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Colofon ART DIRECTOR & DESIGN Attilio Brancaccio EDITORS Agnese Roda Anna Kelhu FASHION DIRECTOR & STYLING Marie Claire Liem CONTRIBUTING FEATURES EDITOR Elize Thode Stephan Serra FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHERS Attilio Brancaccio Ilovewhenyousmile Michela Nale Olivier Philippe
Sound made when transitioning from a sitting to a standing position.
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FEATURED MAKE-UP & HAIR STYLIST Trudi Nieuwwerf
Alessandra Farinacci & Alice Frezzotti Wouter van Schaaijk THANKS TO: Blupixel.it ADVERTISING hoopdoop@hoopdoopmagazine.com
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P6 • UZURI COUTURE • Cover Story
P62 • TABOO • fashion editorial
P20 • I love when you smile • interview
P80 • BEAT THE LADY’S TATTOO • photo story
P34 • OLIVIER PHILIPPE • interview
P88 • LISELOTTE WIJMA • fashion illustrations
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P46 • MAD GIRLS • fashion editorial
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cover story Transcending African Culture into the Fashion World.
c o u t u r e Interview by: Elize Thode • Photography: Attilio Brancaccio • Model: Sheila Amujal Eagle • Make-up: Trudi Nieuwwerf From Cameroon to the Netherlands, the designer Audrey Ngo MBOG keeps on proving the world that the African Culture can be translated into the High- End Fashion and worn in any part of the world. This self- taught designer that have managed wining the MAF Fashion Battle and making two amazing collection in less than 1 year; I think will keep on surprising us for years to come. After interviewing her I am more than convinced that: “SHE IS HERE TO STAY!”
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When I start drawing I have a vision in mind. It can be a style, shape or I draw free-spirited. So I let the colors and patterns that are in the materials inspire me. You have a background in International business, how did you end up being a designer? It sounds cliché, but fashion has always been my passion. I started drawing in my teenage years. But no one knew that I was drawing. Then I let go of the drawing for a few years and picked it up again when I was about 18. In 2010 I finally decided that I wanted to do something within the Fashion world and started to seriously work towards that dream. Looking at your work, there are some architectural shapes, color blocking and bold colors. What inspires you? How do you make your ideas happen? When I start drawing I have a vision in mind. It can be a style, shape or I draw free-spirited. So I let the colors and patterns that are in the materials inspire me. This last option can only be done obviously if I bought the materials beforehand. But in most cases I first draw and then go and buy materials that fit within my vision. In every collection I’m inspired by something else. This last collection is inspired by futurism, therefore the architectural shapes in some pieces. What distinct the brand Uzuri Couture from other High- End fashion brands? Uzuri Couture stands out from the rest, it gives you new cuts, shapes, patterns , is unique and is made out of the best (African)fabrics. You will always feel like a million bucks while wearing Uzuri Couture, with no fear of someone wearing
the same piece; because every piece is made once (so far)! Are your collections available in the stores? If yes, which stores? If no, any plans for the future? No, they aren’t available in stores yet. It’s undeniable that I would like to have them in stores, but it demands a lot and by God’s grace that will all fall in place. Any plans in the near future for Menswear? Yes, I have been asked this question by a lot of men and I have seriously considered it. When I started I just wanted to do women’s wear, but along the way I have read, seen and heard that quite some men would like to be rocking Uzuri Couture and quite some women would like to dress their children in it. So , yes I have plans for men! How are you experiencing the Fashion industry as a young upcoming designer and what are your expectations for the future? I’m seeing that a lot of people are really appreciating and liking my work, which is a blessing, because for a designer it is very difficult to know if people are going to like your work and if it will sell eventually. I have noticed that the industry is very open to new, fresh ideas and I can’t wait to show them what I have in store at each time. It will soon be 1 year since I started this journey and of course I haven’t been on my peek yet. Every time I outshine myself and the plan for the future is to
keep on doing so. Wowing people, make them see and wear pieces that they haven’t seen before or ever imagined with African print. What are you working on right now? ( projects) I am now working on upcoming shows that I have these upcoming months. I wanted to expand my horizons, so I’m also wanting to present my brand on a bigger platform abroad. But besides that, like I have said above, I am planning on designing for men and children too. It won’t be as much as for women, because for now that’s my primary target group, but I will come out with some pieces for children and men.
photo: Monyart
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HOOPDOOP meets
i love when you IVANO SALONIA & ANA RITA SOUSA Interview by: Anna Kelhu • Photo: ilovewhenyousmile
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u smile
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In our opinion nudity doesn’t necessarily means intimacy, but in our images it very often does.Gazing inside someone else’s house can be as intimate as looking at them getting undressed in front of you. What is Iloveyouwhenyousmile all about? We’ve been asked frequently what our work is about. Well, it’s not easy to put it into a box or give it a label. It’s not about what we do but why and how we do it. Our approach is very emotive and honest, and we like to keep close contact with our subjects. There’s a kind of intimacy that gives our images an authentic look and a sculptorical idea. Our attention goes very much to people, their bodies, expressions, the stories they have to tell us. It’s all very genuine but nonetheless elegant and refined. As a duo we balance the knowledge and technical aspects of one of us with the romanticism and conceptual visions of the other. We’re convinced that if separated, things wouldn’t work as well. Many of your photos depict the oddities of every day life. There’s also nudity present in many of the portraits. What do you mean to show through your pictures - what do you want people to realise? In our opinion nudity doesn’t necessarily means intimacy, but in our images it very often does. Gazing inside someone else’s house can be as intimate as looking at them getting undressed in front of you. There is an attraction of a kind to people’s everyday life, to the people we observe (most of our models are people we cast in the streets). Of course, that we also orchestrate from our own aesthetic point of view. You took your art to the streets of New York, to make it accessible to everyone. Why New
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York? What kind of feedback did you get from this project? We like to take pictures for ourselves but sharing is indeed a big part of the game. We have good visibility on the Internet, but with printed photos it is so different. So far, we didn’t put much effort into exhibitions or such, but we love the idea that people stop to see our images in the real world. It’s different than being part of this huge flow of information sliding on and off of your screen. An exhibition in New York sounded like a dream for us because most of the nicest things in terms of art, photography and trends come from there. We thought it was impossible to put up an exhibition over there and we didn’t want to deal with galleries and all that. So we thought it’d be much better to skip that part and try to exhibit to as many people as we could. This is what street artists do! You wont sell, or get any money out of it, but you can have much more visibility than any small gallery hidden God knows where. So we printed some of our photos and gave them to a friend who was going there. He did all the work for us. With little effort and a good intuition a street exhibition was made. Pictures had a caption inviting people to bring the photos home with them if they wanted. We are fascinated by the entire process, the fact that you get the picture so randomly and unexpectedly. We got just a few replies, but it felt so nice to read a simple story by the new owners. One of them wrote that she was walking the dog of a friend, something that she never did before. She noticed the image attached to a lamp and
grabbed it. Now she has it on her desk. Where do you look for new inspiration? To be honest, a bit of everywhere. We are both good observers. We look at a lot of photography, go through books, magazines, the web, we look at the past. Light. Movement. We are also strongly influenced by other art forms, such as music, cinema, performance, and also advertising and fashion. And we are good dreamers! You are open about working together whilst also maintaining a love relationship. Do you feel these two aspects of your relationship benefits the work, or do they make it more challenging? That’s a good one! Both, we guess! It definitely benefits it! We know each other very well and most often we don’t even have to talk to know what the other one is thinking of. Things come together in a very natural way. Of course, that is also challenging and not always simple, but that’s always part of any kind of relationship. In our case this has a double effect! www.iloveyouwhenyousmile.com
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HOOPDOOP meets
OLIVIER PHILIPPE Interview by: Stephan Serra
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Hi Olivier, how is life going in this lovely beginning of spring? Well, life is busy! Busy in a good way, there are a lot of things I’m working on and to look forward to. Also, I can finally start to take photographs without losing the feeling in my hands. So, tell us a bit more about yourself. You were born in London from French parents, you studied politics; how did you end up taking photographs of Street art in Amsterdam? That’s an easy way to summarize my roots… To be honest, I just kind of fell into it, I had a moment of inspiration. The theme of Street art in Amsterdam came to me when I cycled to the graffiti free zone under the Flevopark bridge in the east back in November 2010. I was amazed by the designs, the colors, the size… It was only then that I started to notice more street art in town as well, generally nearby construction sites. With the sheer amount of art around, I picked up my camera and started taking photos; I then had a feeling I could do more with this. Where did the idea come from? My passion has always been black and white photography. I find it pure. With graffiti, I could have easily just done the same as I’ve always done. That said, I thought it would be a shame to waste the color used by the artists in their murals. It then just clicked into place. I would combine black and white to what we live and breathe on a daily basis and the color of the art which in the streets is temporary and rare. A deliberate contrast. This is indeed a very original technique; can you tell us a bit more? I try to step out of the ordinary. Firstly, the black & white and color contrast is there to give an extra dimension to try to force your attention on the work. Another important element in my work is to find a perspective to the shot, which would make it unique and give it’s Amsterdam flavor, so you know where you are when you’re looking at the art. Finally, I print my work on aluminum sheets to complete the effect. With the right lighting reflected on it, it almost becomes 3D.
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How do you select the artist? Do they come to you? Do you “hunt” them at night? “Come to me?” Ha! I wish it were that easy. That community is somewhat underground, after all, its not “legal” to paint on someone’s doorstep… The first artist I noticed in the street was IVES.one (thx for signing your pieces!). I sent the guy an email with my interest in finding out more about street art and he kindly invited me to a live paint session. Then it was a domino effect, I met two other artists (Bustart & Zaira) that evening and I worked around those contacts progressively. I’ve been lucky to meet so many artists in a year. So far you‘ve been working in Amsterdam and Paris; Any other cities waiting for your eye? I want to spend some time in Barcelona looking at street art there, on weekends. Otherwise, I’d move to Japan. I was at the opening of your expo in The House of Rising a couple of months ago and it was a big success, any other events plan in the near future? You were there?! It ended up in a bit of a blur and I remember meeting half of the people that turned up that night…What a night!! I quickly want to thank everyone that did come at The House of Rising. There is something happening soon, a collaboration organized by Urban Art EFX with other local photographers about street art in Amsterdam. It’s going to happen at the Canvas club on the wibaustraat, saturday the 23rd of June. It’s going to be a crazy party! Who are your favourite FAMOUS photographer and your favourite FAMOUS Street Artist? Myself? Only joking, I’m not too bothered about the photographer, I care more about the actual photo I’m looking at, it could be from anyone. The most recent work I’ve seen is from Anton Kusters on Tokyo and the Yakuza, very dark. For street artists, GOIN from France. He was in Amsterdam last summer for the Project ASA event. I like the controversy and sense of humor in his art.
Who is your favourite LOCAL Street Artist? Bustart. What is your guilty pleasure? Good food. Here comes the “This or That” part of the interview, are you ready? Surprise me. Red or White? Jack Daniels. Wood or Metal? Wood. Hip Hop or Rock’n’Roll? Both. England or France? No comment. Rugby or Football? Rugby. Brunette or Blondine? It depends on the season of the year. Victor Hugo or Henry James? George Orwell. Hash or Weed? Weed. Sneakers or Designer shoes? Designer sneakers. Well, thank you for your time. Here at Hoop Doop magazine, we will keep an eye on you and your brilliant work. We wish you all the best for you future projects! http://streetart-workinprogress.com/
I would combine black and white to what we live and breathe on a daily basis and the color of the art which in the streets is temporary and rare. 37
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eten met kwaliteit
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nale michela
mad girls Photography: Nale Michela Hair Stylist: Neil Gogoi Stylist: Assel’ Kambalova Make up artists: Alessandra Farinacci & Alice Frezzotti Models: Laura & Caroline (Oxygen models London)
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Scarfs vintage shoreditch brick lane, jumpsuit by: ASOS
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Shirts by: ASOS
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Dress and brick lane by: ASOS Scarf: vintage shore ditch
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Scarf vintage shoreditch brick lane, jumsuit by: ASOS
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Shoes,skirt,shirt by: ASOS
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Dresses and accessories : ASOS
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Skirt, shirt, shoes and bag by: ASOS
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Green ballroom dress vintage: Portobello market Belt by: ASOS Pink long gown by: shore ditch vintage
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LOTTAROX AGENCY is a professional booking, event and promotion company based in London (UK), Florence (Italy) and Stockholm (Sweden) whose first aim is to introduce the best emergent and unsigned UK artists to the Italian Indie Market by booking the best Club Nights, In-Store shows and Exhibitions of the various countries it works in, soon in Amsterdam as well.
check out the roster and the info here :
www.lottarox.com
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BEAT THE LADY’s Tattoo Photography & Styling: Attilio Brancaccio • Model: Ildiko Flipse • Make-up: Wouter van Schaaijk
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LISElotte WIJMA
fashion illustrations 88
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photo: Jasper Abel
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photo: Shamila
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photo: Jasper Abel
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