OMAN’S LARGEST CIRCULATED WEEKLY — 46,760 COPIES
VOL 10 ISSUE 20 / MAY 13, 2016
A TRADITION OF BATTLE IN BATINAH PAGE 20
THIS WEEK IN OMAN
KNOCK ’EM DEAD
GO FISHING
HIT THE STREETS
Bowling is not only a fun (blessedly air-conditioned) way to pass the hot summer days here in Muscat; hurling weighty balls and listening to the satisfying crack of pins falling is also a great stress-buster. PAGE 10
The Hallaniyat Islands are home to dolphins, stingrays, and a plethora of other sea life in one of the last natural fisheries in the world, making it the perfect venue for catch-and-release fishing. PAGE 8
Street football is a popular way for amateurs and aspiring pros to get into the game, and now the OFA is calling all players to come try-out for the new National Street Football team. PAGE 18
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Give us a shout with questions, comments, compliments, complaints, or just to say “Hi” Founder Essa bin Mohamed Al Zedjali Chairman Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali CEO Ahmed Essa Al Zedjali scottarmstrong@timesofoman.com Chief Executive Editor Scott Armstrong felicia@timesofoman.com
Executive Features Editor Felicia Campbell Features Production Editor Swati Dasgupta Research/Copy Editor Ashish Dubash
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Senior Editors T. A. Ameerudheen Faisal Mohammed Naim Mohammed Shafeeqe
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faisal@timesofoman.com
Associate Editor Salim Hamood Al Afifi Shruthi Nair
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salim@timesofoman.com
Contributing Writer Asmaa Al Balushi
shruthi@timesofoman.com
Chief Creative Officer Adonis Durado
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Associate Art Director Waleed Rabin Graphic Editor Antonio Farach Design Editor Sahir K.M. Lead Designer Ali Jani Designers Antonio Ismael Sandiego Geri Batara Sonny Gregory Fernandez Director of Digital Television Joe Morrison Photography MMG Photographers
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Head Of Advertising & Marketing Aziz K. Baker Production Manager Shafi Shaik On The Cover Design by Ali Jani Photography Shabin E For general inquiries or comments: HiWeekend@timesofoman.com
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THE WEEKEND LINEUP Your calendar of the hottest events happening in Muscat this weekend
12 13 14 THURSDAY
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
10am Indulgee in a Thai Shopping ing Spree
7.30am Stretc Stretch it Out
9.00am Make Your Own Bling
Over er 100 Thai firms will participate in ann exhibition of products ducts from Thailand d from May 9th to t 13th. Oman International ntern national Exhibition tion Centre +968 8 2451 24551 2100
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
12pm Dine with a Star Visit Jashnn rest restaurant taurant this Thursday rsdayy to try the newlyy lau launched unched menu of m modern Indian dishes courtesy es co ourtesy of consulting celebrity ng ce elebrity chef Ajay ay C Chopra, Meet the man hhimself who will be on-s on-site site for the menu’s premier. u’s p remier. Lunch begins ns att 12pm, dinner at 8pm, pm, OMR 11.900 per p person. Jashn Rest Restaurant, taurant, Al K Khuwair +968 2448 8 244 48 8521
In cele celebration of International Yoga Internati Day, go learn sun salutations, salutatio tips on staying healthy, stayin and get your y blood pressure and sugar tested for free. teste
Le Grand Hall, Ha Al Falaj +968 2470 2311
If you are into traditional jewellery, then you’ll love this three-day workshop where you will learn how to make Omani-style silver jewellery. It’s fun, informative, and, best of all, you get to keep all the jewellery you make. OMR150 for three classes, which will be held on the 14th, 21st, and 28th. Mazayen Showroom Al Khuwair +968 9468 3017 mazayen.net/workshops
7am Get in the Game Every kid in Oman dreams of playing for the National Football Team, and now the OFA is offering the chance to prove your skills and join the Beach Soccer National Team at the Oman Oil Beach Soccer Cup. Whatsapp OFA for more details +968 9015 8158 ofa.om
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Have you tried any of these five? What do you think of them? Did we miss any of your favourites? Tag us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly
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FIVE SPECIALTY TO TRY SOUQS NIZWA SOUQ FOR TRADITIONAL WEAPONRY Visit Oman’s most popular traditional souq in Nizwa, famous for dealing with a huge variety of antique weaponry including hunting guns, rifles, butchering knives, as well as khanjars (also called daggers). This touristic destination is strategically located next to the Nizwa Fort, which makes it a perfect day-trip destination. NIZWA, AL DAKHILIYAH 22°55’56”N , 57°31’53”E
AL JUM’A SOUQ FOR USED CARS Al Jum’a is a unique souq located in Wadi Kabir. Held exclusively on Fridays, it is a famous destination for buying and selling used automobiles. It is a must-visit if you’re on the lookout for a used ride at a bargain price. WADI KABIR, MUSCAT 23°35’45”N, 58°33’21”E
MUTTRAH SOUQ FOR ANTIQUES Spend your weekend discovering the wonders of Oman’s oldest souq, Muttrah Souq. Located on the Muttrah Corniche, the souq is one of the most historic and popular tourist destinations in the country. It offers a variety of exotic goods and consumables, but is best known for its remarkable antique khanjars, silverware, wooden crafts, and traditional items that are sold at cheap, negotiable prices. MUTTRAH, MUSCAT 23°37’09.4’N, 58°33’49.6’E
SEEB SOUQ FOR TAILOR-MADES Seeb Souq is a traditional souq, but more modern than its counterpart in Muttrah. There you can find a variety of goods, but it is most popular as a one-stop for traditional Omani garb. From dishdashas to kummas to mussars and sandals, numerous shops offer men’s national dress in a variety of materials and fabrics. There are plenty of abaya and tailor shops for women, too. SEEB, MUSCAT 23°41’5”N, 58°11’1”E
FANJA SOUQ FOR POTTERY Head to Fanja Souq in Al Dakhiliyah governorate to explore the wonderful world of Omani pottery. The souq is 75km away from Muscat, and offers a variety of goods, but is a destination for the beautifully handcrafted clay pottery that is made by locals in the area. FANJA, BIDBID, AL DAKHILIYAH 23°27’50”N, 58°6’42”E
DAR KALEMAT Dar Kalemat is the official account of author Fahad Aloudah. If you are looking for the latest Arabic novels, children’s books, or poetry, Dar Kalemat with keep you up-to-date. Instagram: @dar_kalemat
JAMALON BOOKS If you are looking for updates on scientific, literary, religious, philosophy, medical, and informational books from Arab and Western writers and thinkers, this is the account for you. They offer titles in both Arabic and English. Instagram: @jamalonbooks
BARNES & NOBLE See what’s trending on the global book market with the Barnes and Noble bookstore account. They also post professionally shot pictures of books, as well as behind the scenes of book launch events. Instagram: @barnesandnoble
VALORE BOOKS Valore is an online bookstore where students can buy new books and sell the used ones. Unfortunately, their service isn’t available in Oman, but we still love their IG account for its hilarious memes about studying and reading, along with study tips. Instagram: @valorebooks
MAGRUDY’S This massive international bookseller imports the latest and greatest titles from around the world to Dubai. They are one of the best retailers for ordering books here in Oman, as the shipping is free. Follow the shop to find out what’s new and popular. Instagram: @magrudys
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
HI SOCIAL BOOKSHOPS TO FOLLOW ON IG
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Where are you escaping to this weekend? Show us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly
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WEEKEND ESCAPE
Exploring the Wild Waters of Hallaniyat Discover the Hallaniyat Islands, an archipelago, that is home to one of the last untouched fisheries in the world, providing refuge to dolphins, turtles, and manta rays. Go catch a glimpse of these spectacular sea creatures or try your luck catching a 60-kilogram Giant Trevally. STORY OLGA AYMERICH PHOTOGRAPHY NO BOUNDARIES THURSDAY 12:00 Escape from the office at lunchtime and head to the airport. 14:45 Fly from Muscat to Salalah. 17.00 Arrive in Salalah and look for the No Boundaries team (noboundaries@elitetourism.com; noboundariesoman.com) who will be waiting with a minibus to whisk you away on a scenic three hour journey up the Dhofar coast. 20.30 Arrive at your remote, sea-side luxury lodging and enjoy a home cooked dinner before heading off to bed. You’ll need a good night’s rest in preparation for the next day’s hunt for the big fish.
FRIDAY 08.00 Get on-board the awaiting fishing boat. Your target location, the Hallaniyat Islands, one of the last intact fisheries in the world, is only 50km away. 09.00 Watch the dolphins race with your boat along the way—the ultimate animal versus machine sea race. 10.00 Bait your hook and get ready to fish. Think about the boast-worthy Billfish, Tuna, Dorado, or monster Giant Trevally you’re going to pull-in. Forget about dinner though, you’ll release anything you catch after you tag them and snap a photo. 12.00 After a couple of hours of hard fishing, replenish your strength with a packed lunch before you continue on your aquatic hunt. 17.00 Time to head back to shore, hopefully with stories and photos of your adventures at sea.
SATURDAY 09.00 Wake up to the fresh smell of the sea. Drink a cup of tea inside the charming hall of the lodge. 10.00 Enjoy some onshore fishing or hit the water with kayaks or surf and stand-up paddle boards from the lodge. 13.00 Have lunch with your new fishing buddies and argue over who caught the biggest fish before heading back to Salalah to catch your flight home. —hiweekend@timesofoman.com
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TO D LIST
ROCK AND BOWL STORY ASMAA AL BALUSHI
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hen I was studying in the university, before the final exams, I would often go to Al Masa Bowling Alley in Shatti Al Qurum to relieve myself of the exam stress. After I graduated, I continued to visit the bowling centre with friends to play as a group amidst the crowds of children, teenagers, and elders who filled the venue each weekend. Bowling is one of the few games that anyone can enjoy, and it is especially loved in our desert country, where it offers an active escape during hot summer days. As the story goes, bowling may have even originated in the Arab world, with traces of balls and bottles thought to be used for sport, found in Pharaonic tombs of ancient Egypt. The game as we know it today is traced back to eleventh century England and in 1895, the Americans founded the first union for bowling. Bowling requires a very smooth long wooden lane to facilitate the rolling of a heavy bowling ball that’s hurled towards 10 pins that are arranged at the end of the lane. The basic object of the game is
to knock-down as many pins as possible in as few a throws as possible during a ten-round (called frame) game in which each person or team gets two chances per frame to knock down their pins. As far as scoring the game, if all the pins go down in one throw it is a strike, if the remaining pins from the first throw are knocked down on the second try, it is called a spar and is marked on the score card as a slash. If the pins still remain after the second throw, the total knocked-down pins are counted as the player’s score. A strike is 10 points plus the number of pins knocked down for the next two rolls; a spar is 10 points plus the number of pins knocked down on the next roll. On the tenth and final frame, if you roll a strike you get two additional rolls in which to rack-up points. A perfect score in bowling is the coveted 300, for which a player would have to roll 12 strikes in a row. Even if you don’t keep score, practising the heavy bowling ball down the slippery lane is a great way to have fun and get in a little sport during the hotter months. And it remains my favourite way to knock my stress right out. —asmaa@timesofoman.com
WHERE TO PLAY YOUR FRAMES IN MUSCAT Oman Bowling Centre: Al Khuwair, opposite the Muscat Holiday Hotel +968 9136 7694 info@omanbowling.com Timings: Thurs-Tues 10:00am-2:00am Wed 11:30am-2:00am Al Masa Bowling Alley: Shatti Al Qurum, behind Al Saroj petrol station +968 2469 3991 almasamalloman.com Timings: Daily 10:00am-1:00am Star Bowling Centre: Qurum, next to the Natural Park, inside Fun Zone +968 2466 2988 Timings: Sat-Wed 9:00am-12:00am Thurs 9:00am-1:00am Fri 2:00pm-1:00am
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Q&A
Extraordinary Eastern Women
My name is Alankrita Sahai , Miss India Earth. I was the ďŹ rst Indian in the history of beauty pageants to win the maximum number of subtitles internationally.
Earth MISS INDIA
INTERVIEW WITH SHRUTHI NAIR
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So far, I’ve had a very adventurous journey, which has been full of surprises. How did you get into beauty pageants? Acting has always been a part of my life since school days when I was in school plays and dramas, but I wanted to be a sportsperson or an IFS officer. I never really thought that I was very glamorous when I was young. The idea of being a beauty queen or an actor never really crossed my mind. I was like a boy who would play cricket and not care about beauty or applying sunscreen or doing eyebrows or waxing. And my parents gave me the liberty to choose what I wanted to be. One day I was surprised when my friend told me that she wanted me to try my hand at a beauty pageant. I was a tomboy back then and denied the proposal immediately. My boyfriend and my best friend got together, planned and plotted and sent my pictures to a talent agency. Soon, I got a call from them telling me that I had been shortlisted. I was overwhelmed and nervous. I’ve always been a fitness freak, so the swim suit round didn’t get me sweating, but I called a makeup dada (artist) and hair team and asked them if they could get me ready for the rounds that were starting the very next day. I went to the competition in Mumbai and my name ended up being announced in the top 16. My parents were super supportive about the whole thing. Since then, it has been a roller coaster ride. After winning the title in India, I had 12 days before I had to go compete internationally. Usually, people get a year or six months to prepare. I thought it was impossible, because I would be competing with 100 countries, but my team got in all the best people from around the country for my hair, makeup, and outfits. And, less than two weeks later, I was all set to participate with 12 large suitcases packed and ready to go. I’ve been very very fortunate, I would say. I’ve worked really hard and I’ve invested a lot of time and energy, but I have reaped many benefits. How has your life changed since you won Miss India Earth? Life has changed tremendously. My private life has changed in terms of looking the part and acting the part. The way I look, the way I dress, the way I talk to people, and even the way I sit have all changed. There needs to be a dignity and responsibility when you are publicly representing yourself to people. For instance, I’m a very friendly person, but being a public figure now I can’t be over-friendly all the time. What has primarily changed in me is that I have become very responsible, very particular with time, and very organised. As far as my career is concerned it has taken a complete 360-degree turn. I’m more focused on my career now and I’m getting a lot of opportunities. I will be signing a film very soon and I’ve already done a few ad campaigns (for Pantene and Wildstone), which will be releasing soon. I think the title has given me a slight edge over other models because the Miss India and other international titles make you popular enough that many brands will come to you. Since I’m already a step ahead, I want to keep moving forward. The details are still underwraps, but can you give us some hints about the new movie you are working on? I’m working with this amazing director whose films have gone to prestigious film festivals and even to the Oscars. It is an art-meets-commercial film with a few established actors and a few newcomers working in it.
You have become a style icon, so what is fashion for you? Fashion is something that you’re comfortable in. What you wear defines you and reflects the attitudes you hold at that moment. Basically, it is combination of what you wear, how you look, what is your attitude is, and how you present yourself. It is unlimited and diverse, so everyday you need to set new bars. How do you feel about fashion in the Middle East? Every country has its own sense of dressing up and expression. I’ve always believed in the old saying that the more covered you are, the more alluring you look. Middle Eastern women who are so fashionable and know exactly which accessory, handbag, and shoe goes with which burqa, are perfect examples of that style mantra. As someone in the beauty industry, what are your views on body image? I do not agree with the 36-24-36 ideal figure norm. Starving yourself and being anorexic is not healthy and France has now banned anorexic models. I don’t mind women having a tiny waist, but its more important to look fresh and healthy. Having a good body is great. Having a healthy body is even better. The combination of the two is what you have to aim for. Every girl’s body type is different. So you need to be the best for your body. Social responsibility has become a major part of beauty contests. What social causes are you involved with? The causes that I am actively involved with are SOS and Helpage India. Besides those two, I have also worked with a lot of other NGOs, most recently, a school for the blind in Mumbai. I think that when you become slightly famous, you have a responsibility to extend a helping hand to those in need. When you have beauty or fame, you attract people’s attention, you have an authority in that people around you, including corporations, organisations, and the media, recognise you and will try to help you. Thus, it becomes easier for you to help simply because people will listen when you speak about your causes. Which iconic women are most inspiring to you ? Oprah Winfrey and Ellen DeGeneres. They have power and they do things for people. That’s what I love about them. I also look up to Meryl Streep and Priyanka Chopra because I feel she broke a lot of boundaries and barriers to achieve her goals. All these women are beautiful from within. But I want to be my own hero and be the best I can be. —shruthi@timesofoman.com
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CHANGING STORY PATRICIA GROOVES PHOTOGRAPHY SHABIN E.
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hild of Oman, Radhika Khimji emerged as a global artist from Muscat, a place of layered identity on the cosmopolitan crossroads of the trading routes linking the Arabian Gulf, Asia, and Africa. Her conceptual coordinates now stretch north to Europe and across the Atlantic to the other side of the world. What has always distinguished Radhika’s art is her raw, unstoppable originality… And it now roams through more rugged and inaccessible mindscapes. Radhika speaks of “loaded histories enmeshed with hidden signifiers of identity born of real-life places and displacements,” themes that run deep for this decidedly international artist, who lives several months a year in London, yet remains rooted in her hometown of Muscat. What she absorbs by exhibiting in places like Athens, Paris, Delhi, Port au Prince, and Marrakech create unpredictable transitions in the transformative art that she brings home, and the increasingly diverse places where she exhibits her work seem to reflect the ways in which we can learn more about who we are from the perspective of other places. What is most exciting about the current phase in her work is the global scope, which she explores and unpacks through her art pieces. “The signifiers of identity are constantly kept in a state of transit to shift points of view and mirror changes in temporality and culture. The outcomes, the fragments that emerge and are created, will go beyond documentation to exposition of creative processes.” To appreciate more fully Radhika’s recent works, which seem to emerge as oddly unfamiliar creatures that come from sources deep within where her probing consciousness encounters manifestations of the unconscious, it’s rewarding to view them in context of her previous work. Radhika continues to employ certain recurring motifs, including ‘dots’, perhaps initially inspired by the scattered stones that populate the wadis of Oman. Her dots are symbolic and kinetic and may be seen as pulsations, flashes of energy, drops of
PLAC
CES
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IN THE BIG PICTURE, DEEPER CROSS-CULTURAL UNDERSTANDING CAN BE A PILLAR OF STABILITY IN TROUBLED REGIONS RADHIKA KHIMJI STAY UP TO DATE WITH HER LATEST WORK AND UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS AT RADHIKAKHIMJI.COM
blood, empty spaces, fresh bullet holes, and spinning planets. Radhika’s signature stitching with red thread to make a bird’s nest, a moon, or an abstract line serves to uproot the meaning of embroidery, transforming it into minimalist art on a contemporary horizon. Another signature theme reappears in the ‘Shifters,’ life-size cut-outs of faceless, sometimes muscular, always awkward humanoid beings, which have danced in nets on walls, dropped with parachutes into the courtyard of Barka Castle, transformed the ruins of a palace in Morocco and revolutionised gallery spaces in London, Paris, Berlin, Dubai, Delhi, Port au Prince. Some of Radhika’s Shifters have become more abstract and less decipherable of late. One of the Shifters, currently loitering at Gallery Sarah, is simply an outline that tempts the imagination of viewer into active participation, which, it turns out, is one of her primary aims. “My work unravels identities from
different geographic and cultural perspectives through interactive installations that may include the Shifters and display photo collages and drawings on paper. The works are made abstract and fragmented, destabilising cultural hierarchies to render visible the intangible qualities of places and how they may relate to each other,” she explains. “Identity is investigated as multifarious, fluid and complexly relational to place. Interactive psychological as well as physical journeys are opened up for possible exploration by viewers who can make discoveries about their own identities and mental pathways as they interact with the works. They can juxtapose meanings and integrate or disassemble ideas. In the big picture, deeper cross-cultural understanding can be a pillar of stability in troubled regions.” In an earlier stage of her career, after her début at Art Dubai, a critic spoke of Radhika as “One to watch”. Time has proved him right.
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AN ODE TO THE MIXED GRILL STORY FELICIA CAMPBELL | PHOTOGRAPHY ALI JANI Ubiquitous and beloved as they are in this region, not all mixed grills are created equal. Sure they have common elements — the cubes of tender, charred chicken and lamb; flavourful hand-formed skewers of minced meat and chicken kebabs, a few chops and a scattering of French fries, served alongside flatbread, hummus, and chopped salad — but every shop has its own “star” of the platter.
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CONTEST
OLD TURKISH, Al Khuwair
TURKISH CORNER, Al Ghubra
+968 2448 7822 Price for Medium Grill: OMR9 Star of the Grill: Crisp-fried mince-meat Arais and super succulent minced meat kebab are the first items to disappear off of this allstar plate, available for take away or to enjoy at one of the restaurants many outdoor tables.
+968 9506 1737 Price for Medium Grill: OMR7 Star of the Grill: Super juicy chicken tikka and chewy, fresh-baked flatbread along with a generous portion of Arais make this casual take-away joint a favourite for anyone in the Ghubra or Athaiba areas.
BABA SALEM, Qurum
CAMILIA CAFÉ, Ruwi
+968 9455 5530 Price for Medium Grill: OMR4.500 Star of the Grill: Pickles are a nice addition to this platter particularly good charred beef kebabs (the minced are fantastic as well), which are served for takeaway or in their very nice garden dining area.
+968 9245 0927, +968 2478 9848 Price for Medium Grill: OMR6 (plus seafood upgrade at market price) Star of the Grill: At Camilias you can add absolutely excellent fresh hamour and grilled prawns to your already generous mixed grill, for a totally opulent feast.
DINING TIP-OFF: WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE MIXED GRILL IN MUSCAT? We are on the hunt for more fabulous places to get our mixed grill fix. This weekend, tag us in your mixedgrill instagram photos @HiWeekly_ Oman or comment on this story on our facebook page Facebook.com/ HiWeekly_Oman with your suggestions by Sunday night, May 15th. The best three “hidden gems” will be published next week and three of the lucky “tipsters” who suggested the places will win prizes in a rafflestyle draw.
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Each evening the streets of Muscat transform into playgrounds for passionate footballers who fill alleys, parking lots, empty lawns, and beaches
STORY T.A. AMEERUDHEEN
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porting T-shirts inscribed with the names of Messi, Ronaldo, Neymar, Rooney, and other football stars, they transform parking lots, alleys, empty lawns, and sandy beaches into football pitches each night. The make-shift fields will witness highintensity matches with players dodging past opponents and finding the back of the imaginary nets with deft moves. The games continue till twilight sets in. That’s when the ‘stadium’ witnesses a rare camaraderie as ‘stars’ from opposing sides exchange pleasantries before retiring to their homes. Street football has always been a huge source of inspiration for footballers in Oman. For them, it is all about passion and fun. The rules are quite simple. Pitches can be made anywhere at any time. Neither the playing area nor the number of players is pre-determined. Gear is not mandatory, but no one will stop you from putting the trunk on. And officials are a rarity as players themselves oversee the matches in the true spirit of this beautiful game.
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OFA Street Football League Rules NO REFEREES Players will settle the disputes 20-MINUTE GAME Two halves of 10 minutes each 5-A-SIDE Each team can have five players at a time on the field 10 PLAYERS Each team should register 10 players for a game ROLLING SUBSTATION Players can be replaced when the match is on
Little wonder then that amateur footballers throng the streets, despite the availability of well-maintained artificial and natural grass football grounds. “I have to prepare a lot if I want to play with the club side. I believe that football is all about fun, and that is why I prefer street football. It allows me to play near the parking area near my home,” said Ahmed, a Seeb resident. Rahim has a different reason to take to the streets with his friends in a parking lot in Wadi Kabir. “I am not a trained footballer, but the game is close to my heart. I cannot get a chance to play in a club side. I watch all the English Premier League and Spanish League games on television, and I try to emulate my stars on the street,” explained the ardent Cristiano Ronaldo fan. The soaring popularity of street football has caught the attention of the Oman Football Association (OFA), the game’s governing body in the country, which announced the launch of a competitive league recently. “The Street Football League will give opportunity to
GO PLAY MATCHES BEGIN MAY 20TH Venue Seeb Football Stadium (six pitches) Details May 20, 21 (first week); May 27, 28 (second week); June 3, 4 (third week). Matches will be played from 9am to 6pm Total teams 36 • Entry Fee OMR 50 Contact OFA via Whatsapp +968 9015 8158
ofa.om
hitherto unknown stars to showcase their skills in a huge platform. The competitive community league will unearth talents from different parts of the country,” said Alister J D’Silva, head of events at OFA. The league, which kicks-off on May 20, will be played during three weekends. “The first week’s schedule will conclude on May 21. The teams will be seen in action on May 27, and 28 (second week), and June 3 and 4 (third week). As many as 36 teams will vie for the honours,” he informed. The league is offering passionate, yet unknown footballers a chance to test their skills and impress the selectors for a chance to earn a place on the National Street Football Team, with the best players even standing a chance of earning a spot on the Oman National Football Team. Alister believes that no footballer can afford to miss the offer. “I believe footballers will grab the chance with both their legs, which will further popularise street football in Oman.” Are you ready to hit the streets and show them what you’ve got? — ameerudheen@timesofoman.com
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ne early summer Friday afternoon in Al Khabourah, Salim Abdullah Al Douhani, a key organiser of bullfights in the village, led us to a barren stretch of land a few metres away from the main road. The 34-year-old, who works as a Human Resources Manager in UMS in Muscat, has been watching bullfights since he was a boy. Bullfights have taken place in small Omani villages for decades, and nowadays, Salim drives down to Al Khabourah every Thursday evening to prepare his six bulls for the weekend, making food for them before taking them to fighting rings in various locations. But in today’s fight, he explained, his bulls would not be participating due to ‘health reasons’. We looked around for the other bulls and their owners, but there was nobody in sight. Around 4.00pm, a tanker came and sprayed water over the fighting ring to soften the soil, and after some time old pick-ups started rolling-in from all directions, kicking up the dust. They began unloading mighty bulls, most Brahma’s from India, Pakistan, and Spain, in various colour, breeds, and sizes, some of which must have weighed over a ton. “Before six or seven years, we had only local bulls and Salalah bulls,” said Salim. Now there are bull markets in Sohar, Barka, Fujairah, and Dubai where owners purchase these fighters. The young bulls are being reared on a high carb diet that is heavy in grains, dates, and dried fish. Salim gives his bulls milk, dates, and a spe-
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THERE WAS NO WHISTLE FROM THE REFEREE AS THE ROPES WERE REMOVED; THE BULLS SIMPLY CHARGED.
cially cooked mixture of greens, bananas, and dates. These prize fighters are also massaged daily and taken on long runs along the beaches. “But on fight day we won’t give them heavy food. If the stomach is full it cannot move that easily. For big bulls the preparation and controlled diet starts from the day before the fight,” he explained. Within half an hour the area was filled with the low rumble of owners talking and bulls bellowing. A crowd began flocking to the fight arena in pick-ups, SUVs, and sedans. The spirit and enthusiasm peaked, with the air buzzing with energy. Older, disabled spectators travelled in on chairs teetering in the backs of open pick-up, which pulled ring-side to get a good view of the action. Locals, mostly men, perched on the earthen wall around the ring, clinging bottles of drinking water, soft drinks, and bags of potato chips. Some villagers set up stands and began selling vegetables from their farms on the sidelines, while a few boys and men ventured into the ring and seated themselves there to get a close up of the action. “It’s exciting for people to sit in the ring to get a close view of the fight,” said Salim. “But once the animal gets angry, it’s very difficult to calm him down. They will just fight no matter who comes across.” Distressed bulls strained against their ropes, their grunts expelling steam and vapour as they dug at the ground with their hooves, getting ready for the charge.
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On an average 40 bulls vie for honour in every bullfight, but by 4.30pm almost 60 bulls had arrived at the venue for the fight. It seemed that the prospect of driving these snorting bulls weighing over a ton across kilometres of desert land was no deterrent for the proud owners, each of whom had to pay OMR3 for each bull participating in the fight. “After discussion with the bull owners, the referee selects a pair of bulls based on height, weight, and size. The key weapon is the curved horns, which helps the bull get a better grip on the opponent,” Salim explained. The contest rule is simple: Whichever bull forces the other to back down or flee, is declared the winner. The first set of owners lead their bulls with thick ropes looped through their heaving nostrils into the ring, which was already occupied by key organisers, a referee, some young fight crew, a commentator with a megaphone, and a few ardent fight fans seated in plastic chairs. Taken to opposite corners, the unrelenting animals, who were snorting and pawing the ground, turn to face one another from across the ring. There was no whistle from the referee as the ropes were removed; the bulls simply charged. Clack! The sound of horns striking against each other echoed around the ring as the vociferous spectators cheered on their favourite stars. The roaring crowd, the dusty air, the shimmering heat waves, and the agitation of the beasts, adds to the excitement. The bout lasted for four or five minutes
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THE ART OF BULLFIGHTING 1
Starting a fight Accordingly, the main judge selects and readies the bulls to fight. Bulls are brought to the centre of the arena and are released of the head-nose ties.
Now, the rope is moored again but only in the nose ring so it can easily be released when the fight begins.
The encounter A head-to-head combat. To protect the bull from getting injured, every fight lasts five minutes. An average of 30 fights are held in each fighting afternoon.
Auxiliary judge Two auxiliary judges assist in speeding up the fight: If any of the bulls refuse to fight, they will hit the soil with a stick so as to provoke the bull.
1,000kg of brute force The bull is a natural force machine. It uses its vertebral column along with its extremities to anchor itself to the ground and push.
They also facilitate the ropes in case it gets entangled with the animals during the fight.
until finally, one of the bulls retreated from the ring in defeat. Though the bulls do not get hurt seriously and there is no bloodshed; terror, mortification, and violence are apparent in the wild eyes of the animals. I learned that the owners call their bulls by pet-names, and up next, ‘Namrood’ and ‘Dash’ would be locking horns. Clack! As the fight began, Salim explained that if the bulls are getting out of hand and the two handlers can’t stop the bout, a crew of locals in dishdashas spring into action, sprinting across the mud to grab hold of ropes in order to separate the animals, each side resembling a tug of war. Pulling these mighty pugilists apart is no easy task and sometimes when separated, the unsatisfied, rampaging bull might make a final charge towards the opponent or the spectators. Other times, the bull simply isn’t in the mood at all, and makes a retreat without even attempting to fight his opponent, much to the embarrassment of the owner. We turned to watch as two bulls made a commotion as one chased the other out of the ring, forcing it to jump over the gallery as spectators leapt for safety. There would be at least 15 to 20 gruelling battles in each bullfight overseen by a lively
announcer who provides entertaining commentary during the events. There is no cash prize for the winning bulls in Khabourah, and there is no betting allowed either. But these bulls are still investments, as their prices increase with every victory. “During matches, many farmers come from neighbouring places to buy and sell the winning bulls. The prices of some of the bulls can be incredible. If a bull wins, its price can be increased by a few thousand Omani rials,” said Salim. Another owner from Sohar, Ahmed, agreed, explaining that he’d purchased his bull Jamr for OMR9,000 and sold after the fight for OMR12,000. According to Salim, the record price for a winning bull last year was OMR50,000. The fights continued, photos and cellphone videos uploading to YouTube almost simultaneously for the proud owners to watch and taunt each other with repeats. Watching the group of men, young and old, perched on dusty walls waving cellphones, it was clear that this is an ancient tradition, with a modern following — a legacy that the younger generation seems all too happy to take forward. —shafeeq@timesofoman.com *The next bullfight scheduled in Khabourah village is on Friday, May 20.
The ground is a moisturised beach sand.
The barker He introduces the bulls and the fight.
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Since man began to farm and domesticate bovine animals, bulls have been present in many forms of human activity. Both revered and feared, its force and bestial prowess is found in mythical figures and religious symbolism, as well as in many forms of cultural entertainment. One of these traditional spectacles that is found in the Sultanate and enjoyed by the Omanis and tourists alike is the art of bullfighting. This traditional bull-to-bull fight is an extension of natural fight for dominance that occurs among male animals of many species in the wild. And unlike the Spanish-style bullfighting (human versus animal), the bullfighting in the Sultanate is non-violent and non-fatalistic. It is more of a ritual - a show of force and fighting style - than a blood sport.
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The tie in the hoof remains fastened, only loosening up the rope so the bull can fight with liberty.
Nose rings are released and the fight starts.
Declaring the victor Each region has its own rules:
The main judge Based on its size and weight, he decides which pair of bulls will fight. He also signals when to begin the fight and when to end. And he also selects and declares the winner.
Ready for run The dishdasha is lifted, revealing the wuzar (undergarment) for easy run if it’s necessary.
In Barka, a bull loses if: It runs away from its opponent or if it receives two consecutive lifting hits.
In other regions, the bull loses if: It is downed to its knees by the opponent.
The Bullkeeper Together with his assistant, the chief bullkeeper is responsible for ferrying the bull during the event.
Ropes need to be released before the fight to avoid entanglement.
Any minor scratch is healed with sea water.
No inflated belly The bullkeeper will make sure that the amount of food given to the bull is reduced two days before the fight. A bovine's digestive cycle is completed within 70-100 hours. The diet consists of grass and water.
One or two sticks help bullkeepers and judges to handle the fighters.
Graphics
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Malabar Gold & Diamonds’ 10th outlet on Ruwi High Street was inaugurated by Bollywood actor Kareena Kapoor Khan.
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125th birth anniversary of Dr B.R. Ambedkar an Indian jurist, economist, politician and social reformer, was celebrated in Muscat. The function was graced by Indra Mani Pandey, Indian Ambassador to Oman, and K. Pathmanathan, the Sri Lankan Ambassador to Oman.
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Junior Student Council’s Investiture ceremony and English Language Day celebrations were held at the Indian School in Seeb.
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SUDOKU HOW TO PLAY Fill empty cells with the numbers 1 to 9, so that each number appears once in each row, column, and area.
Level | Very Easy
Level | Easy
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