H mag - June2013

JUNE 2013

H 5 BEST

WHITE NEVER DIES PAYING JOBS IN THE FILM INDUSTRY

ELLEN PAGE for H teen

SUNSCREENs photographed by joey shaw

VANESSA

BRANCH

Employed Published by WPI Ltd - ISSN 1828-6437 - Issue 68 - www.thehmag.com

digital SINCE 2006 > Over 16 MLN readers > Over 7 MLN copies downloaded

H Kristin Brady EDITOR IN CHIEF

Features editor Creative director Art director Managing director

> Available everywhere with any device Today, we have a new publisher, a new editor and a totally new team to give this glorious mag a new era.

In 2006 some of the printed magazines called us the web magazine; working with web photographers and web contributors.

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H mag

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ON THE COVER Vanessa Branch photographed by Joey Shaw and wearing Martino Midali

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contents/

58

32 16

Manhunts

20

The Stars of our Lives

Spotlight

Inside

24

Awesome New Inventions Inside

28

How Synesthesia Works Inside

32

42

Vanessa Branch Interview

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Also

Most Expensive Military Planes

Shia Labeouf Private

48

Like a Celeb

52

What Do Most Sharks Eat?

Wearing like...

Post-it

56

Laura Marlin

58

Paying Jobs in the Film Industry

Music

Trends

64

After Earth

66

Dvd

68

Zoe Saldana

Movies

What’s Around

Private

112

80 70

Women in Combat

78

Who’s in and out

Reportage

In & Out

80

White Never Dies

90

Inferno

92

Editorial

Books

96 96

You Can’t Even Tell Are Sunscreens Beauty

100 104

To Get A Better Sleep

The Coromandel

118

Google Glass

120

How to Make a Caesar Salad

Travel

Tech

Tips

How to Add Meaning to your Life How

106

Ellen Page

108

Luxury Industry Predictions

Food

122

Pets Are Good For Child Health Pets

H Teen

Shopping Strange Stuff

112

124

Play Your Way To Work Last Minute

Lifestyle

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spotlight/

He was about to become the most hated man in American, given the murder he had just committed. For the time being though, he had managed to slip out a door and into the night on horseback.

More than a week later -- with a law enforcement agency and an actual army on his tail -- John Wilkes Booth had continued to evade capture by slipping across the Potomac, aided by sympathizers. But April 26, 1865, found Booth hiding in a Virginia farmhouse, where Union soldiers set fire to the structure and lured him to the porch, killing him in a shootout.

Like unhappy families, every on-the-lam criminal is on-the-lam in his or her own way. For example, Whitey Bulger, a Boston mobster who spent 16 years hiding from authorities to avoid criminal charges, was taken into FBI custody in Santa Monica after ambling out to his garage to inspect a storage locker. On the other hand, you have Osama bin Laden, who spent 10 years hiding from nearly every global security agency imaginable, taken down by an elite force of Navy SEALs.

“If you happen to be reading this and setting up a command post, be sure that your suspect isn’t close enough that he or she might hear the briefings.”

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And then there’s your more run-of-the-mill manhunt, the kind we associate with cop shows: a criminal who initially eluded local police but, after some decent police work, is found within hours or days. Not something the FBI or Navy SEALs would deal with, but no small security matter in the community.

In this article, we’ll take a look at several different types of manhunts, and get some inside information about the tactics used to Get Their Guy (or Girl). Buckle the seat belt in your pursuit car, as we tackle some of the basics of how manhunts take place.

U.S. Manhunts: What You Need to Know One of the first things that happens in a manhunt on a more regional scale is to set up containment -- a term that means

one or more officers can see any exit the suspect might take. That doesn’t always just mean that a couple of police officers eye the block. Vehicle checkpoints or K-9 units might be used to sniff out a perimeter. After that, law enforcement will quickly set up a command post, where officers (or the press) can be briefed. Note: Location can be tricky.

If you happen to be reading this and setting up a command post, be sure that your suspect isn’t close enough that he or she might hear the briefings. It’s happened.

In the case of the 2013 manhunt for the Boston Marathon bombing suspects, the containment went far beyond the usual perimeter security. That was for some fairly significant reasons: First, the suspects were armed with explosives. Second, after one

Demetra Folkner

Joshua Green

Manhunts

suspect died, the other fled into a residential neighborhood. The police solution in this case was to put up a containment area of 20 blocks, while shutting down public transportation and putting residents in the restricted area on lockdown in their homes.

Most manhunt containments are a little more lenient though.

If you’re caught in the midst of a lockdown during a U.S. manhunt, there are a few things you should know about your own rights. The law says the police can’t just burst into your house looking for a suspect without probable cause. That means that if police see or hear something that gives them reason to believe the suspect is there, they can go in. (They are allowed to go

through lawns and peer in windows.) They can also enter without permission if they need to provide emergency services. Of course, they can also go door-to-door (like in Watertown) and look around your house if you give them permission.

But here’s the big one. Exigent circumstances (an emergency) might also allow them to enter a private residence -- and, arguably, a terror suspect armed with explosives might be the emergency that would impel officers to act without a warrant. The gamble is that if their intrusion is deemed unlawful later any admissible evidence is thrown out.

As you can imagine, not every manhunt is conducted by the area police department.

Depending on what the suspect has done,

several different agencies might take over jurisdiction. For instance, we’ll talk about a manhunt that took place for a “mountain man” charged with pretty minimal misdemeanors and break-ins. That years-long search was conducted by the local sheriff’s department. Oppositely, the Boston Marathon bombings were an all-hands on deck affair, involving everyone from surrounding police departments to the FBI -- thousands of officers from dozens of agencies [source: The Boston Globe].

An international case like bin Laden was led by the CIA but included collaboration among many federal and international agencies. Most agencies are very aware that such communication and collaboration is essential to a search.

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Before GPS, before the sextant, before even the compass, those who ventured across oceans found their way by looking up.

The Stars of our Lives How To Use Stars To Find Your Way When a damaged bow forced Steven Callahan out of a sailing race in 1982, his problems were just beginning. He docked for repairs, headed back into the Atlantic alone, and hours later his boat was smashed by a surfacing whale. He abandoned the sinking ship for a raft about 450 miles (724 kilometers) west of the Canary Islands.

Callahan survived a staggering two-and-a-half months at sea, lost, but not completely so: In the 77 days before a fishing boat spotted him near the Caribbean Islands, he tracked his movements and positions using the sky. Using three pencils tied together, he tracked his course over 1,800 miles (2,897 kilometers) and was only off by one degree [source: Thaler].

It’s what sailors have been doing forever. Navigation requires landmarks, and in the open sea, the landmarks are celestial – 20 H mag

Mark Spietzinger

Johanna Yelman

The North Star, or Polaris, is a fixed point. It sits above the North Pole, aligned precisely with Earth’s axis of rotation, so unlike every other star in the sky its apparent location never changes.

sun, moon, planets, and stars. Before GPS, before the sextant, before even the compass, those who ventured across oceans found their way by looking up.

At night, they used mostly stars – individual stars and larger constellations with known positions in the sky and in relation to one another [source: Smith]. Sailors and other navigators tracked them out of necessity. The ancient astronomers who started mapping them at least 5,000 years ago did it out of love.

Star navigation is actually pretty straightforward, on a clear night, if you know what to look for. Stars are navigational landmarks because they’re constants. Sure, they appear to move as the Earth rotates, but their actual positions and their orientations with regard to other stars never changes. So if

you can see them, they can point the way. All you need is your eyes, your brain and your body to get a pretty accurate reading on where you are and where you’re headed. Tools like compasses, sextants and maps make it easier and more accurate; GPS receivers make it mindless. Why bother, then, learning the natural approach?

Because compasses break. Maps get lost. GPS receivers malfunction – or just get it wrong.

But mostly, perhaps, because the universe is a great, mysterious code you can solve the tiniest bit by solving the stars.

So, you’re in some desert. All is sand and sky. You need to move. It’s nighttime. What do you do?

You look up.

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The helmet of the near future, however, may contain something more than extra protection from flying shrapnel.

Awesome New Inventions 520,277 applications with 50% of granted patents Some inventions are so ubiquitous that it’s difficult to imagine they started as an idea scribbled on paper and then a patent application submitted to, say, the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). Aluminum foil, adhesive bandages, the ballpoint pen, the computer mouse, the microwave oven -- these are just a few examples of great ideas that became indispensable products we now take for granted.

Nevertheless, of the 520,277 applications that inventors filed with USPTO in 2010, chances are that not even half will be granted patents, and far fewer will become commercial successes [source: USPTO]. For every new gadget that becomes a household name and changes our lives, there are thousands of others that languish in patent office files, unappreciated except perhaps as curiosities. Some of them are ingenious, but plagued with small but fatal flaws. Others are too outlandish to ever gain widespread acceptance. A few are simply ahead of their time.sun, moon, planets, and stars.

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Manolo Ispensia

Mariah Jelson

Some of them are ingenious, but plagued with small but fatal flaws. Others are too outlandish to ever gain widespread acceptance.

You’ll Never Hear About The helmet used by the U.S. military has changed dramatically over the years.

In World War I, the M1917/M1917A1 helmets, also known as “Doughboy” or “dishpan” helmets, protected the heads of American infantrymen. They were replaced in 1941 by the M-1 “steel pot,” the standard-issue helmet in World War II, the Korean conflict and throughout the Vietnam War. By the 1980s, U.S. military helmets had evolved into a one-piece structure composed of multiple layers of Kevlar 29 ballistic fiber.

The helmet of the near future, however, may contain something more than extra protection from flying shrapnel. An Arizona State University researcher, working under a grant from the U.S. Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency (DARPA), is trying to develop a military helmet equipped with technology to regulate soldiers’ brains. The technology is transcranial pulsed ultrasound, which delivers high-frequency sound waves to specific regions of the brain. Under the influence of these sound waves, neurons

send impulses to their targets, exerting control over them. On the battlefield, this has enormous implications. Using a controller, a soldier could release ultrasound pulses to stimulate different areas of the brain. For example, he or she might want to be more alert after being awake for many hours or relax when it’s time to catch some shuteye. The soldier might even be able to relieve stress or become oblivious to pain, eliminating the need for morphine and other narcotics.

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Synesthesia is a phenomenon where experiencing one sense (or cognitive pathway) results in the experience of another one.

How SynesthesiaWorks You might “see” the letter B as Red By the end of this article, you will probably think you have synesthesia in some form. At the very least, you will probably hope you do.

Synesthesia is a phenomenon where experiencing one sense (or cognitive pathway) results in the experience of another one. So you might “see” the letter B (typically uppercase and lowercase) as red or hear a word that makes you taste a certain flavor. Music, too, might be perceived as colorful, where a C note is maroon and F sharp is yellow -- it might change by octaves, too. Or maybe you see dates spatially -- Tuesday is always a yard or two to your right, a fixed position in space.

So have you found yourself already racking your brain, trying to decide if 8 is purple or the letter Q tastes like bananas?

If you really strongly understand any of these sensations, you might just be a synesthete. (Or synesthesiac, a term that doesn’t exist but I think should.) And although for a long time, researchers thought synesthesia was incredibly rare, it turns 28 H mag

Hanna Hostner

Sandro Corti

Not every synesthete experience is the same, either in people or between different synesthetic forms.

out that just asking someone if they experience these symptoms isn’t entirely accurate. A 2006 study that gave objective tests to subjects found that synesthesia was 88 times more likely than previously thought, and it affected 2-4 percent of the general population.

Not every synesthete experience is the same, either in people or between different synesthetic forms. For example, a small 2005 study found that while grapheme-color synesthetes (those who perceive letters, numbers or words as colors) almost always associate a word

with a color, many lexical-gustatory synesthetes (those who link words with a certain taste) don’t have a particular association with every word [source: Ward et al.].

Knowing that forms of synesthesia are not necessarily alike, let’s take (or taste?) a look at the next page and get a primer on some more common forms of the condition.

Different Forms of Synesthesia As a general rule, synesthesia can occur between just about any combination of senses or cognitive pathways.

The most common type of synesthesia is

grapheme-color. Graphemes (letters or numbers) take on certain colors to the synesthete. This is almost always uniform for each person, but not among synesthetes in general. For instance, one person with synesthesia could always see the letter A as red, but that doesn’t mean all synesthetes will experience the same color. (Although there are some studies that show certain combinations appearing more among synesthetes -- including A as inherently red. dran and Hubbard].)

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VANESSA d e y o l p Em

photographed by

joey shaw

Make up & Hair Style by Opus Beauty

“ I also am heading in a stronger philanthropic bent. I spent last summer in Tanzania and Rwanda teaching English which I ADORED. “ What are your weaknesses?

Bacon, Pork rinds, difficult men, foreign travel, puppies, my parents, my baby blanket, sauvignon blanc, red bull and vodka, game nights, nakedness, love stories, dancing on table tops, and a certain man named Mark. Though not necessarily in that order.

What are my strengths?

Please see above.

Where do I see myself in ten years?

I’ve learned that where I see myself and where I end up frequently differ. So I’ll just settle for happy.

Tell me about an accomplishment you are most proud of?

I had a friend years ago when I was first getting to know him ask me this question and I was surprised by my own answer but it is still the same. I am most proud of my relationships in my life. My family and my 32 H mag

friends. I am surrounded by wonderful people who I adore and there isn’t much else that matters to me but that.

What is my dream script?

I have always most loved period work.

And probably a love story period piece with great subtle writing and a profound heart. I love the medieval and Shakespearean ages. My dream roles would probably be akin to a Shakespeare in Love or a Pride and Prejudice, or a Les Mis if I could sing worth a damn.

What motivates you?

Love.

What are your career goals?

Oh boy. Well....They have been a changing recently. I have always loved acting. It is one of my true passions. But recently, and I think as we get older this happens, I have wanted to feel I am giving back more. So as far as acting goes, I am taking

branch

Los Angeles, Mondrian Hotel - Written by Eloise Matieux

“ I am surrounded by wonderful people who I adore and there isn’t much else that matters to me but that.“

Vanessa is wearing LORENZO RIVA

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Blue dress by Jean Paul Gaultier

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meetings abroad in London and Paris(I speak fluent French) and have made several films in China(I speak fluent Mandarin).

I want to work more internationally and in other languages more. I find it a great challenge. Then I also am heading in a stronger philanthropic bent. I spent last summer in Tanzania and Rwanda teaching English which I ADORED. There is a teaching program for languages I am setting up here in the states and a non-fiction book about women I’d like to write and along the way, I wouldn’t mind hosting a travel show. You asked.

SHANGHAI, CHINA

What are your hobbies? Ota asped magnime cupiti sed molupta sequi dendebit volorepti I love dancing. The cheesier environment the better.

Learning invenih illiquo officab am in any capacity. Love to read, be outdoors, travel,inti horseback arumqui landestia a que ride, play music, play board games,blaccum watch movies, have new et et out essum ium solut experiences, ski, eat great nim foodilitam and hang with friends. autem faccum evelit quam quo.

What makes you uncomfortable?

Answering questions about myself. Dishonesty, betrayal, unkindness.

Whats in your handbag today?

I hate handbags. I’m a tomboy. I try and shove everything in my pockets.

Your favorite playlist?

Either cheesy pop dance music or movie scores like Out of Africa, Mighty Joe Young, Schindlers List.

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What do you really love to wear in your free time?

HAHA! Good question. Bikinis if its warm enough, but otherwise my friends call it my “uniform” cuz I wear the same thing over and over. Cut off jean shorts or skirt, and a t-shirt with the same ratty pair of boots or sandals I wear everywhere. Its oh so glamorous.

What do you find attractive in a man?

Intelligence, kindness, loyalty, honesty, an enormous sense of fun and adventure, the ability to communicate well, confidence that is modest, passion for life, gentlemanliness, a little nerdiness, and being a real man instead of a boy.

And whats totally unattractive in a man?

Infidelity, defensiveness, being closed off and running away from things when life gets tough.

Do you like to cook?

My father was a world class chef who worked at the Ritz in Paris and the Dorchester in London. So naturally I burn water. I grew up on farms. I was the little outdoor girl and my sister was the indoor. I can milk goats, deliver babies and bail hay, but ask me to cook soup and you’re in trouble.

My favorite place in the world?

Sitting next to people I love.

Pull by MARTINO MIDALI

TOKYO, JAPAN Ota asped magnime cupiti sed molupta sequi dendebit volorepti invenih illiquo officab inti am arumqui blaccum landestia a que nim ilitam et et essum ium solut autem faccum evelit quam quo consequi debit fuga.

Itatem et eatur, officim illabor ecatis net qui ut omnihil ilis dit andigeniet.

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Most Expensive Growlers are capable of not only finding and disrupting anti-aircraft radar, but also jamming enemy communications.

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A

few days ago, a group of my colleagues in my office were talking about something. I got close to them and the question was, “Do you know which are the most expensive fighter jets in the world?” Some were saying B-2 Spirit is the most expensive one and the cheaper one is F/A-18 Hornet, but then I thought this is an interesting question so why not make a list of at least 10 or more most expensive fighter aircrafts in the world and publish them here at hubpages, so I researched a little bit and made a list of 11 of them.

This list of fighter aircrafts includes strategic bombers, stealth jets, and multifunctional combat aircrafts plus I am happy to make this list because I can also show it off to my colleagues. One more thing, I have marked the numbers to these fighter jets in reverse order, so the cheapest is displayed right here and the most expensive is at the end.

F/A-18 Hornet: $94 million First entering service in the 1980s, the twin-engine fighter plane was the U.S.’s first strike fighter — an aircraft capable of attacking both ground and aerial targets. It has seen action in Operation Desert Storm and as the aircraft of the Navy’s Blue Angels Flight Demonstration Squadron. The F/A-18 is also used by Canada, Australia, Finland, Kuwait, Malaysia, Spain and Switzerland.

Jordan Opheimer

Sunset Agency

Military Planes F-35 Lightning II: $122 million Lockheed Martin’s 2001 deal to build these stealth, supersonic fighter jets was at the time the largest military contract ever. The F-35s, intended to replace an aging aircraft arsenal, were developed as part of a Joint Strike Fighter program between the U.S. and its allies and were criticized as underpowered and overweight — and therefore easy targets. Making matters worse, from 2007 to 2008, cyberspies infiltrated the 7.5 million lines of computer code that powered the Joint Strike Fighter, raising concerns that enemies could copy the F-35’s design and exploit its weaknesses.

In April 2009, Lockheed Martin said it did not believe the program had been compromised.

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E-2D Advanced Hawkeye: $232 million A major step forward for surveillance and reconnaissance, the Advanced Hawkeye’s powerful new radar system will increase the range of territory an aircraft can monitor by 300%.

“It can probably watch the pistachios pop in Iran,” an analyst for the think tank Lexington Institute told National Defense in July. Though development of the plane is on track and two test versions have been delivered to the Navy, budget cuts may keep the planes grounded for at least a year longer than planned.

VH-71 Kestrel: $241 million This high-tech helicopter project, intended to replace the President’s aging chopper fleet, was running more than 50% over budget by the time Barack Obama took office. Soon after his Inauguration, the President announced plans to scrap the helicopters because of cost overruns. On July 22, however, the House Appropriations Committee unanimously approved restoring $485 million to fund the Kestrels.

P-8A Poseidon: $290 million Boeing’s sprucedup military version of its 737 jet will be used by the Navy to conduct anti-submarine warfare and gather intelligence. It can carry torpedoes, missiles, depth charges and other weapons. The P-8A is expected to go into service in 2013.

C17A Globemaster III: $328 million The Air Force military-transport plane is used to move troops into war zones, perform medical evacuations and conduct airdrop missions. There are 190 C17As in service; the aircraft is propelled by four turbofan engines (of the same type used on the twinengine Boeing 757) and can drop 102 paratroopers at once.

In operation since 1993, it has been used to deliver troops and humanitarian aid to Afghanistan and Iraq.

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The Advanced Hawkeye’s powerful new radar system will increase the range of territory an aircraft can monitor by 300%. “It can probably watch the pistachios pop in Iran,” an analyst for the think tank Lexington Institute told National Defense in July.

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Matteo Visconti

Shutterstock

Shia Labeouf “I am actually! I’m very proud to say I am a geek. But I’m kind of a cool geek.”

T

hough he’s a past Daytime Emmy winner for the Disney series Even Stevens and has had Steven Spielberg in his corner ever since he starred in Holes, Shia LaBeouf’s rise into the youth category of the Hollywood “It” pool didn’t come until after he started spying on his neighbors and ogling Sarah Roemer in Disturbia. Since then, he’s had the opportunity to battle giant robots (the Transformers movies), join filmdom’s most famous globetrotting archaeologist in Indiana Jones and the Crystal Skull, dodge artificial intelligence gone haywire in Eagle Eye, and now trade industry secrets with the stock market’s ultimate schemer Gordon Gekko in Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps.

Since his mainstream breakthrough in 2007, Shia LaBeouf has established himself as an energetic and charismatic performer on-screen and member of the Entertainment Weekly 30 Under 30, and AskMen Top 49 Men lists away from the camera. That said, he has yet to find adult roles that allow his performances to stand out from the elaborate action going on around him. In the Transformers films, he was surrounded by giant fighting robots and in Indiana Jones, he was understandably overshadowed by Harrison Ford and Cate Blanchett. If pop culture is currently pegging LaBeouf as a youthful lead for breezy summer blockbusters, so be it. He isn’t complaining and, besides, it allows for some great perks. How many guys can say that they’ve had a helicopter flying lesson from Harrison Ford? Shia LaBeouf isn’t what most women would call a conventional male sex symbol. Standing in at a mere 5’9”, he carries himself on-screen with a demeanor that’s more charismatically quirky than being outright rugged or sexy. While these quirks might have something to do with a childhood that involved wearing full clown gear (including make-up) and selling hot dogs from a cart, don’t get the mistaken idea that he’s quirky and innocent. With a few arrests and a suspended driver’s license to his credit, there are a few hints of rebelliousness to go along with the quirks. Throw it all together and you have a boyish, successful young star with an attitude, which often translates well when it comes to attracting the fairer sex.

TITLE HERE

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The Quay Eyeware WisDM Sunglasses in Tiger Tortoise, worn by Alessandra Ambrosio, are a men’s style wayfarer. It features a thick plastic frame with a matte black finish and dark lenses that sit slightly higher than the bridge. *THIS IS A PRE-ORDER ITEM AND WILL SHIP END OF JUNE. *READ IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING OUR PRE-ORDER POLICY HERE. Color: Tiger Tortoise

Material: Poly Carbonate Frame & Lens / Stainless Steel Hinges 100% UV protection Made in Australia Quay prounced “Key” The Tolani Sasha Tunic in Red Floral, as seen on Nicky Hilton, exudes boho-chic. Constructed of 100% Silk, it features a V-neck with drawstrings and long sleeves. The festive floral print completes this refreshing look. *THIS IS A PRE-ORDER ITEM AND WILL SHIP END OF AUGUST. *READ IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING OUR PRE-ORDER POLICY HERE. Color: Red Floral Fabric: 100% Silk Measurements: 32” Long / 18” Bust Imported Care: Dry Clean

The Wildfox Couture Friday Night Cutoff Shorts in Canyon Coral, worn by Ashley Tisdale, are fun and vibrant. These shorts are made out of durable cotton with lycra for flexibility. Featuring distressing at the pockets with fraying at the hem, these shorts are sure to turn heads.

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Elle Regussmann

The Tori Praver Swimwear Daisy Top in Black, worn by Miranda Kerr, is a waterside essential! This piece features smocked triangle cups and slim cutouts. The straps tie behind at the neck and the back. To complete this look, pair with the Tori Praver Swimwear Kalani Bottom in Black.

Ferri Agency

The Tori Praver Swimwear Kalani Bottom in Black, worn by Miranda Kerr, is a waterside essential! This low cut bottom features a rouched backside and moderate coverage.

To complete this look, pair with the Tori Praver Swimwear Daisy Top in Black.

The Vanessa Mooney Mystic Tiger Necklace in Brass, worn by Vanessa Hudgens, features a detailed curved tiger tooth pendant charm on a long brass plated chain.

Color: Brass Material: Brass Measures 37.5” Handmade in Los Angeles

The Love Quotes Knotted Fringe Scarf in Meditation, worn by Jessica Alba, is a celebrity favorite. With over 40 delicious hues to choose from, the fluid linen scarf is versatile and adds a punch to any outfit. Each scarf comes with an inspirational quote and 10% of proceeds go to international children’s charities.

Color: Meditation (black) Imported Dry Clean Fabric: 50% Linen / 50% Viscose Lightweight (w) 37” x (l) 72.5” (not including fringe) H mag 49

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post-it/

hat Do Most Sharks Eat?

They usually consume between 0.5 and 3.0 percent of their body weight each meal

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With close to 400 shark species floating around, you could fill volumes cataloguing their individual food habits. While cookiecutter sharks take nonlethal bites of flesh from their prey and call it a day, great white sharks may eat large sea mammals in one big gulp. And certainly the dietary customs of the 8-inch (20-centimeter) dogfish shark vary from that of the 60-foot (20-meter) whale shark, not to mention the different cousins, aunts and uncles in between.

Shark Image Gallery All sharks are at least partly carnivorous.

They usually consume between 0.5 and 3.0 percent of their body weight each meal since most space their dinners out to every two or three days. Although their bodies are well equipped for catching food, they can’t chew well, so they need time to properly digest [source: Cawardine].

Since sharks stand at the top of the aquatic food chain, their diets play an important role in regulating the species below them, much like lions in the jungle. For instance, if large sharks were to die out, that would increase the population of octopus, which in turn would feed on more lobsters [source: New York Times].

In addition, shark hunting habits help to perpetuate a survival of the fittest mode in their environment. To conserve energy, sharks often target weak, immature or sickly fish or mammals [source: Parker].

That weeds out the more vulnerable creatures and keeps the stronger, healthier fish and animals alive.

What fish and mammals in particular are sharks dining on? Find out on the next page.

Shark Diet Variations Setting the interfamilial variations aside for a moment, the average shark dines on fish, squid and crustaceans [source: Parker]. When it comes to more specific diet preference, here are some favorites of individual shark species: Hammerheads dine on stingrays.

Smooth dogfish sharks like to eat crabs and lobsters.

Tiger sharks eat sea turtles.

Blue sharks prefer squid. [source: SeaWorld] Interestingly, the largest shark species, the whale shark, does not hunt at all.

Enormous whale sharks, megamouth sharks and basking sharks filter feed on plankton. These species have specialized gills that sift through water to extract the microscopic algae and sea creatures that comprise plankton. Just by indiscriminately taking water into their mouths, basking sharks filter 528,000 gallons of water each hour, extracting 4.5 pounds (2 kg) of food [source: Parker].

Some larger, faster sharks extend their diet to include sea mammals, in addition to substantial fish such as tuna, mackerel and other sharks. Great white sharks, tiger sharks and mako sharks may also consume seals, sea lions, sea birds, dolphins and porpoises.

Tiger sharks are probably the least discriminating in their culinary tastes. Stomach contents from tiger sharks have included license plates, turtles, sea snakes and gasoline canisters [source: Discovery Channel].

If you aren’t sure what type of food a certain shark species eats, check out its mouth. Different sharks have specialized

Gillian Jorgner

Johannes Droik

Smooth dogfish sharks like to eat crabs and lobsters.

Tiger sharks eat sea turtles.

Blue sharks prefer squid.

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music/

Eleonor Gramsci

EMI

laura marlin

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Once I was an Eagle

he most immediately striking thing about Once I Was an Eagle is how relentless it feels. That is not an adjective readily associated with Laura Marling, although perhaps it should be.

On the one hand, profile writers have a tendency to depict the singer-songwriter as rather a delicate flower: young and aristocratic (her father is the Fifth Baronet Marling of Stanley Park and Sedbury Park), perpetually heartbroken and in charge of an acoustic guitar, as well as being pale and reserved – “with her grey-blue eyes and ghostly complexion, she has the intense, windswept look of a Brontë heroine”, as one interviewer put it.

She is an artist who suffers her way through playing live, which she once compared to having toothache, and worries about writing lyrics that are too personal “because my little heart can’t take it”. On the other, for one apparently so fragile and mild, there’s certainly something relentless about her work rate: at barely 23, she’s on to her fourth album.

Either way, the adjective fits here.

The album’s opening four songs – Take the Night Off, I Was an Eagle, You Know and Breathe – pass by without a pause. Apparently recorded off-thecuff, or at least in such a way as to deliberately and convincingly construct a sense of spontaneity, they bleed into one another, linked by a frenetic guitar motif that seems to be inspired in equal parts by Indian raga and the riff from Pink Floyd’s Fearless.

If you’re not watching the titles on iTunes change, it all sounds like one long episodic song. In fact, taken together, the thing they most recall, in structure and tone, is one of the scabrous acoustic epics with which Roy Harper made his name in the early 70s. For a delicate flower, Marling sounds remarkably splenetic: her voice seems to have been roughened by nicotine, which fits the toughness of the lyrics.

She rails away at “hippies” – apparently they “stomp empty-footed on all that’s good” – and a variety of feeble ex-lovers: “Every little boy is so naive,” she scoffs. One, a “freewheeling troubadour” whom some have suggested might be her former boyfriend Marcus Mumford, was, by her account, the drippiest of the lot.

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French Montana EXCUSE MY FRENCH

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aving launched his Cocaine City cartel and then aligned it with Rick Ross’ Maybach Music empire, Bronx rapper and hip-hop entrepreneur French Montana keeps building the co-branding with his official debut, which lands on Bad Boy with Interscope distribution.

Don’t forget that Akon’s Konvict Music was also involved in the album’s long road to release, and yet with this troubled birthing process, Excuse My French is something to be proud of, as scattershot and bloated as it is.

On that latter count, the features are everywhere with everyone from Max B to the Weeknd crowding out the man whose name is on the cover.

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till, when Birdman and Rick Ross show up for “Traphouse” it’s a three boss meeting and certain highlight, while the goon posse cut “F**k What Happens Tonight” is a grand journey from the Bronx and Kingston with dancehall singer Mavado providing the hook as Snoop Dogg transitions to Snoop Lion right before your very ears (he’s reggae friendly here, but hasn’t said goodbye to the gun talk yet).

Am Idol judge Nicki Minaj gets back to Cash Money business with her kinetic roar of a performance during the great “Freaks,” and just to prove he’s up to the solo cut, the album’s greatest hook lands on “Ain’t Worried About Nuthin’” where Montana nails it on his own.

The rest of the album suffers from redundancy and some wasted opportunities with the guests, but Montana is a flossy tycoon first and a wordsmith second at this point, so his handing in a high-power mixtape instead of a focused debut is to be expected, and with a little bottle service, enjoyed.

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trends/

Marion Sulmona

Denzel Keller

paying jobs in

the film industry If your main source of information is “People” magazine, you might think that everyone in Hollywood is filthy rich. But don’t pack for Tinseltown just yet: It turns out the median weekly earnings of non-supervisory film industry workers in 2008 was $627 -- only $19 more than the median weekly earnings of all other industries combined.

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hat’s not to say making movies isn’t lucrative. As “People” magazine makes clear, you can make money in the movie business. We’ve compiled a few job descriptions for your resume, so head over to the next page to read about the first of our 10 top-paying jobs in the film industry.

Producer One of the vaguest titles in Hollywood, a producer can be a writer, an investor, an idea man, a manager or all of the above. In film, the head producer is called the executive producer and is responsible for each and every phase of filmmaking: pre-production, production and post-production.

In pre-production, the producer reads scripts and hears ideas from writers, directors and agents. After choosing an idea, the producer has to raise money to fund the project. One route is to get the backing of a major movie studio. Another is to go independent and seek funding from individual investors.

Now the producer has to hire a screenwriter, a director, production staff, casting directors, art

directors, camera and lighting crews and editors.

It’s the producer’s job to make sure that the project stays within budget throughout production and post-production.

A good producer not only makes good films, but makes money for the investors. Like most jobs in the film industry, producers work their way up.

Statistics, the average annual salary for a film producer is $109,860. For the 15,430 producers and directors working in the Los Angeles area, that number jumps to $138,640

You might start as a production assistant or a script reader, learning how to spot a good idea and how to bring it to fruition. Or you can just leap right in and learn by trial and error, making small, low-budget films and working up to bigger ones.According to 2010 numbers from the Bureau of Labor

Remember, though, that producers seldom work on salary. Most take a cut of the film’s earnings at the domestic and foreign box office, DVD sales, streaming video contracts, and more. And those earnings move quickly into the millions.

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Directors Directors oversee the artistic vision of a film. Directors aren’t usually involved in the financial side of filmmaking, unless they’re wearing multiple hats as a producer-director.

In pre-production, the director works closely with the screenwriter and the producer to figure out the best way to visually represent the script and its themes. An experienced director will have a preferred list of cinematographers, art directors, cameramen, casting directors and even actors.

Even if the producer does much of the actual hiring and location scouting, it’s the director who has the final say. uring filming, the director coaches actors on the best way to read their lines and express emotions. He or she works with the cinematographer to make sure that the action is being faithfully and artistically recorded. And the director decides how many takes are necessary before the crew can move on to the next shot.

In post-production, the director sits with the editor to assemble the finished film. He or she works with a composer and music director to create a score and soundtrack that supports the story. And finally, after months or years of work, the director has a finished film.

To succeed as a director requires a persistence of vision and

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the ability to collaborate with an extensive team to bring that vision to life. They also need to have a deep understanding of film history and technique. Directors usually start with small, independent projects, sometimes as part of film school programs.

Editors Editors perform one of the most important -- but least glamorous -- jobs in Hollywood. It’s not uncommon for a director to shoot hundreds of hours of footage that needs to be whittled down to a tight, 90-minute film. A skilled editor will select the scenes and individual shots that best tell the story according to the director’s specific vision. ditors spend their days (and some late nights) in front of a console of computer monitors, shaving seconds off of shots and painstakingly editing audio. Larger film projects employ many different editors, each with a specific task (rough cut editor, dialogue audio editor, special effects audio editor and more). They don’t get paid that much for all those late nights, either: According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average annual salary in 2010 for a film editor was $74,200.

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Screenwriters There are several different ways for a screenwriter to get involved with a film project. One way is to write a full script on spec. The idea is to write the script first and then shop it around to agents or producers who might hire you or buy the script for later development.

Experienced screenwriters don’t even have to write the script.

Through their agent, they can get appointments with producers to pitch an idea for a script. The producer can then decide whether to just buy the idea or to hire the screenwriter to write a full script or a shorter treatment.

Some screenwriters are hired later in the process, after a producer or director has developed an idea. The screenwriter might be asked to write an adaptation of an existing work, like a novel or a play, or even punch up another screenwriter’s script by adding more jokes or more realistic dialogue.

Actors Actors form the link between the director’s vision, the screenwriter’s words and the audience. Being an actor requires an awareness and control of one’s movements and expressions that can take years of formal training. The most successful actors, however, look like they’re not acting at all. They inhabit the minds and bodies of their characters completely.

Unfortunately, most actors can’t earn a living through their acting work alone. The average member of the Screen Actors Guild (SAG) makes only $5,000 a year. A lot of actors take restaurant jobs that allow them to work at night and be available during the day for auditions.

Art Director The art director works with the director and the producers to

On large studio films, it’s not uncommon for several screenwriters to get credit for the same script.

Some screenwriters start as playwrights, journalists, novelists or other professional writers, while others go directly into writing for film and television. It’s a notoriously hard industry to break into, so it helps if you have connections.

The Bureau of Labor Statistics puts the average salary of a writer in the motion picture and video industry at $78,860, but it’s not uncommon for a top-tier screenwriter to receive hundreds of thousands, even millions of dollars for a single script.

sketch out a detailed vision of the sets, locations and surroundings for the film. Then it’s the art designer’s responsibility to bring that vision to the screen. The art director manages a huge team of draftsmen, set designers, set decorators, prop masters H mag 61

and set construction managers to create a fully realized world for the actors to inhabit.

Art directors have to be both effective managers and creative artists, bringing a fictional world to life within the constraints of the film’s budget. Because the job requires such highly specialized skills, there are only 1,870 art directors working in the entire film and video industry. But since quality art directors are in such high demand, they command a mean annual salary of $125,010 [source: Bureau of Labor Statistics].

Shooting a big-budget movie is like building an entire world from the ground up. Inside massive studio soundstages, teams of set builders, carpenters, riggers, plasterers, painters, and even plumbers work long hours to construct exteriors and interiors of buildings and homes [source: SkillSet.org]. They also build the stages and structures needed for special effects shots involving live actors. Overseeing this huge crew of unionized labor is the construction manager.

Construction managers report directly to the art director and work closely with the production designers and set designers to recreate the director’s vision with wood, nails, plaster and paint. The construction manager needs to have the technical prowess to get the job done and the management skills to keep a large team of workers on time and on budget.

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Vivamus id ipsum sit FUSCE VESTI IN QUIS

Cinematographer and DoP A film could have the most talented screenwriter in Hollywood, the most visionary director and the hottest actors, but what ultimately matters is the image on the screen. If all of that genius doesn’t get captured faithfully on film, then the project is a bust. That’s why the best filmmakers invest in a top-tier cinematographer.

The role of the cinematographer is to translate the director’s vision and the screenwriter’s story onto film or video.

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A cinematographer must have a keen artistic eye and a mastery of the technology and technique of camerawork. The cinematographer and director of photography (DP) are not always the same person. On bigger films, the cinematographer is solely responsible for shot composition and planning, while the DP manages the camera and lighting crews.

The DP is responsible for choosing the camera, lenses, booms and other equipment necessary to get the shot.

Multimedia Artists and Animators Take a quick look at the five highestgrossing movies of all time:

• Avatar (2009) - $2.8 billion

• Titanic (1997) - $1.8 billion

• Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Part 2 (2011) - $1.3 billion

• Transformers: Dark of the Moon (2011) - $1.1 billion

• The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King (2003) - $1.1 billion [source: BoxOfficeMojo] What do they have in common?

Starting with Titanic in 1997, the most successful films in the world are all shot in digitally enhanced, computer-animated worlds. Animation and digital effects studios like Disney-owned Pixar and George Lucas’ Industrial Light and Magic (ILM) hire teams of talented artists and animators to create fully realized characters and elaborate settings from scratch.

Artists and animators are employed throughout the pre-production and production process. Traditional artists and cartoonists are often hired to sketch out initial ideas for the look of different characters and settings. Sculptors are

also brought in to create the first 3D clay models of the characters, which can then be scanned into digital form for the animators. Computer animators are the virtual puppeteers who painstakingly bring a character’s emotions and dialogue to life frame by meticulous frame.

The annual mean salary for multimedia artists and animators in the film and video industry was $72,380 in 2010.

Talent Agent You’ll never see a talent agent on the cover of Vanity Fair or Forbes, but these behind-the-scenes dealmakers are some of the best-paid professionals in the film industry.

The role of a talent agent is all-encompassing. Agents find scripts for their actor or director clients to read. They shop around their clients’ headshots, film reels, and original scripts to studios and independent production companies across the country. They negotiate salaries and complicated profit-sharing deals with movie studios and distribution companies. They find extra promotional and sponsorship opportunities for their clients, whether it’s putting their face on a perfume campaign or shooting commercials for a Japanese soft drink. They make sure their clients are booked in the right hotel rooms, the right airplane flights and have all of their favorite food and music and clothes when they arrive.

Talent agents for the top actors, directors and producers in Hollywood are concentrated at a handful of agencies like CAA, United Artists and ICM [source: Gimbel]. Talent agents typically receive 10 percent of their client’s earnings under a specific contract for a film project. If your client pulls in tens or even hundreds of millions of dollars a year, then you’re sitting pretty.

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movies/

Antony Hollis

Raphael Uller

After Earth A

crash landing leaves teenager Kitai Raige (Jaden Smith) and his legendary father Cypher (Will Smith) stranded on Earth, 1,000 years after cataclysmic events forced humanity’s escape.

With Cypher critically injured, Kitai must embark on a perilous journey to signal for help, facing uncharted terrain, evolved animal species that now rule the planet, and an unstoppable alien creature that escaped during the crash. Father and son must learn to work together and trust one another if they want any chance of returning home.

One thousand years after cataclysmic events forced humanity’s escape from Earth, Nova Prime has become mankind’s new home. Legendary General Cypher Raige returns from an extended tour of duty to his estranged family, ready to be a father to his 13-year-old son, Kitai. When an asteroid storm damages Cypher and Kitai’s craft, they crash-land on a now unfamiliar and dangerous Earth. As his father lies dying in the cockpit, Kitai must trek across the hostile terrain to recover their rescue beacon.

His whole life, Kitai has wanted nothing more than to be a soldier like his father. Today, he gets his chance.

Release Date:May 31st, 2013 Starring: Will Smith Jaden Smith Zoë Kravitz Isabelle Fuhrman Kristofer Hivju 20 more cast & crew » Meter:100% Director:M. Night Shyamalan Writer:Gary Whitta, M. Night Shyamalan, Will Smith Studio:Columbia Pictures (Sony) Genre:Sci-Fi Rating: for sci-fi action violence and some disturbing images

dvd/

Manuel Oliveira

Todd Furitzer

what’s around 1

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fter the death of her husband, Dr. Cara Harding’s (Julianne Moore) faith in God has been shaken, but not her belief in science. In an attempt to open her up to accepting unexplainable psychiatric theories, her father introduces her to Adam, a patient with multiple personalities who takes on some of the physical characteristics of his other personalities.

Cara quickly discovers that Adam’s other personalities are murder victims and the more she finds out about him and his past, the closer she and her loved ones are to becoming murder victims themselves.

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As husband and wife Daniel and Lacey Barret witness an escalating series of disturbing events involving their family, their safe and peaceful home quickly unravels. When it becomes clear that the Barret family is being targeted by an unimaginably terrifying and deadly force, Daniel and Lacey take matters in their own hands to solve the mystery of what is after their family.

3

When FBI Agent John Nelson’s (Gooding Jr.) key informant, Miles, is abducted and shot, all that’s left is a severed finger. In order to find a new lead, Nelson travels to New York City to inform widowed magazine reporter Rebecca Scott (Vaugier) that her long dead husband, Miles, had only recently been murdered to see if she had heard from him in recent years. Perplexed, Scott joins Agent Nelson in the wealthy enclave of Australia’s Gold Coast to find out what really happened. The two soon discover Miles may have been part of an elaborate “Ponzi scheme” to bilk investors, and a vengeful billionaire, out of millions of dollars.

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private/

Jenny Ticalo

Shutterstock

Zoe Saldana “I am actually! I’m very proud to say I am a geek. But I’m kind of a cool geek.”

Z

oe Saldana’s career definitely got off to a good start. Coming from the amateur theater circuit, she landed a guest spot on Law & Order in 1999, and then headed straight for the big screen. Her first role, which was in Center Stage, allowed her to showcase her fiery personality and amazing dance skills, and caught the attention of casting directors. 2001’s Get Over It, a teen romantic comedy starring Kirsten Dunst, was her next movie.

She hopped from independent film to mainstream Hollywood (and returned to the indie scene), by appearing

alongside Nelly in the 2001 hip-hop flick Snipes, and then with Britney Spears in 2002’s Crossroads. She followed that up with a role in the marching band drama, Drumline.

In 2003, she made her biggest leap yet (albeit in a minor role), with Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl. In addition to a lead role in the musical Temptation, Zoe can add another blockbuster to her resume in 2004, with a role as an INS agent in Steven Spielberg’s The Terminal (starring Tom Hanks and Catherine Zeta-Jones). She moved into a quicker pace of films when she appeared in ‘08’s Vantage Point and The Skeptic, and her role as Uhura in J.J. Abrams’ Star Trek (2009) finally made her a household name. Her role in James Cameron’s sci-fi film Avatar, opposite Sam Worthington and Michelle Rodriguez, made her one of the biggest breakout stars of 2009/2010.

TITLE HERE

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WOM in Comb

reportage/

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MEN Conservatives often stand accused these days of standing outside the “reality-based community.� Yet liberals can be blinded by ideology, and nowhere is this more true than in the debate over women in combat.

Roger Brettain

bat

Mark Tolsner

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ver the past two decades, the United States has moved steadily to open all military roles to women. Last month, departing Secretary of Defense Leon Panetta removed the last barriers. Women may henceforward qualify for every duty, including combat infantry. The few - very few - public objections raised to this decision were met with derision rather than argument, well represented by this sneering item from the Daily Show.

Yet to deny the highly combat-relevant differences between the sexes is to deny reality as blatantly as ever done by any anti-evolutionist - and with potentially much more lethal consequence.

In 2007, Kingsley Browne gathered the evidence in a clear and concise book, Co-ed Combat: The New Evidence That Women Shouldn’t Fight the Nation’s Wars. The case presented by Browne won’t come as news to any military decision-maker. But it will and should jolt those who have relied on too credulous media sources for their information about what soldiers do and how they do it.

2) To the extent that strength continues to matter, some women can meet requirements and should be given a chance to qualify.

3) Other than physical strength, there are no militarily relevant differences between men and women.

The case for women in combat runs more or less as follows:

4) To exclude willing women from military service is unfair and unjust.

1) We have entered an era of push-button war in which purely physical strength has lost much if not all of its military relevance.

Browne demolishes these four claims, step by remorseless step, with studies and examples drawn from military experience.

1) Physical strength continues to matter in warfare. Soldiers still must hoist heavy packs and march for miles. Soldiers still must be prepared to function with reduced food and water. Soldiers must still sometimes fight and kill their enemies hand to hand. And even in other contexts where strength seems obsolete, the mischances of war can suddenly thrust soldiers into situations where strength determines who lives and who dies. Browne reminds us of the 2001 encounter between an American EP-3E surveillance aircraft and a Chinese “Finback” fighter jet. The EP-3E is a big plane, powered by four turboprop engines and carrying a crew of 24. The much faster Finback harassed the EP-3E with mock interceptions.

On his last approach, [the Chinese pilot] comes too close. He pitches up to maintain his slow speed, and one of the EP-3E’s propellers strikes his plane at the junction of the vertical stabilizer and the fuselage, sounding “like a monster chain saw hacking metal.” The propeller cuts the Finback in two.

The fighter’s nose flips up and strikes the nose of the American plane, knocking off the large fiberglass nose cone containing the weather radar. The immediate decompression of the cabin is deafening.

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The EP-3E immediately flips over into a nearly completely inverted dive. “This guy just fucking killed us,” [Captain Shane Osborn] thinks, as he is looking up at the sea below and observing that his plane is falling almost as fast as the wreckage of the Finback. The lumbering EP-3E, which is a converted Lockheed L-188 Electra passenger airliner, has never been rolled and never recovered from an inverted dive.

Using “every ounce of strength” in his muscular frame, Osborn struggles to bring the wings level. Gradually, he is able to gain airspeed and recover from the roll. The plane has fallen almost 8,000 feet from its original altitude of 22,500 feet in about thirty seconds and is still losing altitude.

(LOC 1352-1359) Osborn eventually brought the plane to an emergency landing on Hainan Island and succeeded in destroying the plane’s computers before Chinese forces arrived.

He won the Distinguished Flying Cross for saving his plane and crew.

[A]t the time of enlistment, a seventeen-year-old female is expected to do thirteen push-ups, compared to thirty-five for males, while for fortyone-year-olds, the numbers are six and twenty-four, respectively. A seventeen year-old girl is expected to run two miles in nineteen minutes, forty-two seconds or less, which is twelve seconds more than a forty-one year old man gets. A forty-one-year-old woman has to “run” two miles in twenty-four minus and six seconds, almost five minutes more than a man receives. Only in combat, it seems, will demands on the sexes be equal ….

attack in Iraq. Both won the Silver Star.

(LOC 399-403)

(LOC 1132-1139)

The military executes missions, and the generals and admirals understand that one of their most important missions from the point of view of their personal advancement - is to recruit sufficient numbers of women to please their political masters. The only way to achieve that mission is to operate very unequal

The sexes differ psychologically as well as physiologically. Women react to threat very differently from men. It seems painfully obvious to say this, but the sex hormones testerone and estrogen push the sexes to behave radically differently.

Many young men will risk death rather than be seen by their peers to flinch

standards. Browne again: The probability that a randomly selected man will have greater upper-body strength than a randomly selected woman is well over 95 percent.

from a fight. Women’s courage takes very different forms. Browne amasses a battery of stories of military women behaving in ways that, had they been men, would have brought accusations of dereliction of duty - or worse.

(LOC 432)

During the 1989 invasion of Panama,

The army’s standard fragmentation grenade has a blast radius of 15 meters. Infantrymen are required to demonstrate the ability to throw a grenade 35 meters; military women, only 25 meters. In practice, many military women cannot throw even that far. Browne tells the story of a Sergeant Leigh Ann Hester and squad leader Timothy Nein who came under

CBS News reported that two female truck drivers had tearfully refused to drive troops to the scene of fighting, prompting an Army investigation. Two days into the investigation - and several days before it was completed - the Army announced that the women had acted appropriately. According to Army spokesmen, the two women were “exhausted”

Hester gave her grenade to Nein because he “had the better arm.” She did, however, throw one about fifteen yards, which, depending upon cover, may be a little close for comfort …. Even if two men had been involved, of course, one might have given a grenade to a comrade with a better arm, but the soldier with the better arm in a mixed-sex pair will almost always be the man. If both members of the pair are women, their ability to throw a grenade where it is needed will be substantially limited.

As Shane Osborn’s experience reveals, strength is not irrelevant to modern aviation. Although it is not usually an issue in flying modern airplanes under ordinary circumstances, when things go wrong the situation can change dramatically. In the words of the principal investigator of a study of strength requirements of aviators, “If they lose hydraulics or an engine or two engines, it gets really tough to fly the plane.”

(LOC 1376) Strength matters too for a grounded helicopter pilot or a captured aircrew.

Browne notes that about 90% of the prisoners of war held by North Vietnam were downed pilots and aircrew.

The United States is planning its future air force on the assumption that future aircrews need not worry much about enemy fire. That’s a very dangerous assumption.

2) One might answer: “Fine. Strength matters. But why should gender matter?

Set strength requirements, run the tests.

If the women pass, they pass. If not, not.”

But that answer ignores the bureaucratic realities. The record shows that the military does not and will not enforce gender-neutral standards.

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we are equal, but men do all the hard and heavy work whether it’s combat or not.”

“The majority of females I know are not soldiers.

They are employed. Anything strenuous is avoided with a passion. I would hate to serve with them during combat! I would end up doing my job and 2/3 of theirs just to stay alive.”

(LOC 3644)

after driving under fire for nine hours …. According to officers of the infantry battalion whose soldiers were supposed to be transported, however, the women had not been driving under fire for nine hours. They had come under fire briefly in the first hour of the invasion and then spent eight hours waiting for their next mission, at one point having to be rousted from their barracks and made to stay with the trucks. ... [Quoting another author, Browne adds] “The men at the scene had no doubt but that the women were afraid, not tired.”

(LOC 1895-1902) Sex integration has tangled the military in double standards and collective denial. The Army, Browne reports, maintains an unofficial policy whereby women but not men - showers in the field every 72 hours. This practice is not written down, but it’s observed by the troops as another example of a demoralizing military culture of denial and lying. Browne quotes interviews of enlisted men by military sociologist Laura Miller: “Today all you hear in the Army is that 74 H mag

More cutting still, Browne repeats a bitter military joke that true equality will arrive - not when women receive Medals of Honor (since it will be suspected that the standards were bent in their favor) - but when women “can be subject to a court-martial for cowardly conduct.”

(LOC 1844) 3) The most fundamental differentiator between men and women of course is mutual sexual attraction. That fact has become an increasing source of weakness to US military units, and will weaken them still further when full combat integration is achieved. Where men and women are put together, sex will follow.

So will pregnancy - which is of course grounds for removing women from active duty. Sex is sometimes consensual. It is is sometimes coerced. And it is sometimes sold.

[P]rostitution by female personnel appears to be a widespread phenomenon, although the Pentagon’s reticence on the subject makes it difficult to ascertain just how widespread. I have heard from numerous sources claiming personal knowledge (not as customers, they all assure me) of prostitution rings in the Army, Navy, Air Force, and Marines. I have heard it from officers who were responsible for discipline and from

enlisted men who were aware of the women to go to.

(LOC 3507-3510) The most dangerous consequence of sexual attraction, however, is the corrosion of unit cohesion. A “band of brothers” pretty quickly degenerates into a snarling pack of primates when the brothers begin to compete amongst themselves for the sexual attention of a much smaller number of women.

4) It is on the point of “fairness” that Browne expresses himself most scathingly. It’s not the military’s job to be “fair.” It is the military’s job to win wars.

Our society values freedom of speech. It values the right to elect leaders. It values individual choice and market competition. All of those values are suspended in the military, sacrificed to the paramount need for military effectiveness. Yet on gender issues, the military seems to have decided that the desire of a relatively very small number of female officers to reach the highest levels of command trumps the necessities of national defense.

Ironically, the motive that most impels women into combat - the eagerness of some female officers to ascend to higher levels of leadership - is precisely the end that may be most unobtainable.

A battery of studies cited by Browne confirms the reluctance of men to accept female leadership when the shooting starts. This reluctance actually increases the more that male soldiers experience female leadership, for reasons hardwired into the male brain. Psychologists find that women’s leadership is accepted by men (and women!) to the extent that it is warm, nurturing, and participatory: in other words, maternal. It is least accepted when it is cold, challenging, and hierarchical: in other words, paternal or in other other words, military. Which means: Military women may be in a bind. The leadership role calls for an authoritarian style, but when women act accordingly, they tend to be negatively evaluated and therefore less effective.

(LOC 2656) Is the unwillingness of men to follow women into battle “unfair”? What does that question even mean?

[T]he measure of a leader lies not in the

leader’s behavior but in the behavior of his subordinates. If potential followers will not follow a leader for whatever reason, the leader cannot be effective.

Whether blame is assigned to the failed follower or the failed leader is immaterial. If the mission is not being accomplished, the unit is ineffective.

(LOC 2680)

disparaging the service of military women. Those who are serving now, and those who served in the past - not to mention those who will do so in the future deserve the thanks of a grateful nation.” (LOC 32) Too many draw an analogy between sex distinctions and the military’s discredited history of racial discrimination. Browne urges us to think of sex as a distinction more like age.

Browne stresses: “one may challenge the policy of sexual integration without

[W]hat would happen if the United States had fifteen thousand sixty-year-old men in Iraq and Afghanistan instead of fifteen thousand women. If it did, many of these older men would undoubtedly behave bravely. Would these stories be persuasive evidence that the military should allow sixty-year-olds to enlist?

Not at all. The relevant question is whether the sixty-year-old men are as effective in combat as twenty-year-old mean, and few would be (or be expected to be).

(LOC 3943)

Co-ed Combat depicts a country that seems to have made up its collective mind that it need not worry about ever again fighting a major war against a capable enemy - A country so confident in its margin of superiority that it can afford deliberately to weaken its own military performance for reasons of pure ideology. And this time it is the so-called progressive side that treats facts as unwelcome intruders.

Sara Lister, [the Clinton-era] Assistant Secretary of the Army for Manpower and Reserve Affairs, candidly stated that the Army does not publicly discuss strength and pregnancy issues because “those subjects quickly become fodder for conservatives seeking to limit women’s role in the Army.”

(LOC 3831)

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“Is the unwillingness of men to follow women into battle “unfair”? What does that question even mean?”

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in & out/

Martine Romanecki

Shutterstock

Mischa Gregory

Buster Fuller

Nina Dobrev

NINA & CO. Last month, a star in a white mini and strappy heels landed at the top of the Most Loved Looks list and we wondered why Kerry Washington was denied that spot. This week, another star in a white mini and strappy heels edged out Kerry Washington again.

In our weekly round-up of what we’re seeing sizzle (and fizzle) on the red carpet, we spotted some serious décolletage, bright colored shoes — and fashion suicide by sequins.

Up: Daring Necklines. Stars are definitely feeling sassy this week! How do we know? All the plunging necklines that have been hitting the red carpet. No one seems to be worried about veering dangerously close to a nip slip, and we’re impressed. Like Heather Graham (can you believe she is 43!) who stuns in this emerald Herve L Leroux gown, which she pairs with a major statement necklace. Also getting the low-cut memo: Lea Michele in her lingerie-inspired Roberto Cavalli, Sofia Vergara and Jamie Chung!

Whether you’re headed to the beach, sitting poolside, grilling with friends or just opening the windows and relaxing, chances are that you’re going to need some amazing music on hand.

So we enlisted N.Y.C.’s super-gorgeous, super-stylish and super-indemand DJ Kiss to put together a playlist that’s sure to be on repeat all weekend (below) — as well as to pick three celeb outfits perfect for whatever you’ve got planned.

If Madonna‘s daughter Lourdes debuting a green do had you wondering what other celeb kids are up to, hairwise — well, we’re here to answer your questions. As it turns out, celeb kid hairdressers have been very busy lately.

Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman‘s daughter Isabella showed off her new, super-short and teased blonde pixie on Instagram.

The 20-year-old has been playing with hair color lately, going red and then bright blonde, but this punky do is a brand-new look for Cruise, who until recently has kept her brown hair about chin length.

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First, watch the trailer for We’re the Millers. Next, marvel at the sight of America’s sweetheart playing a stripper named Rose.

Finally, ask yourself the same question you’ve been asking for years: How does she stay so fit?

Well, not without a lot of hard work, as our series with Jennifer Aniston’s yogi instructor Mandy Ingber makes clear.

And Aniston’s We’re the Millers director Rawson Marshall Thurber concurs. “I don’t think she ever worried about it. She got in great shape and worked incredibly hard for that sequence and it shows,” he says. “I think people are going to watch it with their jaw on the ground.”

But even though the star gets down to her skivvies to get her faux family out of a tight squeeze, Thurber promises we’re not looking at Aniston’s Elizabeth Berkley in Showgirls moment. “I would say on this side of Showgirls, the striptease falls in between Flashdance and a Carl’s Jr. commercial,” he says. “It’s handled with a wink and a smile.”

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editorial/

WHITE NEVER DIES Joseph Miles Joseph Miles | Writer

“No matter what you are looking for the new summer that is coming. Meanwhile if you really can’t take a decision and you still have a lot of doubts, simply choose what never turns you out of style, the always trendy white” 80 H mag

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“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.

Discover.”

Mark Twain Mark Twain

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KEY WEST White bikini by Parah, a classic even for the new 2013 summer. Accessories by Speedo

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“Rior ad et pra dolupta tionsequatur sapitius min rerit ullecustem quiam essimos mi, tessi con nam ex et rectori alitet liquat hici tem. Ipsaerum ullita consequaeste nescit, nullorrum endi offic tota pro officiis...”

PANTS AND BIKINI BY YAMAMAY

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books/

INFERNO

Mischa Gregory

Buster Fuller

Soon enough, there are more revelations--about this impressive doctor, about mysterious objects secreted on Langdon’s person, and about a larger conspiracy.

D

an Brown opens his fourth Robert Langdon thriller running--or rather lying down. The Harvard professor awakens in a hospital. In rapid sequence he discovers that he’s lost two days from his memory; that--astonishingly--he’s in Florence, Italy; and most shocking of all, that he’s in the hospital because persons unknown have tried to murder him. Most of these facts are given to him by a (naturally) pretty young doctor. Mere pages into the novel, an assassin is shooting up the hospital and Langdon and this doctor are on the run. (“She knew it was probably just the adrenaline, but she found herself strangely attracted to the American professor. In addition to his being handsome, he seemed to possess a sincerely good heart. In some distant, alternate life, Robert Langdon might even be someone she could be with.”)

Soon enough, there are more revelations--about this impressive doctor, about mysterious objects secreted on Langdon’s person, and about a larger conspiracy. Of course, the conspiracy can only be foiled by... a professor of symbology! Brown sums the opening up well in the following quote--and forgive me if the punctuation is not letter perfect, I’m transcribing from the audiobook without a printed copy for reference: “Dante’s Inferno, Langdon thought.

Inspiring foreboding pieces of art since 1330. Langdon’s course on Dante always included an entire section on the illustrious artwork inspired by The Inferno.

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In addition to Botticelli’s celebrated map of Hell, there was Rodin’s timeless sculpture of the three shades from The Gates of Hell, Stradanus’s illustration of pledges paddling through submerged bodies on the river Styx, William Blake’s lustful sinners swirling through an eternal tempest, Bouguereau’s strangely erotic vision of Dante and Virgil watching two nude men locked in battle, Bayros’s tortured souls huddling beneath a hail-like torrent of scalding pellets and droplets of fire, Salvador Dali’s eccentric series of watercolors and woodcuts, and Doré’s huge collection of black and white paintings depicting everything from the tunneled entrance to Hades to winged Satan himself.

Now it seemed that Dante’s poetic vision of Hell had not only influenced the most revered artists throughout history, it had also, apparently, inspired another individual, a twisted soul who had digitally altered Botticelli’s famous painting, adding ten letters, a plague doctor, and then signing it with an ominous phrase about seeing the truth through the eyes of death. This artist had then stored the image on a high-tech projector sheathed in a freakishly carved bone. Langdon couldn’t imagine who would have created such an artifact.

And yet, at the moment, this issue seemed secondary to a far more unnerving question: Why the Hell am I carrying it?”

As for the twisted soul above, well, it’s not a priest. Inferno’s plot doesn’t revolve around the Church this time.

The catalyst of the novel’s events is a mad scientist. Oh, he’s got a plan, and it’s positively Bond-villain-esque!

The fact that his actions make absolutely no sense in the world as we know it must simply be overlooked.

This sort of convoluted plotting comes with the madness, you see.

On to the substance of the book...

If Brown’s writing has irritated you in the past, you can most definitely expect more of the same. I think you can see how easily the language flows in the lengthy quote above.

The action commences from the outset, as if the characters were sprinting from a starter’s gun, and the pace keeps up, but a lot of it begins to feel like action for action’s sake. Momentum without meaning. Plot is Brown’s bread and butter, and while there is definitely some fun stuff in this book, a big part of me feels like it’s nothing we haven’t seen from this and other authors before--yet another trail of clues while being chased through Europe by those who would do them harm. It feels repetitive.

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shopping/

Elisa Fermi

Damien Volger

PLAYER 1

If you’re like me and you wish life was more like a video game then you’ve probably ingested random unmarked bottles that you found laying around hoping they were filled with magic potion that would restore your health. (Spoiler Alert: Nope!

They’re just filled with flat soda and cigarette butts and they’ll make you puke.) But if you’re smarter and less impulsive than me, then you probably look for more practical ways to make life seem more like a video game. Like this Couch Fighter wall decal. Created by the same artist that brought us the Pixel Fireplace Art this wall decal pits you and anyone else sitting on your couch against each other in mortal combat… or Mortal Kombat if that’s what you guys are gonna play. I call Raiden!

SPIN THE GLOBE

Because the world is my oyster decanter, here’s a Etched Glass Globe-Shaped Decanter. It’s for BOOZE. Jk, it’s for fancy drank. Sooo… spirits? First you fill the globe with fine brandy, port, or wine. Then, spin the globe to aerate!

Damn, that’s classy. And? AND the product site claims the thing can spin not just east to west, but also west to east. Whoa. What kind of sorcery is this? Whatever it is, it definitely makes this thing well worth the $50 price tag. Amirite? No, imnotrite. Imwrong.

JUST FOR YOU

Designer Kobi Levi brings us Witch-Craft, a series of Disney villain-inspired heels. Each pair is sculpted and hand-painted by Kobi himself.

He’s got a pair inspired by Maleficent from Sleeping Beauty, the Evil Queen from Snow White, and everyone’s favorite fat-ass evil octopus, Ursula from The Little Mermaid. Good job, Kobi! But seriously, why no Scar? Or Cruelle De Vil? Ooh, I would totally get down on some Captain Hook heels. Literally get down. As in, I would buy them, put them on my feet, stand up, try to walk, roll my ankle and get down. On the ground.

But still! The important part is that I would buy them. Right? Yeah, that’s the important part.

SHARK CUT

Odianis que pa volore optas volor solupta de volor at faccabo.

Ita pel esed unditinvel moles debis ex ellor rere, consequid qui re nus saeratur, odionse quoditium la cus ea voluptur as sita quias id es di conseque estrum aperi occum sitatinti doluptatum a Met untiat ut in et is venieni hiliae. Ore exces nate cum qui ut latur?

Xernate et deni comnis dusda vellorr ovidustis accum es et ationsequas imet verit aut lant quas re reperum quam assit repre sunt harum cusda esti sendebi taspedicat ullit, ommolorro di dolorep.

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SMELL LIKE A PIZZA

DARTH VADER Artist Tom Sachs built this Darth Vader beer fridge with a BONUS vodka pump. It’s basically just a Vader helment sitting on top of 2 mini fridges, stacked on top of a rolly side table with a cape wrapped around the whole mess. But I’m not complaining about the shoddy set-up, because: BEER. Also: VODKA. Sounds like a party!

Annnnd once again my invitation got lost in the mail. I blame the Vade!

Domino’s Brazil is introducing a collection of DVDs that look and smell like pizza. The discs are printed with a special ink that, when heated in your DVD player, turns the regular-ass looking label into a pizza-ass looking label. Plus, it releases the sweet aroma of pizza. Well you know what they say: if it looks like a pizza and smells like a pizza, I’m gonna eat first and ask questions later! Jk jk, I’m not gonna ask any questions, I’m just going to quietly excuse myself to the restroom to pick the shards of plastic out of my throat.

JELLYFISH

Hammacher Schlemmer is selling this aquarium filled with artificial jellyfish floating around all willy without a care in the world. You know why they don’t have a care in the world?

Because they’re not real. Real people jellyfish got real problems!

The machine has a silent motor that sends currents through the wa-wa (that’s slang for water FYI) which causes the jellies to dance. Dance jellies dance! There are also some multi colored LEDs in there that light up and color the otherwise trasclucent gelatinous zooplankton. That’s fancy talk for jellyfish BTW. You learn something new every day and that more than exceeded my quota. Too many letters at once!

SMALLEST PARK IN THE WORLD

Mill Ends is the smallest park in the whole wide world. It measures just a little teensy weensy 2-feet in diameter and is located in Portland, Oregon. Oh, Portland? You don’t say. In this video, Mark Ross of Portland’s Parks And Recreation Department tells us alllllllllllllllll about Mill Ends. How much information could possibly exist about a park so small only one person can stand in it at a time? More than I inititally thought. Like way way more. I was basically just expecting Mark to point at a picture and say “This… is the world’s smallest park.” So you can imagine my shock when I realized the video was 3 minutes long. That’s like, eternity in internet time!

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beauty/

Manuel Oliveira

Todd Furitzer

You Can’t Even Tell.

Can’t stand the goopy, white, smelly stuff and don’t wear it as often as you should as a result? The best sunscreens this season are actually masquerading as other beauty products. You’re going to love these multitasking gems

S heats up.

ure, sunscreen season is supposed to be every season, but let’s get real: We all start to really get conscious of putting on sunscreen when the weather

Flip through any women’s magazine on stands right now and you’ll see everyone is obsessed with finding the best sunscreen.

Right next to the floral fashion spreads there’s guaranteed to be some sort of sunscreen roundup. Most will have the newest releases, some will sort by skin type, and a few will feature the picks celebrities are buying.

If, like me, you see these stories and mumble your best “yay,” keep reading.

While I fully admit that, yes, this is also an obligatory sunscreen roundup, here’s the big difference: None of these products are just sunscreen. These beauty products feature SPF at high levels (most above 30 and broad-spectrum, two crucial sunscreen attributes) and they’re also just amazing products you’re going to love.

So before you stock up on Banana Boat this year, see if one of these multitasking sunscreens is primed to become your new fave.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios 50 Daily Anti-Aging Primer with Sunscreen, $39.99 Finding a sunscreen that won’t sweat off into white streaks is one thing, but nabbing one that also prevents the rest of your makeup from having a meltdown is like spotting a unicorn in the aisle of Sephora.

This product is that magical. Although it firmly holds blush and foundation in place until your evening face cleansing, it feels incredibly light and silky on your skin -literally an invisible layer of protection.

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.......Are Sunscreens Kate Somerville Body Glow Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 20, $45 Unless you’re Alessandra Ambrosio, you probably have some body insecurity when it comes to slipping into that bikini. Mine is my thighs. While I wish I could tie on a sarong and just be done with it, let’s be honest -- that usually just draws more attention to the problem area. Sure, I could take the time to slather on some tanner with a bit of shimmer bronzer and top it all off with an SPF spray. Or I could use Kate Summerville’s new sunscreen, which does all of the above.

Maybelline New York Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Balm, $3.99 The worst part of having SPF in your lip balm or gloss is that chalky white residue that appears a few hours in, making you look like a dehydrated desert wanderer. Not anymore. Yes, Fresh’s Sugar Lip Treatment is a favorite option around here, but this is an almost identical drugstore product for a fifth of the price. It even comes in several color tints so you can make sure you choose one that gives you a perfect-for-summer natural-looking flush.

Jart+ Premium Beauty Balm SPF 45, $39 We couldn’t have a multitasking sunscreen roundup and not include a BB Cream. After all, BB Creams are like multitasking sunscreens on steroids.

If you’re looking for a formula with the highest SPF production, look to the original BB Cream masters: Dr. Jart. They’ve got a formula with SPF 45, which is as high as you really need to go.

Remix Bronzing Mineral Veil Finishing Powder Broad Spectrum SPF 25, $20 I wouldn’t say I have really oily skin, but I’ll admit that by around 3 p.m., my forehead has a noticeable, er, gleam. If I’m spending the day on the beach, forget a “glow” -- my T-zone is downright blinding. So, instead of slathering on more sunscreen (which will only add more shine), I opt for a light dusting of this finishing power.

It blots out the extra glisten and applies a fresh layer of SPF. Can you say win-win?

While I fully admit that, yes, this is also an obligatory sunscreen roundup, here’s the big difference: None of these products are just sunscreen.

Dr.

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Even so, the protection SPF provides is critical, because UVBs (along with UVAs) play a role in the development of skin cancer.

Experts advise wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15.

Those who burn easily (blondes, redheads, and anyone with fair skin) should opt for SPF 30. (Research shows that SPFs above 30 do not significantly increase protection.)

7 Skin Cancer Mistakes Even Smart Women Make You wear sunscreen (well, most of the time), yet you may not be as safe as you think. What you don’t know about sun protection can burn you. Here, 10 sun safety mistakes -- and how to fix them.

1. Expensive Sunscreen Think you know everything there is to know about sun safety? So did we, until we started asking experts about the most common summer slipups and realized (oops!) that we make ‘em too. Here are the top 10 ways many skin-protection plans go wrong -- and everything else you need to know to stay safe under the sun.

The Mistake: You grab the priciest sunscreen, figuring it’s the best.

Cost doesn’t necessarily indicate quality, says Vincent DeLeo, MD, chairman of dermatology at St. Luke’s Roosevelt and Beth Israel Medical Centers in New York City.

Some expensive sunscreens don’t contain the key ingredients that can keep your skin safe, while some cheaper brands do.

Look for sunscreens with labels stating that they provide “broad-spectrum protection,” which means they contain ingredients that block both UVA and UVB rays. UVBs are the primary cause of burning; but UVAs, in addition to burning the skin, penetrate deeper, causing genetic damage in cells and suppressing the immune system. Some experts believe that this may cause skin cancer -- even in areas that are not directly exposed to the sun, says Dr. DeLeo. Unlike UVBs, UVA rays can pass through glass and damage your skin while you’re in the car or at your desk, so put on sunscreen if you’ll be inside but near a window.

Choose products with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or Parsol 1789 (avobenzone) -the best ingredients for UVA protection.

2. SPF Facts The Mistake: You think “sun protection factor” (SPF) protects against everything.

It doesn’t. The ingredients that provide SPF will shield you from only UVB rays.

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3. Bug Spray and Sunscreen The Mistake: You put on bug spray before sunscreen.

Sunscreen needs to bind with clean, dry skin in order to be effective, so anything you apply beforehand (including lotion or makeup) may reduce its effectiveness.

In addition, because sunscreen is highly absorptive, putting it on top of repellent may cause your skin to soak up more of the chemicals in the bug spray.

The best advice: Apply sunscreen first, wait 20 minutes, and then mist skin lightly with insect repellent.

Keep in mind that DEET-based sprays aren’t necessarily the best choice: When you apply these repellents on top of sunscreen, you can reduce the sunscreen’s effectiveness by as much as 30 percent, according to Xiaochen Gu, PhD, a professor of pharmacy at the University of Manitoba. For added protection against bugs, wear clothing that contains a builtin repellent, like Buzz Off, sold at L.L.Bean and Orvis.

4. All-Day Sun Protection The Mistake: You always wear sunscreen, so you can stay in the sun all day long.

Even the best sunscreens don’t offer complete protection. “Some rays still get through,” says Robin Ashinoff, MD, medical director at Hackensack University Medical Center in New Jersey.

Pro Tips If you’re going to be outside for more than a few hours, wear a wide-brimmed hat and seek as much shade as possible -particularly from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., when the sun’s rays are strongest.

Apply more sunscreen every two hours, since the active ingredients start to degrade after that, says Darrell Rigel, MD,

clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center.

After four hours, two-thirds of your protection will be gone. If you go for a swim or work up a sweat, you need to be even more vigilant about shielding your skin from the sun. The American Cancer Society advises reapplying sunscreen after swimming or perspiring heavily.

5. Sunscreen Application The Mistake: You apply sunscreen the minute you get outside.

Bad move. It takes at least 20 minutes for sunscreen to be absorbed into your skin and begin working; by then you can be on your way to a burn. Apply it at least 15 minutes before you leave home.

6. Eye Protection The Mistake: You hate the hassle of carrying around sunglasses.

UV rays can induce cataracts, says Marian Northington, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Alabama. According to the American Academy of Ophthalmology, African-Americans are the most susceptible, but everyone is at risk.

For maximum coverage, wear glasses that

wrap around to your temples, so the sun can’t sneak in from the sides. Your sunglasses should also have lenses that block both types of UV rays; the tag should include the phrase “100% UV protection.”

7. Tanning Booth Myths The Mistake: You pre-tan at a booth to prevent burning.

Don’t be misled by those ads that claim tanning-booth rays are safer than the sun -- they also expose you to UVA and UVB rays and can cause the same damage to your skin. Ironically, a base tan can boost the likelihood of a burn because you may be fooled into believing you can stay in the sun longer.

The bottom line: Whether you get it in a booth or at the beach, there is no such thing as a safe tan. “A suntan is the skin’s response to injury and DNA damage.

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tips/

Ron Tulsa

Brian Molan

to get a better sleeping The first step to improving the quality of your rest is finding out how much sleep you need.

How much sleep is enough?

H

ow you feel during your waking hours hinges greatly on how well you sleep. Similarly, the cure for sleep difficulties can often be found in your daily routine.

Your sleep schedule, bedtime habits, and day–to–day lifestyle choices can make an enormous difference to the quality of your nightly rest. The following tips will help you optimize your sleep so you can be productive, mentally sharp, emotionally balanced, and full of energy all day long.

The secret to getting good sleep every night Well-planned strategies are essential to deep, restorative sleep you can count on, night after night. By learning to avoid common enemies of sleep and trying out a variety of healthy sleep-promoting techniques, you can discover your per-

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sonal prescription to a good night’s rest.

The key, or secret, is to experiment.

What works for some might not work as well for others. It’s important to find the sleep strategies that work best for you.

The first step to improving the quality of your rest is finding out how much sleep you need. How much sleep is enough?

While sleep requirements vary slightly from person to person, most healthy adults need at least eight hours of sleep each night to function at their best.

Tip 1: Keep a regular sleep schedule Getting in sync with your body’s natural sleep–wake cycle—your circadian rhythm—is one of the most important strategies for achieving good sleep. If you keep a regular sleep schedule, going to bed and getting up at the same time each day, you will feel much more refreshed and energized than if you sleep the same number of hours at different

times. This holds true even if you alter your sleep schedule by only an hour or two. Consistency is vitally important.

Set a regular bedtime. Go to bed at the same time every night. Choose a time when you normally feel tired, so that you don’t toss and turn. Try not to break this routine on weekends when it may be tempting to stay up late. If you want to change your bedtime, help your body adjust by making the change in small daily increments, such as 15 minutes earlier or later each day.

Wake up at the same time every day. If you’re getting enough sleep, you should wake up naturally without an alarm.

If you need an alarm clock to wake up on time, you may need to set an earlier bedtime. As with your bedtime, try to maintain your regular wake–time even on weekends.

Nap to make up for lost sleep. If you need to make up for a few lost hours, opt for a daytime nap rather than sleeping late. This strategy allows you to pay off your sleep debt without disturbing your natural sleep–wake rhythm, which often backfires in insomnia and throws you off for days.

Be smart about napping. While taking a nap can be a great way to recharge, especially for older adults, it can make insomnia worse. If insomnia is a problem for you, consider eliminating napping. If you must nap, do it in the early afternoon, and limit it to thirty minutes.

Fight after–dinner drowsiness. If you find yourself getting sleepy way before your bedtime, get off the couch and do something mildly stimulating to avoid falling asleep, such as washing the dishes, calling a friend, or getting clothes ready for the next day. If you give in to

the drowsiness, you may wake up later in the night and have trouble getting back to sleep.

Discovering your optimal sleep schedule Find a period of time (a week or two should do) when you are free to experiment with different sleep and wake times. Go to bed at the same time every night and allow yourself to sleep until you wake up naturally. No alarm clocks!

If you’re sleep deprived, it may take a few weeks to fully recover. But as you go to bed and get up at the same time, you’ll eventually land on the natural sleep schedule that works best for you.

Tip 2: Naturally regulate your sleepwake cycle Melatonin is a naturally occurring hormone controlled by light exposure that helps regulate your sleep-wake cycle.

Melatonin production is controlled by light exposure. Your brain should secrete more in the evening, when it’s dark, to make you sleepy, and less during the day when it’s light and you want to stay awake and alert. However, many aspects of modern life can disrupt your body’s natural production of melatonin and with it your sleep-wake cycle.

Spending long days in an office away from natural light, for example, can impact your daytime wakefulness and make your brain sleepy. Then bright

lights at night—especially from hours spent in front of the TV or computer screen—can suppress your body’s production of melatonin and make it harder to sleep. However, there are ways for you to naturally regulate your sleep-wake cycle, boost your body’s production of melatonin, and keep your brain on a healthy schedule.

Increase light exposure during the day Remove your sunglasses in the morning and let light onto your face.

Spend more time outside during daylight. Try to take your work breaks outside in sunlight, exercise outside, or walk your dog during the day instead of at night.

Let as much light into your home/workspace as possible. Keep curtains and blinds open during the day, and try to move your desk closer to the window.

If necessary, use a light therapy box. A light therapy box can simulate sunshine and can be especially useful during short winter days when there’s limited daylight.

Boost melatonin production at night Turn off your television and computer.

Many people use the television to fall asleep or relax at the end of the day, and this is a mistake. Not only does the light suppress melatonin production, but television can actually stimulate the mind, rather than relaxing it. Try listening to music or audio books instead, or practicing relaxation exercises. If your favorite TV show is on late at night, record it for viewing earlier in the day.

Don’t read from a backlit device at night (such as an iPad). If you use a portable electronic device to read, use an eReader that is not backlit, i.e. one that requires an additional light source such as a bedside lamp.

Change your bright light bulbs. Avoid bright lights before bed, use low-wattage bulbs instead.

When it’s time to sleep, make sure the room is dark. The darker it is, the better you’ll sleep. Cover electrical displays, use heavy curtains or shades to block light from windows, or try a sleep mask to cover your eyes.

Use a flashlight to go to the bathroom at

night. If you wake up during the night to use the bathroom—as long as it’s safe to do so—keep the light to a minimum so it will be easier to go back to sleep.

Tip 3: Create a relaxing bedtime routine If you make a consistent effort to relax and unwind before bed, you will sleep easier and more deeply. A peaceful bedtime routine sends a powerful signal to your brain that it’s time to wind down and let go of the day’s stresses.

Make your bedroom more sleep friendly.

Keep noise down. If you can’t avoid or eliminate noise from barking dogs, loud neighbors, city traffic, or other people in your household, try masking it with a fan, recordings of soothing sounds, or white noise. You can buy a special sound machine or generate your own white noise by setting your radio between stations. Earplugs may also help.

Keep your room cool. The temperature of your bedroom also affects sleep. Most people sleep best in a slightly cool room (around 65° F or 18° C) with adequate ventilation. A bedroom that is too hot or too cold can interfere with quality sleep.

Make sure your bed is comfortable. You should have enough room to stretch and turn comfortably. If you often wake up with a sore back or an aching neck, you may need to invest in a new mattress or a try a different pillow. Experiment with different levels of mattress firmness, foam or egg crate toppers, and pillows that provide more or less support.

Reserve your bed for sleeping and sex If you associate your bed with events like work or errands, it will be harder to wind down at night. Use your bed only for sleep and sex. That way, when you go to bed, your body gets a powerful cue: it’s time to either nod off or be romantic.

Relaxing bedtime rituals to try Read a book or magazine by a soft light Take a warm bath Listen to soft music Do some easy stretches Wind down with a favorite hobby Listen to books on tape Make simple preparations for the next day Tip 4: Eat right and get regular exercise Your daytime eating and exercise habits play a role in how well you sleep. It’s particularly important to watch what you put in your body in the hours leading up H mag 101

to your bedtime.

Stay away from big meals at night. Try to make dinnertime earlier in the evening, and avoid heavy, rich foods within two hours of bed. Fatty foods take a lot of work for your stomach to digest and may keep you up. Also be cautious when it comes to spicy or acidic foods in the evening, as they can cause stomach trouble and heartburn.

Avoid alcohol before bed. Many people think that a nightcap before bed will help them sleep, but it’s counterintuitive.

While it may make you fall asleep faster, alcohol reduces your sleep quality, waking you up later in the night. To avoid this effect, stay away from alcohol in the hours before bed.

Cut down on caffeine.

You might be surprised to know that caffeine can cause sleep problems up to ten to twelve hours after drinking it!

Consider eliminating caffeine after lunch or cutting back your overall intake.

Avoid drinking too many liquids in the evening. Drinking lots of water, juice, tea, or other fluids may result in frequent bathroom trips throughout the night. Caffeinated drinks, which act as diuretics, only make things worse.

Quit smoking. Smoking causes sleep troubles in numerous ways. Nicotine is a stimulant, which disrupts sleep, plus smokers experience nicotine withdrawal as the night progresses, making it hard to sleep.

If you’re hungry at bedtime For some people, a light snack before bed can help promote sleep. When you pair tryptophan–containing foods with carbohydrates, it may help calm the brain

and allow you to sleep better. For others, eating before bed can lead to indigestion and make sleeping more difficult.

Experiment with your food habits to determine your optimum evening meals and snacks.

If you need a bedtime snack, try: Half a turkey sandwich A small bowl of whole–grain, low–sugar cereal Granola with low–fat milk or yogurt A banana You’ll also sleep more deeply if you exer-

cise regularly. You don’t have to be a star athlete to reap the benefits—as little as 20 to 30 minutes of daily activity helps.

And you don’t need to do all 30 minutes in one session. You can break it up into five minutes here, 10 minutes there, and still get the benefits. Try a brisk walk, a bicycle ride, or even gardening or housework.

Some people prefer to schedule exercise in the morning or early afternoon as exercising too late in the day can stimulate the body, raising its temperature. Even if you prefer not to exercise vigorously at night, don’t feel glued to the couch, though. Relaxing exercises such as yoga or gentle stretching can help promote sleep.

Tip 5: Get anxiety and stress in check Do you find yourself unable to sleep or waking up night after night? Residual stress, worry, and anger from your day can make it very difficult to sleep well. When you wake up or can’t get to sleep,

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take note of what seems to be the recurring theme. That will help you figure out what you need to do to get your stress and anger under control during the day.

If you can’t stop yourself from worrying, especially about things outside your control, you need to learn how to manage your thoughts. For example, you can learn to evaluate your worries to see if they’re truly realistic and replace irrational fears with more productive thoughts. Even counting sheep is more productive than worrying at bedtime.

If the stress of managing work, family, or school is keeping you awake, you may need help with stress management. By learning how to manage your time effectively, handle stress in a productive way, and maintain a calm, positive outlook, you’ll be able to sleep better at night.

Relaxation techniques for better sleep Relaxation is beneficial for everyone, but especially for those struggling with sleep.

Practicing relaxation techniques before bed is a great way to wind down, calm the mind, and prepare for sleep.

Some simple relaxation techniques include: Deep breathing. Close your eyes, and try taking deep, slow breaths, making each breath even deeper than the last.

Progressive muscle relaxation. Starting with your toes, tense all the muscles as tightly as you can, then completely relax.

Work your way up from your feet to the top of your head.

Visualizing a peaceful, restful place.

Close your eyes and imagine a place or activity that is calming and peaceful for you. Concentrate on how relaxed this place or activity makes you feel.

Tip 6: Ways to get back to sleep It’s normal to wake briefly during the night. In fact, a good sleeper won’t even remember it. But if you’re waking up during the night and having trouble falling back asleep, the following tips may help.

Stay out of your head. The key to getting back to sleep is continuing to cue your body for sleep, so remain in bed in a relaxed position. Hard as it may be, try not to stress over the fact that you’re awake or your inability to fall asleep again, because that very stress and anxiety encourages your body to stay awake. A good way to stay out of your head is to focus on the feelings and sensations in your body.

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how/

Eloise Baker

Travis O’Brien

Add Meaning to Your LIFE Human nature. Consider how you feel about the positive and negative aspects of human nature, and what you believe about human equality or inequality.

When something has meaning, it has a purpose; it is significant. Likewise, a life that has meaning feels purposeful and significant. Scientific studies have shown that those who feel their lives are meaningless are likely to suffer from depression and selfdestructive tendencies, while those who feel their lives are meaningful are more likely to have a sense of joy and satisfaction with life. Adding meaning to life is not an exact science, but it is possible to develop a meaningful life for yourself if you are willing to put some time and consideration into the process. Follow these steps to add meaning to your life.

1 - Contemplate your beliefs. Examining the nature of reality is a foundation for discovering your purpose in life, and only when you find a purpose will you feel a deeper meaning of life. Consider the following: //Higher power. Regardless of your religion (or lack thereof ), a meaningful life involves understanding your role in something bigger, whether it be Christianity, mother nature or the universe. //Human nature. Consider how you feel about the positive and negative

aspects of human nature, and what you believe about human equality or inequality. For example, you may believe that human beings are all basically the same, and that they all deserve love and understanding, or you may believe that human worth is individualistic, based on characteristics that you identify as valuable.

2 - Assess your values. Decide what is important to you, in relation to the world as you believe it to be. Things like altruism, honesty, leadership, determination, love, conformity, professionalism, entertainment and wealth are just several varied examples of values that a person may subscribe to.

3 - Identify your purpose. Take into account your beliefs and values, then decide how you may apply those to your lifestyle in a productive (purposeful) way. Your purpose is multidimensional, encompassing the many different aspects of your belief and value systems. For example, you may believe in a God and that all humans are inherently equal, and you may value education and sacrifice.

Therefore, your purpose may be to teach others, spread your religion, be a student, advocate for human rights and contribute to helping the underprivileged.

4 - Consider the 6 dimensions of wellness and how you might develop each in a way that will increase your feeling of purpose in life. Choose activities from each category that align with your purpose for a well-rounded

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approach to improving your life’s meaning. Note that these categories overlap, and that it is possible to develop more than 1 dimension with the same activity. //Social wellness involves how you interact with people and how you relate to your community. Activities that fit into social wellness include developing new relationships and volunteering.

Spiritual wellness has to do with developing your sense of a higher power and defining your moral values. In order to find more meaning in life through spiritual wellness, you may opt to attend church, take a philosophy class or learn yoga.

Intellectual wellness involves expanding your knowledge, understanding and mental acuity. Any experience that requires you to learn something new or broaden your perspective, such as working towards a goal or going to school, will help develop your intellectual wellness.

Environmental wellness has to do with how you relate to your surroundings. To add to your purpose in life through environmental wellness, participate in activities like recycling, hiking and gardening.

Physical wellness encompasses your physical health and fitness. Develop greater physical wellness by exercising and eating healthy foods.

Emotional wellness applies to your self esteem and how you handle life’s stressors. To improve your emotional wellness, get further in touch with your inner self through things like meditation and counseling.

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hteen/

Melanie Rosberg

Yasmine Glow

ELLEn

PAGE Although Ellen Page is poised to hit a new level of stardom via Inception -- we still know her best for her Oscar-nominated performance as the pregnant teen with an attitude in Juno.

“Your heart becomes more alive, but there’s also that kind of analytical part of you that starts connecting with it. It made me just completely fall in love., on acting.”

What’s your favourite song ever?

Smells Like Teen Spirit - Nirvana What’s your color?

Black

m o M My

Your everyday phone call?

Do you feel sexy?

I feel like a tom-boy

Do you like fashion?

I love it but I don’t really think I can be into it.

What’s your car?

Mercedes

What’s your fav. place?

My house.

Do you cook?

Not really Are you

?

E V O L in

Always

Tell me something you’d chenge in you?

Well, I’d love legs like Cameron Diaz...

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“Judging people you don’t know for things you don’t understand is just really stupid.”

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lifestyle/

Jonathan Tatler

Eli Tucson

Luxury Industry Predictions In the fashion and luxury industries, a move toward more meaningful and distinct brand communications will be very important in the coming year.

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uxury Society spoke with a panel of industry experts to find out what’s in store for luxury in the coming twelve months.

2012 was another dynamic year for the luxury industry. China officially overtook the United States as the world’s biggest consumer nation of luxury goods for the very first time. Wealthy investors in Asia and the Middle East snapped up European luxury brands, as European conglomerates intensified acquisition of suppliers and reinvigorated dormant heritage brands.

India added a local sourcing clause to foreign direct investment in retail, making it difficult for luxury brands to independently enter the local market.

In Argentina, luxury goods brands led a mass exodus from retail as duties, taxes and customs delays made it impossible for many to receive stock.

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Instead many luxury fashion houses concentrated on entry into ‘hard luxury’ categories, increasing their offering of branded fine jewellery and timepieces.

This is when they took a break from legal battles surrounding counterfeit, copyright and everything in between.

But what does all this mean for luxury in 2013? How will the Chinese consumer change the game? How will the price of precious metals impact timepieces and jewellery? Where is the digital world headed next? We spoke with a panel of industry experts to gauge their predictions for the coming twelve months.

A Men’s Market In China Male consumers will continue to drive luxury growth in China in 2013 explains Avery Booker of Jing Daily The Chinese male shopper has long been the backbone of China’s luxury market, as government officials and business-

people alike have continued to propel the controversial tradition of high-end gift giving. But while we anticipate male consumers to maintain their perennial demand for watches and automobiles this year (regardless of recent anti-corruption pushes), a shift is clearly afoot.

Recent studies have repeatedly indicated that the rising number of upper-middle-class male shoppers – with annual salaries averaging around $81,800 – is showing a greater interest in more individual luxury segments such as apparel, leather-goods, and personal accessories.

This is definitely a trend that brands should keep in mind when planning for the year ahead. “ Gift giving is no longer the singular driver of male luxury purchases ” Gift giving is no longer the singular driver of male luxury purchases, as Coach China president & CEO Jonathan Seliger recently observed. Said Seliger, “Chinese men have become even more enthusiastic about following fashion trends and have started attaching more importance to their outward appearance through the use of ornaments and personal decoration.”

These personal “ornaments” and “decor” include watches, neckties, bags, suitcases, eyeglasses, jewellery and even skincare products. What makes this increasingly individualistic male consumer segment an important one, however, is their consumer psychology.

Contrary to female shoppers who, according to LS:N Global Research, exhibit more “emotional spending habits and are more vulnerable to the impact of an economic crisis,” male shoppers tend to

be a “more rational and stable performance consumer market,” which is good news for brands that have developed new strategies to cater to their male shoppers.

An Upwardly Mobile Digital World In 2013 consumers will become accustomed to accessing content anywhere, at anytime, according to David Sadigh of Digital Luxury Group.

Mobile consumption is growing at a very fast pace in both mature markets such as Europe and the US, but also in emerging markets like China and Brazil. It’s probably the first time since we entered into the digital era that a technology (mobile) is gaining such momentum, at such a huge scale.

To illustrate this we need not look farther than Facebook, which is receiving more than 500 million monthly users from mobile, more than 7 times the size of the entire French population. And this is just the beginning. 2013 will see a major increase in mobile penetration for several reasons. Smartphone and tablet penetration will continue to grow globally, but even stronger in emerging countries.

Also, the bandwidth on mobile will significantly increase – with many countries providing 4G/LTE access – and prices may also start to decrease because of the high level of competition. But most of all, people will get used to having access to the content they want at any time, from nearly anywhere. “ Facebook is receiving more than 500 million monthly users from mobile ” For brands, this represents a tremendous opportunity for creating unique brand experiences, which go far beyond having an app. In fact, we see “app fatigue” with brands offering apps that consumers seem to not really see the benefit of. And when consumers do download the app, our numbers show that they do not use them as often as brands would like.

What we envision is that luxury brands will have to be more pragmatic in the way they craft their mobile strategies, and make sure that they provide fast and customer-friendly content, allowing customers easy access to relevant information (for example, the opening hours of a boutique) without having to dig through a mobile site or install an app.

Last – but not least – mobile commerce.

The numbers show that for urban transactional shoppers, valuing convenience and speed above anything else, mobile will become an essential channel in 2013.

In a market like the US, trusted retailers with proven mobile platforms and strategies will be ideally positioned to take advantage from this growth.

A Time for Integration in Fashion Fashion brands will need to further integrate customer service with enriched digital storytelling explains Elizabeth Canon of Fashion’s Collective.

In the fashion and luxury industries, a move toward more meaningful and distinct brand communications will be very important in the coming year. Many brands, even the most iconic, have lost a sense of identity. It’s not uncommon for a luxury fashion brand to think of itself as sophisticated, classic and chic. But that could apply to a multitude of brands.

As new brands emerge, and national brands begin to expand out globally (like we’re starting to see in China), customers become more savvy about their purchases, and identifying with what a brand stands for will become an even more important part of the decision making process.

At Fashion’s Collective, we call this a move toward storytelling, but it really means owning a point of distinction and finding novel, interesting ways to convey that story appropriately for each platform. “ Many fashion brands, even the most iconic, have lost a sense of identity ” I think the difference going forward is that storytelling will begin to go handin-hand with customer service. No one in luxury really likes to discuss customer

service because the assumption is always that, as a luxury brand, there is an innate high degree of service. But now customers create on-demand experiences with brands that span more platforms than ever, and the result is that gaps in customer service are exposed.

Someone might see a product in a magazine and type it into a search engine, only to get no search results. That product might not yet be added to the brand’s ecommerce website, or it might not be merchandised properly. In-store the sales staff may not be aware of the editorial coverage or the item in question. It’s also possible that product was never even produced.

All of these present pain points for customers. Just as storytelling now applies to all platforms from storefront to pinboard, internal alignment across departments is necessary to provide good customer service. As other industries deliver strong customer service in this way, people will expect that luxury brands go above and beyond.

Precious to Prevail in Fine Jewellery High-end jewellery collections will continue to comprise the most precious of stones believes Maria Doulton of The Jewellery Editor.

The high price of gold and other precious metals has made its mark on mid-price range jewellery. Solutions to making more with less have led to a flourishing of light and airy jewels, often employing open-work techniques and light settings, such as Chopard’s Imperiale collection, or exploring alternative materials such as exotic woods or gold-plate, of which H mag 109

we will see more in the new year.

I suspect there will be a continued interest in coloured precious gem-stones, as witnessed with Tiffany & Co’s 175th anniversary collection that focused on the stones the house has brought to the world, including morganite, tanzanite, kunzite and tsavorite. Diamonds will always be popular but with a strong element of design or a mix of stones.

Likewise the appetite for coloured diamonds remains high with record prices achieved at auction for coloured stones.

At Bonhams in Hong Kong in November 2012, a 43.16-carat Ceylon sapphire ring

by Van Cleef & Arpels achieved a new high of $1.5 million (est. $650,000) or US$36,000 per carat. There was also the successful tender of Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine pink diamond auction in London this winter. “ High-end jewellery collections appear to grow in strength and value as the world economy shrinks ”.

High-end jewellery collections appear to grow in strength and value as the world economy shrinks. The proliferation of high value jewels on display at the Biennale des Antiquaires this autumn is proof that this is a growing segment of the jewellery market.

With new exhibitors such as Bulgari and Wallace Chan at the Biennale, this is an area that still has potential to attract more jewellers as well as clients. In both watches and jewellery, a strong emphasis on craftsmanship is transmitted by virtually ever brand and where relevant, heritage is a key message in the marketing mix.

Enamel work, intricate carving and exquisite setting skills are areas that can be highlighted to distinguish a brand as the jewellery world becomes ever more branded and the luxury groups are looking to make their mark in this territory.

Bigger is Better for Superyachts.

Superyachts will get bigger and bigger, and 2013 will encourage new cruising patterns, explains Belinda Liversedge of The Superyacht Group.

The niche nature of custom made superyachts resists straightforward trend analysis. The beauty of superyachts is that each creation is unique. Yet, craft designers speaking at the SuperyachtDesign summit in March, agreed we are heading in the direction of bigger yachts.

Two 100m plus yachts are scheduled for delivery in 2013, including Lurssen’s Project Azam, the180m yacht which will beat Abramovich’s superyacht Eclipse,162.5m 110 H mag

as the world’s longest. “My feeling is that there are more of the monster projects being ordered this year,” said Ellie Brade, who compiles the Superyacht Report’s Global Order Book each year.

“Nobiskrug, Oceanco, Lürssen, Fincantieri, even Feadship for the first time, are all building above 100m”. Interiors wise, the gold-encrusted, ostentatious decor of yesteryear is becoming less common.

The development has been driven less by designer preference than by maturing tastes of superyacht owners. “ Two 100m plus yachts are scheduled for delivery in 2013 ” In terms of where the yachts are choosing to berth and cruise, it is no surprise that yachts are staying in typical spots: France, Spain, Italy, Greece, Croatia and Turkey. But factors including changes in taxation and a logjam in France’s marinas could encourage new cruising patterns from 2013.

Superyachts are not like real estate, they can move. So, we saw this summer that Italy’s IVA tax on charter fees prompted yachts to change their itinerary to avoid tax and something similar could happen in France when VAT is added to charter from as soon as summer 2013.

New superyacht marinas in the eastern med tailored to owners and superyachts needs – refit facilties, larger berths and amazing varieties of services from infinity pools to trendy beach clubs – could also see them tempted away from marinas in the western med, many of which have far more out-dated services.

Further Reading: The Superyacht Group A Woman’s World in Watchmaking Watchmakers will continue to develop mechanical pieces for women and focus on their most iconic products, according to Maria Doulton of The Jewellery Editor.

Don’t expect this to be a year of astounding mechanical innovation or eye-popping designs but a follow-through of last year’s strategy of consolidating strong products. Case in point is last year’s (2012) launch of the Cartier Tank Anglaise, a variant on a well-tested theme to mark nothing less than the Tank’s 100th anniversary.

When models are launched, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recently arrived round watch for women, the Rendez-vous, they are carefully considered as opposed to opening brand new markets for the brand. In this case, the Rendez-vous filled an obvious gap in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s offering, dominated by men’s watches and the iconic rectangular Reverso for

women.

Expect designs to be refinements of past winners, with great attention to materials – think carbon coatings, silicon components and new high-tech alloys – and an emphasis on craftsmanship. “ I am hard pressed to think of a luxury brand that doesn’t offer an automatic women’s watch ” The role of ‘complications’, particularly in men’s watches, is subtly shifting not so much to dazzle with amazing feats of mechanics, but to create practical and useful watches such as those incorporating alarms, dual times or chronographs and opening up this world to a wider audience.

The mechanical women’s watch is here to stay, and I am hard pressed to think of a luxury brand that doesn’t offer an automatic women’s watches, a complete reversal of the situation only ten years ago. Expect to see more mechanically sophisticated watches for women.

A continued emphasis on craftsmanship is on the cards, to the extent that in a bid to differentiate a brand, arcane skills are dusted off and brought to the glistening showcases of watch shops around the world. Last year, straw marquetry dials had a revival, so anyone’s guess what long-lost craft will be in vogue this year.

Increased Consolidation in Wealth Management Both wealth managers and luxury brands will continue to focus on core assets, explains Nicola Ko of Ledbury Research.

The most significant trend we expect is further global consolidation in 2013. This year has seen global wealth managers and luxury brands consolidating their operations, and we expect this trend to intensify in the coming year.

The focus on markets where a competitive advantage is held is manifest in the recent disposals of non-core assets by a number of wealth managers. One such example is Merrill Lynch selling its nonUS business to Julius Baer. This is due to a perfect storm of rising regulatory compliance costs, pressure to strengthen balance sheets and economic uncertainty.

In a similar vein, the increasing focus by universal banks on their wealth management units – as seen with recent restructuring at UBS and Credit Suisse – is likely to increase as banks search for reliable income streams and less capital intensive operations.

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travel/

William Johnsonn

Joyce Cugaris

THE

COROMANDEL

Aboam cusam ut pratem dit est, utempor emporatus, officabor maio tem que nam, nam fugiae la poreri bearum quosam, con conseque molecta nimus nobis aliberio es am ipsaeped etur? Ernatus.

Rum liquodit fugia dolupta sincit que quatia pro...

P

erhaps it’s the geography of The Coromandel that inspires a slower pace of life. The peninsula juts out into the Pacific Ocean, as if trying to seek isolation and break away from the mainland, seemingly seeking separation.

As is typical with islands and peninsulas, a more individualistic way of life and self-sufficient identity is pervasive. The people of Coromandel know they live in one of the most beautiful and serene parts of New Zealand, and they’re all too happy to not be a part of the cogs that turn nearby Auckland, though they are healthily reliant on its regular output of office workers, finance execs and other high-flyers spending long weekends away on their patch. Kiwis from all over the country flock to the Coromandel over longer holiday periods, such as Christmas, to lap 112 H mag

up the warmer temperatures, the beach life, and enjoy the archetypal barbecue Christmas dinner. ou will literally feel yourself slow down as you enter the Coromandel. The local tourism board even claims it is “good for your soul”. A few days or weeks here and you will find yourself agreeing. If you have the luxury of time to explore the Coromandel, your experience will be tenfold.

There is no need to rush to do anything – these pristine rainforests and golden beaches aren’t going anywhere. But if you only have a couple of days, it’s still possible to dip your toes into the Coromandel way of life and come away feeling restored. Here are our suggested highlights if you only have a few days.

Y

hot geothermal water.

Whitianga Another option is to base yourself in Whitianga, the main settlement and heart of the Mercury Bay area, and take a boat to Cathedral Cove. The glass bottom boat is a two hour cruise and gives you a clear, but dry, viewing window under the ocean. Fur seals are spotted from May to October, penguins all year round, and visiting dolphins and orcas will occasionally stop by to say hello. Other

nautical options let you pack it all in one day, taking you on a tour of the Mercury Bay coastline stopping at Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove, Hahei Beach and many more. side from its busy wharf and boat cruises, Whitianga is a charming town with plenty to offer in its own right.

Among the attractions are beautiful art galleries, the Mercury Bay Museum, a winery and ‘The Lost Spring’

A

Hot Water Beach Located between Tairua and Whitianga, is possibly one of the most famous parts of the Coromandel. A river of hot water burrows under the beach making it a subterranean natural spring waiting to be discovered - which it is, every day, at low tide by eager explorers.

If you arrive two hours either side of low tide you should find the water still piping hot. What is more restorative than a hot bath? Well, not much. So dig deep, dig in, and relax. It’s magical enough to keep the kids entertained while the adults soak up the therapeutic benefits of the H mag 113

You will literally feel yourself slow down as you enter the Coromandel. The local tourism board even claims it is “good for your soul�.

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– geothermal hot pools and spa, perfect for testing out that “good for your soul” theory Coromandel Town Those looking for a historical context will be delighted with Coromandel town. A key site in the gold rush of the 1860s, the town still bears the hallmarks of its pioneering days with a museum in the School of Mines, old Court House, stamper battery, and more. There is also a thriving artistic community in the town, with a plethora of studios and galleries exhibiting hand-crafted goods, weavings, iron work, oil paintings and sculptures to name but a few of the mediums.

T

he stand-out attraction here, and perhaps of the whole peninsula, is the Driving Creek Railway – a mountainous climb through replanted kauri forest.

The railway was the brainchild of local potter and conservationist Barry Brickell who wanted to find a way to retrieve the natural clay and wood of the area for art, but also to restore the forest to its former glory after near catastrophic over-foresting by over-zealous British colonists.

This labour of love has since spawned a tourist attraction that you simply won’t find elsewhere in New Zealand. A feat of civil engineering and insightful ingenuity, the viaducts, tunnels and viewing platforms make the railway a scenic and joyful experience.

After a busy activity-packed day of history, art galleries and railway you might want to head for something to eat and drink at the local historic Pepper Tree Restaurant & Bar in Coromandel town. The award-winning dining on offer here will be a welcome tasty treat for keen gastronomes.

The beauty of the Coromandel, or rather, one of the many beauties of the Coromandel, is its seemingly limitless scope for exploration and relaxation. If you only make it to this region once in your life, you won’t forget it easily, and if you get the chance, you can guarantee you will come back to see more.

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tech/

Lorraine Buster

Helen Timoira

Google Glass apps show off what headset can really do A raft of new apps and hacks for Google’s forthcoming device show us life beyond the smartphone

R

eady to wear a computer on your face? Google thinks you are. The company’s Glass headset seeks to bring wearable computing into the mainstream – but what will the average person do with it? There are privacy fears, but a sneak peek at some of the first Glass apps gives a glimpse of how useful the device might be.

Glass debuted in May last year at Google’s annual developer conference, Google I/O, but it was only last month that designers and developers finally got their hands on the device. At the latest I/O, held in San Francisco last week, Google showed developers how to play around with Glass to come up with exciting new uses.

Glass consists of a fingertip-sized transparent prism display that sits at the top right corner of a user’s field of vision. This prism is attached to a body housing a camera, eye movement sensors, a touch-sensitive sidebar and a number of other sensors, including an accelerometer, gyroscope and compass. It has Wi-Fi and can be paired with a smartphone via Bluetooth to access things like GPS or data over a 3G or 4G connection.

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So far, the apps that come with Glass simply adapt familiar online activities, like emailing or taking pictures with a voice command. Other official apps come from third parties, like news headlines from The New York Times.

But as developers who have tried the device are discovering, Glass is about more than just adapting familiar activities to a new interface. Nelson Blaha, a web developer in Dallas, Texas, has had Glass for about three weeks now. He says it is perfect for subtly adding context to the background of one’s normal activities.

Blaha’s BirdsForGlass app displays pictures of and information about birds that have been sighted near a Glass-wearer’s location. It draws on Cornell University’s eBird birdwatching database, which collects sightings from all over the US. “If you had to use a birdwatching book, you’d have to go through all the species that may not be in the area at the time,” says Blaha. “But something like this uses your location to keep track of what birds are likely to be around you at that moment.” Users are also able to look up a bird’s entry without taking their eyes off the bird itself – impossible with a book or smartphone.

Other Glass apps adapt and enhance familiar smartphone tasks. For example, a program called Glassnost, created by Boston-based developer Erik Johnson, lets users share images online, then receive feedback from their friends directly in the Glass display. This kind of interaction is more cumbersome on a phone, says John-

“You think your phone is always with you? Try putting on a pair of glasses that are connected to the internet,” son. With Glass, the camera is always out and ready, and the Glassnost app shows comments as they come in.

Johnson thinks this might change the way we use photo-sharing services. “Say you’re at a store and you want friends to help you decide whether or not to buy something, you can push photos to the web and get feedback very quickly,” he says.

Another app, called ThroughGlass, developed by Los Angeles-based engineers Andrew Skotzko and Drew Baumann brings this kind of “always on” social networking to Facebook users. It allows users to take photos and videos with Glass, upload them to Facebook and update their status using voice recognition, as well as “like” their friends’ posts.

“You think your phone is always with you? Try putting on a pair of glasses that are connected to the internet,” says Skotzko.

Glass also makes activities that you would not want to do with a smartphone more desirable, such as facial recognition. It would be embarrassing to hold up your smartphone camera to try to identify someone who you’re not sure whether you’ve met before. But an app for doctors called MedRefGlass, developed by Lance Nanek in New York is more subtle. It takes a photo, then uploads it to an online analysis and recognition service called BetaFace. This matches the picture against the faces of previous patients and, if it recognises it, serves up medical information about the person.

Until last week, Google gave app developers no option but to use a programming interface called Mirror, which did not give access to the camera or other sensors.

Some found a way around this by putting Glass in a special mode that allows it to be programmed just like any device that runs Google’s Android operating system. Now Google has told all developers how to do this hack, which opens up the possibilities. In this way, developer Mike DiGiovanni created an app called Winky that allows Glass wearers to take pictures with a wink rather than a voice command.

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food/

Fiona Hoister

Kelly Rox

How to make a Caesar Salad Because of a Mexican chef working in Tijuana in the 1920s.

1

I

n a very large bowl, whisk together the olive oil and garlic. Let sit for half an hour.

While the oil is sitting, make the croutons. Spread the baguette slices out over a baking sheet (may need to do in batches), lined with parchment paper or Silpat.

Brush or spray with olive oil (or melted butter, or if you want garlicky croutons, dip pastry brush in the garlic infused oil you have sitting in step 1).

Broil for a couple of minutes until the tops are lightly browned.

(Note: do not walk away, these can easily go from browned to burnt.)

Remove and let cool.

The steps up until this point can be made ahead.

2

3

A

dd anchovies and eggs to the oil garlic mixture.

Whisk until

creamy.

Add salt and pepper and 1/4 cup of lemon juice. Whisk in half of the Parmesan cheese. Taste, add more lemon juice to taste.

The lemon should give an edge to the dressing, but not overwhelm it.

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Using your hands, tear off chunks of lettuce from the heads of lettuce (do not use a knife to cut). Add to the oil mixture and toss until coated. Add the rest of the Parmesan cheese, toss.

4

Coarsely chop the toasted bread and add (with the crumbs from the chopping) to the salad. Toss. Serve immediately.

5

Do a little research into the background of the caesar salad and you’ll find that it is named not for some illustrious Roman emperor, but for Caesar Cardini, a Mexican chef working in Tijuana in the 1920s, who would dramatically serve it up table-side. (At least that’s how the story goes.) Fast forward to this century and you have what is probably the most popular restaurant salad in the country, with plenty of variations around the theme of romaine lettuce, garlic, Parmesan, and croutons. What follows is my she-can-cook-a-lotbetter-than-I-can friend Suzanne’s recipe, family size. I love Suzanne’s caesar salad, and have been a frequent guest at her house when it has happened to have been served (lucky!) She makes her own croutons from scratch, from baguette slices that have been brushed with olive oil, toasted, and then roughly chopped. This she does while the garlic has been soaking in olive oil in the serving bowl, a great way to infuse the oil with garlic.

If you have a concern about the raw eggs called for in this recipe, you can use pasteurized eggs, or you can coddle the eggs first by immersing them in boiling water for 1 minute, before cracking them open. If you don’t have anchovies available, add a teaspoon of worcestershire sauce to the dressing.

PS

H mag 121

pets/

Martha Romani

Shutterstock

Pets are good for Child health Help an animal survive well and that animal can help you emotionally.

T

he New York Times came up with an article recently entitled “Can Fido and Whiskers Enrich Children’s Lives?”

Different medical researchers and scientists were consulted for this article, which begs the question: Does research money really need to be spent on this type of question?

It’s one thing to write an essay on the topic, especially one coming from real experience. But asking scientists and medical professionals, who are doing research on child and pet relationships, for their opinion as if the facts aren’t entirely visible to anyone who bothers to look is rather far-fetched.

Here’s a real life anecdote illustrating that absurdity. A young family residing in a large college town had a pre-teen daughter, a dog, and two cats. The father was a college professor while the mother ran a small political fund raising operation out of their home.

The daughter asked, “Mom, do animals have feelings?” After a short pause, the mother answered, “I don’t know dear, science hasn’t figured that out yet.”

Relying on science or any authority to determine what should be observable

or perceived through experience is indicative of our cultural dysfunction.

Dogs especially need to exercise or they’ll get grumpy.

This is one good reason among others that children should have a pet or pets.

Animals, especially dogs, actually bond with human family members. Children can not only learn caretaking responsibility but compassion, as they perceive that indeed, dogs (and yes even cats) have feelings.

It takes a calm, even-tempered effort to channel pets into agreeable habits or coax them out of any bad ones. Allowing a child to be involved with caring for and training of the family pet can help that child develop character by practicing kindness and patience with appropriate firmness.

One of the doctors consulted in the above-mentioned article did comment that having a pet offers emotional support to children.

When children come home from school or play, the dog is there to happily greet them. This is observed as a real event by anyone who has a dog that is treated decently, especially one rescued from an animal shelter or the mean streets.

any scientists who research animals and sometimes even animal trainers assume other living non-human creatures are out of touch with real emotions or feelings because they’re out of touch themselves. It’s their own closed hearts that influence animals in their charge to clam up.

However, this doctor couched such behavior cynically with the implication that the pet is happy because you may have a food treat for it.

That’s just not usually true. This author has dealt with different animals from horses to parakeets, and dogs and cats.

They do show gratitude for help given and good company shared. They do not “mimic” body language, as most “experts” claim, solely for expected favors.

Of course, some dogs and cats can be a little out of sorts, just like humans. Allowing vets to drug or vaccinate them to the fullest extent can exacerbate such behavior and worsen your pet’s health.

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“Animals can often sense where humans are coming from emotionally even as they deceive fellow humans.”

M

Animals can often sense where humans are coming from emotionally even as they deceive fellow humans.

C

hildren can develop a finer sense of empathy by showing their open hearts to directly bond with a pet dog, cat, or other animal.

Pets sometimes attempt to comfort humans who are sad or upset. Children can use that break from stress when they’re having issues with other humans.

Pets aren’t appropriate for all kids.

But for many they’re fun to play with, interesting to observe, and a pleasure to have around. That’s healthy, and you don’t need a research team to figure that out.

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last minute/

Michael Gusner

Esther Olsen

Play your way to work with interactive Games Today people play games either at home or in a private bubble on their phones.

C

rowded, hot, boring: commuting is rarely enjoyable. Interactive games might help make your journey pass more quickly and pleasantly.

Chad Toprak of the Exertion Games Lab at RMIT University in Melbourne, Australia, and colleagues have developed a game called Cart-Load-o-Fun that can be installed on buses, trains or trams.

“Back in the 70s we had games arcades,” he says. “People would gather and a community would build up.”

But today people play games either at home or in a private bubble on their phones. Toprak wants to put games back into public space.

Cart-Load-o-Fun is similar to PacMan and involves two players who must work together to move a dot around on a screen, picking up gems and avoiding enemies. The players control the dot by squeezing special pads fixed to the overhead handholds on a tram. One player moves the dot left and right, the other up and down.

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The movement of the tram is part of the fun because players have to steady themselves with the handholds while playing. “Passengers found it amusing,” says Toprak’s colleague Floyd Mueller, also at RMIT University. “Even the driver was involved.” They discussed the work at the Foundations of Digital Games conference in Chania, Greece, last week.

It’s not all fun and games, though.

The tram company likes the game because it encourages people to hold on to the bars. “Games also make people perceive that their journey goes faster,” says Mueller.

This element has attracted the attention of a Melbourne ferry company that has spent a lot of money trying to cut down its journey times. Simply changing people’s commute with a game may be enough to keep them using the service.

Commuter games could also reduce congestion on overcrowded transport networks. Chromaroma, for example, turns the data collected every time you check in or out of a station on the London Underground into game stats. Players win points for passing through certain stations or they can compete for the fastest time between stops. Transport for London is interested in the game’s potential for crowd control. Players could be rewarded for avoiding congested stations, for example, or for getting off one stop before their destination.

Until last week, Google gave app developers no option but to use a

“Games also make people perceive that their journey goes faster” programming interface called Mirror, which did not give access to the camera or other sensors. Some found a way around this by putting Glass in a special mode that allows it to be programmed just like any device that runs Google’s Android operating system.

Now Google has told all developers how to do this hack, which opens up the possibilities. In this way, developer Mike DiGiovanni created an app called Winky that allows Glass wearers to take pictures with a wink rather than a voice command.

Investors are taking an interest. A start-up incubator called Stained Glass Labs and a venture-capital fund called Glass Collective were recently founded to support companies developing Glass apps.

With greater control over the device, developers are more likely to hit on a killer app. DiGiovanni thinks there will be many. “Everyone doing a job probably has something that would benefit from them having a lightweight hands-free device always on them,” he says.