May 2017 Volume 11 | Issue 09
RETREATS
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CONT ENTS 16 COVER STORY Mich Dulce returns home
10 FEATURE Finding refuge for trees in the concrete jungle
Cover photo by Regine David 22 EATS A restaurant seeks the middle ground between two cuisines
MAY 2017 04 HEALTH Watching TV is good for you
26 RECIPE This hefty roast lamb is fit for a feast
06 FIXTURE The struggles of moving in
28 THE GET Sea-inspired accessories
EDITOR’S NOTE Heart and home “My team is here, my studio is here, and it got me thinking: do I want to be [traveling] all over the world, or do I want to create things?” designer and milliner Mich Dulce asks herself. “Manila is the place where I could have space and be most creative.” This issue’s theme, Retreats, is rendered two-fold in our cover story. After seven years in Europe, Dulce returns to Manila, which emerges in this narrative as an expected refuge, a setting for family, collaborative partners, and, most importantly, production. The retreat—or return—to Manila is representative of the creative ebb and flow of Dulce’s travels, and proves that Manila, despite its flaws, is home.
Home as a retreat is a truism most apt during times of stress or difficulty—the space where you feel most yourself, where you can kick back, drink some wine, and watch TV ’til late at night. On page 4, we recommend binge-watching some shows for their cathartic effects, and the process of empathizing with our favorite characters leaves us feeling blessed about our own lives. According to the author, “Leon Festinger’s social comparison theory says we watch TV shows to make us feel better about ourselves. The shortlived euphoria can be sparked even within just a 30-minute timeframe. Case in point: the entertaining absurdity in every Keeping Up with the Kardashians episode.”
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Northern Living is published by Hinge Inquirer Publications. 4F Media Resource Plaza, Mola corner Pasong Tirad Streets, Barangay La Paz, Makati City. Visit www.facebook.com/ nolisoli.ph now. Follow us on Instagram at @nolisoli.ph and Twitter at @nolisoliph. We’d love to hear from you. Email us at nolisoli@hip.ph. For advertising, email sales@hip.ph. This magazine was printed responsibly using recycled papers with biodegradable inks.
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ONLINE
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GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS OLIVER EMOCLING, EDLAINE FLOR, BEA LLAGAS ONLINE ASSOCIATE EDITOR PAULINE MIRANDA CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIMU MUALLAM ART DIRECTOR EDRIC DELA ROSA ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR DANICA CONDEZ STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER PATRICK SEGOVIA INTERNS ALEXANDRA MASCENON, JAMIE NAVARRO
Utilize the nutritious zucchini for a low-carb diet
CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS MARIE ADVINCULA, KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR, BEVERLY DALTON, PIERRA CALASANZ-LABRADOR PHOTOGRAPHERS GABBY CANTERO, REGINE DAVID, SAM LIM, JILSON TIU ILLUSTRATOR GRACE DE LUNA STYLIST MARIE ADVINCULA HAIR AND MAKEUP CATS DEL ROSARIO, APPLE FARAON COPY EDITOR SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO PROOFREADER ERIC NICOLE SALTA EDITORIAL CONSULTANT RIA FRANCISCO-PRIETO BOARD CHAIRPERSON ALEXANDRA PRIETO-ROMUALDEZ FINANCE ADVISOR AND TREASURER J. FERDINAND DE LUZURIAGA LEGAL ADVISOR ATTY. RUDYARD ARBOLADO HR STRATEGY HEAD RAYMUND SOBERANO VP AND CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER IMELDA C. ALCANTARA SVP AND GROUP SALES HEAD FELIPE R. OLARTE AVP FOR SALES MA. KATRINA MAE GARCIA-DALUSONG HEAD OF OPERATIONS AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT LURISA VILLANUEVA SALES SUPERVISOR JOY SANTOS-PILAR KEY ACCOUNTS SPECIALIST ANGELITA TAN-IBAÑEZ SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ALETHEIA ORDIALES, ABEGAIL GINAGA ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANDIE ZUÑIGA, CHARM BANZUELO, LIZA JISON SALES SUPPORT ASSISTANTS RECHELLE ENDOZO, MANILYN ILUMIN
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MANAGING EDITOR ANGELA VELASCO ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR PAM BROOKE CASIN EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS KRYZETTE PAPAGAYO, CHRISTELLE TOLISORA SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES SARAH CABALATUNGAN, SHANNA MALING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE INA MATEO GRAPHIC ARTISTS RACHELL FLORES, KATRICE MONTES, NICO ORTIGOZA, KRISTINE PAZ, JAYCELINE SORIANO PRODUCTION MANAGER JAN CARIQUITAN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MARICEL GAVINO FINAL ART SUPERVISOR DENNIS CRUZ FA ARTIST ARGYL LEONES MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER JELLIC TAPIA TRADE MARKETING SUPERVISOR BIANCA DALUMPINES BRAND MARKETING SUPERVISOR MA. INA RODRIGUEZ BRAND MARKETING ASSISTANT NICOLE USON EVENTS ASSISTANT MERJORIE MAY YOUNG SENIOR GRAPHIC ARTIST ROI DE CASTRO
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COUCH THERAPY
The surprising benefits of bingeing on television TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR
Conventional TV watching has seen immense changes in recent years, largely due to internet’s mobility. But one thing is for sure: TV shows easily remain as most people’s fixation. I once encountered someone who claimed he “didn’t watch TV,” which I found weird. Even as an adult, I haven’t quite relinquished my own TV obsession. In fact, I rely on it for when reality becomes too stifling. The variety of local and international shows available also makes it even harder to switch off. And it’s not a completely bad thing. Recent studies show that you can reap health benefits from watching TV. Dubbed by psychologists as a parasocial relationship, this one-sided interaction is often projected towards celebrities or fictional characters, with the receiving party completely oblivious of the giver’s existence. This can stem from a variety of reasons, with loneliness as the most common one. Leon Festinger’s social comparison theory says we watch TV shows to make us feel better about ourselves. The short-lived euphoria can be sparked even within just a 30-minute timeframe. Case in point: the entertaining absurdity in every Keeping Up with the Kardashians episode. Doesn’t being a mere spectator in an unfolding drama make you feel good? You get to be around the fire without being scorched. TV shows also create a kind of intimacy where we identify with a character and develop some sort of
ILLUSTRATION GRACE DE LUNA
one-sided bond with them. This significantly alleviates loneliness and nurtures a sense of belongingness. Jennifer Barnes, assistant professor of psychology at the University of Oklahoma, says this simulated intimacy likewise bears real-world benefits, such as having improved self-esteem. Festinger’s theory works both ways, however, and there are times when watching television can leave us feeling worse, such as when a favorite character gets killed or, ultimately, when the show itself ends. In some instances, this sense of forlorn can be beneficial. This is what philosophers have referred to as the paradox of tragedy, wherein unfortunate events tend to comfort us. It’s still unclear why we are able to find pleasure even in times of pain, but using TV shows as catharsis for negative emotions can be liberating. “Although we’re feeling sadness, the meta-emotion we’re feeling might be something like gratitude that we can feel this wide range of emotional experiences,” Barnes says in an interview with Time. “We might actually feel glad that we can be empathetic and feel things like this on behalf of someone else, even if they’re not real.” But while compassion and empathy are good traits to develop, just a word of caution: do not be overly attached to works of fiction, especially when you’re suffering from an underlying case of depression. Occasional binge-watching is good, but just like everything else in this world, do it in moderation.
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FORWARDING ADDRESS A move to a different zip code may affect the way you think and act TEXT EDLAINE FLOR ILLUSTRATION GRACE DE LUNA
There’s something exciting yet nerve-wracking about moving into a new home. It is indeed difficult, particularly for individuals who undergo puberty. Aside from dealing with the move, they are also dealing with physical and hormonal changes daily. In a study by psychology professor Shigehiro Oishi from the University of Virginia, children who experience frequent residential mobility are more likely to have behavioral issues. With frequent moving, children aren’t given the chance to build strong relationships with their peers. Whenever they relocate, they tend to experience peer rejection
that could lead to withdrawal, depression, and other mental health issues. An individual’s inherent personality also plays an important factor in residential relocation. The move may not take much toll on extroverts since it’s easier for them to form social networks in new places. However, it’s more difficult for introverts to adjust. “An introvert replenishes energy by spending time alone or in emotionally quiet settings,” Dr. Melissa Deuter of the University of Texas Health Science Center San Antonio wrote in Psychology Today. Aside from introverts, moody individuals may also have a tough time acclimatizing to their new neighborhood. Weather and climate are external factors that also affect one’s personality. In the study “The Effects of Weather on Daily Mood: A Multilevel Approach,” featured in the journal Emotion, the weather has been discovered to be influential on our moods. On pleasant, sunny days, people tend to feel amiable. However, moving to a place with a different climate may affect individuals adversely. For example, according to professor Craig Anderson of the University of MissouriColumbia, higher temperature levels primarily result in discomfort, which negatively affects our thinking and actions. On another note, the cultural makeup of a new location can influence the newcomer to be just like their new neighbors. Psychologist William Chopik of Michigan State University found that there are particular personality traits inherent to a specific location. Although the study is done in the U.S., this is similar to how we associate certain characteristics with various regions in the country: Ilocanos are frugal while Ilonggos are soft-spoken, etc. Moving is inevitable for most people as they grow up; whether you can wing it or feel like losing your sanity under the stress is often a matter of perspective. As psychologist Elizabeth Stirling told The New York Times, “No matter how much you move, you still take yourself with you.”
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BEAUT Y
SPRITZ AWAY
Adding face mist to your beauty routine makes a difference TEXT BEVERLY DALTON
ILLUSTRATION ALEXANDRA MASCENON
The facial mist hype started in the late ’80s, with mineral water sourced from a spa town on the shores of Lake Geneva called Évian-les-Bains. Yes, that’s where the iconic Evian facial spray came from. Today, a good number of people pick up a bottle of face mist and include it in their makeup routine. Probably a habit picked up from makeup artists, facial mists are commonly used to set makeup. It is what keeps the skin still looking like skin instead of a layer of powder. Still underrated as a beauty product, a lot of people don’t know that facial mists are more than just spraying water on your face or for setting makeup on the skin after application. In some countries like Korea, face mists are kind of a big deal—as big a deal as that eye cream on your bathroom counter claiming to defy time. The question is, how can a mist of water be so groundbreaking? It all boils down to formulation. While most facial spray brands claim to hydrate the skin, there are also ones that tone and nourish the dermis throughout the day. Others can even cool the skin down. According
to research, the production of sebum—the culprit behind acne—increases when skin temperature rises. So whenever the face feels hot, it’s more prone to oiliness and breakouts. The mist can help cool the skin and, in the long run, keep it smooth and glowing. It’s the best go-to hydrator at any time of the day, and well-hydrated skin can fight the signs of aging. A facial mist can also give life to makeup. Instead of adding more layers or retouching later in the day, a spritz or two will give life to your look, reviving its dewy sheen. Currently, face mists are no longer made of just mineral water. Some are formulated with tea tree oil, which tightens pores and kills bacteria, or rosewater, which calms inflammation. So if you’re outside in the sweltering summer heat or inside a freezing office, a facial mist can come in handy at any time. For now, there may be no such thing as an hourly beauty regimen but using a mist could be a start. Besides, a little hydration never hurts.
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SPECIAL FEAT URE
SUMMER STORIES Heritage and fashion tie loose ends at CommonThread TEXT KRYZETTE PAPAGAYO PHOTOGRAPHY CHOLA TOLENTINO ILLUSTRATIONS JAYCELINE SORIANO
There are different ways to tell a story. Up front, it could be a declarative that unfolds different colors and narratives. Sometimes the story dissects and mirrors expressions and feelings. Fashion tracks a similar framework as each piece tells its own story. CommonThread is a lifestyle store that ascends from this aim. Telling style stories through their well-chosen product selections, it is a hub for clothing, footwear, and lifestyle pieces. “What we offer in CommonThread are primarily fun, casual brands that have an interesting story or distinct point of view,” says Anne Gonzalez, managing director of Terry SA. The store has become a menagerie of heritage brands since its inception in 2013, from their f lagship Havaianas, to international
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and local brands Gioseppo, Veja, Renegade Folk, and Gouache. The selections are carefully thought, bespoke, and takes off from each brand’s story. All pieces are selected to follow the frills and themes of every season. “Our idea is to mix up the offerings to keep things fresh in the store. But the brands always have to be fun and interesting,” says Gonzalez. Whether you’re jetsetting around the globe or exploring local sights, take with you pieces that weave form and function. Summer stories are often colored with discovery and exploration — start it right at CommonThread. CommonThread is located at Level 2, Greenbelt 5 and R2, Power Plant Mall Rockwell.
STYLE THREAD Going places? Add these to your carry-on luggage
Flip-f lops, Havaianas
Shirts, Thread 365
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FEAT URE
TAKE ROOT The necessity of a renewed appreciation for our native trees TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY JILSON TIU
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The trees at UP Washington Sycip Garden of Native Trees are tagged for educational purposes.
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There is a faint floral scent in the air once summer begins. When the wind blows, tiny yellow blossoms fall, carpeting the gutter. “It’s snowing,” children say, contrary to the season. The flowers, on their own, seem insignificant; in fact, they resemble crushed corn kernels. But if you look up, the dense yellow clusters against the tree’s verdant foliage is a sight to behold. This is how the indigenous narra tree (Pterocarpus indicus) declares the entrance of summer. Despite the narra’s aesthetic, my mother refused to grow one in our backyard. It’s neither because of its seed’s long germination process nor its extensive root system, but because of the popular belief that engkantos, particularly the giant kapre, tend to inhabit the tree. However, narra is revered: its proud stature makes it fit to be our national tree, and its termite-resistant wood is prized in the furniture industry. So while people marvel over Japan’s cherry blossoms, why is there no fuss about the flowering of our native trees? Narra is one of the 3,600 species native to the Philippines––perhaps the lone one that most Filipinos can name, thanks to grade school social studies. Artist and native flora enthusiast Ronald Achacoso shares that the combined land area of U.S.
and Canada, which would be 65 times larger than the Philippines, only has 700 species. This makes our country one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. However, the diversity of native flora is unknown to city dwellers. According to Achacoso, more than 90 percent of the trees we encounter in our urban centers are foreign. A quick drive down our city streets reveals the abundance of ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala), a tree native to Southern Mexico that’s known to be invasive and susceptible to diseases and infestation. Acacia and mahogany trees are often thought of as Philippine natives, but they’re not: acacia is mainly found in Australia, while the invasive mahogany is commonly seen in Brazil and the Caribbean. As they became more rare in urbanized cities, our knowledge of native trees has been reduced to the streets named after them. Inside the University of the Philippines-Diliman campus, a short walk from UP Cine Adarna leads you to the Washington Sycip Garden of Native Trees (WSGNT). Located across UP Bahay ng Alumni and right behind the carillon, the 4,700-sqm. garden used to be a parking area until 2012. Now, the garden is home to more than 100 indigenous and
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Alibangbang (Bauhinia malabarica) is a deciduous tree. During World War 2, soldiers who walked the Death March rested under alibangbang trees along the road (left).The lagunding dagat (Vitex trifolia) is an indigenous evergreen treelet that grows along seashores. Similar to lagundi, it provides cure to various ailments (below).
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endemic trees, including critically endangered trees like malapangit (Tectona philippensis) and those we know only as street names: guijo (Shorea guiso), yakal (Shorea astylosa), and kamagong (Diospyros blancoi). A quick glance at the garden’s landscape blueprint reveals that the trees are grouped by family to better describe their attributes. “For instance, the leguminous trees belonging to Fabaceae were grouped in the middle of the garden. These trees belong to the bean family and are nitrogen fixers and are good candidates for reforestation,” Achacoso says. Nitrogen is a vital nutrient for chlorophyll production and leaf growth. With overpopulation and the rising numbers of skyscrapers in the city, growing a native tree within the proximity of a city home is now a luxury. And if you have this luxury, Achacoso suggests evergreens–– trees that don’t shed leaves, unlike deciduous ones–– as perfect candidates since they don’t grow too big. Although it depends on the soil and growing environment, he gives three species for backyard trees: kamuning (Murraya paniculata), katmon (Dillenia philippinensis), and bantolinao (Diospyros ferrea). Kamuning is a low-growing tree grown for its fragrance. Katmon, on the other hand, is a vulnerable endemic tree that bears edible fruit. Finally, bantolinao is a vulnerable indigenous tree that has attractive foliage. It is popular among bonsai enthusiasts as it makes for a good specimen. “It would take several lifetimes to see their maximum size,” Achacoso says of evergreens grown from seedlings. Native trees provide home to native organisms, from fungi to birds. Dr. James LaFrankie mentions in the guide book for WSGNT that a mahogany forest is a “dead zone,” as the foreign tree does not have any relationship with local fauna. Whenever we plant a native tree, it doesn’t just provide us shade and a solution to flooding; we also make it more possible for other creatures to live among us, as native trees support the natural order of the local ecosystem. Achacoso has been propagating salimbobog or balai-lamok (Crateva religiosa) for more than a decade already. “At one point, it was my favorite tree, but I’ve moved on to other species. I used to ask [taxonomist] Leonard Co [what his favorite tree was], and it always frustrated me when he would answer, ‘Lahat naman sila maganda.’ Now, I’m beginning to see it that way, too,” Achacoso says. “I want us to level up in terms of our appreciation of Philippine native flora. I get frustrated when a fellow enthusiast would post that [the sight of ] our trees [is] more beautiful than the cherry blossoms. Maybe so; at least, some could rival them. From a visual level, a cherry tree in full bloom or a Madagascar fire tree is truly stunning, and you would have to be very glib to convince anyone otherwise. I’m after the
“If we could see the whole assemblage and how one native species is intricately connected to another, then we get to see the beauty beyond the visual or aesthetic level.”
Siar (Peltophorum pterocarpum) can be used as a roadside tree. The tree blooms twice a year and its rich nectar attracts bees.
bigger scheme of things. You cannot fully appreciate a plant or an organism by isolating it and looking at it apart from its natural environment. If we could see the whole assemblage and how one native species is intricately connected to another, then we get to see the beauty beyond the visual or aesthetic level. Then we truly see how beautiful something is in its proper context.” In their permanence, trees don’t forget. They may shed their leaves or lose a branch, but they hold a collective memory through generations. Like in the final scene of Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love, trees immortalize our secrets and memories in their silence without any trace, until their ultimate demise. There is nothing wrong with patronizing spectacular foreign trees, but as Leonard Co said, “Love all, but plant only native trees.”
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Fashion designer and feminist Mich Dulce talks about moving back home and forming her Grrrl Gang TEXT PIERRA CALASANZ-LABRADOR PHOTOGRAPHY REGINE DAVID
“Yes, I’m back!” chirps Mich Dulce, confirming that she’s officially staying put in Manila after years of traveling back and forth from London and, most recently, from Paris, where the peripatetic milliner and designer was based for the last three years. Working beside her design heroes and having her namesake brand distributed globally and worn by celebrity stylesetters like Anna Dello Russo, Leighton Meester, and Lady Gaga, Dulce seemed to be living the dream. “But there came a point where I was like, ‘Ayoko na.’ Growing up, I always wanted to go places, do things, meet people, hang out with everyone I wanted to… but at 35, I reached a point where I thought, ‘Okay, I’ve done all that.’ I loved my life abroad, but creatively, I really didn’t have the space to do what I wanted.” It was a realization that crept up on her as she was preparing for her deceptively demure and deliciously feminist art exhibit at Finale Art File a few years back. “My team is here, my studio is here, and that got me thinking: do I want to be [traveling] all over the world, or do I want to create things? And Manila is the place where I could have the space and be most creative.” Back to Classics While she continues to grow her brand internationally, coming home allows her to focus on projects close to her heart. “I was working on hats for the last five years that I missed designing clothes. And I love clothes!” But don’t expect her signature drape-y designs that are belatedly all the rage. “I was ahead of my time. I would probably make so much money if I made them now.”
Instead, she’s turned to vintage shapes. “I’ve become more classic—a word I never thought I’d say!” Yet her foray into period corsetry and her own evolving personal style foretold this return. “As I grow older, I’ve learned to dress for my figure,” Dulce says. “I’ve always loved the vintage look, and now that’s the direction my designs are headed.” Alongside bridalwear and bespoke pieces, she will also be doing capsule collections every season, starting in September. Clients can visit her atelier and order from a lookbook. “Each piece will be made-to-measure, very old-school.” A style icon who has always marched to the beat of her own drum, Dulce deplores fast fashion and champions sustainability. “Two things I’m passionate about are feminism and climate change. I feel there’s a re-education in fashion, that luxury doesn’t mean buying a lot; that it means buying quality. So I try to create things that are well-made and will last long.” She deliberately uses sustainable and ethical Filipino raw materials and combines them with traditional European millinery techniques to create exquisite pieces that showcase Filipino heritage and craftsmanship. “I’d like people to wear my pieces until they’re sira-sira na.” Grrrl Power Moving back home also meant she could now flesh out a dream project: to create a safe, non-judgmental space for women to talk about their issues, a supportive society known as Grrrl Gang. “Everyone seems to be shocked about Grrrl Gang, saying, ‘Huh, hindi ka naman feminist dati,’
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Table and vase, both Hay, Design Story, Uptown BGC.
but I’ve always been one,” she explains. Inspired by empowering riot grrrl bands, she formed her own band Death by Tampon—her original girl gang—to speak out against the patriarchy, misogyny, and gender inequality. Her own tough-as-nails mom serves as her feminist muse. “My dad died when I was five, and she raised me on her own. She’s a powerhouse who made things happen by herself.” If Dulce thought she was escaping the smallmindedness of “Filipino guys making pakialam the color of our kili-kili or our dark knees,” in Paris, she experienced harassment coupled with racism on a daily basis. “There was a guy who took out his dick right in front of me in the metro and I couldn’t scream for fear of being judged,” she recalls. “Another time, I was called a slut by girls—yes, girls!—for wearing a lowcut top. I’m sure they wouldn’t have said a thing if I
Hat, Mich Dulce, Michdulce.com. Vintage dress, Mich’s own. Heels, Chanel, Mich’s own. Rug and vase, both Hay, Design Story, Uptown Mall BGC.
were white.” She eventually found her tribe at various meets and empowering women’s festivals around the world. “But while marching against Donald Trump in New York, I thought to myself, why I am doing this here, when we have our own misogynistic leader back home?” With so many activist friends doing amazing things, she wondered, “Should I join my voice with theirs? Or should I be my own force, in my own circle?” Realizing that her voice was bigger in Manila, Dulce resolved to channel her efforts into affecting change in her own country. “In our culture, there are so many feminist issues that are uniquely our own. We’re so far behind—we [have limited access to] birth control. My sewers [are against the use of ] condoms because it goes against the Catholic church,” she says in frustration. “When you think of activism in the Philippines, there’s this
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Mich Dulce’s first foray in feminist literature was The Riot Grrrl Collection.
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MAKEUP APPLE FARAON HAIR CATS DEL ROSARIO SHOT ON LOCATION DESIGN STORY
“I feel there’s a re-education in fashion, that luxury doesn’t mean buying a lot; that it means buying quality.”
Hat, Mich Dulce, Michdulce.com. Top, Vivienne Westwood, Mich’s own. Skirt, Louis Vuitton, Mich’s own. Lounge chair, Hay, Design Story, Uptown Mall BGC.
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“Feminism is really about creating change within yourself, and creating social change in your own place and in your own manner, whichever way you can.”
Aside from hats and corsets, Dulce will design capsule collections starting this September.
Dress, Vivienne Westwood, Mich’s own. Chair, Stellar Works, Design Story, Uptown Mall BGC.
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conservative, elitist mindset. ‘Why do we need to take things to the streets?’ But these things affect you, regardless of your social class. People think that we don’t need feminism, but almost everyone has an experience [with sexism], and there are so many stories of girls who are afraid to speak out.” The catalyst for forming Grrrl Gang was when Dulce decided to freeze her eggs and share her experience on Facebook. “The guy I was dating at the time got upset when I posted my decision on social media. He said I shouldn’t have posted that publicly, but I was like, this is my decision, my fertility, and my body. I feel strongly about being able to post what I want, especially if it can lead to a discussion that can help others. No one really talks about freezing their eggs here.” Her indignation, compounded by her insecurities, loneliness, and extreme mood swings due to the hormone treatment for the procedure, made her long for good old girl bonding. “I needed to talk to women who could understand what I was going through. And I realized that in the Philippines, there’s really no space to talk about women’s issues, unless the people are already your friends. In our culture, there’s a lot of repression, a lot of shaming.” When she knew she was coming home, she plotted with feminist friends—Marla Darwin, Claire Villacorta, and Earnest Zabala—to hatch Grrrl Gang. “We also had a lot of help from volunteer groups. So Grrrl Gang is not just me. It’s [we], it’s everyone who is a part of it.” At their first Grrrl Gang meet, issues ranged from daily misogyny and gender bias to gynecologists slutshaming patients. “Among the attendees, there were girls who were sexually harassed and had no space to talk about it.” Dulce abruptly pauses, saying, “Wait, naiiyak ako.” From issues of domestic violence to rape, Grrrl Gang aims to create a space where women are not victims but are just people relating to each other, bonding in the flesh. And because they’re not just “all talk,” the group actively seeks solutions to women’s concerns. For example, they hope to help each other navigate a legal system that clearly isn’t pro-women. Another project is to bring in a group of psychologists for those in need of counseling. It’s an ambitious undertaking, but Dulce is enthusiastic about Grrrl Gang’s goal of empowering one girl at a time, herself included. “Feminism is really about creating change within yourself, and creating social change in your own place and in your own manner, whichever way you can.” Hats, all Mich Dulce, Michdulce.com.
Grrrl Gang Manila. Facebook.com/grrrlgangmanila. Instagram.com/grrrlgangmanila.
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Balestier uses furniture and wall fixtures made in Marikina.
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CITIZEN OF THE WORLD Balestier crosses boundaries and fuses two cuisines
TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY SAM LIM
Laksa tsukemen is Balestier’s take on the classic laksa, eaten like tsukemen.
Balestier Road is a Singaporean food destination. But before it became home to hundreds of hawkers and restaurants, it has always been a food hub. It used to be a market, then a food ration distribution center during World War II. Even before that, American Consul Joseph Balestier originally used the land as a sugarcane plantation in the 1830s. The idea of an American tilling Singaporean soil led restaurant proprietor Mikee Rodriguez to build a fusion restaurant named after the place, where he also had his culinary training. While it may seem difficult to find a middle ground between Western and Asian cuisines, Rodriguez easily discovered their similar traits: both cuisines (Italian and Asian, in particular) have rice, noodles, and lots of carbs. “A lot of [our] flavors are Asian, but the way they’re cooked is Western,” he says. His affinity for fusion cuisine is evident in the sliders: he uses mantou buns instead of regular buns. There are three baowich options at Balestier: pulled short rib, chili crab, and chicken; the pulled short rib, however, stands out. The steamed mantou cradles tender slices of saucy and savory braised beef short rib that had been cooked for four hours, and the result is akin to the ubiquitous siopao. Although the filling is visible, the sweetness from the cinnamon
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EATS and other herbs still surprises the palate. Each baowich is served with sweet potato chips on the side. Rodriguez also merges Singaporean and Japanese cuisines in his laksa tsukemen. The dish is like a deconstructed laksa: the egg noodles, topped with prawns, fish cake, and sous vide egg, are served separate from the laksa soup. You have to crack the egg to let its runny yolk mix with the noodles, then you dip the noodles into the soup. The egg makes the dish creamy yet every slurp of the laksa leaves a mild spicy flavor in the mouth. “At Italian restaurants, everyone orders pasta and pizza, but I always get the risotto,” Rodriguez says. Since he grew up eating Italian food for Sunday lunches and family celebrations, he also tries to shine a new light on his favorite dish by using bak kut teh instead of chicken stock. “It’s actually hangover food in Singapore,” he says of the pork rib broth. The result is a hearty meal that’s both peculiar and familiar. For Rodriguez, the food he presents at Balestier is his simple definition of comfort food. “[If I complicate things,] that defeats the purpose of enjoying the food.” The twists he had made to classic cuisines may sound complex at first, but at the end of the day, it’s still easy to revel in each dish.
Mikee Rodriguez and Mandy de Rivera crafted Balestier’s branding.
Chili crab, chicken, and pulled short rib baowich.
Balestier. 14 Nicanor Roxas St, Marikina, Metro Manila. 794-6199. Instagram.com/balestier.ph.
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Nono’s classic bolognese is the recipe of chef Baba IbazetaBenedicto’s nanny.
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CHILD’S PLAY
Relishing childhood memories at Nono’s TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY DANICA CONDEZ
On the ground floor of UP Town Center, a restaurant stands out: the hole-in-the-wall is adorned with a minimalist arrangement of cacti, its exterior walls are painted pastel green, and its huge windows are covered with blinds to conceal what’s inside. This is chef Baba Ibazeta-Benedicto’s new venture. A comfort food place named after IbazetaBenedicto’s father, Nono’s is the type of restaurant families frequent every Sunday. It’s also a lot like home with its soothing playlist, comprised of songs by Paul Anka and Nat King Cole. With its effervescent vibe, Ibazeta-Benedicto says that her goal at Nono’s is to “[serve] classic and simple food that [people] grew up with and have them leave happy.” The chef lived in the U.S. until she was seven years old. When her family returned to the Philippines, she then became the ward of yaya Warlita, whom she would often watch cook. Amazed by her nanny’s kitchen skills,
the young Ibazeta-Benedicto even asked her mom if she could go to maid school. “[One of the reasons why I pursued culinary arts] is because of her. If there’s one person who had influenced me, it’s yaya Warlita,” she reveals with a smile. To pay homage to her childhood nanny, IbazetaBenedicto included yaya Warlita’s classic Bolognese recipe. “This was always in our freezer growing up. Every celebration, we still have that,” she says. True to the chef’s goal, the pasta dish is pretty simple and straightforward: the tomato beef ragu is slow-cooked to elicit the flavors of both the beef and the tomatoes, and a generous serving of the sauce is layered on a spaghettini nest then topped with parmesan cheese. The rich pasta is the grown-up version of your childhood spaghetti but meatier and bolder in flavor, leaving tangy and savory aftertastes in the mouth. To spark further memories of childhood birthday parties, pair the classic Bolognese with Nono’s Homestyle
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“In our family, meals are always a celebration.”
Fried Chicken. The gravy that comes with it is more herby than spicy and savory, and you can mix it with honey to add a hint of sweetness. While both the pasta and the chicken are appealing to a grownup’s palate, the straightforward dining pleasure they give will probably make you wish that everything had remained as simple as spaghetti-and-chicken meals. One of the more upgraded dishes on Nono’s menu is their pork belly balsamic adobo. Cooked for four hours, the pork belly doesn’t need too much effort to be sliced. And unlike the classic adobo and its reliance on white vinegar, the restaurant’s use of balsamic vinegar lends an exotic, sweet taste to the Filipino favorite. Ibazeta-Benedicto sure knows how her diners like their adobo, as she’d already drizzled some of the sauce on the rice before serving. “In our family, meals are always a celebration,” she says. Nono’s is a reminder that a meal need not be extravagant to qualify as a feast. Counterclockwise: Eggs Benedict; Ibazeta-Benedicto had her design team try the menu before coming up with the homey interiors; pork belly balsamic adobo.
Nono’s. Level 1, Phase 1B, U.P. Town Center, Katipunan, Quezon City. Facebook.com/nonos.ph
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RECIPE
LAMB ME TENDER
Meat so soft it falls off the bone, with some healthy relish on the side TEXT AND STYLING MARIE ADVINCULA PHOTOGRAPHY GABBY CANTERO
SLOW-COOKED LAMB SHOULDER WITH ORANGE, YOGURT, AND HERBS INGREDIENTS
1.5 to 2 kg lamb shoulder Salt Ground black pepper For the dressing 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion, diced 4 cloves of garlic, chopped 2 medium tomatoes, diced 3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, halved 1 garlic head, halved 1 bay leaf 1 fresh thyme sprig Salt Ground black pepper 500 g white beans, soaked in water overnight 6 cups water 4 beef bouillon cubes For the sauce 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large white onion, coarsely chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 large celery rib, coarsely chopped Salt Ground black pepper 1 garlic head, halved crosswise 1 bay leaf 4 fresh thyme sprigs 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup water 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 2 cups fresh mixed herbs chopped (tarragon, dill, basil, mint, chives, and parsley) 1/4 cup and 1 tbsp. Greek yogurt
PROCEDURE
For the lamb 1. Pat dry the lamb shoulder and season with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for about an hour. 2. Pre-heat oven to 350°F (180°C). 3. In a medium-sized roasting pan over medium high heat, warm olive oil. Place the lamb fatty-side down and sear for about 5 minutes until the fat turns a deep brown. Flip the lamb to the other side and sear; continue on all sides until wellbrowned. Once all sides have been seared, transfer the lamb to a plate and set aside. 4. In the same pan, add onions, carrots, and celery. Add 2 to 3 tbsp. of olive oil, if necessary. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes until caramelized, stirring frequently and scraping off the brown bits from the pan. 5. Add garlic, bay leaf, and thyme. Turn heat to low and continue cooking for another 3 minutes. 6. Add wine, water, chicken bouillon cube, and 1 cup of the orange juice. 7. Place back the lamb in the middle of the pan. Cover with foil and cook in the oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until the meat is fork-tender. 8. Transfer the lamb carefully to the cutting board and let rest. For the beans 1. In a pan, sauté onion, garlic, and tomatoes in olive oil until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 2. In a pot over medium heat, warm
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olive oil. Add onion, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until fragrant. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Drain the beans and add them to the pot. Add water and beef bouillon cubes and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a steady simmer. Let beans cook until they swell and turn tender, stirring occasionally for about 1 hour. Add more water throughout the cooking process to maintain a stew-like consistency. 4. Add in sautéed tomatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. For the sauce 1. Strain the liquid from the pan through a fine mesh strainer into a sauce pan. Skim off any excess fat. 2. Add the remaining orange juice to the pan and cook over medium heat. Reduce liquid for 10 minutes until it’s about half of the original amount. Sauce should be thick enough to cover the back of a spoon at this point. 3. Remove the sauce from heat. While still hot, stir in the mixed herbs. Allow sauce to cool slightly then pour in yogurt as you whisk the sauce vigorously. Season with salt and pepper. Assembly
Ladle the beans onto a serving platter and place lamb on top of the beans. Pour herb sauce over the lamb. Serve hot.
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T HE GET
CROSS CURRENTS
Diversify your wardrobe with these underwater recreations TEXT JAMIE NAVARRO PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
The Philippine seas are home to various creatures: 2,000 fish species, 5,000 species of clams, mollusks, and crustaceans, 22 species of whales and dolphins, more than 900 species of seaweed, and more than 400 species of corals. Although we haven’t seen even half of what else lies under the ocean, designer Ken Samudio already culls inspiration from the diversity of life it supports. His background in biology and marine biodiversity led him to mimic the vast wonders hidden underwater in his everyday accessories. “I find the underwater equally, if not more fascinating than what’s found above the water. There is so much life, so much color—[these creatures are]
oblivious of one another yet exist in a symbiotic, harmonious relationship that makes up one of the most ecologically diverse ecosystems in the world,” he says. From his recent coral-inspired collection, Samudio continues to design accessories with the concept and materials centered on the ocean. This time, he created earrings in forms of a seahorse, a starfish, and other sea creatures. Featuring responsibly sourced and natural mother-ofpearls inlaid in brass, the colorful earrings are all handmade. Wear them either in the city or by the beach and feel like you’re part of the mysterious (water) world.
Ken Samudio. Ken-samudio.com. 0917-4946140.
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