Inquirer RED: 2016 May

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JP Anglo

Feast on This

EDITOR'S NOTE

For me, food and travel go hand in hand. Inquirer Red knows the importance of these two elements in creating a well-rounded experience. We try to feature these and more every month.

I just came from Krabi, Thailand two weeks ago for a girls’ bonding trip.

My friend chose this destination not for shopping but to really just enjoy (or not) each others’ company. The beaches were nice but in all honesty, I think we, too, have nice, if not better, beaches. The food, however, was so good and inexpensive that I went home heavier. Four days after I got back, I left (with my family this time) for Amanpulo. The beach and all the activities kept everyone busy and entertained. The food was exceptional, but, of course, much pricier than Krabi.

Truth is no matter where you go and at what budget, you only have to be open to the experience and you will discover so many things about yourself and the company you have. Having good food is already half the battle.

This month, we feature chef JP Anglo who runs Sarsa and Kafé Batwan, which offer Filipino and Negrense cuisine. Also, we invited Karen Santos of Kassa to prepare table settings that hopefully will inspire you to make every day a life well-lived. @riarecommends

Explore and experience!

CONTENTS

INSPIRED 11 Visual enticements that come before the feast

ADMIRED 8 Photography Patrick Diokno

THINKPIECE 20

Styling Ria Prieto

A critical view on local chefs’ rise to fame

Creative direction Nimu Muallam Grooming Cats del Rosario

On the cover: Sweater, Joseph, SM Aura Premier.

DEVOURED 23

This page: CELTIC XL Bicolor, Charriol Man.

Group Publisher Bea Ledesma Editor in Chief Ria Prieto Creative Director Nimu Muallam Copy Editor September Grace Mahino Editorial Assistant Pristine de Leon Staff Photographer Patrick Segovia External Relations Officer Liza Jison

FOLLOW US ON

Contributing Writers Chryssa Celestino, Jaclyn ClementeKoppe, Jacque de Borja, Doris Dumlao-Abadilla, Denise Fernandez, Clinton Palanca, Margaux Salcedo Contributing Photographers Patrick Diokno, Pat Mateo Contributing Illustrator Danica Condez , Reese Lansangan

Food writers on local dining’s creme de la creme

Board Chairperson Alexandra Prieto-Romualdez SVP and Group Sales Head, Inquirer Group of Companies Pepito Olarte Sales Director Ma. Katrina Mae Garcia-Dalusong Business and Distribution Manager Rina Lareza Sales Inquiries Email: sales@hip.ph Telephone No: +63 (2) 403 8825 local 239

Inquirer RED Magazine-OFFICIAL

@inquirerRED

@inquirerred

Want to see the other issues of Inquirer RED Magazine? Check out inquirer.net/red

BARED

Natural Roots

How the Earth’s produce birthed a 40-year-old beauty brand WORDS JACQUE DE B ORJA

Studies have long suggested that feelings are stirred by certain fragrances. Lavender—the ubiquitous scent we find in soaps and oils—also triggers feelings of trust among those who smell it.

From being a myth to a proven study, it was told that people are more inclined to trust one another—either with their secrets, their possessions, or anything else—in a room scented with lavender.

A scent also known to alleviate anxiety and sleeplessness, lavender is similarly credited for birthing and sustaining a beauty brand we’ve come to know very well: L’Occitane. When Olivier Bassan was 23 years old, he used steam distillation to produce essential oils out of rosemary and lavender, which he sold in open markets. Forty years later, his brand expanded its product line past essential oils and soaps, and L’Occitane is now known for their array of products that stem from ingredients like shea butter, verbena, almond, immortelle, and of course, lavender.

Shea butter is one of the main ingredients for L’Occitane’s famous hand creams. It was also known as “women’s gold” because it was only women who harvested and knew how to produce shea butter from the nut, as Baussan learned on a trip to Burkina Faso.

The brand started out working with 12 women who supplied them with the shea butter needed to produce the now-bestselling products; now, L’Occitane employs over a thousand women. It’s all about supporting and empowering women in what they do, and in celebration of L’Occitane’s 40 years in the beauty industry, its shea butter hand creams come in a special edition packaging with colorful prints that say “40 Years of Love.”

From top: Verbena candle, verbena hand lotion, Almond Velvet Balm; Verbena Showergel; Verbena hand cream; Immortelle Divine Cream, all from L'Occitane.

One of the aromatic herbs that grow in Provence is verbena, known for its refreshing scent. L’Occitane’s Verbena line carries perfumes, home scents, soaps, and even haircare products, all of which carry the uplifting smell of freshly picked leaves. To add to one’s imagination, the glass bottles are inspired by the idea of a leaf preserved within an ice cube, further emphasizing the light properties of both the herb and the products.

Another ingredient that L’Occitane uses are almonds, known to provide moisture to the skin. L’Occitane is also famous for using every part of the almond, even using the shell as scrub, and the peace of mind that comes from using a brand that maximizes its resources is part of the appeal.

There is an abundance of blooms in Corsica called the immortelle—long-lasting and non-fading even after it has been harvested. These are used as the main ingredient in L’Occitane’s anti-aging line, as the essence of these blooms are known to make skin firmer and plumped up from within.

Finally, the famous lavender—the flower that started it all and the first one Baussan distilled into essential oils. These flowers grow in abundance in Provence, in fields of “blue gold,” as they call it. As one of the ingredients that L’Occitane is quite known for, lavender is represented in a whole line of products, from luxurious foaming baths and hand creams to pillow mist, soaps, and even a candle. It’s perfect to use before drifting off to sleep as it relaxes and soothes the senses.

SPECIAL FEATURE

One Fine Diamond A hotel at the heart of Makati immerses its guests in a balance of leisure and business WORDS PRIS T INE DE L E ON

There are few things more inviting than a place that merges business with pleasure. To a degree, Makati has that exact appeal: by day, the city of serious businessmen; by night, a wine-and-cocktail district that never sleeps. It follows then that a hotel nestled conveniently at its center would wield a similar attraction: The Makati Diamond Residences, serious and straightforward with its strong façade, offers leisure spaces like the club lounge, an Asian and Continental restaurant named Alfred, and a whisky and cigar bar.

At the heart of the business district, the hotel has been somewhat of a home base of visiting executives.

It's a stone's throw away from Makati's chief shopping malls and a five-minute walk away from Ayala Avenue, making it the district's anchor destination.

Inside each room, there's a dominantly modern and masculine motif—the simple lines and neutral palette not wishing to impress visitors in their show of panache, but inviting them simply to settle and unwind. Furniture by Bo Concept, Calligaris, and Las Palmas find residence in the rooms—the largest of which is a 204-sqm, two-bedroom loft that comes with a separate entertainment area, an office, and a spacious dining room. With the luxury amenities in each room—complete with a kitchen if you feel like cooking—it's almost tempting to stay inside and indulge for the whole duration of the stay.

Either at noon or at midnight, hotel guests can satisfy their appetites downstairs at Alfred—the name, a nod to Batman's faithful butler who can provide even the most impossible of requests. The 24-hour restaurant serves cuisines like the US Angus and Honey-Cured

Bacon Burger with Truffle Fries, Baked Lapu-Lapu Fillet, Scallops with Seasonal Vegetables and Marble Potatoes, and Miso-Rubbed US Angus Sirloin with Seasonal Vegetable and French Fries. Those with a taste for lighter bites may opt to sample their signature ube ensaymada at Baked or order a tipple from the bartenders who have been trained by the Blind Pig. Elevating Makati Diamond Residences from a luxury hotel to a lifestyle playground, there are amenities like an indoor lap pool, the gym with traditional and non-traditional machines, the TRX studio, and the Wellness Center where full-body massages, reflexology, and spa treatments await until midnight.

Catering to their visitors' every whim and fancy, the hotel similarly keeps a club lounge where guests can enjoy exclusive privileges like daily refreshments, evening snacks, a buffet breakfast and afternoon cocktails until 10pm.

A private cinema sits at the 28th floor, serving as an extension of the lounge, and on the same floor is the hotel's new whisky and cigar bar. The design is reminiscent of an old English pub, as though the hotel wishes not only to provide its guest a new experience, but to transport them to a whole new era.

Makati Diamond Residences has established itself among the pantheon of Makati's pioneering destinations, infusing newfound energy to the playground of executives and nightcrawlers. Either the place for uninterrupted relaxation or the spot to have some booze with fellow travelers, the hotel balances business with the best kinds of leisure.

Indoor lap pool

Gym

ACQUIRED

Time Capsule

Trinkets and devices commanding a second glance WORDS P RIS T IN E DE L E ON

MIDDAY MEMENTO

There are those who attach certain memories to jewelry. Recalling transient summer holidays, Jewelmer Joaillerie’s Petits bonheurs collection flaunts the littlest figurines of coconut trees, shades, milkshakes, and ice cream cones—summer’s bric-a-brac made immortal with South Sea pearls adorned with 18-karat gold charms.

YOUTHFUL REVIVAL

Perricone, with line after line of Cosmoceuticals since 1997, has shown how science has revolutionized skincare. Their No Makeup Skincare collection now pledges to restore the color of youth and sculpt youthful facial architecture. Among which are the treatment foundation formulated with Alpha Lipoic Acid, a lipstick with Neuropeptides to enhance lip contour, and a cheek serum with DMAE to shape softly rounded cheeks.

No Blush Blush

No Foundation Foundation

No Lipstick Lipstick

SECOND THE MOTION Watch collectors might have just found their new objects of fancy in the form of winders. Wolf ’s Blake collection, with each piece covered in Teju lizard-embossed leather, mimics human movement to give your automatic watches their needed daily turns. Operating on Japanese Mabuchi motor with silent running nylon gears and a quartz eye counter preventing the machine from over winding, all watch aficionados can rest as Wolf ’s machine keeps the clock in motion.

ADMIRED

HIGH TIDE

With a new show and four restaurant concepts under his wing, Chef JP Anglo rides the current of Filipino cuisine’s rising fame W O RDS CH RYS S A CE L E S T IN O

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Chef JP Anglo is hungry.

P H OT OGRAP H Y PAT RICK DIOKN O

On some days, he experiments: he skewers fish ceviche coated in crushed chicharon or he grills prawns by the shore with a pre-teen audience ogling at the day’s fresh catch. At times, he fails.

He screws up an omelet, but pleases a crowd with three-in-one-coffee-marinated pork chops anyway.

He is famished—for food, for an audience to feed, for the many experiences that are waiting for him. And it shows.

In a new TV stint with CNN Philippines, Anglo surfs with and cooks for strangersturned-friends around the country. Hungry with Chef JP is a reality show that’s less Keeping Up with the Kardashians and more real and raw. We get a glimpse of what’s behind his usual cheerful facade, seeing instead a sweating chef fulfilling a lifelong dream of surfing rough waves in hot, remote islands and churning out new, inspired dishes in nearby test kitchens.

Backed by a team who understands him and his vision—one that combines food and surf culture—Anglo has already shot a full season.

Each episode is a montage of three cooking scenes, surfing scenes, and other adventurous gigs. “It’s something new,” he says. “It’s not your typical show, it’s not a hosting show [that’s] scripted. Menus aren’t planned. It’s raw and very unfiltered.”

The show provides him a playground. It’s a space to make mistakes, which he can’t exactly afford in his restaurants Sarsa, Kafé Batwan, Maipao, and Mushi. “One time, surfing went so good, we came to the kitchen late. It was embarrassing! It was already 3 p.m., and we hadn’t cooked for the people yet. They waited, but I knew that even though we were late, it was going to be worth it. They also knew that since they would get to see the cooking process.”

The show also taught him a new way to live. “You don’t need much to have a good or happy life. We learned simplicity while we were filming. We went to all these rural surf spots that had nothing, but [the people] are happier than we here in Manila,” Anglo says. “Our happiness consists of our cellphones and social media. [In these places,] they could surf, see their friends, and talk. No one’s holding a phone!”

But more than anything, this new stint brings him back to where it matters: the roots of the Filipino, the nature of our palates and behavior. For one, Anglo has experienced the Filipinos’ signature hospitality in its warmest form, and through it, he found new flavors and rediscovered what else he, a Filipino, can do.

Anglo works in and for the booming local food industry, and what a time to live: with fellow chefs gaining recognition abroad and Filipino

Clockwise from left: White polo, shorts, shoes, all from Paul Smith, Greenbelt 5. Blue shirt, pants, both from Paul Smith, Greenbelt 5; shirt, Paul Smith, Greenbelt 5; printed shorts, Calvin Klein, SM Aura Premier; cap, sandals, both from Paul Smith, Greenbelt 5.

Shirt, Paul Smith, Greenbelt 5; white Pants, Calvin Klein, SM Aura Premier.

White printed shirt, Joseph, SM Aura Premier.

“Now, we’re more ballsy.

We’re more confident.

We know our cuisine is good.

We don’t apologize anymore.”

Shirt, Paul Smith, Greenbelt 5.

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cuisine slowly penetrating the international gastronomic consciousness, it’s easy to keep wanting to see what’s next. “This year, everything and everyone is stepping up. I’m proud that we have more balls now,” he says. “Before, when we presented adobo, it’s like, ‘That’s just it?’ ‘Yeah, sorry, it’s so dark.’

We were so apologetic! Now, we’re more ballsy. We’re more confident.”

He adds, “We know that our cuisine is good. We seldom apologize anymore. Sometimes, we even don’t.”

Anglo credits Filipino cuisine’s potential to the many untapped ingredients available locally. Now that chefs are slowly digging out and unraveling these flavors everywhere—in Anglo’s case, in as far as Mati,

Davao—our brand of food is becoming richer and complex. “[We chefs] are out to prove to the world that our food is good. We’re driven, we’re dynamic. We have so many influences. I think now, we’re doing it the right way. Before, we were just copying [each other.] We didn’t do much with our food. Now, we’re more innovative.”

In the next episode of Hungry, Anglo will most probably be surfing again. He might mess up another egg dish. He might keep the locals hungrier longer than they’ve ever been.

But he’s never been this driven. He cooks, he surfs, he keeps making dishes we’ll be proud of. Those are for sure.

INSPIRED

Grace Before Meals The glasses, the silver, and the various visual seductions that serve as preludes to a feast W ORD S P RI S T IN E DE L E ON

S T YL IN G K ARE N S AN T OS

P H OT OGRAP H Y PAT M AT E O

Cup set, Portmeirion, Rustan’s Makati; spoon, AC+632, Greenbelt 5; silver-plated tea set, AC+632, Greenbelt 5.

TABLE MANNERS

Considering that the English have long kindled a fancy for ornate silverware and plates like those of the flowered Portemeirion sets, there isn’t anything quite like wood or woven place mats to curb our own twee inclinations. The Grand Service at the Royal Palace might polish every silver to perfection but here, raw touches lend a natural, laid-back edge to break the monotony of too much refinement.

COOL COMPANY

Adding character to a ladies’ lunch, abaca coasters and papaya leaves designed by Karen Santos do well in recalling the rustle and hum of the island life. Coupled with bowls inspired by tropical fruits, the table sets the stage for some indulgent afternoon chatter.

Pitcher, Kassa, Celestina, Greenbelt 5; serving bowl, SM Home, SM Makati; drinking glasses, Kassa, Celestina, Greenbelt 5; white plate, Crate & Barrel, SM Aura Premier; soup bowl, SM Home, SM Makati; cutlery, Rustan’s Makati; table napkins, Kassa, Celestina, Greenbelt 5; place mat, Kassa, Celestina, Greenbelt 5.

MESSING AROUND

Stefano Seletti once described his kitchen as “big but organized chaos.” After churning out pieces such as the warped Sonny glass and the confusing yet coveted hybrid plates, his Italian namesake brand Seletti has indeed turned tabletops into lovely tableaus of assorted mayhem. With vessels inspired by industrial machinery and Kassa’s traditional colored glass, gather a creative group around the table and witness ideas spring forth from one fine mess.

Hybrid plate, Seletti, Celestina, Greenbelt 5; plate holder, Kassa, Celestina, Greenbelt 5; drinking glass, Diesel by Seletti, Celestina, Greenbelt 5; wine glass, Kassa, Celestina, Greenbelt 5.

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This page: Shoes (clockwise from top): Simone Rocha, Univers, One Rockwell; Jil Sander, Homme et Femme, Eight Rockwell; Gucci, Greenbelt 4; Louis Vuitton, Greenbelt 4. Bread: Trigo and Wildflour Cafe+Bakery.

Ants, Blue Carreon Home, Century City Mall.

Opposite page: Bags (clockwise from left): CĂŠline, Homme et Femme, Eight Rockwell; Louis Vuitton, Greenbelt 4; Valextra, Homme et Femme, Eight Rockwell; Kate Spade, Greenbelt 3. Cupcakes, Cupcakes by Sonja, Power Plant Mall.

Ants, Blue Carreon Home, Century City Mall.

ATTIRED

Sweet Temptations

The angles, curves, and whimsies that give form to fragrance's ephemeral charm WORDS P RIS T IN E DE L E ON IL LUS T RAT ION N IM U M UAL L AM

The market’s delectable offerings stoking fantasies of la dolce vita S T YL IN G N IM U M UAL L AM P H OT OGRAP H Y PAT RICK S E GOV IA

ATTIRED

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Show of Bravado Objects and apparel completing the armory of the modern man

Messenger bag, Bottega Veneta, Greenbelt 4; pull Sweater, Lacoste Greenbelt 3; money clip, Valextra, Homme et Femme, Eight Rockwell; belts, Bottega Veneta, Greenbelt 4; Drive de Cartier watch steel, self-winding Manufacture mechanical movement 1904-PS MC, Charriol, Greenbelt 4; shorts, Adolfo Dominguez, Rustan’s Makati.

Eyewear, Boss, Greenbelt 5; sandals, Dune, Greenbelt 5; bike with Smartphone holder, Hermès, Greenbelt 3.

Organizer, Hermès, Greenbelt 3; sweater, Eden Park, Rustan’s Makati; pants, Lacoste, Greenbelt 3; 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim watch, Montblanc, Rustan’s Makati; bucket hat, Hermès, Greenbelt 3; slippers, Bottega Veneta, Greenbelt 4.

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SQUARED

Counter Culture

Kitchen spaces that go against the grain, finding the convergence of form, fantasy, and function

W O RDS PRISTINE DE LE ON

TRAIL KITCHEN

Designed by Carlo Colombo, Trail Kitchen follows the principle that kichens are made for cooking and entertaining. In this Italian kitchen, the base units are done in bianco embossed lacquered doors with pull-out storage baskets, and the top, in diamond micro-blasted composite stone—giving a worn-out kitchen the classic touch of anything Italian.

Trail Kitchen, Poliform, design@poliform.ph.

DADA KITCHEN

When it comes to cooking, order precedes creation—at least according to the designers of Dada Kitchen. Employing cuttingedge technology to a homemaker’s sacred space, designer Dante Bonnucelli created Vela: one where architectural techniques converge with clean designs. Paneling materials involve highpressure laminates and overlapping lines on countertops seamlessly conceal the technology behind the process.

Dada Kitchen, Cucina Mobili, Inc., inquiry@cucinamobili.com.ph.

EGGERSMANN KITCHEN

Spaces and structures created by German kitchen brand Eggersmann have been known as careful studies in contemporary design: minimalist and completely devoid of clutter. In collaboration with Eggersmann Germany, the local team headed by interior designer Archie Nacpil engineers freeflowing kitchen spaces, anchored by island units that make a statement.

Eggersman, info@eggersmann.com.ph.

FOOD

The Rise of the Celebrity Chef Do these chefs deserve the attention and adulation they get in the age of social media?

WORDS JACLYN CL E M E N T E- KOP P E

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They are all over media, all of a sudden. Now, even private school-educated brats who grew up with kusineras want to be them, making their parents shell out large sums of money so they can learn how to make a proper hollandaise in humid kitchens. Chefs have become the new rock stars: if you don't want to be them, then you most probably want to sleep with them.

In a country that remains socially divided and class-conscious, working in the kitchen is a surprising claim to fame. It makes one wonder what changed. How are these glorified kusineros suddenly getting more followers on Instagram than Prince William?

I turn to food industry insiders for their take on this global phenomenon that has struck our island nation as well, as I caught some of them awake late at night—probably scouring social media sites for food porn or hoping to catch No Reservation re-runs on cable.

Sassy TV Host (STH), known for his cheeky sound bites, is surprisingly pensive when I ask him the formula to becoming a celebrity chef. He pines for the days (from 1960s to 1990s, to be exact) when a chef had to possess “a combination of any of three ingredients: real talent and creativity, combined with real experience in the real world.”

He points out how Nora Daza’s bestselling cookbooks catapulted her to fame; how a slew of “successful and well-reviewed restaurants” made Larry J. Cruz a legend; and how all-around cool guy and renaissance man (he’s a champion fencer and painter, among other things) Gene Gonzalez continues to enjoy the respect of both media and his peers thanks to “an eloquence that makes for good copy. . .backed up by excellent menus and consistent dishes.”

But how things have changed, he observes.

STH recognizes how TV is a “tremendous launching pad,” showcasing a chef ’s talent in a way that is very rarely afforded to most. But, as expected in show business, “getting a chef to star in a show is not usually about skill—although that is important, too—but really more of good looks and good English.” Are we talking about Erwan Heussaff ? “Overrated,” he deadpans.

“But he’s such a beautiful man!” exclaims normally Demure Food Editor (DFE) about the popular TV host/restaurateur. I agree; should we hate on him because he has perfect hair? Is it such a travesty to gaze upon his chiseled pecs beneath that deep V-neck while he massacres a chicken piccata? “He should at least know how to cook,” declares Chinito Chef (CC). He expresses his frustration over Heussaff ’s weak grasp of basic cooking skills in his Tastemade videos. And yet, you watch those, I pointed out. “His videos are well-made,” CC admits, “but he needs to learn more. Soon, people will catch on that he doesn’t completely know what he’s doing.”

Chat room gossip shifts towards other targets—such as the TV contest winner whose head has swelled to massive proportions, much to the dismay of his previously-supportive producer.

There’s the conceited restaurateur who resents constructive criticism, his unremarkable string of restaurants enjoying consistent buzz thanks to the endorsement of celebrity friends.

But while some names get eye roll emojis, these food industry followers are also generous with their praise for those whom they feel deserve the accolades. Sandy Daza is untouchable in terms of pedigree and talent. DFE states, “(Daza) can definitely cook. He just needs to make his servings

(at Wooden Spoon) bigger.” Chef Tatung Sarthou, with the almost simultaneous launches of his TV show and long-awaited book on Filipino cookery, is a celebrity that certainly earned his stripes through smarts and mileage.

JP Anglo appears to be a younger Gene Gonzalez, being quite the Renaissance man himself, with tapings and surfing taking up equal parts of his time, even as he runs his Sarsa chain and the more high-end Kafé Batwan in Rockwell, Makati. “Anglo’s restaurants are well-received, serving delicious food,” DFE points out. “So he can play around as much as he wants.” His laidback style has also made him a likable colleague.

“He knows how to balance. As a chef, you need to do other things to de-stress, gather inspiration,” CC imparts. “That's why Anglo is always fresh and his dishes are inspired.”

Surprisingly, the aforementioned object of disdain is also admired for his determination. “In a way, I think Erwan deserves his success because he’s hardworking. Mas bilib ako sa masipag kaysa sa magaling,” CC says. “Magaling is talent; it’s something that comes naturally. Masipag gains skill and experience. Developing a skill means learning how to do something and to keep doing it well.”

If gathering a million followers on Instagram is a skill or having a dish be the most liked on social media that day be the new measure of success, then perhaps these celebrity chefs are good at what they do. But we still crave more than that, despite our cultural fascination with celebrities. It seems that popularity these days is misconstrued for respect, and that is where our confusion lies.

This insider’s comment pretty much sums it up: “Who is the Pinoy equivalent of David Chang?

Or Mario Batali? Parang wala.”

FROM CHINA TO VIETNAM

by Luke Nguyen, 272 pages P1,445, National Book Store

BOOKS

Food Print If that old adage “we eat with our eyes first” holds true, expect to come out satisfied after flipping through these tomes WO RDS B EA J. LEDES MA

P HOTOG RA P HY PATRI CK S E G OVI A

NANBAN

by Tim Anderson, 256 pages P1,540, Fully Booked Created by a Wisconsin-born, self-confessed “Japanophile,” Tim Anderson dreamt of the exotic East from a young age, and later, won MasterChef with a ramen dish: “a souped-up ramen with porcini-infused pork broth and lobster gyoza with black truffles.” Nanban follows his path to Japanese soul food, breaking down the fundamentals of the cuisine from udon (a fat wheat flour noodle dish) to chashu (stewed pork) to daifuku (a classic tea confection).

Australia-bred Luke Nguyen should be familiar to everyone with cable access to the TLC network. The TV chef has made a name for himself traveling the world (and Vietnam) and cooking global dishes with a distinctly Vietnamese twist.

Here, Nguyen travels to the Mekong River, seeking out the uncharted culinary territory of Chinese regions, from the Yunnan Province, to Myanmar’s Yangon, then venturing to North Thailand and Laos. Nguyen proves that the diversity of Asian cuisine has yet to be tapped and fans of these regional traditions should consider investing in Nguyen’s journey.

IT'S ALL EASY

by Gwyneth Paltrow, 288 pages P1,540, Fully Booked In Gwyneth Paltrow’s follow-up to 2013’s It’s All Good, the lifestyle guru-turned-Goop magnate wanted to create a cookbook that fellow parents like her could flip through for something quick and easy. In It’s All Easy, Paltrow has worked around recipes that call for little to no sugar, dairy or gluten. “Food doesn’t need to be complicated to be good,” she writes in the intro. Amen.

I HATE KALE

THE WURST OF LUCKY PEACH

by Chris Ying and the editors of Lucky Peach, 240 pages P1,144, Fully Booked

This book is the wurst. From the editors of Lucky Peach comes this culinary foray into the world of sausages.

Far from an encyclopedic approach, editor Chris Ying and his team simply focused on the sausages they like, from Mexico’s green chile chorizo to Japan’s Arabiki sausages and Morocco’s market Merguez.

Accompanied by playful visuals and an equally playful tone, Ying encourages readers to “play with their weiner.”

by Tucker Shaw, 96 pages P629, National Book Store Devotees of the trendy veg will still find plenty to enjoy here, while converts will discover multiple ways to enjoy the hearty greens. Tucker Shaw admits that there are plenty of reasons to hate kale. “It’s painfully hip, and hipness is nothing if not hateable.”

And, he adds, “For 99.999 percent of human history, kale dishes have tasted awful. But here’s the thing,” he explains, “if you can get past the hate, you’ll figure out that kale’s worth eating.” In his 35 odes to kale, he includes recipes as basic as a salad and smoothie to the more esoteric, like cocktails and updated retro classics like chicken cordon kale.

ON THE RADAR

Through the Grapevine The latest bites in the realm of dining W ORDS DE N IS E F E RN AN DE Z

IL LUS T RAT ION S DAN ICA CON DE Z

PRIVATE AFFAIRS

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MELTING POTS

For the first time in Manila, the World Street Food Congress, held last Apr. 20 to 24 at Bonifacio Global City, included a conference and a food festival, all to celebrate heritage cuisines and the universal language of street food. The congress dialogues and discussions on food innovations and ideas were attended by chefs JP Anglo, Fernando Aracama, and Chele Gonzalez.

UBER GOOD

Everyone’s favorite ride-sharing app is now getting a more delectable update. Instead of private drivers, UberEATS offers food straight to your doorstep, with the bonus of being able to track your delivery through the app. Officially launched in late 2015, UberEATS is currently moving closer to Philippine shores, landing in Melbourne, Australia (one of the few cities in the world to run the app, alongside New York, Paris, Toronto, and Los Angeles) in April. UberEATS Melbourne is currently partnered with over 80 restaurants and food establishments in the city, making a new and convenient dining experience only a click away.

Private and personalized dining is gaining prominence around the globe. Not only is food the commodity, but also the experience. From underground, invite-only restaurants in New York to Canadian chefs hosting private catering in the comfort of their own homes, it’s undeniable that consumers want more than the usual restaurant ambiance. Locally, private dining is also gaining prominence around the metro with more and more renowned chefs such as Happy Ongpauco-Tiu, Justin Golangco, and Noel dela Rama opening their homes (and also going to their diners’ residences) to those who long for a more intimate and customized dining experience.

DEVOURED

Forks in the Road Two food writers round up the finest eats in town

TOP THREE RESTAURANTS FOR EATING STEAK

by Clinton Palanca Never has there been a better time to find a restaurant where we can seat ourselves around a large slab of grilled beef; the possibilities are endless, at every price point. But now that I’m older, I figure that if I’m going to live on the wild side and risk gout—as well the buttons of my shirt popping out after a meal—I will shell out money for a really good steak at a place that specializes in charbroiling them to perfection.

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Smith Butcher & Grill Room, Makati This is at present my go-to place for steak because I feel that their aging process is the most meticulously managed. It looks a lot like a date place—which is good if you’re on one, but not so much if you want more casual dinner conversations or you plan to bring kids.

2

Prime 101, Makati This place probably has the best value for your money, though I wouldn’t go as far as saying it’s cheap to eat here. The ambience is a bit unusual (I believe “eclectic” is the polite word), but the owners and the chef are friendly and they know what they’re doing.

3

Elbert’s Steak Room, Makati This is the best in terms of overall experience. The steps up to the restaurant might pose a problem to people with joint or back problems, but otherwise, this is the kind of tucked-away restaurant that I like. It’s quiet, the tables are well-spaced, and the Riedel crystal gleams.

New Romantics

TOP THREE HEALTHY RESTAURANTS

by Margaux Salcedo I must confess a bit of argumentum ad verecundiam on this matter, as I tend to prefer food with a lot of fat (duck, chicharon), carbs (I can live on pizza), and oil (stir-fried Chinese anything will always make me smile); but here are a few memorable healthy restaurants that I’ve enjoyed throughout the years:

1

Eve’s Garden, La Trinidad, Benguet The home of Eve, a nutritionist, has a spectacular view of the Benguet mountains and the food that is placed on your table is from her garden.

Her salad is complete with edible flowers, and because the greens are so fresh, you really feel more energetic and alive when you leave her home.

2

Antonio’s Fine Dining, Tagaytay They were taught to grow their own produce by farmer Kano, a legend for teaching Tagaytay pioneers about farming back in the early ’90s. Today, they have both specialty greens and organic pigs. When chef Tonyboy Escalante needs any ingredient, he just hollers next door and voila, it’s in the kitchen.

3 Taza Fresh Table, Tagaytay Like Antonio’s, this restaurant has the upper hand when it comes to salads. Chef Jayme Natividad offers a mean alugbati salad that has merited the approval of no less than Glenda Barretto, regarded as “the doyenne of Philippine cuisine.” How can you not love it when it also has jicama, tomatoes, a dalandan and lemon vinaigrette on top of chef Jayme’s own salted egg dressing.

FRENCH FLAVORS HEIGHTEN THE ALLURE OF A 40-YEAR-OLD HOTEL

There is a new Frenchman taking over Old Manila. Revamping the old menu to launch new dishes, French chef Bertrand Charles has granted The Peninsula Manila’s signature restaurant a renewed nuance of je ne sais quoi.

P H OT O G R A PH Y PAT R I C K S EG O V I A

From left to right: Pan-seared Foie Gras, Tuna Tartare, and Pan-seared Mahi-mahi

BUSINESS

Risky Bets, Delicious Pay-offs W ORD S DORIS DUM L AO - ABADIL L A IL LUS T RAT ION RE E S E L AN S AN GAN

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While we all love home-cooked meals, many urban-dwellers make dining out a way of life.

Driven by the country’s expanding middle class and the urbanization trend, the culinary business is definitely in vogue. We’ve seen international brands entering the market as well as new homegrown concepts coming out. As such, the merger and acquisition (M&A) scene in food retailing became exciting. My friend Astro del Castillo, who chairs Moderne Culinaire Academy and has invested in a new restaurant, says there’s a lot of room in the food retailing sector to consolidate, and rosy underlying fundamentals make it attractive to cash-awash investors. “Just look at how many new condos are rising,” del Castillo says, adding that this is a good indicator of how much increase in demand for food there will be. Apart from the boom in business process outsourcing, the rise in tourism is also boosting the sector—alongside Filipinos’ changing palate.

The biggest M&A deal we’ve seen so far in food retailing was the acquisition of a controlling stake in Shakey’s and Project Pie chains by the Po family (in partnership with Singapore’s sovereign wealth fund GIC). The deal was estimated at P15 billion based on a 100 percent enterprise valuation of the holding firm for Shakey’s, Project Pie, and Bakemasters (a supplier of bakery products to Shakey’s and others). This topped the P4-billion acquisition by Max’s Group of the Pancake House group in 2014.

I asked Chris Po, president of Century Pacific Group Inc. (CPGI), what the key considerations were in making this big investment. “One of the main attractions for us of the Shakey’s brand is how the brand's relevance cuts across the A, B, and C market segments with a reputation for good food, engaging store formats, value for money pricing, and customer centric service,” he says. “It takes years or even decades to build a

brand. And the batting average for those who try to create a new brand is not very high. So when an opportunity to invest in a business with such strong brand equity and competent management arose, we were naturally very interested and saw it as a long term investment in the Philippine consumer market.”

While other foreign dining franchises have come and gone, Shakey’s has been here for 40 years. As of end of 2015, it had close to 170 stores nationwide while Project Pie, a novel chain that allows customers to select the ingredients for their pizza, had 12 stores.

Any acquisition will also have to make sense financially, Po notes. “So when we look at an opportunity, we'd have to convince ourselves that it would give us a decent return above our cost of capital.” CPGI isn’t a newbie in food retailing. The group also owns the exclusive local franchise for Yoshinoya, a renowned Japanese fast food chain introduced in the Philippines in 2001.

On the part of the seller, choosing the buyer is a big responsibility. Recently, businessman Edgar “Injap” Sia II sold to Jollibee Foods Corp. his remaining 30 percent stake in the Mang Inasal Ilonggo-style grilled chicken chain for P2 billion, which thus valued the entire franchise at around P6.68 billion. The initial 70 percent stake in Mang Inasal had been sold to Jollibee for P3 billion in 2010.

“As Mang Inasal’s founder and with the sacrifices I and my family members have poured into building Mang Inasal brick by brick, it’s natural for me to make sure that every decision I make is done at the best time and directed for the long-term benefit of the stakeholders in general,” Sia says. “For 12 years since we opened the first store in Iloilo City, Mang Inasal has become a grown-up adult that can already stand and grow further on its own. And for the past five

years since Jollibee acquired 70 percent of Mang Inasal in 2010, it surpassed the three difficult business stages of transitioning, from the startup infancy stage to adolescence stage and now to strong adulthood stage.” Mang Inasal now has 460 stores nationwide, generating P12.6 billion in systemwide sales revenue in 2015.

It’s great to see some Filipino food retailers globalizing. Jollibee is now among the world’s largest fast-food chain operators by market capitalization. It recently completed a deal to buy an initial 40 percent stake in fast-growing American burger chain Smashburger, gaining a ticket into the mainstream American hamburger market.The deal, which was based on an enterprise value of around $335 million for 100 percent of Smashburger, allows Jollibee to acquire full control of this American chain by 2026. Jollibee also previously bought local restaurant chains in China and bagged the right to propagate the Dunkin Donuts franchise there. Jollibee likewise controls 50 percent of Superfoods, a regional holding firm that owns the Pho24 noodle and Highlands Coffee chains alongside the franchise for American restaurant chain Hard Rock in Vietnam, Macau, and Hong Kong.

After taking over the Pancake House group, Max’s Group brings key brands overseas. Recently, it signed deals to open Yellow Cab stores in China and the Middle East. Other brands in the group’s portfolio are Dencio’s, Kabisera ng Dencio’s, Teriyaki Boy, Sizzlin’ Pepper Steak, The Chicken Rice Shop, and Maple. Max’s Group also brought in franchises for Jamba Juice and Krispy Kreme.

As more money flows into food retailing, it can only benefit the country by creating more jobs and providing more options to foodies. For those local brands expanding overseas, it’s a chance to hoist the Philippine banner in the international culinary arena.

INQUIRED

CHEF JORDY NAVARRA owner of Toyo Eatery

For veggies and farm products, favorites would be Malipayon Farms, Down to Earth, and Holy Carabao

Right now, it's Philippine Fermented Food.

26

Tokyo. Quality of products as well as the traditions and techniques behind their food culture are just amazing.

A grill

Soft Serve Ice Cream Machine

OCCUPATION

WHERE TO SOURCE INGREDIENTS

FAVORITE COOKBOOK

Let the flavors of the key ingredients stand out in a dish.

owner of Cupcakes by Sonja

We get chocolates from France and Belgium.

The fresh produce, we source it locally.

Pierre Herme PH10

FOOD DESTINATION

COOKING TOOL YOU COULDN’T PART WITH

Tokyo and New York

KitchenAid Mixer. Makes life easier and you can multitask.

COOKING TOOL YOU WISH YOU HAD

The Curator for a late night drink, Poblacion for late night eats

SONJA OCAMPO

WHERE TO HAVE DRINKS

COOKING SECRET

Molteni stove from Saint-Uze

Bank Bar is always a good idea.

Brown butter. It adds a whole new level of complex, nutty flavors to any kind of cake. I can even use it for pasta, risotto, and seafood.

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