FOOD

Pumpkin Spice and (literally) Everything Nice

The low-down on fall’s biggest obsession

By Ann Walczak

The days are finally cooler, announcing in their own subtle way that the official arrival of fall won’t be much longer now — which means that whether you’re running errands or scrolling through your Instagram feed, you are bound to run into the signs proclaiming that THE PSL IS BACK!

You’ve probably been seeing pumpkin spice pop up in many more places than a billboard or social media ad for weeks now. Nowadays, pumpkin spice isn’t just reserved for coffee drinks, baked goods or candles. It’s in everything from cereal to hummus and hand soap to dog shampoo. The pumpkin spice trend not only endures year after year but seems to get more and more popular. Are companies shamelessly grasping at anything for a profit? Sure. But perhaps there’s something to be said for its longevity and, quite honestly, mind-boggling versatility. In fact, pumpkin spice might not actually be a trend after all but a staple that is here to stay.

What exactly is pumpkin spice? Although the name suggests the presence of that beloved orange gourd at the center of all fall decorations, pumpkin spice typically just refers to the warm spices used in pumpkin pie: cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves and sometimes allspice. In 1930, Thompson & Taylor Spice Co. first debuted the combination of these spices in one product called “pumpkin pie spice,” which made fall baking a breeze and forever changed the American home spice cabinet. Others, including McCormick, quickly followed suit. Eventually, the “pie” was discarded, leaving “pumpkin spice” as we know it today. Even the beloved PSL (Pumpkin Spice Latte) at Starbucks didn’t have any pumpkin in the recipe until 2015.

The argument can certainly be made that nothing is more synonymous with fall than pumpkin spice. It is the quintessential go-to when your mind drifts to thoughts of autumn — cozy blankets, sweaters and scarves; color-changing leaves; a crisp breeze; and all the familiar, comfortable vibes of the season.

So why the obsession? There has to be a reason why businesses get more zealous with their addition of this flavor to products on the shelves each year and why Starbucks not only sells more PSLs each season — hundreds of millions of units since its debut in 2003 — but releases it earlier and earlier, even commissioning special mugs designed to commemorate the flavor.

On the surface, aromas that we’re exposed to during the holidays improve our mood. The smell of pumpkin is associated with Thanksgiving and harvest time in autumn, which is historically a prosperous time. Cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg are homey and familiar and bring up feelings surrounding moments of “slowing down,” self-care and relaxation, or quality time with family and friends without the stress often associated with the winter holidays.

Companies rely on reactance theory, the belief that knowing that something is only around for a limited time makes it more appealing. Although there’s something to be said for that, our lust for the stuff goes much deeper indeed.

Now, here comes the science. Not only do we choose the food that we eat and the drinks that we imbibe based on our moods (whether consciously or unconsciously); these spices, like most, were once used in a medicinal manner. Cinnamon, for example, was used to improve brain function, nutmeg was believed to be an antidepressant and creativity enhancer, and the health claims for ginger are quite numerous.

In addition, our olfactory system, aka our sense of smell, transmits scent to the amygdala, the part of the brain that controls emotions, and then to the hippocampal formation, giving this particular sense a direct connection to our brain’s memory regions. In short, this combination of mood-enhancing, memory-inducing spices once used for more physical benefits now brings comfort and a type of emotional healing that we yearn for (apparently all year). Pumpkin spice is truly about the experience more than the flavor.

With its ability to evoke such a visceral reaction, pumpkin spice transcends the word or very idea of “trends,” and, as with chocolate, we probably shouldn’t expect to see to go away anytime soon. So, whether you prefer to see the fall staple in as many places as possible or would rather keep it to a smaller, more curated amount, pour yourself a little extra pumpkin spice creamer in your coffee or have another slice of pumpkin bread. You deserve it. Z

Ann Walczak is a food writer, editor, mixologist, and former hospitality manager and consultant from Cleveland, Ohio. She is based in Nashville. Follow Ann and her food adventures on Instagram @annstagram58.