How to Cook Indian (preview)

TA B L E O F CONTENTS SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS Introduction S 6

D Beverages S 18 CHAPTER 2 ......D Soups and Shorbas S 42 CHAPTER 3 ......D Salads and Raitas S 98 CHAPTER 4 ......D Chaats S 136 CHAPTER 5 ......D Kebabs, Snacks, and Starters S 18 CHAPTER 6 ......D Vegetarian Main Dishes S 18 CHAPTER 7 ......D Fish, Chicken, Lamb, and Mutton Main Dishes S 18 CHAPTER 8 ......D Breads S 202 CHAPTER 9 ......D Pulaos, Biryanis, and Rice S 18 CHAPTER 10 .....D Dals, Kadhis, and Sambhars S 18 CHAPTER 11 .....D Pickles and Chutneys S 18 CHAPTER 12 .....D Sweets and Mithais S 368 CHAPTER 13 .....D Foods for Fasts and Festivals S 422 CHAPTER 14 .....D 100 Indian Dishes You Must Eat Before You Die S 454 CHAPTER 15 .....D Indo-Chinese S 488 C H A P T E R 1 ......

Index S 496

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Punjabi Samosa

......D A deep-fried snack with a spicy stuffing that’s extremely popular in India. E................ ........................................................................................... Potatoes shouldn’t be deep-fried solely for the purpose of making French fries. They should be fried for a much greater purpose, such as for a samosa. It’s an art to make a good samosa. This dish takes practice, and it’s worth doing again and again until you make it perfectly. Serves 4

S For the dough

1 cup (120 grams / 4.2 ounces) maida (refined flour) ½ teaspoon ajwain (carom seeds), optional 5 teaspoons (25 grams) pure ghee 1 teaspoon (5 grams) table salt

S For the filling

1 tablespoon (6 grams) coriander seeds 1 teaspoon (3 grams) anardana (dried pomegranate seeds) 2 tablespoons (30 ml) oil 1 teaspoon (3 grams) cumin seeds 1 inch (10 grams) ginger piece, chopped (2 teaspoons) 3-4 green chiles, chopped (3-4 teaspoons) 4 medium (400 / 14.1 ounces) potatoes, boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed (2 cups) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) red chile powder 1 teaspoon amchur (dried mango powder) 1 teaspoon garam masala powder ¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) table salt ½ cup (75 grams / 2.6 ounces) shelled green peas, boiled (optional) 2 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Reduce heat to low. Add the green peas and potatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Add the cilantro leaves, and mix well. Take the pan off the stovetop and set aside to cool. Divide the cooled filling into 16 portions. Divide the dough into 8 equal portions and shape them into balls. Dust each ball with a little flour and roll out into elongated diskettes with a 4-inch diameter. Cut each diskette into half horizontally and dampen the edges with water. Place one half over the fingers of your left hand, with the straight edge resting over your forefinger. Fold over one end of the straight edge and bring it to the middle of the rounded edge. Then, fold over the other end and bring it over to the middle of the rounded edge to rest over the first end, making a seam. Press gently to seal the seam. You will find that you have created a cone. Open out the cone and make a small pleat directly opposite the seam and press gently. Fill the cone with the prepared stuffing. Bring together the seam and the pleat on the rounded edge and gently press the entire open end of the cone closed. This is a samosa. Make the remaining samosas in the same manner. Place a nonstick wok on high heat and pour in 1 quart oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, reduce heat to medium and gently slide the samosas, two at time, into the hot oil. Deep-fry the samosas for 7 minutes or until they are crisp and golden brown. While they are frying, gently agitate hot oil over the samosas with a slotted spoon. When done, remove the samosas from the oil with the slotted spoon, and place them on an absorbent paper towel so that excess oil is absorbed. Serve hot with sweet date and tamarind chutney.

1 quart (800 ml) oil, for deep-frying To make the dough, place the flour in a bowl. Add the ajwain (if using), ghee, and salt, then mix. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) water, little by little, and knead into a stiff dough. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside to rest for 10 to 15 minutes. To make the filling, place a small, nonstick pan on medium heat. Let it heat for 2 minutes, then add the coriander seeds and anardana and dry roast them for 1 minute or until fragrant. Set aside to cool, then transfer the seeds to a mortar. Grind with a pestle into a coarse powder. Place a shallow, nonstick pan on medium heat and pour in 2 tablespoons of oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin seeds. When they turn a light brown, add the ginger and chiles. Stir well; add red chile powder, amchur, garam masala powder, and salt. Stir well to mix.

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Punjabi Samosa

......D A deep-fried snack with a spicy stuffing that’s extremely popular in India. E................ ........................................................................................... Potatoes shouldn’t be deep-fried solely for the purpose of making French fries. They should be fried for a much greater purpose, such as for a samosa. It’s an art to make a good samosa. This dish takes practice, and it’s worth doing again and again until you make it perfectly. Serves 4

S For the dough

1 cup (120 grams / 4.2 ounces) maida (refined flour) ½ teaspoon ajwain (carom seeds), optional 5 teaspoons (25 grams) pure ghee 1 teaspoon (5 grams) table salt

S For the filling

1 tablespoon (6 grams) coriander seeds 1 teaspoon (3 grams) anardana (dried pomegranate seeds) 2 tablespoons (30 ml) oil 1 teaspoon (3 grams) cumin seeds 1 inch (10 grams) ginger piece, chopped (2 teaspoons) 3-4 green chiles, chopped (3-4 teaspoons) 4 medium (400 / 14.1 ounces) potatoes, boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed (2 cups) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) red chile powder 1 teaspoon amchur (dried mango powder) 1 teaspoon garam masala powder ¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) table salt ½ cup (75 grams / 2.6 ounces) shelled green peas, boiled (optional) 2 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Reduce heat to low. Add the green peas and potatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Add the cilantro leaves, and mix well. Take the pan off the stovetop and set aside to cool. Divide the cooled filling into 16 portions. Divide the dough into 8 equal portions and shape them into balls. Dust each ball with a little flour and roll out into elongated diskettes with a 4-inch diameter. Cut each diskette into half horizontally and dampen the edges with water. Place one half over the fingers of your left hand, with the straight edge resting over your forefinger. Fold over one end of the straight edge and bring it to the middle of the rounded edge. Then, fold over the other end and bring it over to the middle of the rounded edge to rest over the first end, making a seam. Press gently to seal the seam. You will find that you have created a cone. Open out the cone and make a small pleat directly opposite the seam and press gently. Fill the cone with the prepared stuffing. Bring together the seam and the pleat on the rounded edge and gently press the entire open end of the cone closed. This is a samosa. Make the remaining samosas in the same manner. Place a nonstick wok on high heat and pour in 1 quart oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, reduce heat to medium and gently slide the samosas, two at time, into the hot oil. Deep-fry the samosas for 7 minutes or until they are crisp and golden brown. While they are frying, gently agitate hot oil over the samosas with a slotted spoon. When done, remove the samosas from the oil with the slotted spoon, and place them on an absorbent paper towel so that excess oil is absorbed. Serve hot with sweet date and tamarind chutney.

1 quart (800 ml) oil, for deep-frying To make the dough, place the flour in a bowl. Add the ajwain (if using), ghee, and salt, then mix. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) water, little by little, and knead into a stiff dough. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside to rest for 10 to 15 minutes. To make the filling, place a small, nonstick pan on medium heat. Let it heat for 2 minutes, then add the coriander seeds and anardana and dry roast them for 1 minute or until fragrant. Set aside to cool, then transfer the seeds to a mortar. Grind with a pestle into a coarse powder. Place a shallow, nonstick pan on medium heat and pour in 2 tablespoons of oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin seeds. When they turn a light brown, add the ginger and chiles. Stir well; add red chile powder, amchur, garam masala powder, and salt. Stir well to mix.

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S HOW TO COOK INDIAN

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Hara Bhara Kabab

Rawa Dosai

This vegetarian appetizer is very popular in restaurants in India. At my Yellow Chilli restaurants, we add a layer of depth and complexity by stuffing the kebab with yogurt.

As a child this dish really fascinated me, especially at eateries where you could see the cook making it. They would sprinkle the batter onto the hot skillet instead of pouring it. Yet somehow it would all come together into a really crisp, savory pancake. I have long since learned that the secret lies in tempering the skillet before beginning: melting ghee on it and then wiping it clean before making each dosai.

......D Fresh spinach and potato kababs E................................................................ .......................................

Makes 24 kababs

200 grams (7 ounces) spinach leaves, blanched (see Chef’s Tip) and chopped (1 cup) ¾ cup (110 grams / 3.8 ounce) fresh or frozen green peas, boiled and mashed (½ cup) 3 (310 grams / 11 ounces) potatoes, boiled, peeled and grated (1 ½ cups) 2 green chiles, chopped (2 teaspoons) 2 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1 inch (8 grams) fresh ginger piece, peeled and chopped (2 teaspoons) 1 teaspoon (2 grams) chaat masala (see Chef’s Tip) 1 teaspoon (5 grams) table salt 2 tablespoons (20 grams) cornstarch 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil Place the spinach, peas, and potatoes in a deep bowl and mix well. Add chiles, cilantro leaves, ginger, chaat masala, and salt. Mix well. Add cornstarch and mix into a smooth, soft dough. Divide the spinach mixture into 12 equal portions. Shape each portion into a ball and then press it between your palms to give it a flat round shape that looks like a thick disc. These are the hara bhara kababs. Place a nonstick frying pan on medium-high heat and pour in 1 teaspoon oil. Place 6 kababs in the pan, keeping a little distance between each. Drizzle 1 teaspoon oil all around the kababs and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until the underside is golden brown. Then, using a spatula, turn over each kabab, drizzle 1 teaspoon oil around the pan, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more or until the other side is equally cooked to a golden brown. Drain on an absorbent paper towel. Cook the remaining 6 kababs in the same manner. Serve immediately.

......D Chef’s Tip

E To blanch the spinach leaves, boil 2 cups of water, add the leaves and boil for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain

and refresh in cold water. Drain again and process. You can use frozen chopped spinach if fresh is unavailable. Chaat masala is a spice blend available at Indian grocery stores.

......D A delicious crispy, thin pancake E................................................................... .........................................

Makes 4 servings

1 cup (200 grams / 7 ounces) rawa (semolina) ½ cup (75 grams / 2.6 ounces) rice flour ¼ cup (30 grams / 1 ounce) maida (refined flour) 1 quart (800 ml) water 1-inch piece (7 grams) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (2 teaspoons) 2 green chiles, stemmed and finely chopped (2 teaspoons) 12–15 black peppercorns, crushed ¼ piece (35 grams / 1.2 ounces) coconut, grated 2 teaspoons (10 grams) table salt 8 cashew nuts, crushed 2 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh cilantro leaves 4 teaspoons (20 grams) pure ghee (see Chef’s Tip) Place the rawa in a deep bowl. Add the rice flour and maida. Combine well. Add the water and whisk well using a wire whisk. There should not be any lumps in the batter; it should be quite thin and runny. Cover the bowl with a lid and allow the batter to rest for 15 minutes. Add the ginger, chiles, peppercorns, coconut, salt, cashew nuts, and cilantro leaves to the batter. Mix well. Place a large, nonstick frying pan on low heat and let it heat for 5 minutes. Brush with melted ghee. Dampen a small cloth with water and use it to wipe the ghee from the frying pan. Now the pan is “tempered” and ready for making the dosai. Take a ladleful of batter and pour it on the hot pan, in a circular motion, until it covers almost the entire pan. Cook on low heat. Drizzle a few drops of pure ghee all around the edges of the dosai. After 2 minutes, flip the dosai using a spatula and allow the underside to cook for 2 to 4 minutes. It will be crisp and golden. The sides of the dosai will start separating from the pan. This is a sign that it is done. Using a spatula, transfer the dosai to a plate and serve it immediately, ideally with sambhar and coconut and coriander chutney.

......D Chef’s Tip

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S HOW TO COOK INDIAN

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E If you have spread the dosai thin enough, you need not cook the other side. CHAPTER NAME

S 11 7/26/10 6:04 PM

Hara Bhara Kabab

Rawa Dosai

This vegetarian appetizer is very popular in restaurants in India. At my Yellow Chilli restaurants, we add a layer of depth and complexity by stuffing the kebab with yogurt.

As a child this dish really fascinated me, especially at eateries where you could see the cook making it. They would sprinkle the batter onto the hot skillet instead of pouring it. Yet somehow it would all come together into a really crisp, savory pancake. I have long since learned that the secret lies in tempering the skillet before beginning: melting ghee on it and then wiping it clean before making each dosai.

......D Fresh spinach and potato kababs E................................................................ .......................................

Makes 24 kababs

200 grams (7 ounces) spinach leaves, blanched (see Chef’s Tip) and chopped (1 cup) ¾ cup (110 grams / 3.8 ounce) fresh or frozen green peas, boiled and mashed (½ cup) 3 (310 grams / 11 ounces) potatoes, boiled, peeled and grated (1 ½ cups) 2 green chiles, chopped (2 teaspoons) 2 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1 inch (8 grams) fresh ginger piece, peeled and chopped (2 teaspoons) 1 teaspoon (2 grams) chaat masala (see Chef’s Tip) 1 teaspoon (5 grams) table salt 2 tablespoons (20 grams) cornstarch 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil Place the spinach, peas, and potatoes in a deep bowl and mix well. Add chiles, cilantro leaves, ginger, chaat masala, and salt. Mix well. Add cornstarch and mix into a smooth, soft dough. Divide the spinach mixture into 12 equal portions. Shape each portion into a ball and then press it between your palms to give it a flat round shape that looks like a thick disc. These are the hara bhara kababs. Place a nonstick frying pan on medium-high heat and pour in 1 teaspoon oil. Place 6 kababs in the pan, keeping a little distance between each. Drizzle 1 teaspoon oil all around the kababs and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until the underside is golden brown. Then, using a spatula, turn over each kabab, drizzle 1 teaspoon oil around the pan, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more or until the other side is equally cooked to a golden brown. Drain on an absorbent paper towel. Cook the remaining 6 kababs in the same manner. Serve immediately.

......D Chef’s Tip

E To blanch the spinach leaves, boil 2 cups of water, add the leaves and boil for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain

and refresh in cold water. Drain again and process. You can use frozen chopped spinach if fresh is unavailable. Chaat masala is a spice blend available at Indian grocery stores.

......D A delicious crispy, thin pancake E................................................................... .........................................

Makes 4 servings

1 cup (200 grams / 7 ounces) rawa (semolina) ½ cup (75 grams / 2.6 ounces) rice flour ¼ cup (30 grams / 1 ounce) maida (refined flour) 1 quart (800 ml) water 1-inch piece (7 grams) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (2 teaspoons) 2 green chiles, stemmed and finely chopped (2 teaspoons) 12–15 black peppercorns, crushed ¼ piece (35 grams / 1.2 ounces) coconut, grated 2 teaspoons (10 grams) table salt 8 cashew nuts, crushed 2 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh cilantro leaves 4 teaspoons (20 grams) pure ghee (see Chef’s Tip) Place the rawa in a deep bowl. Add the rice flour and maida. Combine well. Add the water and whisk well using a wire whisk. There should not be any lumps in the batter; it should be quite thin and runny. Cover the bowl with a lid and allow the batter to rest for 15 minutes. Add the ginger, chiles, peppercorns, coconut, salt, cashew nuts, and cilantro leaves to the batter. Mix well. Place a large, nonstick frying pan on low heat and let it heat for 5 minutes. Brush with melted ghee. Dampen a small cloth with water and use it to wipe the ghee from the frying pan. Now the pan is “tempered” and ready for making the dosai. Take a ladleful of batter and pour it on the hot pan, in a circular motion, until it covers almost the entire pan. Cook on low heat. Drizzle a few drops of pure ghee all around the edges of the dosai. After 2 minutes, flip the dosai using a spatula and allow the underside to cook for 2 to 4 minutes. It will be crisp and golden. The sides of the dosai will start separating from the pan. This is a sign that it is done. Using a spatula, transfer the dosai to a plate and serve it immediately, ideally with sambhar and coconut and coriander chutney.

......D Chef’s Tip

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S HOW TO COOK INDIAN

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E If you have spread the dosai thin enough, you need not cook the other side. CHAPTER NAME

S 11 7/26/10 6:04 PM

Badam Pista Kulfi

......D A frozen dessert with almonds and pistachios E................................................. .......................................................... My earliest memories of kulfi have always been about the traditional kulfi served with its faithful partner, falooda (thick vermicelli made of cornstarch). For some reason, my older brother Rajeev, who isn’t a chef but a strategy consultant, perfected the art of making falooda much before I did.

Ambe Sasam

......D Ripe mangoes and coconut salad with a wonderful mustard flavor E......................... ................................................................................. There’s not much that you should do with mango, but Ambe Sasam (with the right variety of mango) is an exception. When mangoes are not in season, you can make the sasam with other fruits, such as ripe banana, orange, pineapple, apple, and grapes.

Makes 4 servings

7 ½ cups (1½ liters) milk A pinch of saffron 1 tin (400 grams / 14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk ¼ cup (35 grams / 1.2 ounces) badam (almonds), coarsely ground ¼ cup (30 grams / 1 ounce) pistachios, coarsely ground ¾ cup (145 grams / 5.1 ounces) khoya/mawa (unsweetened condensed milk), grated (see Chef’s Tip)

3 medium (750 grams / 1.6 pounds) ripe mangoes ¾ cup (90 grams / 3.2 ounces) grated fresh coconut 2 bedgi mirchi (dried red chiles), seeded and roasted (see Chef’s Tip) ¼ teaspoon brown mustard seeds 1 teaspoon (5 grams) tamarind pulp 2 tablespoons (60 grams / 2 ounces) grated jaggery ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) table salt

Place a deep, nonstick pan on medium heat. Pour in milk and bring to a boil. Add saffron and reduce heat to low. Simmer for half an hour or until the milk is reduced by half.

Peel the mangoes, remove the seed, and cut into ½ inch cubes. You should have about 1½ cups of diced mango.

Add the sweetened condensed milk, almonds, and pistachios and mix well. Take the pan off the heat and set aside to let the mixture cool.

Place the coconut, red chiles, mustard seeds, tamarind pulp, and ¼ cup (50 ml) water in a blender and blend into a coarse paste. Add jaggery and a few of the mango pieces and blend again.

Add the unsweetened condensed milk and mix well. Pour into individual kulfi molds and place them in the freezer to set.

Place the mango cubes in a medium-size bowl. Add the blended mixture from step 2 and the salt and mix well.

When well set, de-mold the kulfi and serve immediately. (Of course, you can serve it with falooda, which is easily available at Indian grocery stores).

Cover the bowl and place in the refrigerator to chill for about 30 minutes. Serve cold.

......D Chef’s Tip

E Some Indian stores now sell khoya in their refrigerated section. You can use

instead of khoya if it is unavailable.

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3/ 4

cup powdered milk

......D Chef’s Tip

E Bedgi mirchi (a type of dried red chiles) are available at Indian grocery stores. You can substitute

any other variety of dried red chiles.

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