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Dua Lipa · Sussi · Charlie Craggs · NYC Pride 1993 Mapplethorpe · Show Me Your Battle Scars Transology · Liv Wynter 1
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March 2017 1
Publisher Josh Fletcher josh@hiskind.com Publishing Editor Dean Eastmond dean@hiskind.com Print Editor Darcy Rive darcy@hiskind.com Digital Editor Louis Staples louis@hiskind.com Music Editor Bill Baker bill@hiskind.com Sales Manager Ned Patten ned@hiskind.com Writers Shannon Cotton Katie Davies Adam Groffman Bart Kaczanowicz Jessica Lindsay Connor Spilsbury-Brown Jordan White Creatives Gregoire Alessandrini Danny Baldwin Kirsten Basset Nicole Calow Tara Enyia Caoimhe Hahn Angel Ivan Beatrice Mustocea Joseph O’Brien Alex Owen Seamus Ryan Khadija Saye Fitria Tjandra Lee Williams
Welcome to the inaugural issue of HISKIND. HISKIND is a conversation. In a world of white noise, we want to engage in authentic, honest and meaningful discussions with our readers. We want to build a long-lasting relationship with you as you turn our pages, click our links, exchange our ideas and explore our issues. Through our work, we want to build and empower the LGBT+ community and its allies.
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HISKIND Issue 001
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Mapplethorpe
The pages of this magazine are filled with amazing and inspiring people who stand up for what they believe in. From the musicians tackling mental health and the activist nailing transphobia to the journalist changing international law and the poet battle-rapping against abuse, they’re unafraid and unapologetic in their pursuit of what ’s right. We support their efforts and celebrate their achievements. Like them, through HISKIND, we are doing what we believe is right – changing the conversations between and about the LGBT+ community. Elsewhere in the magazine, we revel in the hedonism of New York City Gay Pride from 1993, confront the Ku Klux Klan over Frappuccinos and see the two faces of international club artist Sussi. This issue captures and celebrates the many facets of the LGBT+ community, lives and experiences, and it is what we hope to do, from here on out.
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Museum of Transology
It ’s your support, encouragement and engagement that have got us this far, and it ’s what will take us further. From articles to advertising to editorials and everything in between, we want to hear from you. We hope that you enjoy the issue, The HISKIND team
Design and Art Direction Studio LP www.studio-lp.com With thanks to Aaron Cullen
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Expression Sessions: Liv Wynter Copyright HISKIND © LTD 2017 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publisher. All information and prices quoted herein are correct at the time of going to press. Whilst every effort is made to achieve total accuracy, we cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions within this magazine. To stock HISKIND, work with us or contribute, please contact hello@hiskind.com To advertise please contact advertising@hiskind.com Cover shot by Danny Baldwin and styled by Darcy Rive. Mason wears lace shirt by Topman and leather harness by Fleet Ilya.
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Introducing
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The List We round up our favourite new discoveries, latest releases and this month’s must haves.
Retrosuperfuture Sunglasses £134 farfetch.com There’s a reason these sunglasses are called the Seth Iconic . The new classic shape means that they’re a timeless accessory, and will keeping you looking sophisticated and cool for years to come.
Sir by Mario Testino £49.99 Taschen Mario Testino is recognised as one of the greatest fashion photographers of our time. He has created some of the most iconic images of the most beautiful women. In Sir, Testino turns his lens on men to explore the evolving portrait of masculinity and male identity. With over 300 photographs, interviews and essays, this fascinating collection is as provocative and challenging as it is stunning.
Art Boom Flowers Diptych Surfboard Approx. £3200 boom-art.com Art Boom collaborates with artists to create skateboards and surf boards that double as art works as much as they are sports equipment. A limited edition of ten, each one is handmade in France and individually numbered. As beautiful as they are practical, prints include f lowers, Klimt and Disney.
Mankind Grooming Box £25 mankind.co.uk Mankind has just launched the latest edition of their Grooming Box. A luxury collection of six full-sized high end products to cover all your beauty needs, from hair care to shaving and body. A practical and indulgent gift for the man who likes to look, smell and feel good.
Byredo Bohemia Candle £50 mrporter.com Sophisticated fragrance brand Byredo introduces the Bohemia candle, a mixture of opoponax and rum with vanilla, oak moss, geranium and labdamum. It’s a warming and rich scent that burns cleanly and evenly on the pure cotton wick.
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Olverum Bath Oil From £26 olverum.com Olverum’s bath oil is a concentrated formula of ten essential oils, including juniper, lavender, geranium and rosemary, to help relax the mind, relieve muscle aches and leave skin feeling smooth and nourished.
Fitbit Charge 2 £149.99 selfridges.com With the start of spring comes renewed motivation. The Charge 2 is a customisable fitness tracker that records your steps, distance, burned calories and active minutes. It also monitors your sleeping patterns to help you get the best night ’s rest. And with interchangeable wristbands, it ’ ll look good with every outfit.
Tom Ford Bois Marocain £250 for 50ml EDP harrods.com When it comes to creating intense and enigmatic fragrances, Tom Ford can do no wrong. Now, inspired by the exotic culture of Morocco, the designer has created an elixir of cedar and incense, sweet patchouli and earthy vetiver, with thuya wood at the heart. It ’s powerful and assured. Available exclusively at Harrods.
Terrarium £75 Grace & Thorn Bring the great outdoors inside with this beautiful and simple terrarium. The lead and glass box can be a tropical or desert plantation, adding greenery and life to your home.
Dunhill Button Cufflinks £250 mrporter.com Resembling traditional buttons, these enamel and sterling silver cufflinks add a royal blue accent to your style. They’re a subtle detail that make a bold statement.
Kreafunk aHead Headphones £34.65 kreafunk.com These wireless headphones deliver quality sound with minimalist design, making them the ultimate accessory for music lovers. And when the music stops, you can answer calls on the headset speaker function via Bluetooth. While we would opt for black with gun metal details, you can choose from a range of colours, including pink, plum, white and grey.
AirSelfie Flying Camera Approx. £212 airselfiecamera.com Capture the best moments from up high with the AirSelfie. This revolutionary gadget fits like a phone cover and with turbo fan propellers, can fly your phone 20 metres high into the air to take extraordinary images in high definition.
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The Diary March
Where we’ll be and what we’ll do
WOW – Women of the World Southbank Centre, London 7th – 12th March The WOW festival celebrates the achievements and progress of women and girls the world over, fights for gender equality and explores the obstacles that still remain. From speakers and panel discussions to workshops and mentoring sessions, the event is sure to empower, challenge and inspire. southbankcentre.co.uk
Queer City: London Club Culture 1918-1967 Freud Bar, London 2nd – 26th March Today, Freud is one of London’s favourite cocktail bars. Back in the day, it was one of London’s ‘most bohemian rendez-vous’ called The Caravan. This March, the National Trust is recreating the queer-friendly members club of 1934, offering performances, debates and a curated cocktail list as well as tours around Soho. nationaltrust.org.uk
Four Quarters East London Margaritas with Mario: Just a stone’s throw away from London’s Olympic site, arcade machines meet a f lurry of cocktail choices in Four Quarters’ newly opened second venue. Following the success of their first in Peckham Rye, the lounge bar takes us back to those retro glory days and allows for endless Pacman fun, just with a few more tipples.
Yank! Hope Mill Theatre, Manchester 9th March – 8th April Yank! is based on the true story of WWII soldier Stu, a scared Midwestern guy fighting for his country. In the army, he also finds himself fighting his feelings for fellow soldier Mitch. Amidst the high octane musical numbers, this story explores masculinity, love and war. hopemilltheatre.co.uk
The Vending Machine Art Gallery Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen, London Until 25th March 2017 Bringing art out of the gallery and making it more accessible, the Vending Machine Art Gallery showcases the work of 35 emerging artists inspired by the theme of ‘Celebrating Multiculturalism’. The exhibition is free and prints start from £20. hoxtonsquarebar.com
Tove Lo and Broods Manchester and London 15th – 17th March The Ladywood is drifting. Swedish superstar Tove Lo is joined by the formidable Broods to incite aural pleasure and add a bit of Scandi sound to the British Isles this March. The singer is set to appear in London and Manchester following the release of her impeccable sophomore album.
GLITCH Film Festival Centre for Contemporary Arts, Glasgow 24th March – 1st April Now in its second year, GLITCH is a film festival showcasing the work of LGBT+ people of colour filmmakers and moving image artists. Presenting a ‘contemporary snapshot of queer passions and preoccupations’, the event line up also includes director Q&As, panel discussions, performances and an exhibition. cca-glasgow.com
Words Josh Fletcher
hiskind.com @Josh_ Fletcher_
Liverpool
eat · stay · play
Photograph Lee Williams
Super Sonic Yootha 24 Kitchen Street, Liverpool, L1 0AJ Liverpool is known for many things, especially its next level nightlife. Amongst the disused warehouses of the Baltic Triangle comes a brand new night-time experience. Heralding from the balmy summer nights at Camp and Furnace, Sonic Yootha is the love child of Ian Usher and John Aggy set to change your weekend plans. This monthly alternative gay night delivers new wave, old rave, techno, electro, hip hop, pop and soul social to its growing fan base. It was launched to serve the city’s LGBT+ community wanting something a little bit different from Liverpool’s commercial gay quarter. The night ’s name refers to actress Yootha Joyce, an actress whose hey day in the 70s saw her playing characters who were frustrated with life, but faced it all with a good deal of humour, sassiness and spirit. If they’re the three ingredients for this club night, we’ ll see you on the dance f loor.
Head to hiskind.com for more reviews, recommendations and city guides.
E AT Salthouse Bacaro
S TAY Aloft Liverpool
P L AY Camp and Furnace
‘Bàcaro’ is the Italian word given to traditional venues that serve a small glass of wine with cicheti (Venetian for ‘small plates’). Salthouse Bacaro offers portioned dishes that can be mixed and matched amongst friends, including heritage recipes such as fritto misto, chicken and Parma ham saltimbocca, and charcuterie boards along with grilled king scallops. Don’ t miss the stylish bar top which was imported from Venice and original artworks hanging on the wall in this trendy restaurant.
Located in the middle of Liverpool’s commercial district and gay quarter, Aloft Liverpool is the second hotel the brand has opened in the UK. The hotel underwent a £22 million renovation that restored the building’s original features, which now play against contemporary touches. A vaulted foyer is decorated with marble pilasters, which reach towards a classical ceiling – details like this strike the perfect balance between old world and modern luxury. Enjoy keyless check in, signature cocktails and free gigs in their Live@Aloft series.
The indoor-meets-outdoor venue promises to bring you all of the best things in culture and music. It ’s made up from three industrial spaces: a furnace, a blade factory and a coach shed. From galleries and exhibitions, to club nights, concept parties, world-class DJs and even bingo with David Hasslehoff (seriously), there’s a seemingly endless opportunity for entertainment.
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Transphobia Gets the Finger
The trans journey is a difficult one, from the stubble to the surgeries. What makes it harder is transphobia – something that activist Charlie Craggs is fighting, one manicure at a time.
Words Darcy Rive
event, it ’s one-on-one and I can only meet so many people in the allotted time. But through the press, I can spread the message to thousands of people.” In a time of uncertainty, when facts and slurs are bandied about no matter what the issue, it is these heartfelt and honest stories that hit home the most. While most people have responded positively to Craggs’s work, there’s always going to someone who doesn’ t get it. “There have been times when I’ve had really ignorant people, like a group of boys. One will have their nails done and the others will be laughing. They’re the same people who take the whole trans community as a joke. I’m here to have good, educated, nice conversations but some people enjoy being the bigot. I’m not here to educate and I’m not here to debate. There is no debate. We are here, we are trans – get over it.” The concept is simple: you sit down opposite Charlie Craggs – she’ ll probably offer you a Party Ring or Jammy Dodger – and for the next ten minutes, she manicures your nails. In that time, you two can talk about anything (well, almost anything), and at the end of it all, you’ve had a nice time and you’ve got some ace nails. It ’s a pretty fabulous idea, isn’ t it? Don’ t let those sparkly polishes or bright decals fool you, though; this is a very important campaign with a very serious message. Nail Transphobia isn’ t just about having a laugh with Craggs (which you’re sure to do, undoubtedly – she has a wit sharper than a nail file) or getting that super cute photo. The clue is in the name: it ’s about raising awareness of the trans community and overcoming transphobia.
“I wanted to create this safe space with the person where we can sit down, just me and them, and have a conversation. It’s just about having a chat.” “ When I accepted myself and decided to transition, I suddenly realised how much harder my life had become,” explains Craggs. “Things I had taken for granted before, simple things like using a public toilet or getting on the tube to stuff like getting a job, became a fight. And I was like, ‘why is no one talking about this?’ No one knew what I was going
through, what all trans people were going through, and I wanted to talk about it.” Now, Craggs talks about the trans experience at high profile events, up and down the country. Most of the attendees to her table have never met a trans person before. “Nowadays, they might have heard about trans people and seen them on TV, but a lot of people haven’ t actually met a trans person,” says Craggs. “I hadn’ t met a trans person before I transitioned.” With each event she works, with each hand she paints, Craggs increases the visibility of the trans community and humanises something that many only see through sensationalised stories in the media. Through Nail Transphobia, people can meet with a trans person face-to-face, ask any questions they might have (within reason, of course) and maybe learn a thing or two that they didn’ t know before, trans-related or otherwise. “In my personal life, I saw how powerful conversation can be,” explains Craggs about the purpose of her campaign, which she founded, funded and built all on her own. “So I wanted to create this safe space with the person where we can sit down, just me and them, and have a conversation. And it ’s not just about trans stuff. I have no agenda or script – they can ask me anything. It ’s just about having a chat.” Her work has landed her on The Observer newspaper’s New Radicals round up (number one, if you please) and on The Independent Rainbow List. She features regularly on discussion panels for the likes of LGBT+ charity Stonewall, has spoken at the Houses of Parliament, and has been featured in the pages of numerous magazines and newspapers. But Craggs isn’ t doing this for the fame: she does it to build awareness and share her story and the stories of the trans community. “ When I’m at an
But that negativity holds no sway with Craggs, not when the campaign has resulted in so much life changing support. “I get a lot of hate, obviously, but I also get a lot of love. Hate, you read it and there’s no substance to it – it ’s just rude words. But there are comments and stories so full of love and that ’s what I remember. I’ve had mums reaching out to me, explaining how my story helped them to understand their trans child. That ’s what actually counts, the stuff with heart to it.” There is still a long way to go, however. 2016 was recorded as the deadliest for trans murders, and that ’s only the reported cases, and the record has already begun for 2017. There’s still the incidents where the person was misgendered after death (in lots of cases, the victim is noted as a man in a dress, rather than a trans woman) and who knows how many unreported cases happen each year? So Craggs is doing what she does best: tackling the issue head on. She has launched free self-defense classes for trans and non-binary femmes to equip her sisters with the techniques to keep themselves safe and to empower them further. Craggs is optimistic for change. “Now, people are listening more. We’ve got people in the media, and we didn’ t have them until the last few years, really. We have people standing up for our community. And the strides we have achieved in such a short time has been amazing. Fingers crossed it keeps going at this pace.” With those brightly polished crossed fingers and campaigns such as this, transphobia will be well and truly nailed in time – even if it takes one manicure at a time. www.nailtransphobia.com @charliecraggs
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@DarcyRive
@Saye_Photo
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Photography Khadija Saye
Words Bill Baker Photography Fitria Tjandra
The music industry doesn’t have a great track record when it comes to dealing with mental health. But now, all that seems to be changing. Bill Baker finds out how the industry is challenging the stigmas and helping the artists.
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“A work of art, like a song, can be like your own child...
@BillBaeker @FitriaTjandra
Mental health has never been a palatable topic. UK charity MIND found that one in four Brits will experience a problem with mental health each year, and although it seems that now there is certainly more awareness, a fifth of us still believe that it ’s all simply down to “a lack of self-discipline and willpower.” Combine this, for example, with cuts of 8% to mental health services during David Cameron’s time as Prime Minister and you can understand that the scars of mental health and its understanding run deep. This stigma can be seen throughout the music industry. Remember the social media reaction to Kanye West ’s 2016 hospitalisation for exhaustion? It would appear that an artist who shows signs of struggling with a mental health condition finds themselves a victim of meme culture (2007 Britney/ Sinead O’Connor’s disappearances) or romanticised to make their illness some form of twisted trend (Kurt Cobain/Ian Curtis). But now, the music industry is taking the conversation about mental health seriously. Olly Alexander, for example, of pop favourites Years & Years has opened up about his struggles with depression, and R&B star Kahlani publicly discussed his suicide attempts. In 2016, Help Musicians UK launched Can Music Make You Sick?, the first industry-wide academic study into music and mental health, surveying over 2000 from a variety of fields across the music industry. With 70% admitting to anxiety and panic attacks and a further 68% reporting they had suffered from depression, it becomes increasingly difficult to understand why it ’s taken so long for this form of research to take place. Musician and entrepreneur Scott Quinn is the man behind the Music And Depression (MAD) campaign. “I wanted to speak up and start a proper, raw
discussion about mental health,” he explains. “The name is controversial and I love that. I believe we can take the energy of the word, turn it on itself and use it for good, ultimately quashing the stigma.”
let himself into my house, found me lying in bed and just recorded me singing,” Maguire confesses. “Here I am / here I stand / on my own / another lessons learned,” she sings on Elizabeth Taylor.
A musician himself, he’s fully aware of the implications of a career within the industry, especially in regards to mental stability. “Mental health has always been a prevalent topic within the industry, it is the basis for which a lot of song writing begins. But I feel that mental health has long been stigmatised and brushed under the carpet.
It ’s surprising to realise that mental health problems can progress to this stage, especially in an industry so tightly knit with contacts and working relationships. As Quinn explains, “ When it comes down to it, the real issue is ignorance and misinformation, bad habits and fear. Education and awareness are the answer.”
“For far too long, the industry glamourised this rock ’n’roll lifestyle that was fuelled by sex, drugs and money. It ’s only now that we’re seeing a shift from this. The lifestyle was a means to cope with the mental health problems that affected artists and industry in that time, but was never openly discussed or addressed.”
With Maguire still in her twenties, she is part of the wave of young musicians speaking about mental health issues. “ We are part of a great generation where young people are becoming much more honest and open about their experiences,” she notes. “They are encouraged to speak out online. Therefore, more people in the entertainment industry are speaking up because they are being asked.”
Someone not unfamiliar with the effects of saidlifestyle is Clare Maguire. Six years ago, she landed herself a top five placement on the BBC Sound Of poll, a hefty label advance and dream major label deal. Following her debut, Maguire was let go from her contract because of lacklustre sales, before falling into alcohol addiction. She eventually admitted herself in rehab. A few days prior, a doctor told her she’ d be dead within the month if she didn’ t stop. Her comeback record, Stranger Things Have Happened , was arguably a crucial album in terms of an artist divulging their struggles with mental health. “As with everything in this industry, I did it alone, went through it alone, dealt with it alone and got on with it alone,” she explains. “I feel positive about that now. It ’s made me a very strong person.” It ’s an album that breaks the stigma of mental health through its pure honesty. “My producer
“Everything you learn in therapy is about consistency and regular routines - being a musician is anything but, and it’s learning to find moments of consistency in the chaos.”
The demand to succeed with lengthy, established careers is greater than it ’s ever been, with labels and managements bearing the increasing importance of their clients’ health and mental wellbeing. It ’s often the artist ’s bandmates that are first to respond to the deterioration of an artist ’s mental health. Going it alone can only remove this firsthand connection and interaction. “The music industry is itself bipolar in nature. Some days you’re hot property and everyone wants a slice and the next day you’re sending out streams of emails with no replies,” Quinn points out. “This constant rollercoaster ride can cause real anxiety and this is only magnified by the fact that the commodity that the industry is built upon is such a personal product from the artist that is producing it.” New Zealand artist Madeira knows this first hand, having to leave her original founding three-piece to start back at square one as a solo act. “I was kicked out and made to start all over again, without any acknowledgement of what I’ d gone through or what just happened, and that took a huge toll on me mentally,” she explains. 12 “My career was slipping through my fingers quicker than I could recover. It was being taken from me, and that ’s a horrible place to be in. I’m fortunate to
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...and to have someone tell you to your face that it’s ugly just doesn’t happen with other everyday jobs.”
have a very strong spirit though, and refuse to give up on things I want,” she asserts. “For an entire year, I was a mess, I couldn’ t do much more than grieve.”
The Line of Best Fit , explains: “People don’ t want to know that their idols have to pop pills every day just to do their jobs, particularly in pop music. It ’s not been seen as a cool or fun topic to broach.”
It ’s well known that a career in music isn’ t the most consistent of lifestyles. MAD research, however, found that 52.7% of those asked found it difficult to seek any form of help. “The hardest thing now is maintaining my mental strength despite such a tricky lifestyle,” she elaborates. “Everything you learn in therapy is about consistency and regular routines - being a musician is anything but, and it ’s about learning to find moments of consistency in the chaos.”
A sobering 70% of those within the music business said they had suffered from anxiety at a time within their career. For journalism in general, workload, little-to-no pay and stress have all been suggested as factors as to why mental illness seems to be highest within the creative industries. “I’m very lucky to have a community of writer friends with whom I can talk about these things,” concludes Williams. This change within music journalism doesn’ t appear to be going unnoticed by musicians either. “It ’s not just the tabloid avenue of ‘let ’s tear them down and ridicule them for being depressed,’” explains Maguire. “Even though that ’s still very much there, there is another conversation happening online with people who understand and are sympathetic.”
“As with everything in this industry, I did it alone, went through it alone, dealt with it alone and got on with it alone.” A 2016 BBC survey found that around a fifth of the UK population believe they have relationship difficulties; that figure triples when looking at people in the music industry. Madeira points out: “I can see why so many artists self-medicate, why so many of their relationships implode, why many are bitterly lonely and some choose to end their lives.” In the age of the DIY artist and going it alone, Madeira seems like the ideal person to ask why it ’s taken so long to discuss mental health within music. “A work of art, like a song, can be like your own child, and to have someone tell you to your face that it ’s ugly just doesn’ t happen with other everyday jobs,” she tells. “I think there is always room for more support in mental health regardless of which profession anyone is in. It needs to be more than a buzz topic every year or two.” It becomes important to consider other roles within the industry if we’re to address the situation seriously. Pip Williams, pop editor for music website
Help Musicians UK, the leading independent charity for professional musicians, are behind the MAD campaign. Chairman Richard Robinson explains, “By having those conversations and encouraging more musicians to speak openly about their mental health, we can begin to chip away at that stigma so that those working in the industry do not need to suffer in silence.” “ We need to have these conversations because the music industry has a significant problem with mental wellbeing,” he elaborates. “ We need to talk about why working in the music industry is harmful to one’s mental health and how we can look to reform its working conditions.” The MAD campaign is arguably some of the most vital research seen within the music industry, so how do we go about making sure the conversation is upheld and can continue through 2017 and further? “It has provided a vital first step in helping us to establish the scale of this problem as well as provide a massive wake-up call to the music industry,” states Robinson. “It makes the topic of mental health in the music industry very hard to ignore. It ’s time for the industry to put its money where its mouth is, the world is watching now and they’re expecting more than just a few PR friendly responses and good will
gestures. It ’s time for real change and it ’s coming.” “The survey is just the first step in a long campaign. In phases two and three of the study, the University of Westminster will be digging into these issues in much greater detail before providing us with recommendations for launching the first music industry specific mental health service.” Other charities, too, are taking another huge step in the right direction. Music Support offers confidential help and a foothold for those in the UK music business whilst over in New Zealand, the NZ Music Foundation offers free advice, counselling and hardship grants to artists. A further step forward would be to see this organisation cross to the rest of the creative industry, given such surveys haven’ t occurred in other creative fields yet. The music industry is taking mental health seriously, and these surveys and campaigns go a long way in combatting stigma surrounding mental health. But we also need to be taking action in our lives – both to deal with mental health as an issue, build awareness and understanding, and to combat the remaining stigma. “Conversation is important. It gives hope for change for a brighter future,” concludes Clare Maguire. “Talk, learn and try to understand. Never stop.” Help Musicians UK helpmusicians.org.uk
If you have lots on your mind, there are phone lines and websites you can try which might be able to help. You don’t have to deal with it alone. Call SANE 0300 304 7000 SAMARITANS 0207 734 2800 RETHINK 0300 500 0927 Visit CALM thecalmzone.net MIND mind.org.uk MEN’S HEALTH FORUM www.menshealthforum.org.uk
Tribute X Photography Danny Baldwin Styling Darcy Rive Hair and Make Up Angel Ivan
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1 Sunglasses Ermenegildo Zegna Shirt E. Tautz Jacket E. Tautz 3 All Pieces Beyond Retro 4 Sunglasses Ermenegildo Zegna Jewellery Meadowlark 5 Vest Koral Leather Trousers Domingo Rodriguez Jacket Beyond Retro 6 Harness Fleet Ilya Trousers Beyond Retro 7 Jacket Ermenegildo Zegna White Shirt Topman Black Shirt underneath Topman 8 Shirt Topman Harness Fleet Ilya Shorts Ron Dorff
Words Darcy Rive
For the SS17 menswear collection of his eponymous brand, designer Raf Simons collaborated with the estate of photographer Robert Mapplethorpe to print his iconic images over crisp white shirts, cropped vests and utilitarian blue overalls.
@DarcyRive
Last year, leading photographer Juergen Teller commemorated what would have been the image maker’s 70th birthday with an exhibition at the Alison Jacques Gallery in London. In the same year, the Emmy-nominated documentary Look at the Pictures , which explored the life of the man behind the camera, was released, coinciding with the retrospective The Perfect Medium which toured the most prestigious galleries across America.
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In Loving Memory of Mapplethorpe
Clearly, the world is still in love with Mapplethorpe.
Through his self portraits, Mapplethorpe radically confronted the power of the image maker as well as the autonomy of gay male sexual practice. He is both the photographer and the muse; he is the subject of the viewer’s gaze and is gazing unapologetically at the viewer. In his most famous self portrait (1978), Mapplethorpe used a bullwhip to usurp sexual identity, acting as both the passive receiver and dominant agent of penetration. While Mapplethorpe’s work was considered by many to be deviant, others have likened it to religious practice, citing the photographer’s own Catholic upbringing as a major inf luence. In both BDSM and religious practice, there is the transgression of the f lesh, punishment and ecstasy. Speaking with a close friend, Mapplethorpe reportedly said: “I want to see the devil in all of us. That ’s my real turn on. Beauty and the devil are the same thing.” As he was dying of AIDS-related causes, he curated the exhibition The Perfect Moment, which opened in 1989 just days after his death. The 80s goes down in history as the AIDS decade, when the ‘gay plague’ destroyed almost an entire generation of gay men. While the world showed images of gay men as weak, suffering and dying, Mapplethorpe’s work showed them as empowered, assertive and assured – within themselves, their sexuality and sexual practice. And that, in spite of or as well as everything else, is reason enough to love Mapplethorpe.
In Tribute X, HISKIND pays tribute to Mapplethorpe and some of his greatest works, including Two Men Dancing (1984), Ken and Robert (1984) and Self Portrait (1980)
@ angelhairdresser
Mapplethorpe created work that challenged, progressed and defiled notions of masculinity, queer manhood, sexuality and fetish. In the photo series X Portfolio, Mapplethorpe captured the pleasure, pain and politics of the gay BDSM scene in 70s and 80s NYC. Though hugely controversial, it is important to note that Mapplethorpe didn’ t capture these activities in reportage, but rather staged re-enactments with theatrical lighting within a controlled studio environment. This formalist approach to the subject transcended his work from pornography to art.
@danny_baldwin
And there is so much to love. Mapplethorpe, who died 28 years ago this March, left behind more than 120 000 images, a charitable foundation in his name and a legacy whose inf luence can still be felt through the worlds of art, photography and fashion.
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Little White KKKnightmares In this special report, HISKIND meets an active member of the Ku Klux Klan to talk about Trump, Neo-Nazism and many more unsettling issues. Words Dean Eastmond Illustration Alex Owen
This is Ken Parker, a Grand Dragon in the Little White Knights of the Ku Klux Klan and a prolific member of the National Socialist Movement, a political hate group operating across America. The 30-something year old Christian mechanical engineering college student joins me in a local coffee shop with his girlfriend and fellow Klanswoman, Crystal. The pair don’ t identify as Neo-Nazis (despite the swastika being part of the NSM’s emblem and tattooed in Crystal’s ear), but as “national socialists.”
I then listen to a ten-minute spew of why homosexuality is “ disgusting” and “an abomination” through the preaching of various Bible readings, which quickly transcends into an angry, antiSemitic, Islamophobic and incredibly racist rant too abhorrent to be printed. His hatred, masked with religion, would put many Christians to shame, and propagates nonsense that all Muslims are judged by extremist values.
What really ignites a sense of fear and the reality of the situation isn’ t that I have found myself opposite two active KKK members, sipping away at their Frappuccinos, but in day-to-day life, Parker is a military veteran and Crystal is a police officer. 892 hate groups currently actively operate within the United States, 100 more than two years ago, with Parker being participants in two of them. His beliefs have raised eyebrows and lost him various jobs. “ We have politicians, congressmen, doctors, lawyers, senators and police officers within our ranks,” Parker proudly reveals. Founded in 1866, the Ku Klux Klan became a vehicle for white Southern resistance to the Republican Party’s Reconstruction-era policies aimed at establishing political and economic equality for African Americans. By 1925, the Klan had 4 million members and, in some states, considerable political power. But a series of sex scandals, internal battles over power and newspaper exposés quickly reduced its inf luence. The Klan arose a third time during the 1960s to oppose the Civil Rights Movement and to preserve segregation in the face of unfavourable court rulings. The KKK’s bombings, murders and lynchings took a myriad of innocent lives, including four young girls preparing for Sunday services. Now, in 2016, an estimated 8,000 members still actively exist across the country. Parker couldn’ t really tell me what the KKK do, other than recruit other people to join and “ take America back ”, which he describes as “kind of like building an army.” He tells me that only “worthy people” are to be recruited: “ true Christian members who are productive to society.” “ When the time comes to take action, we’ ll have everyone on board. We need to take our country back. Whites are quickly becoming a minority right now.” Taking action, according to the couple in front of me, “will have to be through violence.” “There has been a lot of people saying we need to do it politically – I don’ t think that’s going to work,” he follows with a laugh, reverberating the thick Southern tones to his voice. “Liberals are little cry babies. They need to crawl back into their little ‘safe spaces’ and wear their safety pins [referring to a campaign to show solidarity with minorities]. I think Christian white people should be able to go out there with baseball bats and guns and put an end to this bullshit. I didn’ t feel bad when Pulse happened [the Orlando nightclub where 49 LGBT+ people were murdered by a gunman]. I wouldn’ t do it but I didn’ t lose any sleep. I think gay people need to leave our country.”
“I wear a Trump t-shirt and a hat at college and people look at me like they want to bash me over the head with their long-boards. I hope they do – it would be the last thing that they ever did in their life. If Trump only does half of what he says he’s going to do, he’ ll be the best president this country has ever seen.” Within a week of Donald Trump’s presidential victory in November 2016, over 300 hate crimes against ethnic minorities and LGBT+ people were recorded across America, which Parker shrugs off with “ they could have tried snatching someone’s Trump hat.” At this point, Parker takes a moment to diverge from his ranting to refer to my skinny jeans: “If there was a kid wearing skinny jeans when I was at school, he’ d get his head stuck in the toilet, a wedgie and beaten up.” This man wouldn’ t think twice about disowning his future children if they came out as gay to him. His kids, if he does have them, will be home-schooled away from “ this public school crap”, where he criticises how anti-gay Bible passages aren’ t taught to children and Christians. “They have to preach peace, love and happiness; they have to perform same-sex marriages. Marriage is between a man and a woman.” Though Parker has yet to have any children of his own, he describes the KKK as a family and brotherhood, a group where they’re all there for each other. I’m told the hate group is more than just putting on white sheets and prancing around a cross. The dress code symbolises that no one in the “white race” is better than anyone else in the “white race” regardless of socio-economic status, despite Mr Parker being intently homophobic and anti-Semitic. “The only true god is the Christian god and anyone who doesn’ t worship him is a Satan and they’re going to die,” he tells me. “I don’ t even think the Holocaust happened,” he starts. “ Why did the Jews get to boo-hoo about the Holocaust when every race has been a slave at one point in history. They had movie theatres and swimming pools in Auschwitz, I don’ t think they really had it that bad.” His historical inaccuracies are as baff ling as his religious extremism. Parker then takes the opportunity to spit the idea that liberal associations are the core of the nation’s hatred. Black Lives Matter, an organisation which tackles institutionalised racism and police brutality towards African Americans, is considered a ‘ true’
hate group to Parker, who claims they are “way more violent than the KKK or the Nazis were.” “I’ve been to a few Black Lives Matter protests and they spew just as much hate as they think I do,” Parker tells me, while claiming he attends these events in his KKK robes. “I go there to show them that the white race is not going to roll over for them. I don’ t care what their agenda is. If and when my commander calls for us to take to the streets, it will be for revolution and taking our country back. I would not consider our actions criminal.”
@deanvictorr
“When my commander calls for us to take to the streets, it will be for revolution and taking our country back. I would not consider my actions criminal.”
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“Homosexuality isn’ t genetic. It ’s a sin. The primary concern with drug abusers is to get them help for their sins; the same should be done for homosexual people,” I’m told. “I’m not a psychologist, but maybe they’re doing gay conversion therapy the wrong way. I’m not saying ‘let ’s kill them all because they’re living in sin’ but we shouldn’ t be openly accepting of it.”
I’m told the murders by police of Michael Brown and countless other innocent black men and women across America are justified because “ they all owned guns”, despite him proudly claiming to own enough ammunition to put a stop to “liberal cry babies” on his Facebook page. His proposed solution to the police brutality that he denies exists is widespread segregation across America, which he argues worked great for a long time and that the US has had a lot more issues since the Civil Rights Act was introduced in the 60s. “I don’ t believe in it,” Parker proclaims when asked what he defines as racism. “I think it ’s stupid. It ’s a one-sided argument where white people are apparently the only group of people who can be racist. I don’ t believe in hate crimes – I just believe in crime.” Though his girlfriend Crystal now affiliates with the hate group, the KKK haven’ t always accepted women. Though the Klan historically consisted of all men, a separate group compiled of Klansmen’s wives called the Ladies of the Invisible Empire (LOTIES) existed. LOTIES operated as a singular matriarch with their own laws to abide by and worked alongside the KKK. Even though the Klan now accepts women within their ranks, the highest leading female still has zero say over even the newest member of the Klan. I’m told they follow the structure of the Bible where the male is the leader of the household. “One of the reasons the Klan exists is to protect the sanctity of women. If we lost all our women, the white race would disappear – they’re a very precious thing,” Parker declares. “White women are being lost everywhere. Cultural genocide is happening. You see these mixed couples walking around and it makes my stomach turn. Every commercial you see has an Asian kid and a white mum – that’s the Jewish media. I hardly watch TV because it makes my blood pressure go up so much.” This is a man who endorses Trump. He is the face of America’s next four years. Since the election that rattled America to its core, the world has seen more outward Nazi-like behaviour. Labour MP Jo Cox’s murderer decorated his home with Nazi books and statues; Nigel Farage’s anti-migrant posters have been likened to Nazi propaganda; and with the rise of the Alt-Right and far right movements across Europe and America, Parker and his allies are galvanised and ready. It ’s time we all unite and fight for what is right: love.
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Illustration Nicole Calow
After years in the wilderness, American fashion house Tommy Hilfiger is suddenly relevant again after a 90s inspired collection with superstar model Gigi Hadid. Now you only need to take a walk down Shoreditch High Street to spot someone bouncing along in a pair of Hilfiger dungarees. A memorable first-hand experience of this process happened to me at Christmas five years ago. My family were gathered in my grandmother’s living room, half way through the process of giving gifts. We like to make this experience even more excruciating by opening our gifts one by one in front of the whole family like some sort of modernday sacrificial ritual. One of my cousins hastily unwrapped his gift and discovered a pair of white Fila trainers beneath the festive paper. Despite his best attempts at a ‘gift face’, he looked as though he’ d just sat in chewing gum. While this might seem ungrateful, at this point, no sane person would have been seen dead in Fila. Chatting in the kitchen afterwards, one of my other cousins cackled: “I mean, Gola has made a comeback – even Hi-Tech has made a comeback – but Fila will never make a comeback!” It turns out that she was wrong. Last week one of the girls that I live with proudly waltzed into the kitchen wearing none other than a pair of white Fila trainers, confessing to having spent £105 on them. This is no isolated incident. Sportswear brand Champion is now hugely popular with celebrities like Kanye West, having been resurrected from a label you’ d expect to see on the rails of a charity shop. West ’s wife Kim Kardashian recently wore Adidas popper tracksuit bottoms from the 90s to Paris Fashion Week, and her sister Kylie Jenner has also been snapped in a Von Dutch cap. What ’s next? Juicy Couture tracksuits? So why are we so obsessed with resurrecting old brands? Although fashion is an industry that is renowned for looking to the future, we are currently in a throwback-obsessed era. After the seemingly neverending 80s revival, it was inevitable that the heavily branded 90s and early 00s would someday take centre stage. Our obsession with branding hasn’ t been limited to sportswear brands, or even fashion labels. Design houses including Christopher Shannon and Moschino have incorporated food logos into their
clothing, blurring the lines bet ween kitsch and high fashion. It is this quest for kitsch, or more precisely irony, that is the driving force behind the throwback era and our quest for the next ‘cool’ brand. This has as much to do with how we are dressing as what we are wearing. A student wandering down Brick Lane in an Umbro tracksuit carrying a £4 organic coffee isn’ t just wearing the tracksuit, he’s “ dressed up” in it. Dressing in blast-from-the-past brands has now become a competition for who can find up the bleakest brand and ironically present it as the height of fashion. Being seen as really uncool is now apparently the coolest thing ever.
@NicoleCalow
The fascinating thing about fashion is the accelerated pace that something can go from being completely ignored to the height of cool. People who don’ t follow fashion often aim this type of criticism at the entire industry, but it is remarkable how quickly a brand can be hauled out of the cesspool and f lung into pages of Vogue .
@LouisStaples
For an industry that is always looking forward, fashion is taking a moment to look back. And surprisingly, it is reviving brands that have been long since dead. Louis Staples explores our current obsession with bleak brands.
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Words Louis Staples
We can see this quest for bleakness clearly in the progression of sports brands that have become popular in the last five years. It all started with the big dogs like Adidas and Nike, but then we wanted more. Next came Umbro, Gola, Hi-Tech, Fila, Champion and now it ’s Ellesse’s turn. Whichever way you look at it, we’re chasing a sense of irony in our clothing. It has become a race to the bottom. This trend isn’ t going to disappear any time soon. French luxury brand Vetements, who have risen to the forefront of fashion through adopting a tonguein-cheek attitude, recently unveiled a collection inspired by ‘working class stereotypes’. This included a ‘chav’ look complete with tracksuit, scarf, cap and trainers, signalling that we will soon see people ironically dressing-up as chavs in clothes that actually cost thousands of pounds.
“Dressing in blastfrom-the-past brands has now become a competition for who can find up the bleakest brand and ironically present it as the height of fashion.” But isn’ t finding humour in dressing like a chav a prime example of the kind of classist snobbery that the fashion industry is always accused of? Of course, but being surprised at elitism in fashion is like going to see Britney Spears and being shocked that she lip-syncs. 26 So if you’re a follower of this trend and want to know which brand is going to be the next to have a winning streak, think bleak, bleak, bleak.
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Words Dean Eastmond Photography Seamus Ryan
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SHOW SHOW ME ME YOUR YOUR BATTLE BATTLE SCARS SCARS
@deanvictorr
What Cancer Taught Me About Body Image
Your relationship with your body changes when you find out you have cancer, but body image is rarely discussed. Dean Eastmond shares his story and the lessons he has learned about his body throughout his fight. “I’m not a man anymore!” the ex-convict (and insuperably homophobic) fellow cancer patient on my ward bellows in a thick Northern accent. He doesn’ t talk to me, but widely refers to me as “ that queer in the corner” or “little fag” in the little tantrums he has about having to share a ward with what he considers ‘lesser men’. There’s no doubt: cancer plays with the head.
whether this weight gain or loss is permanent. My body f luctuates from twig to full-blown manatee. I blame the steroids from the chemo, but in all honesty, I have no idea what is happening to me half the time. Early on in my diagnosis, I tried to find a positive side to everything. I had joked about weight loss as one of chemo’s perks. It was a bad joke.
In June 2016, my life turned on its head when I got the news nobody ever wants to hear: “You have cancer.” To be precise, I have Ewing’s Sarcoma, an extremely rare and aggressive soft tissue and bone cancer growing off of the ninth rib on the right hand side of my chest. Since the day I was diagnosed, I’ve completed eight cycles of chemotherapy, lost my hair, my house, my normal life, the feeling in my fingertips and have gained a new-found hatred for daytime TV (all but Come Dine With Me). I have seen fellow cancer patients die around me, shared wards with some of the bravest people with the biggest smiles and kindest hearts, seen others deteriorate, watched myself deteriorate and seen the exhaustion in my mother’s eyes.
As queer people, we exist in something of a viscous playground of bodily categorisation and expectations. The desire to be skinnier or more muscular is perpetual, body dissatisfaction is no rare occurrence and the conformity to hegemonic norms elevates themes of fragile masculinity and shame. Jocks, twinks, twunks, bears, cubs and God knows how many other tribes exist to categorise and reduce gay men’s body shapes and types to a single dismissive, loaded and often damaging term. And if you do not fit into the ‘desirables’ in the queer community, you are lost and often ignored. But what happens when chronic illness steals you from fitting in anywhere?
That ’s the thing with cancer – it changes you in every way, more than you can imagine. I have been stripped of the control on the way my body looks, my hair no longer grows and I have sometimes felt reduced to a colourless mess.
Though hair loss is the least painful out of the seemingly thousands of side effects cancer and chemotherapy constantly throw at me, it seems to have had the strongest effect on me so far. Losing facial, body and the hair on your head immediately brands you as something to be seen with sympathetic eyes. Accepting that you look like someone with cancer is just as difficult as accepting that you are a person living with cancer. You become someone you don’ t recognise as much anymore when you catch yourself in the mirror – you see a lesser version of yourself and feel sort of incomplete. I have become a dilution of a former self. Nausea, intense fatigue, night sweats, heart palpitations, headaches, muscle and bone pain, anaemia, changes in taste and appetite, memory loss, confusion and mouth sores are all side effects that bare no public form. My suffering is private and behind closed doors (or curtains on wards), but hair loss is pretty damn obvious and the change everyone notices. Clothes shopping has become more and more awful throughout this journey. I have to look in the mirror at this new body, and wonder
This disease plays with the expectation of how one presents themselves and this fragile twitch of broken masculinity. Cancer in men like me strips them of the control of how they look, how they fit in, how they belong. Soon, as they take muscle from my back and four ribs from my body, I will be littered in scars that will bear the weight of time and occupy the majority of my torso. It will take weeks for my hair to return and months for my health, but perhaps years for my confidence. I have tried drawing eyebrows on myself time and time again, resulting in what can only be regarded as a mess, never left the house without a cap and still find myself staring in mirrors after showers, trying to remember what it was all like before ‘ this’. Of course, like the next guy, I had plenty of self-confidence and anxiety issues way before cancer f lipped my life into some nightmare, but as Ewing’s Sarcoma continues to teach me more and more, I have learned that, as a society, we have become so obsessed with the way we present ourselves, that losing the power to control that has become a side effect some would consider worse than cancer. Cancer will not affect my style. My scars will reclaim themselves. When I look in the mirror now, I try to focus on the parts of my body that I love. I take a moment every day to be grateful for the parts of my body that are working perfectly. No matter how short the list, there’s always something.
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New York City Gay Pride 1993
Photography Gregoire Alessandrini Words Darcy Rive
New York, that concrete jungle where dreams are made of. It ’s a city that will always live in the shadow of its glorious yesteryears, “a mythical time where you could stumble into Basquiat, Patti Smith or Debbie Harry at the corner deli,” as Gregoire Alessandrini remembers. The Parisian photographer, video director and producer spent eight years in the city, and his photographs give us a glimpse into a world gone by. Alessandrini went to New York as a film student. “It was just what I had imagined and so much more. I started exploring the city from one end to the other, always carrying my old Nikon camera with me.” His work at the time was untrained and perfectly captures the irreverence of the city. It ’s carefree and exciting,
and caught in a euphoria of a new generation of gay men after the epidemic of the 80s. “At the time, I didn’ t pretend to be a professional photographer. I guess I had the intuition of being witness to a vanishing world. Here and there, you could see the remains of a golden era, of a certain idea of New York. It was a period when everything seemed possible, cheap, simple and wild.” Here, we show Alessandrini’s photographs from New York City’s Pride marches in 1993. Drag queens, leopard-print-chapped cowboys and grandmas took to the avenues in celebration of the LGBT+ community. “Today, I’m sincerely glad to know that these images are of interest to a nostalgic New Yorker like me,” says Alessandrini, “but also to the younger generations, curious about this (not that far away) past.”
Dua Lipa
She’s dominated the charts with instant hits, sold out international shows and sang on stage with her dad in front of 18 000 people. Music editor Bill Baker meets Dua Lipa.
Living under a rock would be the only excuse for not hearing either Hotter Than Hell or Blow Your Mind (Mwah) on repeat during the course of last year. She’s left her stamp on pop as quickly as she entered the scene, marking herself as much as a ‘one to watch’ as a fully-fledged pop star, seemingly simultaneously. “Everything’s been step by step, especially with the London shows growing from Oslo [Hackney] to Heaven to KOKO. It gradually grew in a healthy way and it is really exciting to see how I’ve grown as an artist, for sure,” she says, before a brief pause of laugher to herself. “Especially from my first show of being an absolute ball of nerves and now to being a small ball of nerves.”
“She’s left her stamp on pop as quickly as she entered the scene, marking herself as much as a ‘one to watch’ as a fully-fledged pop star, seemingly simultaneously.” The brisk step up in crowd sizes is a feat many an artist would be lucky to achieve in double the time. Lipa had a sell-out 1500 capacity KOKO show under her belt before 2016 was up. “I grew up around Camden and went to school in Kentish Town so to be able to perform there on the stage instead of being in the audience was really, really cool. I saw loads of my favourite artists there – Bruno Mars, Schoolboy Q, J Cole,” she lists. All this, without the treacherous debut album out the way yet, highlights just how much of a big deal Dua Lipa is. The aforementioned first record is, however, still pretty far off (and now accompanied with a June release date). “Oh god, I mean, look – I have one opportunity at getting this album out,” elaborating on the inclusion of the “possible new artists” joining the record as she told Twitter, causing the delay. “I really, really wanted to give myself that time to possibly make the album better and have some more additions, you know? All I really wanted to do was change it.” Delayed or not, her debut self-titled effort is shaping up rather nicely. New Love still packs the punch it caused on first listen, even when sandwiched between the more chart-friendly numbers. Bad Together proves Lipa’s far more capable of a stellar chorus than her past few releases would suggest while Thinkin’ Bout You ropes in the duality element, switching the power pop for soulful balladry and pulling it off just as well. The art of collaboration seems a key element in the rise of Dua Lipa. “It’s just interesting to see other people’s thoughts and ideas in order to create something that’s new and exciting,” she replies when
questioned on how easy sharing the writing process is. “I think it’s so fun to be able to collaborate and you make such good friends. Andrew Wyatt is one of my favourite people to write songs with. I’m actually going to L.A in a couple of weeks so we get to just hang out, write and chill.” Wyatt, the main man behind Miike Snow and numerous song writing/production credits (Charli XCX, Florence + The Machine), is on New Love duties whilst Lipa’s recent collaboration with undeniable legend Sean Paul on No Lie heralded her first ‘feat.’ moment. “Sometimes I get a bit scared about features. I feel like they can change who an artists is or what they do,” she elaborates. “It was always very important for me from the beginning to get my own music out first before thinking about collaborating and making sure that it’s on a song that I really, really love and feel very personal to.”
@BillBaeker
Duality appears, without irony, to thread its way through Dua Lipa’s life. The majority of her teens was spent between London, where she attended the Sylvia Young Theatre School, and her home country of Kosovo. Moving back to the UK in pursuit of a music career, 2016 found Lipa up for Brits Critics Choice award, a BBC Sound Of poll nod and, more recently, the UK recipient of the European Border Breakers Award. Her first UK show was to 140 people in Bristol; 9 months later would see a Kosovo outdoor headline show to 18 000 fans (the equivalent of London’s O2 arena).
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Words Bill Baker
Duality crops up again, reflecting the balance of her studio and touring time and its importance to the whole Dua Lipa package. “You know, after being in the studio for such a long time, you start to crave getting out, doing interviews and playing live shows and do all the other fun stuff. After doing that for a long time, you crave the studio and want to get back into writing about all these things you’ve done. It did come to a point where I was on my US tour where I said I needed to sit down and write so I did that whilst on the road. So it really depends.” The tour in question happened to be a support slot for Troye Sivan’s U.S Suburbia Tour, an artist already a figurehead within pop’s current scene and whose LGBT+ teen following unsurprisingly cottoned on to Lipa in an instant. “I think no matter what fans or what audience you’re connecting to, you should show support for the LGBT+ community,” she states with confidence. “Troye has done a lot for the LGBT+ community. A portion of his shows went to charity. I think it’s amazing to use your voice as an artist to help. You need to speak to people and in times of need, you need to be someone’s shoulder to lean on. You need to let your fans and your listeners know that you are there for them, that you are going through this together. That’s what makes my bond with my fans so special, that we are there for each other and if they’re upset, they do message me. It’s a really sweet community and I’m so grateful for what they’ve done for me so whatever I can do to help back, I will.” A respectable 18 000 of said fans showed up to her headline show in Pristina, back in Kosovo in August 2016. “It was insane, I couldn’ t believe it myself but it was really, really special,” proclaiming with an obvious excitement. “I decided to surprise my dad [Kosovar Albanian rock singer Dukag jin Lipa] by covering one of his songs for the encore and everyone in the audience started to join in and sing along. My dad happened to be backstage so I made him sing the second verse with me. He couldn’ t believe what was happening but it was really nice to have the opportunity to share the stage with my dad.” Topping a show of that size so early into your career, it’ d only seem natural to set yourself a new goal. It’s a thought she ponders on for a short period. “I mean, my one and only goal is music at the minute so I think it’ d be a good idea just to focus on that and not be distracted by anything else. But who knows…” Her aspirations for 2017, however, are crystal clear. “Release an album, head out on tour, go everywhere. Just create some amazing memories, ones that I will never forget.” Duality may have followed her to this point, but 2017 is singularly hers for the taking.
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Introducing From our stereo to yours: We shortlist our favourite emerging music acts to add to your playlists.
Anna of the North
KLOE
Aquilo
PWR BTTM
Elohim
You can’ t really go wrong with a name that conjures up images of mythical beings and shield-wielding Norwegian maidens. Formed of Oslo native Anna and Melbourne producer Brady, the duo met while Anna was studying in Australia and realised that the music they were making was actually pretty good. Debut track Sway was recorded over Skype before being remixed by chart conquerors/ botherers The Chainsmokers, setting the blogosphere alight with love and intrigue for the duo.
Be under no illusion from Scottish sensation KLOE’s sweet and sugary vocals, this girl is fiercely uncompromising and grippingly honest – and that ’s exactly why we love her. Turning heads, and ears, with debut EP Teenage Craze , the singer has already built up an impressive following online after showcasing her alluring synth pop offerings and it ’s an ascent that looks set to continue throughout 2017.
In moments of solitude, Aquilo provide a consoling shoulder to cry on. Whether it ’s the painfully honest lyrics or the atmospheric numbness of each track, the duo portrays their life events in the most heartfelt ways possible. From the studio to performing in front of already vast crowds, the Lake District pair make it seem so easy to pour their hearts out.
Mystique is a quality that ’s often remiss in an industry where everything is handed to its audience on a platter from the get-go. Things were in desperate need of being shaken up, and who else to take the stand other than the alluring wanderess Elohim. Hidden under a façade of an animal mask and computerised dialect, Elohim constructs sweet melodies that delve into issues society is still uncomfortable confronting.
@aquilo
Made up of members Ben Hopkins and Liv Bruce, PWR BTTM’s live shows are a thing of chaotic elegance. Their hard-hitting 90s indie-rock sound mixed in with their risqué witty personalities really give this duo that spark that many musicians lack. The fearlessness of entering the music industry open about their sexualities and having a band name based on bottoming is brilliant; the intention of making LGBT+ members feel empowered and comfortable with themselves has seen them endlessly praised. Their lyrics cover everything from self-doubt to heartbreak. They’re a therapeutic listen, perfect for dancing with friends or walking down the street pretending you’re in a coming-of-age 90s f lick. They give listeners a kick of self-confidence and the way they’re so open in the industry on all things LGBT+ make it seem like the norm. Exactly what we need right now.
– Jordan White
@PWRBTTMBAND
– Jordan White
Both The Dreamer and Baby landed themselves happily at the top of Hype Machine, a trio of The Great Escape slots and a handful of London shows, firmly sticking them on many a New Artist radar. New single Oslo can only prove that, in an age awash with signature Scandi-pop, Anna Of The North shine through. @anna_ofthenorth – Bill Baker
Following recent single releases UDSM and Liability, we’ve learnt the singer isn’ t afraid to tackle any topic that is on her mind. Debuting new material at her headline show in London proved she has the diversity to go the distance, switching from deliciously upbeat dream pop to harsher and darker electronic tracks, all laced with infectious melodies. A debut album is in the works and more shows planned for 2017.
Numerous EP releases and standalone singles have built the two quite the following, which only suggests an immense growth with the release of their debut record Silhouettes in January. We can say first hand that the live shows are like no other. The lads need no over-the-top production to startle their crowd because their voices alone are enough to conquer, and is the secret weapon they’re going to use to take the coming year by storm.
To say that her back catalogue will take you on a fixating trip that will make you feel an upsurge of emotions is one huge understatement – it ’s so much more than that. Allow Elohim to escort you on a hallucinating experience with her music, just like she does us each and every time, which is why we find her overly qualified to owning the title of being the ‘ future’ of music. @elohimmusic
@KLOEmusic – Shannon Cotton – Connor Spilsbury-Brown
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Vinyl records will always be cool. But finding the right record – that’s the challenge. Thankfully, there’s a bunch of new subscription services to help build your collection.
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Record Breakers
@BillBaeker
Words Bill Baker
Based on a monthly payment and delivery, each of these subscription services offers something unique, without reducing the sentiment of record buying. We’ve selected our six favourite record subscription services, each with their own spin that keep the tables turning. Vinyl Me, Please Labelled simply as “the best damn record club”, Vinyl Me, Please boasts an exclusive LP delivered each month accompanied by a 12x12” album-inspired art print and (most importantly) a paired cocktail recipe. Nao, Låpsley and Glass Animals are all recent names to get the Vinyl Me, Please makeover. vinylmeplease.com Trax & Wax Focusing primarily on the best in dance music, Trax & Wax offers a variety of boxes to select, from disco to deep house to techno. Subscriptions vary from two to four records a month with the option to switch boxes month on month. Arguably the broadest choices in dance vinyl services out there. traxnwax.com VYNL Submit a list of your favourite artists, a team of curators put their brains to work and VNYL send you three ace records a month suited to your taste. A simple concept perfect for anyone open to discovering new music. vnyl.org
Rise Record Club Bristol’s Rise Record Club offers the delivery of their Album of the Month, accompanied by an exclusive pressing of a bonus single by the same artist. No worries if you’re not too keen on what you’ve got – they’ ll happily do a swap for something more catered to your taste. rise-music.co.uk Flying Vinyl Five 7” 2-track singles, one coloured, from five different new artists delivered with an accompanying collectors box and merchandise such as lyric sheets and exclusive art prints. All that for £20 per month, delivered straight to your door. Certainly the “intimate, personal experience that digital music cannot satisfy” that ’s offered. f lyingvinyl.co.uk Wax & Stamp Two records per month, one selected by the site themselves, the other by a guest selector. The overall aim is to provide their subscribers with 24 of the year’s strongest records. They “shy away from the mainstream” and you don’ t find out what the LPS are till they’ve been sent out for that extra element of surprise. waxandstamp.com
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Take It Easy Modern life is full of complications and demands. But thankfully, modern technology is here to help solve them. Here’s our pick of the best apps, subscriptions and services designed to make your life easier.
LAUNDRAPP Doing the laundry is one of life’s most banal tasks ever. While our mothers warned us never to wash our dirty laundry in public, we’ ll pay the price to never have to spin another load. Laundrapp is the convenient clothes cleaning service that you can access from your phone. Book a collection, they come to your door for your dirty garments and return them freshly laundered and dry-cleaned within 48 hours. laundrapp.com OPENTABLE Suddenly the stars align and you’ve arranged a date, but then the panic sets in when trying to decide where to go and making a last minute booking at a top restaurant is near-impossible. OpenTable solves that problem. It ’s an online restaurant reservation service, that you can access through the app, which allows you to make a booking in exclusive restaurants, just hours before you want to sit down to dinner. opentable.com
DAPPAD ‘Dapped’ is a hybrid of the words ‘ dapper’ and ‘pad’, for the man who wants to look the first
without leaving the second. It ’s a bespoke online personal styling service. Clients talk through their wardrobe needs with an assigned stylist, who works closely with designers and brands to pull together a selection of pieces that can be mixed and matched with your existing wardrobe. It ’s for the man who values quality and style as well as his own time. hello.dappad.com TILE If you’re constantly losing your stuff, Tile has created the perfect gadget to save your belongings and your time. The small square tool can be attached to keys, slipped inside a wallet or stuck to an object. From the app, you can ring your lost item and if it ’s within a 100-foot Bluetooth range, it plays a loud tune. And if you lose your phone, double press the button on any of your tiles and it will make your phone ring – even on silent. thetileapp.com DICE You know that feeling when you want to do something but you don’ t know what to do? Dice provides the answer. The app lists all the best events, from gigs to club nights to festivals to one off shows, and the offering is curated by
a dedicated team of nightlife experts. The idea is to find out what ’s cool, what ’s unknown and who your new favourite new artist is. The inapp Activity Feed introduces users to a world of ground-breaking new music. dice.fm HIGHBALL Highball makes you an expert barman in just a few clicks. The free app collects and shares cocktail recipes so you can build your repertoire of drinks. Featuring all the classics, the new favourites and the experimental concoctions, this is a way to learn from others and to share your own recipes. The recipe cards are simple, the community is global and the drinks are delicious. itunes.com SIMPLYCOOK Dining out is one of life’s greatest pleasures, but sometimes you just want to stay in and cook in your own kitchen. For the busy foodie, SimplyCook helps you eat restaurant-quality cuisine at home. Each box includes four recipes, easy enough for the amateur chef to follow, and four ingredients that work together to create the most amazing f lavours. Each recipe is designed to feed 2-3 people. try.simplycook.com
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C AR EER
Patrick Strudwick LGBT Editor of BuzzFeed Words Darcy Rive Photography Caoimhe Hahn
Patrick Strudwick is the LGBT Editor of BuzzFeed. Here, we discuss his prolific career in journalism and the impact his stories have had, from the LGBT+ community to the international legal system.
For someone who had no intention of becoming a writer, Patrick Strudwick has proven to be a formidable journalist. Here is someone who has used his career to start conversations, challenge inequality, expose malpractice and even change laws. As I said: formidable.
journalism. “It was a complete eureka moment. I just started emailing people about writing. Looking back now, it ’s quite extraordinary the chutzpah involved. But I found that, if you have good ideas, someone will take notice of you.”
“I do what I do in a kind of desperate attempt to make life better for LGBT+ people,” says Strudwick, ref lecting on a journalism career spanning over a decade and a half. “I believe that by exposing what we are subjected to, in the end, we will win by which I mean, we will be liberated, fully.”
Attitude , one of the leading gay men’s magazines, took notice and hired him as a contributing editor. The title became the platform where he “began branching out, both in terms of what I was writing out about and who I was writing for.” He began writing more cultural pieces, entertainment news and celebrity interviews.
Something of a musical prodigy, Strudwick attended Trinity College of Music London to study composition. However, it was email correspondence about jobs he hated, living in London and endless rants that prompted a friend to suggest a career in
In 2009, Strudwick made a decision that changed the direction and trajectory of his career. “One day, I saw there was going to be a conference in London for gay conversion therapists to learn how to cure their patients. I went undercover and was
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“I don’t get a release of dopamine from a victory that allows me to sit back and enjoy it. It gives me a pump of adrenaline to keep going.”
@DarcyRive
so horrified by what I was hearing that, a) I decided that I was going to embark upon a full investigation, and, b) that it would involve me being subjected to conversion therapy.”
After the story came out in The Independent, Strudwick embarked on a legal battle against the psychotherapist and two and a half years later, Pilkington was found guilty of professional malpractice in a hearing by the British Association for Counselling and Psychotherapy. This investigation into reparative therapy was the catalyst that drove Strudwick ’s career from celebrity and entertainment into hard news and investigative journalism. He began freelancing, writing for titles such as The Times, The Independent and The Guardian . His stories “about highlighting injustice and about making a difference to the landscape of journalism so that LGBT+ people, stories and issues are given the importance, respect and sensitivity that they deserve.” In 2015, Strudwick was recruited by BuzzFeed, media company and publisher of the most ridiculous quizzes, as LGBT Editor. Strudwick is supported by Janine Gibson and Stuart Millar (the Pulitzer Prize winning editors who broke the Edward Snowden story). He has been given the channel to deliver ground-breaking stories that have changed the representation, understanding and legal environment for the LGBT+ community. “I am here to do what no one else is doing. There are lots of LGBT+ websites and publications rehashing other news – that ’s not what I do. I am here to deliver stories that no one else can get.” One such story is that of Marco Bulmer-Rizzi. He was on honeymoon with his husband when David suffered an accident and died. Same-sex marriage was not recognised in Australia, and in the state
Though the fight continues for same-sex marriage in Australia, the foreign office in the UK has since made two major policy changes. The first change enables any British citizen who dies anywhere in the world to get a British death certificate – meaning that any same sex couple can have their marriage recognised on the certificate. The second change introduced a policy whereby same-sex couples can get a next-of-kin letter so that if they go travelling, they can show it to the authorities. And as promised, the Premier of South Australia changed the law and passed a bill recognising same-sex marriage. All of this came about because Strudwick wrote the article and brought attention to this instance of inequality. In 2016, Strudwick released an investigation into a major historical sexual abuse case. Speaking to one of the victims, David, the article probed into the original police operation and raised questions about its competence. Lincolnshire police have since reopened the case. “That story took the best part of a year. The case being reopened is an incredible victory. But I can’ t have my dessert just yet – I’m only really on the starters.” But Strudwick isn’ t just concerned with legal battles and criminal activities. He is equally, if not more so, passionate about representing LGBT+ life and people, and the issues that course through the community. He recently published a story about people who were told they were dying of AIDS in the 80s and 90s but were then saved by the introduction of anti-viral medication and given their lives back. And during the Stephen Port trial – who was convicted of murdering four gay men by overdosing them with the drug GHB – Strudwick wrote a viral article that gave unprecedented first person accounts of the chemsex scene and its effect on the men involved. “No one had ever quite written about the full extent of the horrors involved in that world.” As a journalist of LGBT+ issues, Strudwick is fearless in his delivery of difficult topics, distressing stories and challenging issues. Probing so thoroughly in his investigations, immersing himself so deeply into a story, and the pressures of delivering it sensitively, factually and assuredly must take their toll. “I am often quite affected by what I’m doing.
When it comes at such emotional, and sometimes physical, expense of his own wellness, you can’ t help but wonder what drives Strudwick. “I was thinking today about what it is that I have more than anything else and it comes down to one thing: determination. A raging determination,” he attests. “The strength of it frightens me sometimes because it feels out of my control; it ’s a bit like having a crazed demon on my back. Other people recognise it too. People know that if I’m investigating a particular story, they know that once I get my teeth into something, I will never let go. I do not recognise obstacles because they are not helpful. I will always find a way round or through things because there are just bigger things at stake.”
@CaoimheHahn
Pilkington tried to force the idea that there was sexual abuse in his childhood, attested God could heal HIV before even asking what his HIV status was, and also advised him to take up manlier activities like rugby. She attempted to cure Strudwick ’s homosexuality through psychological manipulation and erosion of self and will. “ When you stare hatred in the face, really up close, when you really hear what hate has to say about you, you are changed.”
“I broke that story one evening and it went viral, all over the world. Within 24 hours, the Premier of South Australia rang Marco to apologise and issue a new death certificate and promised to change the law. It reignited the gay marriage debate in Australia.”
Managing that is not easy,” admits Strudwick. “You really have to do these people and their stories justice. Sometimes, the responsibility overwhelms me. Sometimes the subject matter is so dark that it lives with me and it lingers. The sexual abuse story I found emotionally very difficult. The conversion therapy investigation drove me to the edge of mental wellness.”
@PatrickStrud
Over a course of months, Strudwick was treated by psychotherapist Lesley Pilkington, a 60-yearold Christian who tried to pray the gay away, and psychiatrist Dr Paul Miller, who could offer cures via Skype sessions. “It was a very traumatic experience, which hardened me. You could say that it radicalised me,” says Strudwick. “I had always cared about discrimination, homophobia and LGBT+ issues, but this cemented and propelled me more than anything else.”
of South Australia, even same-sex marriages from overseas were not legally recognised, meaning that David’s death certificate read ‘Never Married’ under his marital status and all decisions had to go through David’s father, rather than his spouse.
“When you stare hatred in the face, really up close, when you really hear what hate has to say about you, you are changed.” As we sit discussing his career, the stories he has broken and the milestones he has achieved, I am blown away by impact of Strudwick ’s work. His stories have changed laws, opened investigations and brought to light deep issues that affect the LGBT+ community. Does the man himself ever take stock of what he has done and what he continues to do? “I don’ t get a release of dopamine from a victory that allows me to sit back and enjoy it. It gives me a pump of adrenaline to keep going.” When speaking with Strudwick, hearing the voracity with which he tackles his stories and his passion for LGBT+ stories and lives, you get the sense that he will never stop working, that this is a man so committed to the cause of equality and liberation that it will consume him till his last breath. “You can’ t stop. You have to keep going,” he says enthusiastically. “I’m constantly frustrated that I don’ t have more time. There are so many more things I would like to do and I’m aware that no one is really in the same position to do what I do. That makes me more focused and energised. When I no longer hear of people having to come out, when kids no longer get bullied in the playground, when no one ever thinks twice about holding their partner’s hand in public, then I’ ll retire.”
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Photography Danny Baldwin Styling / Words Darcy Rive Hair Kirsten Basset
There’s dressing up, and then there’s Sussi. From pronouns to parties, we talk with the nightclub idol whose creativity knows no bounds.
“ When you have the power to transform yourself so completely, you can call yourself whatever you want,” replies Sussi to my question about which pronoun I should be using. Is it ‘he’ for Scotty, the man behind the make up; ‘she’ for That Girl Sussi as per the name on Instagram; or ‘ them’ as an amalgamation of both? “You can call me by whatever pronoun you want because it changes every day.” Perhaps the pronoun predicament epitomises the concept of Sussi – you just can’ t pin him down. She is an artist whose gallery is the nightclub, but she isn’ t a Club Kid. They’re one part partyer who spends their nights in raves across the world, and equal part professional who never stops working. It seems hard to find the right label in every case. “Sussi is just my label.” For Scotty Sussman, Sussi is not some alter ego, like a Jekyll and Hyde divided self. Sussi is ultimately an extension of Scotty. “ When I started dressing up, I never wanted to be another character. I just wanted to be a more extreme version of what I felt on the inside.” Sussi is both Jekyll and Hyde at once, both sides of the coin at the same time. The supreme Oscar Wilde once said, “One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” For Sussi, it wasn’ t an ‘either/ or’ situation but instead adopted a ‘both’ approach. At art school, Sussi decided to wear and become living art. “I didn’ t want to paint something and then have to give it away. I wanted to paint myself and become the creation.” It has taken time for Sussi to become actualised. When Scotty first started going out, he was “putting on a little make up and going out dancing” but nothing close to what she does now. “I’ve always had this creativity within me. I just never knew what was the right place to release it, or the right time. I couldn’ t start dressing up to the full extreme that I do now. Now I feel like I’m the artist who can really take it over the top.” That extreme version of inner creativity comes to life is Sussi’s now signature make up – a colourful frame around the jawline with widow’s peak down the brow, severe eyes and full red lips with a black strip between the two front teeth. “I had crazy braces for so long. The black strip in between my teeth was the one thing I could do to make it slightly different. The red lip >
1 Jacket and Trousers Michael Hone Harness, Hat and Shoes Sussi’s Own 2 Shirt E. Tautz 3 Head Piece Sussi’s Own Coat Sophie Skach Gloves Beyond Retro 4 Tee BeyondRetro Shorts Pinko 5 All Pieces Sussi’s Own 6 Shirt E. Tautz
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“I never wanted to be someone else. I just wanted to be a more extreme version of what I felt on the inside.�
@danny_baldwin @kirstenbassetthair
and gapped tooth is one of the most iconic looks and if I want to be an icon, I need to do iconic things.” Icon. That ’s a big word. It ’s a big word that takes a lot of guts. But for the person who dresses in devil horns, platforms, corsets and BDSM harnesses, guts are seemingly in abundance. “There came a point when I started to understand life a bit better and knew that if I wanted to get what I wanted, I had to be extra confident. I had to triple the amount of determination that I thought I needed. If you want a good result, you have to be confident with yourself.” You also have to be organised. Scrolling through Sussi’s Instagram roll, which boasts more than 52k followers at the time of writing, it documents hundreds of different outfits and looks, none of which are the same. “Most of my looks are planned way ahead. As I’m inhaling costumes from wherever I can find them – I’m always on the look out for costumes – I’ ll only look for specific items that I can add to the Sussi character. I like to keep myself on themes and stories. It keeps me sane when I’m doing my looks for nightclubs.” These looks are a bricolage of eccentricity, creativity and irreverence. From bargain bin finds to homemade pieces to luxury garments from the likes of fashion pal Charles Jeffrey, Sussi combines it all in a whirlwind of madness and hedonism. “Once you’re on the wavelength of wanting to create, there are a million opportunities and resources you can use. You just have to open your eyes. You can make it yourself and it’s also incredible how much collaboration goes on into everything.” As both artist and living canvas, as well as social media supernova, fashion darling and new age party monster, Sussi is both curator and exhibition. No one but Sussi knows what he is going to be or do next – most of us can’ t even decide the correct pronoun about them – but you get the feeling that it ’s going to be something great, something radical, maybe even something iconic. “You just have to walk every step, knowing what you want for your future and believe it will happen.” Those words of wisdom, spoken by one of our generation’s most exciting creatives, are words to live by for all.
“I didn’t want to paint something and then have to give it away. I wanted to paint myself and become the creation.”
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E XPR ES SIO N S ES SIO N S
Liv Wynter
In this month’s Expression Sessions, we meet Liv Wynter, an artist who uses spoken word and performance to talk openly about difficult issues.
She is talking about the Don’ t Flop battle rap, in which she was subjected to misogynistic and homophobic vitriol from her opponent Pedro. “I got my head shaved and my piercings when I was 13 years old. He’s not the first person to ask me if I’m a lesbian.” There’s that defiance again. It ’s a characteristic, not just of herself, but also of her work. Between the ages of 15 and 20, Wynter was in two violent relationships. She uses poetry and writing as a way of understanding the experiences. “Coming out of those relationships felt liberating but it took me a really long time to acknowledge all the stuff I’ d been through and find ways to express it.”
In the UK, domestic abuse will affect one in four women and one in six men. In her poem Body Apologies , Liv recounts her own experiences with a violent relationship. Here, lines from Liv’s poem have been written out by fellow survivors of domestic abuse. Visit hiskind.com to hear Body Apologie s in full, recited by Liv Wynter.
LGBT DOMESTIC ABUSE & VIOLENCE galop.org.uk 0800 069 6679 SISTERS UNCUT sistersuncut.org
In the poem Body Apologies , Wynter opens up about the aftermath of domestic abuse, sexual violence and rape. She is concerned that, “in light of past activities, I’m worried [my body] might be trying to break up with me” as she counts the bruises, each one tagging a memory of anger and dominance over her skin. But as she says, “ this body must be strong and it will take whatever you’re bringing, son.” See? That defiance is insatiable.
services, showing what councils and governments could really do with the space. It ’s not the only time that Wynter has used her art as a weapon for activism. She wrote a piece for Ana Mendieta, the Cuban artist who fell 34 f loors from her New York apartment window in 1985, or who, it is alleged, was pushed by her partner, sculptor Carl Andre. When the Tate Modern hosted an exhibition featuring Andre’s work in June 2016, Wynter helped organised a protest outside the gallery.
@LivWynter
“I went into it being like, ‘I am everything that makes you uncomfortable’ and I’ve tried to keep that with me,” says artist Liv Wynter. Already, you can hear the defiance in her voice. This is a woman who takes whatever is thrown at her and uses it to fuel her art, her performances and herself.
@DarcyRive
Words Darcy Rive
“Ana’s story has always been important to me because in court, one of the main things that swayed the case was the way Ana’s artwork was used against her to show that she was unstable,” says Wynter. “ When I started writing about the stuff I write about, my ex got a hold of it and did the same thing. She didn’ t get the opportunity to leave, but I did. But what does it mean to have this artwork and have it turned against you? You’re brave enough to express yourself at the cost that everyone now thinks you’re mental.” When Wynter isn’ t storming the Tate Modern, she is performing in some of the most prestigious spaces across London. In 2015 she was invited to the Royal Academy of Art as part of the Ai Weiwei events programme, celebrating the controversial artist. And she considers performing in front of Tracey Emin’s My Bed at the Tate Britain as a career highlight. “She is the reason I wanted to be an artist. My work is quite similar to her: loud, overemotional, really explicit, aggressive and aggressively vulnerable.”
In the UK, one in four women, and one in six men, in their lifetime will be affected by domestic abuse in some way. Given that harrowing statistic, Wynter knows when she walks into a room, this poem will resonate with a large percentage of the audience. “I thought I was talking about something so personal, but so many people come up to me afterwards and tell me, ‘I needed to hear that ’ and ‘you said things I can’ t say’. That motivates me to write about stuff that makes people feel uncomfortable.”
Her work is also brazenly queer. In Can’ t Argue with That, she humorously recalls an encounter with her ex-girlfriend’s new boyfriend and in rap battles, she proudly extols her talents as a bisexual lover. “Queer is a good term. It gives you space to breathe. I felt a lot of pressure growing up to make a decision about what I was going to be, as if everything would be fine as long as everyone knew whether you were straight or gay. And queer also feels very political – it ’s a way of telling other people what I am because I don’ t want to be any of the labels you’ve offered.” There’s the sense of defiance again.
Whenever she performs the poem, Wynter dedicates it to Sisters Uncut, an action group for domestic violence services, where she is also a Sister. It gives her the chance to talk about her activism, such as the demonstration the group held in an unused building in Peckham for over a month. Theirs was a political squat under Section 6 to raise awareness of the fact that there were 1270 empty buildings in Southwark, but only 26 beds available each night for a woman seeking refuge. During their occupation, they hosted a community centre with
Liv Wynter is an artist of words and performance, but she is also an unapologetically queer voice and an activist against domestic abuse. She spits bars on the dirty f loors of battle rap gigs and takes the same lyrics to London’s most respected arts venues. She rhymes candidly about uncomfortable topics with her signature sense of rebellion and empowerment. “I do what I do because I think it takes art to revolutionise people,” she says. And like Wynter, we need to take that and use it to fuel us onto greater things.
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Words Adam Groffman
TR AVEL
How we do it in
Berlin Berlin has a lot of history and every district has its own unique personality. If you’re visiting Berlin for the first time, you might have a hard time finding the truly alternative hotspots. Berlin is more than Berghain and Burgermeister (both still good, of course). These are the newest and coolest things we’re up to in the capital. Cafés While plenty of people come to Berlin for a bit of entrepreneurial inspiration from the start-up scene at places like St. Oberholz or Betahaus, it ’s the small, internet-limited cafés that provide the best socialising with strangers. For an early-morning coffee, visit Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers in Hackescher Markt, one of the trendy areas in central Berlin where you can walk and wander freely, in and out of bars, shops, cafes and a movie theater decked out in graffiti. Shakespeare and Sons is the independent, English-language bookshop with the top-quality coffee and fresh bagel sandwiches you never knew you needed (get the za’atar bagel).
Outdoors Berlin, the “greenest capital city in Europe”, has over a thousand different parks (that might be an exaggeration) and locals aren’ t afraid to spend their time outside, day or night, summer or winter. Tiergarten is Berlin’s biggest, with its many attractions and monuments (don’ t miss the Memorial to the Gay and Lesbian Victims of the Holocaust), but it ’s the smaller parks in the individual neighborhoods that stand out. Templehofer Feld in Neukölln, the old airport, has been turned into a large, f lat open space for sports, grilling and a mini golf course made from recycled trash.
Photograph Alex Galperin
In the north, Humboldthain is a small park just some blocks away from the super-trendy and sometimes overcrowded Mauerpark. Instead of offering touristic f lea market junk and live karaoke music, Humboldthain has a more relaxed atmosphere, with a former bunker turned into an artificial hill. You can watch the planes land in Tegel Airport from there (a pretty spot for a date).
By the day
Berlin has thousands of options for food and the prices range from cheap to affordable. While you can always opt for a simple currywurst or the late-night döner after partying, some places are better than others. That ’s why you’ ll find a constant queue lined up outside Mustafa’s Gemuse Kebab on Mehringdamm. Other greasy eats can be found at Angry Chicken in Kreuzberg with its Koreanstyle fried chicken, or just around the corner at the longtime favorite Hühnerhaus 36 with its grilled chicken and pommes.
A typical Berlin night out might start with drinks at a local späti (spätkauf = convenience store, often open 24 hours) and a beer on the U-Bahn before moving into some chill bar with mismatched furniture and wooden crates as chairs. In Kreuzberg, you could essentially walk down Oranienstrasse any night of the week and stumble into any number of equally hip bars but there are a few regular, queer favorites. Möble Olfe with its satellite dishes hanging from the ceiling, its Sunday night go-go dancers and bearded hipster boys every night. And when the party’s still raging late (no matter the day of the week), there’s Roses with its pink furry walls and surly staff.
Sunday Berghain. It opens midnight on Saturday and stays open until Monday morning (last entrance at midnight on Sunday). Do as the locals do and come Sunday afternoon or evening. Just check the schedule beforehand to find the DJ right for you.
When with a group, Bejte Ethiopia is a great option around the corner from most of the gay bars in Nollendorfplatz and Cocolo-Ramen’s Kreuzberg located by the Landwehr Canal is a great starting point for a night out, with excellent ramen (get the beef!).
While most of Berlin’s legendary nightlife is gayfriendly, the best queer parties take place in all over town. Megaclubs like Berghain and Kit Kat Club have a queer, anything-goes vibe every night they’re open, but look out for the regular parties like Gegen at Kit Kat Club or Cocktail d’Amor at Greissmüle. While electronic music is at the core of Berlin nightlife, there’s always something for everyone, whether it ’s reggae at YAAM, pop at SchwuZ, indie parties at Lido Club or drag queen karaoke at Monster Ronson’s.
Monday Mongay at Kino International. One of Berlin’s best independent cinemas, the Kino International hosts Mongay every Monday night at 10pm featuring an LGBT-themed film.
@travelsofadam
Party
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Food
Tuesday Taco Tuesday at Santa Maria. It ’s just 1€ tacos and 1€ tequila shots at this Tex-mex institution. Get it each afternoon and evening at one of Santa Maria’s three locations (my favorite is Santa Maria Eastside, just around the corner from queer bar Himmelreich.) Wednesday The Club. Don’ t be deceived by the name, The Club is actually a bar. While they regularly host events each weekend (from amateur drag shows to art shows), Wednesdays they have 2-for-1 drinks, including their great selection of cocktails. Thursday Street Food Thursday. Inside Berlin’s best food hall, Markthalle Neun, Street Food Thursday sees the best of Berlin’s street food vendors come together for a night of live music and great food. Try some of the traditional German foods like spätzle or go for more trendy alternatives like Egyptian or Korean. Keep an eye out for the ice cream cookies (including vegan options) from Zwei Dicke Bären. Friday SchwuZ. Open other nights of the week, Fridays are the ‘it’ night at this gay club. My favorite is the first Friday of the month when it’s London Calling night with indie Brit-pop. Also popular is the Madonnamania night (only when there’s a 5th Friday in the month). Saturday Save your weekend for the big gay parties…. Look out for popular gay club nights like Pornceptual, Hompatik, Cocktail d’Amour or Gayhane. 54 For more information visit bit.ly/berlingayguide 55
E XH IBI T IO N
MUSEUM OF TRANS OLOGY Words Darcy Rive Photography Katy Davies
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The trans community is growing in connectedness, visibility and empowerment. Now, E-J Scott has curated the Museum of Transology, celebrating the trans journey and rectifying the absence of ‘trancestry’ in our museums. “This is an exhibition of ordinary objects from ordinary people that have had extraordinary experiences,” sums up E-J Scott, curator of the Museum of Transology. Perhaps such a concise summary doesn’ t do the exhibition justice. It’s the largest display of trans artefacts, from binders and bikinis to breast tissue and hormone pills, to truly encompass the full trans lived experience. Each item has been donated to the exhibition by a trans person in the hope that this showcase will overcome the lack of trans material in our museums and galleries. Why was now the right time for you to launch this exhibition? There is growing attention to trans people’s lives and experiences, and a broader social shift in the UK surrounding understanding what gender really means – that it is on a spectrum, not inherently fixed or biologically determined, culturally and socially defined, an individual expression, freedom and human right. The mainstream media usually presents the trans journey through a ‘cis-gaze’. This spectacularisation of the trans experience needs to be tackled by the representation of real trans people’s lives told in our own voices. What do you hope this exhibition achieves? Specifically, I wish to raise awareness surrounding the complexity of issues facing the trans community in the UK. Being trans is not all about transitioning! Whilst the visibility of trans lives has risen, violence against trans people in the UK has doubled in the last five years, and the risk of attack is far higher for our queer trans intersex person and people of colour communities. The NHS was named as
systematically failing trans people whose care pathway is in breach of national guidelines before it even starts. In the Trans Equality Report, more than half of the respondents said they faced workplace discrimination or had lost their jobs because of their gender identities, and this leads to financial insecurity. It goes to follow that one in three respondents reported they had been homeless in the last three years. What message would you like this exhibition to share with members of the trans community? One of the things that museums offers to communities is the ability to put yourself on history’s timeline, to know a bit more about where you came from and why your situation is like what it is today. How willing were the participants to part with treasured items from their transition journey? I was inundated with offers and objects are still arriving in the post. It is clear to me that trans people have a thirst to be seen in the safety of a museum space. A lot of attention is paid towards the physical/ surgical aspect of the transition journey, but through the various objects, this exhibition showed the trials and tribulations from an emotional stance. Why was this so important for you to portray? Transitioning comes in many shapes and sizes. It can be physical. It can be social. It can be both. The importance of having your gender identity respected is the most important result. Telling your
mum that you want to change your pronoun can be a really hard thing to do – especially if you have no intention of having surgery or taking hormones. Starting on hormones and going through puberty again as an adult in the workplace is frightfully exposing on a personal level. Transitioning is complex, often scary, really fun, full of joy; it ’s about self and social acceptance. You have to be brave, you need support and you need respect. It takes courage, pride and ambition. Did you ask to hold onto your breast tissue with the intention of including it in a trans exhibition? Yes. The exhibition grew out of my own collection of artefacts I saved after a surgical procedure that was part of my transition. I kept everything from my hospital gown to my morphine syringe. The surgeon even pickled my body parts in formaldehyde. I love the way this exhibition is a reaction to the “erasure of transcestry in museums”. What can be done to overcome this erasure now? Trans voices and lives and identities have historically been read inside museums as expressions of alternative sexualities rather than expressions of non-binary or alternative genders. Just like museums must work with other minority and oppressed groups, it takes consultation and encouragement to engage with overlooked communities and voices. Only trans people can tell trans stories and stop the erasure of trancestory. 56 The Museum of Transology is at the Fashion Space Gallery until 22nd April 2017 www.fashionspacegallery.com
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Face Time
The science of exfoliating is simple: remove dead cells from the skin’s surface to reveal that fresh, radiant, youthful glow. Luckily, there are countless options and formulas that seamlessly fit into every lifestyle and schedule for any skin type and age group.
@omgbart
Words Bart Kaczanowicz
It’s time to shake off the winter and step into spring with a fresh face. Cold weather wreaks havoc on your skin and so does lack of sunshine and sweater weather dieting. It’s time to start exfoliating.
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A few rules to follow: • One facial formula at a time because overexfoliation is a very real thing. • Be sure to wear sunscreen during the day as speeding up cell renewal makes your skin more susceptible to a sunburn. • Personally, I opt for nighttime use and always follow with a moisturiser to lock in and replenish my hydration levels. • If incorporating an exfoliator into your grooming routine is new to you, start slow and build up your tolerance to avoid possible irritation.
Anthony Glycolic Facial Cleanser £26
Goldfaden MD Doctor’s Scrub Advanced £65
NIP+FAB Glycolic Fix Night Pads Extreme £14.95
Clinique For Men Exfoliating Tonic £16.50
Origins Incredible Spreadable Body Scrub £25
There’s a reason this cleanser has celebrated over fifteen years on the market: it’s fantastic. Thick and creamy, this non-foaming face wash is fuelled by 4.9% of skin resurfacing glycolic acid as well as soothing chamomile, aloe vera and antioxidant-rich vitamins A and C. Completely non-drying, this pore refining, deep cleansing formula sports a crisp citrus aroma. Gentle enough for daily use, this one is a solid grooming staple.
Splurge worthy on every level, this professional-grade exfoliator has a unique texture (a crumbly paste) and a significant grit factor. The combination of pure ruby crystals and cell-rejuvenating organic red tea and seaweed extracts leaves your skin feeling so soft and smooth. Your skin will absorb your moisturiser so much better. A tiny amount per application makes a jar last forever. Full disclosure: not for sissies. This one’s hard core and I wouldn’ t have it any other way.
A drugstore superhero, the NIP+FAB extreme pads are pretty freaking spectacular. Saturated to perfection in a blend of glycolic, salicylic, lactic and hyaluronic acid, they address sun damage, stubborn blackheads and other issues relating to breakouts. Swipe away after cleansing and prior to moisturizing for a glowing outcome that won’ t break any budget. Developed with Millennials in mind, NIP+FAB is full of skincare surprises. Pick the brand’s daily version if your skin is more sensitive.
Guys with dry or sensitive skin need a bottle of this Clinique tonic at all times. Little known fact: Clinique invented the concept of liquid exfoliates and has perfected problem-specific options over the years. BS and fragrance free, this salicylic acid driven medley is intended as a follow up to your cleanser and can be used twice a day. It purifies and decongests without stripping away the skin’s protective barrier. Brilliant and affordable. Things you’ ll need: cotton pads.
This is how you find a perfect in-shower body scrub: tube packaging, a salt or sugar base, an aromatherapy perk, easy rinse. Cheeky name aside, the Incredible Spreadable smoothes and softens dry elbows, knees and everything in between with an uplifting jolt of mint and orange notes. Exfoliating and moisturizing, it’s the best of both worlds. Remember to show your hands and feet some love, too but skip it after you’ve done some body shaving for obvious reasons.
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Queer Conversations: The Fag Hag
@JessicaCVL
Words Jessica Lindsay Illustration Tara Enyia
Her natural habitat is the queue outside Heaven on a Saturday night. She’s probably laughing a little too loudly at a joke from her male friend. Her name is Fag Hag, and she revels in telling everyone how much she loves the gays, because apparently she has met them all. I, myself, am guilty of doing a Laganja Estranja from time to time. Any display of excitement becomes “Yass gawd, slay queen, mama werk it,” *drops into the splits*. I’ve also often found myself gravitating towards gay men in social situations, generally finding someone who I can crack a joke with and who might compliment me on my shoes (and, yes, writing that is as mortifying as I’m sure it is to read). I’ve found immense acceptance within the LGBT+ community as a straight girl. Growing up, my generation saw Stanford Blatch in Sex and the City, Damian in Mean Girls and Jack McFarland of Will & Grace . The script was always the same: camp gay guy meets straight woman, someone throws in a mojito or mimosa, and a beautiful friendship is born. Gregory Woods, Professor of LGBT+ Studies at Nottingham Trent University and author of Homintern: How Gay Culture Liberated the Modern World , believes that the reason behind straight women’s attraction to gay men is “ the apparent lack of a sexual threat, allowing for a close and light-hearted friendship without sexual strings or any implication of ownership.” As well as this, he says our joint preferences have something to do with it. “Straight women and gay men can share their attraction to (straight and gay) men, drooling over them but also complaining about their likely failings. Gay men have long been in the habit of sexually explicit chat, which was often refreshing for their fag hag friends, who may have been brought up to be more demure, to take part in.” In my experience, the lack of judgement has been a massive factor. Glasgow-based drag queen and Drag Race UK Ambassador finalist RuJazzle agrees. “I’ve never been annoyed by straight women at a drag show – I’m overjoyed at anyone, regardless of gender or sexual orientation to come and support
@TaraEnyia
Fag Hag: a terrible term for a beautiful and fundamental relationship. Jessica Lindsay looks at the gay guy/straight girl friendship and why it’s more sacred than ever before. local queens and performers. Straight women can probably relate most to gay men, more than straight men, or lesbian women, so there has long been that friendship there.” But Woods states that there’s a fine line in these friendships and that the Fag Hag can often be poked fun at as an “invader of gay spaces and appropriator of gay styles.” He goes on to explain that “ the generally unwelcome phenomenon of hen parties invading gay clubs may be a consequence of the popularising of the Fag Hag role, which implied that gay men must like the company of straight women in all circumstances barring the sexual.” It’s no secret that in television and film, the gay best friend often plays a tokenistic role, offering sassy bites of advice and saying “Ooh, girl” while snapping his fingers. They rarely have their own storylines or love interests. IRL, though, human beings are seldom as one-dimensional. Issues arise when people begin assuming they can treat gay men as snappily dressed shoulders to cry on, who take you shopping and spoon you without getting a boner. Ruth Langsford, Loose Women host and owner of a haircut that wants to speak to your manager, got in hot water recently after calling gay men the “must-have accessory that every woman needs” on the daytime show. Personally, I can distinguish my friends from a Fendi, but maybe that ’s just me. Either way, it displays how absolutely out of touch some women are. Get in the bin, Ruth. It’s massively important for all of us (that means me and all the other Beckys, Olivias and Katies out there) to stop just looking at the fun stereotype and start understanding the actual issues in the queer world, as well as the person we’re actually talking to. We can still have as many gay friends as we want but listening and learning about where this reductive behaviour comes from and how it affects someone is imperative. Intersectionality is something both groups can (barring the hellish piece of trash that is Milo Yiannopoulus) get down with, as the struggle to be heard and make change creates common ground. Woods says that probably the first Fag Hag to
exist was Diotima in Plato’s Symposium who found similarities with the gay men and was listened to as an equal. He points out that this mix of close friendship and shared values can allow us to keep each other in check, saying during the period of second wave feminism, gay men appreciated their female friends “constantly pointing out gay male privilege and calling out the sexism of lots of gay male humour (including ‘Fag Hag’ itself ).” Recently, there has been much debate in LGBT+ communities around internalised homophobia, sexism and racism. “No fems, no Asians, no blacks” is not an uncommon phrase to see on hookup apps, and this has prompted introspection and furthered the need for groups to come together and embrace a more inclusive attitude. Plus, a certain, orange, small-loan-of-a-million-dollars receiving individual has managed to slither his way into the White House, making it more important than ever to unite on the side of not regressing back to the 1940s. So how do we do this? Well, Woods’s advice is the simplest to follow: “Perhaps straight people in general could recognise that there is such a thing, and start taking it seriously. It isn’ t just a matter of camp humour and natty interior decoration.” For the queer community, my advice is useless. You’ve all been dealing with this since the dawn of time and have most likely developed a GIFworthy facial expression to fend off girls who try to fetishise you. I do have one request for you, though: Please, tell my straight white ass to shut the hell up if you hear me call you “kween”, and never let me do a splits drop ever again – that stuff hurts.
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