5 stunning properties with a view 37 EXCITING EVENTS
INSIDE
THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SUMMER 2016
ME
E GAZIN MB E R M A
OF T H E
YEAR
The most legendary
120 STONES
DAYS OUT
GO HOME TO ELGIN
INCLUDING
Dumbarton Castle Urquhart Castle Elgin Cathedral Trinity House Skara Brae
Medieval mischief
Discover the magnificent moated Caerlaverock Castle
OUTLANDER
A LOVE AFFAIR WITH SCOTLAND
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HISTORICAL
TRIPS THE HISTORY THAT SHAPED US
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Zulu! The Zulu wars
City of Spies Cold War Berlin
Brothers in Arms The Spanish Civil War
No Greater Courage Russia and the Great Patriotic War
Warriors of Christ The Knights Templar in France
The Great War An Introduction to the Western Front
The Darts of Love The Six Wives of Henry VIII
The Sugar Barons Profit & Plunder in the Caribbean
All Men Dream But Not Equally Lawrence of Arabia
Secret War with Paddy Ashdown & Martyn Cox
Red Heat The Cuban Revolution
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To the Ends of the Earth The Medieval Pilgrimage
Churchill’s Warriors The Women of SOE
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HISTORICAL
TRIPS THE HISTORY THAT SHAPED US
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Welcome to
A FRIEND
If you like history with a stunning backdrop, summer is the perfect time to explore Historic Scotland properties. From neolithic settlements to medieval castles, our sites often come with a breathtaking vista. The challenge has been to shortlist them for our feature ‘Five views of history’. Turn to page 26 to compare our choice to yours. Heading for Dumfries and Galloway in a campervan, a family of intrepid explorers discover the legends and love stories behind Caerlaverock Castle, and Sweetheart and Dundrennan abbeys. Read about their adventures on page 32. The past and present come crashing together in popular drama Outlander. On page 22 we meet Ronald D Moore, its writer and producer, to hear how Historic Scotland properties were used for some of its dramatic scenes. Following the recent return of more than 120 stone carvings to Elgin Cathedral from our conservation centre in Edinburgh, we meet the team of experts who brought them back to life. Learn how a bishop’s effigy has been transformed by LED lighting and find out what lies behind carved heads. See page 44. We focus on the inspiring collaboration between Scottish designers and students of art and design for the New Renaissance project. See the results of their innovative work at Stirling Castle and read about it on page 4. Finally, on page 50 you will find an events section packed with ideas for activities and days out this summer.
INTRODUCE
HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Contributors BOB TEVENDALE View from outdoors (p17) An expert on the wildlife, plants and landscapes of the nation’s historic sites, Bob is natural history adviser for Historic Environment Scotland.
SEE PAGE 49
CLAIRE BOWIE Membership and CRM Manager
MALCOLM COCHRANE, COLIN MEARNS, SONY PICTURES TELEVISION
5 big things to see and do this issue 1
Enter our annual photo competition P14
2
Discover the sites used for Outlander P22
3
Celebrate 200 years of Trinity House P38
4
Marvel at Elgin Cathedral’s carvings
5
Spend summer nights with Shakespeare P52
P44
IAN MARLAND Family fortunes (p32) A former news editor at The Herald, Ian is a freelance journalist living in Glasgow who edits a hyperlocal news site.
Doune Castle featuring in Outlander
KATHLEEN NUTT Home front (p22) A freelance journalist based in Glasgow, Kathleen writes primarily for The Herald, The National and The Times.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 1
LOOK INSIDE HISTORIC SCOTLAND SUMMER 2016 51 | See spectacular jousting at Linlithgow Palace on 2 and 3 July
Historic Environment Scotland Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH 0131 668 8600 historic-scotland.gov.uk Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 members@hes.scot Editorial enquiries members@hes.scot Membership and CRM Manager Claire Bowie Assistant Membership Manager Morag Paterson Membership Co-ordinator Pauline Brews Editor Kathleen Morgan kathleen.morgan@thinkpublishing.co.uk Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Design Matthew Ball, John Pender, Victoria Axelson Sub-editors Sam Bartlett, Sian Campbell, Kirsty Fortune, Craig Gibson Editorial Assistant Jonathan McIntosh Contributor Hannah Lazarus Advertising Sales Jamie Dawson jamie.dawson@thinkpublishing.co.uk 020 3771 7221 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Environment Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785 or email images@hes.scot Historic Scotland is published quarterly and printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials. The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Environment Scotland. All information is correct at the time of going to press. SONY PICTURES TELEVISION, SIMON MURPHY, SHUTTERSTOCK, JEREMY SUTTON!HIBBERT, PAUL WILLIAMS
Š Historic Environment Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager of Historic Environment Scotland. Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is a Non Departmental Public Body established by the Historic Environment Scotland Act 2014. HES has assumed the property, rights, liabilities and obligations of Historic Scotland and RCAHMS. Visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ historicenvironmentscotland Scottish Charity No. SC045925. Cover: Simon Murphy
22 | Behind the scenes with Ronald D Moore, the creator of Outlander 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
18 | We turn a spotlight on the story of New Abbey Corn Mill
50
26 | Rooms with a view at Skara Brae
EVENTS
Brighten up your summer with our packed programme of activities happening at sites right across the country
38 | Conservation conversation
32 | The south-west proves best Shetland
PLACES TO VISIT
THIS SUMMER
Skara Brae P26
REGULARS
4 THE SCRIPT News and updates from Historic Scotland sites around the country 49 MEMBERSHIP 50 EVENTS 56 GUESS THE YEAR FEATURES
Elgin Cathedral P44 Edzell Castle P11
Tantallon Castle P7
44 | Why Elgin’s carvings have got their smiles back
Trinity Glasgow Cathedral House P38 P25 New Abbey Corn Mill P18 Dundrennan Abbey P37
22 OUTLANDER INSIGHTS Ronald D Moore, creator of the hit TV series, reveals why he now calls Scotland home 26 FAMOUS FIVE A quality quintet of fabulous historical attractions set within breathtaking landscapes 32 OUT AND ABOUT Join the Marland family on their voyage
of discovery to properties on the ‘secret south-west coast’ 38 MY DAY AS … Deputy editor Fiona McKinlay learns the art of collections management at Trinity House 44 ELGIN ENDEAVOUR We meet the experts working to conserve the north-eastern cathedral’s collection of exquisite carvings
FIND US ON HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 3
SCRIPT THE
PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH AND
MORE …
INCLUDING
The story behind the geometric design of Fort George Why a castle garden can prove a powerful tool Bob Tevendale discovers a haven for wildlife Shoot a winning image for our photography competition
Sally-Ann Provan points out some of Stirling Castle’s inspirational objects to students Tassia Pope, Sarah Carswell and Dawn McLaren
FASHION FIT FOR ROYALTY Designers mentor students to create pieces inspired by the past, writes Fiona McKinlay
A TRIO of designers, including a milliner for stage and screen, has collaborated with Scottish students to create fashion items inspired by the Renaissance style of Stirling Castle. Sally-Ann Provan, who created hats for the Disney stage musical The Lion King, joined jewellery maker Laura Murray and costume designer Diana Guthrie-James for the New Renaissance project. The resulting pieces, including headpieces and jewellery, will be exhibited this summer at Stirling Castle. The students’ work graced the catwalk at the castle’s In Vogue event in May. 4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
The students spend weeks developing their ideas in sketchbooks
The castle’s spectacular palace, commissioned by James V for his queen, Mary of Guise, drew on the fashions of the European Renaissance to proclaim his power.
“We looked to the palace part of Stirling Castle for inspiration,” explains Sally-Ann, an award-winning hatmaker who trained under the Queen Mother’s milliner.
“We took our colour palette from there – black, white, red and gold. In a lot of the portraiture of the time, most of the sitters are wearing these colours. Obviously, fabrics that had gold woven through them were very expensive. White fabrics such as lace were expensive because they were difficult to keep clean.” Sally-Ann mentored the students in the education centre of Stirling Castle over seven weeks as they created their pieces. The students, in the first year of an HND course in art and design at Forth Valley College, spent weeks researching and developing ideas in
MARY OF GUISE FASHION FIT FOR A QUEEN
PALE INTO SIGNIFICANCE White pearls emphasise the pale skin
SHINING THROUGH The brocade features gold and silver gilt threads
The students adjust their fashion creations from a previous project
JEREMY SUTTON!HIBBERT
sketchbooks before working with wire on their pieces. Sally-Ann says: “We wanted to create pieces that make a statement. It’s lovely for the students to be in different surroundings. It feels very alive.” Laura, who worked with adult learners from Artlink Central, says: “The metal pomanders used in the Renaissance influenced some designs. Students have had their own take on these. We have a brooch by Martyn McGoven that conceals lovely lavender and clove scents. The fashions of Mary of Guise have particularly influenced the group’s pieces.” Diana, a costume designer working with Historic Environment Scotland (HES), jumped at the chance to share her skills. “We started with a
full session at the castle,” she says. “We looked at motifs and architecture, and let them try on some of the costumes. We looked at black work in particular – black stitches on a white background – used extensively in the 16th century to decorate collars and cuffs. There are references to historical techniques and styles in everybody’s work.” The project is led by HES Learning Services in partnership with Craft Scotland through their Meet Your Maker programme, and celebrates the Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design. The New Renaissance exhibition is in the Nether Bailey Exhibition Space, Stirling Castle, until September. Visit stirlingcastle.gov.uk
PUMP UP THE VOLUME White silk pokes through slashes in the sleeves, giving volume
FABULOUS FUR Expensive ermine provides rich texture and luxury
RENAISSANCE STYLE BIRTH OF GLOBAL FASHION The 1 Renaissance witnessed trade routes opening up across the globe. Professor Ulinka Rublack of Cambridge University explains: “Tailoring was transformed by new materials and techniques in cutting and sewing, as well as the desire for a tighter fit to emphasise the body’s form.”
SELF!IMAGE People 2 became more self-aware as the use of mirrors increased. Prof Rublack says: “Print circulated more information about dress across the world as the genre of ‘costume books’ was born.” SUMPTUARY LAWS These were 3 used to dictate which fabric and finish people
of different ranks could wear. “Elites tried to preserve the signalling of high rank through fine clothing,” says Prof Rublack. “Sumptuary laws, dating from Roman times and called after the Latin word ‘sumptus’, meaning expense, had multiplied during the Renaissance. These sought to limit the amount of money wealthy people could spend on apparel.”
Sally-Ann shows the Forth Valley College students how to work with wire HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 5
SECRETS OF A GEOMETRIC BASTION
Exhibition shines a light on Fort George, writes Steve Farrar, interpretation office AN EXHIBITION is lifting the lid off Britain’s bestpreserved fort to reveal the inner workings of its remarkable defences. Interactive displays and colourful panels will guide visitors through the history of Fort George to discover how and why it was built in its distinctive geometric style. Fort George: Bastion of Britain tells how the
stronghold used a host of intricate structures to fend off would-be attackers and endure a siege. Built over 22 years in the wake of the Battle of Culloden, which ended the last Jacobite Rising, it was completed in 1769. The largest building project Scotland had ever known, it was said to have cost the equivalent of the country’s entire annual GDP.
The fort was the brainchild of military engineer William Skinner, its first governor. Its design drew on contemporary military theories, as well as the experience of sieges in the last Jacobite Rising and wars across the world. However, Fort George’s impressive defences were never tested, as an attack never came. The exhibition, launched during the Year of Innovation,
Architecture and Design, is set in a bombproof vaulted chamber or casemate within the fort’s rampart. In an imaginative touch, visitors can explore the fort’s shape and form by building and demolishing ramparts on a pinball table. Fort George: Bastion of Britain is a permanent exhibition at Fort George
FORT GEORGE FACTS FIT FOR A KING Created for the army of George II following the 1745 Jacobite Rising. SECOND WORLD WAR From 1943, the fort played a key role in rehearsals for the D-Day Landings. PRESENT DAY The Black Watch 3rd Battalion, Royal Regiment of Scotland, is now based here. 6 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
The defences of Fort George were never tested
THE SCRIPT
A 17th-century trench has been excavated at Tantallon Castle
Duff House, Aberdeenshire
GRAND DESIGNS Pupils create learning tools inspired by Duff House
EXPERTS UNCOVER HISTORY OF EMBATTLED CASTLE
SHUTTERSTOCK
Investigation into 14th-century fortress reaps rewards ARCHAEOLOGISTS are unlocking the secrets of Tantallon Castle following an excavation at the formidable fortress. The latest dig included investigations of a trench once used by Oliver Cromwell’s attacking forces. The castle, overlooking the Forth Estuary and North Sea, has a history punctuated by sieges. It was attacked by King James IV in 1491, his son James V in 1528 and, finally, in 1651, Cromwell’s invading forces. Adrian Cox, cultural resources advisor, said: “The narrow trench excavated at the castle’s westernmost outer ditch revealed that it was used during
the last of those battles to shelter a besieging force as they worked to overcome the castle’s artillery defences. The ditch had been provided with a stepped profile so Cromwell’s troops could fire over its edge and had been carefully lined with turf. “Intriguingly, it also seems the ditch had earlier origins, and had been modified during the siege.” A team from Historic Environment Scotland and Kirkdale Archaeology carried out the archaeological work
at Tantallon during 2015, following their earlier excavations at the site in 2013–14. A range of skills was required to interpret the complex archaeology revealed in the castle’s inner close, where the wellpreserved remains of post-medieval garden features were discovered. These add a new dimension to the castle’s story. Adrian said: “Many volunteers joined us in the archaeological work, and visitors took advantage of the regular guided tours of the Adrian Cox shows excavations. On visitors the latest dig the final weekend of the dig, historical re-enactors joined the archaeologists, adding a living history element and entertaining the visitors.”
A GRAND Georgian mansion has inspired school pupils to help other young learners get their tongues round the Scots language. As part of Oor Hoose, an educational project, eight S4–S6 pupils from Banff Academy visited nearby Duff House. The pupils chose objects and features that had captured their imagination, including a chandelier, paintings, furniture and shrapnel marks. They were also inspired by architectural drawings for the house designed by William Adam. They then created learning tools linked to the objects, including quizzes, riddles and Scots language signs. Sylvie Clarke, learning development officer, said: “These tools could help introduce other visitors to the language, as well as help them discover more about Duff House.” NUMBER CRUNCH
2,672
The number of gunpowder barrels the grand magazine at Fort George is designed to hold. It now houses the Seafield Collection of 18th-century military equipment.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 7
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THE SCRIPT
RAISE THE ROOF
Every ten years the Blackhouse in Arnol requires rethatching, reports Lucy Vaughan, head of conservation for the north of Scotland THE Blackhouse at Arnol village on the Isle of Lewis is thatched in a very particular way. Rather than carefully laying down the straw in one direction, it is laid randomly and held in position with a fishing net. This method originated due to a shortage of labour after the wars, forcing the community to find an easier and quicker approach. Today, we maintain the roof by topping up areas of thatch each year and every ten years rethatching the roof in its entirety. This spring,
The rethatched roof with its fishing net cover, top, and being repaired, left; and the scaffolding used in this year’s overhaul
a full rethatching was undertaken jointly by Historic Environment Scotland stonemasons and local thatchers from Arnol, and co-ordinated by Colin Grant our Assistant Works Manager. Arnol locals have been passing on their expertise to Colin so he can keep alive this thatching tradition. The methods used are all
Abandoned ruins on the lochside of Papadil on the Isle of Rum
HIGHLAND FLING
CPL DAVE BLACKBURN/CROWN COPYRIGHT
Military tattoo will be September highlight
SET against the striking backdrop of Fort George – the largest military fort in the UK – the Highland Military Tattoo showcases local, military and international culture. The tattoo, from 9-11 September, will begin with an RAF Typhoon flypast and culminate in a fireworks spectacular. Visit highlandmilitarytattoo.com
traditional. It begins with removing all of the thatch and maintaining or replacing the timber beams. Then a layer of turf is placed on top of the beams to create a base for the thatch to sit upon. Once the straw is laid, a fishing net weighed down by stones is used to secure it all in place. The whole process takes more than eight weeks.
The Blackhouse of Arnol has reopened and welcomes visitors to explore its history. For more information visit www.historic-scotland.gov. uk/blackhouse Sign up to receive Focus magazine to hear more about our conservation work. Contact technicaleducation@hes.scot or call 0131 668 8638.
ISLANDS IN THE STREAM The story of Hebridean islands Rum, Eigg, Canna and Muck is traced in a book to be published in June by Historic Environment Scotland. The Small Isles, by historian John Hunter, is available priced at £25 from Booksource. Call 0845 370 0067 or email orders@booksource.net Readers can receive a 20% discount by quoting the code HISTORIC20.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 9
Experience over 200 years of history at New Lanark World Heritage Site! Visitor Centre • Mill Shops & Café • Picnic Areas Falls of Clyde waterfalls & woodland walks Details at: www.newlanark.org
“The history is tremendous. Well worth a visit” “Very interesting - there is so much to see!” “A great attraction for adults & children alike” “We can’t wait to go back - a lovely day out!” www.newlanark.org | 01555 661345 | trust@newlanark.org New Lanark Mills, Lanark, ML11 9DB (Around 1 hour from Glasgow & Edinburgh)
THE SCRIPT
NEWS IN BRIEF
CAN DO MORE l Scotland’s Urban Past is inviting the public to record a tiny piece of history by contributing to Canmore, the nation’s online catalogue of archaeology, buildings and heritage. Visit scotlandsurbanpast. org.uk/urban-detectives and look out for themed campaigns over the next few years to help expand the collection.
CANMORE; SHUTTERSTOCK
CATHEDRAL TOURS l The Society of Friends of Dunblane Cathedral is offering guided tours on Sundays in July and August. No booking is needed, with tours offered on request to visitors at any time between 2pm and 4pm each Sunday.
BE PREPARED l Due to unforeseeable circumstances some Historic Scotland properties may need to close unexpectedly. Any unplanned closures will be flagged up on social media. Keep up to date and check Twitter @welovehistory or #hsclosure
Historic Environment Scotland apprentice stonemason Megan Crawford
PLAN LAUNCHED TO ENHANCE THE NATION’S HERITAGE
Historic Environment Scotland publishes three-year strategy THE lead public body for Scotland’s heritage sector has unveiled its first corporate plan at an event in Paisley’s 13th-century abbey. Historic Environment Scotland (HES) published its vision for the next three years, explaining how it would champion, investigate and care for the nation’s world-renowned heritage. The organisation, launched in October, has wide-ranging responsibilities from grant funding to research and training to conservation. It also manages more than 300 Historic Scotland properties. At the event, HES unveiled a new brand inspired by a keystone – the section at the top of an arch that locks the other pieces in place. The keystone symbolises the organisation’s crucial collaborative role in the heritage sector. Historic Scotland will remain part of the HES brand family. Visitors will still see the Historic Scotland
brand at properties, and all services will continue as usual. A new HES website offers the chance to access information on great days out, download the Historic Scotland visitor app and hear the views of staff on its blogs. Visitors to the site can also discover the stories behind
fascinating HES collections before they visit properties, and find out more about the work of the organisation. Find out about HES at historicenvironment.scot and our new social media channels, facebook.com/ HistoricEnvScotland and @HistEnvScot. To plan your visits you can still follow @welovehistory and facebook. com/visithistoricscotland
THE FIVE KEY THEMES LEAD HES will fulfil a leading and enabling role through our activities and by supporting and empowering others. PROTECT Regulation, conservation, collection and investment will enable us to
enhance protection of the historic environment. UNDERSTAND HES will increase knowledge and understanding through research, investigation and recording. VALUE We will promote the value of the historic
environment through education, learning, outreach and skill sharing. PERFORM HES will create a high-performing organisation equipped to meet current and future challenges, improving the way we work and the service we provide.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 11
THE SCRIPT
SUMMER
GIFT SHOP ARRIVALS
OUR 2017 CALENDAR
£3.50 Celebrating the year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, this calendar traces Scotland’s long heritage through a different era each month.
BONNIE BEAR
EDINBURGH MAP RANGE
£29.99 {EXCLUSIVE TO EDINBURGH CASTLE} Exclusively designed for Edinburgh Castle, Bonnie proudly sports a Harris Tweed-inspired dress and bow. With only 1,500 available, you’d better be quick.
£2.50-£12.00 {EXCLUSIVE TO EDINBURGH CASTLE} Capturing Edinburgh’s iconic landmarks, this quirky map illustration appears on tea towels, fridge magnets and much more.
BUY ME
All items a re also ava ilable onlin at historice scotland.g ov.uk /sho For a 20% p discount u se the cod MEMBER1 e 015
EDINBURGH BATTLEMENT RANGE £2.50-£16.00 {EXCLUSIVE TO EDINBURGH CASTLE} Inspired by Edinburgh Castle’s defensive architecture, this vibrant range includes magnets, keyrings and mugs.
EDINBURGH KIDS’ RANGE
£1.50-£12.00 {EXCLUSIVE TO EDINBURGH CASTLE} These colourful goodies feature some of Scotland’s most notable historical figures – including Mary Queen of Scots. 12 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
ORKNEY RANGE
£1.99-£17.00 {EXCLUSIVE TO MAESHOWE} Notebooks, mugs and t-shirts offer perfect souvenirs of the evocative Orkney archipelago and iconic Maeshowe dragon.
VIKING KIDS’ RANGE
£2.50-£12.00 {EXCLUSIVE TO MAESHOWE} Boasting a Viking bear, t-shirt, drawstring bag and hairy magnet, this collection will help you unleash your inner warrior.
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
SHOOTING STARS
THIS YEAR’S CATEGORIES
FIND YOUR FOCUS AT OUR PROPERTIES
Work magic with your camera and you could win an iPad mini by taking pictures of our historic sites
YOUTH Inviting members aged 16 and under to show us their skills across any of the other categories.
HOW TO ENTER Submit entries by email to hs.photos@ thinkpublishing.co.uk or send digital images on CD to HS Photography Competition, Think Scotland, Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA. The closing date is 14 October 2016. Please include your name, address, telephone number,
14 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
membership number and email address. For each image, indicate the category and the Historic Scotland property it was taken at or near. Files should be no larger than 6MB and saved with a relevant name such as Brodgar_Junior_ YourName.jpg. Winners will be announced in the spring 2017 issue of Historic Scotland.
NATURE The natural environment around our properties can hold much beauty – plants, animals, rivers and more.
RHYS MCQUEEN; FRASER HEATHERINGTON; JONATHAN CRUIKSHANK; DOUGLAS SEWELL; CHARLES KENT BROOKS
IT’S that time of the year when we ask you to show us your finest images taken in and around our sites. There are more than 300 locations to choose from, and we know many of you have some serious skills behind the lens. We invite entries in four adult categories: properties, nature, having fun and architecture (in honour of the Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design), and our youth category for snappers under 16. Adult entrants are invited to submit no more than one picture per category (four in total), while entrants to the junior category may submit up to four. Images must be taken in or around Historic Scotland properties. The overall winner nets an Apple iPad mini, while category winners are offered a year’s Historic Scotland membership renewal. The judging panel’s favourite submissions could also feature in the Historic Scotland calendar or online.
THE SCRIPT
RULES PROPERTIES Show us your finest shots of Historic Scotland properties, whether it’s a perfectly captured classic composition or a new and unique take.
1. An entrant can submit a maximum of four photographs. 2. Entries must be taken in or near Historic Scotland properties. 3. All images must be submitted as digital files. 4. Digital images should be high resolution and submitted by email or on CD. Each image should not exceed 6MB in size. 5. All entries are sent at the photographer’s risk and Historic Environment Scotland cannot accept liability for damage or loss. Entries will not be returned to entrants. All photos must be legally obtained, with permission if appropriate. 6. Entrants must be the sole author and owner of copyright for all images entered. 7. Copyright in all images submitted for this competition remains with the respective entrants. Photos submitted for the competition may be featured in future Historic Scotland calendars, or used online. Where an image is used in the magazine or Historic Scotland calendar, the photographer will be credited. However, in consideration of entering the competition, each entrant grants Historic Environment Scotland a licence to feature competition images in the publication, online or in promotional material connected to Historic Environment Scotland. 8. The competition is not open to employees of Historic Environment Scotland or Think. 9. Winners will be notified by 10 April 2017. 10. Historic Environment Scotland reserves the right to cancel this competition or alter any of the rules, if necessary. 11. If the winner is unable to be contacted after reasonable attempts, Historic Environment Scotland reserves the right to either offer the prize to a runner-up or to re-offer the prize in any future competition. 12. These rules are governed by the laws of Scotland. 13. The decision of the judges is final. 14. The first prize includes an iPad mini. The prize is subject to availability. If, for any reason, it becomes unavailable, we reserve the right to supply a suitable alternative prize of similar value. 15. Entrants must be a Historic Scotland member or, in the Youth category, their parent/guardian must be a Historic Scotland member. 16. The judging panel will be made up of the Historic Scotland membership and photographic teams, and the editor and publisher of Historic Scotland magazine.
WIN AN IPAD MINI
HAVING FUN Capture the atmosphere of one of our events, your family having their #bestdayever or anything else that reflects the theme of fun.
ARCHITECTURE Use your camera to bring out the finest architectural features of our properties, from gargoyles to finials and lots more besides.
Each category winner will receive a year’s Historic Scotland renewal membership. The overall winner will also receive an iPad mini. Some of the images by the competition winners and runners-up could feature on the Historic Scotland website. The winners will be announced in spring 2017.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 15
THE SCRIPT N AV I G A T I O N
ALL MAPPED OUT
RESTING PLACES
Scots have led creatively and technologically for centuries. We introduce four Scottish innovators who are – or could be – buried at Historic Scotland properties
ST ANDREWS CATHEDRAL GLASGOW CATHEDRAL
MELROSE ABBEY
SWEETHEART ABBEY
CHARLES MACINTOSH !1766%1843) INVENTED THE RAIN MAC Glasgow Cathedral
DAVID BREWSTER !1781%1868) INVENTED THE KALEIDOSCOPE Melrose Abbey
While Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh was searching for a use for waste products of gasworks, he discovered coal-tar naphtha could dissolve India rubber. This led to him patenting a method of waterproofing cloth in 1823 and the invention of the mac. DID YOU KNOW? Glasgow Cathedral is the only medieval cathedral on the Scottish mainland to have survived the Protestant Reformation of 1560.
Scottish physicist David Brewster was drawn away from his profession in the church by his interest in science. He began investigating light in 1799, and invented the kaleidoscope in 1816. It was hugely successful, with 200,000 sold in London and Paris in just three months. DID YOU KNOW? The heart of Robert the Bruce is also believed buried in the chapter house at Melrose Abbey.
WILLIAM PATERSON !1685%1719) CO!FOUNDER OF THE BANK OF ENGLAND Sweetheart Abbey Scottish economist William Paterson was one of the first to propose a solution for the English Parliament’s war debt, leading to his involvement in the foundation of the Bank of England in 1694. He also helped establish the Royal Bank of Scotland in 1727. It is thought he is buried at Sweetheart Abbey. DID YOU KNOW? Sweetheart Abbey symbolises spiritual and worldly love.
ADAM FERGUSON (1723–1816) FATHER OF MODERN SOCIOLOGY St Andrews Cathedral Adam Ferguson was a Scottish philosopher and intellectual historian. A forerunner of sociology and a leader in the ‘common sense’ school of philosophy, he focused on social and human interaction as the source of human morality. DID YOU KNOW? St Andrews Cathedral was the seat of the medieval Scottish church from the 12th century to the eve of the Scottish Protestant Reformation in 1559.
FARMING THE PAST
Auchindrain gives a taste of what rural life was like for its inhabitants
16 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
VISITORS are being given a hands-on experience of life on a Highland farm township at an Argyll settlement. A walk through the 22-acre site at Auchindrain, near Inveraray, offers a glimpse of everyday life in the old Highlands and
the chance to explore its byres, stables and fields. The site shows how groups of families formed close-knit communities and worked the land together. By around 1850 most townships had disappeared from Scotland due to the Highland Clearances. For information and admission prices visit auchindrain.org.uk
SHUTTERSTOCK, TIM HAYNES, WELLCOME LIBRARY LONDON
Unearth Scottish agricultural heritage
THE THESCRIPT SCRIPT
WIN The site is a haven for wildlife
COLOURING BOOKS
Wild frontiers
MALCOLM COCHRANE, DUNCAN HALE!SUTTON / ALAMY, SIMON COLMER / ALAMY, BLICKWINKEL / ALAMY
Natural history adviser Bob Tevendale discovers a world of wonder along the Antonine Wall Friends, Romans, countrymen … the Antonine Wall is one of the architectural wonders of the historic environment in Scotland – inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The most important and complete sections are managed by ourselves. Many parts of the wall are valuable not only as historical sites, but also for their natural heritage. Along its length are important wildlife habitats, including old woodland, unimproved grassland, ponds and wetlands, providing homes for protected species such as bats, otters and great crested newts. Old woodland – more properly termed semi-natural ancient woodland – is natural forestry that has remained relatively undisturbed. It can be identified on maps dating back to the 1750s. Ancient woodlands are important as they contain unique and complex communities of trees, plants, fungi, micro-organisms and insects – communities that have evolved over hundreds of years. Antonine Wall sites containing ancient woodland include Seabegs Wood and Dullatur. FACT: BAT’S IMPRESSIVE Bats live much longer than most mammals of their size – 20 years is not uncommon. The Brandt’s bat, found in southern Scotland, has a potential lifespan of more than 40 years.
VIEW FROM OUTDOORS
Of particular importance within these woodlands are old and diseased trees. Fallen trunks, cut stumps and old trees with rot holes and other forms of decay are important to insects, birds and bats. Removal of dead and dying wood is bad for nature conservation and we avoid it where possible, rather leaving dead wood in piles. Trees with holes and cracks are important as bat roosts. Bats are protected under European legislation, so we carefully survey trees for bats and potential roosts before carrying out tree work. Another protected species is the great crested newt. This amphibian requires a network of ponds and ditches to thrive, and prefers to avoid fish, which may eat its young. The terrain around Croy Hill is ideal, and forms part of a wider network of ponds specially managed by the Forest Authority for this rare species. Croy Hill is largely unimproved grassland, containing many nationally rare plants such as marsh pennywort, greater butterfly orchid, water forget-me-not and bottle sedge. Many of the Antonine Wall sites are popular with bird watchers. Rough Castle, for example, is used by skylarks, spotted flycatchers, green woodpeckers and kestrels. The wall as a whole is also valuable as a navigational guide. Natural linear features provide important wildlife corridors, allowing species to migrate from area to area. Features such as this become more important as natural areas become increasingly isolated.
It’s been popular among kids for ages, but only recently has colouring-in become all the rage for adults too. Colouring Scotland, illustrated by Glasgow School of Art graduate Laura Henderson, features striking line drawings of Scottish icons and landmarks. We have ten copies to give away. For your chance to win, answer the following: PRIZE QUESTION Edinburgh Castle and Glasgow Cathedral both feature in this colouring book – but which one lies further north? Post your answer and details to HS Colouring Scotland Competition, Think Scotland, Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA, or email hs.comps@thinkpublishing. co.uk (including “HS Colouring Scotland Competition” in the subject line). Closing date is 15 July. BUY ME Colouring Scotland by Laura Henderson is published by Freight Books, RRP £8.99.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 17
THE SCRIPT
Spotlight on
NEW ABBEY CORN MILL This remarkably well-preserved property offers a captivating insight into bygone days of Scottish rural life
TIMELINE 1273 Cistercian community established at Sweetheart Abbey nearby
18 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
difficult to comprehend just how central this type of smallscale enterprise – where people grew their crop and had it milled locally – was to the lives of our ancestors. Be sure to take in the mill’s main attractions, including the visitor centre (located in the original miller’s home), the delicate machinery, the kiln where the harvested corn was dried, and the long, meandering mill lade. Once commonplace in Europe, small mills have all but vanished. As you listen to the rhythmic undulations of the waterwheel powering the machinery from the duckfilled Pow Burn, you’ll be transported to a bygone era, reinforcing the mill’s cultural and agricultural importance.
EXPLORE
DUMFRIES NEW ABBEY
New Abbey The site is a 17-minute car journey from Dumfries. Open 9.30am-5.30pm until 30 September. Visit historic-scotland.gov. uk/newabbey
KILN Grain was spread on the perforated iron floor to dry above the fire
The mill is a reminder of how Scots used to produce food
C1300
POST&1560
1790s
1799
1825
First mill built on site by Cistercian monks. It is still known locally as the “Monks’ Mill”
The mill is annexed by the state after the Reformation
Stewart of Shambellie buys, demolishes and rebuilds the mill
Milling deregulated by parliament bringing an end to the heavy tax
Thomas Miller is the first recorded miller, followed by his son Alexander
SOUTH WEST IMAGES SCOTLAND / ALAMY
BORDERING the picturesque village of New Abbey, this charming whitewashed building provides a fascinating glimpse into how oatmeal, a staple of the Scottish diet, was once made. The Stewarts of Shambellie built the present building towards the end of the 18th century. The site dates back, though, to the 13th century, when Dervorgilla Balliol established the nearby Sweetheart Abbey for Cistercian monks. Agricultural improvements during the 18th century allowed farmers to substantially improve their crop harvests, which led to the building of the present mill. Formerly two storeys high, it was extended to three in the 19th century, with the number of millstones increasing from two to three. The mill prospered for more than a century. Its first recorded custodian was Thomas Miller, in residence in around 1825 – who probably had this name because of his or his forefather’s profession. Production at the site ended with the death of John Clingan, the final miller, in 1948. In the modern era of fast food and supermarkets, it is
DID YOU KNOW? Millers often had the sign of a pig on their weather vane. There was always food to eat at a mill, so pigs grew fat – a sign of prosperity
SACK HOIST Originally, grain-filled sacks weighing 22 stone were carried to the loft from the lower levels. Using power from the mill machinery, this lift helped save time and effort
LOFT Added during the 1800s and used mainly for storage of the grain between various stages in the process HOPPERS Grain was fed into hoppers linking with millstones on the stones floor LAUNDER Water from the Pow Burn travelled along this channel, flowing down to the ninespoked waterwheel behind the mill STONES FLOOR The heart of the mill. Three sets of millstones worked to grind oats used as feed for animals and food for humans
SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT / ALAMY, SHUTTERSTOCK, JAMES STRINGER
BOULTING MACHINE Kernels and husks were separated in the boulting machine on ground floor. Husks and impurities were blown into the kiln for burning
WATERWHEEL The rotation of the waterwheel was translated into usable motion by a series of large greased gearwheels
1851
1860
1948
1970
1978
1983
New stones fitted and Alexander Miller makes alterations to the building, including addition of the loft
Robert Welsh is miller at the site until the turn of the century
The site closes following the death of the final miller, John Clingan
Following years of decline, the mill is bought by Charles Stewart of Shambellie and renovation begins
The mill is entrusted to state care
The mill reopens as a tourist attraction
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 19
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Ronald D Moore, executive producer of Outlander, at Doune Castle
HOME FRONT
The creator of Outlander explains why Scotland is the perfect setting for his hit television drama – and why he and his wife took the nation to their hearts
I
WORDS: KATHLEEN NUTT PHOTOGRAPH: ANGELA CATLIN
t has all the ingredients of a period drama – a historic mansion, a magnificent 14th-century castle and an idyllic rural backdrop. It even has a floppy-haired protagonist – the Hollywood executive producer and writer Ronald D Moore whose creation, Outlander, has captivated fans on both sides of the Atlantic. Moore has agreed to meet at his Perthshire home to talk about the Sony Pictures drama he has adapted from the Diana Gabaldon novels. At the end of a narrow lane, the 16th-century mansion house surrounded by expansive
grounds is the perfect retreat for a television executive used to the frenetic Los Angeles entertainment industry. I am shown into a dimly lit drawing room warmed by a fire and quiet enough to hear a watch tick. After a few minutes Moore appears with his wife, Terry Dresbach, the acclaimed designer whose costumes have helped Outlander fans make the imaginative leap from post-war 1945 to 18th-century Scotland. The couple, who met in 2003 while working together on the HBO drama Carnivàle, come across as warm and down to earth as they explain the lure of Scotland – as a location and a home.
C U LT U R E
SONY PICTURES TELEVISION
CASTLE LEOCH Historic Scotland property Doune Castle was transformed into a working 18th-century fortress to feature as the home of the Mackenzie family in Outlander
CLAIRE FRASER Caitriona Balfe as Claire, the heroine of Outlander, on her wedding day, and with Sam Heughan as Jamie Fraser at a Parisian dinner. The costumes were designed by Terry Dresbach HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 23
OUTLANDER
They have rented the house outside the village of Doune since filming for Outlander began three years ago. Nearby is Doune Castle, the magnificent 14th-century stronghold that stands in as Outlander’s fictional Castle Leoch. “It’s a different way of living and it’s been an amazing experience for all of us,” says Moore, whose children visit the couple during holiday times. “Scotland is home to me now,” adds Dresbach. “I’ve been on location all over the Americas, and we lived in Canada for a long time. But I have never been on any show where the country we were in played the kind of integral part Scotland does in Outlander. Scotland is another character in the show. I’ve never had such total immersion in a place before.” Since arriving in the country three years ago the couple have embraced its history and culture. Dresbach named her cocker spaniel pup Cuilean – Gaelic for puppy – and she enthuses about walking him to nearby hills and lochs. She and Moore enjoy village life in Doune, shopping locally, getting to know their neighbours and driving through the countryside listening to BBC radio. They take a close interest in Scottish politics, although from different perspectives. “We’ve had many an argument about Scottish independence,” says Dresbach. “Who leans which way will be unspoken, but it’s a fascinating time to be here.” The first season of Outlander was shown last year. The second, filmed between Scotland and the Czech capital Prague – which stands in as 18th-century Paris – is being broadcast in the UK on Amazon Prime and on the Starz network in the USA. The ‘outlander’ of the drama’s title is an
Sam Heughan and Caitriona Balfe wear lavish costumes designed by Terry Dresbach for season two
Scotland is home to me now. I’ve never been so immersed in a place Creative duo Dresbach and Moore
THE SOUND OF HISTORY
Sam Heughan lends his voice to Doune Castle His dulcet tones have won the hearts of Outlander fans. Now the actor behind Jamie, the drama’s fighter hero, has narrated new audioguide stops for Doune Castle. The voice of Sam Heughan takes visitors on a journey of discovery at the 14th-century stronghold. Jennifer Roxburgh, interpretation officer, said: “He tells us what it was 24 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
like to film at Doune, the work which went into preparing the site for the cast and film crew, and some behind-the-scenes secrets.” The Outlander recording adds to the SAM HEUGHAN existing guide which features The actor behind the voice of Terry Jones and Outlander hero Jamie Fraser takes includes clips of Monty visitors on a Python and the Holy Grail, descriptive journey filmed there in 1975. at Doune Castle
English nurse, Claire Randall, played by Irish actress Caitriona Balfe. Randall is mysteriously transported from 1945 to the 18th century while holidaying in the Scottish Highlands with her husband Frank, played by Tobias Menzies. In her new surroundings she meets Jamie Fraser, a young Scottish fighter portrayed by Dumfriesshire-born Sam Heughan. Moore’s idea for creating a television drama from Gabaldon’s stories of love, war and Jacobite rebellion came after Dresbach became a fan of the novels. The producer knew exactly where it should be filmed. “Scotland was the obvious choice,” he explains. “It is a story deeply rooted in Scottish history.” Most of the 200-strong crew, cast and extras were recruited locally. They include members of historical re-enactment groups and even a consultant herbalist. “It’s about Scotland, about Scottish people,” says Dresbach. “As an American I can bring an outsider’s view, but I can’t bring the DNA my crew can. They lend an authenticity that has brought an amazing element.” In the first season Doune Castle was the location used as the seat of the fictional Mackenzie family. Other Historic Scotland properties to feature included Linlithgow Palace, Blackness Castle, and Aberdour Castle and Gardens. Doune Castle dates back to the
SONY PICTURES TELEVISION, SHUTTERSTOCK
OUTLANDER
13th century, although most of the building as it stands today was built 100 or so years later for Robert Stewart, the 1st Duke of Albany. He ruled Scotland in all but name from 1388 until his death in 1420. One of the castle’s most striking parts is its 100ft tall gatehouse. Well preserved and standing dramatically on a hill overlooking the River Teith, it was an obvious location. Transforming the castle into a living and working 18th-century fortress, the set builders covered its courtyard with mud and soil. Around the inner perimeter temporary huts and shelters were erected to look like blacksmith’s shops, workshops and homesteads. The budget for the first season was around £50m – the most ever spent on a television series shot in Scotland. Designed by Dresbach, the costumes – 5,000 for the first and 10,000 for the second – were made by a team of 25 at the production’s studio base in Cumbernauld, along with external clothing manufacturers under contract. The Scotsmen wear tartan kilts and baggy white shirts in the first season, while the women wear wool dresses in muted shades of grey, green and brown. Only the red coats worn by government soldiers add a splash of colour. In season two the action moves to the French court in Paris, where the costumes are more lavish. The dresses are made from vibrant, rich silks, and the jackets and coats decorated in colourful, intricate embroidery. When we meet, Dresbach is preparing to exhibit some of the costumes in New York. Returning to Scotland she will start work on designs for the third series, to begin filming this autumn. Before then scripts need to be written, sets built and locations found. Although the action shifts to the Caribbean in the third season, Scotland will still feature. Each season is based on one of Gabaldon’s books and with eight already written and a ninth under way, how long will the TV show last? “Ideally we’ll be doing all the books in the series,” says Moore. Dresbach goes further, underlining her passion for her new home. “We’ll have grandchildren,” she says. “They will be raised in Scotland.” Outlander Season 2 is available on Amazon Prime Instant Video
TULLIBARDINE CHAPEL DOUNE CASTLE
GLASGOW CATHEDRAL
ABERDOUR CASTLE BLACKNESS CASTLE LINLITHGOW PALACE
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
Historic Scotland properties with a starring role in Outlander DOUNE CASTLE Set in stunning Stirlingshire countryside, the stronghold is transformed into Castle Leoch, home of the Mackenzie family. It also had roles in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, and Game of Thrones. GLASGOW CATHEDRAL One of Scotland’s grandest medieval churches, the cathedral in the centre of Glasgow is used to depict a hospital in Paris during the second series. ABERDOUR CASTLE Aberdour Castle on the Fife coast is one of the oldest stone castles in Scotland. Built in the 1100s, it later became the luxurious Renaissance home of Regent Morton, once Scotland’s most powerful
man. Its walled gardens and dovecot are highly regarded and the castle was used as the monastery in the first series of Outlander. BLACKNESS CASTLE Blackness Castle on the Firth of Forth was built in the 1400s for Sir George Crichton, admiral of Scotland. Its walls contain clues to its many guises, from a jail to an ammunitions depot. Blackness Castle stands in for Fort William, the Redcoats’ stronghold, in series one of Outlander. LINLITHGOW PALACE Linlithgow Palace was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots and a welcome stopping place for the royal court when travelling between
Edinburgh and Stirling castles. It even has its own Jacobite story, with wine for Bonnie Prince Charlie reputedly flowing from its elaborate fountain. It was used as the location for prison corridors and entrances in the first series, when Jamie Fraser is taken prisoner. TULLIBARDINE CHAPEL Tullibardine Chapel, near Crieff, was in real life the family chapel belonging to Bonnie Prince Charlie’s general Lord George Murray. He buried his infant daughter at the medieval church in 1740, and would have been interred at the same spot had he not led the Jacobite army to defeat at Culloden in 1746 and been forced into permanent exile.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 25
5
VIEWS HISTORY
SKARA BRAE PREHISTORIC VILLAGE
1
Neolithic settlement You will be transported back 5,000 years as you explore one of the bestpreserved prehistoric settlements in western Europe. Nestled against the Orcadian elements near the striking sandy shores of the Bay of Skaill, the Stone Age village is a
›
26 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
treat for the senses. Enjoy panoramic views of the rugged horizon and an opportunity to spot some of Orkney’s diverse wildflowers and birdlife. The site has been a font of discovery for artists, archaeologists and historians since it was uncovered by a storm in 1850. The rich array of artefacts unearthed – some on display at the visitors’ centre –
includes gaming dice, pottery and jewellery. The site is one of a group of extraordinary Neolithic monuments collectively recognised by UNESCO as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. Situated in such stunning environs, Skara Brae provides a deeply profound connection to our ancestors.
PAUL WILLIAMS
Take a journey back in time at some of the most breathtaking sites in Scotland. Jonathan McIntosh is your guide
D AY S O U T
The settlement of Skara Brae is an essential destination for visitors to the Orkney Islands
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2
4 5
3
1
Skara Brae An unforgettable voyage back 5,000 years 2
Urquhart Castle Medieval attraction with a turbulent history 3
Tantallon Castle Clifftop stronghold is a must for nature lovers 4
Castle Campbell Stately ruin with links to famous Scots figures 5
Cairnpapple Hill Once sacred burial site retains an air of mystery HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 27
D AY S O U T
Urquhart Castle is somewhere under the rainbow with incredible views
URQUHART CASTLE
2
Medieval stronghold Commanding spectacular views from a position overlooking Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle is one of the most visually arresting castles in the Highlands. Across more than 1,000 years, the fortification has witnessed some of the most thrilling chapters of Scotland’s history. 28 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
›
Urquhart endured military action from the 1200s until it was rendered indefensible in 1692. It reckoned with figures from Edward I, king of England, to the powerful MacDonald Lords of the Isles. In 1509 James IV awarded the barony of Urquhart to the Grant family under the instruction that they develop the castle and estate and the five-storey Grant Tower was built.
TANTALLON CASTLE
3
SHUTTERSTOCK, DEA / W. BUSS / GETTY IMAGES
Scotland’s last great castle An imposing stronghold rising from the craggy headlands overlooking the seabird colony on the Bass Rock, Tantallon is often considered one of Scotland’s last great castles. William Douglas began building the castle in the 1350s to reflect the power and wealth of his family, who later became the earls of Angus. With its extraordinarily thick and high enclosing stone walls, it has similar properties to defensive stone strongholds of the 1200s such as Bothwell Castle. But due to its clifftop
During the Jacobite Rising of 1689 the castle was garrisoned with government forces. When the last soldiers left in 1692 they blew up the stronghold. Having peered into the castle’s gloomy prison and fantasised about the banquets staged in the great hall, you will have worked up an appetite. The cafe offers tasty treats and panoramic views of the ruins.
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location, it only required significant defences along its landward side. The castle was severely damaged during a siege led by General Monck on Oliver Cromwell’s orders in 1651, but Tantallon’s 12ft thick red sandstone curtain wall remains remarkably intact. It offers exhilarating views of the foamy North Sea crashing against the rock face below. Explore the labyrinthine stairs, passages and rooms that shoot off from the battlements. Each space is
filled with nooks and crannies that enable you to experience the castle from unique vantage points. The mid tower, the tallest part of the surviving structure, gives a sense of how impressive Tantallon once was. Rising from the site like a ship’s mast, the tower has stunning views of Berwick Law, which dominates the landscape for miles. From the castle, gannets can be seen plunging into the waters below as they hunt for their next meal.
Tantallon Castle's spectacular clifftop location provides an exhilarating experience for explorers
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 29
D AY S O U T
CASTLE CAMPBELL AND GARDEN
4 Castle Campbell's leafy setting in the Ochil Hills provides an ideal spot to survey the Forth Valley
Magnificent tower house The location of this grandiose 15th-century tower-house castle could be straight from the pages of a Tolkien novel. Perched on a ridge overlooked by the Ochil Hills, the stately ruin is hemmed between two ravines through which the Burn of Care and the Burn of Sorrow twist and turn as they plunge down the Dollar Glen. The view is as
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CAIRNPAPPLE HILL
This hilltop site was used for burials until 400 AD, and offers views for miles around
Ceremonial and burial site
5
Don your climbing shoes for an enjoyable stroll to the heights of this once sacred hilltop. At more than 1,000ft, the hill offers panoramic views from Berwick Law and the Bass Rock in the east to Arran in the west. Its summit is adorned with burial monuments dating from 2,000 BC, while the site’s ceremonial remains date back to 3,000 BC, when the Neolithic people built a henge comprised of a 1.2m high earth bank and 1m deep circular ditch filled with 24 wooden posts.
dramatic as it is beautiful. Initially titled Castle Glume, the castle became the lowland residence of the Campbells of Argyll in 1464. It was renamed in 1489 and remained their home for the next 200 years. Learn about the rise and fall of this formidable family and of visits to the castle by figures such as preacher John Knox and Mary Queen of Scots. And visit the rooftops for views over the Forth Valley before taking a picnic in the gardens.
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30 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
The finished henge – an oval enclosure – would have resembled the stone henge at the Ring of Brodgar. What type of ceremonies took place here remains a mystery.
The site’s first three burial cairns date to c. 2,000BC. A further two were constructed in the years down to around 1,000 BC, with four graves added in around 400 AD.
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OUT AND ABOUT
FAMILY FORTUNES
Propelled by their trusty camper van, the Marlands discover a wealth of fascinating facts about the former residents of three stunning sites WORDS: IAN MARLAND PHOTOGRAPHS: SIMON MURPHY
A striking stronghold: Caerlaverock Castle’s distinctive shape makes it one of a kind
32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
TOUR NOTES The Marland family conquer Caerlaverock
The family travelled by camper van, guided by the Historic Scotland app. See historicscotland.gov.uk/ appsupport
Caerlaverock Castle A moated medieval stronghold with a twin-towered gatehouse
Sweetheart Abbey A romantic abbey founded in 1273 by Lady Dervorgilla of Galloway in memory of her husband John Balliol
Dundrennan Abbey Built in the late 12th century and once home to a community of Cistercian monks
SHUTTERSTOCK
C
lambering into a camper van with a mileage that tells of journeys past, we prepare for a voyage of discovery along Scotland’s ‘secret’ south-west coastline. With dogs and children in tow, my wife and I embark on a trip that will lead us to castles, abbeys, shrines, spectacular scenery and evocative stories. From a rain-drenched Caerlaverock Castle, saturated with tales of action and bloodshed, to Sweetheart and Dundrennan abbeys, both characterised by stories of devotion, our adventure is to fire our imaginations.
CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE We invade from the south. The castle and all before her stand little chance. Rounding the woods that shroud the fortress from the Solway Firth, we edge along a track to within sight of our target … and then rush forward as the towers and walls appear. The ‘occupants’ are taken by surprise. The children scream across the grassy mounds of old fortifications before the final breach of Caerlaverock’s walls. It is carnage in the children’s minds. There’s nothing bouncy about this castle – although all of us enjoy the chance to dress up in period garb. We – two kids, two dogs, mum and dad – had
IAN MARLAND A freelance journalist living in Glasgow, Ian is a former news editor at The Herald and edits a hyperlocal news site
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 33
OUT AND ABOUT
The Marland family enjoy the majesty of Sweetheart Abbey’s impressive architecture
arrived shortly before, with supplies to feed an army: corn chips, chocolate biscuits, fruit and orange juice. This siege would take some time. We had to make sure we could last the distance. “Look at that moat, it’s amazing. Just like in the books,” says Tom, nine, the chief scout and leading member of the advance party. We tread carefully over the bridge at the north entrance to the castle and into its imposing gatehouse. “Does anyone live there now? I wonder if they can see us,” enquires Ellen, also nine, the master tactician in our quest for castle dominance and the keeper of the supplies. We marvel at the grand façades hidden behind the outer curtain walls. The Nithsdale Lodging, a 17th-century addition, resembles a mansion plonked against a stony backdrop. Generations of Maxwells rebuilt, extended, modified, and bricked-off the original footprint. The effect makes the layout appear haphazard, an improbable design. At one corner is the Murdoch Tower where a cousin of King James I was reputedly held in 1425 before his execution in Stirling. 34 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Sieges and bloodshed made headlines, but much of Caerlaverock’s story is of sedate comfort Tom and Ellen act out the ravings of a desperate inmate, beating the solid walls with their ineffectual hands. Imprisoned with no telly, no wi-fi – the horror of it all. They then disappear into the recesses of stairs and secret chambers with fine fireplaces and buttress stonework, and appear at each window, all smiles and laughter. This has been an easy victory – some
Sweetheart Abbey’s memorial to Lady Dervorgilla
would say fun – without a drop of blood or orange juice spilt. Sure, this daunting edifice has seen action and bloodshed – none other than Edward I was first to wrest control in 1300. But it is not the acts of war that have defined it over the centuries. Instead, Caerlaverock’s tale is a more peaceful and domestic narrative. During its 400 years or so of occupation it was a grand home to the Maxwells, whose influence stretched across Galloway. As Valerie Bennett, manager at Caerlaverock Castle, says, sieges and bloodshed made the headlines but much of its history is of sedate comfort. “A lot of the books all talk about the wars but for most of its time it was just a luxurious home,” she says. “When it was dismantled there was an inventory of all the things inside; ornate beds, hangings, and all kinds of luxury goods. Glass windows, wooden shutters, wooden cladding, plasterwork, silks and tapestry, all the trappings you could imagine.” We leave the castle as we came, but a little wiser about the nature and times of those who lived there.
OUT AND ABOUT
MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS Mary is associated with many places in Scotland; not just in the south-west and Dundrennan, where she spent her last hours on Scottish soil. Here are three other properties with links to the Scottish queen.
SHUTTERSTOCK
Sweetheart Abbey, which provides a tale of love to fire the imaginations of the Marlands, below in their camper van
SWEETHEART ABBEY Back in the van, we are on the move to our next destination. Sweetheart Abbey lies 15 or so miles by road to the west of Caerlaverock, across the River Nith. We head north to Dumfries to drop south again on the opposite flank of the river, taking the A710 scenic road that will eventually lead us to Sandyhills Bay, Dalbeattie and Castle Douglas. They call this area ‘Scotland’s secret coast’. We vow to return to do it justice. At the quaint village of New Abbey, we pull in to the car park. We slide back the door to take in the view of the beautiful abbey church. Here, our adventure changes pace, with the contemplation of a wonderful love story. We make our way to a memorial dedicated to Lady Dervorgilla of Galloway, benefactor of the abbey. The children peer at the stone relief of the lovelorn lady who founded Sweetheart as a shrine to her dead husband Lord John Balliol, of Oxford college fame. We tell them Dervorgilla was buried with the embalmed heart of her true love. The reaction is suitably one of fascination and revulsion. “Urgh, where did she keep it?” asks a sceptical Ellen. We explain she had a special casket made and kept it in her nearby home for the remaining 21 years
of her life. The children contemplate this unusual arrangement in silence, imaginations no doubt going into overdrive. Sweetheart Abbey is testament to a time when different orders and politics were in play in this part of Britain. Cistercian monks had established a network of abbey churches across Britain by the 13th century, from their base in eastern France. By the time they had set up home by the River Nith, Scotland was the location for a dozen or so similar places of worship. Abbeys were wealthy institutions that added to their income through the development of industry and commerce. Each pious community established its own brewery, bakehouses, farms and gardens. And the lands held by the Cistercians were considerable. The grounds of Sweetheart Abbey extended across 30 acres, bounded on three sides by a mighty boundary wall, which is largely intact today and one of the finest examples of its kind in Scotland. Running through the lofted nave of the abbey back to the van, the children gain an appreciation for the ingenuity behind a kind of community that barely registers in today’s fast-paced, hi-tech world.
LINLITHGOW PALACE Mary was born in December 1542 during a bitingly cold winter at the royal palace of Linlithgow. Built by her great-great-great grandfather James I, it was developed by successive Stewart kings – her father, James V, included.
DUMBARTON CASTLE Mary left this fortress for France in July 1548 after a marriage was agreed between her and Francis, heir to the French throne. After 13 years at the French court, she returned to her homeland in 1561.
LOCHLEVEN CASTLE From June 1567, Mary spent 11 months imprisoned at the site that earlier welcomed her as a guest. Here she miscarried twins, was pressurised into abdicating and allowed her half-brother the Earl of Moray to govern Scotland on behalf of her son James VI. She eventually escaped, disguised as one of her companions. HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 35
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OUT AND ABOUT
DUNDRENNAN ABBEY Rewind the clock and you get another glimpse into the Cistercian way of life further west along the Galloway coast: the tranquil Dundrennan Abbey. Here we get a taste of more historical romance, this time with the association of Mary Queen of Scots. It was at Dundrennan that the ill-fated monarch spent her final hours on Scottish soil before seeking the help of her cousin Elizabeth I. She was fated never to return to her native land. Built more than 100 years before Sweetheart Abbey, the architecture of the 12th-century masons and craftsmen is on an even more impressive scale. The property’s steward is Glyn Machon, a colourful Yorkshire builder by trade with a love of history, on hand to tell us the significance of the architecture. He brings his subject to life with his broad Rotherham vernacular. He jokes with the children to shut him up if he is boring them. They look suitably interested. “Dundrennan is when rounded Romanesque arches gave way to the pointed Gothic arches that could bear more weight,” he tells us, while looking over to the impressive transepts at the centre of the site. “It is fascinating to see how they used both designs in the abbey.”
Dundrennan Abbey, founded by monks from Yorkshire as a Cistercian foothold in Galloway
Glyn sets the eager children off with quiz boards in a hunt for clues around the abbey grounds. They are soon learning about the role of the lay brothers in abbey life and where the commendators, or lay administrators, lived within with grounds. We learn that Dundrennan was more than likely a ‘daughter’ abbey of Rievaulx in Yorkshire. Glyn revels in the connection. He tells us how monks had travelled from the Yorkshire moors to establish a Cistercian foothold in Galloway. Once here, they spread out to other centres – at Sweetheart and Glenluce, among others. The rule of thumb, says Glyn, is that each daughter abbey was no more than
a day’s ride of 30 miles from the ‘mother’ abbey. By the end of the 12th century, the order had spread throughout France and into England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Spain, Portugal, Italy and Eastern Europe. We enjoy our history lesson in the sun, and the children have been suitably regaled with the gorier details of Mary Queen of Scots’ last days. The last monument on our mini excursion adds further to our understanding of a once-key part of the British Isles. The children’s minds have been fuelled by stories that really happened and are written in the buildings and landscapes that exist today thanks in part to the conservation work and guardianship of Historic Environment Scotland.
SHUTTERSTOCK, MARY EVANS, WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE / ALAMY
TIMELINE: CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE C1220 Alexander II grants Caerlaverock to his local chamberlain, Sir John de Maccuswell (Maxwell)
1277 Sir Herbert de Maxwell, the nephew of Sir John, relocates to his new castle
1250 Sir John de Maccuswell completes construction of the old castle, which lies to the south of the present property
1300 Edward I besieges and captures Caerlaverock Castle during the Wars of Independence
1312 Sir Eustace Maxwell holds the castle for England against Robert I, before soon switching sides
1634 Robert, earl of Nithsdale, builds the Renaissance mansion the Nithsdale Lodging
1542 King James V visits the castle shortly before the Scots’ defeat at the Battle of Solway Moss
1946 After the castle is passed down the family line, it is entrusted into state care by the 16th Duke of Norfolk
1640 Earl Robert surrenders to Covenanters after a 13-week siege. The partly dismantled castle is unoccupied
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 37
PROTÉGÉ FIONA MCKINLAY gets acquainted with inert materials
MENTOR RACHAEL DICKSON loves her hands-on contact with the collection
MY DAY AS A
COLLECTIONS MANAGER
As a site of special scientific interest, Holyrood Park is a treasure trove of nature 38 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
BEHIND THE SCENES
How does it feel to look after some of the nation’s greatest treasures? Fiona McKinlay finds out PHOTOGRAPHS: JEREMY SUTTON!HIBBERT
Trinity House stands on Leith’s Kirkgate
T Fiona and Rachael prepare a harpoon for transit, above, and examine pilotage documents from Leith docks’ bountiful past
he sun is out in Leith, bright blue sky outside and dazzling light shining in the tall windows of the impressive room. The convening room in Trinity House stretches almost the entire size of the top floor, its ornate coral and aqua ceiling tops rich red walls lined with an incredible collection of artworks. The most striking of these is Vasco da Gama Encountering the Spirit of the Storm, completed by David Scott in 1842. Rachael Dickson, regional collections manager, says it may be the biggest painting in Scotland, and the first in the country to be bought by public subscription. “It’s a significant painting and it would be great to conserve it.” Part of the collection at Trinity House, and thus part of the Historic Environment Scotland collection, this painting is just one of many Rachael takes care of in her role. She hopes in the next few years it can be conserved, to bring back some vibrancy to its colours, but says this is no easy job to coordinate. “To remove the painting we will need to clear half the room to ensure we have space to bring it down safely,” she explains. “Objects and paintings will be placed in temporary storage and specialist removers and scaffolding will be required … there are many things to take into consideration. “As a collections manager, this is an important part of the job. There is a lot HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 39
BEHIND THE SCENES
Harpoon with a history: this would have been used in 19th-century whale hunting
TOP The engraved name on this harpoon would help the hunter claim his kill MIDDLE The coat of arms in the entrance hall BOTTOM Many model vessels are featured in the house’s collection RIGHT Property manager Adam Gorysz points out features on the fireplace in the Masters’ Room at Trinity House
40 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
of project planning, organisation and preparation. You need to think about the impact of projects on stakeholders and visitors. How will it fit with events, tours, school visits and other teams’ workloads?” Cleaning trials by painting conservators have helped gauge the methods best suited to this painting but, as Rachael explains, David Scott was known for his experimental techniques so further investigation may be required before a conservation project gets under way. “We would also like to improve the lighting in this space,” she enthuses. “There are a lot of opportunities. Visitors could see the conservators at work and learn about how we conserve our collections. Project financing needs to be explored and sponsorship may be an option; this is particularly pertinent as the painting was purchased by public subscription.” The history of Trinity House is
BEHIND THE SCENES
THE COLLECTIONS TEAM One of four regional collections managers at Historic Environment Scotland (HES), Rachael Dickson is responsible for the smallest area but has some of the most collections-intensive properties on her plate, including Edinburgh Castle. “The others’ jobs are very different because of the nature of their properties, and sometimes their remoteness, it is necessary to pool resources and maximise time on site. For example, Rona Walker in the north region may be undertaking a project in Orkney but will use that visit to condition check or audit collections at other nearby sites. The work is very varied for all of us.” The team is based at Longmore House in Edinburgh, the headquarters of HES. With
intriguing, and unusual among Historic Scotland properties. It is home to the Incorporation of Shipowners and Shipmasters of Leith, which dates back to the 14th century. Basement vaults on the site date back to 1555, but the main Trinity House of Leith now standing is a Georgian building from 1816. In honour of its 200th anniversary, there will be a new film, guidebook, and display looking at 200 years of life in Leith, and special events. “There are several smaller projects coming together for the Trinity 200 Bicentenary celebration, which the interpretation, learning and collections units have been working on together. Aside from the new film and guidebook, we will be having a family event on 11 June during the Leith Festival which will include craft activities, temporary displays, object handling and costumed interpreters.” As I learn about her plans, there is work to be done. A harpoon needs to be
The team is based at Longmore House in Edinburgh
different specialisms, they help out one another on projects. “Lynsey Haworth, in the central region has an interest in preventative conservation, so she’s good on pests,” says Rachael “Rona’s main interest is archaeology. “For me with a site like Edinburgh Castle, I need to programme my work so
safely transported from the convening room table to the collection store, near Holyrood, where it will be photographed for the guidebook. The harpoon comes from the Alpheus, a Peterhead sailing vessel, and would have been used to hunt whales in the Arctic in around the 1820s. We move it with cotton gloves and package it with various inert materials – foam, unbleached cotton tape, acid-free tissue. All of these have to be sourced by the team to ensure no detrimental effect to any objects being moved or stored. Rachael explains that so many of the packing materials we might consider to be safe in everyday life – such as bubblewrap – can cause real damage over time. “If, for example, you wrapped
We have the original architectural drawings of the house from 1816
that it minimises any impact on the public. I often undertake projects before the castle opens or after it closes. At a smaller site it would be possible to close down a display while you work on it. However, if something needs sorting at Edinburgh Castle, a light out in a case for example, I need to deal with this quickly.”
furniture in bubblewrap without a protective layer of tissue; after a period of time, you may get indentations of the bubbles in the varnish,” she says. “The only way to remedy this would be through removal of the varnish layer, and conservation.” Next we head to Leith shore with Santiago Arribas, HES photographer, who is gathering footage for the new film. The shots we are after will be compared with some of the old pictures and historical paintings held in the Trinity House collection. Afterwards we return for a few more items – pilotage material including licences, which we pack in another inert material. Rachael explains: “Pilotage was one of the main purposes of Trinity House. To enter Leith docks in your vessel you would pay a fee and a licensed pilot would be sent out to guide you safely to shore. Pilotage fees were one of the main sources of income for Trinity House.” After a coffee we head to the collection HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 41
BEHIND THE SCENES
Filming at Leith shore, packing documents, and going behind the scenes at the collections store
store at St Ann’s Maltings. So much history lies here, including finds from excavations at Historic Scotland properties such as Caerlaverock Castle and, of course, some impressive old weaponry. “Swords, cannonballs – there’s quite an arsenal,” Rachael jests. At the end of one bay are trolleys containing “salvage kits”, to deal with anything from fire to water ingress, so that collections can be safely secured in difficult situations. Rachael then recalls how the collections team’s expertise came to the fore following the fire at the Glasgow School of Art in 2014. “We had an important role to play during the salvage operation; documenting material and ensuring a salvage procedure was followed. It was important to establish which objects were taken, where the safe areas were, and what people’s responsibilities and roles were, otherwise objects could be misplaced.” My next task is pest management. Around the collections store sticky devices known as blunder traps are placed and monitored to prevent unwanted intruders. Fortunately we only find a couple of spiders – although the one in the quarantine room is a bit of a beast. “Spiders themselves aren’t a problem,” says Rachael, “but if there are a lot of spiders it may indicate that you have a
I’m conscious that the work I do is going to be there in 50 or 100 years
food source for them, which could be pests.” She considers some of the key threats: “Book lice are a problem we have encountered in the past. They are very small so until you have a number of them, you won’t necessarily realise there is a problem,” she says. “With global warming, moths are becoming an issue too. If we have a textile object on site we will use a pheromone moth trap to monitor any potential problems.” Eight-legged trauma over, Rachael is keen to show me some of the items for the Trinity 200 temporary display. “During Trinity 200 and throughout the bicentenary year, we hope to get a lot of Leithers visiting. We have fantastic postcards, photographs, prints and plans, showing how Leith and the Kirkgate used to look. “We have the original architectural drawings of the house from 1816, which are interesting – but even more interesting are alternative plans of how the building could have looked had the masters chosen a more elaborate design.”
Rachael finds it hard to choose her career highlights, although conservation work on Mons Meg last year was among them. Asked about her favourite objects from the collection, she tells me of some treasured items from Trinity House. “They are US Confederate bank notes, found in the safe in the strong room. I was really excited about them as they appeared to be very rare. Unfortunately after some research it transpired they were fakes given away in cereal packets in the 1950s. I still really like them though, and wonder if the master who collected them thought they were the real deal.” Rachael’s role is certainly busy and varied – “a never-ending job”, she says, “but it’s a privilege getting to do this. I’m conscious that the work I do is going to be there in 50 or 100 years – for future generations. “You realise that you’re only looking after an object for a brief moment in its history and therefore what you do, or don’t do, will have consequences. I’m always wanting to make sure that I’m doing the right thing for the object, to the best of my ability.” HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 43
ELGIN CARVINGS
HEART OF STONE Hidden from view for centuries, the carvings of Elgin Cathedral are illuminated in a striking exhibition, finds Kathleen Morgan
Christa Gerdwilker, Kenny McCaffrey and Alan McKenzie
44 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
BEHIND THE SCENES The effigy of Bishop Archibald
The majestic Elgin Cathedral
T
he steep walk up a narrow spiral staircase is not for the faint-hearted. However, if the journey to the pinnacle of Elgin Cathedral is a challenge, every step before you emerge on to a viewing platform at the top of a tower is richly rewarded. As you take in the view below you begin to understand why this majestic structure is known as the lantern of the north. Elgin Cathedral would be impressive enough if it were simply a wellpreserved and rather mesmerising Gothic ruin. Something rather special has happened to give it an extra edge. Around 120 carvings once buried among its ruins have been returned home after being lovingly conserved at the Historic Environment Scotland (HES) Conservation Centre in Edinburgh.
Displayed in eight rooms within the cathedral’s imposing north and south towers are stone carvings depicting flora, fauna and human faces straight from a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. From a sleeping lion curled up like a puppy to a half-man, half-lion with tongue protruding, the stones were exquisitely carved by masons up to 800 years ago. They were once integral to the character of the cathedral, the ecclesiastical centre of Moray from around 1224 until the Protestant Reformation of 1560. The craftsmanship is remarkable, even to the untrained eye, and we marvel at intricate veins popping out from oak leaves, locks of hair and the row of seven teeth hovering above that tongue. An LED lighting system developed in partnership with Edinburgh
THE CONSERVATORS
Meet the team charged with breathing new life into the carvings It has taken months of meticulous work to bring more than 120 carved stones back to life so they can be displayed in public for the first time in 20 years. In the Edinburgh Conservation Centre
experts used ancient skills coupled with modern techniques to reveal the detail of carvings that had been buried for centuries. Stephen Gordon, applied conservation manager at Historic
Environment Scotland (HES), explains the stones had been effectively lost to the public before being brought in for conservation. “Many had been in the towers for a long time, then moved to
Christa Gerdwilker
an industrial unit not far out of Elgin, so a lot of them haven’t been seen for years. Previously, they were in a darkened space, not lit
properly. Now they are well presented in a far better environment.” He is standing in the centre’s main working area,
surrounded by pieces of history waiting for the experts to delicately peel back the layers of time. In a room off the main working area is Alan McKenzie, a former commercial stonemason who restored historic buildings before
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 45
ELGIN CARVINGS
Napier University picks out the detail beautifully. Fiona Fleming, interpretation manager within the HES Visitor Experience, Content and Learning team, explains why the survival and conservation of the carvings is so significant: “Elgin Cathedral has a turbulent past. A catastrophic fire tore through it in 1270 and the enlarged church was attacked in 1390 and 1402. After the Protestant Reformation the cathedral lost its roof and fell into disrepair. “These remarkable carved stones were unearthed during successive programmes of clearance and conservation, beginning with the work of Elgin shoemaker John Shanks, who became keeper and watchman of the cathedral in 1826. Many of the fragments had been buried for centuries, resulting in a crispness of carving which is rarely seen.” That detail has been cleverly picked out in the recently installed stones, and lovingly explained in the elegant surrounding exhibition. One carving in particular stands out, though. In a ground-floor room in one of the towers lies a 700-year-old effigy of Bishop Archibald, among the most powerful people in medieval Scotland. Within a few seconds the stone figure – delicately conserved by Colin Muir – is transformed by LED lights from
Many of the Elgin carvings had been buried for centuries
Stonemason Graeme Horne at Elgin Cathedral
46 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
THE STORIES BEHIND THE STONES
Interpretation manager Fiona Fleming unravels the mysteries of three Elgin carvings SLEEPING LION “The most commonly depicted animal at Elgin is the lion. Often used to symbolise Christ, lions were said to sleep with their eyes open, always watching. This one is definitely getting some shut-eye though. Carved in the 1400s, the
LION MAN “Although lions often symbolised Christ, this fearsome creature appears to be half-lion and
joining HES. He recalls the sheer scale of the work the team faced when the carvings first arrived at the centre from Elgin in June 2015. “When we got the Elgin stones, it was the equivalent of a whole artic lorry’s worth,” he says. “There were 26 pallets and three
half-man. It could be a manticore – a terrifying hybrid that hankers after human flesh.”
crates – one of the biggest projects we’ve had.” His colleague, stone conservator Christa Gerdwilker, adds later, “We all relished working on such a unique collection of stones. It is rare for carved detail from that era to have survived so well, attributable to
creature looks more like a dog than a lion. Could the mason have modelled it on his pet dog, perhaps copying the mane from another lion carving? Or could this be a deliberate hybrid, depicting a mysterious beast that is half-dog, half-lion?”
DOG HEAD “Could the masons working at the cathedral have modelled this carving on the site dog? It once held a stick or a bone between its teeth. Dogs often symbolised faithfulness, but they were also used to represent repeated sin, since they were known to eat their own vomit.”
the cathedral’s destruction and the burial of the stones before they suffered any substantial weathering. “I particularly enjoyed working on the animal-shaped vault bosses (which have an important structural role holding everything up above them). The
more hidden secular ornament found in Gothic cathedrals and abbeys has always fascinated me. The carvers and masons were allowed more freedom in their design, which can be very humorous.” The conservators’ work involved everything from gently cleaning
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superb book – it is really helping me. I had bought one (a book) in W H Smiths a short while ago and couldn’t get on with it at all!” - J.S. and “I am delighted with the new book on tablets, so many things I didn’t understand before, being of the ‘retired brigade’ it’s a great help.” – Doreen Wadsworth
books will do for you and about your free gift that comes with them. (And don’t worry, we won’t pass your address to anyone else.)
Post to The Helpful Book Co, 13B Devonshire Rd Est, Millom, Cumbria, LA18 4JS or call 01229 777606
ELGIN CARVINGS
Consecrated bread and wine were placed inside the tomb
Collections manager Rona Walker gives the effigy of Bishop Archibald a final clean
sombre grey into rich hues representing traces of centuries-old paint detected by specialists. The bishop enhanced and enlarged the cathedral after the fire of 1270, reserving a place for his tomb near the high altar – close to the most sacred part of the cathedral and to the mystery of the Mass. In 1298 he was buried there, beneath a brightly coloured effigy. “Experts think its location close to the high altar could mean the tomb was used as an Easter sepulchre,” explains Fiona. “Consecrated bread and wine were placed inside the tomb on Good Friday and guarded for three days before being ‘resurrected’ on Easter Sunday.” Eerily, we find ourselves staring down at the effigy on Easter Sunday – days after the carved stones were unveiled to the public. It is a fitting day to discover a cathedral whose story has been brought to life through the art of conservation. We have more to discover, including the superb octagonal chapter house, once the meeting place of the cathedral’s clergy. The carvings, though, have etched a special place in our hearts and minds. As we prepare to leave the cathedral, we take a last look behind us. Further along the street a teenager gets off his bike to stand, loose-jawed, staring up at the spectacular west front with its two towers, before speeding on his way. Visit historic-scotland.gov.uk/elgin
A dog head is returned to the cathedral
48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
stone with a steam cleaner or laser beam to creating epoxy putty mounts. “The mounts are like shoes,” says Stephen. “They keep the stones safe and provide a really even support.” The team created casts using traditional moulding and casting
techniques, complemented by 3D scanning. “A small number of stones was scanned and smallscale 3D prints made for educational use,” says Stephen. “Three full-sized vault bosses were moulded and cast in resin for display purposes. Another
set was made as handling objects for school visitors. “Data captured from the scanning can be used to make comparisons over time and determine future deterioration.” Asked how it feels to see the original carvings on display in glorious detail in Elgin Cathedral,
Stephen says, “Seeing the stones safe, and being able to stand back and concentrate on other things, is a huge thing. “It’s like a patient who has been cured – you don’t have to keep going back, trying to improve the conservation or make them stable.”
FRIENDS AND FAMILY MEMBERSHIP OFFER
I
f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership, now is the time to tell your friends and family. They can enjoy great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they will save 20% on their membership fee when they join. Paying by Direct Debit is great value
too, and with 20% off the annual cost a concession membership is only £2.50 a month. MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEME There are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme: l Ask your friend or family
member to call 0131 668 8999. Tell them to quote your membership number and mention the Member Get Member offer. We can then process their discounted-rate membership over the phone. l Go to any staffed Historic Scotland properties with your
SPECIAL DISCOUNT
friend or family member and show your membership card. Your friend can sign up at the discounted rate. Terms and conditions apply. For new annual membership only. Not available for renewals or life membership. Visit historic-scotland.gov.uk/member for details
FIVE REASONS TO BECOME A MEMBER
2
A personal copy of Historic Scotland magazine posted out four times a year direct to your door
1
Free entry to more than 70 of Scotland’s top paid-for heritage attractions
5
3
Discounts on Historic Scotland products and dining events
Half-price entry into 500 heritage attractions in England, Wales and on the Isle of Man
4
A chance to take part in member activities – including tours, lectures and lunches
EVENTS
FOR FULL DETAILS Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit historic-scotland.gov.uk/events DAYTIME EVENTS ARE FREE TO MEMBERS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
A RANGE OF EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND
KNIGHTS TO REMEMBER Celebrate summer in style at show-stopping events across the country, including spectacular jousting
KEEP UP TO DATE WITH ALL OUR ACTIVITIES AT HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK/EVENTS
50 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
JUNE!SEPTEMBER
Toilets
Restaurant/café Picnic area Dogs not permitted Parking
Gift shop Reasonable wheelchair access Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design
SPECTACULAR JOUSTING LINLITHGOW PALACE
Sat 2–Sun 3 Jul; 12.30–4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historic-scotland.gov.uk/jousting The King of Scotland invites you to join the royal party for two days of action and excitement at his tournament. Over the weekend you can meet the retinue and cheer on your favourite as they fight for victory. They’ll battle it out on foot, in archery and in a dazzling display of horsemanship. Who will be declared champion by the king? Explore the camps on the Peel and learn more about the armour and weapons in medieval times.
HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 51
JUNE
ARTHUR’S SECRETS
DAVID ROBERTS
Every Tue, Jun–Jul; 1–3pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Booking essential
DUFF HOUSE
Until Sun 10 Jul; 11am–5pm 01261 818181 duffhouse.org.uk/whats-on Explore the work of David Roberts, one of the most adventurous and prolific British artists and architectural painters of the first half of the 19th century.
RING OF BRODGAR WALK RING OF BRODGAR
Daily, Jun–Aug; 1pm 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@hes.scot Explore the area around the Ring of Brodgar during our daily guided walk with a ranger and find out the special significance of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
Celebrate 200 years of Trinity House
HOLYROOD PARK
Join us on a guided walk to learn more about Arthur’s Seat, created by fire and ice. Standing stones of Stenness
STANDING STONES OF STENNESS AND BARNHOUSE VILLAGE WALK
ARTHUR’S AMBLE HOLYROOD PARK
Mon 20 Jun; Mon 4 and Mon 18 July; 1–2.30pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Booking essential
STANDING STONES OF STENNESS
Every Mon, Wed and Fri, Jun–Aug; 10am 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@hes.scot Join the ranger service for a guided tour of our oldest stone circle and explore the links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse.
Enjoy a gentle guided walk around Hunter’s Bog and St Margaret’s Loch to learn more about the story of popular attraction Arthur’s Seat, an ancient volcano.
TRINITY 200 TRINITY HOUSE
Sat 11 Jun; 10am–4pm
SUMMER NIGHTS WITH SHAKESPEARE AS YOU LIKE IT DUFF HOUSE
Wed 13 Jul; doors open 6.15pm for 7pm start BOTHWELL CASTLE
Sat 16 Jul; doors open 6.15pm for 7pm start With her father the Duke in exile, Rosalind and her cousin Celia leave the court and journey into the Forest of Arden. There, released from convention, Rosalind feels the liberating rush of transformation. Disguising herself as a boy, she embraces a different way of living and then falls spectacularly in love.
A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM STIRLING CASTLE
Wed 27 (British Sign Language-
52 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
interpreted performance) & Thur 28 July; doors open 6.45pm for 7.30pm start CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE
Fri 29 July; doors open 6.45pm for 7.30pm start Fri 12 Aug; doors open 6.45pm for 7.30pm start URQUHART CASTLE
Thur 11 Aug; doors open 6.45pm for 7.30pm start ELGIN CATHEDRAL
Fri 12 August Doors open 6.45pm for a 7.30pm start Catch As You Like It at Duff House and Bothwell Castle
Hermia loves Lysander and Helena loves Demetrius – but Demetrius is supposed to be marrying Hermia … When the Duke of Athens tries to enforce the marriage; the lovers take refuge in the
woods and wander into a dispute between the king and queen of the fairies, Oberon and Titania. Bring a picnic and enjoy this classic comedy at its finest.
Discounted members’ tickets can be purchased from the respective attractions or online at historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member. For more information call 0131 668 8885
Toilets
Restaurant/café Picnic area Dogs not permitted Parking
ARTHUR’S ADVENTURE HOLYROOD PARK
Mon 13 and Mon 27 Jun; Mon 11 and Mon 25 July; 1–4pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Booking essential Join us for a challenging guided walk to learn about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past and explore 7,000 years of its history.
SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA STIRLING CASTLE
Thur 23 Jun; 8pm start £19 adults, £17 concessions, £17 members, £6 under-26s and people with a disability and accompanying carer Tickets from Albert Halls ticket office on 01786 473544
0131 652 8155 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events
SHUTTERSTOCK
Celebrate 200 years of Trinity House. Enjoy craft activities, tour Leith’s maritime history using the latest technologies and meet our painting conservators. Watch the film about Trinity House before exploring a temporary exhibition about old Leith.
The Scottish Chamber Orchestra present their summer concert led by conductor Wolfram Christ. Enjoy stunning music from Mozart to Mendelssohn in the beautiful surroundings of the Great Hall.
BIOBLITZ HOLYROOD PARK ! DUDDINGSTON
Sat 25 Jun; contact rangers for accurate times 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Discover what crawls, hops, wriggles and grows around our capital and help record the wildlife in our magnificent city.
DUNDONALD AND THE BRUCE
TWO HOUSES AND A CASTLE
DUNDONALD CASTLE
BLACKNESS CASTLE
Sun 12 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events
Sun 26 Jun; 10am–3pm £5 Tickets from Hopetoun House ranger service 0131 319 3956 ranger@hopetoun.co.uk
Step back into 1298 and discover how Robert the Bruce laid waste to Dundonald Castle during the Scottish Wars of Independence. Learn how soldiers might have lived while on campaign and watch medieval combat demonstrations.
Explore the links between three of West Lothian’s historic properties on a guided walk between Hopetoun House, Blackness Castle and House of the Binns.
Gift shop Reasonable wheelchair access Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design
DANNY THE CHAMPION OF THE WORLD
ARTHUR’S SECRETS: DOG!FRIENDLY WALK
DUFF HOUSE
HOLYROOD PARK
Thur 30 Jun; doors open 5.45pm for 6.30pm start £12 adults, £10 concessions, £8 children, 10% member discount Tickets available at Duff House or historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member
Sat 17 Jul (details as per other rangers’ events); 1- 3pm Bring your dog as we embark on a canine-friendly version of our classic walk of Arthur’s Seat
Join Danny and his father William – the most exciting dad a boy has ever had – as they embark on the adventure of a lifetime. Cheer as they take on a greedy businessman and thwart his plans to buy their land by poaching his game pheasants. A magnificent adventure for all the family. JULY
THE KEYS TO THE CASTLE ABERDOUR CASTLE
Sat 16–Sun 17 Jul; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events In the early 14th-century, King Robert the Bruce gifted Aberdour Castle to Sir Thomas Randolph for his role in the Wars of Independence. Join Sir Thomas as he puts his men through their paces and discover more at our living history camps.
THE FIGHT TO THE END CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE
Sat 23–Sun 24 Jul; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events In 1640, Caerlaverock Castle came under a prolonged and bitter siege from a Covenanter army. Meet the Covenanters and discover more about the weeks of assault that reduced it to the ruins you see today. AUGUST
THE STUARTS’ STRUGGLE FORT GEORGE
Sat 13–Sun 14 Aug; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events Join us at one of Europe’s mightiest artillery fortifications to find out more about the three major Jacobite risings of 1689, 1715 and 1745. Discover the causes, effects and myths surrounding these important
Find out about the Stuarts’ struggle at Fort George HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 53
SCOTLAND
Coming in 2017
Lords of the Isles*
The island kingdom of Viking/Gaelic rulers of Western Scotland in the Middle Ages. Isles of Lewis, Harris, Skye, Mull, Iona.
July 25-August 6 • 12 Nights • $5,195 Viking Treasure*
ESCORTED TOURS Haunted Scotland Highland Ghost Hunting
14th Annual Outlander Tour®
Based on the series by Diana Gabaldon. Time travel, history, intrigue, passion, loyalty, pride of country – the 18th-century Highlands.
Orkney and Shetland - history, archaeological wonders, and natural beauty of the remote, mystical Northern Isles.
Oct. 29-Nov. 6 • 8 Nights • $3,595
3 Departures: May 14, Sept. 17, Oct.8 7 Nights • $3,595
Hogmanay Celebration
Special extended Outlander Tour®
*Includes the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
Dec. 29-Jan. 4 • 6 Nights • $3,095
June 25-July 5 • 10 Nights • $4,595
August 18-28 • 10 Nights • $4,695
Traditional Highland New Year’s Eve celebration at elegant Culloden House.
includes the Standing Stones of Calanais!
Deluxe escorted tours• 18-guest maximum• E-mail Judy@celticjourneys.us for more information
Call us at 703.941.6455 • www.CelticJourneys.us
Glamis Castle_HS_Spr_16.indd 1
25/01/2016 15:23
Toilets
Restaurant/café Picnic area Dogs not permitted Parking
Gift shop Reasonable wheelchair access Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design
EXPERIENCE A MUSIC PREMIERE ECHOES AND TRACES $ NOBILIS HUMILIS Dunfermline Abbey Wed 31 Aug, 7.30pm Stirling Castle Thur 1 Sep; 8pm Glasgow Cathedral Fri 2 Sep; 7.30pm Duff House Sun 4 Sep; 1pm Iona Abbey * Wed 7 Sep; 3pm 0131 668 8885 £15 adults, £12 concessions, £10 children, 10% member discount Tickets are available from the respective sites or online at historic-scotland.gov. uk/member *free for members
2016. Learn the techniques used to keep Scotland’s historic structures in good condition, and have a go at traditional craft skills such as stained-glass working and stonemasonry.
ACTIVE ARCHAEOLOGY HOLYROOD PARK
Sun 18 Sep; 11am–3pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
Echoes and Traces calls at Glasgow Cathedral on 1 September
A world-premiere concert tour of new choral works, developed in response to a 900-year-old plain-song fragment from Orkney that celebrates St Magnus: Nobilis Humilis. This
text and melody is extremely special, being one of the oldest surviving examples of Scottish music. New works by eight composers will be performed by the choir Cappella Nova.
Discover what life was like in the Iron Age by meeting characters from the past and trying out skills from the period. Meet colourful characters, discover some artefacts uncovered within Holyrood and try your hand at being a real-life archaeologist.
HOLDING THE KEY TO SCOTLAND STIRLING CASTLE
events in Highland and British history.
THINGS THAT GO SQUEAK IN THE NIGHT HOLYROOD PARK
Fri 26 Aug; 8–10pm LINLITHGOW PALACE
Sat 27 Aug; 8–10pm 0131 652 8150 £5 adults, £4 concessions, £3 children, 10% member discount Tickets available at historicscotland.gov.uk/member Booking essential Join a ranger and an expert from the Bat Conservation Trust for a talk followed by a gentle evening stroll to look and listen for bats.
CRAFT SKILLS FESTIVAL CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE
SHUTTERSTOCK
Sat 27 Aug; 11am–4pm 0131 668 8683 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events Historic Environment Scotland and Edinburgh Traditional Buildings Festival bring you a day of discovery about the ancient
craft of stonemasonry. Enjoy activities for all the family, from geology tours to designing your own stone carving. SEPTEMBER
SIEGE ON THE FORTH
Celtic past to uncover the reality behind the myths. Discover Holyrood Park’s history from the Stone Age to the present day.
DOORS OPEN DAY
BLACKNESS CASTLE
ENGINE SHED
Sat 3–Sun 4 Sep; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historic-scotland.gov.uk/events
Sat 10–Sun 11 Sep; 11am–3pm 0131 668 8683 technicaleducation@hes.scot
Join us to discover more about the castle that guards the Firth of Forth. Learn about its role in the history of the Inner Forth Estuary, meet the medieval and Covenanter armies and learn about the sieges that the castle endured. Make sure to visit the camps and make your own Forth Bridge out of Lego.
Join us at the Engine Shed, Scotland’s building conservation centre, before it opens in late
Sat 24–Sun 25 Sep; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 stirlingcastle.gov.uk/events The year is 1651 and the castle is the focus of English military activity, after the Scots’ field army had marched into England under Charles II. Led by General Monck, Cromwell’s army laid siege to and forced the surrender of the castle. Meet the defenders and hear the roar of their cannon. Watch the surgeon as he tries to keep people alive and experience life in the castle while it’s under siege.
CELTIC CRAG HOLYROOD PARK
Sun 4 Sep; 1–3.30pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Booking essential Join a ranger for a guided walk, where you’ll delve into the park’s
Experience life under siege at Stirling Castle, the key to Scotland HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 55
GUESS THE YEAR
WIN
WORK OUT THE MYSTERY YEAR AND WIN
HOW TO ENTER If you can identify the correct year from the options below, visit historic-scotland.gov.uk/ guesstheyear or post your answer with your name, membership number and address, to Guess the Year, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Friday 29 July. See historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member for terms and conditions. WINNING PRIZE The winning entrant will receive a hamper from Scottish Hampers (scottishhampers.co.uk) containing a bottle of Bordeaux, Scottish cheese, crackers and flame-roasted coffee, among other treats. The competition is only open to members aged 18 or over. PORTRAIT OF CARDINAL BEATON This painting shows Cardinal David Beaton, Archbishop of St Andrews and the last pre-Reformation Scottish cardinal. The blood-red colour of his vestments signifies his willingness to give his life for his faith. A devout Roman Catholic, Beaton arranged the trial and execution of a Protestant preacher, leading to the siege of St Andrews Castle and his own assassination. ANSWER THIS QUESTION In which year did the siege of St Andrews Castle begin? a) 1546 b) 1547 c) 1548 AFTER BECOMING ARCHBISHOP OF ST ANDREWS IN 1521, JAMES BEATON $UNCLE OF DAVID% STRENGTHENED ST ANDREWS’ DEFENCES BY ADDING TWO COLOSSAL CIRCULAR GUN TOWERS KNOWN AS BLOCKHOUSES
LAST ISSUE’S GUESS THE YEAR The Battle of Dunbar was in 1650. Congratulations to Mr Patrick Irwin from Blantyre 56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND INDEPENDENTLY MINDED.
AWARD WINNING SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY FROM THE ISLE OF ARRAN. www.arranwhisky.com
A DIFFERENT KIND OF MEMBERS CLUB The Royal Over-Seas League is a unique, not-for-profit, private membership organisation. For over 100 years we have encouraged international friendship and understanding through arts, social, music and humanitarian programmes. With membership benefits including accommodation and dining at our historic clubhouses in Edinburgh and London, and reciprocal arrangements with over 80 clubs around the world, we offer our members a home away from home.
HOW TO JOIN Call +44 (0)20 7408 0214 (ext. 214 & 216) and quote ‘HISTORIC SCOTLAND’ for special joining discounts, visit www.rosl.org.uk or email info@rosl.org.uk
Edinburgh Clubhouse Over-Seas House 100 Princes Street Edinburgh EH2 3AB London Clubhouse Over-Seas House Park Place St James’s Street London SW1A 1LR