Southern Living: 2016 April

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THE KIN

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NILA MA

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The King’s School Manila

World Class Education Think Big You want the best for your child. KSM forms part of one of the world’s leading international school groups. With schools from New York to Nanjing, your child joins an elite international community where children

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Kuala Lumpur - MANILA - Marbella - Moscow - Nanjing - New York - Pamplona - Sao Paulo - Tashkent - Yangon

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CONT ENTS 12

18 COVER STORY Jordy Navarra puts toyo on the map

FEATURE Exploring the land of honey

Cover photo by Edric Chen

APRIL 2016 04 FIXTURE The virtual gallery of local travelers

24 MARKET Tribal-inspired curiosities and commodities

08 CRAFT Adding a new surface to the breakfast spread

42 EATS Redefining farm-to-table

09 BEAUTY Chemical reactions in your favorite scents

48 THE GET Wear Athens on your feet

40 EATS Comfort found in space and food

EDITOR’S NOTE Taking flight The hankering to explore and escape the concrete jungle has become almost tangible with travel photos littering various social media channels and the alltoo-frequent seat sales for major commercial flights. Undoubtedly, domestic tourism has increased exponentially over the last five years. Urban dwellers have started conquering seas and summits in all corners of the archipelago. It is a good time to feed your fancy for nature and uncover stories of culture and heritage. In this issue, we collected

snapshots from young travel photographers that speak of local destinations worth visiting twice, and rediscovering the fading experience of stargazing. We also visited the southernmost part of the metro to discover quiet dining destinations. Chef Jordy Navarra opens his restaurant in Makati and introduces a new perspective on Filipino cuisine. He rediscovers the best local ingredients without any biases on Western standards and adds another dimension to the local palate.

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Southern Living is published by Hinge Inquirer Publications. 4F Media Resource Plaza, Mola corner Pasong Tirad Street, Barangay La Paz, Makati City. Visit www.facebook.com/ southernlivingmagazine now. Follow us on Instagram and Twitter at @slivingph. We’d love to hear from you. Email us at sliving@hip.ph. For advertising, email sales@hip.ph. This magazine was printed responsibly using recycled papers with biodegradable inks.


FEEDBACK

SOUTHERN living

IN PASSING

GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA MANAGING EDITOR DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS LEX CELERA, PRISTINE L. DE LEON, RENZ NOLLASE CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIMU MUALLAM GRAPHIC ARTIST DANICA CONDEZ STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER PATRICK SEGOVIA

Hi Southern Living! Thank you! There’s a Fully Booked branch in front of DLSU. I hope I can get a free copy there :) I love your covers, your articles, the photography, the layout. . . it fits us millennials! And to add, I’m a South Girl so it’s refreshing for me to read your issues. It makes me proud. Haha. More power to all HIP magazines! Giving y’all a salute!

CONTRIBUTORS WRITER INA AMOR MEJIA ILLUSTRATOR REESE LANSANGAN STYLISTS EDLENE CABRAL, CHARLIE CARBUNGCO, SAM LIM, MELVIN MOJICA, INA AMOR MEJIA HAIR AND MAKEUP JAN EDROSOLAN, JAYMAR LAHAYLAHAY, CHUCHIE LEDESMA, ARIA ORTEGA PHOTOGRAPHERS INA AMOR MEJIA, RALPH MENDOZA, SAM LIM, ARTU NEPOMUCENO COPY EDITOR PATRICIA ROMUALDEZ PROOFREADER SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO EDITORIAL CONSULTANT RIA FRANCISCO-PRIETO

- Mylene Domingo

BOARD CHAIRPERSON ALEXANDRA PRIETO-ROMUALDEZ IGC CHIEF INVESTMENT OFFICER AND CFO J. FERDINAND DE LUZURIAGA IGC DEPUTY CHIEF FINANCE OFFICER ATTY. RUDYARD ARBOLADO VP AND GROUP HR HEAD RAYMUND SOBERANO VP AND CHIEF STRATEGIC PLANNING OFFICER IMELDA ALCANTARA SVP AND GROUP SALES HEAD FELIPE R. OLARTE AVP FOR SALES MA. KATRINA MAE G. DALUSONG SALES SUPERVISOR JOY SANTOS-PILAR KEY ACCOUNTS SPECIALIST ANGELITA TAN-IBAÑEZ SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ABBY GINAGA, ALETHEIA ORDIALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANDIE ZUÑIGA, CHARM BANZUELO, SARAH CABALATUNGAN, LIZA JISON SALES SUPPORT ASSISTANTS KAREN ALIASAS, RECHELLE NICDAO CUSTOM SALES SUPERVISOR POLO P. DAGDAG MANAGING EDITOR ANGELA VELASCO ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR PAM BROOKE CASIN SENIOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANT PAULINE MIRANDA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS KHEENA ALELOJO, PAMELA JEAN CARLOTA, CHRISTELLE TOLISORA SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE SHANNA MALING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE INA MATEO GRAPHIC ARTISTS ROI DE CASTRO, RACHELL FLORES, KATRICE MONTES, YAYIE MOTOS, JAYCELINE SORIANO PRODUCTION MANAGER JAN CARIQUITAN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MARICEL GAVINO FINAL ART SUPERVISOR DENNIS CRUZ FA ARTIST KRISTINE MAY PAZ MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER TARA VALENCIA MARKETING ASSISTANTS ERLE MAMAWAL, JANNELLE TURIJA EVENTS ASSISTANT KIM MARIANO GRAPHIC ARTIST JANINE DELA CUESTA

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FIND SOUTHERN LIVING AT STARBUCKS COFFEE, THE MANILA PENINSULA, ALABANG COUNTRY CLUB, HEIMA, DUSIT THANI HOTEL, AYALA MUSEUM, AND FULLY BOOKED.


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FIXT URE

BIRD’S EYE VIEW

Local travel from the virtual vantage points of young adventure-seekers TEXT LEX CELERA

Staying true to our theme of finding the beauty in travel, we put together a collection of travel photos submitted by travelers from all walks of life, all prompted by the question, “What destination is worth traveling to twice?”

CARLO ABOBOTO

RACHEL HALILI

MARVIN CONANAN

@rachelhalili

@marvinconanan

“Mt. Balagbag in Bulacan, from stargazing to catching the sunrise on the mountain ranges of Sierra Madre.”

“Baler because there’s always something new to explore and experience. It’s more than just a surfing spot.”

“I would say Bohol. It has the most amazing sunsets and tranquil sunrises.”

NELLA LOMOTAN

DANA IGNACIO

FONS FAVIS

“A recent visit to Bohol made me realize that there is more to it than the famous Chocolate Hills. By chance, I discovered the Abatan River leading to Postan Forest.”

“Five hours of hiking and rock scrambling under the scorching Zambales heat to get up here? Worth it.”

“Tinuy-An Falls in Surigao del Sur. [The place gives you] that awesome feeling of nature, making you feel small.”

@mrroboboto

@nellal

@danaiggy

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HEALT H

RISING LEVELS

Heat cramps Everybody wants that beach-ready body for the summer, The heat's harmful effects but being active during this hot summer season can lead to your body, explored to heat cramps. These involuntary spasms occur in the TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA major muscles—thigh and leg (quadriceps, hamstrings, ILLUSTRATION DANICA CONDEZ gastrocnemius), core (abdominal wall and back), and arm (biceps and triceps). Cramps may happen during or after an intense activity. Ever feel like every day is just the hottest day of the year, Tip: When cramps attack, find a cooler spot or some even if your AccuWeather tells you it’s only 32 degrees shade where you can rest. Massage or gently stretch the cramped muscle/s to ease the pain. Drink lots of water outside? You’re not necessarily wrong. Since we live in an urban setting where parks and and sports drinks to replace the lost fluids. vegetation are becoming scarce and rare, cooling the air has been difficult with sparse greenery. And the prevalence of Heat exhaustion non-reflective and water-resistant construction materials Feeling lightheaded? Profusely sweating? You may have means more materials absorb incident radiation, which, been under the sun for too long. Heat exhaustion is in effect, is released as heat. Hence, the atmospheric one of the milder heat illnesses, but it may lead to heat temperature may feel like an average of one to three stroke if left untreated. Other complications are nausea, degrees higher than what is recorded. Experts call this vomiting, dehydration, and muscle weakness. increase in temperature in urban areas the Urban Heat Tip: If working outdoors or in a hot environment is unavoidable, make sure to hydrate and take regular Island effect. This phenomenon may take a toll on your body, and breaks in cool areas to balance your body temperature sweating—your body’s way to cool itself—may not be throughout the day to prevent this life-threatening enough to cope. Here’s a quick guide to different heat- illness. Once heat exhaustion occurs, the best remedy is to apply cool, damp cloths to the face and body. induced health problems and how you can beat them. Heat rash Let’s start off with the least alarming one, heat rash, also called prickly heat, is a skin irritation that is caused by excessive sweating, which can, in turn, block the skin’s sweat glands. It is more common among infants as their sweat glands are not yet fully developed. Tip: During the hottest of days, avoid wearing tight clothing. Bring out those loose cotton shirts to let sweat evaporate freely and easily. Also, avoid using heavy creams or lotions as they may clog sweat ducts.

Heat stroke Heat stroke is the most alarming of the four. This can happen when heat exhaustion is disregarded and your body fails to regulate your temperature. But unlike the previous illness, you stop sweating when this occurs. Other symptoms are confusion, fainting, seizures, or even going into a coma. Tip: This needs immediate medical attention. But quick fixes like standing in front of an electric fan or air conditioner may help ease symptoms.

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CR AF T

IN PLAIN SIGHT

Old wood and hairpin legs elevate the humble bed tray TEXT, STYLING, AND PHOTOGRAPHY INA AMOR MEJIA

BED TRAY What you’ll need: Old wood or planks to form the tray (about an inch thick, 22 inches long and 14 inches wide) Four 8-inch hairpin legs Sandpaper Liquid nails (for metal and wood) Drill (optional)

Procedure: 1. Sand the wood until smooth and varnish if needed. 2. Mark the corners underneath the wood where you want the hairpin legs, about an inch lengthwise and 1.5 inches crosswise, from the edges. Just provide enough for leg space underneath. 3. Glue the legs securely using the liquid nails, or drill in place. NOTE: You can order hairpin legs online, or have a local welder create them from scrap metal. Inspired by the DIY project on The Merry Thought.

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BEAUT Y

A CHEMICAL REACTION Know what happens to your favorite scents when the temperature rises TEXT RENZ NOLLASE ILLUSTRATION REESE LANSANGAN

Summer has the power to evoke freshness as well as discomfort, depending on your location and disposition. In Manila’s concrete hutch, a rise in temperature signals a barrage of sensory stimulation: overwhelming heat emanating from the asphalt, ripe odors rising from sewers and, on the hottest days, from the dazed co-worker. And while we usually associate the offense with the lack of a higher regard for soap, the blame can also be attributed to how heat affects scents and our olfactory senses. Warmer temperatures diffuse scents more easily and heighten our sense of smell. That is why during the hotter summer months, perfumes become necessities that are often abused. To save your favorite (and not to mention expensive) bottle of perfume from reckless spraying abandon, consider mastering these smart perfume habits.

Find a safe place The formula for the classic perfume hasn’t changed much in the past few centuries; it’s made up mainly of water, alcohol, and different combinations of essential oils. These oils react to heat and light. Keeping your perfume in a cool, dark place helps preserve its original composition. Conversely, a bright, humid place like a bathroom counter will alter your perfume’s scent. Spritz on the right spots Pulse points are still the best spots to spray your perfume on, as these areas of skin are warmer and allow scent to breathe throughout the day. Scent rises, so spraying the lower pulse points-on the ankles and behind the knees-allows perfume to linger longer. Spray some on your hair as well. It carries perfume best and diffuses scent with the slightest movement.

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Moisturize and lock Dry skin does not hold scent well as the perfume’s oils need to bind to other oils on the skin. This is the reason why hair maintains scent well: the natural oils on your tresses lock the heady scented oils in place. Before spraying on your scent, moisturize with almond oil or an unscented lotion. If you wish to create a unique scent of your own, you can opt to layer your fragrances by using a scented lotion that complements your perfume’s smell. Pick the right scent Scents react to heat. Citrus notes fade quickly in warmer weather while woodsy or musky scents last longer. Intense floral scents bloom in the heat, but be careful about how much you spritz on as a delicate blossom may turn cloying. A perfume is an extension of one’s persona. For summer, something light and refreshing is always a good thing.


UPTOWN MALL AT FORT BONIFACIO Taste the pleasures of life at Fort Bonifacio’s newest lifestyle destination

The flagship mall of Megaworld Lifestyle Malls, Uptown Mall is now officially open and already boasting a fabulous array of establishments.

The bustling and ever-dynamic Fort Bonifacio is set to get even more exciting with the arrival of a new premiere lifestyle destination—Uptown Mall. The flagship mall of Megaworld Lifestyle Malls, Uptown Mall is now officially open and boasts a fabulous array of establishments that is sure to excite mall aficionados, the curious, and the epicures. A first-rate dining experience awaits those foodies and diners at the Uptown Mall. The line has an impressive lineup of international names. Heading the list of must-try restaurants is the Singaporebased Peperoni Pizzeria, which has set its sights on fulfilling the Filipino’s endless desire for anything

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Italian with its mouthwatering selection of woodfired pizzas and a diverse menu of Italian classics. Another international restaurant that can easily satisfy every discerning palate is Morganfield’s. Inspired by the American Midwest and its cuisine, Morganfield’s main attraction is the Midwesternstyle stickybones, seasoned in mouthwatering sauces and cooked to juicy and tender perfection. Also open at the 4th level is Buffalo Wild Wings, the famous American sports bar offering hand-spun wings, a range of cold beer, and live sports action. Melt Grilled Cheesery, a restaurant dedicated to satisfy one’s cheesy cravings, is also open to serve

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SPECIAL FEAT URE cheese-lovers at the 3rd floor. Also at the same level is the sweets paradise Baskin Robbins, which serves delicious cones, shakes, treats, cakes, pies, and more. Ready to delight diners is Italianni’s, which serves a delicious array of authentic Italian dishes and other fusions, and Fely J’s Kitchen, which serves a great selection of Filipino dishes and Asian specialties. Uptown Mall also takes shopping to a whole new level with an impressive roster of luxury brands coming over and top retail brands all set to line up its hallways. Topping the list of must-visit stores are Base London, UK’s number one men’s shoes retailer, and BucketFeet, a Chicago-based store selling artist-designed sneakers and shoes, and Hedgren, a Belgian brand best known for designs that marries utilitarian pragmatism and sensible European style. Beyond the Box, Complex Lifestyle Store, Sperry, Speedo, Adidas, Orange Juice, Chicco, Hush Puppies, Chris Sports, Eyecrafts, Oakley, Reef, Travel Club, Herschel, Res Toe Run and Urbanize are also ready to delight shoppers. Uptown Mall is also fast becoming a center of convenience. Now open at the lower ground floor are Rustan’s Supermarket, Robinsons Appliances, National Book Store, Bruno’s Barbers, and Union Bank. Those looking for a quick bite and their favorite comfort food can stop by McDonald’s and KFC also at the same level.

For the movie buffs, Uptown Mall also houses some of the most luxurious cinemas in the metro. Located at the 3rd floor of Uptown Mall, Uptown Cinemas is composed of five world class theatres with the latest screens and sound systems, designed to give movie goers crystal-clear picture and sound, with Cinemas 1 and 2 operating in the Dolby Atmos system. Uptown Cinemas also houses a VIP Cinema with luxurious leather recliners, complete with a butler service and access to unlimited popcorn and drinks. Uptown Cinemas also boasts 5 luxurious world class theatres with the latest screens and sound technology that will give movie goers a different kind of movie experience. Dolby Atmos is an award-winning sound program created to give movie lovers the most innovative and immersive experience in film viewing, thanks to multidimensional surround sound. Other offerings at the Uptown Place include more international shopping and dining brands, a food hall featuring 11 distinctly new concepts and offering international cuisines, a sky garden overlooking Uptown Bonifacio skyline, a lifestyle tower, and a chapel. Uptown Mall is located at 36th St. cor. 9th Ave. Uptown Bonifacio in Fort Bonifacio. For more information please contact the Megaworld Lifestyle Malls Concierge at 709-9888, 709-0888, 09178380111 or visit www.megaworldlifestylemalls.com.

Uptown Mall houses some of the most luxurious cinemas in the country including its VIP Cinema, with fully-reclining seats and is home to the country’s premiere shops.

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FEAT URE

PLAN BEE Easy recipes recalling the plight of the honeybees TEXT AND STYLING CHARLIE CARBUNGCO PHOTOGRAPHY RALPH MENDOZA

Used as spread on toast, natural sweetener for your morning tea, or dressing for your salad, honey is a staple in every home’s cupboard. However, there has been a steady decline in bee populations throughout the years. With the boom of industrialization, increased pollution, and the harmful effects of modern farming, the hardworking bees’ buzz is going silent. Efforts are being made to restore these little bugs’ number, starting with the increase of honeybee farms in the country. But without consumers, ecoentrepreneurs will not be encouraged to continue this line of business. Support local farms and add a spoonful of honey to a humdrum meal.

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FEAT URE Stuffed Mushrooms with Honey-Glazed Carrots INGREDIENTS 7 fresh white mushrooms Olive oil 5 tbsp. crispy bacon, chopped 1 Brie wheel 4 tbsp. truffle oil 2 carrots 1/2 cup honey 1 cup water PROCEDURE 1. Preheat oven to 150°C. Remove the stems of the mushrooms. Put the mushrooms on a baking pan and drizzle with olive oil and salt. Pre-cook the mushrooms inside the oven for about 10 minutes, or until they turn pale brown. 2. After pre-cooking mushrooms, slice the Brie into small cubes and stuff in the mushrooms with bacon. 3. Cut the carrots into 5mm pieces. In a small pot, add the carrots, honey, and water and cook until the carrots are shiny and tender. 4. Place coated carrots on top of the mushrooms and bake again for another five minutes. 5. Serve with truffle and honey. Bourbon with Honey INGREDIENTS 3 tbsp. honey 1 cup hot water 2 cups bourbon whiskey 2 sliced apples Cinnamon sticks

2. Mix honey and hot water. 3. In a small glass, add 1/4 cup of the dissolved honey and 1/2 cup of infused bourbon. 4. Garnish with lemon zest and a cinnamon stick. Honey-Crusted Salmon with Pumpkin Vanilla Purée INGREDIENTS 3 pcs. salmon fillet with skin 1 1/2 tbsp. honey 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard 1/4 cup chopped parsley 3 cups panko breadcrumbs 1/2 cut pumpkin 1 vanilla pod Salt and pepper to taste Olive oil

mashed pumpkin and transfer the mixture back to the pot. Bring it to medium heat and continuously stir the mashed pumpkin. Add salt and pepper to taste. 5. Preheat oven to 180°C. In a medium pan with olive oil, sear the breaded salmon for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it turns golden brown. Flip the salmon over and bake for 4 to 5 minutes. Grilled Pineapple with Yogurt and Chopped Pistachio Nuts

PROCEDURE 1. Mix the panko breadcrumbs, honey, mustard, chopped parsley, and salt in a medium-sized bowl. 2. Coat the skin of the salmon with the breadcrumb mixture. 3. Before searing the breaded salmon, cut the pumpkin into small pieces. In a medium pot with water, bring it to a boil until pumpkin becomes soft. Transfer to a bowl and mash. 4. Split the vanilla pod and scrape the seeds out. Add the seeds to the

INGREDIENTS Pineapple 1 tsp. fresh thyme 1 tsp. fresh rosemary 3 tbsp. honey 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 cup yogurt 1/4 cup pistachio nuts, chopped PROCEDURE 1. Take a quarter of the pineapple. Marinate it with thyme, rosemary, honey, and olive oil. Place in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours. 2. Prepare the grilling pan and cook the marinated pineapple until grill marks become visible. Grill on both sides. 3. Slice the pineapple into three pieces. Add the yogurt and chopped pistachio nuts.

PROCEDURE 1. Combine the bourbon, sliced apples, and cinnamon sticks in a pitcher. Cover the pitcher and leave it in the refrigerator for two to three days, or until the flavor of apple and cinnamon sticks are infused in the bourbon.

Stuffed Mushrooms with Honey-Glazed Carrots

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FEAT URE

Bourbon with Honey

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FEAT URE

Honey-Crusted Salmon with Pumpkin Vanilla Purée

Grilled Pineapple with Yogurt and Chopped Pistachio Nuts

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COV ER STORY

WE ARE SOUTHERN living

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COV ER STORY

WHAT WE EAT SOUTHERN living

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COV ER STORY “When traveling, you experience amazing things that you never knew existed and you’ll be surprised with the diverse food culture abroad,” chef Jordy Navarra says. But even after his stints in The Fat Duck and Bo Innovation, he still feels most connected to Filipino food.

A growing consciousness of the role of the environment and homegrown ingredients catapults Filipino cuisine to a whole new level TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY EDRIC CHEN

“If I were to choose a dish that I truly enjoy, it would be barbecue,” says chef Jordy Navarra. The humble cuts of marinated pork carefully skewered on thin bamboo sticks have been part of Filipino food culture since the 1950s. With variations of chicken and the oddest animal parts, the barbecue—commonly known as BBQ—is quintessential Filipino fare, a dish known to all Filipinos, from all walks of life. “Everyone knows of barbecue, since we all grew up with a ‘BBQ sa kanto,’” says Navarra. Some may consider it the Filipino interpretation of the Middle East’s kebabs or other grilled fare from our Southeast Asian neighbors. Filipino cuisine has often been described as a chopsuey of other cultures’ food. However, with the many influences that our country has adapted through hundreds of years of colonization and trade, Filipino food could be best described as not only indigenous to the land, but also deeply rooted in memory. As food critic Doreen Fernandez quotes Eddy Alegre in her book Tikim, “The experience of food is ephemeral. What one puts into the mouth is the end and result of cooking that starts with the sea,

the soil, animal life. In the act of cooking, we make statements about ourselves—our understanding of relationships between ingredients, our perception of taste and appropriateness. In the act of eating, we ingest the environment.” Navarra, who has just opened a restaurant, named Toyo Eatery, introduces a progressive Filipino dining experience to the local market, playing with familiar Filipino flavors and not simply elevating traditional cookbook recipes-inviting everyone to eat out because you want to, and not because you have to. “I think a lot of people will not get it,” says food writer Clinton Palanca, “but enough people will for it to succeed, at least initially. We’ll have to wait and see.” So, enter the doors of Toyo with an open mind. Break any preconceived notions that great Filipino food is only defined by recreating your grandmother’s secret recipes for adobo, sinigang, and kare-kare. Tickle and challenge your senses. Enjoy rediscovering the best of Filipino ingredients, combined for culinary adventures with local flair and flavor. Posing the common question of why would we eat

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COV ER STORY

Clockwise from top left: The mix of industrial and natural materials designed by Luona Concept; The assortment of dinnerware mirrors the different influences in Filipino cuisine; Grilled Belly and Loin of Bangus with Silog at Toyo Eatery.

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COV ER STORY

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GROOMNG CAMILLE VILLARUEL TOYO EATERY PHOTOS PATRICK SEGOVIA ILLUSTRATION DANICA CONDEZ

“It’s not about recreating dishes. You can be Filipino in terms of how it feels, how it tastes, what you use, and how you use it.”


COV ER STORY out if our mothers can cook the best adobo at home, Navarra answers, “It’s not about recreating dishes. You can be Filipino in terms of how it feels, how it tastes, what you use, and how you use it.” Innovation is not simply synonymous with a complexity of technique. After gathering information from different places, ingredients, and food memories, Navarra views Filipino food from a whole other perspective and translates quintessential Filipino flavors into world-class dishes, starting with the best produce our land and sea can offer. “We want to layer a lot of different flavors using the same ingredients. In finding a complexity of taste with the least amount of ingredients, we come up with different permutations on how to extract flavor by not adding more.” The current mindset is letting Western mores dictate the standards. In effect, we always try to copy, and more often than not, pale in comparison. We fail to acknowledge the country’s environment, culture, and landscape, which are key to finding our culinary identity. Navarra cites an example: “If you’re looking for a very specific cheese and compare it to the cheese that you get in Europe, lugi ka talaga because I don’t think our landscape was meant to produce cheese.” The world is in the middle of a culinary renaissance, and Filipinos are slowly gaining momentum with the right ideas. With Navarra’s philosophy of continuously searching for quality, building on our strengths is the name of the game. In Toyo Eatery, located at Karrivin Plaza on Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati, Navarra offers oysters fresh from the waters of Aklan, and larger than their European cousins. Their juicy, sweet flavors are emphasized with a thin layer of cucumber and doused with a lime and basi (local rice wine) vinaigrette. This is just one of his offerings where the ingredient is the star of the dish. Food historian Felice Prudente confirms this viewpoint and encourages everyone to start looking at our own backyard and think of what we can use that others can’t. “History repeats itself. There was a golden moment in Philippine cooking when people

were experimenting to death. In the 1920s and 1930s, Filipinos were finding several ways to use and export the pili nut.” And there is more where that came from. She urges practitioners in the food industry to hit the books. “Over the centuries, people have tried to understand what in our environment is edible, and what in our environment we have been cooking. There is a lot of material on that. For instance, I’ve been researching on the different herbs and other vegetation that naturally give us salty, sweet, sour, and bitter tastes,” she elaborates. Filipino innovators are on the right track: focusing on what we have. But it doesn’t stop there. Navarra is pushing himself further by trying to discover new ways to expand the local flavor profile through relearning the process of making our favorite sawsawan. It is still a work in progress. Several months ago, Navarra and his team had the crazy idea of creating their own dipping sauces, like patis, toyo, suka, and bagoong, from scratch. The array of condiments is ubiquitous in every Filipino household everywhere in the world. It is embedded in our culture, yet nobody dared ask how we could make them at home. “It’s something we in the city never got, but it’s traditionally something everybody’s supposed to know,” he explains. “How can our food taste different if we all use the same commercial brands of these sauces?” Sawsawan adds a whole new dimension to how we eat. It offers a complex taste that serves as emphasis and accent to the already great dish or ingredient. Upon relearning these techniques, Navarra and his team branched out into fermentation and preservation. Experimenting on these new techniques requires time, patience, and accuracy. The growing interest of the public has become the impetus for more chefs, and also bakers, to move forward and bring Filipino cuisine to the global stage. Navarra concludes, “Discovering these traditions and techniques are key to pushing forward, progressing, and innovating. We need to stay true to our identity, so we can promote it the right way.”

Taste test SWEET

SOUR

BITTER

UMAMI

SALTY

Pakaskas (Nipa palm sugar)

Alibangbang leaves

Coffee

Kesong puti

Fish sauce

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COV MER ARKET STORY

6 7 3 1

2

5 8 4

9

TANGIBLE FOLKLORE Appraising a wide spectrum of ethnic-inspired pieces PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA

1. Bowl, P399.75, L’Indochine, SM Aura Premier. 2. Honey dipper, P295, Habitat, Bonifacio Global City. 3. Bamboo utensils (set of four), P495, Habitat, Bonifacio Global City. 4. Wire basket, P899, H&M Home, SM Makati. 5. Scarf, P6,800, Bijou, Greenbelt 5. 6. Lantern, P899, H&M Home, SM Makati. 7. Pillow, P1,895, Habitat, Bonifacio Global City. 8. Glass, P349, H&M Home, SM Makati. 9. Clutch, P4,800, Aranaz, Greenbelt 5.

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Let’s pig-out this Summer! Pork in the Sun Different tyPeS of Pork DiSheS: • CriSPy Pork & BeAnS With MuShrooMS • BooJ’S PorkettA • GourMet CriSP Pork knuCkLeS SiSiG

For Metro Manila customers, order via gourmetgaragecatering@gmail.com / (02) 551 60 05 / 0918 495 2999 or dine in at Bldg. 1134 Rizal Street Corner Argonaut Highway, Subic Freeport Zone, Olongapo City I.

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ST YLE

This page: Button-down shirt, Comme des Garรงons, One Rockwell East. Opposite page: Button-down shirt, Comme des Garรงons, One Rockwell East. Pants, Carl Jan Cruz, www.carljancruz.com.

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ST YLE

COME HERE Exploring sentimentality through different threads and cuts PHOTOGRAPHY RALPH MENDOZA STYLING MELVIN MOJICA

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ST YLE

Left: Button-down shirt, Rajoman, www.rajolaurel.com. Shorts, Carl Jan Cruz, www.carljancruz.com. Right: Rash guard, Carl Jan Cruz, www.carljancruz.com.

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ST YLE

Boxer shorts (worn underneath) and shorts with slit, Carl Jan Cruz, www.carljancruz.com.

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ST YLE

Left: Jacket, Rajoman, www.rajolaurel.com. Below: Coat and pants, Carl Jan Cruz, www.carljancruz.com.

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ST YLE

MAKEUP CHUCHIE LEDESMA OF MAYBELLINE NEW YORK HAIR JAN EDROSOLAN MODEL RAS OF ELITE MANILA STYLING ASSISTANT MIGUEL MANZANERO

Top, Rajoman. Pants, Carl Jan Cruz.

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FEAT URE

ENTER GALACTIC

To paraphrase Oscar Wilde, we are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at our screens to see the stars TEXT PRISTINE L. DE LEON

There’s much to be said about some foreign publications’ ongoing fixation with fairies, artisanal fancies, and other arguably trite, undoubtedly beautiful, possibly nonexistent objects. Rather than discounting these, though, as indulgent leaps into nostalgia porn, there are those who think that they tell of a wider socio-cultural phenomenon: for instance, our fatigue with the technologically driven, fast-paced, 7-Eleven-dominated world we’re in. Take stars, for example. In a sleepless metropolis lorded over by skyscrapers, cars, and other light-generating things that keep society up and running, we can’t exactly see the stars. Scientifically, it’s called excessive light pollution— or you can wax philosophical about man-made light obscuring the world beyond. Nonetheless, seeing skies filled with stars is simply nice and inspiring—after all, it provides the perfect counter-metaphor to a city that never sleeps. Outside the metropolis, J. M. Barrie’s millenial descendants may blog of a thousand other Neverlands, modern-day bards may weave verses in 145 characters, and Van Gogh fanatics would Instagram their digital art—as photographers Aaron Palabyab, Enzo Cruz, Paolo Cuarteron, and Angelo Mendoza did, proving that the age of screens isn’t entirely devoid of regrammable enchantment. Some of us staying in the city can still scroll through our feeds and wish upon the stars.

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FEAT URE

AARON PALABYAB @apalabyab

“This was shot on Magalawa Island in Zambales last January. It was the product of excusing myself from drinks and venturing out alone past midnight with my camera. If you live in Manila and don’t get to travel much, you don’t realize how disconnected from nature you’ve become.”

ENZO CRUZ @iamenzocruz

“The very first time I captured and saw the Milky Way with my own eyes was in Lake Tabeo in Kabayan, Benguet. You look up and you see infinite possibilities. When you wake up the next day, you’re ready to do everything all over again.”

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FEAT URE

ANGELO MENDOZA @angelomendo

“I told myself I’d get this shot when I came back to Botolan, Zambales. The howling wind combined with the darkness, however, was slightly discouraging and I almost didn’t climb the roof of the broken tractor. . . but I did, and I’m more than happy about it."

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FEAT URE

PAOLO CUARTERON @paocua

“We were on an 11-day trip around Region 8. One of our stops was Kalanggaman Island. After having our packed dinner, we laid our malongs on the sandbar and got comfortable as we were about to witness stars dance across the sky. It was timely as that night was the peak of the Leonid meteor shower.”

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EATS Strawberry Cheesecake, Grilled Watermelon and Peach Salad, Chicken Peri Peri, and the Lamb Burger Munchies.

MORE THAN MOUTHS TO FEED

A dining destination where minimal design and hefty servings of American comfort food meet TEXT LEX CELERA PHOTOGRAPHY ARTU NEPOMUCENO

The space is a bit on the narrow side—the place can seat two dozen at full capacity. Currently open from four in the afternoon until a little past midnight, Spoon would be almost inconspicuous if not for the sign outside. Owner Philane Ponio says that in gentrified neighborhoods in New York, aging buildings with craggy, faded exteriors have surprises in the form of tiny yet polished restaurants operating on a modest budget. This new breed of restaurants is the new kind of mom-and-pop store defined by multicultural culinary influences, a penchant for the organic, and owners who don’t go by the book in business. We can see the parallels with one step inside Spoon. The walls are bare concrete and what would otherwise be a low ceiling is an elevated headroom, with sunlight seeping through the sunroof. The

balcony, a bit hot in the afternoon, gives a relaxing view of Aguirre Avenue at night. The food selection can be found on the menu or on the mirror near the balcony, where specials and promos are listed. The light mouthfeel of the Grilled Watermelon and Peach Salad, dressed with sherry vinegar, comes from the delicately crunchy but still watery texture of the watermelon and peach. If meat appetizers are more up your alley, try the Bacon-Wrapped Vegetables—cherry tomatoes and mushrooms surrounded by a coil of bacon with a side of dill pickle relish. For the main course, try the Chicken Peri Peri, where Spoon’s love affair with spices is evident. The marinade is a curious arrangement of lemon peel, parsley, and oregano, and the slaw comes with your choice of garlicky mustard dressing, creamy herb, or Sriracha lime. If you’re dining with friends,

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the Lamb Burger Munchies are a good bet. The homemade tzatziki balances out the juiciness of the lamb patty. Add a little bit of slaw for a tangier zing. So why the name? Ponio offers two explanations. One is a longwinded rumination on what a spoon represents: for feeding oneself, and also for sharing with others. The original is much more humorous. In a scene from the movie Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, the Sheriff of Nottingham, played by Alan Rickman, vows to cut Robins Hood’s heart out with a spoon. Ponio loves that scene, to say the least. It’s safe to say that Spoon is born out of a collection of experiences that made an impact: a dream vacation visiting the various boroughs of New York, a visit to Napa Valley rife with numerous spices, and memories of cooking for friends and family at home.


EATS Clockwise from right: Craftsmith Living married industrial and wood elements for Spoon’s interiors; Sunlight peers through the transparent roof that sits above the outdoor balcony; The Bacon Wrapped Vegetables hold a plate of cherry tomatoes and oyster mushrooms encased in a strip of bacon.

Spoon Eat + Drink. Unit 1A, Aguirre Ave., BF Homes, ParaĂąaque City. 738-0085. www.facebook.com/spooneatdrink.

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EATS Kingfish Ceviche with Wasabi Soba, Kamias, Soy Caramel, and Chicken Skin; Textures of Chocolate and Coffee.

EARTH TO SOMEONE

A casual fine dining restaurant honors the origin of food TEXT LEX CELERA PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA

Soil’s menu is divided into starters (“To Start”), desserts (“To Finish), and the terrain where the dish’s main ingredient is found (“Sea,” “Field,” and “Farm”), accompanied by a modest list of beverages that includes local craft beers as well as impressive imported types (Estrella Damm Inedit by Ferran Adrià and Peroni from Italy). Every dish on the menu is a creation of chef Lorenzo Pimentel, who co-owns the restaurant with his brother Iñigo Pimentel. The dishes aren’t your typical fare; they explore new and unexpected combinations and tastes. The Textures of Chocolate and Coffee dessert is a play on the mouthfeel of different chocolate and coffee flavors. The Cucumber Soup with Quinoa Salad, Salmon, and Garlic is served cold. The Crispy Baby Squid with Chorizo Ketchup, Coriander, and Lime takes the usual deep-fried squid a step further with the tanginess of

the chorizo ketchup. Each dish is chef Lorenzo’s own recipe, tested by family and friends before being added to the menu. But come April, the menu will change depending on what’s available and fresh in the market, and will continue to change every three months. According to Lorenzo, there will be weekly specials based on what he finds at the local market during his morning supply run. A tedious task it is—not only to formulate dishes based on what’s available, but also to consistently prepare those dishes—but Lorenzo is a seasoned chef who spent the better part of his years working in various kitchens in New York. Inside the restaurant, there is a large mural of a fisherman and a farmer that’s visible from both the upper deck and the open kitchen below, among the wood and metal elements that make up Soil’s interior.

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It appears to be out of place. But there’s a curious story behind why the mural is there, and who the figures in the mural are. “Our family wanted to make this restaurant a tribute to our grandfathers as our guiding light in this venture,” Iñigo explains. “Soil is our first family business and actually, some of the capital placed into this came from them through the selling of my father’s ancestral home.” At Soil, paying homage to the source of our food takes on several layered meanings. There’s paying homage to the seafaring and earthwandering workers who care for our ingredients: our farmers and fishermen. There’s paying homage to those who work for food to be set on the table and to feed their loved ones: parents and guardians who toil every day. By dining at this fine farm-totable restaurant, we fulfil the last layer of meaning: paying homage to the people who prepare our food.


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EATS Clockwise from left: Wood and metal elements define the motif of Soil’s interiors; Roasted Beetroot, Beef Tongue with Homemade Carabao Curd, Pine Nut, and Blueberries; Crispy Baby Squid with Chorizo Ketchup, Coriander, and Lime.

Soil. Unit 16, Molito Lifestyle Building, Madrigal Ave. cor. Alabang-Zapote Road, Alabang. 802-2792. www.facebook.com/soilrestaurant.

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RECIPE

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RECIPE

NO MEAT

Portobello mushrooms get the Sunday roast treatment TEXT, STYLING, AND PHOTOGRAPHY SAM LIM

ROASTED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH SPINACH, SWEET CORN, AND RED ONIONS

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 tbsp. honey 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil Rock salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 Portobello mushrooms, stems removed 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 3 cups of spinach 2 cups of sweet corn kernels 1 cup alfalfa sprouts (garnish) 1/2 cup leeks, julienned (garnish)

PREPARATION

1. In a bowl, combine red wine vinegar, honey, and olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Marinate the mushrooms in the vinaigrette mixture at room temperature for at least 1 hour, turning occasionally. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Roast mushrooms, flipping once, until tender for about 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a non-stick pan, add olive oil and sauté garlic, red onions, corn, pepper flakes, and spinach until soft. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4. Top roasted mushrooms with the spinach mixture, garnish with deep fried spinach leaves, alfalfa sprouts, and leeks. Serve immediately.

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T HE GET

GRECIAN STEPS

Handmade sandals bring Athens to your feet TEXT RENZ NOLLASE

The hotter summer days have sandals and flip-flops roaming the streets once again. Along with sunblock and beach towels, light and comfortable footwear is a necessary addition to your summer packing list. But while they’re comfortable and practical, they don’t necessarily make a statement. For footwear that’s more than just an afterthought, Love, Candypie has flown in handmade strappy numbers from Greece to add some spice to your summer wardrobe. Elina Linardaki had Moroccan spice markets, outdoor music festivals, and psychedelic Beatles music in mind when she designed these line of sandals. Tassels, semi-precious stones, and intricate beadwork elevate the humble footwear into a statement piece you’d be happy to style your wardrobe around. While digging your toes in the sand is a must when you’re on the beach, for everywhere else-at the pier or at the next weekend market-lace up these Elina Linardaki sandals and let the appeal of the Mediterranean add a bit more spring to your step.

Available at Love, Candypie. 2F MDI Corporate Center, 10th Ave. cor. 39th St., Bonifacio Global City. 815-7510.

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