A STUDY ON
HIGH STREET AND DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS
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Hollie Tansey ID:200923491 DESN2375 Fashion Promotions
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CONTENTS
PHASE ONE 4 THE IMPORTANCE OF COLLABORATIONS 6 ABOUT H&M 8 ABOUT KENZO x H&M 11 RETAINING BRAND PROPOSITION 14 BRANDING 16 THE COLLECTION 18-19 PROMOTIONAL PATH 20-21 PUBLICITY 22-23 SALES AND VISUAL MERCHANDISING 24
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PHASE TWO 26 CORNELIA WEBB BRAND IDENTITY 28 MOODBOARD 30-33 TARGET CUSTOMER 34-35 H&M CURRENT RANGE 36-37 H&M COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 38-39 AW18 JEWELLERY TRENDS 40-41 CORNELIA WEBB X H&M COLLECTION 42-53 MARKETING PLAN 54-59 REFERENCES AND FIGURES LIST 60-65 APPENDICES 66-68 3
PHASE ONE Phase one explores the importance of collaborations and looks at high-street retailer H&M - who have collaborated with many designers and celebrities over the past 14 years, starting with Karl Lagerfeld, and including Madonna, Balmain, and Isabel Marant. In 2016 H&M collaborated with Kenzo; the marketing of this collaboration will be thoroughly evaluated as a case study in phase one.
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FIG. 1
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THE IMPORTANCE OF COLLABORATIONS
Designer high-street collaborations benefit the customer, the designer and the high-street retailer respectively. Tungate (2012, p.32) summarises the primary business benefit of collaborations as “lots of free publicity for everyone”, whilst P o s n e r ( 2 0 1 5 ) l i s t s i n c re a s e d exposure, enhanced prestige and shared resources as other positive outcomes. Most designer high-street collaborations are short-term and collections are produced in limited numbers. Evaluating H&M’s designer collaboration promotion methods using the AIDA model – which encompasses cognitive, affective and conative steps of consumer behaviour (Masterson et. al, 2017) – shows how media coverage of the p ro m o t i o n a l l a u n c h a c t i v i t i e s intensifies the attraction and interest stages, which means enough desire is created to spur consumers to take immediate action, causing the collections to sell out almost instantly. As an outcome, the highstreet retailer’s fashion credibility increases, as they share the glory surrounding the creativity and expertise shown in the collection and the designer is exposed to a much larger audience so gains a new prominence. Usually, high-street consumers are constrained by price, so their purchases are considered
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imitations. Imitation is a concept regarded as a way of emulating those higher up (Spencer, 1897; Tarde, 1903; Hunt, 1996). The significance of imitation to fashion is the trickle-down effect, where highstreet designs are often imitations of designer products rather than original ideas. So, high-street consumers generally don’t have access to original designs. Kawamura (2005, p.19) states “there must be differences of social position but it must seem possible and desirable to bridge these differences”. Designer high-street collaborations allow their customers to bridge the differences usually blocked by their social position by giving them access to new, original designs previously inaccessible to them. Furthermore, another sociological perspective is that the customer’s reputation is also enhanced. Due to the limited availability of designer high-street collections, a sense of exclusivity is created. Wearing a limited-edition product that has been well publicised can be fundamentally classified as a form of conspicuous consumption as this would be regarded by Veblen (1899) as being prominent at the time which is a property that indicates conspicuous consumption.
FIG. 2
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ABOUT H&M
FIG. 3
H&M is an international high-street fashion retailer founded in Sweden. It is a part of the H&M group which own several other high-street retailers such as Monki and COS. H&M describes itself as “value-driven”; “customer-focused”; “fun” and “creative” (H&M, 2018b). In their brand film, H&M demonstrate their inclusive target customer range by showing a variety of people of all ages. Whilst they do not implicitly state their target customers, and they refer to their customers as ‘fashion fans’ (H&M, 2018) encompassing a very wide demographic. Observations of H&M stores in Leeds and Bristol (see appendix 1) confirm this wide demographic, as people of all ages and ethnicities were shopping in-store. From observing what customers were wearing, it is also notable that H&M attracts all individuals from trend-setting innovators to those in the late majority (Rogers cited in Jackson and Shaw, 2009).
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FIG. 4
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FIG. 5
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In 2016, Kenzo collaborated with H&M and produced a range of 106 pieces including clothing and accessories for men and women. Kapferer’s (2012) brand identity prism (see appendix 2) demonstrates Kenzo and H&M share some similarities despite being from different levels of the market. Kenzo is described by one of its creative directors, Humberto Leon (cited in H&M, 2016) as being all about “youthful spirit, having fun and community”. H&M’s brand identity and their own campaigns, such as the Autumn Winter 2016 ‘She’s a Lady’ campaign, arguably encapsulate similar traits: they push inclusivity and a sense of fun and carefree living. The collection has a substantial presence of electric coloured animal prints and bright clashing florals, and Kenzo’s creative directors took inspiration from their archives “[bringing] back certain silhouettes and prints” (Leon cited in Chadha, 2016). The statement pieces of the range reflected Kenzo’s bold and original designs and appealed to the more daring H&M customer; whilst an array of somewhat tamer pieces featuring an alternative take on Kenzo’s iconic tiger gave the average customer a taste of the Kenzo’s aesthetic and unique brand personality.
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ABOUT THE COLLABORATION
Kenzo - a French designer brand with Japanese influences - is most recognised for its iconic tiger print. This print appears throughout their designs; primarily on sweatshirts and t-shirts but also frequently within their jewellery range and accessories. As with H&M, Kenzo has a very inclusive approach to target customer base - with customers from their teens to their 70s (Leon, 2012).
FIG. 6
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FIG. 8
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RETAINING BRAND PROPOSITION
The creative directors at Kenzo maintained a strong presence of their brand DNA in the collection with “boldly confident pieces in loud and proud prints” (Chadha, 2016) as this is what they are most recognised for. Whilst the prints and silhouettes were not the same as their current Kenzo core pieces, inspiration was taken from their archives allowing customers with high-street budgets to fully experience the spirit of the brand. A range of affordable accessories were designed for the collection starting from £7.99 for a pair of socks. These low prices preserve H&M’s reputation for making fashion accessible to its customers. The inclusion of lower priced products is important for retaining the support of customers who shop in H&M all year round and not just for collaboration pieces, as familiar price points are something consumers associate with the brands they follow (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). Alongside these were more expensive pieces such as coats and dresses, of which most were between £100 and £300. Statement pieces often attract a more fashion-forward crowd - likely more familiar with high-end brands and more comfortable spending more on fashion - to H&M, potentially further widening H&M’s customer base. This pricing architecture satisfies both H&M core customers - who potentially admire the designs from high-end brands such as Kenzo, despite likely being unable to afford to purchase their products - and customers with larger budgets wanting to buy more exclusive pieces. Whilst there is potential concern for the dilution of a brand’s prestige when it is made accessible (Chiles cited in Posner, 2015), Kenzo ensured this did not happen: the prints and logos used for H&M, such as their iconic tiger, were noticeably different to their core collection.
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FIG. 7
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FIG. 9
BRANDING
Before the collection launched, to advertise the upcoming collaboration, a series of posters were displayed in-store, on social media and in the press. The prints used for the backgrounds of the posters were the same prints featuring on the collection products. These same prints were also integrated into the promotional video, visual merchandising in-store and at the launch event. The use of the same prints and colours across all elements demonstrated effective integrated marketing communications. According to Masterson et al. (2017, p.517) this complementary approach “avoid(s) mixed messages and strengthens the brand� and it arguably increases recognition and memorability for the audience.
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FIG. 10
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COLLECTION WIDTH AND DEPTH
64 WOMENSWEAR PRODUCTS… 9 dresses 17 tops 8 bottoms 6 outerwear 3 pairs of shoes 21 accessories
FIG. 11
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42 MENSWEAR PRODUCTS… 18 tops 4 bottoms 8 outerwear 2 pairs of shoes 10 accessories
FIG. 12
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First Announcement and Teaser on 25th May 2016: KENZO and H&M announce their plan to collaborate with a press release and a 16 second video on Instagram and YouTube. Video provides a teaser for the prints and inspiration for the upcoming range. Media coverage from: • B r i t i s h Vo g u e : H & M C o n f i r m s K e n z o Collaboration (Conlon, 2016); • Business of Fashion: H&M announces designer collaboration with Kenzo (Reuters, 2016); • Dazed Digital: Kenzo is teaming up with H&M for a new collection (Allwood, 2016); • GQ: Here’s Why You Should Be Excited About H&M’s Nezt Designer Collaboration (Fenner, 2016); • …many more.
Another First Look Released on 19th August 2016: Another ambassador is introduced, Anna of the North. She is unveiled wearing an unseen dress from the collection.
PROMOTIONAL PATH
First Looks Released on 26th July 2016: H&M release the first look at the collection on Snapchat; followed by a press release and other social media. This is then publicised by the mass media. They introduce their first ambassadors, who model the collection: Amy Sall, Juliana Huxtable, Oko Ebomo and Isamaya Ffrench.
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Launch Party and Complete Collection Revealed on 19th October 2016: The complete collection and prices are revealed. The launch party / fashion show event takes place in New York with lots of performers and many famous attendees. Celebrities / influencers attended: Chloe Sevigny, Joe Jonas, Chance the Rapper, Iman, Lupita Ngoyo, Charli XCX and more.
Product Available in-store and online on 3rd November 2016: The collection becomes available in-store and online. Many pieces sell out almost immediately (Grice, 2016).
Jessica Alba wears Kenzo x H&M on 5th October 2016: Actress, Jessica Alba is spotted out in Paris wearing a dress from the upcoming collection, which is the first time a piece from the collection is seen being in real life, as apposed to in the campaign (Rodulfo, 2016).
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PUBLICITY FIG. 13
As noted on the promotional path timeline on the previous pages, H&M teased customers by releasing images of their ambassadors in a few select pieces from the collection months before it was available. This generated continued publicity during the 6 month lead-up to product launch. Just one month before the launch, Jessica Alba was spotted out in Paris wearing a dress from the collection. Alba is considered an A-List celebrity and there is a societal tendency to keep up with and discuss celebrities’ lives, as Lea-Greenwood (2013, p. 75) puts it: “the public have an insatiable desire to know the very latest on the celebrity circuit”. Therefore, this buzz arguably increases conversation and excitement amongst the public (Masterson et al., 2017; Rosen, 2001) increasing the chances of success for the collection.
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The intention of hosting a launch event is to “submerge attendees in brand DNA and provide a reason to write, film, or photograph the event in the media” (Cope and Maloney, 2016, p.145). The Kenzo x H&M launch event had celebrities, influencers and members of the press in attendance. The event began with a fashion show, which was followed with a performance from rapper Ice Cube, and attendees could also access pieces from the collection before the public. Vogue journalist Steff Yotka (2016) described the fashion show as follows: At tonight’s Kenzo x H&M fashion show, creative duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon managed to crack the code of how to make high-concept fashion feel highfalutin fun … with a cast of dancers, brass players, drummers, MCs, and proper models bumping and strutting around a square runway, sometimes contorting their faces, other times taking tiny staccato steps. To those in the audience, it was an invigorating whoop!—proving a runway show can be at once reverent, relevant, and a bonafide good time. Many prominent attendees at the event such as Joe Jonas, Charli XCX and Lupita Ngoyo were photographed wearing pieces from the collection, which were published in the media the following day. The sheer velocity of spectacle, with dancers and performers, ensures a launch event successfully provides sufficient reason for media coverage (Cope and Maloney, 2016).
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SALES AND VISUAL MERCHANDISING
Window displays can be used to “tell a fashion story showcasing a hot new seasonal trend or designer collection� (Posner, 2016, p.173). The dancing mannequins window display shown in Figure 14 are a reproduction of the performers seen at the launch party, and effectively telling the Kenzo x H&M story and reflecting the excitement and spirit of the collection. Sections of H&M stores were dedicated to the collection and were decorated with the prints from the collection, as were the bags customers were given to carry their purchases in. The night before the launch, customers queued outside H&M stores and on the day of the launch, many pieces sold out online almost instantly, with the amount of traffic causing the website to crash (WGSN Insider, 2016). By midday of the collection launch date, items from the collection were on resale sites such as eBay for more than double the original price (Young, 2016). Almost two years after the collaboration launch, there are still unworn items - with tags still on - from the collection for sale on Vestiaire Collective*.
*correct as of 20th April 2018
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FIG. 14 FIG. 15
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PHASE TWO
FIG. 16
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Phase Two explores the potential of a future collaboration between Stockholm-based jewellery designer Cornelia Webb and H&M. Despite H&M collaborating with many designers over the years, they have never collaborated with a jewellery designer. Whilst their collections from past collaborations have included some jewellery pieces, the focus has been on garments. This collaboration will be focused purely on jewellery. In recent years, H&M have been focused on building a reputation as a sustainable high-street retailer, with their CONSCIOUS range of garments being made from sustainable materials. Therefore, a collaboration for an ethical range of jewellery is a way to further establish their positive sustainable reputation. Further more, the collaboration takes H&M back to its Swedish roots by championing and promoting Swedish design.
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BRAND IDENTITY
“Niche brands come with a story- niche is knowledge, niche is the kudos of being in the know.� (Posner, 2015, p.130) Arguably a niche brand, Cornelia Webb is a self-taught designer with a medical background. Her minimalist designs are inspired by the body, with finger print textures featuring on almost every piece and some items moulded from body parts, such as fingers and nipples. The current Cornelia Webb collection is stocked on her own website, and by Net-A-Porter, Farfetch, Browns Fashion and Harvey Nichols, alongside other smaller retailers. Since 2017 she has been also producing an exclusive annual bridal collection for Net-A-Porter.
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FIG. 17
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MOODBOARD FIG. 36
Webb uses recycled materials with silver and gold plating and many pieces feature natural elements such as fresh water pearls, granite, and rose quartz. Her ethical approach to jewellery making gives her work a unique quality: In response to our growing urban existence, Cornelia Webb emphasises craftsmanship, timelessness and environmental consciousness in her work. Cornelia chooses to reinvent design rather than constantly produce new items. A product’s life cycle replaces its life span. Recycled metal and found nature findings  are reused, so they can continue their cycle as re-imagined objects which bear the energy of both the present and the past.
Cornelia Webb (2018)
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FIG. 37
FIG. 35
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FIG. 37
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HUMAN FORM
FIG. 38
MINIMALIST
INTRICATE
REFINED
LUXURY
CRAFT
RAW See appendix 3 for Cornelia Webb Brand Identity Prism (Kapferer, 2012).
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TARGET CUSTOMER
FIG. 20
FIG. 18
FIG. 21
FIG. 19
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21-35 young professional female with a refined style. Passionate about: creativity, culture, self-expression, travelling Favourite locations to visit: Paris, Copenhagen, Dubrovnik, Split Shopping habits: Mainly shops with H&M group brands &Other Stories and COS. Also, ASOS, MANGO and TOPSHOP. Often visits H&M for the affordable statement pieces such as oversized jumpers and floral dresses. They let their clothes do the talking but delicate jewellery is essential to finish off their outfit. They mix and match high street and designer jewellery for an eclectic finish. Go-to jewellery brands: Monica Vinader, Missoma, independent designers on Etsy, &Other Stories, Z by Accessorize, Daisy London. What do they look for in jewellery? Gold or silver plating. so that it lasts longer. Easy to style. Minimalist chic. Not too trend led.
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FIG. 25
FIG. 23
FIG. 22
FIG. 24
6-Pack Rings £3.99 Also available in silver and rose gold
Necklace £3.99 Bracelet £3.99 Also available in silver
Earrings £1.99 FIG. 27
FIG. 29
FIG. 26
FIG. 28
Silver plated ring £17.99
Sparkly stones necklace £29.99 Silver plated bangle £39.99
H&M SS18 RANGE
Silver plated earrings £29.99
H&M currently have a jewellery range of 229 pieces including earrings, necklaces, bracelets, bangles and rings. Shown above is the cheapest and most expensive items from each product category. Most of H&M’s jewellery products are made from 100% steel or 10% brass which are affordable but lower quality materials, however they do offer a few premium pieces. These more expensive items often feature plating of more durable metals such as silver, seen on the bangle (figure28) and ring (figure 29), or are more intricately designed. H&M regularly offer jewellery multi-packs - as seen with the rings in figure 25.
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FIG. 30
In H&M stores, jewellery is located in the accessories area. Observations in-store show products are often grouped in colour and trend, with a whole stand in the Leeds store dedicated to tassel earrings, which are continuing as commercial trend for summer 2018 (Correa, 2017). Other trends present in H&M’s online jewellery range are mis-matching earrings, adorned hoops and layered chains (Correa, 2017).
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H&M COMPETITOR ANALYSIS
H&M’s key competitors are ZARA, New Look and TOPSHOP. New Look and ZARA have jewellery ranges under their own name, whilst Topshop sell jewellery under their sublabel brand “Freedom at TOPSHOP” and also have jewellery concessions for smaller independent brands - such as Orelia and Skinnydip - in many stores. Online jewellery ranges for the retailers show currently Zara has 58 items, New Look has 777 items and Topshop has 219 items.
FIG. 31
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FIG. 32
ZARA Transparent Stone Earrings £12.99
FIG. 33
New Look Abstract Pearl Necklace £9.99
FIG. 34
TOPSHOP Cage Cuff Bracelet £12.50
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NATURALLY PRECIOUS
AW18 JEWELLERY TRENDS
FIG. 39
“Simple forms give this story an organic quality, and adorn rustic artisanal accessories and jewellery. Irregularity is celebrated and traditional fine jewellery is recreated with these earthy gems.” (WSGSN, 2017b)
WGSN report that the Thinker is a key trend influencing jewellery sector for the AW 18/19 season. An aspect of this movement is that designers are encouraging consumers to connect more personally with the products they buy: “consumers increasingly want to feel connected to their purchases, resulting in greater focus on craftsmanship and investment pieces that can become future heirlooms” (WGSN, 2017). Another trend identified by WGSN – HumaNature explores influences of nature, with organic shapes and ‘earthy gems’ (WGSN, 2017b) featuring in jewellery designs. These two trends can already be seen in Cornelia Webb jewellery, as she uses natural stones and elements in many pieces and anatomical and organic shapes inspire many of her designs, with most items having fingerprints on which “give(s) them a handcrafted feel …(and) reinforces the human connection” (GeorgeParkin, 2016).
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FIG. 40
FIG. 42
FIG. 41 "Motifs are inspired by body parts such as hands, and replicas of everyday items bring a sculptural, at times bizarre feel to jewellery and accessories.” (WGSN, 2017)
SURREALIST MOVEMENT
FIG. 43
“This directional theme offers an opportunity to experiment with materials and surface, with items that appear to be unearthed from the ground or crafted to become a simple, functional accessories." (WGSN, 2017b)
FIG. 44
HUMBLE ARTEFACTS
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THE COLLECTION The collection consists of four pairs of earrings, one bangle, two necklaces, a collar, and two rings. The table on page 41 gives a description of each piece, including materials, size options and recommended retail prices. The following pages show the inspiration behind each piece from both the catwalks and Cornelia Webb’s current range and are ordered via metal colour and stones.
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Item
Description
Sizes
Material
Retail price
Silver mismatched earrings
one size
Sterling silver plated brass with grey druzy
£34.99
Silver drop earrings
one size
Sterling silver plated brass with granite
£34.99
Gold pearl studded organic moulded earrings
one size
14ct gold plated brass with fresh water pearl
£39.99
Pearl drop earrings
one size
Sterling silver plated brass with fresh water pearls
£29.99
Decorative stone bangle
S-M, ML
Sterling silver plated brass with grey druzy
£39.99
Multi-chain necklace
one size
Sterling silver plated brass with granite
£34.99
Silver lariat
one size
Sterling silver plated brass with grey druzy
£34.99
Gold collar
one size
14ct gold plated brass
£49.99
Gold triple rings
S, M, L
14ct gold plated brass
£39.99
Silver pearl ring
S, M, L
Sterling silver plated brass with fresh water pearl
£24.99
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THE COLLAR
14ct gold plated brass collar £49.99 The collar was seen regularly across the catwalks of the AW18 shows, signifying a move away from chokers (Sturch, 2018). A take on Cornelia Webb’s moulded collar bone collars, shown in figure 46.
FIG. 45
FIG. 46
FIG. 47
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£39.99 Sizes: S, M, L FIG. 50
A take on Cornelia Webb’s Moulded Organic Two Finger Ring shown in figure 48.
FIG. 49
THE HAMMERED RINGS
14ct gold plated hammered three finger ring
FIG. 48
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THE MOULDED EARRINGS
14ct Gold plated pearl stud moulded earrings £39.99 The organic shape is inspired by the HumaNature trend (WGSN, 2017b) and by Cornelia Webb’s anatomical shaped jewellery, like the earrings in figure 52 inspired by the spinal cord.
FIG. 51
FIG. 53
FIG. 52
46
£39.99 FIG. 56 Sizes: S-M, M-L The bangle incorporates natural elements which follows on from Cornelia Webb’s usage of stones in her collections.
THE DECORATIVE BANGLE
Sterling silver bangle with grey druzy
FIG. 55
FIG. 54
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THE LARIAT
Sterling silver lariat with grey druzy £34.99 The lariat was seen across AW18 catwalks as a new necklace style (Sturch, 2018). A take on the pendants in Cornelia Webb’s collection like in figure 58.
FIG. 59
FIG. 58 FIG. 57
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ÂŁ34.99 The asymmetric (mis-matching) earrings trend is continuing to gain commercial popularity for AW18 (Sturch, 2018). FIG. 62
This minimalist take on the trend is inspired by Cornelia Webb’s range of single earrings which can be bought alone or mixed and matched, like the one seen in figure 61.
FIG. 60
THE MISMATCHED EARRINGS
Sterling silver mismatch earrings with druzy
FIG. 61
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THE PEARL DROP EARRINGS
Sterling silver pearl drop earrings £29.99 Classic pearl earrings are given a new twist for AW18 (Sturch, 2018). Cornelia Webb’s earring range heavily features pearls, so this is a new take on the existing designs. FIG. 65
FIG. 63
FIG. 64
50
£24.99 A new take on the pearl rings seen in Cornelia Webb’s current range, as shown in figure 67.
FIG. 68
FIG. 66
THE PEARL RING
Sterling silver chunky pearl ring.
FIG. 67
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THE MULTI-CHAIN NECKLACE
Sterling silver multi-chain necklace with granite £34.99 A simple way of incorporating natural elements into jewellery, the pendant chain is a take on Cornelia Webb’s charmed necklaces (figure 70).
FIG. 71
FIG. 69 FIG. 70
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£34.99 These earrings follow the adorned hoops trend seen across AW18 catwalks (Sturch, 2018). By incorporating natural elements, it follows on from Cornelia Webb’s usage of stones in her collections (figure 73).
FIG. 74
THE HOOP EARRINGS
Sterling silver hoops with granite
FIG. 72 FIG. 73
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X
MARKETING PLAN The marketing communications plan for the collaboration will follow a similar pattern to H&M’s past collaborations with a press release and a teaser video on social media on the day of the announcement. The launch party will reflect the Cornelia Webb brand identity, with a focus on the body - an exhibition gallery demonstrating the way jewellery sits against the skin and the curves of the body, and contemporary dancers wearing the jewellery as they move around the room performing.
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Stages of AIDA (Masterson et al., 2017)
Timeline
Strategies
Attention
April 2018
The collaboration is announced on the social media channels of Cornelia Webb and H&M. A press release will be sent to: Vogue, Elle, Harpers Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, Glamour, The Independent, The Times, Refinery 29, Bustle, and i-D.
Interest
May - September 2018
A series of teaser image of the collection are released over the course of these months. A select few fashion publications (Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle) are given pieces from the collection to feature in spreads. Swedish actress Alicia Vikander (Lara Stone), will be given a few items to wear at an event. Billboards, in-store posters and online advertisement posters will promote the collection’s launch.
Desire
October 2018
The launch event will take place and the full collection will be revealed to the public via Vogue, Refinery 29 and The Independent - as these publications are most likely to be subscribed to by the target audience. Attendees of the launch will include fashion editors, celebrities and influencers.
Action
November 2018
The collection will be available online and in select stores. The collection will be situated in a designated area with minimalist visual merchandising, as if in a jewellery boutique, and specially trained staff knowledgeable about sourcing of the materials, metal allergens and jewellery care. High quality gift bags with ribbon handles will be given out with each in-store purchase.
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ANNOUNCEMENT
FIG. 75
We’re doing something different this time round… We’re bringing you our first ever jewellery collaboration, with renowned Swedish designer Cornelia Webb. @CorneliaWebbJewellery. Available in selected stores and online 18th November
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First Jewellery Collaboration with Cornelia Webb FIG. 76
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FIG. 77
58
LAUNCH EVENT
BRANDING X
FIG. 78
FIG. 79
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REFERENCES
Allwood, E.H. 2016. Kenzo is teaming up with H&M for a new collection. [Online]. [Accessed 18/3/18]. Available from: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/31257/1/kenzo-are-hm-snew-designer-collaboration Chadha, T. 2016. Kenzo: I Predict a Riot. [Online]. [Accessed 18/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.elle.com/uk/fashion/longform/a32540/kenzo-x-hm-carol-lim-humberto-leon-model-bhumikaarora/ Conlon, S. 2016. H&M Confirms Kenzo Collaboration. [Online]. [Accessed 18/3/18]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/hm-designer-collaboration-kenzo-2016 Cope, J. and Maloney, D. Fashion Promotion in Practice. London: Fairchild. Correa, A. 2017. WGSN Report: Key Items Pre Summer 2018: Jewellery. [Online]. [Accessed 21/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/ 73674/page/1 Fenner, J. 2016. Here’s Why You Should Be Excited About H&M’s Nezt Designer Collaboration. [Online]. [Accessed 18/3/18]. Available from: https://www.gq.com/story/hm-announces-kenzocollaboration-2016 George-Parkin, H. 2016. Cornelia Webb: Meet the Swedish Designer Taking ‘Personalised’ Jewelry to the Next Level. [Online]. [Accessed 21/4/18]. Available from: http://stylecaster.com/corneliawebb-jewelry/ Grice, S. 2016. How to get your hands on the KENZO x H&M collection if you missed out yesterday. [Online]. [Accessed 18/3/18]. Available from: http://metro.co.uk/2016/11/04/how-to-get-your-hands-on-the-kenzo-x-hm-collection-if-you-missedout-yesterday-6235412/?ito=cbshare
H&M. 2018. About H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 1/3/18]. Available from: http://about.hm.com/en/ brands/hm.html H&M. 2018b. The H&M Way. [Online]. [Accessed 1/3/18]. Available from: https://about.hm.com/ content/dam/hmgroup/groupsite/documents/en/hm-way/HM%20Way_en.pdf H&M. 2016. KENZO x H&M interview with Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. [Online]. [Accessed 20/3/18]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch? time_continue=68&v=dBVLBg1-HBs Hunt, A. 1996. Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law. New York: St. Martin’s Press.
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Lea-Greenwood, G. 2013. Fashion Marketing Communications. Chichester: John Wiley and Sons. Leon, H. 2012. Interview with S. Lau. 30 June 2013, Paris. Masterson, R. Phillips N. and Pickton, D. 2017. Marketing: An Introduction. London: Sage Publications Ltd. Posner, H. 2015. Marketing Fashion: Strategy, Branding and Promotion. 2nd Edition. London: Laurence King. Rosen, E. 2001. The anatomy of buzz: creating word-of-mouth marketing. London: Harper Collins. Reuters. 2016. H&M announces designer collaboration with Kenzo. [Online]. [Accessed 18/3/18]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/hm-in-designercollaboration-with-kenzo Spencer, H. 1896. The Principles of Sociology. New York: D. Aooleton and Co. Sturch, K. 2018. Key Items A/W 18/19 Jewellery. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/8 Tarde, G. 1903. The Laws of Imitation. New York: Henry Holt. Tungate, M. 2012. Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani to Zara. 3rd Edition. London: Kogan Page. Veblen, T. 1899. The Theory of the Leisure Class. New York: Macmillan Company. Webb, C. 2018. Cornelia Webb Jewellery Instagram bio. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/corneliawebbjewellery/?hl=en WGSN Insider. 2016. H&M x Kenzo Collaboration: Demand crashes website. [Online]. [Accessed 20/3/18]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/hm-and-kenzo-sales-demand-crasheswebsite/ WGSN. 2017. Women's Accessories, Footwear & Jewellery Forecast A/W 18/19: The Thinker. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/70170/page/2 WGSN. 2017b. Women's Accessories, Footwear & Jewellery Forecast A/W 18/19: HumaNature. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsn-com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/70504/page/10 Yotka, S. 2016. The Kenzo x H&M Runway Show Proves Fashion Can Be Fun. [Online]. [Accessed 20/3/18]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/article/2016-hm-kenzo-collaboration-fashionshow Young, S. 2016. Kenzo X H&M Arrival Marked with Overnight Queues, Extortionate Ebay Lots and Technical Difficulties. [Online]. [Accessed 20/3/18]. Available from: https://www.independent.co.uk/ life-style/fashion/kenzo-hm-collaboration-collection-launch-ebay-a7395366.html
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FIGURES LIST
Front cover: Hallmark Creative UK. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/516154807287264354/ Figure 1: : H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/hm/hm-ontrend/ Figure 2: : H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/hm/hm-ontrend/ Figure 3: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/hm/hmspringsummer-fashion/ Figure 4: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/hm/hmspringsummer-fashion/ Figure 5: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 6: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 7: H&M. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/life/fashion/ the-circus/inside-the-kenzo-x-h-m-event.html Figure 8: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 9: Kenzo X H&M. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https://www.gathernomoss.com/ blog/2016/11/3/studio-crush-kenzo-x-hm Figure 10: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 11: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 12: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 13: Oliver Hadlee Pearch for H&M. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https:// www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/the-kenzo-x-hm-collaboration-look-book-has-landed-a3365356.html Figure 14: Grazia Daily. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: https://graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/ news/kenzo-x-hm-collaboration/ Figure 15: H&M. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/life/fashion/ the-circus/inside-the-kenzo-x-h-m-event.html Figure 16: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 21/3/18]. Available from: http://www.mybag.com/blog/ fashion/the-cornelia-webb-ss18-lookbook/ Figure 17: Emma Hill. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/p/ Bhb4Fm0DXeA/?taken-by=emmahill Figure 18: Emma Hill. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://ejstyle.co.uk/2018/04/whyyou-should-be-wearing-linen.html/ Figure 19: Emma Hill. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://ejstyle.co.uk/2018/01/ jewellery-favourites.html/ Figure 20: Emma Hill. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/ emmahill/
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Figure 21: Emma Hill. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23/4/18]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/ emmahill/ Figure 22: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0532954002.html Figure 23: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0550021002.html Figure 24: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0639353001.html Figure 25: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0368350004.html
Figure 26: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0585924001.html Figure 27: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0608805001.html Figure 28: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0649915001.html
Figure 29: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ productpage.0642906001.html Figure 30: H&M. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 23/4/18]. Available from: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/life/fashion/ editors-picks/current-crush--maxi-earrings.html Figure 31: Zara. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/gold-leafearrings-p04319018.html?v1=6115038&v2=1023622 Figure 32: Zara. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/transparentstone-earrings-p04319026.html?v1=6092356&v2=589501 Figure 33: New Look. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.newlook.com/uk/ womens/accessories/jewellery/silver-abstract-pearl-necklace/p/575331892?comp=Browse Figure 34: Topshop. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 2/3/18]. Available from: http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/ product/bags-accessories-1702216/jewellery-469/cage-cuff-bracelet-7420457?bi=0&ps=20
Figure 35: . [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: Figure 36: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 21/3/18]. Available from: http://www.mybag.com/blog/ fashion/the-cornelia-webb-ss18-lookbook/ Figure 37: [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: Figure 38: . [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: Figure 39: .WGSN. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70504/page/10 Figure 40: . WGSN. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70504/page/10
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Figure 41: WGSN. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/image_viewer/#/image.26335080/set/%5B%22image.25766128%22,%22image. 25841854%22,%22image.26335069%22,%22image.26335080%22,%22image.25371279%22%5D Figure 42: WGSN. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/image_viewer/#/image.26335080/set/%5B%22image.25766128%22,%22image. 25841854%22,%22image.26335069%22,%22image.26335080%22,%22image.25371279%22%5D
Figure 43: WGSN. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from:https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70504/page/9 Figure 44: WGSN. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from:https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70504/page/9 Figure 45: WGSN. 2018. Collar. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/8 Figure 46: Marni. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/b565aac935e97157eb2b5f29117abf77/collar Figure 47: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/copy-of-molded-collarbones-cutout-necklace-gold-plated Figure 48: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/14/18]. Available from: http:// www.corneliawebb.com/product/molded-organic-2-finger-ring-925 Figure 49: Alexis Mabille. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/dc340b325736447f28ba77c73779c3c9 Figure 50: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/7c7d1074afe3e8851e3dabee186de46f/ring Figure 51: Valentino. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/927b8c99943391560a981b39b129a3be Figure 52: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/molded-organic-hinge-earring-s-gold-plated Figure 53: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/805b226f8f8b9eb98e0a01eadf3a56f9 Figure 54: Loewe. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/15 Figure 55: Cornelia webb. 2018 [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/stoned-open-cuff-m-silver-plated Figure 56: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/a09e6de7638fb26200c38ec725ffd1eb Figure 57: Lemaire. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/13 Figure 58: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/stoned-necklace-m Figure 59: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4/lariat Figure 60: Chanel. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/4
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Figure 61: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/molded-organic-drop-earring-l-gold-plated Figure 62: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/6e9a428c3865660628ffafaeba3a3997 Figure 63: Chanel. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/927b8c99943391560a981b39b129a3be/pearl Figure 64: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/pearled-hoop-earring-m-silver-plated Figure 65: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/eb9771563453d3e41a570668dd820646/pearl Figure 66: Elie Saab. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/3cc50c05ec1c83a7734c4ae56a8186d9/pearl|elie%20saab Figure 67: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/product/refined-pearl-single-ring Figure 68: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4/pearl|ring Figure 69: Coach. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/12 Figure 70: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/charmed-necklace-xs-silver-plated Figure 71: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/d182a94f4db0bb23ebefd713bb57a97b Figure 72: Coach. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/78030/page/3 Figure 73: Cornelia Webb. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http://www.corneliawebb.com/ product/stoned-reversible-stud-earring-xs-silver-plated Figure 74: WGSN. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: https://0-www-wgsncom.wam.leeds.ac.uk/library/results/eb9771563453d3e41a570668dd820646 Figure 75: H&M. 2018. Edited by Tansey, H. 2018 [Online]. [Accessed 27/4/18]. Available from: Figure 76: Vogue. 2018. Edited by Tansey, H. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 27/4/18]. Available from: Figure 77: Hammer. 2016. Edited by Tansey, H. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 27/4/18]. Available from: https:// hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2016/still-life-with-fish-photography-from-the-collection/ Figure 78: Laura Summers. 2017. Edited by Tansey, H. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 27/4/18]. Available from: https://www.laurasummers.co.uk/2017/09/21/daisy-london-little-star-bracelet-100-years-of-watch-fashion-withbrowns-family-jewellers/ Figure 79: The Studio. 2018. Edited by Tansey, H. 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/18]. Available from: http:// the-studio.se/work/hm-accessories/
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APPENDICES
APPENDIX 1: H&M IN-STORE OBSERVATIONS Trinity Leeds, Leeds Saturday 18th March 2018 14:00 - 14:45
Approx. age
Children (with guardian s)
13 - 18
8
Count
18-25
10
25-40
30
40-55
18
55+
12
6
Extra info: 
 Ethnicities of people shopping include: White, Asian (inc Middle East and Arabic), Black. Factors to consider: It was a weekend, so it was fairly busy meaning it was easy to miscount. Guessing ages is interpretable, so these are approximates. The Mall at Cribbs Causeway, Bristol Wednesday 28th March 2018 15:05 - 15:30 Ethnicities of people shopping include: White, Black, Asian (inc Far East).
Approx. age
Count
Children (with guardian s)
13 - 18
6
18-25
11
25-40
18
40-55
7
55+
5
Factors to consider:
 It was the Easter Holidays so children and teenagers were off school and shopping with parents or friends. It was a weekday and during normal working hours so less people of working age will have been shopping at this time. Again, guessing ages is interpretable, so these are approximates.
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6
APPENDIX 2: H&M AND KENZO BRAND IDENTITY PRISMS (KAPFERER, 2012)
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APPENDIX 3: CORNELIA WEBB BRAND IDENTITY PRISM (KAPFERER, 2012)
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