Whole Grains for a New Generation Sample

Krissoff

AMARANTH • BARLEY • BUCKWHEAT • CORN • MILLET • OATS • QUINOA • RICE • RYE • SORGHUM • TEFF • TRITICALE • WHEAT • WILD RICE “With a few exceptions, the food in this book is far from austere. Spices are used with abandon, as are fresh chiles and herbs, creamy Greek yogurt and homemade crème fraîche (so easy to make it’s ridiculous), bursting ripe vegetables and sweet-tart fruits, succulent meats and oily fish, and all-important salt—my cooking is inspired by all that’s flavorful, and I hope it serves as inspiration to you in turn.” —From the Introduction

Whole Grains for a New Generation presents more than 150 recipes for breakfast and brunch, appetizers and small bites, salads, main dishes and side dishes, sweets, snacks, sundry baked goods, and more. While some of these recipes happen to be vegetarian, some vegan, and some gluten free, all of them have one common characteristic: great flavor.

Get ready for Buckwheat Crêpes Filled with Buttered Fruit and Sweet Ricotta; Icy, Spicy Soba Noodle Salad; Sweet-Spiced Roast Chicken with Barley and Apricots; and Shrimp and Quinoa Spring Rolls. Featuring recipes using ingredients that are readily available at your local grocery store and more than 150 gorgeous photographs, this is a refreshing, hip, and modern handbook for using these ancient grains in your everyday kitchen.

LIANA KRISSOFF is the author of Canning for a New Generation, Secrets of Slow Cooking, and Hot Drinks for Cold Nights.

She lives with her husband and daughter in Athens, Georgia.

115 West 18th Street New York, NY 10011 www.stcbooks.com Printed in China

✽ WHOLE GRAINS FOR A NEW GENERATION

Whole Grains Have Never Been This Delicious

Whole Grains

FOR A NEW G E N E R AT I O N

Light Dishes, Hearty Meals, Sweet Treats, and Sundry Snacks for the Everyday Cook

U.S. $24.95 CAN $27.95 U.K. £15.99 ISBN ISBN978-1-61769-001-3 978-1-61769-001-3

52495

9 781617 690013

LIANA KRISSOFF Author of Canning for a New Generation Photographs by Rinne Allen

RED QUINOA AND CARROT SALAD WITH YELLOW PEPPER, GRAPEFRUIT, AND CRISPED DULSE Serves 4 | vegan, gluten free

My friend Regan pointed me toward a quinoa salad with sunflower seeds and seaweed in Peter Berley’s tome-ish Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, and it inspired this one. I use mild, crowdpleasing dulse seaweed here, quickly crisped in a little oil—it’s a good choice if you’re just beginning to use sea vegetables in your cooking, but you could substitute soaked and drained hijiki, arame, or a combination of several different seaweeds.

Or instead, hold a square of nori with heatproof tongs and pass it over a gas or electric burner to toast it, then crumble it over the salad.

Put the onion and sweet pepper in a small bowl and cover with ice water; set aside.

In a small sauté pan over medium heat, toast the sunflower seeds, tossing frequently, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Return the pan to mediumhigh heat and add the oil. Add the dulse and cook, pressing it down and turning with tongs or a spatula, until crisp and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain on a paper towel; set aside, reserving the oil in the pan.

With a sharp knife, cut the rind and white membrane off the grapefruit. Working over a large bowl, cut the segments from the inner membrane and let them fall into the bowl; squeeze juice from the empty membranes into the bowl. Add the lemon juice and chiles, then grate the carrot into the bowl.

Stir in 1 teaspoon salt and the oil from cooking the dulse.

• 1/ 2 sweet onion, diced • 1 yellow bell pepper, diced • Ice water • 1/ 2 cup (70 g) sunflower seeds • 1/4 cup (55 ml) olive oil • 8 g dulse seaweed (see Note), picked over and unfolded • 1 grapefruit • Juice of 1/ 2 lemon, or more if needed • 1 to 2 serrano chiles, minced • 1 carrot, peeled • Salt • 3 cups (550 g) cooked red quinoa (page 27), cooled

Dump the quinoa into the bowl with the grapefruit. Drain and add the onion and sweet pepper. Crumble in half of the crisped dulse. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if necessary. Serve, sprinkled with the remaining dulse, or chill in the refrigerator for up to 1 day (keep the dulse at room temperature and add at the last moment) and serve cold.

NOTE: Dulse (rhymes with “pulse”) is a beautiful red-

purple algae that grows on wave-splashed rocks and on larger seaweeds in cold northern reaches of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It’s dried and sold as whole leaves or ground into flakes or powder—use the larger leaves here rather than the finely ground. Dulse is a good source of iodine, which is important for those of us who prefer kosher salt to iodized. You can also use dulse for the rice balls on page 86.

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SWEET-SPICED ROAST CHICKEN WITH BARLEY AND APRICOTS Serves 4 to 6

This dish was inspired by a barley salad on the wonderful Simply Recipes website that featured ras al-hanout, a Moroccan spice mixture. With some bitter leaves like arugula or young dandelion greens dressed with a little salt, olive oil, and lemon juice on the side, this makes a lovely and special supper.

MAKE THE CHICKEN

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

Put the chicken in a large baking dish or pan. Pour half of the dressing over the chicken (reserve the rest in the bowl), turning to coat it on all sides, and arrange skin side up. Roast for 45 minutes (for leg quarters) to 1 hour (for a spatchcocked whole chicken), or until a thermometer inserted in a thigh reads 160°F (70°C) and the skin is crisp and golden. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.

FOR THE DRESSING

• • • • • • •

2 small lemons 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil

MAKE THE BARLEY

While the chicken cooks, combine the barley, salt, and 4 cups (960 ml) of water in a heavy saucepan. Cover, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the barley is tender and no trace of bright white is visible at the center when a grain is cut in half, about 40 minutes. Drain well. Add the barley, apricots, scallions, and cilantro to the reserved dressing and toss to combine. Serve the warm barley with the chicken.

FOR THE CHICKEN

• 1 (3-pound / 1.4-kg) whole chicken, spatchcocked (see Note), or 4 pounds (1.8 kg) chicken leg quarters FOR THE BARLEY

• • • • •

VARIATION

*

To make this a vegan salad: Omit the chicken (duh).

Reduce the dressing quantities by half and add 1 drained (15-ounce / 430-g) can chickpeas to the salad. Serve over bitter greens.

1 1/2 cups (300 g) raw hulled barley 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup (25 g) chopped dried apricots 2 scallions, thinly sliced 1/2 cup (40 g) chopped fresh cilantro

NOTE: To spatchcock a whole chicken, which helps it

roast faster and more evenly than a whole specimen, use a heavy knife to cut down either side of the backbone and remove it. Turn the chicken breast-meat side up and press down on the center bone with your palm to flatten the bird. (Some people add a couple extra steps in here—cutting out part of the keel bone and doing some fancy wing tucking—that I find to be unnecessary.)

MAKE THE DRESSING

Coarsely grate the zest from the lemons into a large bowl.

Juice the lemons into the bowl, picking out the seeds. Add the remaining ingredients and whisk to combine.

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PINHEAD OAT–CRUSTED CATFISH, ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND MUSTARD GREENS, AND LEMON CREAM Serves 4 | gluten free*

Pinhead oats, which are similar to steel-cut oats but contain some oats that are ground finer, like flour, make a foolproof crunchy-crisp gluten-free crust for pan-fried fish. You can exchange the catfish for just about any common white fish here—use a lower heat level under the pan and a longer cooking times for thicker fillets. Some good options include U.S. farmed tilapia, ocean perch, Pacific halibut, and line-caught Atlantic cod. Wild salmon would also be delicious—just be sure to avoid overcooking it.

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced by about half, then add the cream and lemon zest.

Simmer over medium heat until reduced and thickened, about 6 minutes, then whisk in the lemon juice. Remove from the heat. Season with salt to taste and set aside, covered to keep warm.

Add the greens to the cauliflower and toss with a metal spatula. Sprinkle with a little water and roast until the greens are wilted and tender and beginning to crisp, 5 to 7 minutes.

2 packed cups (85 g) chopped mustard greens 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 head cauliflower 4 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large shallot, minced 1/2 cup (120 ml) white wine 1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 cup (90 g) raw pinhead (Scottish) oats 4 (6-ounce / 170-g) pieces catfish fillet

In an extra-large sauté pan (or two large ones), heat the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Spread the oats on a plate. Season the fish with salt and pepper and lay each fillet on the oats, pressing gently so the oats adhere to one side. Put the fish in the pan (or pans), oat side down, and cook without disturbing until the oats are nicely browned and the opaqueness has moved about a third of the way through the thickest part of the fish, about 4 minutes depending on the thickness of the fillets. Use a metal spatula to carefully turn the fish over and cook until just opaque throughout, about 4 minutes. Pile the cauliflower, garlic, and greens on 4 serving plates, top with the fish, and spoon some of the sauce over everything. Serve immediately.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).

In a large bowl, toss the mustard greens with 1 teaspoon of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

..................................................................

* See page 25.

Trim the cauliflower and break it into florets. Put the cauliflower and garlic in a 9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) baking dish, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat with the oil. Roast until the cauliflower is very tender and golden brown, about 40 minutes.

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SWEET LEMON QUINOA CUSTARDS WITH PAPAYA SYRUP Serves 6 | vegan, gluten free

This elegant, clean-tasting dessert couldn’t be simpler.

In fact, the only challenge might be finding enough sortof-matching custard cups and the agar powder or flakes (check the baking aisle or bulk-spice sections of the health food store, or the specialty or “organic” area of a good supermarket). If keeping it vegetarian isn’t the goal, you can also make these pseudo-custards with unflavored gelatin: In a small saucepan, stir 1 teaspoon gelatin into 1/4 cup (60 ml) water and let soak for 5 minutes, then heat it over very low heat, stirring just until it’s dissolved, then continue with the recipe, stirring in the almond milk, sugar, and so on. Also, feel free to use regular whole milk if you like.

MAKE THE CUSTARDS

Set six 6-ounce (180-ml) custard cups or ramekins in a baking pan or on a plate. (If you want to serve them in the cups, you can use pretty mismatched teacups, as they won’t need to be heated in this recipe, just chilled.)

Put the quinoa and lemon zest in a large bowl and set aside.

In a small heavy saucepan, bring 1/4 cup (60 ml) water to a boil. Add the agar and stir well. Remove from the heat and let soak for 5 minutes. Stir in the almond milk, sugar, and salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly.

Simmer for 1 minute (the mixture will start to thicken), then pour over the quinoa mixture. Stir well, then divide the “custard” among the custard cups. Put in the refrigerator until set and chilled, about 2 hours (it will set in less than half that time, but it should be served completely cold). If not serving right away, cover with plastic wrap.

FOR THE CUSTARDS

• • • • • •

2 cups (370 g) cooked quinoa (page 27) Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon agar powder, or 2 tablespoons agar flakes 2 cups (480 ml) almond milk (page 71) 2/3 cup (130 g) sugar Pinch of salt

MAKE THE PAPAYA SYRUP

Put the papaya, sugar, and 1/2 cup (120 ml) water in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the papaya is very tender and the thinner edges start to become translucent, 15 to 25 minutes depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Transfer to a bowl or other container and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.

FOR THE PAPAYA SYRUP

• 1 small ripe papaya, peeled, halved, seeded, and chopped • 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar

To serve, loosen the edge of each custard with a knife and turn it out onto a serving plate. Spoon the papaya syrup and slices over the top and serve.

VARIATIONS

*

For a vanilla custard: Omit the lemon zest and add 1 split and scraped vanilla bean to the custard mixture. (After simmering, rinse, pat dry, and reserve the vanilla bean pod for another use.) * For a coconut custard: Replace 1 cup (240 ml) of the almond milk with coconut milk and add 1 tablespoon unsweetened shredded coconut to the custard mixture. * Use 2 mangoes instead of a papaya.

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