The Road to Manufacture

FIB R E A N D C LOT H BAS ICS The Road to Manufacture

CROSSV ILLE FAB RIC C HILE Crossville is the manufacturing base for Holland & Sherry, specialising in making merino, cashmere, linen and silk fabrics.

DYEING Dyeing imparts colour to the fibres.

BAC K WASH Drying and conditioning of the dyed raw material.

M I X ING Mixes either different colours of dyed wools together or combines a blend of different fibre types and colours.

COMBING Removes all the unwanted short, split and wiry fibres leaving a smooth, lustrous and uniform sliver.

G ILLING A further process to combing, gilling ensures that all the fibres are straight, even and uniform prior to spinning.

F INISHING (OR D RAWING) The drawing operation passes the sliver between sets of rollers onto bobbins. The sliver is wound onto the bobbin in a spiral shape, which is achieved by an oscillating to-ing and fro-ing motion.

S PINNING The process in which fibre is turned into yarn.

During spinning the fibres are drawn out further and twisted together to form yarn.

STE AMING After the fibre has been spun it is steamed to relax the yarn.

W IND ING The transfer of yarn from spinning tube to cone.

TW IST ING Combines two or more threads of yarn together to increase strength and uniformity.

YAR N STORE Where the yarn is stored until it is required for warping.

WARP ING Set out in a pre-determined colour pattern, warp threads are wound from cones on to warp mills creating a warp sequence that will run vertically in the cloth.

BE AM STORE When the warp is ready it is then wound onto a circular beam and transferred to the beam store, where it will be stored until ready for knotting-in.

KNOT T ING- IN Individual ends are tied to the end of the last warp and pulled through the heddles of the loom ready to weave.

W EAV ING – D OBBY Weft yarn is inserted horizontally across the cloth. A Dobby loom consists of shafts that lift up and down to create a pre-determined pattern by the designer in a small repeat pattern.

W EAV ING – J AC QUARD Weft yarn is inserted horizontally across the cloth. A Jacquard loom consists of a larger number of lifting units enabling larger patterns and motifs to be created that can’t be woven with a dobby loom.

S C OURING A cleaning process to remove dirt, processing oils and natural fats from the fabric.

M I LLING Flannel fabrics are milled to transform a loosely woven fabric, composed of fibres loosely spun, into a compact, firm, solid cloth.

DYEING – P IEC ES Dyeing pieces imparts colour to the whole fabric. It requires dye powders, water, heat and agitation.

TENT ER Tentering combines the drying, straightening and stretching of the fabric.

CROP P ING Cropping is used on natural fibre woven fabrics to remove surface hairiness.

The cloth is cropped by machines by passing the fabric over rotating spiral blades which shave the surfaces.

PRESS Firmly flattens the fibres of the cloth upon each other making the fabric firm, solid, smooth and lustrous.

KD FINISH The primary aim of decatising is to set the fabric in a regular and permanent manner.

This consists of subjecting the wool fibre in piece form to the action of steam under pressure.

IN SP EC T ION Every fabric manufactured is inspected for quality and any faults in the colour and design.

PIEC E WAREHOUSE Each piece is rolled and packed ready for the journey to our customers.

SHOWROOM 9/10 Savile Row London W1S 3PF T: +44 (0)207 437 0404 F: +44 (0)207 734 6110

WAREHOUSE & ADMINISTRATION Venlaw Road Peebles EH45 8DD T: +44 (0)1721 720101 F: +44 (0)1721 722309

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