Hi weekly - April 15, 2016

OMAN’S LARGEST CIRCULATED WEEKLY — 46,760 COPIES

HOUSE OF

MEET THE EDGIEST GLOBAL FASHION DESIGNER IN MUSCAT PAGE 16

VOL 10 ISSUE 16 / APRIL 15, 2016

THIS WEEK IN OMAN

EAT SOME HAUTE CURRY Right in the heart of the bustling Muttrah Corniche, Kurkum Restaurant is serving up high-end, Indo-Arab curries with a fine dining flair. PAGE 12

RACK ‘EM UP Billiards, a game of angles, strategy, and good, old-fashioned competition, has been a beloved pastime for centuries in Europe and America. Find out where to play here in Muscat this weekend.

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MEET OMAN’S SMOKY ROSE This week we’ll give you an inside look at the production of the famed smoky rosewater of Jebel Akhdar. PAGE 20

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

Give us a shout with questions, comments, compliments, complaints, or just to say “Hi” Founder Essa bin Mohamed Al Zedjali Chairman Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali CEO Ahmed Essa Al Zedjali scottarmstrong@timesofoman.com Chief Executive Editor Scott Armstrong felicia@timesofoman.com

Executive Features Editor Felicia Campbell Features Production Editor Swati Dasgupta Research/Copy Editor Ashish Dubash

swati@timesofoman.com ashishdubash@timesofoman.com

Senior Editors T. A. Ameerudheen Faisal Mohammed Naim Mohammed Shafeeqe

ameerudheen@timesofoman.com

faisal@timesofoman.com

Associate Editor Salim Hamood Al Afifi Shruthi Nair

shafeeq@timesofoman.com

salim@timesofoman.com

Multimedia Editorial Assistant Asmaa Al Balushi

shruthi@timesofoman.com

Chief Creative Officer Adonis Durado

asmaa@timesofoman.com

Associate Art Director Waleed Rabin Graphic Editor Antonio Farach Design Editor Sahir K.M. Lead Designer Ali Jani Designers Antonio Ismael Sandiego Geri Batara Sonny Gregory Fernandez Director of Digital Television Joe Morrison Photography MMG Photographers

richard@timesofoman.com

Chief Sales Officer Richard Pakenham

aziz@timesofoman.com

Head Of Advertising & Marketing Aziz K. Baker Production Manager Shafi Shaik On The Cover Design by Ali Jani Photography Luke Carl Thompson For general inquiries or comments: HiWeekend@timesofoman.com

Muscat Media Group AN ISO 9001:2008 CERTIFIED COMPANY Post Box: 770, Postal Code: 112, Ruwi, Sultanate of Oman EDITORIAL 24726600/24726666 Ext 235/160 felicia@timesofoman.com

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SAY “HI” ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/hiweekly twitter & instagram: hiweekly_oman

Tell us what you’re doing this weekend: Tweet us @HiWeekly_Oman; tag us in your weekend instagram photos @hiweekly_oman; or share with us on FB/hiweekly

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

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THE WEEKEND LINEUP Your calendar of the hottest events happening in Muscat this weekend

14 15 16 THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

7.30pm Party Casual

9.00pm Spin Doctors

8.30am Jungle Fever

Put on a pair of shorts and head to Muscat Hills for a “shorts” themed party night featuring live music, barbecue stations, and plenty of libations.

Entrance is OMR5 for men (which includes a beverage) and free for ladies. Call ahead to reserve a table.

Dance over to Rumba Lattina this Friday to groove to the tunes of DJ Sabrina, the world’s 2nd best DJ, and Oman’s very own DJ Khalifa.

Entry for men OMR10.

Ladies can strut in for free.

It’s opening weekend for the much anticipated re-make of the classic Disney film, ‘The Jungle Book’.

Skip the Thursday night crowds and take in a leisurely Saturday afternoon matinee.

Rumba Lattina The Cave, Darsait +968 9516 9411

The Club, Muscat Hills +968 2451 4082

6.00pm Bollywood Dance Battle 10.00am Techno-holic

PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED

Check out the event tech-lovers in Oman have eagerly been awaiting.

Comex, running from the 12th to the 16th, is the place to find the best deals on the latest gadgets and electronics.

Oman International Exhibition Centre +968 2465 6000 comex.om

Head to the Qurum amphitheatre to watch the DDA (Delicious Dance Academy) La Fest competition, where popular Indian actors and choreographers like Priyamani, Raghav, Sajna, and Sanjay Shetty will be presiding over the highenergy dance-off.

Qurum Amphitheatre +968 9525 7489 ddaoman.com

City Cinema Muscat Grand Mall +968 2456 7668 citycinemaoman.net

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Have you tried any of these five? What do you think of them? Did we miss any of your favourites? Tag us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

FIVE ICE CREAM TO TRY PLACES FRO-YO

CUSTOM COOL

Have some of your favourite fruit atop healthy frozen yoghurt at Pinkberry where you can try a selection of different flavoured frozen yoghurts or opt for the tangy plain original dressed up with toppings of your choice. Locations in Oman Avenues Mall and Muscat City Centre.

MUSCAT CITY CENTRE LOCATION +968 2230 0177

Indulge America’s favourite ice cream at Cold Stone Creamery, where you can customise your frozen treat with all manner of mixins, from peanut butter to gummy bears to pieces of cheesecake.

Locations in Muscat Grand Mall as well as Qurum City Centre.

MGM LOCATION +968 9399 1034

CLASSIC SOFT-SERVE

DEEP-FRIED SURPRISE

Refresh yourself with ice cream cones at one of Ruwi’s oldest ice cream places. They serve a variety of flavours including chocolate, strawberry, banana split, and vanilla.

SOFTY, RUWI +968 2470 4591

Treat yourself this weekend with a Chinese fried ice cream at the Golden Oryx in Ruwi. The unusual treat is a scoop of vanilla ice cream that’s rolled in crumbs and deep fried.

GOLDEN ORYX, AL BURJ STREET, RUWI +968 2470 2266

OMAN ON-A-STICK Try delicious ice cream cups made in a variety of Oman-inspired flavours from karak and Vimto to date and kahwa at Ice Cream Mama in Shatti Al Qurum near City Cinema.

ICE CREAM MAMA, SHATTI AL QURUM +968 9852 9022

TONY CIAMPA Emolab Instagram features small sketches and handwritten short poems by university student Tony Ciampa.

His beautiful words set his account apart, but the sensitive, thoughtful photography he produces along with the poems, really makes it unique.

Instagram: @emolabs

LANG LEAV International poet Lang Leav’s Instagram has over 200,000 followers, and if you enjoy whimsical and feminine poems, you should join her growing hoards of fans. The author has written several books including Lullabies, which won Best Poetry of 2014. Follow her for updates on upcoming books and writings.

Instagram: @langleav

CHRISTOPHER POINDEXTER Christopher is our favourite pick for the week, vintage-style posts are mesmerising and full of life. The contemporary poet posts verses and short poems he writes using an ancient-looking, old typewriter.

That itself is just charming.

Instagram: @christopherpoindexter

TYLER KNOTT GREGSON Tyler Knott Gregson is something of a modern Shakespeare; his posts are as romantic as poems can get, which explains his enormous fan base. He keeps his fans satisfied with new daily posts.

Instagram: @tylerknott

DEEN LOVER This account is a one-stop-shop for Islamic poetic posts, featuring poetic reminders about faith that are beautifully written as well as Duaas and other positive messages. Each photo features a longer poetic write-up under the caption.

Instagram: @deen_lover

PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED

HI SOCIAL POETS TO FOLLOW ON INSTAGRAM

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Where are you escaping to this weekend?

Show us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

WEEKEND ESCAPE

S IFA STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY NADA ELSAYED

There are lots of beaches in Muscat, but sometimes you need somewhere a bit more remote, offering a little more adventure. About an hour’s drive from Muscat, Sifa beach and village are ideal for a weekend of outdoor camping and exploring. While some choose to stay in the boutique hotel nearby, camping is a wonderful way to experience the great outdoors, and it’s an inexpensive vacation for families if you’ve got the gear. Camping supplies are a great investment for residents of Oman, where we have all kinds of places to pitch our tents, from mountains to deserts to idyllic beaches like this one.

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DAY 1 09.00 HIT THE ROAD Once the car is packed, hit the road mid-morning. The drive to Sifa is a short but beautiful journey with lots of twist and turns as you go through the mountains. Take the Sultan Qaboos Highway towards Qurum, exiting at the Qurum Heights Road. Continue on towards Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa, taking the Qantab exit. Follow the signs through to Yiti/Sifa. You will pass Yiti and continue on to Sifa.

10.30 PICK YOUR CAMPSITE Arrive at Sifa and drive right on to the beach.

The northern end of the beach is wider, giving you more space to pick a spot and set up. If you get stuck in the sand, you can use your shovel to make paths for the car to get out. Sometimes reversing works better than driving straight ahead. If you can’t manage to get out, don’t worry.

There are usually fellow campers who will come to help.

11.00 SETUP CAMP Once you’ve parked the car, get your tent set up.

You’ll want to do it before it gets dark, as setting up a tent in the dark isn’t fun unless you really enjoy a challenge. Once your tent is pitched, you’ll be happy you brought the dust pan with you. Lots of sand tends to get in the tent during assembly and you can sweep it up to minimise the amount that ends up in your sleeping bag.

12.00 HAVE A PICNIC AND A SWIM Once the tent is up, and everything is unpacked enjoy a picnic lunch on the beach, followed by a swim or snorkelling. Spend the day lounging, sun bathing, or in the water. If have a wake board or kayak, Sifa is a great place to take them out on the water. The clear water also makes it great for spotting fish.

16.00 GRILL AND CHILL Set up the grill and lounge in your folding chairs while your supper cooks and the kids play. For a nice change from the usual meat and chicken, try tossing chopped up veggies wrapped in aluminium on the grill. If you don’t have time to wait for them to cook, a little trick is to bake them in your oven the night before so they are half cooked, and cook in no time on the grill.

18.00 WATCH THE SUNSET, START A FIRE Enjoy watching the sun set behind the mountains. This specific area is spectacular with the water on one end and the mountains directly behind you. Before the last light of the sun fades, set up a camp fire with the fire wood you brought along with you. Roast marshmallows, and tell stories around the crackline fire.

22.00 HIT THE SACK Lights out early, so you can wake up and watch the sun rise.

DAY 2 06.00 MORNING STROLL Watch the sun rise over the water as it turns the sky beautiful with tints of pink and purple. Take a walk along the water in the cool crisp morning or go for a morning swim.

07.30 GRILL YOUR BREAKFAST Get the grill started to make some scrambled eggs or boil some water for tea.

08.30 EXPLORE AND RELAX Spend the rest of the morning lounging around enjoying the sand and the sun. Take a walk around the outskirts of the village and you will be sure to run into a few goats or donkeys.

11.30 PACK UP AND MOVE OUT Pack up the car and get ready to head out back to the city. Be sure to take your trash with you to properly dispose of it. Then start the drive back to Muscat.

13.00 NAUTICAL DETOUR Stop at the cove right outside of Sifa to check out the fisherman boat. The Omanis there will offer boat rides for a small fee.

15.00 HOME SWEET HOME Arrive back in Muscat with plenty of time to unpack, relax, and enjoy the evening.

PACKING LIST • Tent • Sleeping bags • Small shovel (in case your car gets stuck) • Beach chairs • Trash bags • Swim suits • Dust pan and brush • Toilet paper/wet wipes • Flashlights/torches • Fire wood (for a beach fire) • Grill • Coals • Lighter and fuel • Cooler with ice • Water for washing • Water and other beverages • Pre-made picnic food (for lunch) • Meat or veggies for the grill (for dinner) • Marshmallows and skewers • Tea, coffee, and breakfast items like bread and cheese or waterbottles of pre-cracked eggs and a pan to cook them over the fire.

—HiWeekend@timesofoman.com

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TO D LIST

STRAIGHT TO THE POCKET STORY MOHAMMED SHAFEEQE

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

From lawn sport and posh parlour game to late-night-boy’s-club recreation, the game of pool has existed in many forms over the centuries, but the unparalleled satisfaction of sinking that final shot has remained unchanged.

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ne early summer afternoon, I ascended the stairs of a place called ‘Gaming Planet’. The unmarked centre was tucked away on an alley adjacent to the Hotel Ramada in Shatti Al Qurum, near the roundabout opposite Al Masa Mall. Youngsters were coming down the stairs laughing and as I neared the top, I heard the cracking noises of balls on a pool table shattering the sound of guys sharing jokes.

I pushed opened a door on the first floor and found myself standing at the reception desk of VIB Billiard.

Haitham Al Yaseedi, who runs the place, came over and greeted me.

“We have been open for nearly 20 years. Back when we started, there were not many pool rooms in Muscat, despite the fact that there have been avid billiards fans in the Sultanate since the early 70s,” he explained as he walked me through the hall. We passed six pool tables and a full-size snooker table where five young Omani boys were earnestly playing in the dimly lit room.

There are many different versions of billiards, though the most common globally is called Eight Ball. There are many specific rules, but the basics of the game include: racking, the beginning of play when coloured and striped balls are placed in a triangular “rack” in the centre of the table; followed by breaking, when the first player strikes the white ball to start the game, the first ball he gets into one of the six pockets determining if he is “stripes or solids”; and finally, first player to get all his balls into

the pockets and then sink the black eight-ball, claims victory.

Since there is no formal league or tournaments in Muscat, most of the visitors to pool halls come just to relax and play one version or another recreationally for a small fee (OMR2 an hour at VIB Billiards).

I walked over to a table and began talking to Abdul Rahman Al Siyami.

“I started playing pool at a very young age when my father set up a pool table in our garden. I like it because it’s not tiring and during hotter months it is better to find ways you can play it indoors. It is nice that we now have some nice joints here in Muscat and the game is becoming popular among the youngsters as well as older people. I just play for fun, as there are hardly any competitions or tournaments. We just come and hang out here. A good way to pass time,” he said between shots.

“I also got into the game because of my father,” said one of the other players, Ahmed. “My father studied in England where the sport was born, and introduced me to the game. It can improve your concentration, focus, and involvement in a particular thing. It is a sport about angles, visualisation, strategy, and thinking ahead. It is a nice thing that more places like this are opening in Muscat,” he said.

The sport finds its origins in 15th century France, where it was played outdoors on lawns, before making its way to Great Britain where it was played indoors on green felt-covered tables meant to simulate grass. The game grew in popularity throughout the 1600s, enjoying a mention in

Shakespeare’s Antony and Cleopatra and gaining the modern pool cue.

With the advent of the Industrial Revolution, further improvements were made and by the 1800s the socalled “Nobel Game of Billiards” was well established.

Originally a game of the British aristocracy, the public perception of the pool hall has seen its fair share of ups and downs over the decades.

In America in the 1920s, the image of an elite parlour game gave way to perceptions of smoke filled rooms of men gambling and fighting. The sport has since made a come-back in the eye of the public with the emergence of posh leisure pool halls in major cities around the world and well-established global tournaments and professional associations for both male and female players.

Here in Muscat, there are a few good halls where leisure players can go enjoy racking and shooting. Most are open after midnight until 3am.

—shafeeq@timesofoman.com

MUSCAT POOL JOINTS VIB Billiard, Shatti Al Qurum Call: +968 9304 4719 Playtime, Bausher Call: +968 9519 4626 Funzone, Qurum Call: +968 9696 2422, +968 2466 2928 Oman Bowling Centre, Al Khuwair Call: +968 9136 7694 Professional Gaming, Al Khoud Call: +968 9955 9615

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CURRY BY THE CORNICHE STORY

PHOTOGRAPHY SALIM AL AFIFI

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woke up one morning with an unshakeable craving for naan and coconut curry. I rolled out of bed and called up my colleague at work and told her to get ready for a gastronomical adventure. I picked her up from the office and instead of heading for Ruwi, I drove straight to the Muttrah Corniche.

On the bustling Muttrah Corniche overlooking the marina sits Kurkum, a chic restaurant that serves fine Omani-style Indian cuisine. The restaurant looks as much like a high-end boutique or lounge as it does an eatery, from its blue neon light sign board reading ‘Kurkum Restaurant’ in Arabic and English, to its all-white leather interior, accented with pops of colour courtesy of bougainvillea flowers set on each table.

As we entered, a gentleman greeted us warmly and escorted us to a rounded table by the window. I took in the view of people walking by before turning my attention to the menu. The waiter presented us with a complimentary drink of rose water laced with drops of lemon and mint leaves while we perused. The sweet-smelling scent

Curry Coconut Sauce Make your own easy coconut curry to which you can add leftovers for a fast, super-delicious supper.

Ingredients • 1 cup light coconut milk • 2tbsp soy sauce • 2tsp sugar, or to taste • 1tsp of salt, or to taste • 2tbsp olive oil • 1tsp crushed red pepper • Zest of 1 lemon • 1tbsp minced garlic • 1tbsp curry powder • 1 cup chopped fresh basil • Cooked veg or meat, for serving • Steamed rice or bread, for serving Preparation • Mix the coconut milk, soy sauce, sugar, and a teaspoon of kosher salt in a small bowl.

• Place a skillet or a wok over mediumhigh heat. Add olive oil and heat for 30 seconds. Add red pepper flakes, zest, garlic, and curry powder; stir-fry until fragrant, about 15 seconds.

• Add coconut milk mixture and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute or until the sauce thickens. Add basil.

• Pour into a bowl, toss with cooked veggies or meat, and serve with rice or bread.

— Recipe courtesy of Nina Simond via realsimple.com

of rose was intense, which was perfect for me, and the taste was exquisite. But, I was on a mission, my eyes racing over the pages in search of the word ‘curry’. Turns out, I was spoiled for choices, and we ended up ordering three types — chicken with pickling spices; lamb roganjosh; and crisp, spicy prawn with spring onion.

We started with a spiced fish cake — minced Hamour fish with a crisp-fried outer crust served with coriander and tomato chutneys. One bite of the perfectly spiced fish cake, and I knew our meal was to be as delicious as it was well-presented.

Our waiter approached with a trolley full of delicacies, and the aromatic smell of Indian spices filled the air. Our curries were served with naan, a crispy, tandoor or oven-baked Indian bread, and coconut rice: a moist, steamed white basmati rice tossed with shredded coconut and curry leaves. The rice was perfectly cooked, and the beautiful aroma of coconut made me salivate.

The chicken with pickling spices, was a mildly spiced, creamy dish made of boneless chicken simmered in yoghurt

with ginger, vinegar, and Indian spices.

Yoghurt-based curries never fail to impress me, and this particular one was delightful.

The spicy prawn featured jumbo prawns cooked in a dense, mild tomato sauce mingled with Tabasco sauce and ketchup, and tossed with tomatoes and spring onions. The sauce had a subtle sweet taste, those who like sweet-salty dishes will enjoy this. As for the crustaceans, they were nothing short of absolute excellence: Crispy and well cooked with a fresh, oceanic scent.

The rogan josh, however, was the star of the show. This dish of gigantic pieces of fresh boneless lamb was draped in a flavourful, thick, brown-onion gravy. I couldn’t stop eating the meltingly tender lamb, or soaking up its amazingly delicious and aromatic gravy with pieces of bread.

After filling our tummies with curries and rice, I enjoyed one of my favourite desserts; a cashew nut flavoured ice cream made of cream milk and dry fruits, called kaju kulfi.

It was a perfect finish for a perfect meal.

—salim@timesofoman.com

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What to Order Lamb roganjosh — OMR9 Chicken with pickling spices — OMR8 Crisp spicy prawn with spring onion — OMR11 Spiced fish cake — OMR7.5 Coconut rice — OMR5 Naan — OMR2 Mixed bread basket — OMR6 Kaju kulfi ice cream — OMR7 ---------------------------------------

Kurkum Restaurant Muttrah Corniche, Muscat +968 2471 4114 kurkumoman.com Opening Hours Saturday to Thursday 11.30am – 10.30pm Friday 1pm – 10.30pm

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OMANI SLANG Interspersed with the Arabic conversations overheard throughout the capital city, even native Arabic speakers might be surprised to hear some unfamiliar words. Though Arabic is the official language in the Sultanate, there are all kinds of words and phrases that are purely local. Here’s your monthly primer from Hi’s Omani team members Salim Al Afifi and Asmaa Al Balushi.

STORY SALIM AL AFIFI & ASMAA AL BALUSHI ILLUSTRATION WINIE ARIANY

Want to learn a particular Omani phrase or saying?

Get in touch with us on Facebook/ HiWeekly and we’ll post your tutorial on our “All-Local Omani Tuesdays”.

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PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE CARL THOMPSON

STORY SALIM AL AFIFI

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t is fascinating how fabrics and contemporary art come together, fusing and complementing one another, in the wearable creations we call fashion.

With garments that are edgy, chic, and utterly unique, the pieces coming out of Janaab Sayyida Daliya Fakhri Al Said’s House of Zaya are absolute show-stoppers.

The artistic journey of fashion, from its creation to its presentation on the wearer can bring out a kind of thought-provoking rebellion, which is certainly the case for House of Zaya, a concept-driven, unisex fashion brand whose collections are composed of ultra-futuristic, handmade garments that are crafted to perfection by the talented Daliya Al Said herself.

Daliya Al Said grew up around the world, from Japan to Germany to South Africa, and was raised in a creative environment; her mother is a potter with a successful business, and her father works as an Omani ambassador, currently in Malaysia. At heart, Daliya is an experimental artist, and she found her focus after becoming acquainted with fashion and realising that her true passion was creating usable conceptual art. She moved to Australia and studied fashion and textile at Curtin University in Perth in hopes of honing her skills and turning her creative vision into a reality.

Moving to Australia opened new unexplored doors for the young designer as she started experimenting and designing pieces for herself. She played with various fabrics — mesh, organza, silk, sheer polyester, and translucent knits, as well as materials such as gold embroidery, metallic threads, sequins, and holographic plastic.

Her bold style caught people’s attention, and in 2013 House of Zaya came to life when she released her first collection, “Ghoti”, which was inspired by waterpollution and featured fish-scaled fabrics and materials.

The following year, she began work on her second collection, a hybrid of Bedouin fashion and contemporary art. “I wanted to educate people in my class, to show them that we have cool things in our culture,” she said. The collection was a hit and was featured in the opening of the Fringe World Festival 2014 in Perth.

Daliya’s portfolio continued to grow as she began styling, everything from an editorial photo shoot for German magazine, Material Girls, to ad campaigns for Australian Generic Accessories and Boudoir Spa in Oman. And, earlier this year, House of Zaya found its digital home with the launch of her online store.

This fresh, young clothing line has attracted quite a bit of acclaim with only two collections under its belt, and all eyes are on Daliya as she prepares her third collection, which promises to be more localised with playful, sparkly touches.

I appreciate designers who put a lot of thought into what they create, because as a consumer, when I’m on the hunt for a bomber jacket or a new pair of pants, I know I could easily walk into a Zara and walk out with a great basic. But what I want out of my clothing is expression; pieces that will portray my sense of fashion.

When you find a piece of clothing that you love, it is either a reflection of you or of the person you want to be. So, how could you not feel an overwhelming desire to own a beautiful object that perfectly encapsulated one facet of your being when you come across it?

I had one of those moments as I explored the current Zaya collection. It came in the form of a purple translucent organza jacket, a killer look I’d sport any day. I love it and I want it. I want it because what I really desire, and what House of Zaya delivers, is an expression of bright, brilliant, fearless individuality.

—salim@timesofoman.com

Buy Wearable Art at HOUSE OF ZAYA houseofzaya.com Instagram: @houseofzaya E-mail: info@houseofzaya.com

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GIFT OF THE MOUNTAIN ROSE STORY SHRUTHI NAIR PHOTOGRAPHY TALIB AL WAHAIBI

Oman is a land of incredible natural beauty, from desert stretches to miles of fertile coast to lush, mountain farms. The traditional ways that local Omani people make use of the bounty of the earth, might surprise you. I certainly was when I headed up Jebel Akhdar, the Green Mountains, to learn what was so special about their rose gardens.

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s soon as I crossed the Hormuz checkpoint, it felt as though I’d entered a different world. Far from the concrete jungle of Muscat, I was in the heart of the natural wilderness of Oman, in the jewel of the Hajar mountains, Jebel Akhdar.

The air and the smell of the place was fresh, untouched by the impurities of development, and as we ascended the green mountain, the temperature continued to drop, the view growing ever greener. We spotted Zaitoon (olive) trees, triangular shaped Al Alan (juniper) trees, and various other trees filled with wild berries.

On top of one of the plateaus, I looked down over the rocky cliffs and saw little patches of agricultural villages dotting the valleys and mountain sides. They reminded me of the ancient civilisations I had read about in history textbooks in

school. I soon found out that these were the villages of Jebel Akhdar, some of which had been abandoned over the years, while others were still inhabited. One such village was Al Ayn, which literally translates to “The Eye”.

This small village had a lot to offer to a journalist who had gone to the mountains hunting for a story. As we drew closer, I could see that the village was made up of a collection of dihijan, small mud huts decorated with bright coloured doors and windows. At the top of an elevation at the edge of town, I was awestruck at the sight of a sprawling plantation farm covering the cliffside: a blanket of green, a huge walnut tree with tiny walnuts budding out of the branches, a green falaj spring running along the peripheries of the farm, with plants and trees of different shapes and a particularly spectacular spread of pink buds and flowers that swayed gracefully with the cold wind.

I made my way down to the farm, and the

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BY SOME ACCOUNTS, THE ORIGIN OF ROSEWATER PRODUCTION DATES BACK TO CLEOPATRA’S TIME, WHEN SHE USED IT FOR HEALING AND BEAUTIFICATION...

sweet smell of the roses overpowered my senses. Far from a decorative rose garden, these flowers are one of the key ingredients in one of the most famous specialities of Jebel Akhdar: smoky rosewater.

Rosewater distillation is a very old handicraft, the people in Al Ayn have been actively involved in it for at least 500 years, and it remains one of the primary occupations of the villagers here. The process is a simple but tedious one, keeping the distillers completely occupied for about three months every year, beginning in midMarch when the plantation farms turn pink as ward al jabal, or damascina roses, dominate the fields, through mid-May. Of the thousands of varieties of rose, only a few produce the fragrant oil required to make rosewater, damascina being one of the most famous of this prized variety. The distillery process will begin only when the villagers are confident that they have enough roses, typically about 2kg, to produce a full batch of rosewater.

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...OTHER THEORIES SUGGEST A PERSIAN EMPEROR, WHO ARRANGED ROSEWATER FOUNTAINS AT HIS WEDDING TO THE PRINCESS, LOVED THE FRAGRANCE SO MUCH THAT SHE HAD THE FLOWER WATER BOTTLED AND DELIVERED TO HER FROM THEN ON.

Once a sufficient amount of roses have bloomed, they are plucked and kept covered under a wet blanket for three to six hours.

The damp roses are then stuffed in 15-litre pots and a small copper bowl, known as tasar/salha, is placed on top of them.

The opening of the pot is sealed with a wet fabric and a wood fire is ignited (these days many are switching to gas-heated flames) below the pot. Within 30 minutes, the vapour starts evaporating off of the rose petals which will create a condensation on the surface of the wet cloth, dripping back down into the copper bowl. It takes nearly three hours for the copper bowl to fill, and when it does, the liquid is poured into another vessel, the burnt petals are replaced with fresh ones, and the process begins all over again. This cycle will continue 24-hours-a-day for two to three months, until the season ends around mid-May. Prized, pure rosewater, made using only rose and water, is typically identified by its crystal clear colour, but the rosewater of Jebel Akhdar, while pure, is quite different. In addition to having a much longer shelf life than typical rosewater, it is brown in colour, and features a prominent smoky smell

and taste due to the fact that in this simple distillation process the petals are allowed to char and the liquid, rather than being distilled in an open system, is tightly sealed in a closed system where it is allowed to take on the smoky scent and flavour of the burning petals. It is said to have medicinal properties, curing headaches and improving the skin, and the water is often sprinkled on guests and visitors to the mountain small villages to welcome them. But the primary use of this water is culinary.

If you sip a cup of kahwa served to you by the locals in Dakhiliyah, then it will no doubt taste different from the delicate rosewater-laced coffee you’ve tasted down in Muscat. The biggest consumer of the smoky rosewater in Oman are the halwa factories who use it for the distinctive flavour it adds to traditional Omani halwa.

Like so many of life’s most delicious discoveries, this unusual rosewater was likely born out of the necessity for a simple distillation process, but the smoky result was to become one of Oman’s essential flavours, one which always felt faintly familiar to me, but that I could never identify until my trip up the mountain.

—shruthi@timesofoman.com

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

SWEATING ROSES The traditional method of distilling rosewater in Oman is relatively simple, but results in a complex, smoked rose product that is prized throughout the country.

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Distillation process Rose petals are distilled in traditional mud ovens called Al Duhjan, specially built in the interior of a room and is attached to the walls.

It has six cavities (Burmah) to distill the essence

30 minutes (Boiling starts) Two to three handful of rose petals (previously soaked and harvested on that day) are placed into the Burmah

A copper vessel (Salha) is placed over the petals.

This bowl will gather and collect the precipitation. The Burmah is then closed by a copper plate covering (Qars) containing water.

The ridge serves as a support during the process of distillation, to avoid the heat of the oven surface

3 hours regularly When the Salha is full, the rosewater is collected. Each load of petals could last between two to three hours. The burned petals are removed and replaced by new ones.

Smoke and heat output

Burned petals

Qars Water

One load of petals can produce one quarter-litre of rose-water

Salha

Al Burmah

Stove

Cold water to keep the humidity inside

Copper qars Copper has anti-microbial properties, so it is a good material to preserve the quality of rosewater

Gas Nowadays the oven may be gas fired but previously the wood of Sidr trees was the preferred fuel, because the fragance of its smoke 2

Oven (Al Duhjan) It is made of cement but previously from mud. The size of the oven depends on the rose fields and the volume of production

The stove needs some reinforcing steel bars in order to give resistance to the concrete against the changes of temperature and the weight

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Inside the Burmah

Vapour 3

Burmah is the clay pot where the condensation occurs. It is suspended inside the oven, and it is isolated below by a mud layer to protect it from direct fire. The Burmah is filled with soaked petals up to half of its capacity and where a Salha is placed in the middle

Cloth piece acts like a sealer for the vapour

Level of the water indicates the process inside

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1

Cement surface (Stove)

Rose oil

1 By the heat of the oven, the essence of the rose begins to evaporate, the steam doesn’t come out, maintaining a moist environment

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Petals

When the essence is condensed, the oil drops fall into the Salha due to the convex shape of the cooper bowl

Graphics

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The steam builds up and meets the cold surface of the copper plate that covers the oven, so the condensation begins

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

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Friends Of Rodrigo Duterte (FORD - Oman) organised a mini-concert, ‘Tunog ng Pagbabago’ (The Sound of Change) at Saud Bahwan Ballroom in Al Khuwair, Muscat. The event attracted more than 200 overseas Filipino workers who are likely to cast their vote during the month-long Philippine election. Photography: Nestor Guerrero

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

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The Oman Down Syndrome Association headquarters was inaugurated in Athaiba under the auspices of His Highness Sayyid Asaad bin Tariq Al Said, the honorary chairman of the association.

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

Home Centre organised an event in their store in Muscat City Centre to celebrate the launch of “Women’s Tuesdays” with an interactive creative culinary workshop. Photography: Jun Estrada

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

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Babylon Medical Centre at Amerat opens a new visa medical unit.

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HI WEEKLY

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 16 APRIL 15, 2016

SUDOKU HOW TO PLAY Fill empty cells with the numbers 1 to 9, so that each number appears once in each row, column, and area.

Level | Very Easy

Level | Easy

1 2

5

3

9

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4 1

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Level | Difficult

4 5 9 2

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Level | Moderate

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