January 2017 Volume 11 | Issue 05
UNCOMMON GROUND
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CONT ENTS 12 COVER STORY A trio celebrates heritage through fashion
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SOUTHERNER
A tattooer lives a cruelty-free life
Cover photo by Joseph Pascual 23 EATS Gourmet dishes made nice
JANUARY 2017 04 FIXTURE Household items that are apparently harmful
26 RECIPE Fruity and nutty power bar
06 HEALTH Natural agents that fight off stress
28 THE GET Abaca and canvas slides
EDITOR’S NOTE Learning curve “History doesn�t repeat itself, but it does rhyme,” Mark Twain once said. The past year sounded way too familiar, like a classic song put on loop you can’t help bobbing your head to. Man has always had a serious case of selective amnesia, where instead of learning from mistakes and changing for the better, he falls into the same traps his forefathers failed to. It’s true, we shouldn’t dwell on the past. Sometimes, it’s really about moving on. But moving on doesn’t mean forgetting. And this isn’t just about history: the resurgence of past crafts and traditions
has also abuzzed. “There is a newfound admiration for artistry, especially from our generation. We like things that are unique and tell a story,” says entrepreneur Paloma Urquijo Zobel. There’s a reason why certain customs work and some progressive techniques do more harm than help. Then there are those who are heading back to the hills and seasides to relearn the most basic ways of living. In this issue, we discuss about the forgotten health benefits of adaptogens, point out household items that can do more harm than good, and many more.
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HOMECOMING
GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA MANAGING EDITOR DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR, OLIVER EMOCLING ONLINE ASSOCIATE EDITOR PAULINE MIRANDA CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIMU MUALLAM GRAPHIC ARTIST DANICA CONDEZ STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER PATRICK SEGOVIA INTERN IANNE VILLANUEVA
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CONTRIBUTORS WRITER CHARLIE CARBUNGCO ILLUSTRATOR TRISTAN TAMAYO PHOTOGRAPHERS ARTU NEPOMUCENO, JOSEPH PASCUAL HAIR AND MAKEUP RIA AQUINO, JET BABAS, APPLE FARAON, BULLET REYES, ROMEO SAMELLANO STYLISTS CHARLIE CARBUNGCO, MEG MANZANO, CARLA VILLANUEVA COPY EDITOR SEPTEMBER GRACE MAHINO PROOFREADER ERIC NICOLE SALTA EDITORIAL CONSULTANT RIA FRANCISCO-PRIETO
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FIXT URE
CONSUMPTION CAVEATS Be more wary of the items you usually buy
TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR ILLUSTRATION TRISTAN TAMAYO
Some of the household products we use on a regular basis might be causing more harm than good to our health and the ecosystem. In choosing home products, it�s best to stay vigilant about what we use on our bodies and in our houses, about what we should keep and what we should replace.
Perfumes Chemicals commonly used in perfumes are found to contain toxins such as acetone, ethanol, and methylene chloride, among many others. Their effects range from the simplest allergic reactions, dizziness, and headache
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to central nervous system disorders, kidney damage, and respiratory failure. Better alternative: Natural perfumes made from essential oils, vegetable carrier oil like olive or coconut oil, distilled water, and grain alcohol.
FIXT URE
Toothpaste Imagine having to brush your teeth twice a day with something carcinogenic. Some toothpaste formulas contain triclosan, an antibacterial chemical that affects the endocrine system, which can lead to various types of cancer: breast, ovarian, prostate, and testicular. Marine life is also imperiled when formulations that contain microbeads are washed down the sink, as these minuscule plastic beads are non-biodegradable and end up polluting our waterways. Better alternative: Baking soda is effective at removing plaque. Simply dissolve it in water to create a paste then use it to brush teeth normally. Disposable batteries Batteries are comprised of different elements that pose threat to human health: Cadmium and nickel can cause cancer while lead is associated with birth defects and brain damage. As waste products, batteries amass in landfills, and their toxins can seep into our water supply. The lithium content of batteries can also spark a landfill fire, which can burn underground for years. Better alternative: Aluminum-ion batteries that are rechargeable. They contain aluminum anode instead of lithium, which is safer to use.
Wet wipes Wet wipes wreak havoc in the environment much like plastic bags. They are made from plastic linen, which does not decompose, so they end up clogging our sewage systems and, consequently, accumulate in the ocean. Sea
turtles often mistake wet wipes for jellyfish, which leads them to ingest the wipes and suffer from starvation and even death. Better alternative: Homemade wipes made out of flannel cloth and dipped in a solution of boiled water, olive oil, and Castile soap.
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Adaptogens in raw form that can be used for steeping are commonly available in traditional Chinese apothecaries in Binondo. On the other hand, commercial pharmacies also carry adaptogens as food supplements in capsule form.
HEALT HEALT H H
NATURE’S WAY
Rustic measures to help the body cope TEXT OLIVER EMOCLING ILLUSTRATION DANICA CONDEZ
Stress is integral to our survival but it has gotten to a point where anything we do can potentially trigger it. A late night at work, a peek into a crowded planner, even just clicking on a link on social media can all be reasons to feel stressed. Good thing nature has been kind enough to provide us adaptogens that help our bodies regenerate. The concept of adaptogens is not entirely new. Long before they were considered as such, the herbs that we now call adaptogens have been greatly used in traditional medicine across various cultures, from Chinese and Ayurvedic to Native American. In Hindu, holy basil is hailed as “The Incomparable One” and is associated with the goddess Lakshmi, wife of Vishnu. Traditional Chinese medicine, meanwhile, uses an herb called astragalus root—Huang Qi in Chinese translates to “yellow senior” in English—to warm the muscles and normalize sweating. Similar to how astragalus root is used in Chinese medicine, adaptogens are not prescribed as a cure to diseases. Instead, they increase the body�s ability to adapt and fight against stress-induced or psychosomatic illnesses and fatigue. Adaptogens work on a cellular level. They regulate properties that increase the body�s resistance to stress and promote balance, such as the production of various proteins that protect the cells from stress-induced damage. While there�s an array of substances used in herbal medicine, not every herb can act as an adaptogen.
In a study conducted in 1958, Russian doctors Israel Brekhman and Igor Dardymov identified adaptogens as “innocuous, and cause minimal disorders in the physiological functions of an organism. [They] must have a nonspecific action, and [they] usually [have] a normalizing action irrespective of the direction of the pathological state.” Whether an herb should be considered an adaptogen is subject to further research, but numerous herbs have been proven to perform as one. In Ayurveda, the Ashwagandha root is a prized Rasayana or rejuvenative that is traditionally used to combat anxiety and exhaustion. It�s also used to remedy insomnia and bad dreams. Ginseng, meanwhile, is a stimulating adaptogen traditionally used in Chinese medicine to replenish the qi or energy flow by alleviating fatigue, back pain, and even erectile dysfunction. Licorice is one of the most versatile adaptogens: It works as an anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antihistamine, and anti-viral remedy, strengthening cells against autoimmune disorders and immune deficiency conditions like cancer and HIV. Adaptogens may be taken as tea or tincture, depending on the prescribed amount. Although they occur naturally, it�s still advised to consult a doctor before using them as overdosage may result in adverse effects. Adaptogens are a reminder that while humanity keeps on moving towards modernization, the power of nature remains undeniable.
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SOUT HERNER
WRIT IN VEGAN INK Tattoo artist and staunch vegetarian Wiji Lacsamana champions a cruelty-free lifestyle TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
What was just a regular night some years ago turned out to be life-changing for Wiji Lacsamana: Somewhere in the haze of inebriated laughter among good friends, she found her fervor for tattooing. “I was at a friend�s birthday party, and he invited all of us to go to an old tattoo shop down the street. He wanted us to tattoo him on his birthday,” she recalls. “That night, drunkenly, I tattooed him.”
She couldn�t shake off what sounds as a typical story of drunken adventure; the following morning, the experience lingered in her mind. “I fell in love with tattooing right off,” she says, and soon after, she sought apprenticeship under a friend who had done her first tattoo. In the past eight years of working as a tattoo artist, Lacsamana got to differentiate it from painting, another art form close to her heart. “With tattooing, your canvas is moving and breathing, and the skin is elastic like rubber. You can draw a straight line on paper, but it�s the hardest thing to draw on skin,” she describes. “Second, you have to master the depth of your needles and the blending of colors. It�s different for every part of the body; you have to arrange your needles a different way.”
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SOUT HERNER Wiji Lacsamana in her home workspace, The Curious Studio, where she conducts tattooing sessions.
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SOUT HERNER
HAIR AND MAKEUP BULLET REYES
Spending her formative years by the beaches of La for rescue animals and an incubating space for flourishing Union, Lacsamana has always been inspired by nature. This art. Despite being the sole vegetarian in the family, she says is reflected on her tattoo designs, which are often vibrant there is still harmony at home. “It�s not hard; the worst with soft, watercolor hues and are hardly ever centered on way to convince people to be vegetarian is to blabber to cityscapes. Clients come to her for happy tattoos, she says. them about it. I respect other people�s path. If they�re In the same year she fell captive to tattooing, Lacsamana not inclined [to vegetarianism], that doesn�t necessarily also started on the vegetarian path. A video from PETA make them bad people. Like my husband: I love him so turned her off from the food much but he is such a meatchain she used to succumb to. eater,” Lacsamana says with a “If they’re not inclined [to “That was the year I felt that chuckle. maybe I was prepared for this. She pushes her advocacy vegetarianism], that doesn’t At first, I told myself to try further by working with becoming a vegetarian for just make them bad people. Like my Save Philippine Seas, an a week, but when that passed, movement husband: I love him so much but independent I still felt pretty good so I that aims to protect the continued,” she says. country�s marine wildlife. She he is such a meat-eater.” Lacsamana does not only voluntarily renders her service practice the vegetarian lifestyle in the best medium she can by through her food choices alone; as a tattoo artist, she also providing branding collaterals. uses vegan ink, which has the same kind of pigments as These days, apart from feeling lighter, courtesy of her ordinary ones sans the animal fat that binds them together. meat-free diet, Lacsamana gets more elated than nervous She also sells all-natural and homemade candles, makeup every time she starts working on a tattoo. She sees it as products, and perfumes on radioactivemushrooms.com. a privilege. “How does one pick someone else to put These “cruelty-free items,” are made from soy wax and something on them [permanently]? I�m obviously not the best tattoo artist there is, but I establish a relationship with essential oils infused with flowers. The Lacsamana household is also humane, both a refuge my customers and I take care of that.”
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COV ER STORY
NESTING INSTINCTS The young team behind Piopio sees a way in the future for the traditional and the treasured TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY JOSEPH PASCUAL
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“There is a new found admiration for artistry, especially from our generation. We like things that are unique and tell a story.”
Late last year, a new fashion line celebrating Filipino artistry and ingenuity was launched at the annual Designers� Holiday Bazaar in Greenbelt 5. A teepee was set up on the steps of the Gallery, and among the usual bed linens and blankets found in weekend markets were colorful, vibrant patterns of inabel (handwoven looms from Ilocos) make their appearance on vintage denim jackets, shorts, pants—basically anything denim. Some of the more traditional patterns were even transformed into bohemian chic pieces. Such is the way Piopio threads the old into something young and new. Owner Paloma Urquijo Zobel credits her mother, philanthropist Bea Zobel, for her role in helping develop the idea for the brand. The elder Zobel has long been a purveyor of local craftsmanship, and the idea of fostering a village of artisans in Palawan then creating a retail area to promote their work struck them both as a worthwhile pursuit. “The first concept to come to life was the clothing and accessory line. It�s kind of a sneak peek into what is to come in the retail area of Kalye Artisano, the artisan village that is being developed in Palawan. We teamed up to start designing for Kalye Artisano and our Piopio bed and breakfast together, and she began taking me to these
wonderful communities of artists and weavers who were creating incredibly intricate and beautiful pieces. While my mother�s mind was focused on home ware, mine quickly shifted to clothing.” Three Become One A graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York, Zobel has the know-how to put up a fashion brand. She has a degree in strategic design and management, which, she explains, “covers everything from product design, urban planning, international business law, and even textile exploration.” With experience in working for big beauty and fashion brands like Estée Lauder and Proenza Schouler as part of the product development team, she saw herself wanting to explore the strategy and marketing side of the business. She went on to earn a master�s degree in strategic marketing at the Imperial College Business School in London while continuously helping her mom, who was also hard at work putting together a team for their first venture. “My mother, who has worked with Ina before, saw her love and excitement for traditional fabrics, and introduced me to her,” says Zobel of Ina Estacio. In the Piopio team, Estacio has the most experience
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COV ER STORY
and interest in the world of fashion: she has collaborated with jewelry designer Natalya Lagdameo for the clothing line Studio Nueve and with clothing designer Antonia Martel. But when asked what truly sparked her interest in joining this new inititative, she answers, “Definitely an interest for heritage.” The third and youngest woman in the team is Therese Tiosejo. Initially dreaming of becoming a special education teacher, Tiosejo’s affiliations with different college organizations that champion volunteerism and community development made her appreciative of a job that would promote both artistry and community. “Piopio is not just about fashion but the communities behind them,” she affirms.
Therese Tiosejo joined Piopio last year to help change the stigma and prove that these indigenous textiles can be modern and wearable.
Taking flight With the dream team finally complete, Piopio’s first collection was the next agenda. Estacio started working on designs as early as June of 2016 while Zobel was finishing her master�s degree. When Tiosejo joined in August, she took charge of leading the overall coordination, planning, and conceptualization of the collection. Once Zobel was done with school and came home for good in September, everything went on hyper drive. “We all like to do everything together. We each bring something new and different to the table,” she says. Each of them is very much involved and invested in every step of the process, from sourcing fabrics and designing to crafting and even selling the finished pieces. The brand�s strength is in its youthful and approachable designs, which were also a hurdle to execute for the three women and the artisans. “Staying truthful to the art and trying our hardest not to take the heritage out of context when creating our pieces,” says Zobel. After almost three months of rigorous work, Piopio was launched in the Greenbelt pop-up shop as a preview of what would be exclusively sold in Kalye Artisano. “Repurposing these traditional Filipino fabrics was really to create a spark of appreciation for culture and heritage among the youth today,” says Tiosejo. The pop-up�s success was a big indicator of the growing awareness and appreciation for what the brand is trying to do. Clothes and accessories flew off the racks, and stocks had to be replenished two days after opening. New designs are constantly being developed especially for their vintage denim set, with everything aside from the traditional fabrics sourced from different ukay-ukay stores. “Every day is a new history lesson, and we have so much fun putting a Piopio twist on everything we find,” says Zobel.
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COV ER STORY
“Staying truthful to the art and trying our hardest not to take the heritage out of context when creating our pieces,” says Paloma Urquijo Zobel of the challenges they faced in creating Piopio’s first collection.
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Ina Estacio, Piopio’s lead designer, describes the Piopio style as bohemian world-wear that imbues Filipino artistry.
COV ER STORY
“Repurposing these traditional Filipino fabrics was really to create a spark of appreciation of culture and heritage among the youth today.”
Fashion and beyond Piopio�s main objective is to promote a new kind of Filipino living. Local, sustainable, and eco-friendly are more than just trends to the team. “The Internet has connected us in a way that has allowed many barriers to be broken and cultures to be bridged. We are more in sync than ever, and with this comes the opportunity to use tradition and heritage to help us stand out and differentiate ourselves. I think this trend will not only grow but will become a necessity,” Zobel says on the bright future of Filipino artistry. There is still more to be excited about this little team of three. With the development of Kalye Artisano underway, the focus this year is to frame and set up an entire package with a complete and full impact. “We�re moving to Palawan this March,” Zobel reveals. Kalye Artisano will be the first cultural hub in the heart of El Nido, and workshops with local artisans would be made available to tourists and locals alike. A retail area would be constructed, to be followed by a sustainable bed and breakfast and a jungle bar.”
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COV ER STORY
OF CREATIONS BY LOURD RAMOS SALON STYLIST CARLA VILLANUEVA SHOT ON LOCATION A11
MAKEUP RIA AQUINO AND APPLE FARAON OF MAC COSMETICS HAIRSTYLING ROMEO SAMELLANO
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ST YLE
WANDERING FREE Saunter around the city in light and free-flowing fabric STYLING MEG MANZANO PHOTOGRAPHY ARTU NEPOMUCENO
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ST YLE
Corduroy button down polo, P990, Uniqlo, Glorietta 5. Linen skirt, P5,100, Araw, araw-araw.com. Suede bag, P3,995, Promod, Greenbelt 5. Wataru slides, P1,250, Collezione-C2, Power Plant Mall.
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ST YLE
HAIR AND MAKEUP JET BABAS MODEL SAM HUMPHRIES
Collar shift dress, P4,450, Harlan + Holden, Adora, Greenbelt 5. Round bag, P4,200, Aranaz, Greenbelt 5.
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ST YLE
Terracotta dress, P2,200, Anika, wearanika.com. Skirt, Gabbie Sarenas, gabbiesarenas.com. Plum bag, P3,399, Charles & Keith, Greenbelt 5.
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ST YLE
Sleeveless top, P2,950, Harlan + Holden, Adora, Greenbelt 5. Khaki mini skirt, P1,650, Lady Rustan Private Label, Rustan’s Makati. Bag, P13,590, Zacarias, Aphro Living, The Alley at Karrivin.
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EATS
THE NEW CLASSIC
This new dining place is so nice, it has to be visited twice TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
Made Nice Supper Club’s grilled octopus sits on a bed of custom tonnato sauce, made of tuna and anchovy.
It was a crazy Monday night in December. Most tables at Made Nice Supper Club were occupied by big groups of friends exchanging gifts and catching up over good food and cocktails. Guests were doing rounds, stopping by other tables to talk to even more friends, as if they were in their own homes, hosting a Christmas party. Then, there were groups of pairs— friends and couples—sharing food over murmured conversations. And here I was alone, coming back for the Aviation cocktail after a long day at work. There are exactly 12 dishes (five appetizers, five entrées, and two desserts)—each named after the main ingredient of the dish—and three sides on their menu. For a light start, order the carrot, made with roasted carrots, quinoa, dollops of sour cream, toasted seeds, and a drizzle of vinaigrette on top. If you want to go straight to the heart, the agnolotti is a must-try, a collaboration between head chef Jack Flores and one of the partners, Raulito Fores, who makes the pasta from scratch every day. The flavors of sweet corn and parmesan cheese inside every heavenly pocket of agnolotti, livened up by a hint of truffle oil, are familiar yet innovative, and resident marketing guy and also part-owner Toby Panlilio swears this dish to be the one that made him want to join the team. Making up the mains are tagliolini, halibut, pork, beef, and lamb. The tagliolini is basically Made Nice�s
version of the cacio e pepe, which literally means “cheese and pepper,” made thicker with the addition of duck yolk. Their pork dish features roasted pork belly and tenderloin, finished off in a salamander to get that crispy, crackling skin a la chicharon. For a more Filipino twist, it is paired with ensalada and the intentional tinutong rice. There are only two desserts, milk chocolate and banana. Partial to chocolate, Gabby Ramos-Flores, Jack’s wife and also part-owner plus the resident pastry chef, created the chocolate dish of her dreams by combining slices of dense chocolate cake, quenelles of milk chocolate ganache, a scoop of malt ice cream, and dulce de leche. Cocktails aren�t the stars of the show at Made Nice, but they have an interesting lineup with more to be offered within the first quarter of the year, according to head of the bar and another part-owner Wren Go. Aviation, the drink I returned for, is a gin-based cocktail with a soft, blue hue courtesy of the blue pea flower, but once lemon juice is added, the drink turns into purple. There is more to be excited about in this young and vibrant restaurant: a total change of menu early this year. “It will be a little bit risky, like changing the restaurant itself,” Flores says. “People would come in and they won�t see anything familiar anymore the next time they come back.”
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EATS
Clockwise from top left: Owners Wren Go, Jack Flores, Gabbi RamosFlores, Raulito Fores, and Toby Panlilio; Cocktails are P375 each; Made Nice’s setup is made for small and big groups; Pork (roasted belly, tenderloin, eggplant purée, and tinutong rice).
Made Nice Supper Club. GF PPI Bldg., Esteban St., Legaspi Village, Makati City. 0995-0172482, www.facebook.com/MadeNicePH.
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S
RECIPE
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RECIPE
GOOD SNACKING
Replenish your energy level with a preservative-free fruit and nut bar TEXT AND STYLING CHARLIE CARBUNGCO PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
FRUIT AND NUT POWER BAR
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
6 ounces prunes 3/4 cup buckwheat flour 1/2 cup old-fashioned oats (not quick-cooking) 1 tsp. kosher salt 1/2 tsp. baking powder 1 1/4 cups cashew nuts 1/2 cup virgin coconut oil (at room temperature) 4 tbsp. unsalted butter (at room temperature) 1/3 cup brown sugar 3 tbsp. honey 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut 1/4 cup orange 1/4 cup banana 1/2 tsp. calamansi zest 2 tbsp. of calamansi juice
1. Preheat oven at 180°C. Prepare a 4x4 non-stick baking pan with parchment paper. 2. In a food processor, combine and pulse buckwheat flour, oats, salt, baking powder, and 1 cup of cashew nuts for 2 minutes until the nuts are finely ground. Add oil, butter, coconut sugar, and 2 tbsp. of honey. Lastly, pulse the shredded coconut. 3. Transfer the coconut oat mixture into the baking pan. Press the mixture down on the pan until it gets packed and compressed.
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4. Pulse the prunes, calamansi juice, and calamansi zest in the food processor until the mixture becomes smooth. 5. Spread the prune purĂŠe over the coconut oat mixture evenly. 6. Chop the remaining 1/4 cup cashew nuts and spread it over the baking pan. Add orange, banana, shredded coconut, and remaining prunes. 7. Bake for around 15 to 20 minutes.
T HE GET
WALKING THE TALK When good materials unite with good design TEXT KRISTELLE ANN BATCHELOR PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK SEGOVIA
Shoe designer Luis Espiritu describes his new line of Wataru slides as inspired by the everyday footwear of the Spanish era. The closed-toe shoes, made from abaca and canvas, are available in over 15 colors, ranging from neutral to bright and dark. They complement the rest of the Wataru collection, including the previously released Mary Janes and wedges, which supports the craft of artisans from Bicol, Laguna, and Quezon. Working hand-in-hand with retail brand Collezione-C2, Espiritu wants to revive the dying abaca and weaving industries through his shoes. Available at Collezione-C2, Power Plant Mall, 757-8516, www.collezione-c2.com.
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