Southern Living: 2016 December

December 2016 Volume 11 | Issue 04

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BEYOND THE LENS The enduring (if transforming) tradition of family portraits TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR ILLUSTRATION DANICA CONDEZ

Seasoned portraitist Sara Black believes that technology has irrevocably molded civilization, with photography as one of its most radical agents. “People now prefer to take their own pictures, even just with their phones, to post them then tag each other online and be connected that way,” she says.

Somehow, the practice of getting family studio portraits taken, especially during the Christmas season, now feels about as quaint as an old, tattered, sepia photograph. In her 13 years as a lensman, Black says she sees less and less families partaking in the tradition because photography has become so accessible.

Photographer and videographer Tammy David agrees. With more user-friendly equipment, people are now more tech-savvy and develop photography skills on their own. Even the once ardent Westerners, who are fond of the traditional family portraits, are veering away from the practice. By the least, they would rather resort to sending e-cards, David says.

She recalls that, as a kid, relatives who were based in the States would send Christmas cards with family photos included, everyone in the picture wearing matching sweaters with their Sunday's best. These days, even David’s own family no longer conforms. She says they

would just rely on the camera’s self-timer function and simply print the photos. Reminiscing the good old days, David recalls “when I was younger, family portraits were important so I have something to show for assignments in school. I like looking back on how my family used to spend Christmas together even when I was an angsty, unattractive teenager. Christmas portraits are always good for remembrance.”

But she says there are still a few families that deviate.

Professionally-taken holiday portraits haven’t become obsolete, thanks in part to the Kardashians who ostentatiously persist with the tradition. Fans await their annual Kardashian Kristmas Kard, which they’ve been releasing since the late ’80s and serves as a visual marker for how the clan grew.

In hindsight, David says traditions seem to have changed on the surface level but their essence stays.

“Enough with the white shirt, blue jeans, and barefoot look, but if families are happy to see themselves portrayed that way, or in complete formal wear with hats, then great. [The bottom line is,] Christmas portraits are always good for remembrance.”

Photographer Janine Uy, who specializes in newborn, family, and boudoir shoots, also says family portraits are still popular especially during the -ber months. Working behind the camera, she sees the importance of this tradition. “I wish all families make it a point to have their photographs taken. Photographs are forever, and you will want to have something to look back on years from now—something to show how your family has grown and changed through the years.”

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CAKE BOSS Behind a long-standing cake business is a woman who revels in the sweetness of simplicity TEXT SAM FERNANDEZ PHOTOGRAPHY JILSON SECKLER TIU

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From top: Pasteleria Costa Brava ventures into savory creations with the chicken and mushroom pie; Juda Liu downplays the sweetness of the cakes with natural and organic coconut sweetener.

It’s been a few decades and a couple of features since Pasteleria Costa Brava’s cakes entered the local canon of Christmas staples. Inquirer Lifestyle included them in their 2014 book of Best Desserts. One local food website touted their caramel cake as “the best in the metro.” Juda Liu, owner of the decades-old business, simply calls it a “no-nonsense cake. No frills. It’s just a cake.”

At 70 and dividing her time between prayer groups, value formation classes, and book clubs, Liu bakes in her home alongside a small staff of roughly 10, some of whom have been with her since the business began 40 years ago. “They’re already grandparents, too,” she says.

“Even their children work with us.”

Costa Brava wasn’t always a name associated with what is debatably Manila’s most sought-after caramel cake. In the ’70s, it was a Mediterranean and Spanish restaurant helmed by Liu’s mother, who was the daughter of a French consul. “My mom was more into cooking than baking.

She could just whip up anything, and it always turned out good. She never compromised on ingredients,” says Liu. But during the martial law era, when the unsteady political climate made it impossible to import quality ingredients, the restaurant closed down. Her home-based baking business, however, which began in the early ’70s, continued to serve its loyal clientele, up to this day.

“All of my aunts and uncles loved to cook. Most of the time, for reunions, we do pot luck. We bring whatever we whip up.” While travels and cooking classes certainly inspired her recipes, Liu cites her family as her greatest influence: her mother’s mastery of international cuisine; holiday noche buenas and their abundance of turkey, paella, and engaña de bobo; and her childhood favorite lengua de gato, the humble delicacy her family would buy from a Spanish bakeshop in Ermita that had closed down years ago.

However, the business, which has enjoyed considerable longevity, is not without its pitfalls. Some have remarked on the cake’s unpretentious simplicity, yet it’s apparent modesty is as much the source of its most common criticism as it is its greatest virtue. Costa Brava’s lack of affinity for frills allows both the baker and the customer to focus on the cake’s substance. “It’s always freshly baked; I use no preservatives. And there’s no secret. I just use the best ingredients I can find here and abroad,” says Liu. Taking inspiration from her travels, even if it’s just a family day trip to Tagaytay, she culls simple quality ingredients like fruits and ube jam and incorporates them to her growing list of cakes: the famous caramel, ube, and mocha, as well as fruit cakes and food for the gods for the holidays. Next year, she’ll be launching more savory creations like the chicken and mushroom pie she introduced earlier this year.

Patrons have, for years, considered the lightness and delicacy of Costa Brava’s cakes as their main attractions, and the few who know the owner understand that the cakes reflect their maker: no frills, simple, yet substantial.

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“It’s always freshly baked; I use no preservatives.

And there’s no secret.”

MAKEUP JOAN TEOTICO

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M ARKET

FIT FOR A QUEEN Fuss-free holiday indulgences to bring for gatherings ahead PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA

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1. Lamb prosciutto, price available upon request, Josh Boutwood, www.instagram.com/joshboutwood.

2. Paella MontaĂąa with portobello mushroom, whole roasted garlic, asparagus, truffle oil, P995 (good for 4 pax), Cirkulo, 810-8375, www.elcirkulo.com.

3. Crispy roast pork belly, P4,500 (good for 8-12 pax), A Table by Dulce Magat-Gibb, 0917-8621800.

4. Cerveza Negra chocolate cake, P1,200 (9" cake), Hiraya Bakery, 0915-5290250.

5. Salted dulce de leche alfajores, P180 (pack of 5), Hiraya Bakery, 0915-5290250.

6. Phyllo cheese pie, P4,100 (good for 9-18 pax), A Table by Dulce Magat-Gibb, 0917-8621800.

7. Jamon Bellota, P734 (handcut, per 80 grams), Txanton, www.txanton.com.ph.

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WARM WELCOME

Clockwise from top: Vicky Sales and Rita Nazareno uphold the legacy of S.C. Vizcarra; Sales collects antiques such as the wooden table and intricate ornaments done by local craftsmen; Nazareno’s bags from Zacarias 1925 takes inspiration from contemporary art and architecture.

There’s endless merrymaking at the S.C. Vizcarra matriarch’s home this time of the year TEXT SAM FERNANDEZ PHOTOGRAGPHY MIGUEL NACIANCENO

Vicky Sales, animated host and heir to the legacy of accessories label S.C. Vizcarra, presides over the dining table at noon, serving kakanin, cakes, and coffee that never seem to run out. “We were living in One Roxas Triangle for 15 years—then our grandchildren started to grow. The unit became pretty small for us,” she recalls. The growth spurt prompted the family to move into a half-a-century-old residence, which has since been refurbished into an elderly couple’s ideal home.

Standing on a quiet street in an inconspicuous part of Parañaque, the house had been owned by a German designer in the 1950s. It was run-down until Sales’ son, architect Anthony Nazareno, redid the place, complete

with an elevator, a spa, and a ryokan, and pioneer floral designer Toni Parsons remade the garden. It is now meant as a gathering place for her friends, children, and 11 growing granddaughters.

“After mass, every Sunday, we have a feast,” she shares. “It’s the only time that the family is together. We used to prepare only lunch, but because they stay long enough, we don’t leave the table. We just continue on with our merienda that lasts until dinnertime.”

This year, Sales’ daughter Rita Nazareno, who’s also the creator of the more contemporary bag line Zacarias 1925, has moved back in. After living independently for years in the States, in a Syquia apartment in Malate,

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SPACE SPACE

and in Salcedo Village, Nazareno now sleeps on a tiny bunk bed in the kids’ room whenever the guest room is occupied. “She has nowhere else to stay!” quips Sales. “I didn’t even ask [to move back in],” says Nazareno, “but no one says no to mom.”

Nazareno’s and Sales’ differing aesthetic sensibilities—evident in the classic designs of S.C. Vizcarra versus the more contemporary look of Zacarias 1925—become apparent in the myriad decorations of the house. More conceptual artwork culled from local galleries populate the second floor while Sales’ classic decorative pieces show intricate woodwork by local craftsmen. One of them was a piece of wood on which detailed religious images were painstakingly carved. “My personal collection has always been antique pieces,” she says.

Her collection has since grown to include newer types of art and décor. “I think it’s because mom really opens her house,” says Nazareno. “There are friends of mine that she gets to know, like Yeyey Cruz of the

Museum of Contemporary Art and Design, or Angel Shaw, who’s going here tomorrow.”

While the home’s art and furniture depict their differing characters, the Christmas décor is another story altogether. It is as outrageous as it gets, from a tree that was hung from the ceiling one Christmas to this year’s theme of “lanzones! We have gold lanzones, I’m serious,” says Nazareno. “At the last Manila Fame, we had a booth. Mom was there for five minutes, then she was shopping decorations for next year. She’s serious with her decorations.”

Sales puts up Christmas ornaments as early as October. “[That way, there’s] more time to enjoy Christmas,” she explains. With extended family and friends coming over after hearing Christmas mass, holiday mealtimes take hours and the long, wooden dining table becomes a stage for a long lunch rendezvous that extends until dinnertime. “Everybody talks at the same time but everybody understands what the other says.”

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Artwork with religious undertones characterize the collections of Vicky Sales while Rita Nazareno leans toward contemporary art like the paintings of Nazareno’s long-time friend, Patty Eustaquio.

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HOLIDAY STARTER

Wool shorts, Carl John Cruz.

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Along with ham and pancakes, gingerbread cookies are a holiday staple in the Howell-Fanlo household prepared

by Nadine.

A Christmas narrative according to Nadine Howell-Fanlo TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING PHOTOGRAPHY RALPH MENDOZA

Nadine Howell-Fanlo ushers us into her little home in Makati. Here, in one corner, Button the bunny sits still in her cage. In another, Jerry the hedgehog buries himself with pieces of cardboard, hiding from the light or, maybe, from us. On every wall, there are paintings, mostly of dogs. Howell-Fanlo’s favorite is one by Bree Johnson of a dog seeming to wrestle with an ambiguous figure. “It could mean so many things. It could be you overcoming your demons,” she interprets. It hangs in the kitchen where the faint aroma of freshly-baked gingerbread cookies fills the air. “I served them to my husband Jaime Fanlo.

He took a bite and teared up. He was like, ‘this just reminds me so much of my childhood.’”

Howell-Fanlo’s holiday schedule is already pretty filled. “Work is what we’ve really been focusing on, especially during the holidays. We really ramp up production during this time.” The day after our interview, she flies to Hong Kong with her husband and their business partner Jill Borja to bring Pedro Craft Beer to participate in Hong Kong Beertopia, the festival that had inspired the three of them to make their own brew. “We went to the craft beer festival and we saw hundreds of craft beer from all over the world but none from the Philippines,” Howell-Fanlo recalls, proudly stating that Pedro is

the first participant from the Philippines. “It’s called an India Pale Ale. It’s going to be a beer style that craft drinkers will really look for: a lot bitterer, with higher alcohol content. A flavor bomb, for sure,” Howell-Fanlo says of their new product. Though her husband was the one who studied at the American Brewers Guild to learn the ropes of beer-making, she also knows the science behind the drink well enough. At times, she even surprises him with her knowledge. As it turns out, the woman of the house has been paying attention to the classes, which were mostly held online.

Asked what’s behind the name of their craft beer brand, Howell-Fanlo admits that they named it after San Pedro, Laguna. Pedro is a namesake of Borja’s grandfather, a beer lover. “He would have a bottle of beer every morning just to start his day without any stress.” Soon after, it became an homage to his “stress-free” life.“When we found that out, we thought that was our life goal, too. This speaks so much to us because we’re doing the same thing. We’re pursuing our passion, and the dude who inspired us is on our label.”

Beyond her affair with beer, a quick scroll through her Instagram feed reveals that Howell-Fanlo has an undeniable passion for food “since I started

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“As a host, my wants came second. It was really about making people feel at home where I was at home already.”

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COV ER STORY Rings by Nami.ph

STYLING KAREN BOLILIA MAKEUP JOAN TEOTICO HAIR BULLET REYES

Nadine HowellFanlo admits she prefers black and white paintings.

One side of the wall of their home is filled with paintings of dogs in black and white.

Top and shorts, both Carl John Cruz.

eating, really.” Aside from having a diploma in culinary arts, she’s surrounded by people who love food as much as she does. “My mom is a really good cook and there’s nothing like your own mother’s cooking,” she says. Howell-Fanlo also culls inspiration from her husband’s grandmother; search for #ComidaEnCasaFanlo, and you'll find dishes by the Fanlo matriarch. “She makes so many things like churros from scratch. Her leche flan is so good. Then there’s this baked chicken that [tastes] like sinigang but is baked chicken,” Howell-Fanlo enumerates, a big smile on her face.

“It’s a lot of scheduling,” she says about Christmas.

“It’s kind of tough because I want to be able to celebrate all the traditions that I had celebrated even before I got married. We’re pretty lucky to have our holiday activities so well-incorporated.” The way the couple celebrates is pretty simple. “We don’t really do noche buena. Instead, on Christmas Day we have a huge breakfast. We always have pancakes or waffles, and then Christmas ham. Those are must-haves.”

After breakfast, they proceed to her parents’ home.

The Fanlo side, meanwhile, celebrates Christmas on Dec. 24. “From them, what we’ve adopted into our own holiday celebrations are all the Spanish cuts that I love so much like jamon, chorizo, and turon.

There’s just so much eating.”

Before Pedro, Howell-Fanlo worked as front of

the house for a restaurant in BGC for five years.“I never found my way to the kitchen. I figured that I really, really enjoyed talking to people. It’s nice to make people happy,” she admits. “The number one thing was the attention I gave to what people want. As a host, my wants came second. It was really about making people feel at home where I was at home already. Good food and whatever I served them really mattered.”

With still no gifts under the Howell-Fanlo Christmas tree, we ask her if there’s anything she’d like to receive. The silence as she contemplates her answer is occasionally broken by “hmmms” and giggles. With the attention of everyone in the room on her, she finally answers, “I don’t know. I’m all about experience. That’s what I value the most.”

When she was much younger, she would often lie down under the family Christmas tree and gaze at the ornaments. Here, now in her own home, there’s nothing much unique to look at when it comes to holiday décor except for a lone Stormtrooper figure hanging nonchalantly on a branch. Suddenly, the stillness of the spot underneath the Christmas tree feels like a cause for revelry. “On a daily basis, it’s hard to stop and take the time to collect your thoughts.

That’s what we like to do [during Christmas].” For Howell-Fanlo, “that’s the wonderful thing about the holidays.”

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COV ER STORY

“I’m all about experience.

That’s what I value the most.”

Top, Carl John Cruz. Rings, Nami.ph.

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S

EATS Girl + The Bull’s River Prawn Roll with Pink Peppercorns atop blackened bread; Doughnuts with Citrus Sugar and Lavender Cream.

THE COMEBACK KID

A southern favorite grows up for good TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA

After The Girl + The Bull’s resounding success, achieved within just two years of operations in Aguirre, owners Gab Bustos and Thea De Rivera put their focus elsewhere for a year. They had another venture to look after at the time: 12/10, a Japanese izakaya along Guijo Street in Makati.

With their first restaurant business re-opening last October, the couple kept its comeback on the downlow. The Girl + The Bull’s new spot in Legazpi Village is nondescript, tucked behind an upscale building with no flashy signage.

The high ceiling and mezzanine bar establish a more refined setting. A series of artwork is also on display, reflecting the aesthetic the owners are after.

Bustos overhauled The Girl + The Bull’s old menu, retaining only two of the house favorites—the Fried Chicken and Brioche French Toast with Balsamic Maple and the Faux Twix — so he can use his recent culinary learning to cater to a wider market. “When we started, the menu featured a bunch of classics because those were all I knew how to do. Coming here, we’re using the experiences we had at 12/10,” he says. De Rivera adds, “we believe in always learning and presenting something fresh and new. In terms of

Gab’s craft, he puts forward what he thinks is the best version of everything.”

The result is a selection of elevated comfort food.

For starters, there is the Blue Crab in Alugbati Leaf, Mussel, and Egg Yolk, a medley of greens and seafood in every bite. Another unique entrée is the River Prawn Roll with Pink Peppercorns and Herbs. Its base is a blackened, chewy bun, and the prawn’s fishy aftertaste is kept to a minimum. For dessert, Bustos is still laboriously perfecting his Doughnuts with Citrus Sugar and Lavender Cream. Each serving comes with two donuts, purposely reminiscent of Homer Simpson’s favorite snack, and are laced with the taste of citrus.

While Bustos oversees the food selection, De Rivera manages the front of the house and is often preoccupied with administrative work. The aspiring sommelier is also pushing for the restaurant to be more wine-forward in hopes of debunking the common notion that beverages are secondary to food.

The Girl + The Bull has also established a partnership with Habitual Coffee, serving the café’s brews. Now using Kalsada beans sourced from Benguet, De Rivera stays true to their new philosophy of going deep into the roots of the ingredients.

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EATS

Fried Chicken and Brioche French Toast with Balsamic Maple; A glass of 2013 California Sauvignon Blanc; Pastel colors dominate the more refined interiors of the restaurant. The focal artwork is

by Everywhere We Shoot.

The Girl + The Bull. G-10 G/F The Grand Midori, Legaspi Village, Makati City.

0905-5722556. www.facebook.com/thegirlandthebull.

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RECIPE

WHITE CHRISTMAS A vanilla sponge cake can only get better with cheese TEXT AND STYLING CHARLIE CARBUNGCO PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA

SNOW CHEDDAR CAKE INGREDIENTS

For the sponge cake 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 1/2 tsp. baking powder 3 tbsp. vegetable oil 8 egg yolks 3/4 cup water 1 tbsp. vanilla 8 egg whites 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar 1/2 cup sugar For the cream cheese frosting 9 oz. cream cheese 6 tbsp. butter 1/4 cup condensed milk 4 tbsp. powdered sugar

PREPARATION

1. Preheat oven to 150°C. 2. Sift flour, salt, sugar, and baking powder into a mixer. Mix using the paddle attachment set to medium speed. While mixing, gradually add oil, egg yolks, water, and vanilla in a slow, steady stream until the mixture becomes smooth. Set aside.

3. Mix egg whites until soft peaks form. Add cream of tartar and sugar little by little while still mixing the egg whites in medium speed. Whip until the mixture becomes firm and forms moist peaks.

4. Fold in the whipped egg whites into the flour mixture.

5. Pour the batter into circular baking pan.

6. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes.

7. In a mixer, mix the cream cheese and butter until smooth and creamy.

Add the condensed milk and powdered sugar until the mixture becomes even. Keep in the fridge and let it set.

8. Once baked, slice the sponge cake in half. Spread cream cheese frosting on both layers. Add more frosting at the top and sides then garnish with loads of cheddar cheese.

For garnish Grated cheddar cheese

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