Hong Kong Family Traveller Summer 2019 by Asia Family Traveller

Dive

into summer!

Hong Kong Family Traveller 1

2 Hong Kong Family Traveller

Hello

from the editor’s desk

OUR TEAM Editor Carolynne Dear

Contributing Editor Adele Brunner

Art Director Anna Schulteisz

Online hongkongfamilytraveller.com Facebook @HongKongFamilyTraveller Instagram @hktravellingmum Twitter @family_kong

Hong Kong Family Traveller is published bi-monthly by Penn & Ink Communications Limited. The content provided here is the property of Penn & Ink Communications Limited and no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the Publisher. While the editors do their best to verify information published, Penn & Ink Communications Limited, its editors and its writers do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. The information provided by Penn & Ink Communications Limited’s contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the company. The information here is provided in good faith but Penn & Ink Communications Limited bears no responsibility or liability for any recommendations or advice offered.

elcome to our Summer issue! It gives me great pleasure to be sitting here writing an editor’s letter for a second time. We have been blown away with the reception Hong Kong Family Traveller has received. It seems an awful lot of you enjoy reading about travel, which is great because we thoroughly enjoy writing about it. Of course at this time of year we are now into major holiday territory, with a substantial number of you about to jet off for the summer. With longer-haul flights in mind, we’ve jumped out of Asia for some travel updates from further afield. Check out Kate Farr’s fabulous guide to

London and Paris on page 36 and my own review of the Italian lakes on page 52. Holidays, of course, are meant to be fun and we hope Hong Kong Family Traveller has inspired you. But on a more sober note, we have also taken a look this issue at the not-so-fabulous side of tourism - that of animal cruelty. In the news back in May was the incredibly sad tale of a baby elephant who died after breaking both of its legs performing tricks to tourists in Thailand. Author and

conservationist Nashua Gallagher has been on the trail seeking out the region’s ‘real’ sanctuaries on page 56, with lots of tips for enjoying Asia’s elephants in a more humane way. And with competitions, giveaways and heaps of news from across the region, all that’s left for me to do is to wish you a very happy - and safe - summer, wherever you may be travelling to. Bon voyage!

Contributors

THERESA BRISCOE

NASHUA GALLAGHER

KATE FARR

Travel photographer Theresa introduces us to Bhutan, page 64.

Author Nashua Gallagher looks into Asia’s elephant tourist industry, page 56.

Freelancer Kate popped over to Europe, page 36.

Where are you heading this summer? It’s Italy with the family for the majority of the holidays - a week in Puglia relaxing, a week in Sicily touring, five days in Cinque Terre and a stopover to do an ANZAC tour of northern France. @travful_life

Where are you heading this summer? We are looking forward to a Hong Kong staycation for the family, with lots planned to keep the kids busy. And I also have a whirlwind, 72 hours at a wedding in Istanbul to look forward to. @adashofnashandeverythingelse

Where are you heading this summer? I’ll be taking my children to my parents’ home in rural Normandy. They’ll be treeclimbing and lake-swimming - while I appreciate the walletfriendly French wine! @katefarrwrites Hong Kong Family Traveller 3

CONTENTS

REGULARS

On the cover

Welcome to our second issue where we’ll be diving into an underwater, fishy world in The Philippines. Kids are able to don a scuba pack from the age of ten and we follow the adventures of one family and their quest for PADI certification.

In The Loop

Keep up-to-date with what’s new on the travel scene

Weather Watch

Where to head and where to avoid in Asia this summer

On Our Radar

What we’re excited about this season

Tech-on-the-move

Need advice about travelling with kids? Ask our expert

Reading Matter

Great books for lounger lizards

Wish You Were Here

Top tips for the best of New York

Dining Adventures

Honing in on Hong Kong’s top tables

Grown-up Getaways

Getting to grips with Bhutan by bus

Hong Kong Travelling Mum

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Keeping up with the kids

IN THIS ISSUE FEATURES 24

Hot & Happening

Focus - Singapore

The world’s best swimming holes

Getting the best out of the Lion City

Club Med

Hot in the city

The best of London and Paris this summer

Camp it up

Excellent adventures now school’s out

Dive in

Exploring The Philippines with a scuba pack

Watery views

Ele-friendly

Takeaways this issue

Big news for families

Summer | 2019

Exploring the Italian lakes

How to ‘do’ elephant-tourism humanely

David Beckham is now a hotel interiors designer. Find out how he’s dressing up The Londoner Macao on page 7. There’s a new podcast especially for parents travelling with children. It launches this summer, log-on on page 17. Want to see swim overlooking one of the world’s busiest runways? All the latest about JFK’s newest hotel opening on page 27. Sentosa Island is expanding two new ‘worlds’ at Universal Studios are just the beginning. Turn to page 30. It might look like fun, but bathing with elephants - even at a ‘sanctuary’ - is a no-no. Find out why on page 56.

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Giveaway

WIN

a weekend for four at Baan Ora Chon, Chai Talay Estate, Ko Samui, Thailand!

Chai Talay Estate and Hong Kong Family Traveller have partnered to offer this fabulous prize, including: • Two nights’ accommodation, including airport transfers and daily breakfast for four people, valid until October 20, 2019. • The winner may extend their stay and invite up to four other friends (two rooms), for a 30% discount off website rates. For rates and villa descriptions see chaitalay.com Part of the Chai Talay Estate, Baan Ora Chon is a 5* beachfront villa located on the white sandy beach of Lipa Noi, Ko Samui. Guests at Baan Ora Chon have full access to an on-site world-class training gym, a ten-metre pool, kayaks, paddle-boarding, organic gardens and more. The villa staff and dedicated chef will be on-hand to make your stay unforgettable and delicious food can be prepared at local cost! Cocktails by the pool, massages in the sala, beach volleyball and kayaking at sunset make Chai Talay Estate the perfect destination for families.

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Double your chances of winning by signing up hongkongfamilytraveller.com AND by ‘liking’ Chai Talay Retreats at facebook.com/chaitalayretreats *Competition closes on July 31. The winner will be announced in the Autumn issue of Hong Kong Family Traveller, published on September 1. *Please read the full Terms & Conditions when you sign up.

To enter, sign up at hongkongfamilytraveller.com

TRAVEL NEWS 06

Capri bans single-use plastic from its shores this summer in a clean-up campaign

David Beckham makes an entry in Macau at the launch of the new Londoner Macao hotel

Legoland Malaysia launches a third park and a special deal for Hong Kong visitors

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I N T H E K NOW

LUXE HOMESTAYS IN US AND EUROPE

A Marriott homestay in the Caribbean

Marriott International has launched Homes & Villas by Marriott, a home rental initiative with a portfolio of 2,000 luxury properties located in more than 100 destinations throughout the US, Europe, Latin America and the Caribbean. The homes have been curated for their family-hosting potential, with multiple bedrooms, large kitchens and in-unit laundry. The initiative has been launched in conjunction with property management companies already managing the homes and villas. Guests can expect to receive a professionally cleaned home, 24/7 support, high speed Wi-Fi, premium linens and

amenities and family-friendly conveniences upon request. Think four-bedroom cottage in six private acres of California’s wine country, or an oceanfront villa in Anguilla with private beach, butler and house staff, or perhaps an 18th century Irish castle that sleeps 17 with a private lake for boating and fishing. Marriott says it is hoping to extend Homes & Villas into additional markets in time, as well as increase the number of properties offered. Marriott Bonvoy members will be able to collect and redeem points on booking. homesandvillasbymarriott.com

NEW HOTEL ON HORIZON FOR TUNG CHUNG Tung Chung is set to welcome a brand new hotel this autumn. MGallery by Sofitel will debut on what is Hong Kong’s largest outlying island in the second half of the year, with the boutique Silveri MGallery by Sofitel. The new hotel will form part of the Citygate integrated project and takes its name from the silver mines that were abundant on Lantau in the late 1800s. Making the most of the emerald green mountains of the island, the hotel’s signature suites will offer outdoor terraces with private plunge pools or Jacuzzis overlooking the green hills.

Further facilities will include a Garden Lawn, bar and restaurants. The hotel will also be launching curated experiences, including private boat trips with Champagne and canapes, pink dolphin spotting and guided tours of Lantau’s Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery. The hotel has also revealed, rather intriguingly, that it will be offering a range of ‘activities and amenities tailored to female travellers’. We will, of course, keep you updated as more information comes through. accorhotels.com

Outdoor living on Lantau

CAPRI PLASTIC BAN

Capri is cleaning up

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The Italian island of Capri has banned all forms of single-use plastic that aren’t biodegradable. The measures, which were introduced in May, mean tourists will face fines of up to Euro 500 if caught bringing plastic bags, plates or cutlery onto the island. More than two million tourists flock to Capri each year and the island is said to be struggling to

manage the rubbish they leave behind. The sale of mineral water in plastic bottles will still be allowed, but according to the island’s mayor, by next summer that too will be outlawed. The nearby mainland region of Puglia will also be halting sales of single-use plastic on its beaches this summer.

I N T H E K NOW

David Beckham is set to help launch Macau’s latest hotel

LONDONER PULLS INTO MACAU David Beckham has unveiled the latest big name hotel to arrive in Hong Kong’s neighbouring Special Administrative Region. The Londoner Macao will soon be joining The Venetian and The Parisian as part of the Sands’ group Cotai Strip integrated resort. The resort project will open progressively during 2020 and 2021 and will include four hotel brands - the new Londoner Hotel (previously Holiday Inn Macao Cotai Central) alongside existing

hotels Conrad Macao, Cotai Central, Sheraton Grand Macao Hotel and The St Regis Macao. “The Venetian and The Parisian have each become ‘must-see’ destinations on the Cotai Strip and we have every confidence that The Londoner will be every bit their equal,” said Las Vegas Sands president and chief operating officer, Robert Goldstein, at the launch in May. Sands has collaborated with David Beckham on the project; the sporting celebrity and Sands Resort Macao global ambassador will be working with the interior design team on the exclusive top

floor suites of The Londoner. The hotel will also feature recreations of classic British landmarks, with an exterior facade modelled on the world-famous Palace of Westminster and The Houses of Parliament, complete with 96-metre Elizabeth Tower and clock face. Inside, the property will boast a ‘Crystal Palace’ atrium centrepiece, restaurants, retail spaces and entertainment. The more than 20 dining options will include a British-style gastropub by Gordon Ramsay. New entertainment at The Londoner Macao will include a whole-body,

fully immersive live virtual reality experience suitable for all ages, British-themed Streetmosphere shows, such as the famous changing of the guard, and daily retail parades featuring ‘characters from British history, culture and literature’. “I can’t wait to welcome everyone to come and experience what we’re creating here,” said Beckham, who hails from the East London district of Leytonstone. “A little bit of London in Macau.” sandsmacao.com

Enjoy Exclusive Benefits AT THE FINEST HOTELS IN THE WORLD

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I N T H E K NOW

SUMMER NIGHTS LONDON-SIDE Glam-up a stay in London at the Belmond Cadogan Hotel, which opened earlier this year in London’s upmarket Chelsea district. Following a multi-million pound renovation, the Sloane Street property now offers 54 rooms and suites, many with leafy views over Cadogan Place Gardens. The hotel’s colourful past embraces intrigue and scandal as it played host to the cream of English society, including supermodels, artists and writers - Oscar Wilde was famously arrested there. The redesigned hotel embraces its glamorous past with antique artefacts placed alongside bespoke furnishings and more than 400 pieces of original artwork produced predominantly by British artists. Quirky touches include a peacock called Oscar, glittering with thousands of Swarovski diamonds standing in the entrance to the private dining room. The menu showcases the best of British, while the bar serves classic cocktails, Champagnes and whisky. Afternoon tea can be enjoyed throughout the day in the Tea Lounge. Deluxe rooms start from £470 per night based on two people sharing. belmond.com

FAMILY FUN ON MALAYSIA’S DESARU COAST PURPLE REIGN IN TIN HAU Boutique Hotel Purple has opened in Hong Kong Island, occupying a former residential tower in the bustling district of Tin Hau. Its 83 ensuite and three family rooms are arranged over 24 floors, along with a lounge and an outdoor terrace. A range of board games has thoughtfully been included in the communal areas. Further facilities include a gym located across the road that hotel guests are able to use free-of-charge. Every room has wireless chargers and there are ChargeSpot power banks and adaptors throughout the hotel. The hotel is ideally situated in what is a vibrant local neighbourhood; it’s just minutes from Tin Hau MTR, Victoria Park and a short stroll from Causeway Bay. Tram and airport bus stops are just steps away from the hotel’s main entrance. The property has positioned itself as a stop for independent travellers, although it would work equally well for family members stopping off in Hong Kong for a visit. Ascottchina.com A family suite at Hotel Purple

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The Westin Desaru Coast Resort has now opened on Malaysia’s southern coast. The 275-room property is part of the new Desaru Coast development, a holiday and event ‘destination’ featuring an adventure waterpark and two championship-level golf courses. The Desaru Coast lies 80kms from Johor’s Senai International Airport and just over 100kms from Changi International Airport in Singapore. A Senai-Desaru Expressway has recently been completed, cutting the journey-time from Johor to just one hour and one-and-a-half hours from Singapore. Westin’s beachfront property integrates inspiration from the ocean, with bright and airy sea-facing rooms that enjoy sweeping views over the South China Sea. The family-friendly resort has kept kids in mind, with an outdoor pool and Westin Family Kids Club. If you’re looking for time out, the Heavenly Spa by Westin features a full treatment menu as well as hydrothermal pools to relieve weary muscles. Restaurant options include Seasonal Tastes all-day dining, The Beach Bar for cocktails and light bites on the beach, Italian fine dining restaurant Prego, MIX lobby lounge for afternoon tea and Splash pool bar. westindesaru.com

...Revivo Wellness Resort (pictured above) in Bali’s Nusa Dua area in the south of the island is offering a ‘Sleep Your Way To Happiness’ retreat. The six-night retreat is led by a sleep expert and is tailored for each guest. Also included are two private consultations and daily group lectures. ‘Sleep Your Way To Happiness’ runs from July 14-20. revivoresorts.com

Legoland Malaysia Resort has opened Sea Life Malaysia, an interactive Lego-themed aquarium next door to the main resort. To celebrate the launch, the resort is offering a special summer holiday promotion for guests from Hong Kong - an additional day pass for free from June 10 - for the price of a one-day triple-park pass, families will be able to enjoy the resort for two days. The three parks include Legoland Theme Park, Legoland Water Park and the new Sea Life Malaysia park. The aquarium meets international Sea Life brand standards and it’s hoped it will offer guests a “fun and educational experience”. Legoland Malaysia can be reached from Hong Kong by flying to Senai Airport, Johor, via Kuala Lumpur International Airport. For travellers staying in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore there are direct buses available at HK$108 per person and HK$138 per person respectively. legoland.com.my

MUMBAI EN ROUTE

...Sheraton Hong Kong is offering a family staycation package at its Nathan Road property. Book the Stay & Savour Package between now and December 31, 2019 and enjoy a suite with rollaway bed for the kids and $500 worth of dining credits to use in the hotel’s six restaurants. Guests will also receive 50% off a Hong Kong Orientation Tour. sheratonhongkonghotel.com ...London’s Mandarin Oriental has reopened following a £100 million renovation. The 181-room property closed mid-way through renovation following a fire last June, but is now back in the game and boasting the capital’s most expensive hotel suite - the penthouse will set you back a cool £42,000 per night, about HK$428,000. mandarinoriental.com ...Hong Kong’s Ladies Recreation Club in Mid-levels is now a collection point for unwanted and unopened hotel and inflight toiletries. The initiative has been set up by The Amber Foundation - unwanted kits are repurposed and redistributed to the homeless and refugees. For a full list of collection points, see facebook.com/theamberfoundation.

SpiceJet Airways is set to open a new flight between Hong Kong and Mumbai (pictured). At time of going to press, the route was on track to launch at the end of May. The no-frills carrier started a non-stop, daily route between Hong Kong and Delhi in November 2018. However, this service has been plagued with glitches - according to data published by FlightRadar24, of 146 flights between November and April this year, only two flights arrived on schedule. Time will tell if the Mumbai link enjoys better statistics. spicejet.com Hong Kong Family Traveller 11

I N T H E K NOW

In brief...

LEGOLAND MALAYSIA ALL AT SEA

I N T H E K NOW Le Meridien is offering a fun staycation package for young families

SUMMER IN THE CITY Le Meridien Cyberport has launched two staycation packages just in time for the long summer holidays. The school break can take some filling and a change of scene - while not having to step on a plane - is sometimes just what the doctor ordered. Whether you want to enjoy that scene-change with or without the children (and let’s face it, we all deserve a break when school’s out) is up to you, as the hotel is offering two packages. Happy Child, Happy Family is a family-oriented package, while the regular staycation is just for adults. Le Meridien is located on Hong Kong Island’s southside, just at the point where the concrete starts to give way to the green and leafy suburbs. It’s close enough to Central to be considered an ‘urban’ resort, but far enough away to make it feel like you’ve escaped the madness. The hotel enjoys sweeping views over Telegraph Bay as well as the forested backdrop of Pok Fu Lam Reservoir and Victoria Peak, and many of the Island’s most popular hiking trails are right on the doorstep. The hotel is adjacent to southside’s ‘creative digital city’ of Cyberport and benefits from the grassy lawns and parks that were built to enhance the office and retail complex. There’s plenty of space for the kids to gambole while parents enjoy just one more cappuccino on the breakfast terrace. And if little legs need to be stretched further, Cyberport waterside park is just a short stroll away. All 170 guest rooms enjoy floor-to-ceiling glass windows to make the most of the water and garden views. And for the family-friendly Happy Child, Happy Family staycation package, rooms will also include a fun tent for children to sleep in, plus a surprise welcome pack. The hotel also boasts an outdoor swimming pool, five restaurants and bars with multiple alfresco dining options. These include contemporary Japanese specialist Unami, Cantonese restaurant Nam Fong and the relaxed all-day dining venue Prompt which also serves up a Champagne Sunday brunch. 12 Hong Kong Family Traveller

EXPLORING THE LOCAL AREA Head over to Cyberport waterfront park for a stroll. It’s minutes from Le Meridien hotel and from dogs to boats, there’s always plenty of action - as well as a small play area. Catch a cab to Pok Fu Lam Riding Stables. From there, follow the path to the reservoir. Littlies love to count the turtles, but if you’ve got more energy, carry on walking and head up to the Peak. Catch a movie at the theatre in Cyberport Arcade. The cinema is located on the ground floor with a kiosk selling popcorn and drinks. cinema.com.hk Check out historic house Bethanie on Pok Fu Lam Road. Built in 1875 by French missionaries, it’s now a Grade II listed building with guided tours. hkapa.com Go for a wander along the easy 3.5km walk from Cyberport waterfront park to Aberdeen Promenade, passing Waterfall Bay and A Sky Full of Gods and Buddhas - a colourful collection of deities concreted into the rocks. The Happy Child, Happy Family package includes one night’s accommodation in a Smart Room, a fun, child-friendly room setup and surprise welcome package, breakfast buffet for three people at Prompt (two adults and one child under 12 years), late check-out until 2pm and kids under 12 eat free when they dine at Prompt. For adults looking for some time away, the Staycation Package includes one night in a Smart Room, a Tesla Hong Kong Island pick-up, buffet breakfast at Prompt, welcome patisseries, complimentary bottle of sparkling wine and a $200 food and beverage credit redeemable in the hotel restaurants. marriott.com

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I N T H E K NOW 14 Hong Kong Family Traveller

S I H A NO UKVI L L E

CAMBODIAN ADVENTURES AirAsia has announced it will be launching flights between Bangkok and Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern coast this July. The Bangkok to Sihanoukville flight will run four times a week beginning July 1. The seaside town of Sihanoukville (pictured) is a jumping off point for many luxury resorts that have started to open up in the area, as well as the resort islands of Koh Rong. The carrier opened up its Sihanoukville route with an inaugural flight from Kuala Lumpur in August 2017. airasia.com

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I N T H E K NOW 16 Hong Kong Family Traveller

Vivid Sydney, an annual festival of light, music and creative ideas, returns to the Australian city of Sydney for its eleventh year. The event embraces stunning light installations, live musical performances and ideasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; exchange via public talks and debates. Sydney and its landmarks will be creatively lit up, including Circular Quay (pictured here), the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge, Darling Harbour and Taronga Zoo. The event runs until June 15. vividsydney.com

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SYDNE Y

SYDNEY STUNNER

WE AT H E R

Asia weather watch

Brolly or bikini? What to pack this summer Cambodia

Hong Kong

Rain sweeps across the country in June; on the plus side this does mean lower humidity. The wet conditions continue throughout July and August, with the highest rainfall in August.

This is Hong Kong’s summer season and the heat becomes more intense throughout June and into July and August, as temperatures soar into the 30s. June is one of the wettest months and by August the typhoon season is starting to set-in.

Central Vietnam hits peak heat in June and is also dry. Expect rain in the south, north and northern mountains. For July and August it’s a similar story, although by the end of August rainfall will start to increase in the centre of the country.

Similar to Cambodia, rain engulfs the country in June. Expect short, sharp showers in the north but longer spells in the south. July and August are the wettest months, with a high probability of heavy daily showers by August.

The Philippines

Singapore

Malaysia

Thailand

June sees the rains set in, beginning in the north and making their way south by the end of the month. In July, typhoon season is also beginning. Heavy rain continues throughout July and into August.

June and July are Singapore’s high season with slightly less rain than the winter months. Temperatures are a little higher moving into late August, although Singapore weather remains fairly constant throughout the year - expect temperatures between 25 and 33 and the occasional shower.

The east coast (think Tioman Island and Perhentian Islands) continues to enjoy the sunshine in June, while the west coast (Penang and Langkawi) experiences high humidity and heavy downpours. It’s a similar story in July and August, considered Malaysia’s peak months for tourism.

The rainy season begins in June with Phuket experiencing heavy downpours and high humidity. The east coast, including Koh Samui, is more likely to remain sunny and dry. Temperatures ease a little in July and August but these months also cop the heaviest rainfall.

Indonesia

Vietnam

Laos

Sri Lanka Indonesia is a good escape from the rain in the rest of Southeast Asia at this time of year, with plenty of dry and sunny weather. It’s also a good time to dive if you’re heading for Komodo National Park or the Gili Islands. The beach-friendly weather continues into July and August, leading to peak visitor numbers.

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The best of the beach weather is to be found in the north during June, while the southern and western coastal areas and Tea Country are dominated by the summer monsoon. By July, the monsoon should begin to ease off in the south and the north continues to enjoy the sunshine. The rain drops off again in August, with temperatures of around 30 degrees in coastal areas.

Brit make-up guru Charlotte Tilbury has launched the ideal travel companion for your summer hols. The compact Glogasm Face Pallette is a handy, all-in-one highlight, blush and bronze palette - swipe cheeks and eyes for an instant tanned glow. $670 from Charlotte Tilbury beauty counters at Lane Crawford ifc mall, Times Square and Canton Road.

Hong Kong fashion brand Tove & Libra has launched a women’s collection of lightweight tops and dresses made from breathable material to counter Hong Kong’s heat. The mix ‘n’ match collection also makes for holiday essentials. The pieces are made from repurposed threads, previously destined for landfill. toveandlibra.com

Have dad cut a swathe on the beach this summer in French-designed Debayn swim trunks. The tailored shorts are made using four-way stretch, breathable fabrics that dry in minutes. They also come with removable waterproof pockets so you can swim with your phone. US$95, for Hong Kong stockists see debayn.com

Macau welcomes the dramatic Fuerza Bruta Wayra at MGM Theatre this summer. The unconventional ‘theatre party’ experience has toured all over the world. Meaning ‘brute force’ in Spanish, Fuerza Bruta debuted in 2005 in Buenos Aires to rapt reviews. What’s special about it? There is no seating and the audience takes centre stage to interact with performers. Children must be aged over 13 years. June 14 - August 4. tickets.mgm.mo

Plunge into the world of Alice in Wonderland at ‘Wonderland’, an interactive exhibition hosted by Singapore’s ArtScience Museum. The exhibition is divided into ten sections inspired by the chapters of the book, each with bespoke digital activities. Also view first edition books, drawings and original costumes. SGD$54 for a family ticket (two adults & two children). Until September 22. marinabaysands.com

Plug-in to City Travel with Kids, a new podcast from the team at Little City Trips. The series of family travel-based interviews is packed with info about how to navigate city breaks around the world with kids in tow. Available on iTunes, Stitcher and Google Play. littlecitytrips.com

Head over to Macau for the fun See.Saw.Zine exhibition in Taipa Village. Zines are selfpublished, handmade magazines and Hong Kong artists were invited by Taipa Village Cultural Association to collaborate for the project. Our favourite read was the imaginative ‘Amazing Rainbow Facts’. Bring the kids and get inspired. Free, 12-8pm, until July 12. taipavillagemacau.org.mo

Travel planning calls for caffeine - and plenty of it. Nespresso has launched Essenza Plus, a family-sized machine with a larger capsule container for bigger households. (And there’s a hot water-only option for tea lovers). It’s available from Hong Kong’s Nespresso boutiques priced $1,788.

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H OT L I ST

On our radar this summer...

Don’t take off without an up-to-speed set of headphones

The travel sage Travel blogger Marianne Rogerson delves into the world of kids’ travel tech

Q&A 20 Hong Kong Family Traveller

DEAR MARIANNE Headphones for kids on long-haul - what’s the solution?

I’m pleased you’ve asked as I’ve done a lot of research into this lately! The important thing to note when looking for headphones for kids is that they need to be volume-limiting. According to the World Health Organisation (WHO), more than one billion teenagers and young

adults are at risk of developing hearing loss due to the unsafe use of personal audio devices and exposure to damaging levels of sound in noisy entertainment venues. WHO estimates that 50% of people aged from 12 to 35 years in middle- and high-

BACKGROUND NOISE ON FLIGHTS MEAN KIDS ARE OFTEN BLISSFULLY UNAWARE THAT THEIR VOLUME SETTING IS TOO HIGH

over price. Using headphones that cut out background noise can also reduce the need to turn-up the volume, so if your budget will stretch to it, I’d recommend selecting noisecancelling too. I would also consider opting for wireless headphones. Interestingly, Bluetooth volume control is more reliable than wired. Also, given that the latest iPhones no longer have headphone sockets, there is a good chance that other technology will follow and that wired headphones will end up needing an adapter anyway. Most wireless headphones come with a cable that you can use for the inflight entertainment system.

DEAR MARIANNE I’d love my kids to keep a travel journal this summer. Is there an app for that?

This is a great question as I’ve tried and failed to get my kids to keep a journal on every trip we’ve done! Given how much time they spend on their iPads, I do think an app could be the way to go. The best one I have come across is Day One. This is an easy-to-use journal app that allows you to add photos, videos and audio recordings to your entries. You can also draw pictures with your finger on the iPad or iPhone, which is a nice touch for kids. The app will also automatically add metadata to your entries, such

as location, time and weather. Another feature that I love about this app is that you can order printed books once your journal is complete. The free version of Day One only allows you to create one journal on one device and add just one photo per day. If you’re willing to upgrade to the premium version (US$34.99 per year), you can benefit from multiple journals synced between your devices, which makes sense for a family. Plus there’s the ability to upload multiple photos per entry. If you have small kids who

need a little more direction, take a look at Grid Diary. The diary app presents you with eight question prompts laid out in a one-page grid to guide young children. The beauty of this app is that parents can design their own templates with customised question prompts. Grid Diary is a much cheaper option than Day One, with the pro version a US$4.99 one-time purchase. This gives you multiple photos, customizable fonts, password protection and syncing capability.

MARIANNE ROGERSON Mum-of-two Marianne Rogerson is a travel blogger and author and has lived all over the world. If you have a question, email her at hello@mariannerogerson.com. Follow her adventures at mumonthemove.com

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TRAVEL ADVICE

income countries listen to unsafe levels of sound through personal audio devices. These are pretty frightening statistics. Kids are often not aware when the volume is too loud and don’t realise the long-term damage they can do. For this reason, the majority of kidfriendly headphones limit the volume to the recommended 85dB. However, you will find that some headphones allow the volume to be raised to 92dB in order for devices to be heard in noisy environments - such as aeroplanes. The general consensus is that the better the quality of sound from the headphones, the less need there is to turn up the volume. So go for sound quality

Holiday reads for kids Wanderlust-inspired books to tuck into tiny travel-packs this summer

Cinnamon Neil Gaiman The vividly illustrated fable of a princess called Cinnamon who lives in a hot country with mountains on one side and jungle on the other. Cinnamon is blind and refuses to talk and her parents, Rajah and Rani, who offer a reward to the person who can teach her to speak. People travel from far and wide to try, but nothing works. That is until a fierce tiger walks into the palace…

Everest: The Remarkable Story of Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay Alexandra Stewart Late in the morning of May 29, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the roof of the world - Everest. This is the story of how they battled freezing temperatures, tumbling ice rocks, powerful winds and death-defying ridges to summit the world’s highest mountain. Sir Ranulph Fiennes has written the foreword in a book published just in time to celebrate the centenary year of Edmund Hillary’s birth.

It’s Your World Now Barry Falls A colourfully-illustrated celebration of the world and the potential of every child. Read this book out loud to help kids appreciate what’s around them and to understand the great things they can go out there and do. At the same there’s a dose of reality and the book does touch on the possibility of setbacks. But no matter what, “from your head down to your toe, no matter what I love you so.”

ACTIVITY BOOKS Flight School Mike Barfield Cartoonist Mike Barfield has created an activity book for kids who are fascinated by flight. It’s packed with exciting models of gliding plants, animals and aircraft that young readers can assemble and take to the skies. With loads of fun and amazing facts about flight and human aviation, children can learn all about the science and history behind the models as they construct them.

At The Seaside Activity Book Keep tiny travellers busy with more than 300 stickers and plenty of seaside-themed games, such as Sandcastle Maze and Shell-Spotting. There are quizzes, ‘top three’ lists and seaside stats that kids will love. A book that is perfect for keeping the ‘boreds’ at bay when you’re on-board.

Travel Puzzles for Clever Kids, Gareth Moore & Chris Dickason

Hummingbird Nicola Davies A nature storybook by awardwinning non-fiction author and zoologist, Nicola Davies, and illustrator Jane Ray. Every summer, hummingbirds that have spent the winter in the warmth of Mexico, fly north as far as Canada and Alaska. This is an incredible 2,000 mile trip made by a bird smaller than your thumb. The story tells the tale of the spring migration of a tiny bird and the people it meets along the way. 22 Hong Kong Family Traveller

In Focus: Forests

Collins Children’s Picture Atlas

Libby Walden

Collins Maps

Ten illustrators delve into the world’s woodlands in ten, forest-themed sections, each illustrated by a different artist. Creatures, cultures and conservation of the world’s forests are examined, with a call to (environmental) action to preserve our wooded environments. A supersized book with heaps of fascinating facts about the world’s forests.

A beautifully illustrated picture atlas that takes children on a journey around the world. It covers continents and countries with fun facts and exciting places to visit. The maps are colourfully and clearly designed with loads of accompanying information so kids can explore and discover more about the world. Perfect for mapping out this summer’s family adventure.

This is a follow-up to Brain Games for Clever Kids and is brimming with travel-themed logic puzzles to keep kids busy. From airport mazes and round-the-world logic games, to capital city conundrums and safari-themed sudoku, there’s plenty to keep young minds occupied while on-the-move.

Ocean Book Clare Beaton The world beneath the waves is a continual source of fascination for children. Beaton, a former BBC children’s television programme illustrator, shares her passion for nature and brings the ocean alive with craft activities, fun facts and healthy recipes.

Find a shady spot and escape with a good book City of Girls

Natalie Tan’s Book of Love and Fortune

Elizabeth Gilbert It’s the summer of 1940 and nineteen-yearold Vivian Morris arrives in New York with her suitcase and sewing machine. She soon finds gainful employment as the self-appointed seamstress at the Lily Playhouse. There, Vivian quickly becomes the toast of the showgirls, transforming the trash and tinsel only fit for the cheap seats into creations for goddesses. And when the legendary English actress Edna Watson comes to the Lily to star in the company’s most ambitious show ever, Vivian is entranced by the magic that follows in her wake. But there are hard lessons to be learned, and bitterly regrettable mistakes to be made. “At some point in a woman’s life,” Vivian confides, “She just gets tired of being ashamed all the time. After that, she is free to become whoever she truly is.” And so she sets forth her story.

Roselle Lim At the news of her mother’s death, Natalie Tan returns home. Natalie, now a chef, is shocked to discover the vibrant neighbourhood of San Francisco’s Chinatown that she remembers from her childhood is fading, with businesses failing and families moving out. She’s even more surprised to learn she has inherited her grandmother’s restaurant. The neighbourhood seer reads the restaurant’s fortune in the leaves: Natalie must cook three recipes from her grandmother’s cookbook to help her struggling neighbours before the restaurant will succeed. Natalie has no desire to help them; she resents the local shopkeepers for leaving her alone to take care of her agoraphobic mother when she was growing up. But soon she starts to realize that maybe her neighbors really have been there for her all along.

Big Sky

The Braid

Kate Atkinson

Laetitia Colombani

Celebrated author Kate Atkinson returns with one of her most popular creations, Jackson Brodie - exmilitary, ex-Cambridge Constabulary, now private investigator. Brodie has relocated to a quiet seaside village in North Yorkshire in the occasional company of his recalcitrant teenage son Nathan and ageing Labrador Dido. It’s a picturesque setting, but there’s something darker lurking behind the scenes. Jackson’s current job, gathering proof of an unfaithful husband for his suspicious wife, seems straightforward, but a chance encounter with a desperate man on a crumbling cliff leads him into a sinister network.

LANDMARK PRINCE’S Shop 326-328, 3/F Landmark Prince’s Building 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2522 1785

ifc MALL Shop 3092C, Podium Level 3 8 Finance Street, Central Tel: 2813 2770

EXCHANGE SQUARE Shop 305-07 One Exchange Square Central Tel: 2542 1133

LYNDHURST TERRACE Shop 1, G/F, 46 Lyndhurst Terrace Central Tel: 2970 3999

The tale of three women, Smita, Giulia and Sarah, on three continents. Three women with nothing in common, but nevertheless bound by courage. Indian Smita is an untouchable married to a ‘rat-hunter’. She is employed to clean the village latrines, as her mother before her. Her dream is to help her daughter escape the same fate, despite the odds stacked against her. In Sicily, Giulia works in her father’s wig workshop. When her father becomes the victim of a serious accident, she discovers her family has been living a lie. Sarah is a reputed lawyer in Canada. She is twice-divorced and a mother of three and works at breakneck speed. But as she is about to be promoted, she discovers she has breast cancer. Colombani carefully braids these women and their experiences.

THREE PACIFIC PLACE Shop 4, Level B3 Three Pacific Place Wan Chai Tel: 2997 3018

TIMES SQUARE Shop 925, 9/F Times Square Causeway Bay Tel: 2521 1649

REPULSE BAY G/F, Shop G107C-D The Repulse Bay Arcade Repulse Bay Tel: 2750 1136

DISCOVERY BAY Shop 104B, Block A 1/F, DB Main Plaza Lantau Island Tel: 2987 1373

FESTIVAL WALK Shop UG-46 80 Tat Chee Avenue Kowloon Tong Tel: 2808 1901

www.bookazine.com.hk Hong Kong Family Traveller 23

READING MATTER

Lounger living

NEW YO R K

Wish you were here Expat mum Natalie Beatty moved from Hong Kong to New York via Singapore. She reveals her top tips to enjoying a family-sized slice of the Big Apple Best place to stay Visitors don’t tend to realise just how big New York is until they visit. It’s the kind of place where you just can’t locate yourself close to everything. We live in Chelsea and I do think this is a great base. You can easily walk to the High Line (a one-and-a-half mile long elevated linear park created on a former New York Central Railroad spur), Meatpackers district, Chelsea markets and the Flatiron building. Best things to do with kids Walk the city! It’s huge and flat and with great food stops on every street. I like to walk with the kids and make the city come alive for them by pulling up pictures on my phone to show them what they are seeing in different time periods. I love historical research and I like to reinforce how old the city is. Best museums for kids The American Museum of Natural History can’t be beaten for dinosaur bones and lots of stuff they will recognise from the movie Night at the Museum. Best family show Broadway is our passion as a family and we enter online lotteries whenever we have a spare evening. We’ve managed to get some reasonably priced tickets this way - details at broadwayforbrokepeople.com. We’ve also splashed out and taken the kids to see Hamilton and Harry Potter and the Cursed Child. I’d recommend both. 24 Hong Kong Family Traveller

It’s a family affair - the Beatty’s on their New York front ‘stoop’

Best shopping haunts The Oculus at Westfield World Trade Center Mall is visually stunning - the wide range of stores include well-known high street favourites like Banana Republic, Cos, Forever 21, H&M, LK Bennett, Reiss and so on. The Bergdorf Goodman luxury department store on Fifth Avenue is fabulous for a highend browse. Strolling the streets of SOHO is the best place to seek out individual boutiques. And I also enjoy having a wander around The Strand bookstore. Best coffee shop The coffee has definitely improved since we first visited New York back in the day! There is now an Australian chain here called Bluestone Lane which is consistently good. They also

have lamingtons which are a big hit with the kids. Best family restaurant We’re working our way through a long list of pizza restaurants. Our favourites so far have been Artichoke, Lombardi’s and John’s of Bleecker Street. Best date-night restaurant We love Carbone. I feel as if Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack are about to walk in at any moment! Best bar I like destination bars. The King Cole Bar at the St Regis is great for a classic cocktail - but be warned that New York bartenders make them strong! We also really like the Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle Hotel for jazz and the artwork.

HOW TO GET THERE Cathay Pacific flies direct from Hong Kong to New York. The flight time is approximately 16 hours. cathaypacific.com

SP ON S ORE D F E AT U RE

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Hong Kong Family Traveller 25

H OT & H A PPE NI NG

Cool pools As the heat sets in, it’s the perfect time to take a dip. Here’s our round-up of some of the world’s most blissful bathing spots

HANGING GARDENS OF BALI In the heart of the Ubud jungle sits the stunning Hanging Gardens of Bali. The luxury hotel boasts perhaps one of the world’s most spectacular hotel pools, perched on a lush, orchid-strewn hillside. The cascading infinity-edged pool commands breathtaking views over the surrounding forests and the Ayung River below. The location may be remote, but it’s easily reached by the hotel’s shuttle from Ubud, nine miles away. Lie back and soak up the Indiana Jones-style scenery. hanginggardensofbali.com 26 Hong Kong Family Traveller

H OT & H APPE NI NG

SAI KUNG ROCK POOLS, HONG KONG Our very own wild water swimming holes can be found all over Hong Kong, but Sai Kung Rock Pools is a fun spot to cool off in the heat of summer. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a bit of a hike from

the country park gates at Pak Tam Chung in the New Territories, but completely worth it as you and the kids plunge from the surrounding cliffs into the cool waters. The

swimming holes are fed by Sheung Luk Stream in Sai Kung Country Park East as the water tumbles down the mountains to the golden sands of Tai Long Wan below.

A word of caution, look before you leap and check the depth of the water, which can vary according to the time of year.

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28 Hong Kong Family Traveller

H OT & H APPE NI NG

TWA HOTEL AT JFK AIRPORT, NEW YORK Boasting what is probably one of the most engaging backdrops in the world is the new TWA Hotel in the US. The hotel opened at New York’s JFK Airport in May and its infinity pool and observation deck offers views over bustling runway four and out to Jamaica Bay. The observation deck also looks out onto Bay Runway, the second-busiest commercial runway in North America. It’s rumoured the deck rivals even the air traffic controllers’ vantage point. Not a hotel guest? No problem, make a pool reservation at twahotel.com

BRONTE BATHS, AUSTRALIA While the stunning Icebergs at Bondi Beach quite rightly makes headlines as one of the world’s most picturesque spots for a dip, our vote goes to the lesser known Bronte Baths just along the coastal path. In the early twentieth century, gender-separated ocean baths provided Sydneysiders with a muchneeded opportunity to cool off. The saltwater pools remain up and down the New South Wales coast and are sheltered from, yet fed by, the ocean. Bronte Baths sit right on the edge of Bronte beach and enjoy stunning views. Slip in at sunrise for a visual feast. waverley.nsw.gov.au

BUDE SEA POOL, ENGLAND Another stunning spot, this time in England’s southwestern corner, is Bude Sea Pool, a partially man-made tidal swimming pool nestled in the rocks of Summerleaze Beach near Bude, Cornwall. It was opened in 1930, is a challenging 88m in length and is fed by the bracing Atlantic Ocean. The pool is open 365 days a year and is supported by volunteer charity organisation, The Friends of Bude Sea Pool, with the aim of preserving and enhancing the facility for the benefit of the community and visitors to the town. budeseapool.org

Hong Kong Family Traveller 29

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FEATURES 30

Heading to Singapore? We show you all the tips and tricks for a fabulous family holiday

Inject a dose of family fun into your next trip to Europe with our round-up of what’s on this summer

How to enjoy Southeast Asia’s elephants the ethical way it’s easier than you think

Hong Kong Family Traveller 31

F O CUS

F CUS Singapore & Sentosa This year marks the bicentennial of the founding of modern Singapore. Here’s our guide to happy holidays with the kids in the Lion City

WHAT TO DO SINGAPORE Compared to Hong Kong, Singapore is a dream to navigate with small children and strollers. It might be searingly hot, but it’s also flat with wide sidewalks and many of the malls have free play areas. The MRT (MTR equivalent) is clean and efficient.

Gardens By The Bay One of Singapore’s more recent attractions, Gardens By The Bay is a nature park that has been built on 100-odd hectares of reclaimed land. It consists of three waterfront gardens, the largest of which is Bay South Garden, which includes two glass greenhouses, one of which, the Flower Dome, is the largest glasshouse in the world. 32 Hong Kong Family Traveller

There is also a towering indoor waterfall inside the adjacent Cloud Dome. For children, the Cloud Dome and waterfall is probably the more attractive of the two and there is also an action-packed, fun family

attraction at the nearby Far East Organisation Children’s Garden (don’t forget swimmers). Daily, 9am-9pm (last ticket sale 8pm); Children’s Garden, 10am-7pm (closed on Mondays). gardensbythebay.com.sg

Top - The futuristic sculptures at Gardens By The Bay now dominate Singapore’s skyline Above - Wet ‘n’ wild at the Far East Organisation Children’s Garden, Gardens By The Bay

SIN GAP O R E

Photo cradit to Jewel Changi Airport Devt Pte Ltd. and Gardens by the Bay

Singapore Zoo The city’s zoo is located in the heavily-forested area of the Upper Seletar Reservoir, a 40-minute drive from the centre of town. The 28-hectare park is operated by Wildlife Reserves Singapore, who also manage the popular Night Safari, River Safari and Jurong Bird Park. The zoo houses more than 300 species of animals and around 16% are considered to be threatened species. Inside the zoo there is a wet play area and strollers are available for hire. The night zoo runs from late afternoon until midnight and guests are transported around the park in guided, open-top train carriages - it’s a fun experience although it can be a challenge spotting some of the animals in the dark. Daily, 8.30am-9pm. wrs.com.sg

Jewel Changi Airport The Jewel, a shopping mall at Changi airport, opened to enormous fanfare (and long queues) earlier this year. The US$1.25 billion multiuse complex connects three

The Jewel Changi Airport houses the world’s tallest indoor waterfall

of Changi’s four terminals. Attractions include the HSBC Rain Vortex (which at 40m is the world’s tallest indoor waterfall), the indoor Forest Valley garden that spans five storeys, and the Canopy Park at the topmost level featuring gardens and leisure facilities. There are more than 280 retail and food

THE FOREST VALLEY INSIDE THE JEWEL SPANS FIVE STOREYS

& beverage outlets. Further facilities include an 11-cinema IMAX theatre, baggage storage area and a 130-cabin Yotelair Singapore Changi Airport hotel. Participating airlines are now offering an early check-in option if you want to have a look for yourself. jewelchangiairport.com Hong Kong Family Traveller 33

F O CUS

SENTOSA ISLAND The entertainment never ends in Singapore’s ‘State of Fun’, otherwise known as Sentosa Island. It’s flat, child-friendly, beach-lined and there are free shuttle buses connecting the attractions. Seriously, what more could you want?

Universal Studios A fun day out for all ages - there are suitably white-knuckle rides for the biggies - head for Battlestar Galactica: Human vs Cyclon or Revenge of the Mummy - and plenty of gentler offerings for littlies (or mums who could do without the adrenalin rush!). The park will also be unveiling two new themed areas from next year as part of the Resorts World Sentosa expansion plans; Minion Park featuring a motion-simulator 3D ride called Despicable Me Minion Mayhem and Super Nintendo World launch date is to be confirmed. Open daily, 10am-7pm. rwsentosa.com

MegaZip Adventure Spend a fun hour climbing 75m through the jungle and then zipping 450m down to the beach below. Suitable for most ages (our five-year-old loved his experience), although depending on their weight they may have to travel with an adult so they’re not left dangling. The friendly team kit you up and then off you whoosh. The ride ends on the beach adjacent to the Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa hotel at the far end of Siloso Road. Daily, 11am-7pm. sg.megaadventure.com

Skyline Luge The Skyride chairlift whisks you up to the top of the ride and from there you whizz down in a luge. The vehicles are easy to manage and can pick up a bit of speed - nobody wanted to travel 34 Hong Kong Family Traveller

Relax on the beaches of Sentosa Island and count the cargo ships in the bay

with over-cautious mum - and are really good fun. If you’ve got a good book or some social media to catch up on, buy the kids a multi-pass and spend a pleasant hour in the shade while they rush up and down. Small children should be accompanied by an adult. Safety helmets are provided. Daily, 10am-9.30pm. skylineluge.com

Singapore Cable Car This is a fun and scenic way to exit or enter Sentosa Island. The Mount Faber Line runs from Faber Peak in Singapore (the

city’s only hilltop destination), through a skyscraper and over Singapore harbour to Sentosa Island. Stops include Faber Peak, 109 Mount Faber Road (via taxi); Harbourfront Tower 2 beside Vivocity shopping mall; Siloso Point Station, 81 Siloso Road, Sentosa; and Merlion Station, 2 Siloso Road, Sentosa. Daily, 8.45am-10pm (last boarding at 9.30pm). sentosa.com.sg

Adventure Cove Waterpark A compact park ideal for younger children over the age

SENTOSA EXPANSION Resorts World Sentosa has just released details of a major, S$4.5 billion expansion plan. New attractions and entertainment will be opened in phases from next year until 2025. The plans include increasing Singapore Oceanarium to three times its original size and adding ‘state-of-the-art digital innovation and interactive technology’. A new waterfront lifestyle complex is also to be constructed, with two new destination hotels. And a new dining and performance venue, Adventure Dining Playhouse, will replace the existing Resorts World Theatre. rwsenstosa.com

of three. There’s a variety of slides and tubes, so whether you’re a thrill-seeker or have tots in tow, there’s something for everyone. It’s worth arriving early to bag yourself some loungers for the day either by the children’s pirate ship water park or next to the wave pool. There’s a lazy river that winds itself around the park as well as snorkelling opportunities at Rainbow Reef, a customised pool with a manmade coral reef and tropical fish. Or wade with the stingrays in Ray Bay. Please note there is a height requirement for some of the rides and you need to bring your own towels. Daily, 10am-6pm. rwsentosa.com

WHERE TO STAY Shangri-La Hotel Singapore It’s an upmarket hotel with a posh spa, but Shangri-La Singapore also has great babyfriendly credentials. The hotel boasts a dedicated family floor in the Tower Wing, deluxe family rooms, themed family suites, a family pantry (with car seats, strollers, cots and highchairs),

SEN TOSA

Views over Singapore and Marina Bay from The Fullerton Hotel Singapore

family-friendly dining and even complimentary kids yoga. And when parents need a break, Buds by Shangri-La is a fun, indoor-outdoor play space for youngsters of all ages. shangri-la.com

Village Hotel at Sentosa This brand new hotel has been designed with families in mind

and offers four pools - including a lazy river and a Children’s Play Pool - and a menu of fun weekend kids’ activities. Fun add-ons include a Happy Camper vintage Volkswagen food truck offering light refreshments and there are children’s amenities (including cots) upon request in all guest rooms. The hotel is located in the heart of Sentosa

Island and close to all attractions. villagehotels.com.sg

The Fullerton Hotel Singapore The legendary Fullerton Hotel is surprisingly family-friendly. Facilities include a welcome pack for kids, an ice cream pass for complimentary daily redemption of a scoop of ice cream, plus

baby essentials such as toiletries, playpens, cots and blankets. The hotel can also provide an extra inroom bed, connecting rooms and children’s menus and highchairs at all hotel restaurants. And take advantage of the hotel’s complimentary heritage tours and Fullerton experiences, such as cooking classes and walking tours. fullertonhotels.com

WHERE TO EAT Bayswater Kitchen Enjoy a waterside Sunday brunch with views over the Marina at Keppel Bay. There’s a kids’ menu for under 12s as well as foosball and a ping pong table. Meanwhile, parents can relax with jet-fresh seafood and a jug of Pimms. bayswaterkitchen.com.sg

Lau Pa Sat (pictured) Translated as ‘old market’ and also known as Telok Ayer Market, Lau Pa Sat is one of Singapore’s most popular hawker centres. Browse the bustling food shops, bag a table and savour local

Open Farm Community. This is a working, farm-to-table restaurant with beds of veggies, a kids sandpit, a playground and a large green. openfarmcommunity.com

Pollen favourites such as satay, Indian curries, laksa, noodles or Singapore’s signature chilli crabs. 18 Raffles Quay, Singapore.

fare as well as cocktails for the grown ups. Younger families will appreciate the nappy-changing facilities and a playpen for tots. olabeachclub.com

Ola Beach Club More brunching, this time on the beach at Sentosa with a pool and a bouncy castle. There’s plenty of kid-friendly

Open Farm Community Head over to Singapore’s Botanic Gardens for a stroll and drop in for lunch at nearby

Located inside the Flower Dome of Gardens By The Bay, Pollen offers a fine dining degustation menu on the first-floor and a casual, secondfloor terrace. The terrace is a great lunch spot, especially as there’s a kids’ menu and highchairs, plus entrance to the Flower Dome is free for Pollen diners. pollen.com.sg

Hong Kong Family Traveller 35

GENERATION GAME Carolynne Dear finds out how Club Med Bali has been raising the bar for kids with a brand new family programme

f ever there was a hasslefree holiday destination for families, it was Club Med. As every parent knows, with kids in tow, holidays take on a whole new dimension. A snack here, a drink there, another ice cream by the pool - it’s these daily add-ons that quickly spiral out of control. Not only that, small children don’t entertain themselves. And then you discover the bliss that is the all-inclusive holiday package. Back in the 1950s, the Club Med brand invented the holiday club concept, later adding the Mini Club and sealing its reputation as the best-in-the-business for family-friendly holiday. These days, it presides over nearly 70 resorts worldwide. The brand has now launched Amazing Family, a programme that offers families a chance to reconnect over a fun-filled 36 Hong Kong Family Traveller

weekly activity menu inspired by different categories, or ‘pillars’. The idea is to bring families together. Amazing Family was rolled out in Sanya as a pilot for the Asia region six months ago, the feedback was positive and it has since been launched in Guilin and then in Bali this spring. On July 1 it will be launched into all Southeast Asian resorts. “As the market leader of family vacations, we understand the needs of today’s families,” explains Xavier Desaulles, chief executive officer of Club Med East and South Asia Pacific. “Holidays are no longer just a bucket list of destinations. We are reinventing the purpose of the vacation and enabling guests to reconnect and create memories that last.” Indeed, studies show that more than 50% of our long-term

memories are created while we’re on holiday. The Amazing Family concept rests on five different categories to encourage family-time. Time to Play takes children away from screens with sensory activities such as giant board games like Twister, Connect Five and Molkky. Time to Move challenges the family with fun games like Soccer Bumper or a kite flying competition. Time to Care aims to raise environmental awareness with craft workshops, local cooking classes or maybe a family yoga session. Time to Quest connects family members with the local environment through a life-size digital treasure hunt using the Club Med Play app. And Time to Celebrate is a fun excuse for the whole family to let their hair

down, perhaps with a bubble party, and basically connect with their inner child. And when grown-ups want to step back and relax on their own, there’s plenty of kids-only fun on-hand, with activities designed for all age groups at the resort’s Kids’ Club. Club Med has worked hard to offer a consistent quality throughout its network of Kids’ Clubs. They are all about encouraging the children to engage and connect, while enjoying a wide range of carefully thought-out activities. Further family-friendly facilities include interconnecting rooms and spacious family suites, as well as plenty of childfriendly touches around the resort, such as step-up stools at the bar so they can order their own juices and a Kids Corner in the restaurants.

Kite-flying with dad on the beach

Club Med's Sebastien Portes joins in the family fun

But it’s not just older children that Club Med Bali has planned for. Bubs can be dropped at the Kids’ Club from just four months. There’s a Club Med Baby Welcome service to provide parents with essential baby and toddler equipment and the resort has also partnered with Bugaboo to ensure guests have strollers when needed. A partnership with booster-seat specialist Bombol

means toddlers can sit up at the adult dining table. From July 1, the resort will provide kid-sized bathrobes, slippers, dental kits and backpacks. Leaving adults with plenty of opportunity to check out the new Beach Bar - as I mentioned before, this is hassle-free holidaying at its finest.

The Amazing Family programme provides heaps of fun activities

clubmed.com.hk

MEMORY MAKERS Dad-of-two Sebastien Portes heads up Club Med in Hong Kong and Taiwan. He explains why family has always been central to his holiday plans

When I was little, we used to spend our summers at my grandparents’ place near Nimes in the south of France. In the winter, we would head to my other grandparents’ chalet in the Alps. Looking back, it was pretty idyllic. Family times centred around food and having fun. I guess they were perfect family gatherings, with tribes of cousins and up to 15 of us all playing together. Skiing in the winter and swimming in the summer, they’re pretty exceptional memories. I’m now a father myself

and have two incredibly active sons, aged four and six. My boys are super-active but I love every minute of our holidays. We’re on the go from morning to night, but it’s my time to engage with them properly. Hong Kong is fast-paced, never has the adage ‘work hard play hard’ been so true for a city. So when I go away, I want to spend time with my family. This was exactly the feedback we were receiving from Club Med guests. Parents were looking for

child-free relaxation time, but they also wanted the opportunity to spend time with their kids. Which is why we launched Amazing Family. We now offer the best of both worlds - if you want to have a day to yourself, there is the option of the Kids’ Club, but if you want to spend it with your children, Amazing Family helps you to do just that. For me, I love our mountain-based resorts. But after a trip to Club Med in the Maldives last year, my wife is pretty keen to return there! For the boys, it’s all about

the Kids’ Club - for them the highlight is the ‘show’ in the middle of the week. And it’s nice for myself and my wife to be able to relax, too. We always return to our homeland of France over the summer, and this year we’ll be heading to Normandy and Corsica to catch up with both mine and my wife’s sides of the family. I’m looking forward to joining the extended family, having lots of fun with all the children and to tucking into some French treats.

Hong Kong Family Traveller 37

F E AT UR E

CAPITAL CULTURE Summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s here and Europe beckons. But whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in it for the kids? Kate Farr discovers some inspired solutions for tour-weary children

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PARIS Hit the beach Every summer, those chic Parisians like to throw caution to the wind, roll up their trouserlegs and get a little whimsical with the annual Paris Plages, an event that recreates the charm of the French coastline in the heart of the capital. With ‘beaches’ popping up all over the city, you’re spoilt for choice. However, top picks include La Villette in the 19th arrondissement, which features a large swimming pool and canoeing opportunities. And at the Quai de Loire kids can test their mettle on a zipline as parents snooze in a deckchair. July 6 - September 1. en.parisinfo.com

Blow up Time to unpack your swimmers again and enjoy a day of overblown family fun at Europa Kids. Held at the Espace Chapiteaux, Paris’ renowned contemporary circus venue, this massive celebration of all things inflatable includes a 50-metre long water slide, a maze, a parkour and a ball pond. en.lavillette.com

Invent and explore If there’s one universal truth about Paris, it’s that it can blow a serious hole in your budget if you’re not careful. Happily, there are plenty of free family-friendly activities out there, including the excellent Musée Des Arts Et Métiers, which showcases 40 Hong Kong Family Traveller

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all sorts of exciting scientific inventions, quirky machines and mechanical doo-dahs. Multi-lingual guided tours for families are available every Sunday at 11am, and there is an ever-changing programme of workshops, events and presentations for little scientists to enjoy. arts-et-metiers.net

The need for speed Arguably France’s most celebrated sporting event, the Tour de France finishes its final stage in Paris following a gruelling 23-day race across France and Belgium. Offering spectators a thrilling opportunity to get up close to the cyclists as they whizz along the final few kilometres, designated spots at the Place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysées and Quai des Tuileries offer the best views and are ideal for soaking up the

special atmosphere. July 29. letour.fr

All the LOLs If you’re pining for your prechildren festival-going days, then fear not, as Lollapalooza Paris is perfect for parents and too-coolfor-school kids alike. The two-day music festival is staged at the Hippodrome Paris and includes headline sets by Twenty-One Pilots and The Strokes. But step away from the main stage and you’ll find plenty to entertain the real stars of the show. A festival within a festival, Kidzapalooza is dedicated to families, with live musical performances, a nail bar, street art workshops, face painting – and even a rock school to hone the next generation of hellraisers’ stagecraft skills. July 20 & 21. lollaparis.com

Where to stay Situated in the leafy 16th arrondissement, the Hôtel Molitor Paris – MGallery by Sofitel may be a little out of the way, but we promise that this palatial pad is more than worth the 15-minute journey into central Paris. The hotel is home to one of Paris’ most iconic outdoor pools which is heated to a balmy 28 degrees year-round, effectively warding off the unpredictability of a north European summer. Designed to be reminiscent of a luxury cruise ship, the Molitor offers spacious interconnecting rooms and family suites, regular kids’ street art workshops, an on-site brasserie with live DJ sets and a yoga studio. You can also experience the perfect pairing of child-minding services with an on-site Clarins spa for the ultimate in rest and relaxation. mltr.fr

Opposite page - (top) hitting the beach in the city; (bottom) fun and games at the Kidzapalooza festival This page - the heated outdoor pool at the stunning Hotel Molitor Paris - MGallery by Sofitel

Banish the ‘boreds’ Museums are an integral part of a trip to any major capital. But it can be dispiriting trying to engage youngsters, who, quite honestly, would probably rather be anywhere else but inside a museum. THATmuse (Treasure Hunt at the Museum) aims to engage kids with a bespoke treasure hunt. It currently offers hunts through London’s Natural History, British and Victoria & Albert museums and the Musee d’Orsay and Louvre in Paris. thatmuse.com

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L OND ON

Go green One of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most green and pleasant spots, The Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew has opened a brand new Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Garden this summer, with interactive play spaces for kids from toddlers to teens. Explore the living bamboo tunnel, burn off some energy on the buried trampolines, follow the sensory paths and roll up your trouser-legs for some splashy fun in the water garden. The park is laid out over an area the size of 40 tennis courts and families can also explore the space from above via an elevated canopy walk, which wraps around a 200-year-old oak tree in the heart of the garden. kew.org 42 Hong Kong Family Traveller

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Opposite page - (top) a right performance at Regent’s Park; fun in the new children’s garden at Kew This page - (left) wizard fun at the new Gringott’s Wizarding Bank exhibition at Warner Bros Studios; (right) Novotel London Tower Bridge is geared for families; welcome pack at Novotel London Tower Bridge

Fantastic beasts The Museum of London welcomes Beasts of London, a fascinating immersive experience that explores the role that animals have played in shaping the capital - from Roman times to the present day. Created in collaboration with the Guildhall School of Music and Drama, the installation is narrated by celebrities including Kate Moss, Stephen Mangan, Nish Kumar and Brian Blessed. There is also a full calendar of (occasionally grisly) family events, including a bone workshop and taxidermy demonstrations. This highly educational attraction supports the work of the International Fund For Human Welfare. museumoflondon.org.uk

Park performance A visit to London just wouldn’t be complete without catching a show. The Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre offers audiences an alfresco experience while enjoying a live performance. This summer’s schedule includes Hansel & Gretel (June 14-22), A Midsummer Night’s Dream (June 28 - July 27) and Evita (August 2 - September 21). Not a theatre buff? There are also Sunday night cinema screenings, including a singalong Mary Poppins. So pack a picnic,

bring a blanket and enjoy an evening under the stars. openairtheatre.com

Street eats Young foodies can cut their teeth on Eating Europe’s East End Food Tour. This smallgroup walking tour explores London’s diverse cultures, architecture and stories through the medium of food and is suitable for kids aged four and over. Taking in markets, bakeries and restaurants, you’ll discover London’s best bacon sandwich, sample authentic British fish ‘n’ chips and meet a master cheesemonger. This is one activity it’s worth skipping breakfast for. eatingeurope.com

Potter on This event is technically outside of London, but nevertheless, die-hard Harry Potter fans won’t want to miss the latest addition to The Making of Harry Potter at Warner Bros Studio Tour - Gringott’s Wizarding Bank. Explore the marble pillars, crystal chandeliers and sinister Lestrange vault made famous by JK Rowling’s celebrated tales. You’ll also have the chance to try out the immersive green screen experience. There are plenty of original costumes and prosthetics from the films, and

even a cafe with a Hogwart’sinspired menu. wbstudiotour.co.uk

Where to stay I was a guest of Novotel London Tower Bridge Hotel during my recent trip. The hotel is a stone’s throw from major tourist attractions including the Tower of London, HMS Belfast and Tower Bridge, as well as the City of London and Canary Wharf. The family rooms are spacious and can accommodate up to two adults and two children in comfort. Interconnecting rooms are also available for larger groups. Family-friendly touches include a small library of children’s books in the lobby and cuddly toys, colouring kits and a guide to local family-friendly attractions in the guest rooms. Keeper’s Restaurant offers a good quality kids’ menu - dishes

made with honey produced on the hotel’s rooftop feature. Further facilities include a sauna, hammam and fitness centre - although the best way to get your workout is to pound the surrounding pavements, soaking up London’s historic sights. novotel.com

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Schoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out - time to find the fun

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The long holidays are a great time for kids to gain some independence - and boost their learning - on a camp. This is our pick of the summer’s most exciting offerings Surfing in Hong Kong

Editor’s pick - tried-and-tested by Hong Kong Family Traveller

Surfing in Hong Kong? Absolutely! Our city is full or surprises and being able to head out and catch a wave is definitely one of them. There’s no need to leap on a plane to Bali to hit the surf this summer, jump on a ferry to Lantau instead. Treasure Island has a fine track record in turning out the next generation of board-riders at its week-long summer camps on Pui O Beach. Busy days on the beach are packed with activities, including learning surf skills, finding out about ocean safety and making new friends. And there are heaps of other sandy activities to keep mini wave-riders occupied when they’re not hanging ten. This year Treasure Island is offering three camps - Grommet Surf Camp for beginners aged five to nine years; an Intermediate camp for kids aged nine to 12 years and a broaderbased Adventure Camp with a range of outdoor activities, including an overnight camp, for seven to 16 year olds. Daily, supervised pick-up and drop-off from Central Ferry Pier is included, as well as lunch and snacks. treasureislandhk.com Hong Kong Family Traveller 45

SU M M ER CAM PS

TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL

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Mandarin immersion in China

IDEAL FOR OLDER KIDS

Aimed at children from seven to 17 years, Summer Camps China will have your offspring participating in Chinese cultural and learning activities and visiting historical and tourist sites in Beijing, Shanghai and Shenzhen. And of course taking part in Mandarin classes. Teen immersion programmes can be customised to meet students’ learning goals, with intensive or part-time Mandarin classes offered. There are homestay camps (kids must be 12 years or older) for up to four weeks, as well as day camps and family camps for younger students. Classes focus on developing students’ speaking, listening, reading and writing skills, so they’ll hopefully head back to class in September brimming with confidence and great summer memories. summercampschina.com

Back to nature in Hong Kong Outward Bound is located in Sai Kung’s stunning Country Park and is a year-round provider of outdoor activity programmes. But during the summer holidays the group reaches out with fun adventure camps for youngsters aged nine to 17 years. Leaders work hard to encourage kids to be curious and take part in new challenges, but most of all to have fun and

appreciate the great outdoors well away from screens and social media. The 4Kidz programme welcomes nine to ten year olds with paddling, dragon boating, bouldering, hiking, camping, gorge walking and jetty jumping. If nothing else, they’ll sleep well when they return home each evening. The Teen Explorers camp for 11-13 year olds includes a camping element, as well a

Above & below - discovering Hong Kong’s backyard with Outward Bound; Opposite page - team-building in Japan

Going green in Indonesia Peel kids away from their screens for a summer of adventuring at Green Camp Bali. Days are spent kayaking mangrove swamps, islandhopping, raft-building, making craft or learning about the Balinese rainforests. The length of the camps range from single activity days to a full week away from home. Depending on the camp, shared accommodation is included in yurts on the campus of Bali’s Green School, or in local family homestays. Twenty-four hour supervision and medical staff is available at all times. Week-long, day camps are also available for younger kids as well as threeday and five-day family camps. greencampbali.com

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leave-no-trace learning initiative. There is also a Youth Adventure camp for 14-17 year olds. Outward Bound encourages participants to develop selfindependence and take calculated risks, as well as being an effective team member who can make good decisions - all fantastic skills to take back to the classroom in September. outwardbound.org.hk

The great outdoors in Japan

humidity) with a programme that embraces the great outdoors. Camps can involve the whole family - perfect for nervous littlies - or there are day camps leaving parents to take off for some kid-free time (Monday to

Wednesday is for children only and on Thursday and Friday the whole family joins in). Activities include orienteering, nature spotting, family-based overnight camping, drama, day-trips and more. edventureniseko.com

great for families

Niseko might be better known for its snowy pistes, but once the white stuff has melted the area is transformed into a verdant wonderland of grassy slopes. Each summer, EdVenture takes advantage of the stunning scenery and activity-friendly temperatures (a blissful mid-20s on the thermometer and little-to-no Hong Kong Family Traveller 47

BALMY BALI HOLIDAYS Silversand Villa has the best of all worlds when it comes to enjoying your perfect Balinese getaway The stunning pool at Silversand Villa. Inset - a master bedroom

estled within lush private tropical gardens and surrounded by picture-perfect countryside, Silversand Villa is under an hour from Bali’s international airport, a short drive from the vibrant shopping and dining hub of Canggu and a five-minute stroll to tranquil Kedungu Beach. Silversand Villa offers a luxurious, full-service experience with daily housekeeping, laundry service and in-villa dining. Expect fluffy towels, hotel-quality bed linen, pampering toiletries, a daily gourmet breakfast and private lunch and dinner served on demand - in other words, all 48 Hong Kong Family Traveller

SILVERSAND VILLA OFFERS ALL THE LUXURY OF A FIVE-STAR HOTEL, BUT WITH A PERSONAL TOUCH

the luxury of a five-star hotel but with a more personal touch. Silversand Villa can be rented as two, two-bedroom units, or combined into a single, fourbedroom villa for larger groups. Each unit has a private plungepool and deck and there is also a large lap pool for communal use in the tropical garden area. Perfect for families, Silversand Villa boasts kids tableware, a bamboo pool fence, children’s

car-seat on request, a kids’ movie library, a toy chest, board games, books and pool and beach toys. Not to mention plenty of baby kit for younger families - from cots to high chairs, baby baths and bouncers, it’s all available for your use. And if there’s something you need that’s not in-house, the friendly villa team can arrange a hire on your behalf. There’s lots to do locally, but if you want to venture further afield,

SP ON S ORE D F E AT U RE

Horsing around in the surf

Surf’s up at Kedungu Beach

KEEP THE KIDS BUSY Surf lessons at Kedungu Beach - great for beginners and intermediates. facebook.com/surfingkedungu Horse riding at Kedungu Beach - the local riding school will have them saddled up and raring to go. facebook.com/saltycowboybali Canggu Waterpark

Bali Zoo is a fun day-trip

- splashdown for a day of fun and thrills. splashbali.com

Bali Zoo - just an hour’s drive from Silvesand Villa, Bali Zoo also has a water playground, so don’t forget your swimmers! bali-zoo.com

Bali Safari and Marine Park - home to more than 100 species, including rare and endangered animals, plus there’s a fun waterpark. balisafarimarinepark.com the Silversand Villa team can happily arrange a driver. But if you’d rather spend your precious holiday time relaxing back at the villa, we’ll make sure you’re left in peace. The team can

arrange in-villa massages, drinks served to your lounger and private dining. Just let them know your wishlist and they’ll make sure everything runs smoothly. Leaving you to enjoy your Balinese break.

Things to do, places to see • Peel yourself away from the pool and take a short stroll to Kedungu Beach. It’s an ideal sandy spot for families with plenty of activities. • Nearby Canggu offers great dining and shopping. Grab a bite for lunch at Shady Shack and browse the Full of beans beachwear and craft boutiques, at Bali’s chocolate following up with a relaxing factory massage at AMO Spa. The spa offers a Princesses and Wizards treatment menu for kids and serves smoothies to your chair. • A half-day foodie tour calls in at Bali’s organic chocolatier, POD. The brand produces bean-to-bar confectionary and during a visit kids get to roll up their sleeves and craft their own bar. And of course there’s also plenty of opportunity for free chocolate tasting and picking up a few yummy souvenirs to take home!

Silversand Villa provides plenty of toys to keep kids busy

• Walk off the calories with a hike and swim at the scenic Pengempu Waterfall in Cau Blayu. The secluded pool is right off the beaten track so our groups regularly have the place to themselves. Take a dip before heading off for a delicious local lunch.

GET IN TOUCH For more details, or to book your family holiday, go to silversand-villa.com

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BLUE LAGOON The Philippines is a mecca for scuba and snorkelling with a host of clear-water opportunities for exploring the ocean bed. Melanie Brown flew to Palawan to introduce her children to the delights of diving 50 Hong Kong Family Traveller

oth of our children are used to spending holidays snorkelling patiently on the ocean surface as we parents scuba beneath them. They have been treading water (quite literally), waiting for the time when they would both be old enough to take their PADI Open Water Certification. That moment has now been reached, so earlier this year we spent a sea-and-sun soaked week at the Sangat Island Dive Resort on the island of Palawan in The Philippines. Ten years is the minimum requirement for Open Water Certification, which allows for independent diving of up to 12 metres with a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;buddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

DIVIN G

In the weeks leading up to the holiday, anticipation mounted further as the children completed the online eLearning course and assessments - and I have to admit with a lot more enthusiasm than they usually manage to muster for their school homework assignments. Sangat Island is closest to Busuanga airport and is reached by a half-hour drive in a minivan and a further half-hour speed boat ride. But the remote dive resort had been recommended by friends and turned out to be worth the journey. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eco-friendly and family-friendly and apart from the odd grumpy wild monkey, very easy-going. We were well looked after by the dive shop, which is smoothly run by Jo Jo from Germany, an experienced and marvellously calm English dive instructor called Luke, and a team of efficient, well-humoured dive masters and boat captains.

Top - stunning Palawan is a hotspot for diving Above - taking the plunge

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F E AT UR E The children spread their open water qualification over five days, although it is possible to complete the course in four. The training begins in a sheltered, sandy-bottomed sea pool and then progresses to three, open water training dives. While the kids got the hang of their equipment and buoyancy control with the eternally patient Luke, myself and my husband explored the amazing shipwrecks in the Coron Bay area. On September 24, 1944, a US bomber squadron devastated a Japanese supply fleet. Today, these wrecks remain surprisingly intact and lie at accessible depths of about 20-40m, which means they work well for Nitrox (the oxygen-enriched air used in recreational diving) and don’t involve the hassle of lengthy 52 Hong Kong Family Traveller

decompression stops. We swam inside several massive vessels and saw boiler rooms, engines, tractors and even a bicycle and a gas mask. Some sections are narrow and dark, which the lobsters probably enjoy more than I did. In other spots, natural light fights through the fans and fish that arrange themselves in the portholes. Then you suddenly reach a wider open space where the light floods in from different holes in the wreck and it’s like a cathedral. The wreck dives were magical but by far the most memorable experience this holiday was the first reef dive we did as a family. Luke guided us, which helped the kids feel safe and follow the procedures they had learnt. Together, we descended to the maximum 12m that the children

are qualified for. I watched them find lots of “nemos”, a moray eel and colourful nudibranchs (sea slugs). Almost 20 years ago to the day, myself and my (now) husband had taken our own Padi

Advanced Open Water course together in Cairns, Australia, and marvelled at clownfish in the same way. The realisation that I’m not only still enjoying diving with my husband but also now with our two kids may have brought

Clockwise from top of opposite page - the Sangat Dive Resort in Palawan; the Brown family exploring the ‘big blue’; all smiles in the dive boat; the kids spotted plenty of ‘Nemo’ fish

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a tear or two to my eyes - luckily dive masks do a good job of concealing soppy mummy tears! “It felt like flying!” exclaimed my daughter back in the dive boat. “Actually it’s like wearing virtual reality goggles - but it’s reality,” corrected her brother. Needless to say, they were both blown away by their first ‘real’ dive. Another fun fact is that diving makes you hungry. The inclusive buffet meals at the resort were a pleasant surprise. We were presented with an impressive selection of dishes three times a day, with many plant-based options, pastas, curries and fresh salads, as well as the classic white rice option with pork or chicken that the kids love. We were even treated to spit-roasted wild boar with a thick, chewy crackling and gravy that completely broke my plantbased resolve! The happy hours involved brightly coloured, generously poured cocktails and bottles of San Miguel in the outdoor bar while the kids played pool, drank calamansi juice and scoffed bowls of popcorn. There is enough wifi in the indoor communal area to keep the kids

happy for an hour or so during siesta. The wifi doesn’t stretch to the accommodation or the outdoor bar, so I could enforce non-digital conversation on the family for most of the time. The accommodation is simple but clean and comfortable. In-keeping with the ecotourism ethos, there is no air conditioning, so we did have the

ceiling fan and two large plug-in fans running all night. As well as dining and diving, there are canoes, stand-up paddle boards, jet skis and my personal favourite, comfortable hammocks. We also took a full-day, island-hopping trip to visit the lagoons, lakes and snorkelling spots in Coron Bay. The stops were beautiful but

somewhat busy at Easter so we appreciated our Sangat seclusion the following day. We’ll definitely be back to Sangat when the children are of an age and experience level to explore the wrecks with us. In the more immediate future, I’m just trying to work out how we can squeeze a few more family dives into our busy summer plans….

TRAVEL STATS The Brown family flew Cathay Pacific from Hong Kong to Manila, where they transferred to the domestic terminal (top tip, take a taxi rather than the slower, airport shuttle bus). They then flew with Sky Jet to Busuanga. The resort organised the rest of the transfer. All up, it took 12 hours door-to-door. More details about Sangat Islands Dive Resort can be found at sangat.com.ph

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MAKING WAVES From Dolce & Gabbana to dramatic duomos, Carolynne Dear finds there’s plenty of action for a family holiday on the Italian lakes

he sun was sinking photogenically behind the distant snowtipped mountains of the Rhaetian Alps as the kids plunged headfirst into Lake Como. It had been a long day - up early to catch flights, my husband and eldest daughter from Hong Kong, the rest of us from Granny’s place in London. After beating the car hire queue at Milan’s Malpensa airport, the afternoon had been spent picking our way around bends and plunging through tunnels as we navigated our way north to the pretty little waterside town of Tremezzo.

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The lake had been glinting tantalizingly through the righthand car windows in the midafternoon heat and by the time we’d found our accommodation and unpacked, we couldn’t wait to plunge into its cool waters. Lake Como is located in northern Italy’s Lombardy region and is renowned for its stunning Alpine scenery, elegant villages and George Clooney (but more about him later). Glacial water is fed from the Swiss Alps into what is one of the deepest lakes in Europe. Perfect for a mid-summer evening dip. The town of Como is an easy hour on the freeway from Milan and from there you pick-up a

single-file road that hugs the banks of the lake and takes you past ritzy villas, upscale hotels and inviting-looking pizzerias. Our base for the week was Tremezzo, located on the lake’s western shores. The west side is buzzier than the wilder and more remote east bank. As first-timers to the area, we’d opted for the busier side as it seemed more accessible for all the touristy bits and pieces that we wanted to do. Tiny Tremezzo is one of the most popular towns on the lake and is situated opposite the equally popular town of Bellagio. The two are linked by a ferry. Dramatic villas and hotels built during the 18th and

19th centuries, including the world-famous Grand Tremezzo Hotel and the artwork-filled Villa Carlotta, line the narrow roads. During our stay the town was overrun with a Dolce & Gabbana shoot, with serious-looking men in dark glasses clutching walkie talkies positioned strategically on street corners as wave after wave of people carriers with blacked out windows swept past our apartment to disgorge the elite of the fashion world into the local park. It was stereotypical Italy at its finest. Top of our to-do list and by far and away the best thing to do when you’re staying on the Italian lakes was to hire a speedboat.

ITALY

The weekends are busy with day-trippers so we headed out on a quieter week-day. There are plenty of boat-hire places dotted along the banks and we’d soon secured a vessel for an afternoon of exploration. You don’t need a boat licence in Italy, we just needed to show a driving licence and passport or identity card, and after a brief set of instructions in broken English (forward, backwards, fast, slow, stop) we were off. The lake is very deep which means anchoring is not possible. Instead, there are buoys to manoeuvre up to and tie onto - and then you just plunge in, or lie back on the deck and soak up the sunshine.

We toured the lake from top to bottom, naturally taking in the Dolce & Gabbana photo shoot in the gardens of Villa Carlotta (on perusing Tatler several months later I’m convinced I managed to squeeze into the background of a particularly scenic lake shot; Patsy Stone eat your heart out) and of course the summer residence of George Clooney. Unfortunately neither George nor the family were free for a sandwich on the boat, so we snapped off a few pictures and continued on our way. The kids absolutely loved the boat days. They all had a turn at steering, had a ball diving in over the side and shooting selfies for Instagram and it was so much

more enjoyable viewing the local area from the water than from the road. We rented our launch for a few hours on a couple of afternoons, not forgetting to pack sunscreen, towels, caps, snacks and plenty of water. On other days we stepped away from the water and used the car for some road-based exploration. The city of Como at the southern tip of the lake is well worth the trip. We spent a few years living in its New South Wales namesake, so were intrigued to see what the ‘real’ Como was like. And with two teen girls, I find it’s best to have a shopping day up my sleeves to keep everyone smiling, so when we woke up to overcast weather

mid-week, it was the perfect opportunity. We had a wander through the boutiques in the pretty town centre, which is dominated by the fourteenth century Duomo (Como Cathedral). Como also has a lovely waterfront promenade with scenic boat trip opportunities and we spent the afternoon catching the funicular railway up to the picturesque village of Brunate. Top tip, sit on the left hand side of the carriage coming back down, the views over the Duomo and the city are spectacular. If you’re looking to stay in Como, the Mandarin has recently opened the lakefront Mandarin Oriental Lago di Como, which looks suitably swish. Hong Kong Family Traveller 55

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ITALY

On another day we drove across the mountains to the Swiss city of Lugano. This attractive city sits on the northern shore of the glacial Lake Lugano and it turned out to be one of my favourite memories of the holiday. The pedestrianised city centre winds its way around the central main square, Piazza della Riforma, which is surrounded by pastel-coloured, neoclassical palazzi. We enjoyed pizzas all round followed by a stroll through the waterfront park whereupon we chanced on the Lido di Lugano, a superb set of outdoor swimming pools and grassy areas set adjacent to a lakeside beach. The European school summer holidays were in full swing by this stage but we still found a quiet spot on the beach. The kids enjoyed the well-lifeguarded diving pool while my husband and I lazily dog-paddled past the weeping willow trees on the bank to the diving platform. It was divine. We drove home through a dramatic and very sudden summer storm which made for an even more memorable day. For a wedding anniversary treat, my husband whisked me to dinner at Grand Hotel Tremezzo one evening. Plenty of the fash pack had also descended on the fine-dining restaurant La Terrazza and I was glad I’d picked up a suitably bling pair of shoes in a boutique in Como earlier in the week. The hotel is astonishingly grand - don’t miss a trip to the ladies loos - with vast swathes of marble and gold. And the sun dips picturesquely behind the mountains opposite the al fresco drinks terrace, so if you’ve booked a table, try and head over for an aperitif before sunset. For a week-long holiday, there was plenty to fill our days, from wandering the lakeside towns to lazing in the botanical gardens of Tremezzo. Italy does ‘family’ very

well and there are heaps of childfriendly restaurants lining the shores. We were able to walk into town from our accommodation but were also glad we had hired a car for days out - you can’t do everything via the lake. Tremezzo was a good, central location for viewing the surrounding tourist towns of Menaggio and Bellagio and emptied out nicely in the evenings when the tourist buses had departed for the day. We’re already looking forward to a return visit…

Opposite

TRAVEL TIPS

- Lake Como’s pretty towns and villas from the

We flew Cathay Pacific from Hong Kong to Milan’s Malpensa airport - around 11 hours - and hired a pre-booked car at the airport. The drive from Milan to the lakes takes approximately one hour. We travelled in June.

lake Clockwise from top left - the view from our Tremezzo apartment; lazy boat days; exploring Lugano; swimming in Lake Lugano

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TRUNK CALL So-called elephant ‘sanctuaries’ have proliferated in Southeast Asia over recent years. Nashua Gallagher explains why many are not as ‘ele-friendly’ as they claim

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he elephant is synonymous with Asia. These beautiful animals are omnipresent in trinket-form at night markets throughout the region, as well as depicted in historical artefacts such as pottery, wall carvings and other excavated matter. Their religious importance extends through both of the region’s largest belief systems, Hinduism and Buddhism. And elephant ownership has a long history of signifying wealth and royal lineage. But despite this reverence, over the last 100 years, elephant populations have plunged by more than half, from an estimated 100,000 a century ago to just 35 to 40,000 today.

Conflict between humans and elephants over habitat loss through farming and urban development has contributed to depleting populations. This is further compounded by explosive human population growth. Poaching is less of an issue for the Asian elephant as its tusks are not as big or as prized as its African cousins, but demand still exists here for elephant body parts for use in traditional medicine. Elephants are highly intelligent, social animals who live in matriarchal societies with a lifespan that rivals humans. When a baby elephant is born, it falls under the protection of the entire herd. So when elephants are taken into captivity, either to perform

manual labour or to entertain tourists, this familial bond has to be severed in order to ‘tame’ them. The methods deployed to achieve this include a traumatic separation from the mother as well as the matriarch of the group - which in most cases involves killing either one or both of them, given the strong maternal bonds of an elephant to protect their young. This is followed by an equally cruel process commonly referred to as ‘spirit breaking,’ where the baby or juvenile elephant is restrained, beaten and bullied into submission. These elephants are then destined for a life of service; in trekking camps, circuses, elephant ‘painting’ shows, religious rituals and cultural processions. Because submission to any

THE MOST IMPACTFUL THING YOU CAN DO IS REALLY EASY DON’T SUPPORT ANY ACTIVITY THAT INVOLVES ELEPHANTS HAVING TO ‘DO’ SOMETHING.

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animal outside of its herd is a conditioned behaviour, elephants are constantly kept in line with bull-hooks (a metal hook with sharpened points that is used on the most sensitive part of an elephant’s skin to exert control),

restraints and limited freedom. The next time you’re on a Cathay flight, look out for the documentary Love and Bananas which follows a team of rescuers led by renowned elephant conservationist, Lek Chailert,

on a 48-hour mission across Thailand to rescue a captive 70-year-old elephant. The film is an eye-opening account of the current state of play of the Asian elephant and exposes generations-long methods of

Feeding the residents their afternoon tea at Phuket Elephant Sanctuary, Thailand

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controlling elephants in forced captivity. As Lek says in the film, “Elephants have been broken, not domesticated.” The tide is, however, thankfully turning. Through awareness and education programmes led by a network of conservationists and animal welfare champions around the world, demand for elephant-riding has decreased, leading to some trekking camps removing their saddles for good in favour of less invasive elephant encounters. A knock-on benefit of this is to the communities surrounding these projects, from job creation for farmers whose yields help feed the elephants, to training mahouts (elephant keepers) and employing on-site staff to help run the project. Community engagement on this scale leads to lasting attitudinal changes which benefit not just the elephants, but the surrounding community as a whole. A wildlife project deep in the jungles of Wasgamuwa, Sri Lanka, led by the Sri Lankan Wildlife Conservation Society, instigated the planting of orange trees around rural villages. Research found that native elephants displayed an aversion to citrus, so planting the orange

are arguments even amongst conservationists as to how best to tackle active captivity. The good news is that the most impactful thing you can do is really easy - don’t support any programme that requires elephants to do something. If the elephant needs a saddle, paintbrush, football, or is made to respond to humans in ways that fall outside their natural behaviour, then it’s an attraction best avoiding. Even bathing with elephants is off-the-cards; elephants love to bathe, but to do so they need to splash, roll and submerge themselves in

mud. Standing at a distance and quietly observing is respectful, educational and fascinating plus you’ll come away with some great shots. Spending time with elephants in an acceptable way is a fairly new space and even the more established sanctuaries are still feeling their way around balancing demand with animal welfare. Some things to look out for include size of the herd; the level of human/elephant interaction permitted; what restraints are used; is there a safety briefing; how are the elephants sourced; are

Elephant Nature Park, Chiang Mai, Thailand

helps them retire in peace. PES can pick-up and drop-off to your resort, or you can meet at its Paklok headquarters. From there, pick-up trucks drive visitors out to the park (a 20-minute journey). On arrival, a video about the park and its work is shown and visitors are provided with rubber boots, divided into small groups and escorted on-foot around a section of the park to view the herd. The guides are informative and patient and there’s plenty of opportunity to take pictures and ask questions as the elephants amble freely, chomp on bamboo or bathe in the muddy ponds. At the end of the tour, visitors are invited to feed a couple of the herd a fruit and cucumber-based afternoon tea. This is followed up with a delicious buffet for humans. phuketelephantsanctuary.org

Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary, Siem Reap, Cambodia

This sanctuary is managed by Save The Elephant Foundation and is home to over 80 exworking elephants - plus some 600 dogs and 300 cats. It’s an impressive operation in the north of Thailand, surrounded by lush Thai jungle, and it supports hundreds of jobs in the surrounding area. My husband and I opted for the overnight package, which included preparing food and feeding the elephants, observation and guided walks, plus accomodation in a charming cabin (spacious enough for a family) and a personal guided visit with one of the resident herds. All meals are catered and vegan and in the evenings you can mingle with the volunteers and other visitors from all over the world. Plus there’s an option for a cheeky foot massage. This was an unforgettable trip, and we plan to return. saveelephant.org

Phuket Elephant Sanctuary, Phuket, Thailand Phuket Elephant Sanctuary (PES) rescues elephants from the Thai tourist and logging trades and

Also managed by Save The Elephant Foundation, this sanctuary does not currently advertise their day trips, but if you’re keen to tag along, email cws@saaveelephant.org. This is a more intimate encounter than the Chiang Mai project and perfect for older kids. There is a pick-up and drop-off

there vets on-hand; and how transparent is this process? Reviews from people who have already visited are a good way to find this information. When I visited sanctuaries in both Cambodia and Thailand, I was struck by the knowledge, care and commitment to animal welfare shown by its staff. Humans are responsible for the current plight of the elephant, let’s hope they can also take responsibility for the damage that has been done. As the old adage goes, an elephant never forgets.

service from Siem Reap and it’s a two-hour drive to the project. Once there, we prepared food for the three resident elephants, Di Poh, Arun Ria and Saria Mia, as well as several species of monkey. Lunch for humans is also included, plus the chance to ask lots of questions. saveelephant.org

August 12 is World Elephant Day, find out how to get involved at worldelephantday.org

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M IN DF U L T RAVEL

trees has enabled humans and elephants to live side-by-side. Decades on, this has created a new source of income for the farming families most impacted by wild elephants. Unfortunately eco-tourism has become a victim of its own appeal. Tourist attractions have started to employ buzz words such as ‘eco’, ‘environmental’ and ‘sanctuary’ in their marketing material without backing up with true conservation practices. Years of captivity has created a situation so unnatural to elephant behaviour that there

DINING ADVENTURES

PANCAKE PIT STOP Osaka’s fluffy pancake guru, Cafe & Pancake Gram, is debuting in Singapore this June. The brand will be opening a restaurant in the city’s popular VivoCity shopping mall. The Japanese pancake craze appears to be sweeping the world - Hong Kong welcomed the chain’s first overseas outpost last year when Cafe & Pancake Gram opened at The ONE in Tsim Sha Tsui. The chain is famous for its Insta-friendly, four-centimetre thick, wobbly souffle pancakes, served with whipped cream, butter and syrup. The fluffy texture is achieved

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by whipping egg whites until stiff before adding them to the batter. The Hong Kong-based outlets are located at Shop G01, 535 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay; K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; and L408 The ONE, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Kerry Hotel Hong Kong has launched The Garden Tea with Les Nereides, a collaboration inspired by French jewellery creator Les Nereides’ 2019 Spring/ Summer collection. As if the thought of scones and cream and a delectable tea-stand laden with treats wasn’t enticement enough, Les Nereides is also gifting guests a delicate, limited edition Kerry x Les Nereides bracelet and shopping vouchers. (This comes with a ‘while stocks last’ clause so do pop in earlier rather than later). The Amazon-inspired jewellery collections have been entitled Luxurious Canopy and Hanging Garden and are a brightly coloured pop of fun designs, featuring toucans, cheetahs and tropical flowers, perfect for dressed-down summer holiday outfits. And Les Nereides hopes to have brought a little bit of the Amazon rain-forest to the hotel’s harbourview lobby lounge, too. Executive chef Matthew Woolford and executive pastry chef Julien Gourmelon have pulled out all the stops, serving a really quite delectable menu featuring pomegranate, pink-banana, passion flower and tamarind. The highlights were a melt-in-your-mouth salted cacao crumble pod filled with a light and airy chocolate mousse and ‘The Toucan’, a roasted-coconut and milk chocolate mousse ‘beak’. Also on the stand was a foie gras ganache tart, a flower crab-meat cone with passion fruit, mint and sesame - and of course a basket loaded with warm scones. The pomegranate & strawberry jam and cream complimented them beautifully. $638 per set. The tea is served 2.305.30pm daily until August 18. Hong Kong Family Traveller was a guest of Kerry Hotel. shangri-la.com/Kerry

Photo credit: Ajay Suresh from New York, NY, USA via Creative Commons

TEA AND SCONES ON THE WILDSIDE

Brit restaurant The Leah has moved into the restaurant space at Causeway Bay’s private family members club, Maggie & Rose. When the club closes at 7pm, the restaurant area transforms, with a dedicated entrance that opens onto an outdoor terrace and bar. Inside, the dining room channels a homey, plant-bedecked British conservatory, with windows overlooking the terrace. The Leah offers “British food done right”, using locally-sourced vegetables, meats and sustainable seafood. The menu features innovative ‘comfort food’ dishes such as scotch egg and soldiers (pictured); beef short-rib, onion and beef fat gnocchi; beef, ale and black pepper pie; roasted Dover sole; and scampi, crushed peas, vinegar and crisps. Add an imaginative cocktail menu into the mix - the Wimbledon Cup is perfect for summer evenings - and a selection of local and international ales, and this is one English garden party just waiting to happen. 308 & 311, Lee Garden Two, 28 Yun Ping Road, Causeway Bay

FAMILY DINING IN SOHO Putting family and friendship at the centre of proceedings is brand new space, Kinship. The restaurant was due to open in early summer (there was no firm date at time of going to press) on Shelley Street in Hong Kong’s lively SoHo district. Chefs Arron Rhodes, formerly of Tai Kwun’s Statement, and Chris Grare, who moves over from his post as executive chef at Lily & Bloom, are combining their years of experience in the industry to serve up their vision of ‘soulful and rustic home-style cuisine with a new world edge’. The space promises a relaxed but elegant dining atmosphere where family comes first. The restaurant boasts a farm-to-table concept with an emphasis on forging sustainable relationships with family-run local farms and suppliers. It plans to open daily for lunch and dinner and for weekend brunch. kinshiphk.com

OCEAN INSPO AT AQUA Award-winning Tsim Sha Tsui restaurant Aqua is serving up six special a la carte seafood creations this season. All have been cultivated with minimal environmental impact and responsibly harvested. The lead dish on the aquaMarine menu is the stunningly presented Amalfi Rock Pool (pictured), which was apparently inspired by beachcombing activities by the chef along the Italian coast. The food sculpture includes Kombu and nori seaweeds served two-ways, a rather more-ish red and white prawn tartare and sea urchin mousse topped with caviar and nestled in drift-wood. Hokkaido Bay was also a stand-out - steamed kinki fillet and soft, kombu-marinated tofu immersed in a delicate broth of Indian Ocean water. All six aquaMarine menu items are painstakingly displayed and can be ordered separately to complement the main restaurant menu. Paired with Aqua’s knock-out floor-to-ceiling views over Victoria Harbour, they make an elegant - not to mention Instagrammable - addition to a memorable evening. Hong Kong Family Traveller was a guest of Aqua. aqua.com.hk Hong Kong Family Traveller 63

DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

BRITISH FAVOURITES AL FRESCO

DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

Room with a view Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen has opened on the Peak. Hong Kong Family Traveller finds out if it’s worth the climb

fter three years in Lan Kwai Fong, Bread St Kitchen (BSK) closed its doors last summer and has now taken up a prime position on Hong Kong’s Victoria Peak. The new BSK is located on the ground floor of The Peak Galleria. The space is sleekly decked out, with attractively-hung pendant lighting and BSK’s signature black-and-white floor. The restaurant welcomes families and if you have littlies in tow, there is a kids’ menu available. The adult menu is a crowdpleasing offering - crab, 64 Hong Kong Family Traveller

meatballs, octopus, steak tartare and honey glazed short ribs all featured as entrees. BSK might not be pushing any victual boundaries, but what it does, it does well. We enjoyed some nicely plump scallops with a rather delicious side of chorizo jam. For the main we couldn’t walk past Ramsay’s signature beef Wellington - bear in mind it’s served for two and the staff need a 45-minute heads-up. The dish was worth the wait - the beef was tender and pink with a satisfying crust and came with great sides of mashed potato

and cauliflower gratin. A traditional Brit sticky toffee pudding rounded off the evening nicely. The restaurant also serves a comprehensive breakfast menu - all the usual favourites involving eggs and smashed avocado, sourdough, granola and pancakes. It would make a perfect weekend pit-stop with the kids after a brisk walk along Lugard Road. Hong Kong Family Traveller was a guest of Bread Street Kitchen. diningconcepts.com

Gordon Ramsay’s delectable beef Wellington with sides

The Langham The Bostonian Seafood & Grill at Tsim Sha Tsui’s The Langham hotel has launched a family-friendly, four-hour Sunday Seafood & Champagne Brunch. Highlights include a seafood tower with jet-fresh oysters, crab, prawns and gin- and wasabi-marinated salmon, a wide choice of European cold cuts and a live salad station. Stretching from noon to 4pm, the brunch is one of Hong Kong’s longest and with Perrier-Jouet Champagne on free-flow, it’s perhaps also one of the more glamorous. Children are welcome, with an attended play area filled with activities and toys. Shared dishes served tableside include Boston baked lobster, pan-fried duck liver with potato and black truffle foam, seafood paella and whole-roasted suckling pig. Mains run from grilledto-order Black Angus beef

Six main courses are offered, followed by a dessert station. Kids’ menu items include an ice cream cart, burgers, mac ‘n’ cheese and popcorn. Drinks packages are available. $598 per adult, $298 per child (five to 11 years), Sundays only, 12.303pm. niccolohotels.com

Tai Pan at The Murray Hotel

Felix tenderloin, whisky-marinated Tasmanian organic salmon as well as vegan options. And then it’s time to hit the dessert buffet. $688 per person with online prepayment discounts available. langhamhotels.com

Tai Pan Tai Pan at The Murray Hotel has launched a Sunday semi-buffet brunch. All ages are welcome and there are plenty of fun activities for youngsters, from face

painting to balloon twisting and a magic show. The semi-buffet begins with freshly shucked French oysters served-to-table, followed by cooked-toorder scrambled eggs and creamed green asparagus topped with lavender foam. Guests are then invited to help themselves to salads, smoked seafood, charcuterie items, breakfast pastries and cheeses. There’s roast Peking duck at the carvery station and freshly prepared pastas.

Felix at The Peninsula hotel has launched a Brunch Series. Live stations feature seafood and egg specialities, alongside cheese and salad stations and main courses made-to-order and servedto-table. The restaurant’s mixologist conjures up a wide menu of concoctions, with vegetable and fruit juices available for the more health-conscious. $898 per adult, $638 per child (six years plus), drinks packages available, Sundays only, 11.30-3pm. peninsula.com

Brunch treats at The Langham Live entertainment at Felix

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DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

This summer’s best new brunches

GROWN-UP GETAWAYS 66 Hong Kong Family Traveller

BHUTAN

Hitting new heights Theresa Briscoe left the kids in Hong Kong and embarked on the trip of a lifetime with a group of friends. From nail-biting vertiginous mountain passes, to archery competitions on hotel lawns, Bhutan made for an unforgettable few days

he plane dog-legged its way through the narrowest of valleys between the soaring Himalayan mountains and finally straightened up, dipped, and came to an abrupt halt on a not-very-long runway. We’d landed - safely - in Bhutan. Paro airport definitely isn’t the for the faint-hearted and is firmly ranked in the top ten of the world’s trickiest landings. Only a small number of pilots are trained to carry out the deft manoeuvres required to get a plane safely on the ground here. But for me, it was just one of the many attractions of travelling to Bhutan. I was holidaying with a group of friends who these days live scattered all over the world. Each year, we all meet up in a new destination. As we disembarked the plane and congregated in the airport, our guide informed us Paro runway is the only straight road in the country. The rest of Bhutan’s transport network winds its way precariously around the Himilayan ranges with peaks in excess of 7,000 metres. The landlocked country is situated on the ancient Silk Road between Tibet, the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. It has never been colonized and has developed a distinct national identity based on Buddhism.

Bhutan has always intrigued me - its natural beauty, its proximity to China and India yet remaining relatively cut off from both, not to mention the fact that its people measure their success in happiness. I was hoping to experience something a bit different, a place away from the usual tourist trail. And with a daily ‘happy’ tax and permission to enter the country only granted to visitors who have a Bhutanese guide in place and travel arranged through an approved travel agent, it certainly isn’t the easiest place in the world to access. But it was all so worth it. I can’t come up with enough adjectives to describe just how breathtaking, serene and pristine Bhutan is. Over the next few days, our roomy, largewindowed, 20-seater mini van took us past prayer wheels, dzongs, festivals, chanting monks, temples, monasteries and the beautiful Bhutanese people. I enjoy photography, but in this instance I felt myself struggling to do my surroundings justice. It’s also a country of enormous contrasts, which I hadn’t fully appreciated. To the south, where Bhutan borders India, the landscape is sub-tropical jungle, something that has acted as a natural borderline for millennia.

Opposite - the famous Buddhist Tigers Nest temple complex, Paro Top -Stunning backdrops to cultural buildings abound; residents of the Nunnery at Punakha

To the north, west and east, Bhutan is surrounded by the Himalayas, which again act as a natural frontier. It’s dry and rocky and you can see snow-capped mountains in every direction. As we drove through the passes, it was very green but very steep, and there were more than a few gasps from our minivan as the vehicle negotiated the many twists and turns. The highly-decorated lorries on the roads certainly push their limits fortunately we had a good driver. Hong Kong Family Traveller 67

BHUTAN Between towns and passes there is not very much, no service stations and very few places to stop. There were a handful of teahouses where we could stop for a drink and a loo break, but otherwise it was the bush if you were desperate! Most passes have Buddhist stupas (places of meditation) at the top, laden with prayer flags. At each pass we were asked to shout “Lha-gey-lo” which means “May the gods be victorious”. There are prayer flags everywhere you look in Bhutan. They are usually coloured and arranged in a specific order from left to right; blue (sky), white (air), red (fire), green (water) and yellow (earth). These five colours placed together represent the balance between the five elements. Along the roadsides are also many mini-stupas. They’re called tsatsas and are placed as a tribute or prayer for a loved 68 Hong Kong Family Traveller

one, either living or departed. There are dzongs (the residences of regional governors and dzong lords) in every town and they dominate every place you visit. These fortified buildings were, and still are, used for administrative and monastic purposes. The Bhutanese that we met were extremely welcoming. Most people wore traditional clothing - men wear a ‘gho’ and women a ‘kira’. The accommodation had been chosen by our tour company and was consistently amazing. We travelled to Thimpu and then on to Phobjikha Valley, Punakha and Paro. Every hotel was very different and in-tune with the surroundings of its particular area. My favourite was Gangtey Goenpa Lodge in Phobjikha Valley - we enjoyed amazing food, stunning views and even had an archery competition on the lawn.

Top - Gangtey Monastery, Phobjikha Valley Clockwise from top - meeting the locals in Punakha; a prayer wheel; prayer beads

Paro

Paro - we visited Tengchu Goemba monastery, Rinpung Dzong and had lunch at Sonam Trophel restaurant, known for its Indian, Bhutanese and Chinese cuisine. Thimpu - Bhutan’s capital and home to the government and royal family. We visited Buddha Dordenma, the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (a school educating young people in traditional Bhutanese arts) and drove through the Dochula

Bhutan

Thimpu

Punakha Phobjikha Valley

Pass to the glacial Phobjikha Valley. Phobjikha Valley - we hiked through the countryside and visited Gangtey Monastery and a local farmhouse to try homemade yak butter tea and ‘ara’ (a local liquor made from fermented rice). Punakha - the former capital. We visited Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang Monastery, Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup

Nunnery and were lucky enough to witness a local festival with monks dressed in costumes dancing to the beat of the (many) drums and horns. Paro - our final stop and the highlight of any trip to Bhutan, a hike to the sacred Buddhist temple complex known as ‘Tiger’s Nest’ constructed on the side of a cliff. It’s a steep climb but there are tea houses in which to catch your breath. It’s cold at the top but so worth it for the serenity.

TRAVEL STATS Theresa flew from Hong Kong to Bangkok with Cathay Pacific. She stayed overnight at Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport and caught a Druk Air flight to Paro the following morning, with a short fuel-stop in Kolkata. The tour was organised by GeoEx, who also arranged visas. geoex.com

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GROWN- UP GETAWAYS

The itinerary

GROWN-UP GETAWAYS Clockwise from top left - fun and games at Talo Festival; a dancer at Talo Festival; prayer flags on the walk to Tiger’s Nest temple complex; a Yak farmer, Phobjikha Valley

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Talking about food, Bhutan dining tables boast a fusion of Chinese and Indian dishes. Think vegetarian curries and momos (Himalayan dumplings) with lotus root, spinach and chilli. Most dishes come mixed with cheese and yak cheese is particularly popular. There are lots of potato dishes and often soups or stews containing dried beef. We even tried Bhutanese sausage. When we weren’t touring, we managed to squeeze in some shopping - it was a ladies trip,

after all! Look out for Bhutanese artefacts including horns, bowls and buddhas; yak or alpaca rugs; scarves and ceramics - we discovered a beautiful local pottery over the road from our hotel in Paro called Yangphel Pottery & Ceramic that made stunning, hand-painted pieces. I loved everything about this trip and would like to return one day with my children - I think they would love the outdoor nature of Bhutan, although I would probably cut down on the

amount of driving we did and stay in one of the luxury hotel chains, such Six Senses Bhutan or COMO Uma, Paro. And back to the in-bound flight, now I know I can hold my nerve (and not have to cover my eyes!) next time I’ll be reserving a seat on the left-hand side of the ‘plane for fabulous views of Everest on the approach. We did wonder why all those seats had been taken...

CL ASSIF IE D

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Madrid Explore Madrid from this centrally located, two-bedroom apartment in Malasaña. The accommodation sleeps six, including one bedroom, one double bedroom, a double sofa-bed, two bathrooms, lounge/diner and kitchen. Walking distance from the city’s major attractions.

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Bali Luxe, four-bedroom Balinese villa at The Layar in the heart of Seminyak. The property occupies an oversize double-plot and is the only four bedroom villa within the complex. Facilities include a private 18-metre pool, TV room, massage room, indoor/outdoor living and jacuzzi.

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Want to see your holiday rental here? Email carolynne@hongkongfamilytraveller.com Hong Kong Family Traveller 71

COMPETITION TIME Congrats to all our spring winners! Stay One Degree hosted a dim-sum lunch for twenty Hong Kong Family Traveller readers in May. Madame Fu’s stunning ‘pink’ room was the venue and our lucky winners enjoyed a smorgasbord of dumplings as well as a fun chat.

Congratulations also to Mel Ganie who walked away with a gorgeous Mary + Marie beach bag in March. Katrina Kon won a stunning Bella Blu Panama hat in April. Kim Lau won a Jetkids Bedbox donated by Wander Cubs in May. And Anna van Veluw won the competition published in the Spring issue of Hong Kong Family Traveller for three nights at the new Avani+Samui resort in Koh Samui.

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The winners were: Myriam and Dermot Mwizerw; Sandra Boch; Hei Lun Mak; Sharyn Ridley; Sandra Scanlon; Trish O’Kane; Samantha Caccia; Christelle Davis; Glen Lloyd; Di Walters; Veronica Bennett; Sin and Betty Fu; Janine and Andy Davies; Lisa Voyles and Justine Reef.

To take part in our regular competitions, sign-up for our Newsletter at hongkongfamilytraveller.com

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H K T RAVE L L I NG M UM

Taking charge Finding the perfect holiday for the whole family is tougher than first imagined, discovers our mum

ack in the good old days, when the children were still toddling around in nappies and watching The Wiggles, myself and my husband got to choose where we went on holiday each year. Sometimes several times a year, if he’d had a good bonus and I’d managed to stay away from Net a Porter. Anyway, the point is, if we decided we wanted to plonk ourselves on a lounger somewhere sunny for a few days, that’s what we booked. And if we were feeling slightly more self-destructive and wanted to opt for a more cultured city-break with the kids, that’s exactly what we would do. True, there was a downside to all this hedonistic holidaying, like entertaining small children, remembering umpteen bits of baby kit and enduring long-haul flights playing endless rounds of Peppa Pig Snap. But at least We Were In Charge. These days, the children are more interested in sunbathing than Snap and actively request seating away from their parents when checking-in at Chek Lap Kok. Which you would think might mean a much easier life. But no. Unfortunately we are now dominated by children who Run Their Own Lives. I have discovered that when your offspring reach about 11 or 12 years of age, they stop relying on you for treats and fun days out. Instead, they take it upon themselves to organise their own activity schedule. Which is both good and bad. Good in that I’m not endlessly WhatsApping

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other mothers about playdates and trips to Ryze, but bad in that I can no longer dictate our summer holiday. My offer of a villa in Puglia with educational-yet-fun side trips to local towns and sites of

tournament from now until then and can’t possibly miss the finals, which we are very likely to win.” “We need to be home for July 21 because I’ve been selected for a rugby tour to the UK,” says the Teen Child.

HK Travelling Mum lives in Hong Kong with her four travelloving children and a weary husband

cultural interest is met with sighs of “oh my god mum, Europe is so boring.” Greece raises a flicker of interest but I get a bit lost trying to work out which islands aren’t blown away by the Meltemi wind and how we’re all going to schlep from Heathrow to Gatwick to pick up the transfer flight. It all gets a bit much, so in a moment of clarity I suggest Bali. Brilliant, they all cry. It’s got shopping and it’s got surfing and it’s got a waterpark - and for an added bonus, there’s no jet-lag. What more could two tweens and two teens ask for? Well, apparently the ‘right’ dates. “We can’t go until July 18,” the Sporty Child states firmly. “I am in a weekly netball

“And I have Clemmie’s sleepover junk birthday party on July 6,” adds the Blonde Child. “I can come anytime,” the Boy Child proffers helpfully. I love him so much. Bearing in mind that these days I am juggling three different schools and three wildly differing ‘back to school’ dates, I’m beginning to wish I’d never suggested going away. The Sporty Child and the Boy Child return at the end of July, the Teen Child in mid-August and the Blonde Child to boarding school sometime in the autumn (it’s so far away I can’t even begin to remember when it is exactly). “But if we don’t leave until July 18, we’ll only have three

days on holiday,” I point out quite reasonably to the Sporty Child. “Unless you can miss the first couple of weeks back?” I add hopefully. But then I remember about the Teen Child’s rugby tour. Oh good god, I think, sinking my head into my hands. Surely it can’t be this hard to arrange a couple of weeks away? My next bright idea is to stay home in the summer and take our family break in the autumn holidays instead. But then I remember, the Boy Child and the Sporty Child have their school half-term in the last week in September, the Teen Child is off the second week in October and the Blonde Child doesn’t break up until November. “If you need me to miss school, that’s ok,” the Boy Child adds, again, very helpfully. I give him a kiss and tell him he shouldn’t really be skipping class. “Autumn?” says my husband when I relate my tale of woeful holiday booking attempts that evening. “But I’ve already booked tickets for the rugby world cup. I’m taking the kids to Japan.” “Oh yay!” the four children reply in unison. Dad has apparently nailed it in one. I slink off to my bedroom. I am such a failure as a mother. And then I brighten. If the kids and my husband are all away, that leaves me a whole week in which to play. A quick WhatsApp message unearths a plethora of fellow rugby widows. Gosh, what to do? Well, Bali, of course, back to Plan A. It’s got shopping and it’s got spas and it’s got cocktails - what more could a bunch of weary mums ask for?

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