for them and that does not harm the environment. Good food should be accessible to our consumers: not too expensive, but at the same time, the farmers are also paid well. Reading about Slow Food made me realize that what we are currently doing in the DA is in sync with what slow food is all about. Our work has made us co-producers of various agricultural products, including the Ark of Taste ones. Being ‘co-producers’ means being people who go beyond the passive role of consuming and taking an interest in those who produce our food, how they produce it, and the problems they face in doing so. In actively supporting food producers, we become part of the production process. Slow Food encourages everyone to be co-producers. Grow your own food. Eat real food. Visit a farm. Shake the hand that feeds you. Know the story behind the food that you eat. Meet your farmers and fisherfolk. Learn more about your local or regional food history and cultural dishes. If you don’t have the time, buy food that supports those who feed us.
“Being ‘co-producers’ means being people who go beyond the passive role of consuming and taking an interest in those who produce our food, how they produce it, and the problems they face in doing so.”
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NATIVE SEAMS Easy garments going back to local roots
PHOTOGRAPHY JO ANN BITAGCOL STYLING MELVIN MOJICA
Off-shoulder romper and earrings, both Piopio, piopio.ph. Slides, Furnelas, Maco Custodio, maco-custodio.com.
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Shirt dress, Slaves of Liberty, slavesofliberty.com. Trousers, Sune, shopsune.com. Mules, Maco Custodio, maco-custodio.com. Earrings, Piopio, piopio.ph
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Shirt, Eairth, eairth.ph. Robe, Slaves of Liberty, slavesofliberty.com. Pants, Vivienne Ramsay, eairth.ph. Slides, Furnelas, Maco Custodio, maco-custodio.com. Earrings, Piopio, piopio.ph.
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Leather bag, P4,195, Pedro, TriNoma Mall. Button-down shirt, Slaves of Liberty, slavesofliberty.com. Earrings, Piopio, piopio.ph. living 21
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MAKEUP BAMBI DELA CRUZ HAIRSTYLING DARWIN SABLAYAN MODEL PAULINE PRIETO
Dress and earrings, both Piopio, piopio.ph. 22 living Trousers and blazer, both Sune, shopsune.com.
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EATS Tori Tori makes use of flags with Japanese characters as decorations. In this photo: Enoki mushroom wrapped in bacon against one of the Japanese flags.
STICKS AND SMOKE
The simple delights at Tori Tori Kushiyaki TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
Tori Tori Kushiyaki is a tongue twister of a name, which restaurant proprietor Derrick Co says was chosen for luck’s sake: “Tori Tori” has eight letters, and the O’s make an “8.” But Co promises that nothing else about the dining spot is as complicated. “I like simple cooking and bringing out the natural flavors of the meat.” In the 20 sqm space along Wilson St., “space is my enemy,” Co says. The place can seat 30, with additional seats outside. With such a small area and given his love for meat, Co stuck to serving yakitori and sushi rolls, cooked in Tori Tori’s two kitchen spaces: one for sushi and another for grilled meats. The hanging cabinets reveal a wide selection of liquor,
from beer to Japanese whiskey. However, it’s the bottles wrapped in bond paper with names written on them that catch attention. These are apparently unfinished bottles from previous customers, which the restaurant saves so people can finish them when they return. Though deemed as one of the most basic cooking techniques there is, grilling is not as simple as it seems. “You have to know every meat,” explains Co. “You have to know which cuts shrink and which get tough when grilled.” The tako tsukune or grilled octopus stuffed with chicken meatball, for example, can be rubbery when cooked improperly. The meats served here vary from wagyu beef to simple
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EATS
skewered pork. For starters, the grilled eggplant reveals the savory taste of Tori Tori’s yakitori baste, though the bacon enoki or bacon-wrapped mushroom is the easy favorite. The shishamo or grilled willow fish is a standout, with the small fish resembling tuyo or dried fish, albeit less salty. A bite reveals fish eggs hidden within, which adds a bold flavor. The combination of tastes would remind you of dinner cooked in an open fire by the beach. For the rolls, start with the special California maki. It’s still the familiar roll but topped with more mango and
cucumber, leaving the taste buds refreshed. The angus inari is angus beef stuffed in sweet tofu, the flavors of both components balancing each other. Surprisingly, after trying out all of their offerings, the palate never gets overwhelmed; the only trace Tori Tori leaves is a smoky scent clinging to your shirt. Two diners arrive at Tori Tori, and one of them asks for the half-filled bottle of whiskey he had left. They share it over a platter of special California maki and yakitori. For Co, this is how he wanted the place to be: simple, yet teeming with good conversations.
“You have to know every meat. You have to know which cuts shrink and which get tough when grilled.”
Fish tofu, tako tsukune, and Taiwanese sausage; For those on the go, Tori Tori has a takeout window in front of the grill area.
Tori Tori Kushiyaki Snack Bar. 197 Wilson St., San Juan City. 370-7017. www.facebook.com/toritoriph.
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RECIPE
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RECIPE
EAT CLEAN
Gado-gado is a super food from the streets of Indonesia TEXT AND STYLING CHARLIE CARBUNGCO PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
GADO-GADO INGREDIENTS
2 hard-boiled eggs 1/4 purple cabbage 2 to 3 cherry tomatoes 3 baby potatoes 2 red radishes 1/4 bunch cilantro 1/4 bunch radish sprout 1/2 cucumber Peanut sauce 1 clove garlic 2 tbsp. palm sugar 1/2 cup peanut butter 1 chili 1/2 lemon 2 tsp. fish sauce 1 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tbsp. tamarind paste Salt and pepper to taste
PROCEDURE
1. Prepare your vegetables. Boil the potatoes. Slice tomatoes, cucumber, red radishes, and potatoes into thin, broad pieces. 2. Finely shred the purple cabbage. 3. For the sauce, put all the ingredients into the blender and blend until well-mixed. The result should be a tad sweet from the sugar and peanut butter, but with notes of chili. 4. Place peanut sauce on a plate. Then, assemble all other ingredients on top.
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T HE GET
HOT STUFF
A bottle of this local chili sauce will spice up your dinner TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
Photographer Erika Yamaguchi-Garcia has always wanted to create her own chili sauce. When her husband Chuck Garcia brought home a jar of chili from his trip to Senegal, they both tried and liked it. However, the jar bore no list of ingredients. “Then we had a trip with our friends to Bali, and the first Balinese meal we had came from a street cart, served with this incredible chili sauce. That really pushed Erika to make her own recipe,” Garcia says. And thus, No Bullshit Homemade Chili No. 1 was born. No Bullshit Homemade Chili No. 1 is pretty straightforward. The piquancy explodes as soon as it lands in
the mouth, but it doesn’t persist, allowing you to put more on whatever food you have in hand. The chili sauce is made with locally grown chili peppers, including siling pansigang, labuyo, and bird’s eye chili. “As much as possible, we want our products to be all locally produced to support our farmers,” the couple says. The final product goes into a bottle that they themselves had hand-painted. With so much thought put into the creation of each bottle of sauce, it’s just proper to call No Bullshit Homemade Chili No. 1 Yamaguchi-Garcia and Garcia�s hot lovechild.
No Bullshit Homemade Chili Sauce No. 1. www.instagram.com/nobullshitchili.
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