Hong Kong Family Traveller Autumn 2019 by Asia Family Traveller

ASIAN ADVENTURES ► camping in Cambodia ► uncovering rural China ► beach holidays for half-term

Exploring the Indian Ocean from Western Australia to The Maldives

Harvest festivals the best of Asia’s seasonal celebrations

+PLUS+ Ski Japan

- where to book this winter Hong Kong Family Traveller 1

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OUR TEAM Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongfamilytraveller.com

Consulting Editor Adele Brunner

Art Director Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongfamilytraveller.com

Director of Marketing & Partnership Sales Rosemary Jean Torrance rose@hongkongfamilytraveller.com

Classified Sales Sara Hopkirk hello@hongkongfamilytraveller.com

Web Design & Technical Support TeamAlfy.com

Online hongkongfamilytraveller.com Facebook @HongKongFamilyTraveller Instagram @hongkogfamilytraveller Twitter @family_kong Hong Kong Family Traveller is published bi-monthly by Penn & Ink Communications Limited. The content provided here is the property of Penn & Ink Communications Limited and no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the Publisher. While the editors do their best to verify information published, Penn & Ink Communications Limited, its editors and its writers do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. The information provided by Penn & Ink Communications Limited’s contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the company. The information here is provided in good faith but Penn & Ink Communications Limited bears no responsibility or liability for any recommendations or advice offered.

hello

from the editor’s desk

s I write, Hong Kong airport has been shut for another day and all flights cancelled. These events - and the nagging concern that I may not make my upcoming flight to London - make me realise more than ever just how lucky we are, living in a corner of the world where travel is (usually) so effortless. We have countless, amazing destinations just a few hours away and with a raft of quality airlines to choose from, all of whom depart from a sleek and efficient airport. It’s no surprise really why travel is such an integral part of our lives. This issue we’ve taken a look at what’s happening with our Asian neighbours. Travel correspondent Catharine Nicol checks out three new resorts in southern Cambodia, one with all the makings of a perfect retreat for adventurous teens. And we also step back in time in rural China. Crossing the Indian Ocean, there are stops in both The Maldives and Western Australia. Freelance travel writer Carolyn Beasley gets up close-andpersonal with the native wildlife in Australia’s Golden State on an adventure holiday that would be

fabulous for animal-loving kids. With mid-term break coming up, we’ve also taken a look at some sunny mid-haul destinations in our news section, perfect for a beach-booster before winter closes in. So happy travels, have a great mid-term break (it seems like we only just got back from summer holidays!) and we hope you enjoy the issue.

Contributors

CAROLYN BEASLEY

CATHARINE NICOL

Travel writer Carolyn Beasley takes a trip Down Under to meet the Aussie natives - turn to page 44.

Travel correspondent Catharine Nicol reports back on a trip to southern Cambodia - turn to page 32.

Where was your best ever family holiday? Sri Lanka is an adventurous family’s dream - it’s a giant fragrant curry pot filled with crumbling ruins, friendly smiles and elephants; where trains speed through tea plantations and surf-breaks front luxury villas. One visit is never enough!

What’s your next big trip? My bucket list for the rest of the year is an adventure trip to Bhutan for hiking and happiness, a spicy Christmas in Bangkok visiting family and a January wellness retreat to start the year in the best way possible.

@familyecotravel

@spasandbeyond Hong Kong Family Traveller 3

CONTENTS

REGULARS On the cover

Top tips for travelling families in Fiji, Malaysia and Sydney

Weather Watch

Reading Matter

Travel the world with a book

Bucket List

Why Kathmandu should be on your list

Hot & Happening

Where to get your party on this autumn

Wellness Travel

Walking in South Africa plus autumn’s top retreats

Dining Adventures

Where to head and where to avoid in Asia this autumn

On Our Radar What we’re excited about this season

Honing in on Hong Kong’s top tables

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Travel Sage

The latest travel news plus special autumn offers

Welcome to our third issue where we’ll be checking out a host of Asian getaways - including southern Cambodia’s newest resorts, adventures in rural China and heaps of holiday offers in southeast Asia, perfect for half-term holidays.

Travel News

Grown-up Getaways Exploring rural China by train

Hong Kong Travelling Mum Keeping up with the kids

IN THIS ISSUE Autumn | 2019

FEATURES 32

Focus - Southern Cambodia

The Maldives

Diving into the big blue

Western Australia

Where dolphins roam

Me? Ski?

The country’s best new resorts

Navigating Hokkaido’s up-coming ski season

Takeaways this issue

You can now ‘glamp’ on the beach in southeast Asia. Find out where on page 6. Somewhere in the world you can spend HK$4,700 on one pot of tea. Get sipping on page 63. Check-in at this resort means ziplining over the jungle into reception. Details on page 36. China’s ‘least fashionable southwest province’ is absolutely worth a visit. Find out why on page 66. It takes 18-months to grow about an inch of coral. One resort is trying hard with its reefs, see page 38.

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TRAVEL NEWS 06

Sri Lanka has waived its visa fees in an effort to woo back the tourists

(Pictured) Balangan Beach on Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s south coast has lots going on for kids this autumn

Dream Cruises is set to launch some of the largest family cabins in the cruise industry

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I N T H E K NOW The Sri Lankan government has announced that it will waive the country’s existing visa fee for arrivals from 48 countries. The move was introduced earlier this summer and will apply to both tourists and business travellers to Sri Lanka. It is hoped the new arrangement will help attract tourists back to the country,

following militant attacks in April which killed more than 250 people, including 42 foreign nationals. Several countries issued travel advisories immediately after the attacks, which led to a sharp drop in visitor arrivals. Foreign visitor numbers in May plunged more than 70% to the lowest level since the end of Sri Lanka’s civil

war a decade ago. Before the attacks, tourism was Sri Lanka’s third largest industry and a vital boost to the local economy. Tourist visas to Sri Lanka cost from US$20 and could be applied for online or through embassies and consulates. It is hoped that by waiving the visa requirement travel arrangements will be less complicated and

therefore more attractive. The visa-free arrangement was introduced on August 1 and will remain in place for six months. It applies to nationals from US, Canada, UK, European Union nations, Australia, New Zealand, Russia, Singapore, Malaysia, South Korea, Cambodia, Thailand, China, India and Indonesia.

GLAMPING FUN Bintan Island has welcomed its first ‘glamping’ resort. ‘Glamorous camping’ has become increasingly popular with luxe adventure-seeking families. Natra Bintan boasts 100 safari-style tents; each tent is decked out with a garden, patio, four-poster bed, air con, LCD TV and Wi-Fi. The tents are pitched in Chill Cove at Treasure Bay, a serene lagoon with plenty 8 Hong Kong Family Traveller

of watersports sure to keep campers happy. For younger glampers, the resort offers plenty of kid-friendly games and activities - look out for the resort’s all-inclusive packages. Bintan Island is located off the coast of Singapore with regular daily ferry services from the Lion City’s Tanah Merah Port.

Photo courtesy Sarah Clarke

SRI LANKA OFFERS VISA-FREE TRAVEL

I N T H E K NOW

TURTLE-Y FUN Belmond Jimbaran Puri on Bali’s south coast has introduced a new menu of activities for kids of all ages. All-action adventures include a three-night Hidden Gems itinerary with cycle tour, visits to Jimbaran markets and local temples and a full-day cruise aboard the resort’s private launch. Back at the resort, littlies can enjoy canang sari making, Balinese egg painting and kite making, plus cookery, bike-rides and water-sports. And for nature lovers, there are excursions to the Turtle Conservation & Education Centre in Serangan where guests can adopt, name and release a baby sea turtle. Sunset cruises are available to give the hatchlings a helping hand into the ocean.

GREAT GAMES IN VIETNAM

BATHROOM REVOLUTION

Vietnam’s Melia Ho Tram Beach Resort has launched a familyfocused holiday package. The ‘Family Forever’ getaway includes fun activities such as lantern-making, pool parties, an outdoor cinema and a family Olympic games event. The 17-hectare resort offers ‘Level Villas’ - two-, three- and four-bedroom properties with private pools, BBQ areas, outdoor showers and separate living and dining areas. The Level threeand four-bedroom villas front onto the beach with access to a private pool and beach club. Further activities to keep families busy at the resort include kayaking, cycling and paddle board and tennis lessons. The Family Forever package is offered as part of a minimum two-day, one-night stay in any of The Level villas.

InterContinental Hotels Group has announced it will be replacing bathroom miniatures with more environmentally-friendly bulk-size bathroom shower gels, shampoos and conditioners in all of its hotels. The global group, known as IHG, owns more than 5,600 hotels worldwide, with a portfolio that includes Six Senses, InterContinental, Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn. This equates to almost 843,000 guest rooms and around 200 million bathroom miniatures each year. It is anticipated that the transition will be completed by 2021. Several IHG brands already use bulk-size amenities, including Six Senses Resorts Spas, which top-up ceramic dispensers with bathroom product in all of its properties.

Photo courtesy of Chris Jansen & Live Ningaloo

HUMP DAY Western Australia’s humpback whale season runs until the end of October. At Ningaloo Marine Park, whales are located by spotter planes, who then communicate with the boat’s head guide, allowing visitors to successfully swim with or observe them. The marine park’s Coral Bay opened its whale watching season on July 1 and says the addition of in-water communications between spotter plane pilots and head guides has increased interaction success rates to 90%. Exmouth began its season on August 1. Humpback whales are found in all of the world’s oceans but there are only three countries in the world where you can swim with them, of which Australia is one. For more information, see australiascoralcoast.com Hong Kong Family Traveller 9

I N T H E K NOW

NEW CRUISE CLASS UNVEILED

in brief...

Dream Cruises by Genting Cruise Lines has announced details of a new fleet of family-friendly cruise ships. Its Global Class liners will accommodate up to 9,000 passengers, making them the largest in the world by passenger capacity. They are due to launch in 2021 with a heap of on-board entertainment. The ships will also offer luxury Global Class family-friendly cabins which will be among the industry’s largest. The cabins are designed for two but can accommodate up to four, with a fold-away sofa bed. The space also boasts a separate bathroom and toilet and a ‘privacy curtain’ that can be drawn to

divide the room into separate seating and sleeping areas. State-of-the-art technology includes Bluetooth locks and a smart system which means guests can use a smartphone app, voice recognition or a touch-screen panel to control the LED mood lighting and room temperature. Smart sensors can detect guest occupancy in the cabin and adjust lighting and temperature accordingly for better energy efficiency. This year Genting Cruise Lines celebrates 25 years of operations in China’s Greater Bay Area and Greater China Ports Development.

...From October 1, visitors to New Zealand from visa waiver countries - which includes Hong Kong residents with HKSAR or British National-Overseas passports - will require a NZeTA (New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority). For full details, see immigration.govt.nz ...Cathay Pacific has completed its acquisition of Hong Kong Express Airways, known as HK Express. According to Cathay, HK Express will continue to operate as a stand-alone airline using the low-cost carrier business model. For passengers this will hopefully translate into more destinations and lowcost fares. ...Raffles Singapore (pictured) is back, following a two-year refurbishment. The gleaming property boasts new suites, a revamped pool area, a new French restaurant - even the hotel’s infamous Singapore Sling has had a makeover, with less sugar and more alcohol the order of the day. Special opening packages are available on stays until October 31.

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BEACHED IN MOZAMBIQUE Stretch out on some of the world’s most beautiful beaches in Mozambique. Not only that, whale watching season is now in full swing. Humpback whales can be seen in the Bazaratu and Quirimbas Archipelagos from July to October and in the open waters of Mozambique from October to December.

Making the most of its prime wildlife viewing position, Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort is offering a Journey of the Whales package including accommodation, a guided whale watching expedition, snorkelling and a BBQ picnic on Pansy Island.

I N T H E K NOW

SPANISH STEPS FOR ANANTARA Golf, spa, tennis, swimming - Anantara group’s recently launched Villa Padierna Palace Benahavis Marbella Resort has a lot up its palatial sleeves. This is the first time the Anantara brand has moved into Spain and the stunning, British architect-designed Andalusian property is set amidst rolling hills overlooking the Mediterranean. On a clear day, you can see Morocco on the horizon. First up, there’s a Kids Club, which means there’s plenty of opportunity for grown ups to head off and enjoy the facilities. Younger guests can expect mini bathrobes, toiletries, bedtime treats, a welcome gift and there are kid-friendly menus in most of the hotel’s restaurants.

For parents, there are no less than three world class golf courses at the resort, plus a racquet club, a spa and an outdoor pool. The spa offers ten treatment rooms, as well as a hydrotherapy circuit, a

Hammam and aromatherapy steam rooms. Customised golf massages are also available for those returning from Marbella’s ‘golden triangle’ golfing region. The three, 18-hole courses of Villa Padierna Golf Club envelope the property and

there are three further courses nearby. Anantara Villa Padierna Palace has 132 guest rooms, suites and pool villas. Each of the nine one- and two-bedroom villas comes with a butler service and a private pool.

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I N T H E K NOW

BEAUTIFUL BLOOMS As spring bursts into life in Australia, so too does ‘Jacaranda season’. The stunning blooms can be viewed across Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Perth and Melbourne, while Grafton in New South Wales goes to town with an annual Jacaranda Festival. Grafton locals have been celebrating the jacarandas that line the country town’s avenues since the 1930s, making it the longest-running floral festival in the country. Think nine days of street parades, parties, music, dragon boat racing and feasting. This year’s Grafton Jacaranda Festival takes place from October 25 to November 3.

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AUST RAL I A Hong Kong Family Traveller 13

I N T H E K NOW

CITY LIMITS Enjoy a bird’s eye view of the stunning city we call home. Ovolo Central is taking to the skies with a The Sky’s The Limit staycation promotion, offering guests the opportunity to take a chartered helicopter ride over one of the most breathtaking city views in the world. It in the 1880s, Hong Kong was nothing more than a rocky coastline, but by the 1900s Victoria

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- the area that is today known as Central - began creeping up The Peak from the harbour. Large scale development didn’t take place until the 1960s when the city transformed into a manufacturing hub and the high rise started to rise. In 2010, the International Commerce Centre (ICC) in Kowloon became Hong Kong’s tallest skyscraper.

The staycation package includes complimentary transfers to and from the 18-minute helicopter tour, as well as pre-flight cocktails . Back at Ovolo Central, guests will also get to tuck into the hotel’s newly launched afternoon tea in the hotel’s vegetarian restaurant, VEDA, along with a bottle of champagne.

H O NG KO NG Hong Kong Family Traveller 15

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Photo cradit to David Leverne

I N T H E K NOW

E NG L AND

MIND THE GAP Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tintagel Castle on the rugged Cornish coast has reopened following a lengthy ÂŁ3m bridge-building project. The new bridge links the medieval castle with the mainland for the first time in 500 years. Tintagel Castle has long been associated with the mythical legend of King Arthur and the knights of the round table. The 68-metre bridge means visitors to the castle will no longer be faced with climbing 148 steps to reach the attraction. The site is owned by the Prince of Wales and managed by English Heritage.

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WE AT H E R

Asia weather watch Brolly or bikini? What to pack this autumn

Cambodia

Rainfall is high in September this time of year is also referred to as ‘green season’ when flora and fauna is in full bloom. By October, the rainfall is starting to reduce, particularly on the south coast. By the end of October, the dry season has begun and the country is at its colourful best.

The Philippines

It’s a wet story in The Philippines as well, with lots of heavy rainfall in September and a high chance of typhoons. Temperatures do reduce a little and the best of the weather is to be found in the south and east, including Cebu and Bohol. By the end of October, the worst of the rainy season is over, although it can remain very wet in some areas.

Hong Kong

It remains hot throughout September, although by the end of the month the winds start to change and cooler weather blows in. The good news is the humidity also drops, the bad news is that there is still a good chance of a typhoon or two rolling in. October sees more blue skies, dry conditions and lower temperatures and humidity.

Vietnam

Laos

In the centre of the country (including Hue and Hoi An), rain increases slightly in September and temperatures dip a little. Nha Trang, Dalat and the Central Highlands also become wetter. It’s the opposite story in the north however, where rainfall is starting to drop-off moving into October. There’s plenty of hot weather all over the country, but expect temperatures to start falling in the north. In the south, rainfall will begin to decrease and temperatures remain high.

September is one of the wettest months and travel to more remote regions can be difficult at times. Rivers and waterfalls are at their most impressive and the rain begins to subside moving into October. Low visitor numbers and improved weather make October a great time to visit.

Thailand

Sri Lanka

Singapore

September is traditionally the wettest month of the year for Thailand and also expect peak humidity. Not really beach weather, but if you want to take your chances, look out for cheaper hotel deals. Rainfall does start to decline in October, although it can remain wet on both sides of the peninsula.

Expect high levels of rainfall on the western and southern coasts and in Tea Country. Swimming in the ocean is not recommended. Cyclones can also blow up, particularly towards the end of September and into October and November. Enjoy the last of the sunshine on the east coast as rain moves in at the end of September. October tends to be the wettest month of the year across the entire country.

Hot, humid and with a chance of the odd thunderstorm. Who doesn’t love a monoclimate?! Expect plenty of sunshine at this time of year.

Indonesia

Malaysia

Enjoy dry, sunny days with plenty of blue skies, although the dry season is beginning to draw to a close towards the end of September. If you’re on the hunt for an autumn beach holiday in southeast Asia, Indonesia is probably the top pick. Tourist numbers are also slightly reduced at this time of year. October is the hottest month of the year and rain clouds start to gather as the country moves into wet season.

September brings a change in the weather for the whole peninsula - rain starts to subside on the east coast (Langkawi and Penang), while the winds of the north-east monsoon can bring choppy sea conditions and cooler temperatures to the west coast (Tioman and Perhentian Islands). Moving into October, Langkawi and Penang are battered with the heaviest rainfall of the year and the east coast sees rougher sea conditions and a drop in temperature.

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H OT L I ST

On our radar

What we’re excited about this autumn

Kids will love this new live production coming to Hong Kong, Where is Peter Rabbit? See your favourite Beatrix Potter characters come to life on stage. The show runs September 27 to October 6 at Drama Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai. Tickets available now from hkticketing.com

Penhaligon’s Elisabethan Rose eau de parfum 10ml spritz bottle is perfectly sized for travel bags. The British perfumer has also updated the scent, with top notes of hazelnut leaf, almond and cinnamon and red lily and rose. Available from Penhaligon stores in Harbour City and ifc shopping malls.

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Frame those precious holiday memories with a stunning new collection of jewel tone picture frames from British designer Katharine Pooley. We’re loving this sweet Pink Shagreen line. Available from Katharine Pooley Boutique, katharinepooley.com.

Following a massive UK tour, Madagascar the Musical is hitting Hong Kong this autumn. Follow the adventures of Alex and his Central Park Zoo friends live on stage, with fabulous costumes and scenery. The musical runs September 12-15, at Lyric Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai. Tickets from hkticketing.com

Travel luggage specialist TUMI has opened a new store in Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay district. Pop along to check out the brand’s new autumn collection. Shop 405, 4/F Times Square, Causeway Bay. Rituals Cosmetics has landed in Hong Kong. This is the brand’s first foray into Asia and the Times Square store will stock a sweet range from its bodycare and homeware collections. Head over to Shop B221B, Basement 2, Times Square, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay.

Swedish stationner Kikki K has opened its fourth Hong Kong store. The new branch is located in Hong Kong station check it out for fun travel collections, perfect for aspiring scrapbookers.

New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) Design Store has launched in Greater China for the first time with an opening in Hong Kong. The store will carry a range of global design objects and gifts inspired by MoMA’s collections. Check it out at K11 MUSEA, part of the Victoria Dockside development in Tsim Sha Tsui.

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H OT L I ST

Aman Skincare has launched Miracle Mud Mask, a perfect post-summer pick-me-up for sun-drenched skin. Key ingredients include black Peruvian mud and cactus oil, plus a rejuvenating combination of mineral salts. Available online at aman.com/skincare or from Aman resort boutiques.

TRAVEL ADVICE

The travel sage Got a travel dilemma? Ask our guru Take a break in beautiful Batu Batu, Malaysia

Q&A 22 Hong Kong Family Traveller

DEAR MARIANNE Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re spending October half-term in Sydney - how to approach the city with kids? I think Darling Harbour is a great location for families to stay in Sydney. There are lots of familyfriendly restaurants here, and plenty of attractions, such as the SeaLife Aquarium, the Wildlife Sydney Zoo and the Maritime Museum. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the brilliant Darling Harbour playground for running off extra energy. You can also walk up into the CBD easily from here, or catch

the ferry round to Circular Quay or across to Taronga Zoo or Manly. Darling Harbour has a good choice of accommodation, including a Sofitel, Novotel and Hyatt Regency, plus several serviced apartments if you want more space. There are so many great family days out to choose from in Sydney! Taronga Zoo is always a hit with the kids. Take the ferry

Alternatively, hop on a bus to Bondi Beach and have lunch at the iconic Icebergs before walking it off on the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk. With small kids you will probably only want to go as far as Bronte, where there is a nice calm beach and a large park with a playground.

Sydney’s Taronga Zoo

DEAR MARIANNE

DEAR MARIANNE We’re a family flying to Fiji, where’s best to stay with kids in tow? The first choice to make is whether to stay on the islands or mainland. If you want the quintessential white sandy beach holiday, then you need to head out to the islands. If you prefer a more active holiday exploring, then you are better to be on the mainland. Lots of families choose Denarau Island as a compromise as it is close to the airport yet has easy access to the islands for day trips. With kids I would look at Castaway Island or Malolo Island Resort. Both have that Fiji island holiday feel with family facilities, including amazing kids clubs. You can reach both via ferry from Denarau (around 1.5 hours) or take a seaplane or helicopter from the airport (around 10 minutes). In Denarau, popular family resorts include the Sofitel, Radisson Blu and Sheraton Denarau Villas.

There are some really fun things to do in Fiji apart from watersports and lying on the beach. There’s the Fiji Zipline and Kula Wildlife Park and the Sigatoka River Safari, which takes you to a local village via jet boat. For something really different check out Ecotrax Fiji, a fun sightseeing tour that takes you on modified electric bikes along disused rail tracks to get a close up look of the local countryside. Even if you stay on the mainland, there is a good choice of day trips you can do out to the islands. Mala Mala Beach Club is a day island destination, or you can spend a day at one of the island resorts. For a real Robinson Crusoe experience, book a day trip to Modriki Island – the setting of Tom Hanks’ Castaway movie.

What are your top island picks for Malaysia? Firstly, you need to consider the weather and the time of year you are travelling as the east coast and west coast of Malaysia have two different weather systems. Wet season on the east coast runs from November to February, but at the same time it’s dry season on the west coast. Conversely, the wettest months on the west coast are April to October, which are the driest months on the east coast. My pick in the west would be Langkawi. It has amazing natural beauty with all its protected rainforest, abundant wildlife and beautiful beaches. Beyond the beach there is loads to do to keep the family entertained, including mangrove tours, kayaking and jet ski tours,

and the brilliant SkyBridge – the world’s longest curved suspension bridge that floats 100m above the rainforest. Access to the bridge is via a 15-minute ride aboard one of the world’s steepest cable cars. On the east coast, my favourite is the small island resort Batu Batu. Here you will find 22 air-conditioned villas accessed via sandy pathways through the coconut trees, amazing white sandy beaches and some of the clearest water in Asia. You can spend your days snorkelling, stand up paddleboarding, chilling out in the ocean-facing infinity pool or learning about the endangered Hawksbill and Green turtles at the onsite turtle hatchery.

YOU’LL FIND PATHWAYS THROUGH COCONUT TREES, AMAZING WHITE SANDY BEACHES AND SOME OF THE CLEAREST WATER IN ASIA Batu Batu is reached via speedboat from Mersing – you can arrange for a driver to pick you up in Singapore to transfer you the 3 hours to Mersing.

MARIANNE ROGERSON The travel blogger has lived all over the world and is a presenter of the podcast City Travel With Kids. Email your questions to hello@mariannerogerson.com. or follow her at mumonthemove.com

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TRAVEL ADVICE

across the harbour and enter via the cable car for great views back across to the city. Another fun trip via ferry is to go to Manly, where you can stroll along the famous beach to Shelly Beach and have lunch at the Boathouse there. Or head to Watsons Bay for fish & chips at Doyles on the Beach.

READING MATTER

New releases The Giver of Stars

Paris Echo

Jojo Moyes

Sebastian Faulks

The new, standalone novel from the number one bestselling author of Me Before You. It’s the late 1930s in England and Alice Wright makes an impulsive decision to marry a wealthy American. But stuffy Baileyville, Kentucky, where her husband disappears into his work and she is dominated by her overbearing father-in-law, is not quite what she’d dreamed of. Until she meets Margery O’Hare, daughter of a notorious felon and a woman the town wishes to forget.

Set between Tangier and Paris, between the present day and the second world war, Paris Echo follows the story of American academic Hannah and runaway Moroccan teenager Tariq. They have little in common but both find themselves haunted by the ghosts of Paris. Tariq searches for a mother he barely knew in the migrant suburbs of the city while Hannah listens to the stories of women living under the German Occupation. How much do we really need to know in order to live a valuable life?

This autumn’s best travel tales Epic Runs of the World

One More Croissant For The Road

Lonely Planet

Felicity Cloake

If you need persuading out of your armchair this autumn, this is the book to do it. This photographic, hardback publication covers 50 of the world’s greatest running routes, from short city-runs to cross-country and ultra-marathons. There are a further 150 courses around the world aimed at runners of all abilities. Each run is accompanied by photos, a map and a toolkit of practical details, such as how to get there and where to stay. Asian runs include The Great Wall Marathon in China, Angkor Wat Half Marathon in Cambodia, A Temple Ascent in Pokhara, Nepal, and Kyoto’s Riverside in Japan.

Viva Italia Photographer Gray Malin captures the coasts, beaches and landscapes of Italy in all their sun-soaked glory. From happy beachgoers, to retro beach umbrellas and luxury motor boats, Malin celebrates what it is to be on the decadent Italian Riviera over the summer. Destinations captured include the Amalfi coast and the dramatic scenery of Cinque Terre. “Italy is like an ice cream cone on a hot day in July,” he writes in his introduction. “Nearly impossible to resist, and when finished you’re still craving more.” Gray Malin: Italy, Abrams

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A delicious travelogue and recipe book dedicated to that most culinary of countries, France. Cloake cycles 2,300km across the country, uncovering each region’s classic signature dish. From Tarte Tatin to Cassoulet and Poule au Pot, and from beach to mountain, Atlantic to Mediterranean via the Pyrenees, each of the 21 ‘stages’ of her tour de France concludes with lunch and a fresh recipe for each dish. “Whether you’re an avid cyclist, a Francophile, a greedy gut, or simply an appreciator of impeccable writing - this book with get you hooked,” enthuses Yotam Ottolenghi. Bon appetit!

Lunch at 10 Pomegranate Street: a collection of recipes to share

The Tao of Pooh & The Te of Piglet

The Pigeon Has To Go To School!

Benjamin Hoff

Mo Willems

Felicity Sala

A unique, child-friendly introduction to the principles of Taoism with Winniethe-Pooh and Piglet. Author Benjamin Hoff’s explanations of Taoism and Te through Pooh and Piglet, show that this is not an ancient and remote philosophy, but something that you can use today. Beautifully illustrated by E H Shepard.

Summer holidays are over and the first day of school has arrived for many children. But should the pigeon go to school? Why? He already knows everything! And what if he doesn’t like it? What if he learns TOO much? A fun picture book for settling school-induced nerves.

A Wild Child’s Guide To Endangered Animals

A is for Australia

Millie Marotta

An illustrated picture book perfect for introducing the land down under to littlies. What is the Fremantle Doctor? Why are some islands named after the days of the week? These and many more Aussie-based questions are answered as readers are taken from Bondi to Kakadu.

In each apartment at 10 Pomegranate Street someone is preparing a special dish to share with their neighbours. Mr Singh is making coconut dahl and his daughter Maria is mashing avocados for guacamole. A deliciously illustrated tale of community and yummy food from around the world.

Bluey: The Beach Bluey Join the ever-popular Bluey on a trip to the beach with this fun, lift-the-flap book. Bluey has aired on Australia’s ABC Kids channel since October 2018 and has become one of the most-watched TV shows ever.

LANDMARK PRINCE’S Shop 326-328, 3/F Landmark Prince’s Building 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2522 1785

ifc MALL Shop 3092C, Podium Level 3 8 Finance Street, Central Tel: 2813 2770

Frane Lessac

An illustrated guide to the animals that are most at risk of disappearing from our world forever. From oceans to forests and mountains and snow, the facts, tales and illustrations beautifully open up the world of the animal kingdom to young readers.

EXCHANGE SQUARE Shop 305-07 One Exchange Square Central Tel: 2542 1133

LYNDHURST TERRACE Shop 1, G/F, 46 Lyndhurst Terrace Central Tel: 2970 3999

THREE PACIFIC PLACE Shop 4, Level B3 Three Pacific Place Wan Chai Tel: 2997 3018

TIMES SQUARE Shop 925, 9/F Times Square Causeway Bay Tel: 2521 1649

REPULSE BAY G/F, Shop G107C-D The Repulse Bay Arcade Repulse Bay Tel: 2750 1136

DISCOVERY BAY Shop 104B, Block A 1/F, DB Main Plaza Lantau Island Tel: 2987 1373

FESTIVAL WALK Shop UG-46 80 Tat Chee Avenue Kowloon Tong Tel: 2808 1901

www.bookazine.com.hk Hong Kong Family Traveller 25

READING MATTER

The wonders of the world for kids

26 Hong Kong Family Traveller

BUCK E T L I ST

Monkeys and monuments in Kathmandu

Marriott has opened its first property in Nepal’s capital. Here’s why the city should be on your bucket list...

1 Embrace the serenity at Garden of Dreams An oasis of green in the centre of Kathmandu, the gardens were built in 1920 and contain 8,000 square metres of gardens, plus three pavilions, an ampi-theatre, ponds and pergolas. They fell into neglect in the 1960s but have recently been restored in partnership with the Austrian government and returned to something of their former glory. Otherwise known as Kathmandu’s

2 Swoop up Chandragiri Hills in a cable car Jump on a cable car to enjoy superb views over Kathmandu Valley from Chandragiri, which lies at 2,500m above sea level. The two-and-a-half kilometre cable car journey starts at Godam at the bottom and rises through the forests to Chandragiri at the top.

3 Stroll Durbar Square Durbar Square means Royal Square and describes the plazas and structures adjacent to the Royal Palaces of Nepal. Kathmandu Durbar Square is the UNESCO-listed heart of the old city, was once a royal residence and is today a vibrant public square. It’s also something of an openair museum, with one of the world’s highest concentrations of well-preserved ancient buildings. It was damaged during the 2015 earthquakes, but there is still a lot to see.

5 Chatter with the monkeys at Swayambhunath Monkey Temple, Swayambhunath is a stunning monument on a hill, from which four faces of the Buddha stare out across the valley. The site was shaken by the 2015 earthquake but the main stupa thankfully sustained only superficial damage.

6 Shop till you drop Head to the Thamel area of the city to stock up on silky soft pashminas, stunning Thangka paintings, singing bowls, beads and jewellery and Nepali handicrafts - including puppets and dolls, prayer wheels, pottery and other homewares.

Marriott Kathmandu With Himalayan views and luxe facilities (including a spa and outdoor pool), this handily-located hotel is walking distance from the Garden of Dreams and popular dining and shopping area, Durbarmarg Street.

4 Tuck into a momo Momos are Nepal’s answer to the dumpling; moorish steamed buns with juicy fillings of cheese, vegetables or meat. They’re a staple in Nepal, can be eaten any time and are comfort food at its best.

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H OT & H A PPE NI NG 28 Hong Kong Family Traveller

As summer bows out, autumn blows in, bringing with it a raft of regional festivals

Chinese National Day celebrates the foundation of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 and is one of seven national holidays in China. In mainland China, National Day lasts for three days and is a ‘golden week’, meaning people get a seven-day holiday, combining the weekends on either side. In the county of Yangshuo just south of Guilin, people enjoy the break by setting sail on the picturesque Yulong River on bamboo rafts. Yangshuo is one of the most visited destinations in China, boasting breathtaking scenery and a diverse range of cultures. National Day is celebrated on October 1 and this year it marks 70 years since the formal establishment of the People’s Republic of China.

DIWALI, INDIA Diwali, the Indian festival of lights, is celebrated on the 15th day of Kartik, the holiest month in the Hindu lunar calendar, which falls in either October or November. It’s one of the most important celebrations in the country and fetes the triumph of light over darkness and good over evil. It starts at the end of the harvesting season and is often associated with wealth and happiness. This year, festivities take place on October 27.

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H OT & H APPE NI NG

Let’s celebrate

NATIONAL DAY, CHINA (MAIN PICTURE)

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The festival is unique to northern Thailand and was originally a celebration to mark the end of the rainy season and the start of the cool season. These days it takes place at the same time as Loy Krathong; ‘loy’ meaning to float and ‘krathong’ being small rafts or baskets made from banana leaves. These vessels are set afloat containing a candle, incense stick and flowers and are believed to carry away bad luck. During Yi Peng, lanterns and candles are lit and placed in the entrances to shops, homes and temples. In Buddhist culture, the light of a lantern represents moving away from darkness and towards a bright future. This year Yi Peng takes place November 11-12.

TAI HANG FIRE DRAGON DANCE, HONG KONG The dance is performed each year during Mid-Autumn Festival to ward off bad luck from the village of Tai Hang, now a bustling suburb in central Hong Kong. Over the last 100 years, the dragon has twisted its way along the village streets and has danced its way onto the Chinese national list of intangible cultural heritage. On the day before MidAutumn Festival, dragon dance participants perform a series of rituals in the local Hakka dialect

at Lin Fa temple in Tai Hang. The dragon then sets off in a whirl of smoke and fire on a three-day performance through Tai Hang’s backstreets. This year the festival takes place from September 12 to 14, setting off at 8.15pm each evening. The best vantage spot is generally considered to be Wun Sha Street. On September 13, there will be an additional performance at Victoria Park at 10.45pm.

MALAYSIA DAY, MALAYSIA Hari Malaysia - Malaysia Day - is celebrated on September 16. It commemorates the formation of Malaysia in 1963 when North Borneo, Sarawak and Singapore federated with the existing states of the Federation of Malaya. It is not to be confused with Malaysia’s National Day which is celebrated on August 31. This is the day when the Federation of Malaya’s independence from the British Empire was officially declared in 1957. Since 2010, Malaysia Day has been a nationwide public holiday. Expect lots of patriotic flag flying and celebration of the various histories and cultures that make up the nation.

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H OT & H APPE NI NG

YI PENG LANTERN FESTIVAL, THAILAND

Giveaway

WIN

one night in a Green Upcycled Room at Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel!

Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel and Hong Kong Family Traveller have partnered to offer this fabulous prize, including: • Complimentary Japanese, Western or Vegetarian set-breakfast for two adults and one child at Cafe Lagoon; or breakfast buffet for two adults and one child. • In-room organic snacks. • Gold Coast Farm tour and complimentary potted plant. • Two outdoor games for one child, including the Gold Coast Ziplines and the Mini Train ride. • One session at “Sharks & Pirates” Adventure Zone. • Access to swimming pools, water slides, water park, outdoor kids island, sandpit and gym. • Complimentary shuttle bus between Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel and TST, Tseun Wan or Tsing Yi. *Competition closes on September 30. The winner will be announced in the Winter issue of Hong Kong Family Traveller, published on November 1. **Please read the full terms and conditions when you sign up.

32 Hong Kong Family Traveller

To enter, sign up at hongkongfamilytraveller.com

FEATURES 32

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happening in southern Cambodia? Exciting new resorts for kids of all ages

The magic of The Maldives approaching its desert island beaches with kids in tow

(Pictured) Off-the-beatentrack adventures in Shark Bay, Western Australia

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F O CUS

F CUS Southern Cambodia

Hopping on a flight to Sihanoukville opens up a host of new resort options. Catharine Nicol heads south for the sandy beaches of Koh Rong and and the wilds of Cardamom National Park. Photography by Catherine Nicol

BEACH BABIES Just ten minutes’ drive from Sihanoukville International Airport - a journey complete with snacks, face mist and sunscreen - and I’m at Alila Villas Koh Russey’s jetty lounge. From there, it’s a fast and (not very) furious 15 minutes speeding over the waves from Cambodia’s mainland to Bamboo Island, the setting for a holiday of fun, beachy luxury. First things first, if your kids like kicking around on a beach, they are going to love this bijou eco-resort. The kilometre of tree-lined, squeaky-sand beach is at the heart of everything you do here: it’s the view you see the 34 Hong Kong Family Traveller

moment you draw your curtains in the morning, it’s your playground and sports centre, it’s where the Beach Shack serves up all-day snacks and cool drinks, and it’s your sunset view from Horizon restaurant as the sun goes down. The sea here in the Koh Rong archipelago is clean, clear, warm and shallow enough to encourage mini swimmers. Everyone will love the two swings for Instagramming holiday-perfect shots, and further out to sea there’s windsurfing, stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking. For laps and wave-free swimming, the huge main infinity pool is beside the restaurant with an army of loungers for settingup-shop during the day, ideal if

you’re staying in a Pavilion room sans pool. The Pavilion rooms come with balconies for first floor rooms and patios for those on the ground floor. I stayed in a one-bedroom beachfront villa - there are also

Top - morning pool views at Alila Villas Koh Russey Above - bobbing around with bubbles on the Gulf of Thailand

CAM B O DIA Clockwise from left - Car-free bliss at Alila Villas Koh Russey; morning meditation on the lawn; watching the waves roll in

THE WATER IS CLEAN, CLEAR, WARM AND two-bedroom versions - which was divine and boasted lots of space, natural materials, plunge pool, alfresco living area and mini lawn to play on. (If you’re travelling with very young, non-swimming children, it’s worth noting that there is no pool fence around the villa pool or privacy from the beach). For multi-generational families or larger groups, the fourbedroom beach villa is a stunning option at the head of the beach. Although there isn’t a Kids Club per se, the itinerary of activities for little ones is extensive and the resort is fantastic for kids. To tire the twinkles out of their toes there’s the adventure walk or beach clean-up race (yes, sadly rubbish does wash up on the beach, but staff do clean it daily) as well as kayaking, snorkelling and boat fishing for older children. Apsara dancing or Khmer

writing adds a splash of local culture to the activity itinerary, and there’s also kids yoga with the resident instructor, Mohit, as well as culinary experiences like Little Chef and Mocktail Making. And Movie Time on the beach after the sun has gone down is the ideal end to a fun day. Mornings are magical times too, strolling along the beach or swimming before anyone else is awake, and ending up at Horizon for breakfast. The resort’s eastmeets-west cuisine covers comfort food, international favourites and Khmer-inspired options, and dishes are made with Cambodiansourced ingredients where possible. Ordering off-menu is always an option for picky eaters. I loved the smoothie bowl and local noodle soup breakfasts, salads and seafood at lunch and French fusion menu at Horizon.

SHALLOW ENOUGH TO ENCOURAGE YOUNG SWIMMERS

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F O CUS The main resort pool at Six Senses Krabey Island

THE EMERALD ISLAND

Relaxing on the resort’s idyllic beach

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On the next island over, and equally easy to get to, is Six Senses Krabey Island. Sustainability is at the core of this brand and it has gently built 40 villas with green roofs, mini herb gardens and plunge pools, within the countless shades of green created by the lush tropical jungle. Most villas have views of the water from on high, and steps lead down to the island’s coast and boardwalk that skirts the boulders. Each morning, I walked the boardwalk from below my onebedroom pool villa to Khmer House, soaking up the dappled sunshine and sound of the waves against the boulders. Climbing the steps from sea level takes you past the main infinity pool to Aha Restaurant for magical

semi-buffet breakfasts. Hot orders include international and local dishes, which change daily – the coconut rice pudding and Banh Chiao crepes were phenomenal. Lunches here cover starters – I learned how to make sashimi of Cobia (a local white fish) with the chef – as well as pasta and noodle dishes, grills and desserts. The service throughout the resort is clearly from the heart. Staff zip guests around in buggies between Khmer House, which soaks up sunsets at the aptlynamed Sunset Bar, past the villas to the other end of the island where Tree Restaurant and the mini beach are. Up in the apex of the island is Six Senses Spa children aged 12 years and up are welcome.

Grow with Six Senses activities take place at the Nest Kids’ Club (10am-noon and 2-5pm), including face painting, smoothie making, Khmer beach games and local wildlife spotting. Watersports are available, with mini-life jackets to keep all ages safe. Children up to five years old eat and sleep for free, while those from six to 11 years get bed and breakfast for free and regular meals at 50% discount and a children’s menu to choose from.

Clockwise from above - spicing it up in the resort restaurants; a beach villa bathroom with ocean views; time for the beach

My favourite spot here was the Alchemy Bar, where guests can grind and mix local ingredients like Kampot pepper, Kep salt and local herbs with other ingredients to make foot soaks and body scrubs. Spoiler alert – it’s hard work but so rewarding to then have a treatment using them. The spa is a village of sanctuary, with fitness and yoga studios, the rooftop for aerial yoga and meditation, plus an organic garden and beautifully designed treatment rooms (minimassages and mani-pedis are on the menu for younger children). That younger generation will

love the mix of sustainable and technical at the resort, with in-room villa services controlled via an iPad. The Safety Turtle bracelet is a great invention; worn as a wristband it sounds an alert as soon as it is submerged. It’s tempting to hibernate in the villa, alternating between the aircon and the pool, but between 11am and 5pm there’s a very good reason to be in and around the main pool at Khmer House. During the hottest part of the day, poolside Double Dip Hangout serves free ice cream and gelato with all sorts of toppings. Hong Kong Family Traveller 37

CAM B O DIA

CHILD’S PLAY

F O CUS

Shake off the sugar high with a wander along the inland path, stopping off for challenges at various jungle gym stops along the way. Alternatively hitch a buggy ride to the mini beach and you’ll find water-based fun for all ages, whether simply hanging out in the cabanas, paddling in the shallows, kayaking or snorkelling. Later on, the Sunset Bar at Khmer House soaks up the last rays of the day, while Tree takes over for Khmer and Southeast Asian dinners. Set above the beach, surrounded by trees, the emphasis is on seafood, including the famous Kampot mud crab, meat dishes like short ribs and organic chicken and international or Khmer desserts. And families can finish the evening off with the alfresco Cinema Paradiso.

Ziplining into reception at Shinta Mani Wild

Animal spotting from the river at Shinta Mani Wild

TRAVEL STATS Flights from Hong Kong into Sihanoukville International Airport include a transfer in Phnom Penh, Thailand’s Don Mueang International Airport or Ho Chi Minh City. Alternatively, it’s approximately a three-hour

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drive from Phnom Penh to Shinta Mani Wild, or a five-hour drive all the way to the coast. Dry season runs from November to February and wet season - or ‘green season’ - from June to October.

INTO THE WOODS How would you like to zip line to your resort? Well, if you’re a guest of Shinta Mani Wild, at the end of a two-and-a-halfhour drive from Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh, you turn off the main road and bump along village tracks to arrive at the resort’s perimeter. Next, you transfer to an old World War II jeep for a short drive, and finally you climb 30m up a tower in the middle of Cardamom National Park. The next minute you are soaring 350m over the treetops across two zip lines before touching ground again in the resort’s Landing Zone Bar. As dramatic arrivals go, this is up there. This extraordinary tented camp resort is the dream of quirky architect and designer, Bill Bensley. And in 350 hectares of national park, there are just 15 tents. The resort welcomes children from ten years and up and a sense of adventure definitely helps. Everything feels extremely safe and professional, but kids (or adults) who don’t want to jump into thin air can of course opt to arrive at the camp by jeep. The tents, set beside the river, are a hugely spacious 100sqm, with vintage furnishings and elaborate décor. The killer feature is the outdoor living decking, with a colourful animal sofa, dining table and alfresco bath, plus family-sized mini-bar, already stocked with treats before you arrive. Trails lead between the tents and HQ, busy with butterflies, birds and ants going about their business. The butlers here look after guests, not only with admin and accommodation, but they also lead butterfly walks, forest hikes, mountain biking afternoons, sunset riverboat trips and more. Depending on the height of the river nearby, there’s wild swimming in the pools or the river, as well as a more conventional swimming pool. Wild, as Bensley calls it, was created to conserve and, in fact, rescue, this part of the national park from the logging, mining and poaching it had been subjected to for years.

CAM B O DIA

Top wild-water swimming in Cardamom National Park Middle, left-toright views from the tent accommodation; riverside picnics; luxe camping amenities Left - heading into the national park with a ranger

Teaming up with the Wildlife Alliance, guests are invited to accompany rangers out on their hunts for snares and poachers and check cameras for animal-spotting. Some of these trips are on the back of motorbikes with professional military trained rangers with Kalashnikovs (as deterrents â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they have never been fired). An exciting adventure, but parents must obviously decide what they are comfortable with. At the last check, rangers had released seven civet cats, ten turtles as well as Macaque and porcupine back into the forest, removed 556 snares and 85 illegal fences and confiscated guns, chainsaws and bulldozers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The animals seem to sense that our park is a safer refuge now,â&#x20AC;? says Bensley.

It is an incredible way to introduce all ages to conservation in its raw state, while staying in fabulous luxury. HQ, with its fairground horses and Jackie Kennedy-inspired style, is where guests re-group and regale each other with their tales of derringdo. The little blackboard menu (ask the chef for kid-friendly alternatives) changes every day, and the resort makes each evening an adventure, with BBQs, rock cocktails and more. Wild is a place that gets under your skin very quickly. Being involved in the preservation of the area builds a special, emotional link, and leaving to return to everyday life ensures you are determined to look after your own piece of the planet a bit better too. Hong Kong Family Traveller 39

F E AT UR E 40 Hong Kong Family Traveller

There’s plenty to keep you busy in The Maldives, discovers Carolynne Dear. But then again, there’s also a lot to be said for taking it easy in this stunning corner of the world

ace down in the Indian Ocean I float, drifting languidly over swarming rainbows of tropical fish, gently gyrating anemone and a rocky landscape of corals. The ocean bed stretches silently - enormously - before me, shafts of sunlight streaming through the turquoise waters from the clear blue sky above. And suddenly there’s movement - what I thought was a rock abruptly twists, swivels round on itself and gracefully propels itself up towards me. I’ve successfully spotted the first turtle of the dive. As we potter along the surface of the ocean on this sunniest of Sundays, a further 15 turtles are witnessed. “Not bad!” exclaims our dive master as we clamber back onto the dive boat, flushed with success. What a treat. The ocean lays on yet more entertainment with a prancing pod of dolphins that dances alongside our boat as we speed back to our resort. To be honest, I’ve had worse weekends. I’m in The Maldives and staying at Anantara Dhigu resort, part of the South Male atoll. It’s a quick-and-easy 40-minute transfer by speedboat from Male International Airport, perfect if you’ve got kids and don’t want the outlay of a seaplane transfer. I’ve been toying with a trip here for years - but I guess who hasn’t? And quite frankly, it turns out to be the closest I’ve ever come to tropical island, picture postcard perfection. I’m soon questioning why we hadn’t visited sooner. I think it was the vastness of the country that had me stumped - numerous islands, atolls, resorts. Was it worth paying the extra for a seaplane to a more remote area, and what about the kids? Would there be enough to do on, what is essentially, a bunch of sandbanks? Silky white sand and swaying palms don’t always cut it with action-loving tweens and teens. But as it turns out, there is plenty of activity. It also transpires that a near-empty beach, a lounger and a good book slows the pace right down for everyone. Back in Hong Kong I barely stop all day, but by day two at Anantara Dhigu I’m questioning whether I really want to leave the shade of the lovely coconut palm in the garden of my beach bungalow? Maybe I could skip the afternoon’s planned snorkel expedition and just settle down here by the gently lapping waters for another hour…

Opposite page - the airport transfer pulls in at Anantara Dhigu just in time for another day in paradise

This page, from top - Anantara’s private Naladhu Island; taking the plunge in the Indian Ocean

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M AL DIVES

MISSING IN ACTION

F E AT UR E

Map of The Maldives

N W

E S

Ihavandhippolhu Maamakunudhoo

Thiladhunmathee Miladhunmadulu

North Maalhosmadulu south Maalhosmadulu goldhuu

Faadhippolhu North Male South Male

Ari Felidhoo Nilandoo

Mulaku

kolhumadulu hadhdhunmathee

huvadloo

Equator addu 42 Hong Kong Family Traveller

M AL DIVES

We’d flown into Male International Airport for a fourday break. Cathay offers a rather late arrival time of 9pm, but we are warmly greeted on arrival and efficiently escorted to the Anantara airport arrivals office where we are offered a drink and asked to fill in the requisite check-in paperwork. It is then a short walk to the speedboat where our luggage is already being loaded. The Republic of Maldives covers a vast area of the Indian Ocean, its 26 atolls straddling the equator. The atolls, or rings, are home to almost 2,000 coral islands, including about 80 resort islands. After half an hour of bumping along on the ocean in the dark,

we pull into a jetty and are met by a group of beaming staff members. Within minutes we are ushered to a beach buggy and dropped off at the most glorious beach bungalow. Arriving so late at night it is difficult to see what’s what - if only that Cathay flight took off a couple of hours earlier - so it’s straight to bed. Daylight the next morning, however, reveals our beautiful accommodation, fully beachvibed with a turquoise and white colour palette, outdoor shower and bath, and French doors leading onto a patio surrounded by lush foliage. For families, the two-bed pool villas have recently been refurbished and there are interconnecting-villa options for larger groups.

Top overwater villas at Anantara Dhigu Right island-time

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F E AT UR E Following the tiny hermit crabs along the garden path brings me out onto the stunning beach and the shimmering, turquoise waters of the lagoon. I shall never forget sitting on the sand that first morning, soaking up the sheer beauty of the place. After all that dilly-dallying over atolls and resorts and speed-boats and seaplanes, thank goodness I’d finally made it. And then began our busy long weekend. Gosh, if we weren’t lingering at the alfresco beach buffet over plates of fresh coconut and mango, then we were changing for lunch at one of the stunning resort restaurants. And then there was the beautiful resort infinity pool, the snorkelling excursions, the diving, the sunrise yoga, the spa… We were flat-out albeit mostly on a sun lounger. Anantara Dhigu is the childfriendly island of a three-island resort. Opposite is Veli, served by a regular speed-boat puttering between the two, and is adultsonly until 6pm, when families are permitted to use the island’s restaurants. A third island, Naladhu, is private. There is also a snorkelling island, Gulhifushi staff can sort you out with a picnic 44 Hong Kong Family Traveller

and you can while away an entirely pleasant afternoon with the fish. Dhigu boasts an attractive kids club, the Dhoni Club, with plenty of fun wooden play structures, treehouses, pirate ships, swings and an indoor area. It serves children aged from three to 12 years with a full activity programme - think crab hunts, pirate days, chef sessions and local art and craft workshops. Babysitters are available to accompany littlies aged from three months (bookings must be made 24 hours in advance). There’s also The Anantara Surf School by Tropicsurf which accommodates all levels of surfer and was advertising beginner lessons in the calmer lagoon waters during our stay. If you’re looking for waves, the ‘proper’ surf season runs from May to September, which is also wet season. The resort’s dive school is run by Aquafanatics and offers a busy menu of PADI courses, dive adventures, refresher courses, speciality courses and private dives. But if you don’t want to dive, there are also miriad snorkel opportunities. I’ve already mentioned the turtle adventure,

Left lunch at Baan Huraa Right surf school action on Anantara Dhigu

THE RESORT RUNS A CORAL REGROWTH PROGRAMME AND THE NASCENT REEF NURSERIES WERE SWARMING WITH FISH

but also well worth signing up for is the nurse shark snorkelling and manta snorkelling. A longer, eighthour full-day expedition can have you blowing bubbles with whale sharks. There is also a snorkelling trail around the island that passes in front of the resort’s signature restaurant, Sea.Fire. Salt. A chat one evening with the resident dive master, Alex, reveals that the oceans around the resort underwent a ‘bleaching’ a couple of years ago, killing a lot of the coral off. Coral is a sensitive organism, vulnerable to extreme weather and sudden environmental changes. The water temperature and salinity need to be absolutely right for it to flourish. The resort has now undertaken a coral re-growth programme, although it’s a slow process. To grow a reef, coral larvae needs to attach to a hard surface. Crates have been submerged in various parts of the lagoon surrounding Anantara’s resort islands and guests can take part in its ‘Coral Adoption’ programme. They grow at a rate of around eight inches a year but despite the small size of these nascent reef nurseries, they

M AL DIVES

were swarming with fish. If guests choose to plant a coral, the resort will provide follow-up email updates and photos monitoring its progress. In an area of the world constantly under threat from global warming and rising sea levels, it was heartening to see eco-touches, such as reeffriendly sunscreen provided in all accommodation, as well as refillable canisters of shampoo and conditioner and good old fashioned bars of soap in paper packets. The dive school recommended all sunscreen should be applied at least 30 minutes before entering the water, otherwise it slips off and forms an impervious surface on the ocean, preventing life-giving sunlight from penetrating to the corals below. But if you want a break from the ocean, the Dhigu swimming pool is large, family-friendly and

situated right next to the beach by Fushi Cafe. All that water-based activity certainly builds up an appetite and the resort offers plenty of memorable dining opportunities. One evening, dining in Sea.Fire. Salt at an oceanside table, we spot grey nurse sharks swim right up to the edge of the jetty below us as we eat. It’s a beautiful moment, three fish gliding gently through the floodlit waters as we enjoy our meal. Another dining highlight was lunch at the resort’s signature Thai restaurant, Baan Huraa. It is set on a jetty over the lagoon and rather excitingly requires a speedboat to whisk you over. We spend a gorgeous couple of hours completely mesmerised by the rainbow fish flitting in the waters below as we tuck into an indulgent lunch. The spectacular natural aquarium certainly keeps

the young children at an adjacent table engaged. On our last night we chose the resort’s Dining by Design option. The chef and waitstaff duly set-up a naped and draped table on the beach just beyond the garden of our bungalow. Candles are planted in the sand and hung in the branches of overhanging trees and the whole magical scene is polished off with a BBQ and platefuls of grilled seafood, meats and salads as we tuck in under the stars. Love Island eat your heart out. I have to admit I am pretty blown away by The Maldives. So often brochures promise the earth and on arrival it’s all, well, just slightly underwhelming. But this corner of the world is simply spectacular. My fears about not having enough to occupy us are completely unfounded. I land back in Hong Kong with a heap

of dreamy memories and feeling ever so relaxed. Hong Kong Family Traveller was a guest of Anantara Dhigu. For more information about the resort, see anantara.com

TRAVEL STATS Cathay Pacific flies five times a week from Chek Lap Kok to Male. The flight time is just over five-and-ahalf hours. Anantara Dhigu is a forty minute speedboat ride from Male International Airport. The best times to travel are from Christmas through to early June. Rainy season runs from June until autumn, which is also peak surf season.

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ANIMAL MAGIC From dolphins to dugongs, Western Australia is a haven for native wildlife. Carolyn Beasley heads to Shark Bay to say gâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;day

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Main image the dolphins of Monkey Mia Inset - stand-up paddle boarding in Francois Peron National Park (left) and around Dirk Hartog Island

Hong Kong Family Traveller 47

Photos courtesy of Tourism Western Australia

AU ST RAL IA

’m standing in ankle deep water when the creature approaches me. She’s bigger and stronger than me, and some might say more intelligent. Rotating to one side, her large, knowing eye is lifted above the water. She’s observing me, assessing me, and close enough to touch. I’m surprised by the connection I feel, a realisation that this is not just another animal. She is wild, and controlling this interaction. An effortless tail flip sees her glide past, and I feel the water movement on my feet. Beside me, a father holds his toddler daughter, and she senses the connection too, squealing with delight and reaching out with both hands calling: “Dolphie, dolphie!” I’m in Western Australia, at the famous dolphin-watching site of Monkey Mia, 850 kilometres north of Perth. Monkey Mia is a beachfront tourist hub in Shark Bay, an area of rugged beauty and spectacular nature. Shark Bay’s embayments and peninsulas cover some 2.2 million hectares, 70 percent of which is marine waters, and the area was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1991. In listing this first Western Australian site, UNESCO noted the stromatolites – 3.7 billion-year-old colonies of microbes that form hard domes, some of the oldest living life forms on earth. The listing also notes some of the most extensive and diverse seagrass meadows in the world, which contribute to the prolific marine life found in the area. The most famous of Shark Bay’s marine life is Monkey Mia’s Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, whose predecessors have been receiving fish scraps from friendly fishermen and delighting families here since the 1960s. The dolphins have been the subject of scientific study since 1982, and these days, the feeding of wild dolphins is carefully regulated to ensure their protection. Dolphins visit almost every day, and before the interaction, staff from the government’s Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions (DBCA) explain to visitors how the dolphin watching works. At 7.45 am, I join other visitors standing in the shallows as dolphins swim in, inspecting today’s line up of humans.

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Main image four-wheel drive fun along the red-desert roads of Francois Peron National Park Opposite page, clockwise from top - didgeridoos and campfires; interacting with the dolphins of Monkey Mia; snorkelling Dirk Hartog Island

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Only five specific female dolphins are fed and these are readily identified by their distinctive dorsal fin markings. Recently, only two of these dolphins, Piccolo and Kiya, aged 26- and 22-years old have been presenting for feeding. As I watch, up to 15 dolphins join the interaction, but Piccolo and Kiya, both with babies in tow, are circling the rangers like puppy dogs. Several lucky visitors are chosen to offer the dolphins a fish or two as their families excitedly snap photos. Rangers explain the dolphins are never fed more than 10 percent of their daily dietary requirements, to ensure they continue their natural behaviours, and visitors are not permitted to touch the dolphins, for the wellbeing of the animals. After the feeding, the dolphin mothers move to deeper water to allow their babies to drink their milk. Rangers will feed the dolphins up to three times each morning, so after the first feeding, I loiter as most of the crowd disperses. To my delight, the dolphins swim back to the beach for two more interactions, and I am rewarded with an almost personal experience with the dolphin families. Families of all sorts love RAC Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort where I am staying, and after watching dolphins from my breakfast table, I encounter a family of wild emus strolling the pathways, along with sociable pelicans on the beach. For human families, the resort offers a range of accommodation from camping to stylish beachfront villas sleeping up to eight. Casual dining and a kid’s menu is available at the Monkey Bar, and for a treat, I try the Boughshed Restaurant, for fennel crusted tuna tataki and the kangaroo fillet. Although the dolphins are the marine rock stars of Shark Bay, the area also hosts about 10,000 wild dugongs, the most significant population of these vulnerable ‘sea cows’ in the world. Hoping to see the dugongs up close, I step aboard the sailing catamaran Shotover 2 from the Monkey Mia jetty. Sailing into the calm bay, we spot turtles surfacing and seabirds fishing, and finally, the log-like figure of a dugong grabbing a breath of air. We soon realise our shy dugong has a baby and the boat’s skipper, Ms Mel Thomson says watching the newborn calves is her favourite pastime. “They’re really quite unco-ordinated,” she laughs. “The mothers lift them to the surface to breathe and then they just flop to the side.”

AU ST RAL IA

Photos courtesy of Carolyn Beasley and Tourism Western Australia

The saltwater supports people too, and Aboriginal tribes have thrived in this harsh environment for tens of thousands of years. I meet Darren ‘Capes’ Capewell of Wula Gura Nyinda Eco Adventures for the family-favourite night tour called Didgeridoo Dreaming and he leads us on foot behind the beach dunes to where he has prepared a bonfire. Capes belongs to the local Mulgana and Nhanda tribes, and explains the cultural significance of Guthurraguda (Shark Bay). Squatting in the sand, he instructs: “Let the white sand run through your hands, and rub it a bit. It’s important not just to see

Guthurraguda with your eyes, but also to feel it,” he says. With no light pollution, the starry sky is intensely bright as Capes pulls out his didgeridoo collection. It is traditionally a male-only instrument, and the men and boys of our group try the difficult lip-vibrating technique. Amid much laughter and encouragement from Capes, the ladies get a lesson in playing the giant conch shell, which is similarly tricky. Next Capes cooks three whole fish on a bed of campfire coals, removing the charred skin and scales to reveal the succulent fish beneath and we each dig in with our fingers.

Further afield from Monkey Mia, the red-desert landscapes of Shark Bay are best appreciated on a fun, four-wheel drive tour of Francois Peron National Park and I join. Bumping around dirt tracks in Wildsights 4WD Tours’ Landcruiser, we are regaled by Harvey Raven with stories of local history and natural wonders. Rusty outback dunes plunge into turquoise ocean, separated by pristine white sands, providing the most photogenic of colour contrasts. Our lunch picnic is at Cape Peron, and from the safely fenced clifftop we take in an ocean bonanza far below, spying

sharks, turtles, giant shovel-nosed rays, sting rays and huge colonies of seabirds. At Bottle Bay, Harvey drives the car on the shore, and I roll the window down, hair buffeted by sea breezes as the car sways along the beach. Before departing, we follow Harvey along a track beside the ocean and he shows us the tops of Acacia trees that are being swallowed by a mobile sand dune. We feel the gritty wind first hand, and our legs are blasted like an unplanned exfoliation treatment, with the itinerant sand blowing off the edge of a cliff, forming a ‘sand waterfall.’ Approaching dusk on the way home, we delight in watching kangaroos bound through the bush beside us, and a pair of emus that run along the track in front of us, their back feathers flouncing up and down like Victorian-era skirts. Just out of Shark Bay’s main town of Denham, Ocean Park Aquarium provides another opportunity to learn more about Shark Bay’s wild assets. The emphasis is on education and all visitors join a marine biologist-led tour. I’m hurried past large tanks showcasing local moray eels and anemone fish as outside a sharkfeeding session is about to begin. The biologist says the largest shark here is Linda the lemon shark. Hong Kong Family Traveller 49

F E AT UR E She’s not considered a dangerous species to humans but measuring an intimidating three-metres long, she gulps down the fish with alarming efficiency. Linda’s companions include sand bar and leopard sharks and the young tiger shark, Woodsy. In a rehabilitation tank, I fall in love with Donny, a loggerhead turtle. Donny is gregarious, approaching anyone near his enclosure, especially at feeding time. Ocean Park is a great place for families to feed too, with the restaurant almost overhanging the ocean. The menu offers kids meals, burgers and craft beers, and I dive into the local ocean platter. From Denham, I explore the Shark Bay Marine Park with Shark Bay Dive and Marine Safaris. The 50 Hong Kong Family Traveller

co-owners introduce themselves and their various credentials and I learn that Ed Fenny is a boat skipper and marine biologist, while John Craig is a divemaster and theoretical physicist. “This makes us vastly overqualified, but we love it!” Ed laughs, as we depart the harbour. Bouncing across the small wind chop in the bay, Ed imparts some local historical knowledge, unrolling maps on the floor of the boat with tales of early European trading routes and shipwrecks. Rounding the point to the open ocean, we confront rolling ocean swells and the towering cliffs of Steep Point, where game-fishermen use balloons to float their fishing lines offshore to bigger fish. We quickly snap photos in front of the cliff that resembles an agonised face, named the ‘Screaming Dutchman’, after the early Dutch seafarers who perished on this treacherous coastline.

Top - the rusty red landscape meets the turquoise ocean in Shark Bay Inset aerial view of RAC Monkey Mia Resort Opposite page kayaking off Dirk Hartog Island

Retreating back inside Shark Bay, we stop at Shelter Bay for snorkelling. Ed explains, “We’re in the sweet spot here – too far south for box jellyfish and too far north for great white sharks,” he jokes. “And the tiger sharks are very lazy!” In the shallow clear waters, I marvel at pretty corals, moral eels and ‘Nemo’ fish. We picnic in the lee of a limestone island complete with a giant sea eagle nest, and we’re scrutinised by surprised sea turtles. Our tour visits Dirk Hartog Island, Australia’s most westerly point and Western Australia’s

Photos courtesy of Carolyn Beasley and Tourism Western Australia

AU ST RAL IA

largest island. In the year 1616, Dutch Captain and spice trader, Dirk Hartog, landed here and nailed a pewter plate to a post commemorating his visit, becoming the first European to leave evidence of landing in what would one day be called Australia. From the boat we transfer to four-wheel drives, and Ed and John explain the history and nature of this wild island. Formerly a sheep station, the island is now a national park and home to a conservation project called Return to 1616. All introduced sheep, goats and feral cats have been painstakingly eradicated from the island, and 13 species of threatened animals that had disappeared from the degraded habitat are set to be reintroduced. The release of two tiny species of wallaby has already successfully commenced, and the aim is to restore the island’s ecosystem to conditions Dirk Hartog would recognise. Our tour takes in the natural blowholes, where ocean swells

surge up through holes in a rock platform, sending spray high in the air. Next, we careen across sand dunes to Surf Point, and from the clifftops, I count six green and loggerhead sea turtles, bobbing masterfully through the huge waves, and learn that Australia’s largest loggerhead turtle nesting site is on this island. Mighty whale sharks are frequent visitors, and in winter, the ocean here is thick with acrobatic humpback whales. Rounding the other side of Surf Point, I’m astonished to see the shallow, sheltered water teems with baby sharks in their nursery. Our tour concludes at the former pastoral station’s historic shearing quarters dating to 1880, where third generation owner Kieran Wardle and wife Tory now run a stylish and rustic eco-lodge. Around their outdoor communal dining table, Tory treats us to her homemade scones and jam, and we chat with the family including their nine-year-old daughter, about long-distance schooling and

FROM THE CLIFFTOPS, I COUNT SIX GREEN AND LOGGERHEAD SEA TURTLES, BOBBING THROUGH HUGE WAVES

growing up with your own island. Just beyond the Wardles’ grassy lawn is a white sandy beach, and beyond that, Shark Bay glitters in breezy afternoon sunshine. Apart from the people I’m with, there are no other traces of humans. Underlining this point, four dolphins appear, their fins tracing graceful arcs across the ocean surface as they move along the rugged coast. Wading out to board the boat, I’m starting my journey back to city life. But

Shark Bay has provided me a connection to nature and left me feeling refreshed and optimistic; thankful that havens like this still exist - remote, barely touched, and above all, wild.

TRAVEL STATS Qantas and Cathay Pacific fly from Hong Kong direct to Perth in just under eight hours. Passengers can then transfer to a two-hour domestic flight to Monkey Mia with Rex airlines, and the resort arranges pick-up. Alternatively, you could hire a car in Perth. However, family road-trippers may wish to consider a stop-over, as the drive takes around ten or 11 hours. More information on attractions and accommodation can be found at sharkbayvisit.com.au

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F E AT UR E

ME? SKI? Japan’s ski-tastic Hokkaido region is gearing up for this year’s influx of snow bunnies. If you’re looking to hit the slopes with the kids, says Carolynne Dear, here’s what you need to know

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N ISEKO

’m standing on the side of a fairly large mountain, watching multiple, brightly-clad skiers flash before me. My perennially-patient Hungarian ski instructor has planted herself in the snow about ten metres down the slope. So near, yet so far when you’re strapped to a pair of plastic planks on a very slippery surface.

“You can do it!” she implores, as yet more skiers nimbly spring from the chairlift behind us and set off down the slopes. Easy for her to say, she’s apparently been whooshing down mountains since she could toddle and her mother was a world champion slalom skier. This is not Everest, it’s a family run

in Niseko, but having only skied once before (and promised myself never again) I am frozen to the spot - and it’s got nothing to do with the sub-zero temperatures. With a deep breath and a silent prayer to the god of apres-ski, I push off and glide towards my instructor, executing a wobbly turn en route. Hong Kong Family Traveller 53

F E AT UR E

Relax those muscles

“That’s great!” she enthuses. Well, I’m not exactly Mikaela Shiffrin, but it’s a start and as the sun shines down and the snow glistens, I feel myself beginning to loosen up and actually start to enjoy the holiday. Maybe there is something in this ski lark. My last brush with the white stuff had been 20-odd years before as a student in France. These were heady, pre-safety helmet and goggles days, and I vividly remember screaming my way down a green slope in a pair of sunglasses, small children cutting me up left right and centre, as my French boyfriend shouted unintelligible instructions at me. Out of control, out of my comfort zone and all out of enthusiasm, I vowed never to ski again. Until, that is, I won a ski trip to Niseko in a rugby club raffle in Hong Kong. And so here we are, the kids and their friends nicely ensconced in an instructed ski group of five and already leaping moguls and attempting black runs. Nothing makes you feel more middleaged than watching small children learn to ski. Three days in and I am still struggling to 54 Hong Kong Family Traveller

get to grips with the - practically horizontal - Family Slope. But that’s ok, everyone needs to start somewhere and I can feel my confidence rising daily. If you’re a novice, you need to book lessons. The whole ski-thing can be absolutely terrifying if you don’t know what you’re doing. I signed up with

Previous page perfect powder conditions in Hokkaido Top - I did it! Halfway down the family slope, Niseko Above Heading off for night skiing

There’s no better way to soothe ski-weary muscles in Japan than in an onsen. The mountains of Hokkaido are littered with these naturally occurring hot springs. However, there is a strict code of behaviour when using an onsen and you should also prepare to get naked - all clothes, including jewellery, are usually required to be removed in the changing area. Bring a towel with you to cover your modesty when entering the onsen area, or ask to hire one when you checkin. Onsens are not play areas, so there is strictly no splashing or jumping in and the use of mobiles for taking pictures is heavily frowned on. Rinse off in the changing area both before and after using the hot springs. If you’re hoping to make it a family affair, check before you book as to whether the onsen is same-sex or mixed; children under the age of seven are normally able to accompany a parent of either gender. Nappywearing babies and toddlers will not be permitted into an onsen.

ENOUGH FOR ME, BUT THE KIDS WOULD HAVE CARRIED ON INDEFINITELY IF WE’D LET THEM

TRAVEL STATS

What to bring

Japan is properly cold. The snowfall is relentless in high season, with fresh powder literally pouring from the sky. It’s unlikely you’ll see temperatures rise above zero at this time of year and blue sky days are rare. A recommended ‘gear list’ should include a set of thermals (long-sleeved top and long pants), a set of ski gloves or mittens (mittens are warmer as your fingers are bunched together), a snood to keep your neck warm, a warm hat, socks (make sure they are knee-length to provide ‘rub’ protection from the ski boots), a pair of goggles, a pair of soft snow boots, a ski jacket and a pair of ski pants. For good quality, well-priced basics, try Hong Kong’s Decathlon stores in Causeway Bay, Mong Kok and Tseung Kwan O. All other gear can easily be hired at the resorts, including helmet, ski boots, skis and ski poles. Pre-booking is recommended during high season.

It starts snowing in November in Hokkaido; peak season is considered to be midDecember through to early January, and then from late January to early February over the Chinese New Year period. We travelled in mid-January. Cathay Pacific and Hong Kong Airlines both fly direct from Hong Kong into New Chitose Airport. Ski resorts can be a long drive from the airport, make sure you pre-book a driver or ensure your accommodation offers an airport transfer.

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N ISEKO

SIX DAYS WAS

a group on the first couple of days as we navigated the gentle nursery slopes and then moved on to a private instructor as I graduated to the ‘real’ slopes. The rest of the family was also firmly in the beginner basket, having never skied at all before. The kids, aged from nine year to 14, and their two friends, also from Hong Kong, were allocated a friendly young student from Australia who whisked them off in the gondola at 10am each day and returned them, hungry but happy, at 4pm. A GoPro video sent to us at the end of the week was testament to the amazing time that they’d had. The holiday has since been voted the ‘best ever’. Six days of solid skiing was enough for me, but I think the kids would have carried on for the rest of the month if we’d let them. After a week, I was proud to have improved enough to take on a green run or two on my own. Overall, the trip was a resounding success, and we will definitely be back for more snowy fun.

THE WHITE STUFF If you’re introducing the family to the slopes this winter, keep it simple with an all-in-one resort, says Carolynne Dear Sahoro Following a full refurbishment, Club Med Sahoro re-opens this year. It has been touted as one of the best ski destinations in Asia, particularly if you’re new to skiing. Think idyllic views over the snow-capped peaks of the Hidaka Mountains and plenty of Japanese culture. In addition to sprucing up the guest rooms, Club Med has also introduced a heap of new activities to entertain kids away from the slopes, including soba making classes, temari sushi cooking classes and plenty of indoor activities. When the time comes to hit the slopes, the resort’s Skiing School and Snowboarding School will have you swooshing down the mountain in no time. 56 Hong Kong Family Traveller

The resort has been built on a privately-owned mountain, which means it can exercise ultimate crowd control on the piste. And paired, of course, with some of the driest powder in the world. For beginners, or those looking to improve on their technique, there’s a ski simulator with a variety of slopes for a virtual ski experience. The resort also offers a Magic Carpet on the adult beginner training slope. If you’ve got littlies, there’s a Petit Club Med for two-to-three year olds with heaps of fun activities, perfect if you want to head off to enjoy the mountain. Four-to-ten year olds can enjoy the Mini Club Med and

a Junior Club Med caters to teenage guests, aged 11-17 years, where kids can spend time with friends on the slopes.

Top and inset - snowy fun at Club Med Tomamu, Hokkaido Above - pristine views over the snow fields from guest rooms at Tomamu

Relax ski muscles in an onsen, Club Med Sahoro

CLUB MED’S SEBASTIEN PORTES EXPLAINS WHY YOU CAN’T BEAT A HOLIDAY IN THE SNOW What is it that you love about the mountains? Mountains are a true disconnection from my everyday life, they’re about the adrenaline and the excitement of skiing. They’re about fresh, clean air, away from the warmth and pollution of Hong Kong. I feel re-energized after a holiday at altitude.

Picking up some tips in ski school

Tomamu Club Med Tomamu Hokkaido is heading for its third ski season after its grand opening in January 2018. The resort is just one hour from New Chitose International Airport in Sapporo, with Gentil Organisateurs (GOs) on hand on the slopes to help both beginners and more experienced skiiers. After a day of skiing or boarding, guests can unwind in the resort’s open-air onsen, or take advantage of Japan’s largest indoor wave pool, Mina Mina Beach. The Ice Village is a short walk from the resort. This frozen forest is lit-up at night and offers ice slides, ice skating and an ice restaurant serving cocktails in ice glasses - just don’t forget your mittens. And of course kids are well-catered for. The Children’s Club has heaps of activities and equipment for children aged two years-and-up and is managed by the experienced children’s club GOs.

Club Med’s Winter Early Bird Offer includes an up to 40% discount on bookings for both ski resorts in Japan, ski resorts in the Alps and sun resorts in Asia and The Maldives. Available until the end of September.

What are the differences between your two resorts, Sahoro and Tomamu? Sahoro is adapted for more experienced skiers and snowboarders as the snow domain is bigger and the slopes are steeper. The hotel is also smaller, so it’s a slightly quieter and more relaxing atmosphere. Tomamu is our newest resort and is more about living an exciting, holistic snow experience, going beyond skiing and boarding. As part of the all-inclusive package, families can enjoy the Mina Mina pool, ice skating in the ice village or head up the mountain for fabulous views and our Yakiniku speciality restaurant. Tomamu was awarded Best Japan Resort for international travellers by TripAdvisor this year. Why book a Club Med ski resort? Club Med is the only true allinclusive resort in Hokkaido. Family time on the slopes

Everything is taken care of, from the ski pass, to the ski lessons, to the gear rental. There’s day and night entertainment, swimming pools and hot baths, all-day bars and snacking, plus, depending on the resort, additional activities such as rock climbing in Sahoro. Club Med is particularly valuable for families, as we offer kids clubs from two years-and-up, taking care of the little ones while parents enjoy the slopes. And children from four years-and-up can have all-inclusive ski lessons. Do your own children ski? My sons are four and six years old, they started skiing with Club Med and are now completely addicted. My advice to other parents would be to trust the professionals. Learning to ski is more complicated than it might seem; our Club Med ski schools gather ski instructors from around the world, all with international certification and all English speakers. It was astonishing to see my sons go from barely being able to stand up on their skis on day one to tackling red runs five days later. Where did you learn? In Meribel in the French Alps where I had the privilege of having a family chalet which enabled us to go skiing twice a year. My cousins are older and I was forced to learn quickly so I could keep up! Ski holidays are such fantastic family times, snowfall is magical for both adults and kids. Where are you off to this year? I’m travelling early in the season with some Hong Kong media to our latest French ski resorts in Grand Massif Samoens, near Geneva, and the new Alpe d’Huez resort.

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WELLNESS TRAVEL

Gone walkabout Earlier this year, Hong Kong adventurer Annabelle Bond OBE trekked 100km across South Africa for charity. Hong Kong Family Traveller finds out how she went

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nnabelle Bond is no stranger to adventure. In 2004 she became the fourth ever woman to summit Everest and quickly followed up on this success by completing the Seven Peaks Challenge - climbing the seven highest peaks on seven continents - in the then record breaking time of 360 days. Earlier this year, she took part in a 100km trek across the South African plains for local charity Just Challenge. Each year, Just Challenge

plucks 100 successful applicants and takes them on the challenge of a lifetime in one of the more remote corners of the world. Just Challenge is not intended to be a competitive event, but is instead designed to draw people together for an enriching yet physically challenging experience. It also has a powerful philanthropic element - in order to compete, every participant must raise a minimum of US$1,000 which goes towards the Laureus

Main picture - trekking the plains of South Africa Opposite page, clockwise from top left - camping under the stars; Annabelle Bond full of beans; the campsite; Bond completes another day; the group celebrates at the end of the challenge; We did it! 100km for charity; the sun rises over the Drakensberg Mountains

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JUST CHALLENGE

Sport For Good Foundation, of which Bond has been an ambassador since her Seven Peak Challenge days. Following the challenge, she was approached by Guy Sanan, a member of the Laureus board of directors and invited to join the charity as an ambassador. “I was super impressed with the sorts of projects that they were working on and was only too happy to get involved,” she says. Laureus is a global organisation that uses the power of sport to help disadvantaged young people. To quote Nelson Mandela, “sport has the power to change the world” and Laureus harnesses this idea by supporting more than 160 sports-based community programmes in over 40 countries, aiding children to overcome violence, discrimination and disadvantage. Shortly after the inception of Just Challenge, Bond was approached by founder Lucy Bennett-Baggs who suggested merging Just Challenge with Laureus. It has proved to be a successful formula, with Bond acting as an ambassador for both organisations. “This year’s Just Challenge was set in the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa and turned out to be a truly epic experience,” she explains. “I could not give more credit to Lucy, Jennifer Abbey and Kat Forbes who, along with the ground crew, organised the most incredible event. There were tears at the end as people said goodbye and real bonds of friendship were made.” Along for the ride were sporting ambassadors former Irish rugby union player Brian O’Driscoll and former South African rugby union player Bryan Habana. “They were the best,” adds Bond.

WELLNESS TRAVEL

Run for it Fun challenges for the whole family

Run for Children, Luang Prabang Half Marathon, Laos, October 20

Bond and South African rugby union star Bryan Habana psych up for the final day

But for her, the highlights of this year’s challenge were the “incredible scenery, the amazing campsites each night and being able to spot giraffe, zebra and even a rhino as we walked. Of course another high point was enjoying a cold beer as we arrived into camp after a hard day - it was never that luxurious back in my climbing days!” Bond took her fiance along for the trip. “This was the longest distance he had ever walked,” she admits. “It was fantastic to see him finish the 100km distance and still feel strong.” The challenge stretched over four days and each day was a minimum of seven hours of walking, with the longest day an exhausting 12-hour trek. “But please don’t let that put you off!” says Bond. “We took regular breaks and the time flew by as we walked and talked, getting to know the other people in our group. “In terms of training, my advice would be that yes, you do need to train. It’s worth setting up a fitness goal and putting some mileage in place before you go. And 60 Hong Kong Family Traveller

make sure your shoes are properly worn in - the biggest problem we had in Africa was blisters. I would also say pay proper attention to the gear checklist that is issued.” Bond is now looking forward to the 2020 Just Challenge which is being held in Queenstown, New Zealand. Former All Blacks captain Sean Fitzpatrick and running legend and Laureus ambassador Michael Johnson will both be taking part. Bond will be joining again in her capacity as ambassador for both organisations. “So far I’ve managed to sign up lots of my girlfriends - it’s a great way for us all to catch up as we live in different parts of the world,” she says. “Just Challenge 2019 was amazing but the real feather in the cap was raising a huge US$425 for Laureus Sport For Good. I can’t wait for Queenstown.” Just Challenge 2020 takes place on March 1-6 in Queenstown, New Zealand. To sign up or for further information, see just-challenge.com/newzealand2020

With seven kilometre, 14km and 21km distances and a separate seven kilometre race category for under 12s, Luang Prabang Half Marathon is a fun, annual run event for all levels of ability. The route takes you through the stunning UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang to support Lao Friends Hospital for Children. Sign up at luangprabanghalfmarathon.com

Standard Chartered Singapore Marathon, Singapore, November 30 There’s a full-marathon, half-marathon, ten and five kilometre road races (participants for the five kilometre event must be aged ten years and over) as well as a Kids Dash. For children aged under ten years, the 700m dash is a non-competitive fun run with no timing chips issued - kids are simply invited to take part and have fun. Sign up at singaporemarathon.com

Angkor Wat International Half Marathon, Cambodia, December 8 As well as the half marathon, there are also ten and five kilometre road races offered, as well as a child-friendly three kilometre fun run. The event has been taking place since 1996 and brings competitors through the stunning Angkor Archaeological Park. Monies raised support landmine victims, education programmes and prevention of HIV. Sign up at worldsmarathons.com

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WELLNESS TRAVEL

Travel for body & mind Looking for some head-space this autumn? Here’s our regional round-up of the season’s wellness travel escapes

UP AND ACTIVE IN KOH SAMUI

SURF’S UP FOR THE GIRLS (MAIN PICTURE)

Chai Talay Estate has opened bookings for its autumn 5 Star Fitness Retreat in Koh Samui. Look forward to 30 hours of fitness, wellness and relaxation classes and workshops. The retreat also includes generous plates of healthy and organic home-cooked food from breakfast through to the evening meal, as well as smoothies, high-protein snacks and herbal teas throughout the day. Accommodation is provided in three pool villas, with shared or single rooms available. The three-day retreat takes place November 8-11, with extension days available. Optional nutrition and stress management workshops can also be booked.

Two Balinese resorts will be teaming up with pro women’s surfer Sally Fitzgibbons this autumn. Como Uma Canggu and Como Shambhala Estate will be launching an inaugural all-female surf and wellness retreat. Created for beginner through to intermediate surfers, the curated seven-night retreat will make use of some of Bali’s best surf beaches. Fitzgibbons has won 11 World Surfing League World Tour Championships and is a passionate advocate of an active lifestyle. Under her guidance, instructors from Tropicsurf – the team that runs Como’s surf programmes – will provide lessons tailored to the female physique. The retreat runs from November 2-9.

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Koh Samui’s Chai Talay Estate

SOAK IT UP IN JAPAN Put a spring in your step and check out Walk Japan’s new onsenthemed walking tour. The nine-day, eight-night trek, Narrow Road to the North, follows the rugged Sea of Japan coast through Tohoku. Overnight accommodation is provided in Shinto shrines and traditional inns. Expect delicious Japanese cuisine and plenty of onsen hot spring bath action.

TAIWAN’S LATEST HOT SPOT Japanese wellness brand Hoshino Resorts has opened a luxury spa retreat in Taiwan. Hoshinoya Guguan is located on the outskirts of the hot spring valley of Taichung and is fed by the area’s natural waters that flow down Xueshan (Snow Mountain) into the Dajia River. The property is surrounded by forests and mountains and key to the hotel’s philosophy is Omotenashi, or Japanese hospitality, with Japanese-style hot-spring bathing and spa treatments. The launch follows the group’s inaugural Hoshinoya opening outside of Japan in Ubud, Bali, in 2017. The group owns five further properties in Japan.

Five-star hotels Amanpuri and Amantaka in Phuket are hosting Tibetan Keksel Ancient Yoga retreats this autumn. Amanpuri resort, Phuket Tibetan Keksel yoga aims to engage the body, mind and spirit through a series of breath, sound and movement exercises, each one relating to a specific element - fire, wind, space, water and earth. The easy-to-perform exercises can be used in conjunction with other meditation practices or alone, the idea being to clear obstacles caused by illness or negative emotions. The sessions will be led Tibetan Buddhist monk Geshe Chaphur Rinpoche. The retreats include accommodation in Amanpuri or Amantaka hotels, a 90-minute Aman Grounding Massage on the day of arrival; daily hour-long group morning breathing exercises; two daily 90-minute group Keksel training sessions; a daily hour-long group evening chanting and mantra meditation; full-board and round-trip airport transfers. The Amanpuri-based retreat takes place September 22-29 and the Amantaka retreat September 29 to October 7.

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WELLNESS TRAVEL

in brief...

A TASTE OF TIBET IN THAILAND

Giveaway

WIN

family dining vouchers at Ciao Chow!

Family favourite Ciao Chow and Hong Kong Family Traveller have partnered to offer dining vouchers worth $1000 each for three lucky winners! Ciao Chow restaurants offer delicious and authentic Italian cuisine, all prepared in front of your eyes in its open kitchens. A little piece of classic Italian theatre and passion right here in Hong Kong! All dishes are prepared using high quality, seasonal Italian ingredients, including pizza, pasta, antipasti and cured meats. Ciao Chow is also the first and only pizzeria in Hong Kong to secure the prestigious Verace Pizza Napoletana certification, serving authentic Neapolitan pizza!

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*Competition closes on October 11, 2019. **Please read the full Terms & Conditions when you sign up.

To enter, sign up at hongkongfamilytraveller.com

What’s new

BIG BAY CAFE

Happenings on the foodie scene this autumn

SIP SONG Maximal Concepts has opened Thai specialist, Sip Song, on the beachfront at Repulse Bay. This is a sister establishment to the restaurant group’s popular Limewood eatery further along the strip. The space is inspired by Thai beach culture and night markets - expect plenty of charcoal-grilled skewers, fresh fish and creamy curries. G/F, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay.

SINGALING’S Sai Kung’s latest foodie contender has been opened by ex-Jaspas manager and popular local, Sing Lai. In a brave move, he has located the restaurant away from the town’s notorious ‘square’, a decision that appears to have paid off. The space has been buzzing since its soft-opening over the summer, with a crowd-pleasing menu. The plethora of brekkie options covers two sides of the menu card and Lai has also brought his legendary sizzling fajitas with him. By nightfall, expect a naped and draped, candlelit space and an easy-going dinner menu. 60 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung.

The Big Bay Cafe at Hong Kong’s Kerry Hotel has brought together a smorgasbord of dishes from around the region for a special Southeast Asian promotion. Food is prepared at live cooking stations - think laksas, pho, bahn mi, charcoalgrilled meats and spicy dishes. The promotion is available for dinner-only until September 30. Prices start at $648 per adult and $324 per child (five to 11 years). Kerry Hotel Hong Kong, 38 Hung Luen Road, Hung Hom Bay, Kowloon.

GOLD STANDARD CUPPA Is this the world’s most expensive cup of tea? At a cool £500 (approximately HK$4,700) a pot - yes, you read that correctly - it’s certainly not a cheap cup. The Rubens at The Palace Hotel, which overlooks the Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace in London, is brewing up with PMD Tea’s fine Ceylon Golden Tips, a rare tea blend from the

highlands of Sri Lanka. Gold tweezers are used to pick the leaves and weigh them and the tea is infused with mineral water before being served by white-gloved waitstaff. The tea is described as having a ‘smooth, light mellow texture with fruity notes’ and it is advised that guests savour the tea before tucking into the scones, pastries and finger sandwiches. One pot serves three cups.

FAMILY FUN AT ST REGIS MACAO

Enjoy a New York-inspired Sunday brunch at The Manor, St Regis Macao. The Gourmet Tour Sunday Brunch with Jak the St Regis mascot - is available every Sunday from noon to 3.30pm. Pile your plate with jet-fresh seafood, prime meats and French desserts - and there’s also a live teppanyaki station. Kids under 12 years eat for halfprice and will also receive a Jak cookie decorating kit that they can take home or play with during the brunch. MOP528 per adult with unlimited pours of nonalcoholic drinks, including fruit punches, cold-infused teas and non-alcoholic champagne for children. Littlies under three eat free. Hong Kong Family Traveller 65

DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

DINING ADVENTURES

Main picture putting the finishing touches in place at Kinship’s Shelley Street venue

Tried and tested

Inset - chocolate and coconut tart with kaya jam

Carolynne Dear checks out SoHo newcomer, Kinship

fter a fraught week of school runs, homework and other banalities, it was nice to be invited out for dinner with The Bloke and given the opportunity to ‘posh up’ a little and walk away from the kids’ kitchen supper of mac ‘n’ cheese. Internationally-inspired Kinship sounded like a delicious mid-week supper option, boasting a cosy, familyinspired menu. Kinship is located opposite M&S on Shelley Street, three 66 Hong Kong Family Traveller

floors up in the new LL Tower. So new that the lift buttons didn’t work initially, inducing a panicked 30 seconds as I frantically tried to levre the doors back open. Fortunately somebody else stepped in and pointed out that only one of the two button panels was operational. And so I arrived at the sleek, atmospherically-lit restaurant slightly frazzled. Fortunately a well-mixed Chef’s Gin & Tonic at the bar sorted me out while I waited for The Bloke to arrive from his office across town. The restaurant has used a lot of dark wood, pendant

Opposite page sticky barbecued pork belly with dashi

lighting and an open-kitchen to create an attractively laid-back space. I would say, however, that the lighting could have been a little brighter as I did struggle to read the menu. Either that or they could maybe provide those handy little clip-on torches; I don’t like having to keep diving into my handbag for the torch facility on my mobile when I’m out. My only other gripe was that the seating was a little

squashed. When the guests at the table adjacent to ours arrived I did feel slightly hemmed in. However, the staff were great and had lots to tell us about the menus. I was delighted that in an effort to embrace small-name wine producers, the wines are listed by their country of origin and grape only, with a short description of the bouquet. No complicated dates and vineyards to grapple with.

DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

To start, The Bloke had been advised by a friend to try the burnt onion risotto with an egg yolk beignet, which tasted fantastic, but was a little too rich for me. It was also a very large portion that could easily have been presented as a main. I opted for the smoked Faroe Islands salmon which was really good and a light choice for a summer evening. For the main event, I opted for sticky barbecued pork belly with dashi on a bed of shiitake mushrooms and edamame beans. The meat fell-apart beautifully with the mere prod of a fork and the portion size was perfect. The Bloke’s roasted spring chicken with Parisian gnocchi, pancetta-tomato ragu and pesto was also a hit. The conversation was flowing and the restaurant was buzzing, so we were quite happy to sit

back and polish off the rest of the wine, digesting our meal sufficiently before taking on the puddings. My chocolate and coconut tart with kaya jam was a big hit, as was The Bloke’s Mr Whippy soft-serve ice cream with chunks of brownie and salted caramel. Sometimes

it’s the simple things in life that work best. Unfortunately I couldn’t quite finish my tart and I was regretting my enthusiasm for The Bloke’s risotto at the beginning of the evening. Eyes, bigger and stomach are words that come to mind. It had been a thoroughly enjoyable evening, nice and

relaxed but in a lively space. It would be perfect for a fun, group night out, but we were equally happy a deux. We will definitely be back, if only to take on that chocolate tart again. Kinship, 3/F, 2-4 Shelley Street, Central.

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GROWN-UP GETAWAYS 68 Hong Kong Family Traveller

Expat mums Helen Trott and Noni Dale venture north to the ‘little-visited’ province of Guizhou. Photography by Helen Trott

or the past three years, my travel friend Noni Dale and I have escaped Hong Kong for an adventure to a less-visited part of Asia. We don’t have too many pre-reWe don’t have many prerequisites, but each trip must be remote, untouristy, active and involve a border crossing. In other words, a world away from the indulgences of resort-based family holidays. Our shortlist this year included Xinjiang in the Uighur region of north-western China, and Mohe, the most northerly town in China that sits on the border with Russia. However, given our time constraints - not to mention political sensitivities - we decided these destinations were too ambitious for just a few days. So we opted to stick a little closer to home and boarded the fast train to Guizhou province. According to our well-thumbed Lonely Planet China guidebook, Guizhou is a ‘little-visited destination’ that ‘has always been the least fashionable southwest China province.’ It was this description that sealed our decision to visit. With minority tribes, numerous festivals and fabulous landscapes, it ticked all our boxes and it was just a couple of train rides away (three if you count Hong Kong’s MTR). It seemed that it was perfectly possible to see and do lots in just four days

and be back in Hong Kong in time for the weekend. We caught the fast train from Hong Kong West Kowloon to Guangzhou South and then changed trains to Congjiang. I ended up having to reserve each journey separately, so four separate bookings in all, including the return trip. I think next time I would look into using China Travel Service in Hong Kong. If you do book online, I would advise heading over to Kowloon West station in advance to physically collect the tickets. Be aware that the station can be busy and quite confusing, especially at peak times - and make sure you’re standing in the right queue!

Opposite page - Guizhou village views Top - strolling around Zhaoxing Dong village Above - hanging out with the Tang’an village ladies

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GUIZHOU

Far from the madding crowd

GROWN-UP GETAWAYS The train journey itself was fast and efficient and we were allocated a carriage and a seat number on booking. I would recommend allowing at least an hour to change trains in Guangzhou South - you need some wriggle room to allow for language confusion and moving from one section (of what is a very large station) to another. And be aware that there are several train stations in Guangzhou so double-check your trains arrive and depart from the same station. The journey from Kowloon to Guangzhou South took an hour and then it was a further three hours to Guizhou. Some useful research and a dose of good luck delivered us a superb guide who went out of his way to explore the less-visited areas with us. Our driver, behind the wheel of his sturdy old blue car, whisked us over potholes and landslides and around hairpin bends to remote villages and hidden gems that would 70 Hong Kong Family Traveller

This page, left - wash day in Zhaoxing old town; working in the rice paddies Opposite page, inset - cherry blossoms and country walks Above - bartering for homemade embroidery

WITH MINORITY TRIBES, NUMEROUS FESTIVALS AND FABULOUS LANDSCAPES, GUIZHOU TICKED ALL THE BOXES

have taken weeks to access by public transport. The gleaming new Kowloon West station might have been just a few hours away, but in Congjiang we felt a million miles away from the familiar streets of Hong Kong. I won’t pretend the trip was all plain sailing and at times we did have to dig deep to find a sense of humour. After a particularly long day we arrived late in Rongjiang, to find an unappealing hotel and all the restaurants in town closed for the night. Luckily we chanced upon a supermarket in the basement of a shopping mall that was still open. We stocked up on Tsingtao beer, tomatoes, freshly cooked roast duck and pancakes and happily tucked in back in our hotel room. Our accommodation ranged from a charming riverside hotel that set us back just Y200 (about US$30) each per night, to a huge Chinese corporate hotel with white marble entrance and

satin upholstered, ‘diamond’ encrusted thrones. We dined like kings in small restaurants and home kitchens and once persuaded a local restaurant to cook up the organic produce we had bought that morning in the village market. We walked through old, traditional towns with shops selling locally grown tea and rolls of shiny homemade indigo-dyed cloth, and tiny settlements of just a few wooden houses where children played in the street and ladies in traditional dress sat outside their homes spinning thread and embroidering festival costumes. We followed farmers and buffalo along the rice terrace paths and, most memorably, were treated to wide smiles and gentle curiosity at every turn. Beyond Guangzhou train station, we encountered just a handful of other ‘gweilos’, and we were as interesting to our hosts as they were to us. My few

GUIZHOU

words of Mandarin helped to break the ice, but in truth a ready smile opened most doors. Unfortunately we had just missed the major festivals by a few weeks, but the gods were watching favourably over us and our visit to Shiqiao Miao village coincided with a new house build. The community had collectively built the house and the family was hosting a feast to show their gratitude. We lingered in the shadows and enjoyed the spectacle of adults and children alike chasing the lucky cakes that were thrown from the rafters, the fireworks and firecrackers, the shamanic blessings and the sacrificial chicken, before the guests began helping themselves to platefuls of food from the enormous vats of bubbling meat and vegetables. The 49 ethnic minorities living in Guizhou celebrate more than 1,000 festivals each year, the major events being the Sisterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Meal Festival in April, which is a celebration of the Miao people; the Lusheng Festival in February which is the grandest of the Miao ethnicity festivals; the Dragon Canoe Festival in June; and the Miao New Year Festival, which is different from Chinese

TRAVEL STATS Fast trains run from Hong Kong West Kowloon to Guangzhou South, where you can change trains for Congjiang. Bookings can be made online at en_train@trip.com or with China Travel Service in Hong Kong at ctshk.com/english Wendy Wei Tours organised their itinerary, hotels, guide and driver, wendyweitours.com

New Year, lasts anything up to 15 days and is celebrated after the rice harvest in the autumn. However, times are changing through much of China and huge new infrastructure is catapulting remote towns and villages firmly into the twentyfirst century. The provincial capital that we visited now has an impressive technology park and skyscrapers and new roads and dams cut through the pristine hills. If you want to witness sleepy, rural China where life has changed little, I would urge you to visit sooner rather than later. China doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always get a good press from visiting tourists - yes, many of the public loos are tricky and the bureaucracy can be frustrating. But most people are helpful and friendly and away from the tourist traps we found them to be as warm and welcoming as anywhere else in the world. We loved every minute of our adventure and our four-night trip felt like a fortnight. The trick is to do your homework - and choose both your destination and your travel companion with care. Go with an open mind and you will be in for a real treat. Hong Kong Family Traveller 71

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H K T RAVE L L I NG M UM

School daze Back-to-school ain’t what it used to be, discovers our mum

nd so it has come to pass that I am now in possession of four children in three different schools. And I’m not entirely sure how I arrived here. One minute I was happily waving them all off on the same school bus with their little packets of Vegemite sandwiches and four bags of Walkers Ready Salted crisps (never let it be said that I don’t embrace many different global cuisines), the next I’m not actually sure who’s still in bed and who scurried out of the door at 7.10am. The Sporty Child and the Boy Child returned to their school much earlier in the summer as they follow a southern hemisphere timetable, so I was cheered to wake-up the other week and think that at least two of them weren’t lolling around on the couch glued to Tik Tok. I also remembered that the Teen Child had returned home the previous evening with various hangers-on who were no doubt snoring away in her bedroom, and that the Blonde Child was still very much a firm fixture in the house, her school term not commencing for another couple of weeks. And so I wandered into the kitchen to prepare a nice big brekkie for everyone. Well, brunch, as by now it was 11am. As predicted, the sizzle of bacon brings everybody hungrily downstairs and I’m happily doling out plates of toast and eggs when the front door crashes open. It’s the Sporty Child and the Boy Child. They chuck their school bags in the 74 Hong Kong Family Traveller

corner. What on earth? “Typhoon,” announces the Sporty Child cheerfully. “Ooh, is that bacon?” she asks, peering into the frying pan. “Great! Can I have a fried egg with that?” The Boy Child settles himself at the breakfast bar with an empty plate. “Can you do scrambled eggs too?” he asks. “And a sausage?” he adds hopefully.

Anyway, she’s enthusiastic about getting back into a school routine and I duly deposit her at the local MTR station. For one whole day I am home with just the one child. Which is very pleasant as the Blonde Child is keen to watch something other than Grey’s Anatomy and is sparing with her use of the shower water.

HK Travelling Mum lives in Hong Kong with her four travelloving children and a weary husband

I wearily switch the stove back on. Unbelievable. I’ve only been rid of them for four days and they’re already on a day off. But peering out of the kitchen window I realise that yes, maybe it is rather windy. The next week I am hopeful of losing another child from the fold as ESF is due to return to class. The Teen Child is keen to go back to school, having broken up in April for study leave. Yes, that’s correct, 18 weeks of teenagers eating everything in the fridge, cluttering up my lounge room watching Grey’s Anatomy and using up all the hot water in the shower.

And then an email pops into my inbox. ‘Would parents please be reminded that tomorrow is a teacher training day and the school will be closed to students’. Silently, I bang my forehead several times on the dining table. So tomorrow I’ll be back to three at home. And another week draws to a close with a higher percentage children at home than in school. The following week the gods must be smiling on me because by Monday lunchtime and after a thorough search of the house, only the Blonde Child appears

to be home. We drag out her suitcases and start packing what she’ll need for her first term at a British boarding school. The radio is mumbling away in the background with more reports of airline cancellations. And suddenly it hits me, I am due to be inside a plane in just a week’s time to drop the Blonde Child at school. I vaguely recall hearing something at the beginning of the summer about striking ground crew at Heathrow and I quickly offer up a silent prayer to the god of harassed mothers, begging for our plane to take-off on schedule. While nowhere near the Teen Child’s summer holiday record, the Blonde Child has been off school since early June. Or am I to spend my autumn as well as my summer practically living in Fusion? Will I ever be able to catch up on Eastenders? Will any of them ever clock up the requisite number of school days to be able to graduate? Or will I be stuck in this Groundhog Day of a summer holiday FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE?! The light on the horizon? An email from my brother in London inviting me to stay for a few days after I’ve dropped the Blonde Child off. Giddy images of the Kings Road, Peter Jones, High Street Kensington and the V&A dance around my head. I check my diary. But unfortunately it is not to be. Because by the time I arrive back in Hong Kong, having finally got them all back to school after the summer holidays, it’ll be time for the autumn holidays to begin.

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