Midwest Horse Digest December 2009

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2 December 2009

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

December 2009

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December 2009 - Have a Blessed Christmas!

midwest

Horse Digest

Contents Train in g wi t h t o d ay’s To p Trainer s 6 No More Worming Worries

by Clinton Anderson

8 Handling your Horse’s Feet

by Ken McNabb

Of Interest HEALTH 13 Winter Feeding 20 How our Riding habits change as we get older HOLIDAY SHOPPING - page 22 & 23

10 It’s all in the Training

by Craig Cameron

12 Winter Riding? Rider Beware

by Dennis Auslam

14 Helping Barn & Buddy Sour Horses

by Bob Jeffreys & Suzanne Sheppard

We s t er n P le a su r e 16 Cues, Pre-Cues & Mis-Cues

by Jennifer Lindgren

17 Snaffle Bits - Choosing the Right Snaffle for You & Your Horse

by Tommy Garland

D r e s sage - E n glis h 18 Ask Mary: How do I learn to post the trot?

by Mary Hamilton

21 Golden Rules of Ground Training

by Lynn Palm

Per f o r m anc e Ho r se 24 Training for the Herd Work - mechanical cow vs. live cows

by Monty Bruce

NEWS 16 Heavenly Gaits Farm acquires Ivanhoe of Friesian Quest

25 Singles Cattle Drive 26 Leading Andulusian Breeder moves to Florida from Wisconsin

29 A Miniature Horse Brings Maximum Happiness 33 Combined Driving Classic

Special Sections 28 35 37 37 34 35

Equine Central Upcoming Events Advertisers Index Traders Corner Photo Classifieds Classifieds

Gareth A. Selwood with Andalusian stallion, Santiago, owned by Rothrock Andalusians of Streator Illinois. Photo by Mart of Wisconsin.

Trai l Ho r se 30 Nervous Horse on the Trail

by Julie Goodnight

Eq uine VIP 32 Magali Delgado and Frederic Pignon talk with Equine VIP

by Susan Ashbrooke

We hope you enjoy this issue of

Midwest Horse Digest!

We are proud to be able to publish it for you, our readers, and ask that you support the advertisers that support this magazine.

Thank you!

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Midwest Horse Rahn Greimann, Publisher, Owner and Editor © 2008 Greimann Industries 35418 90th Street Blue Earth, MN 56013 507-526-5943 Fax 507-526-2629

Advertising Contacts Mark Bahls Peg Bahls 507-943-3355 /Fax 507-943-3352 mark@horsedigests.com peg@horsedigests.com

Julie and Rick Vinsand 877-205-7261 julie@horsedigests.com rick@horsedigests.com Andrea Jo Kroening 952-237-5311 andrea@horsedigests.com Midwest Horse Digest is distributed FREE at equinerelated businesses in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Northern Illinois and North and South Dakota. No material from this publication may be copied or in any way reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Neither the advertisers nor Greimann Industries are responsible for any errors in the editorial copy.. Greimann Industries reserves the right to refuse any advertising which we deem unsuitable for our publication. No liability is assumed for errors in or omissions of advertisers in this publication. Opinions and views expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the publisher, editors or employees, nor does publication of any opinion or statement in Midwest Horse Digest constitute an endorsement of the views, opinions, goods or services mentioned. While every possible effort is made to make our publication accurate and timely, Midwest Horse Digest does not warrant the accuracy of material contained in any article or the quality of goods or services contained in any advertisement.

We’re does the time go?

Here we are at the end of another year and it seems like it was just a short time ago that we were at the Expos. I can only shake my head in amazement, and the older I get the faster time goes by. I can remember being in high school many moons ago and thinking I would never get to the prized goal of being a senior. It took what seemed like forever. Now I wish I had all that time back.

I recently heard someone muse that time goes faster as you get older because you have lived more of your life, it had something to do with life expectancy and fractions. I ‘m not sure I understood the philosophy behind the thought any better than my lack of being able to explain what they said. I only know that I wish the time would not pass so fast these days.

We have some great articles in this issue and are excited to have Clinton Anderson with an informative article on how to train your horse to stand still and except being wormed, you’ll find the article on page 6. We are hoping to be able to bring you more articles by Clinton in the future.

Of course, the December issue is full of all of our regulars, with some timely tips and good information, so read carefully. Oh, and by the way, we love hearing from our readers and would like to encourage you to email us. Dennis Auslam has offered to answer your training questions in print. You can email him at redwoodstables@mvtvwireless.com with your questions. And of course, we love it any time we get an email telling us you love the magazine. It makes us feel good!

We hope everyone made it through the Thanksgiving Holiday without mishap, other than an tummy that was over-filled. We were able to partake of a scrumptious meal, only problem being no leftovers! But with more holiday gatherings coming up, hopefully we will get a second chance at squirreling away some of those leftovers before everyone realizes there are any!

It is our sincere wish that each and everyone of you have a truly blessed Christmas and New Year, that you stay safe and that 2010 is a banner year with good times for all. Be positive, be happy and stay healthy.

TO ALL OF OUR ADVERTISERS, DISTRIBUTORS AND READERS WE THANK YOU! Pick up Midwest Horse Digest every month at over 850 feed stores, tack shops, veterinarians, farriers and equestrian centers across the Upper Midwest. If your location does not get Midwest Horse Digest call us at 507-526-5943 or email rahn@horsedigests.com Please direct all editorial and correspondence, as well as change of address to: rahn@horsedigests.com or call 507-526-5943

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Best Wishes from all of us at Midwest Horse Digest December 2009

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No More Worming Worries

by Clinton Anderson

Clinton Anderson shows you how to retrain the horse that’s hard to worm.

Worming is one of the basic elements of good horse keeping and should be a worry-free, routine practice that takes place several times a year. For many people and their horses, worming time means trouble. The owner becomes frustrated because their horse is difficult to worm and the horse becomes defensive because it’s previously had a bad experience being wormed or doesn’t like the taste of the wormer.

World renowned clinician Clinton Anderson is known as the peoples’ trainer; he trains people to train horses. Anderson explains that most worming issues aren’t the horse’s fault – it’s the owner who causes the problem to begin with. ““Most people have trouble worming their horses because of the way they approach the horse. They either sneak up to the horse and then jam the wormer in his mouth or they walk straight up to the horse and hang on to the halter really tight trying to make the horse stand still and then jam it in there; both of these things will make the horse defensive. ““You have to remember that horses are prey animals. If you approach him and you stick the wormer in his face, like it’s a predator, then he’s going to stick it back in your face and say, ‘Get

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lost!’ If you change your approach and you walk up to the horse and kind of act casual about it, pretty soon, you’ll notice that a lot of his defensiveness will go away and he won’t be worried about getting wormed.””

A horse that is good to worm will stand still with his head down, body relaxed and readily accept a wormer because he realizes that you are not trying to hurt him.

Step 1: Desensitize the airspace around the horse’s head with the wormer.

Use the wormer to desensitize the air space around the horse’s head. If the horse won’t accept the wormer in the airspace around him, then he won’t accept the wormer in his mouth. The desensitizing works because you are doing the opposite of what the horse expects you to do – you are not trying to worm the horse.

Stand to the side of the horse so you are out of the horse’s way if he tosses his head or strikes at you. Wave an empty wormer back and forth around the horse’s entire head and muzzle keeping it 8”” away from his muzzle. When the horse keeps his head still, stop waving the wormer, retreat and rub the horse’s head with your other hand. Repeat this step until the horse keeps his head still for the entire time that you are moving the wormer. ““If he is not relaxed at this point don’t go onto the next step.”” said Anderson. ““The horse must be relaxed for this to work.””

Step 2: Rub the horse with the worming syringe.

Desensitize the horse to the touch of the wormer. You want the horse to understand that he can be touched by the wormer without actually getting wormed.

Starting at the horse’s withers, rub an empty wormer all over the horse’s body making your way down his back.

Work back towards his withers and onto his neck and jaw. If he throws his head in the air or moves away from you, continue rubbing until he stands still and relaxes, then retreat. Rub the worming syringe all over the horse’s face, continuing to use the Approach and Retreat method. As the horse becomes desensitized gradually rub the wormer down and around his muzzle. ““When you rub the wormer around the horse’s nose and face, don’t rub it real slow like you’re sneaking around him hoping that he’ll stand still. Rub the horse vigorously with the empty wormer. The horse will think to himself, ‘Man, you’re an idiot, you don’t even know where my mouth is.’”” advised Anderson.

When the horse relaxes and keeps his head and feet still, retreat the wormer and rub his head with your other hand. ““You are trying to establish a starting point.”” said Anderson. ““You want him to realize that

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the quickest way to get rid of the wormer is to stop moving his feet and to relax his head and neck. You want him to stand still and lower his head, when he does, take the wormer away from him and rub his face with your other hand. Keep doing this until you can rub the wormer all over him and he doesn’t move.””

Step 3: Coat the worming syringe with something sweet.

Repeat Step 2 then coat the empty worming syringe with something sweet such as honey, molasses or sugar to help teach the horse to accept the worming syringe in its mouth. The sweetness will help the horse disassociate the bad taste of wormer with the worming process.

Make sure that the horse already has a taste for the honey by putting a little of it on his feed every night.

Stand to the side of the horse and ease the wormer into the corner of his mouth. Keep the wormer in the horse’s mouth; raise your arms if the horse throws his head up. Move back with him if he steps backwards. As soon as the horse stands still, lowers his head and relaxes, take the wormer out of his mouth and rub his face with your hand. Repeat until the horse stands still.

Step 4: Worm the horse with something sweet.

Worming the horse with honey makes the horse think that whatever is in a worming syringe tastes good. Fill the empty wormer up with honey then wave and rub the syringe around the horse’s nose to ensure that he is desensitized to it. Put the honey wormer in the corner of the horse’s mouth and slowly worm him with honey letting him lick the honey off the syringe. Repeat for several days.

Step 5: Worm the horse with a real wormer.

When the horse accepts that he likes having the worming syringe in his mouth you can worm the horse with a real wormer. Practice Steps 1 – 4 until the horse shows no defensiveness towards the wormer. Get a real wormer and put the honey on the outside of the syringe. Put the wormer in the corner of the horse’s mouth and worm him. Wait for the horse to digest the wormer and immediately follow up with a honey wormer. ““Always leave the horse with a positive taste in his mouth. If you just give the bad tasting wormer and then walk away, the last thing he remembers is a foul taste.”” said Anderson.

Step 6: Follow up with positive reinforcement.

Over the next three to four days remind the horse that worming does not have to be a horrible experience by continuing to worm him with a honey wormer. Remember to always desensitize him to the honey wormer before putting the wormer in his mouth, by waving and rubbing the syringe around his nose.

Step 7: Repeat the process before the next scheduled worming.

Start the process again and worm the horse with honey for, four days before the next scheduled worming. Follow up by worming the horse with honey for, four days after the worming; doing this will always leave your horse with a positive worming experience. In time, you won’t have to do this and you should be able to just walk up, worm the horse, and walk away.

family recognized a natural ability with horses.

They cultivated his interest, buying him his first horse at age 9 and Clinton began attending horsemanship clinics at age 12.

At age 13 he began playing Polo-Cross and was chosen for a national team representing his state. Clinton started his training apprenticeship full time at age 15 with nationally acclaimed clinician and horse trainer, Gordon McKinlay of Rockhampton, Queensland. During the next two years, he started and trained more than 600 horses under Gordon’s expert guidance as he established his own foundation of safety and learning to gain respect and control of the wide variety of horses he worked with.

At age 17, Clinton began working for Australian Reining and Cutting Legend Ian Francis in Gympie, Queensland. Clinton worked steadily with Ian for one year, then used his knowledge and expertise to begin his own training facility.

Clinton continued his own training and clinics until coming to the United States in 1996 for a brief apprenticeship with Al Dunning, winner of multiple AQHA World Championships. Clinton then returned to Australia and his horse training business — and to compete at the highest levels of Australian reining. In October of 1997, Clinton officially made the United States his home where he began training, touring and conducting clinics.

In April 2001, Clinton became the first clinician to launch a “made-for-TV” weekly training program broadcast via satellite to millions of homes across the nation on RFD-TV. The use of untrained horses and a variety of topics covering common problems faced by horse owners quickly made “Downunder Horsemanship” the net-

work’s number one equine program.

In 2003 and again in 2005, Anderson faced the country’s best horse trainers and clinicians in the prestigious Road To The Horse Competition, becoming the first person to win the event twice.

Throughout his busy career as a clinician on the road 35-40 weekends each year, Clinton has continued to train, compete and win at the highest levels of reining competition.

2006 was also a significant year for Clinton personally. Although extremely proud to be a native Australian, Clinton also has a deep love of the United States, and on February 21, 2006, he became a United States citizen.

In August 2008, Clinton moved the Downunder Horsemanship headquarters from Ohio to Stephenville, Texas, the “Cowboy Capital of the World.” This new, 30,000 square foot facility, complete with warehouse, rope factory, business offices and retail store, provides a world of new opportunity for Clinton Anderson and Downunder Horsemanship.

Today, Clinton continues to inspire, instruct, and innovate as he works tirelessly to help horse owners of all levels and disciplines learn to be safe and effective while enjoying their horses and achieving their horsemanship goals. Providing eager audiences with the Method that -is as effective as it is easy to understand, along with products designed to help horse owners achieve real results, Clinton Anderson has made an unforgettable mark on horsemanship, and in just over ten years has established a legacy of making horse owners’ dreams come true.

For more information please visit our website at www.downunderhorsemanship.com

Clinton Anderson was born and raised in Queensland, Australia, where at the age of 6 his

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www.horsedigests.com Next, move your body back towards your horse’s hind end. It is very important that you stand with your toes pointed out away from the horse at a ninety degree angle. That way if he kicks you your knees will just buckle in the direction they bend naturally, rather than blowing out a tendon if he were to kick you in the front or side of your knee.

Stay in this position and run your hand quickly and rhythmically down your horse’s hind leg, starting at the hip. Only go a little ways down the horse’s leg at first, then work from the top of the hip again, going a little further each time until you can run your hand all the way down to the hoof.

Once he is comfortable with this, pick up the leg and hold it for a split second, then drop it immediately. This lets your horse know that you want his foot, but you are not going to keep it. Now, hold it for a little longer, and let it drop. At this point you should be lifting the leg in and up towards the horse’s belly, not yet trying to bring it out in back of him. The whole time, your knees should still be pointed away from the horse as we mentioned earlier. It feels a little awkward, but is very important for your safety. Take you time with this lesson, breaking it down in to small pieces over multiple days if you want to.

Once your horse is comfortable with all the previous exercises, you are ready to move on.

Pick his hind foot up, stretch it out behind him a little, and rest it on your knee like the farrier would. Ask him to let you do this for a very short time at first, and ask for longer amounts of time as he gets more comfortable. Take the end of your lead rope, and tap it on the bottom of his hoof like a hammer. Rub the rope around the hoof like a farrier’s rasp. When he is comfortable with that, take your hammer and start tapping the hoof, just like your farrier does when he is putting on shoes.

If at any point during this process your horse tries to pull away from you, hold and wait until you feel him relax, then release the foot you were holding. If he gets his foot away from you, that’s okay. Just immediately ask him to pick it up again. If he is really trying hard to take his foot away, you can longe him for a few minutes, then let him stand and rest and return to handling his feet.

Repeat all the exercises you used on the hind feet on both front feet. To ask your horse to pick up his front foot, run your hand down his leg, and push on the back of his knee with your elbow.

Remember to be sure you can put the front feet between your knees and tap on them with the hammer just like your farrier.

When your farrier is working with your horse, keep these tips in mind: Always stand on the same side of the horse that the farrier is working on. If you are on the opposite side from the farrier and your horse blows up, he will have no where to go except over the top of you. Also, if your horse does act up while having his feet worked on, stay calm and quiet. Your horse will reflect your emotions, and will stand much better if you are dealing with him in a calm manner.

Always remember to enjoy your horses, and may God bless the trails you ride.

For more information on Ken McNabb’s programs call us at 307-645-3149 or go to www.kenmcnabb.com

Handling Your Horse’s Feet

By Ken

McNabb

with Katherine Lindsey Meehan

Does your horse refuse to stand for the farrier? Do you struggle to pick up and clean his feet? This month, we will cover some exercises to teach your horse to pick up his feet and stand politely and quietly while you or you farrier works with him.

For these exercises, you will need a halter with a 12’ lead rope and a hammer. I prefer a rope halter and lead rope with no hardware, but whatever halter you have can work. It is important

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that the lead rope be 12’ in length. You don’t need a special farrier’s hammer for these exercises. Any carpenter’s hammer will work.

There are two reasons your horse will fight you when you try to handle his feet: One, he is afraid of you or nervous about you handling him. Two, he thinks that you are going to take his foot away and he is not going to be able to get it back. Horses need their feet to survive. In the wild, a horse who can’t run is quickly eaten by a predator. It takes trust for your horse to allow you to pick up his foot and take away his ability to run. It is important to keep these things in mind as you work with your horse’s feet.

Begin this month’s exercise in a pen or enclosed area. I like to start by working with the hind feet, since they are the ones we tend to be most nervous about. Stand by your horse’s shoulder, facing the back towards the hind end as you would when you are getting ready to pick up his feet.

Hold the lead rope in the hand closer to your horse, and place your hand with the lead rope on his withers. There should not be much slack in the rope leading from his halter to your hand, but you don’t want to hold so tight that you pull his head around towards you. Hold the tail of the rope in your other hand. Start swinging the rope, letting it bump around your horse’s hind legs.

Make sure the rope just bumps him and is gone quickly. This allows your horse to feel the pressure there and then gone, and builds your confidence. Once your horse stands quietly for you to swing the rope around his near hind leg, start swinging the rope around so it bumps the far hind leg as well. Use a nice, even swinging motion, and keep your hand on the withers the entire time so you stay out of kicking range. When your horse is doing well on one side, switch sides and repeat these exercises.

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It's All in the Training!

by Craig Cameron How do I get more and better control of my horse? The answer to that question will come back to you as different as the Rocky Mountains are vast and as varied as the temperature across Texas on a February day. In other words, the subject is unending and the answers are many.

As always, it depends on the horse, the situation and the circumstances. Success will also depend on the experience and training of the horse and who is at the helm.

Adequately warming up one's horse, however, would always be a primary step in obtaining control in a training or trail riding session. Working from the ground, in the round pen or on a lunge line first is always recommended. This work should be done smoothly and methodically until your horse has the fresh off, his head down, and putting effort into slowing down. At this time, a great method for developing control from the horse's back is through a methodical routine of transition work.

What are transitions? Transitions are the changes from one gait to another. An example would be to go from a stop to a walk, a walk to a trot, a trot to a canter and so forth. It is amazing how few people use this effective method of developing control. Think about it…most riders saddle up, and then immediately ride-out on the trail or straight into the arena. At this point almost all riders immediately push their fresh mounts right into a canter to warm-up. Inappropriately warming up or lack of it, is often-times a recipe for disaster.

This is the point where problems may originate. Almost all riders agree that horses learn from and by repetition. If riders continually and repeatedly canter their horses the first thing each session, what do you think your horse is learning from you? He anticipates that canter, and if he is fresh, many times that canter is going to be fast. When he canters fast, then we pull on our horse. It is quite true, when we press on the accelerator and then immediately put on the brakes the result is contradiction, question, and confusion for the horse. The problem compounds over time. The quick fix much of the time is using a bigger bit which just makes a bigger problem.

Remedy…Transitions Here is a suggestion of how to use transitions. At the Double Horn Ranch, we always use the round pen to warm up any horse that is green, or has excessive energy. We work from the ground until the horse is relaxed, then we transition to the saddle. It is a standing rule that

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we always start and end all training sessions with a walk. If you always walk first, that horse expects, and in my opinion, looks forward to and enjoys that beginning walk. The walk may only last a couple of minutes, but what I am looking for is that horse to relax and walk out on a loose rein.

The walk is where I flex my horse's head to the right and left as well as vertically. Remember, although we start at a standstill, a lateral and vertical flexion are not much good if you cannot do them while the horse's feet are moving. This walk and flex exercise is a super warm up routine that will give you both, position and control with all your horses down the trail.

Remember, flexibility gives you position, and position gives you control. When horse and rider are walking nicely, that is when I recommend transition to a controlled trot.

I believe the trot is the true training gait of the horse—not too slow, not too fast. At the trot, I also practice my flexion exercises; right, left, and in the vertical position. While trotting, do not forget to use your legs. Gentle hugs or squeezes for speed control and the position that you want. You must have your horses broke in the belly. This means, accepting your leg queues, without speeding up, or being scared. If done softly and slowly each day, almost all horses will get used to and understand leg pressure. I work at the trot until my horse trots soft and on a loose rein.

At this point, you might think we are ready to move into the canter. There is no exact procedure, but you might try this first. Transition your horse to a fast trot before cantering. Posting the trot will help to achieve the transition from a moderate trot to a fast trot. Do not be in a hurry.

Allow your horse to trot for a while. I like to fast trot until I feel I have to push my horse to maintain a fast controlled trot. Listen to your horse, and adjust to the situation from session to session. Be patient and your horse will get better and begin to listen to your queues.

Notice when your horse is trying to put effort into slowing down; reward him with softness and a pat on the neck. Ask any experienced rider; it is a heck of a lot easier to speed up a horse than it is to slow one down. Now gently transition to a slow trot, stop posting and sit down. Slow your body and sit back. You will be amazed how well your horse will respond. He will want to slow down. This is a good time to collect your horse and really slow his feet to find that Hollywood trot.

Give your horse time to find that feel and when he does carry it for a while then transition.

It is best to move or transition to a slow canter, but never canter without asking for a particular lead. Ideally, if you are traveling left, ask for a left lead. Sit deep, sit back, sit slow, and do not lean. You can work on circles, big and small, or straight lines; it is all about control.

If your horse rushes, check him up and immediately release. Remember, queues should only last one second. Keep that lope soft and when he is loping slow on a loose rein, then transition.

Lean forward, move your hands toward his ears and ask for a fast lope. You can ride circles or just ride the rails in straight lines. Do not be any more aggressive than required. Let the horse tell you how much or how little it takes to achieve this fast lope. Do not ride too fast or too long and now transition. Remember, there is not a set pattern.

If your horse was very aggressive, maybe transition from the lope to a walk. Perhaps you have enough control to move from a fast lope to a slow canter, it is your choice. Maybe you decided to switch gears from the fast lope to a slow trot again it is your choice.

That is what is so great about transition work.

You dictate the pace. You determine the speed.

Transitions, when done correctly, over a period of time, give you control. The horse accepts the queues, accepts the pace and believes in you as the leader.

It is really quite simple, and very natural. For instance, walk, slow walk, trot, fast trot, slow trot, slow canter, slow walk, real slow walk, canter, fast canter, slow canter, walk, stop, back, and stop.

When we practice transitions, this natural sequence of events will give us incredible control and unity with our equine partners. They accept us as the herd leader and over time and repetition, learn what we want, when and where to go, and do it at the speed we request.

As usual, be patient with your horse, and be patient with yourself. Great horsemanship takes time and remember going from beginning to winning, is a transition all its own.

Ride Smart —Craig Cameron Excerpt with permission out of Craig’s book, Ride Smart, by Craig Cameron with Kathy Swan. Photos by John Brasseaux.

You can order Craig’s book and DVD’s at www..CraigCameron.com

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Winter Riding?

Rider Beware

by Dennis Auslam

Riding in the winter can be a lot of fun but….

Rider beware is the motto. There are things you can do and should do that will make riding safer in winter weather and I have made some suggestions in this article.

• Always check the weather report before you go riding. In the Midwest weather changes happen quickly and can become dangerous, putting you and your horse in a precarious position that could be life threatening.

•If you are going on an extended ride, go with another rider. Again, winter weather can change and terrain that was fine in the warmer months can be dangerous for riding in the winter months.

Accidents can happen in any type of weather, but extra care is the name of the game when riding in the winter.

•Pack the right gear - when you are going on any type of ride there are items you need to put in your saddlebags. A cell phone is one of these items and you want to make sure you have good coverage and a charged battery. You can buy survival kits that are fairly compact and this would be a good addition to pack in your bag. A first aid kit is another item to make sure you pack. Make sure you have enough liquid, as well as some sort of protein, in case you do end up getting stranded for any length of time. Also, make sure you are dressed in layers and dressed appropriately for the temperature. Which goes back to watching the weather and remembering that it can change in a very short period of time. Beware - pack boots may keep your feet warm, but are extremely dangerous and will definitely get stuck in a stirrup, which is a really bad situation if you come off your horse or the horse goes down.

Use common sense and do not go on an extended ride that is so long that you would need to wear clothing that would end up endangering your life. Common sense is the issue here.

•Let someone know where you are going, how long you plan on being gone and what your travel route will be. Be aware also, that our horses spend more time standing around in the winter and their bodies are not as forgiving in the winter, so don’t bite off more than you or your horse can chew. Time in the saddle in the summer is much different then time in the saddle in the winter. The cold will set in much quicker than you may expect. Again, use common sense!

Around this area of the country a lot of riding

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is done on the road or having to cross roads.

Reflectors are really essential and you also want to be aware of the footing on the road. Riding in the winter- watch for ice, you can be really deceived by a snow covering and can think areas are fine when there is glare ice under the snow causing the horse to slip and go down. Injury to you and your horse is a much higher risk in the winter.

•Footing for the horse is a big issue, in my opinion, for the health of the horse in the winter, it is best to keep the shoes off of the horse, but in doing that you cannot put any kind of corrective items on for riding. If you are planning on doing winter riding you may decide to keep shoes on so that you can put a pad under the shoe to keep snow from balling up and ice from building up.

There are shoes that allow you to add a traction device on the shoe, ice cogs or borium.

Remember; don’t trust your terrain just because you ride there in the summer. Ice is a huge factor in the winter and I can assure you that there will be ice under snow-covered areas. So in essence, it is still rider beware when it comes to winter riding.

•Think about the comfort of your horse. If your bridle has been hanging out in the barn or a cold tack shed it is very harsh to stick that cold bit into the horses mouth. Also, an ill fitting saddle will fit even worse in the winter because the horse’s muscles are more tense and that aggravates anything that does not fit properly.

•Loading and unloading your horse in the winter can be tricky. Always check the ground behind and underneath the trailer before you load or unload a horse. It may look like packed snow but 2 inches under it could be ice. Many times, horses coming out of the trailer can slip, so your footing, even a foot underneath the trailer, needs to be appropriate before you unload. I have made this mistake and speak from experience. It is very dangerous and the horse can end up with its back legs under the trailer. The same thing applies to loading, make sure the mats or floors are not slick. You should have a bag of kitty litter or a bucket of gravel with you to use in case you need it.

•Mounting your horse. You may find limitations as to which side you can get on and off of while out riding, and horses will tend to be a little fresher in the winter, so make sure that you are capable, with the extra bulk of clothing, to mount and dismount from either side. Your horse also needs to be disciplined enough to stand still when mounting and stand for at least 30 seconds after you are mounted. Standing still is a lesson that can be taught easily in the barn and reinforced every time you ride, but teaching it now, when you are ready to go out and ride, is not the time.

This is all about safety and is something that should be taught and reinforced every time you ride, winter spring, summer or fall. Your horse should also be taught how to mount both on the

off side and the left side. This goes back to everything I teach in desensitizing. Whatever we teach them on the on side should also be taught on the off side. It is also a good idea to teach your horse how to stand next to a log or a stump, while you mount. This comes in handy in the winter when you have all the bulk of winter clothing to deal with. When you are riding, even if it is not at night, wear reflective clothing.

•Blanketing the horse for winter. If you insist on blanketing the horse for winter it is best to let them grow a little hair before you start blanketing them. Horses are a hearty breed as long as they have a windbreak and a shelter. You can do more harm than good by blanketi-ng them to early.

Make sure all the blanket buckles and ties are in good condition and that the blanket is the appropriate size for the horse.

•If you are road riding, think about plows and other road equipment you might meet up with.

You cannot always count on a snowplow driver, or any other vehicle, to slow down. Just like mounting this is not the best time to train your horse to get used to traffic.If your horse is not used to traffic and trained appropriately, quite frankly, you don’t belong on the horse on the road trying to deal with things like plows and tractors. Stay away from lakes and ponds also.

Don’t go into unfamiliar terrain unless you go with someone who does know the terrain. It does not take long to get hypothermia should an accident happen.

•What to do if your horse is sweaty after a ride - the best thing to do is cool the horse out by walking them. Don’t throw a winter blanket on them and kick them out in the pasture. There are wicking blankets that you can cover the horse with and then walk with them out. The wicking blanket will help remove the moisture and facilitate drying. You don’t want to stick a sweaty horse in a trailer either, open or enclosed. So make sure your horse is properly cooled out. If you are hauling them when they are not completely dry make sure that there is sufficient ventilation, not open drafts but there should be air circulating.

•The barn – if your horse is kept in the barn make sure all there vaccinations are up to date because the air in the barn, when it is closed up, is ripe to pass viruses and flu bugs around.

•Trailer brakes and hauling in the winter.

Make sure your trailer brakes are properly adjusted for the road conditions; they will lock up much quicker on a slick surface, causing the trailer to start sliding.

Words of caution ~ think of the worst thing that could happen on a winter ride and then prepare for it. Take care and stay safe!

Dennis Auslam

Dennis Auslam of Redwood Stables in Morton, MN, trains both the horse and the rider through lessons and clinics. He runs a regular schedule of clinics for Confidence Building, Horsemanship and Cattle Work, including Roping Clinics and has recently added a Challenge Trail Course to his facility.

Call 507-430-0342 or email him at redwoodstables@mvtvwireless.com You can visit his website at www.redwoodstables.com for more information.

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

Winter Feeding

by Roy A.. Johnson tional good quality hay helps provide additional calories. Digesting the fiber produces extra heat to maintain body temperature. * Remember that pasture loses nutrient value after freezing and is less reliable. * Adjust feeding rate so to maintain desired body condition.

* If supplemental feed is needed to maintain body condition, the following higher fat products may be considered: XTN, Legacy, Life Design Senior, Life Design Compete, Safe Choice, or Vitality Ultra. The other method would be to add small amounts of a high fat, balanced supplement like Empower. * Physically check body condition regularly by checking the amount of fat cover over the rib cage, on the neck and around the tail. Horses can lose weight rapidly in the winter!

Roy A. Johnson Technology Deployment Manager - Equine Nutrena速 Visit our website at www.nutrenaworld.com

Winter is frequently a period when owners have less direct contact with their animals. Cold weather and limited hours of daylight, not to mention snow and ice in northern climates, limit the amount of time owners spend in the barn. This is a very important time period for managing horses for several reasons. It is very easy for animals to lose weight during cold weather due to increased energy requirements to maintain body temperature. Drinking cold water also requires additional energy to warm the water to body temperature.

Feeding the same amount of hay and feed to animals dealing with temperatures far below may result in weight loss and loss of body condition.

Long winter hair coats can disguise weight loss, particularly in older horses and pregnant mares.

This weight loss will become visible when the horses shed out in the spring. Mares that are due to foal in the spring and are to be bred back again are of particular concern. If they are due to foal in say April, they need to be on an appropriate diet in December to provide adequate nutrients for the proper growth of the foal in utero. The new Nutrient Requirements of Horses, Sixth Revised Edition, recognized that the nutrient requirements of pregnant mares increase after the 5th month of pregnancy, earlier than previously thought. Also, if they are underweight, below Body Condition Score 6, when they foal, they may be more difficult to rebreed successfully after they foal. Maintaining the desired body condition thru the winter is safer and less expensive than trying to achieve weight gain after foaling when the mare is producing milk for the foal.

Young horses also need to be monitored closely during cold weather in order to maintain the desired rate of growth and body condition. * Provide clean fresh water that is not ice cold. Do NOT assume snow will provide adequate water! * Provide access to loose salt free choice (ice cold salt blocks are not very inviting!). * Feed good quality forage at 1-1.75% of body weight. If temperatures drop, adding addi-

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

December 2009 13

www.horsedigests.com

From Agony to Ecstasy:

Helping Barn & Buddy Sour Horses

By Bob Jeffreys & Suzanne Sheppard ground. You’ll need a lead rope, a halter, and a dressage whip.

Photo 1: Stand on the left side of your horse’s neck, hold lead rope up by the snap with your left Multiple choice: circle the correct answer.

Pacing about anxiously, he calls over and over in vain. The panic in his eyes heightens as she doesn’t answer. He breaks out in a sweat, gets more agitated and tries to break through the barrier that separates them. Where is she? Will she ever come back? Why did she go away?

Quiet, soothing words from people nearby fall on deaf ears. Then suddenly, he sees her. As she approaches his relief is tangible… they reunite happily, and all is right with the world again.

Who does this remind you of?

Your toddler son the first time you left him with the babysitter.

The teenager next door with his first girlfriend You gelding when his paddock mate is taken out for a trail ride.

If you’ve never encountered a barn or buddy sour horse, consider yourself truly lucky. These horses simply refuse to leave the vicinity of the barn, or their favorite companion. Their refusals run the gamut from just standing with their hooves “nailed to the ground”, to jigging, bucking, backing up violently, rearing, or even throwing themselves on the ground.

The good news that, with some simple training exercises, you can teach this type of horse to willingly go forward wherever and whenever you ask. Once you’ve taught this, the training strategies become specific to either the barn sour or the buddy sour horse. Read on to find out how to get past these issues and bring out the best in either type of horse!

The cause of the barn/buddy sourness in a horse could be laziness, fear of the unknown, or a lack of faith in the rider. When you teach the following lesson you will teach a higher level of obedience, move up in the pecking order, prove your leadership abilities, and thereby give your horse the confidence to carry out your requests.

The first step is to recognize that this problem is primarily a lack of a “go forward” cue, and can be cured by teaching a horse to move forward on command. This can be accomplished most easily and safely by beginning on the

14 December 2009

hand. Push lead rope forward use whip in right hand to lightly tap the point of his left hip bone until he moves forward.

Photo 2: When he does walk forward, stop tapping and pushing, turn in the direction he is going and walk

with him for 5-6 strides.

Stop him and reward with a good rub and a kind word.

Repeat this procedure over and over again.

Photo 3: As he starts to understand what you’re asking, begin to move your left hand further down the rope, while still pointing in the direction of travel.

When he’s really good with this lesson, teach it all over again on the right side (right hand holds lead rope, left hand holds dressage whip and

taps the right hip point).

While horses that simply have never before been taught this lesson will learn quickly to be obedient, the confirmed barn sour, “I refuse to go forward!” horse may initially react by backing up rather than going forward. Just remain calm and focused, and stay with him while continuing to “push” forward and tap with the whip until the backing stops. Then release and try again.

It’s important that you have your wits about you because this type of horse may even rear up. If you can safely do so, keep your emotions in check, step to the side and let your hand slide down the lead rope (to stay out of striking range of those front hooves without letting him away) all while acting completely unimpressed. “Yeah, yeah, that’s nice; you can rear. But I’m going to keep on tapping lightly until you go forward.” Be sure to continue tapping with the whip until he stops rearing and moves forward: otherwise he’ll learn that by rearing he can cause you to change your focus and back off. If rearing (as an evasion) works once, just like the child who gets what he wants at the store by having a tantrum, he will most certainly do it again. As always, if that little voice inside tells you that this is just too dangerous for you to handle, remember that safety is always first! Live to train another day and get a pro to help you.

Eventually, every time you point with the whip your horse will move forward. Now you’re ready to transfer the cue to your saddle.

1. Mount up, look forward, engage your seat and squeeze with your legs while simultaneously pushing slightly forward with your reins.

2. If he moves forward, release all cues and praise your horse.

3. Most horses will not go on this alone; if this the case, start bumping lightly with both legs for at least ten times, or until he moves forward. If he moves forward, release all cues and praise your horse.

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

Photo 4: He probably still won’t go if he doesn’t know what the bumping means (hasn’t yet been taught). In this case continue bumping with your legs as you start tapping on his hip with your dressage whip. Be sure to stay focused, looking forward as you tap.

Photo 5: If you’ve done your groundwork properly, he should move forward as soon as he recognizes the cue (tapping the hip).

In time he will realizes that the engagement of the seat with a light squeeze of the legs and the slight push forward of the reins always precedes the bumping of legs, which always precedes the tapping with the whip. The tapping is more annoying than the bumping, so he’ll begin to go forward on the bumping to avoid the tapping. The bumping is more annoying than the squeeze of the legs, so he’ll go on the squeeze to avoid the bumping, therefore becoming lighter and more responsive. Eventually you can “think” go forward, and your mount will comply willingly.

Begin by riding just a short distance from the barn, and then return and praise, showing him that he won’t be gone forever. Leave the barn again and again, going farther each time, reinforcing the right behavior, building a whole new level of mutual trust, and putting an end to his days as a barn sour horse.

The buddy sour horse has an overwhelming desire to be with his equine buddy whether at the barn, in the arena, or on the trail. Like the barn sour horse, this horse has leadership issues with his rider, and feels safer in the company of his equine friends: the reason why becomes obvious when we consider that, even if you ride your horse everyday, you’d be around him for two or three hours out of each twenty four. His barn or pasture mate is with him the rest of that time, i.e. between seven to ten times longer. If you show up only on weekends, then that differential goes up to more than thirty times longer. Because horses find security in the herd, it is only natural for him to seek out the company that he spends the most time with. Furthermore, although we intend to separate them for only an hour or two, these two horses can get very stressed because they don’t’ know if they’ll ever see each other again. So we need to teach our horses to deal with the separation from their buddy calmly and confidently; the following exercises do just that.

The “go cue” lesson is an absolute prerequisite to these exercises, so be sure that you’ve got that under your belt. Then choose the exercise that addresses your specific situation best, and make this the day that you end the buddy sour behavior!

Two Rider Exercise to Cure Buddy Sourness Get a friend to help with this arena exercise!

Each person grooms, tacks and mounts up the

pair of buddy sour horses, and then: Walk the horses side by side, right down the middle of the arena.

On signal, the rider on the right makes a small ten foot circle to the right at the same moment that the rider on the left makes a small left circle.

Both riders return to the straight line, walking side by side.

Congratulations!

Your horses have just experienced a low stress separation, and been reunited before they had the chance to get upset. One small baby step, (10 foot circle), one giant step in developing your horse’s confidence!

Going through many repetitions of separating and then immediately coming back together again relieves the anxiety or fear of losing each other forever. As soon as the horses remain calm performing this exercise, increase the size of your circles to 15, 20, 25 feet, etc. until they are no longer bothered by the brief separation. Once your horse is relaxed at he walk, bring up to the trot, and repeat the same process of going from small circles (brief separations) to very large ones (longer separations).

When your horses are confidently separating from each other at the trot, it’s time to introduce the same exercise at the lope or the canter. This should solve your “riding apart” problems.

One Rider Exercise to Cure Buddy Sourness If you have no one to ride with you, simply use the same principle of a short separation followed by a reunion, but change your strategy somewhat. Place one horse in a pasture or holding pen where he can see you as you ride your other horse. Start working the horse you’re riding right by the fence line. Do some figure eights, or circles, or whatever, going away from the fence line for about 10 feet, but then coming right back.

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

Increase the separation gradually to 25 or 30 feet, etc, before returning to the fence line. The horse you are riding will be forced to start concentrating on his job and will be under control, but the horse that is loose on the other side of that fence is probably digging a trench, yelling loudly, and generally staying pretty upset. Since you’re not in contact with him you can’t control this, so for now just don’t worry about it. However, once you’ve worked the first horse for a minimum of 20 minutes, it’s now the “trench digger’s” turn to be ridden. Work him pretty hard, asking him to circle, move away from leg pressure, break at the poll, follow his nose into a figure eight, move his hindquarters outside the circle and then inside the circle, etc. Pretty soon the horse who is not being worked will figure out that he has the better of the two deals (he who fusses gets worked, while he who is quiet gets to relax in the paddock!), and will not want to call attention to himself by creating such a nuisance. Depending on the horse, this may well take more than one session, but pretty soon you will have achieved your goal.

When we as horse lovers take the time to understand why our horses behave the way they do, it’s so much easier to come up with a plan of action to resolve challenges, and bring out the best in the horses we love. As you teach your horse these exercises, remember these tips: Safety is always first You must have a secure, independent seat to teach these lessons: if you don’t feel comfortable doing it, have a professional help you The key question should always be, “How can I make it easy for my horse to succeed?”

He or she will become more confident in you and more comfortable in daily routines And you’ll both enjoy the journey together . Until next time, ride safe, ride right, and have fun! © Two as One LLC August 2008.

Bob Jeffreys and Suzanne Sheppard travel nationwide teaching horse lovers how to bring out the best in their own horses. To learn more about their unique, cross-disciplinary teaching methods, Two as One Horsemanship™, visit TwoasOneHorsemanship.com, or call 845-6927478. Their homebase is Two as One Ranch in Middletown, NY.

December 2009 15

Western Pleasure

www.horsedigests.com

© by Jennifer Lindgren

16 December 2009

Want to Win Western Pleasure?

Cues, Pre-Cues, & Mis-Cues Do you ever wonder how much a J u d g e watches a rider in a performance c l a s s ?

Probably more than you think!

The bulk of a placing decision is based upon a horse's quality of movement, performance, and manners. But, in a tough class, the rider is the key to decoding a horse's abilities. If I have several great horses in the ring, I am going to watch how much the riders cue for transitions in addition to watching the transition itself. Too often taken for granted, the cue required to signal a horse is the single most important aspect of creating a flawless picture.

A Cue, simply put, is the method of communication between horse and rider that signals a horse to perform a requested task. To be effective, cues must be consistent, clear and precise. Cues can be physical, verbal, or both.

Although horses weigh 1,000 lbs or more, their spine is so sensitive that they can feel even the slightest movements of the rider. Top horses on the western pleasure circuit move flawlessly with little or no rein contact. While this performance may look effortless to you, the rider is constantly controlling the horse through a series of leg and seat cues. The best schooled horses of any discipline will respond differently to movements from the heels (spurs), calf, thigh, buttocks, hips, arms and hands. Watch the hands of an expert reiner. The motion is very slight but the horse's response is immediate and precise.

How much cueing is acceptable? That depends upon the type of horse and the expertise of the rider. A young walk/trot rider with little legs may need a big kick or a loud 'trot' to get her horse moving. But a professional in an open pleasure class is expected to be much more discreet. The trend, especially in western pleasure, is to have little or no hand movement and signal entirely off of the leg. The verbal cues that are part of the excitement of an English Pleasure or Park Horse class often shock the stock type western pleasure riders.

Your goal is to make your cues as smooth and precise as your abilities allow.

As critical as the cue, Pre-Cues aide in

“setting up” the horse for the coming request.

Pre-Cues are movements or signals by the rider just prior to the direct cue. They are essential to smooth transitions. Many riders don't even realize they pre-cue, but their horse, tuned into every movement, knows what to expect next.

Mistakes at shows occur most often in this stage.

The rider, tense and distracted, doesn't go through the same motions as he did when schooling at home. The horse, unprepared, lopes off on the wrong lead, raises his head or slams into a stop.

To ensure a flawless performance, pre-cues must be as closely regulated as direct cues. I use videotape to help riders identify their habits and to “clean up” their movements ensuring a consistent message for the horse.

It's alright if you take a deep breath every time before you jog off. Just make sure you do the same thing in the show ring. One of my riders has a bad habit of adjusting her hat just before she lopes off. The horse knows this means a lope is coming. But, since she can't touch her hat in the ring, she isn't allowed to do when schooling at home.

Mis-Cues are those signals misunderstood by the horse. Most always the result of rider error, mis-cues can be avoided by focusing entirely upon your horse and his performance. Nervous riders watching other horses or listening to rail chatter aren't as precise with cues as those who are able to tune out distractions. Warm-up rings are a g reat theatre for watching mis-cues. Rushed, impatient, crowded, distracted by cell phones or irritated by an itchy show shirt, riders continually frustrate and confuse their mounts by sending the wrong signal. By the time they reach the in-gate, their performance is already doomed. If you want to guarantee a flawless performance, have a few dress rehearsals at home with your show saddle and show clothes and make sure that you are fully relaxed and your horse “feels” your requests clearly. Your work saddle and show saddle may send different signals to a horse well tuned to your cues.

Jennifer Lindgren has been an All-Breed Judge since 1985. She is an experienced competitor who has earned Regional and National awards in Halter, Western Equitation and Hunter. She loves all breeds of horses and keeps her private collection in Grant Park, IL. contact: jenlind22msn.com

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

Heavenly Gaits Farms Acquires Ivanhoe of Friesian Quest, FPZV Approved Friesian Breeding Stallion Ivanhoe FQ is undoubtedly one of the most decorated purebred Friesian stallion's of our time, will now be standing at stud at Heavenly Gaits Farms owned by Deb Goldmann, in Elkhorn, Wisconsin for the 2010 breeding season.

Ivanhoe FQ bred and raised by 4 time USEF Leading Friesian Breeder, Friesian Quest in Murrieta, CA. Ivanhoe FQ is by the deceased KFPS World Champion Wicher also two time USEF Leading Friesian Sire, out of Jaclyn a Ster Friesian Mare. As quoted by Friesian Quest owner, Robert Hildreth DVM, "We knew Ivanhoe FQ was special just three days after he was born." Ivanhoe proved Dr. Hildreth correct when he won his first Champion title at two months old - 2002 KFPS/FHANA Champion 1st Premie Colt."

Ivanhoe FQ never ceased to amaze the Hildreth's with his natural athletic talent growing up taking 5 foot fences at 2 1/2 years of age, they decided that Ivanhoe would be trained by an open jumping trainer. Since it was generally believed that "Friesian's can't jump",it would be up to Ivanhoe to prove that with the correct breeding, natural talent and training, that the right Friesian can jump. Ivanhoe FQ proved this to be correct, winning his first USEF & IFSHA Horse of the Year Friesian Champion titles at age 3.

Due to Ivanhoe's great mind and athletic ability it became apparent to Friesian Quest that Ivanhoe FQ would be the first of their breeding program to prove the versatility of the Friesian Horse in recognized sport. Ivanhoe answered this challenge in only 2 years of competition earning USEF/IFSHA Dressage, Hunter, Western, and Specialty Horse of the Year Champion, and the highly coveted 2007 USEF Grand Champion Friesian. In 2008, Ivanhoe FQ completed the rigors of the 60 day FPZV Stallion Performance test, proving himself to Federation Nationale licensed officials with good scores at cross country jumping, heavy weight pull, driven dressage, ridden dressage, as well as conformation and movement, ending the event as an FPZV Approved Breeding Stallion, one of only three licensed that year.

Ivanhoes' proud new owner Deb Goldmann states "Dreams do come true! Now that Ivanhoe has been introduced to his new home and barn mates, I can't believe what a well mannered stallion he is," "He fit in well with my herd Andalusian and Friesian alike, and is a Dream to ride. Deb Goldmann of Heavenly Gaits Farms, no stranger to recognition by the USEF, looks forward to a successful 2010 Breeding season for Ivanhoe FQ and the offspring to come.

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

December 2009 17

www.horsedigests.com

Snaffle Bits -Choosing The Right Snaffle

For You & Your Horse

By Tommy Garland Sweet Iron, chrome, stainless, copper, rubber, twists, smooth….the choices are endless and can be overwhelming when it comes to choosing the correct snaffle bit for you and your horse! There are so many textures and types available today it’s important to understand some of the differences and this article will touch on the basics.

One of the first things I’ve learned in my 30+ years of training is that horses like the taste of iron. Not stainless steel, chrome or rubber…iron.

A horse will hold on to a bit that tastes good and the end result is a horse with a much more quiet mouth.

If you have a horse that has a dry mouth, consider choosing a bit containing copper.

Copper stimulates the production of saliva, which will keep your horses mouth lubricated. A horse with a dry mouth typically has a difficult time holding the bit.

On the opposite end of the spectrum are rubber bits. Many of you have told me that you use rubber bits because of the perception that it’s a ‘kinder and more gentle bit’ for your horse. In my training experience, rubber bits will actually cause a horses mouth to become dry and again, it’s important to remember that a horse with a lubricated mouth will have a much easier time carrying/holding the bit.

The second thing I recommend (and I see this happen all the time) is people using full cheek snaffles without the keeper at the top. The keeper actually helps keep the bit in place, which will ultimately make it easier for your horse to hold in their mouth. Full cheek snaffles were

never designed to be used without the keeper…so make sure you use them!

The size of the bit is equally as important as the type. I start my young horses out on a 3/8” snaffle and I may go smaller but I never go any larger than that. Over the years I’ve seen riders put a big, fat snaffle in their horses mouth and then wonder why their horse is constantly rooting or pushing through their hands. The explanation for that behavior is simple….the bit is simply too big.

If your horse is pushing and not respecting the snaffle consider using a twisted snaffle as opposed to a bigger snaffle. A twisted snaffle will teach a pushy horse that there are consequences and will help them learn to respect your hands.

Once they are respectful and responsive, you can always rotate back and forth between smooth and twisted snaffles.

This is a perfect place to talk about your hand placement. If you’re riding in a snaffle bit your hands should be at least as far apart as the width of your horses shoulders. Many people don’t realize that when your hands get closer together or they cross over, the snaffle bit actually works like a vice grip in your horses mouth. The closer together your hands become, the tighter and more uncomfortable the vice grip becomes for your horse. The natural instinct for your horse in this environment is to push and/or root to get out of your hands to alleviate the pressure and pain.

I’ve touched on just a few of the very basics regarding snaffle bits but there’s much more ground to cover in this area. Additional information and images on some of the bits I’ve discussed are available on my new website at www.tommygarland.com.

About Tommy Garland Tommy Garland has ridden horses all his life and credits his trainer father, also named Tommy with teaching him much of what he learned early on about horsemanship. Tommy has spent the past 30 years training not only Arabians and Half-Arabians but Quarter Horses, Tennessee Walking Horses, Paints and Mules as well. His techniques have been universally accepted, respected and utilized by horse owners of all breeds & disciplines.

Tommy resides in Virginia with his wife Dawn and children, Samantha, Katie and TBird (Tommy Jr.). For additional information Tommy’s products, training aids and DVDs and clinic and expo schedule, please visit www.tommygarland.com or email us at info@tommygarland.com.

18 December 2009

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

tice to master. Whether you trail ride or ride English posting is a helpful skill to have in your tool box of riding techniques.

Ask Mary: “How do I learn to post the trot?”

training questions!

Mary is a Mounted Police instructor and a fully insured ARICP riding instructor.

She devotes her creative energy to developing customized training programs to improve show ring performance, mount obedience and despooking trail horses utilizing training methods used in training police

Learning to “post” the trot is a useful skill for all riders to learn. If you are a beginning rider, it is easier to keep your balance posting then it is trying to sit the trot. If you ride a horse with a teeth rattling trot, posting is a lot more comfortable on the rider and the horse then sitting. Posting is useful when training a young horse. You can regulate the tempo of the gait by changing the speed of your posting.

It’s easier to learn the mechanics of posting off the horse. Once you have mastered the physical skill of posting then add the horse component. Begin by kneeling on a mat or other comfortable surface. Hold your hands as if you were holding the reins. Sit back on your feet .Your toes pointing out behind you. (See photo 1). Incline your upper body an inch forward of vertical. Keep your chin up (no looking down).

Step One: Slowly rise up to kneeling position. Use your inner thigh muscles for the movement. Who says riding doesn’t burn calories? This movement is the “up” phase of posting.

Step Two: Now sit softly back down on your feet. This is the “down” phase of posting.

Practice the body mechanics of this horseless posting until you feel comfortable with the movement. Now all you have to do is add the horse. Trot is a two beat gait where the diagonal pairs of legs move together. The left hind and right foreleg move in tandem. Likewise, the right hind and left foreleg move together. Listen to the horse’s footfalls as he trots. It’s a two beat, “boom” “boom” like the sound of a metronome as his feet make contact with the ground. You post with the beat or foot fall of the gait. Listen or feel for the rhythm or have a friend on the ground call it out to you. Rise up for one beat then sit softly down for the second beat. Relax and let the movement of the horse lift you up. Then sit softly down.

It’s a common mistake to push off the balls of your feet to stand up in your stirrups to post.

Instead, use those inner thigh muscles to lift you up out of the saddle. You will feel more secure and balanced posting this way.

Like any other skill, posting takes a little prac-

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horses. Visit her website at www.riderselite.com or email your questions to Mary at: mary@riderselite.comor visit www.riderselite.com

December 2009 19

Dressage - English

M a r y H a m i l t o n y r a M Ask answers your

Dressage - English

www.horsedigests.com more exciting. I almost always went to work the next day, just to prove how tough I was. I now look back on those days and wish I could apologize to them for my lack of knowledge.

I went on to ride Dressage and have had an opportunity to ride smarter. I owe most of my current philosophy to Mari Zdunic and Chuck Grant. There are 2 things that stick out now. One is never set your horse up to fail and two, do not get greedy in what you ask for when training. I am now getting ready to turn forty and I have 2 ? year old triplet boys. I still ride and teach some, my 65 year old mom still rides as well she is an avid trail rider.

I no longer ride for the fight. I train my horses in a quiet setting and have learned to pick my battles. Meaning, I do not try something new, in a new situation. If they look like they need it, I lounge them first to work out the kinks. The horses I work today learn through quiet persistence. I ride quietly and confidently and ask them to trust

It use to be about the fight,

How our riding habits change as we get older

By Nora McAndrew It use to be about the fight. When I was a fearless teenager I worked at a local riding stable. Every spring, I would always look for the rowdiest youngster as the horse I wanted to break in that summer. I did not know a lot, except they needed to know who was boss. I loved to get one that would buck and put up a fight. I got hurt once in a while, but as a teenager getting hurt made it

20 December 2009

me. I no longer get on with the your going to do this or die trying attitude. I need my energy and to stay injury free to keep up with my boys. It is funny how our outlook and needs change with our circumstances. I also do not heal as fast as I did as a teenager. A point I have finally got across to my mom.

Riding should always be fun for both horse and rider. A safe ride does not mean a boring ride. As we grow up, we change, and what we want out of our ride changes as well. It is possible for a reasonably healthy person to ride well into the 70’s or even 80’s if they learn to ride smarter.

There are a few things you need to ask yourself when you are looking for a horse as your life changes. Firstly, what kind of riding do you want to do? There are many different riding disciplines that are fun and with the right horse you will enjoy them for years to come.

Secondly, what kind of horse do you want to ride? Over the years wear and tear on our bodies becomes more evident. You will want to find a horse that you can ride comfortably for the duration of your activity. I am using my mom as an example here. She trail rides; she has ridden across the state of Michigan and done some camping. She used to ride Arabians and still loves them, she still has a couple and one that she still rides. For longer trail rides and camping, she has switched to riding a gaited horse. She has found her stamina is better on the gaited horses because they are more comfortable for her. You may be involved in a particular breed and will want to look within the breed for your next horse. You will want to look for a horse that is comfortable for you, is able to perform what you ask and has a good head. Look for horse with the training, experience and proven temperament for your style of riding.

The last of the important questions is, how old of a horse should you be looking for? The best ages to look at are between 6 and 10 years old. These horses have had the time; training and experience to make them a safe and comfortable mount. Many breeds do not stop maturing until they are around 6 years old and therefore the size and gait may change drastically. This could mean the horse you bought as a three or 4 year old, who was not to big to get on and had a comfortable gait, could change into something you need a mounting block to get on and could move differently. This does not mean that they will be uncomfortable to ride just different.

As you can see I have stressed comfort and safety as the two most important factors in continuing to ride into the twilight of lives. I do not mean that all mature riders should be riding 20 year old ex-4-H horses. There is nothing wrong with them either and they make great mounts. I think that with some serious looking you can find a horse with the energy level you want that also has a proven temperament.

When I was young I loved the challenge and exhilaration of riding unproven horses in unpredictable conditions. Today I am selective of the horses I ride, because I have others who depend on me to be there for them. I want my rides to be a good experience for both of us. That does not mean I do not try new things. I am just mindful of my horse’s mood and our surroundings, before I try new stuff. Today it is about riding smart so I can go trail riding with my boys when they are old enough to have horses.

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Be the Rider Your Horse Deserves

through the crest of his neck, withers, back, loin, croup (top part of the hip), to his dock (the top of his tail, which is the end of his spine). If he is straight, his shoulders and front legs will line up straight to the hip and hind legs. You will barely see his hind legs while looking at him from the front.

Straightness comes first by properly positioning your horse’s head. Handlers can cause a horse to become crooked. One fault is pulling on the longe line or lead shank, which swings the horse’s head out of alignment. Another is standing too close or “crowding” the horse. Handlers with the habit of looking down at their horse’s feet while asking for a maneuver also have difficulty. They are not focusing on the right body parts to evaluate straightness, nor can they see what position changes need to be done to achieve it.

A horse that is standing straight can give you a lighter, quicker response because he is in balance. He can respond more easily than a horse that is out of alignment.

Golden Rules of Ground Training ™ PALM PARTNERSHIP TRAINING™

By Lynn Palm No matter what your horse’s age, ground training will make him a more responsive, obedient partner. Ground training is a must for young horses; and with older horses, it adds variety to your schooling and provides another opportunity to spend time together. Ground training is not mentally or physically fatiguing for a horse so, if you keep the lessons short and interesting, you can do it every day.

Start with the proper equipment: a properly fitting halter, longe line with or without a “stud chain,” leg protection, and a three- to four-foot dressage whip. (I prefer using a longe line instead of a lead when ground training horses.)

Carefully select the training location. No matter what the horse’s age, I recommend starting in the horse’s stall or another small, familiar enclosed area. This will help him stay focused and relaxed. As a lesson is mastered, your horse can graduate to repeating it in a slightly less secure area, such as a paddock or round pen. Also, it helps to have a lesson plan on paper for each training session.

Golden Rule #1: Respect Your Position Make sure that your position in relationship to your horse gives you safety and control. Always stand with your shoulder at the middle of your horse’s neck. Never position yourself further forward than his throatlatch (the area where his head and neck meet), or behind his shoulder.

Standing too far forward, at the horse’s head or in front of his head, is unsafe. Even if a horse is very quiet, a handler standing too far in front of a horse can be trampled if the horse spooks.

Standing too far forward will cause you to lose control of the horse’s head and neck.

Always stand a minimum distance of one arm’s length away from your horse. The most common fault is standing too close. This unsafe position increases your chance of being hit by the horse’s legs or stepped on.

Your hand position controls the horse’s head, which is the most important part of the horse to control. Whether you are standing on the near (left) or off (right) side of the horse, the hand closest to the horse holds the longe line attached to the halter. If you are standing on the horse’s near

side, this will be your right hand; if standing on the off side, this will be your left hand. The hand holding the line should be positioned at the middle of the horse’s head, below the jaw and above the mouth. The other hand holds the excess longe line in organized, loose coils.

Grasp the longe line no closer than five inches from the halter. Your arm should have a slight bend at the elbow for flexibility. Holding the longe line too tight or too close to the bottom of the halter and steering the horse from underneath his head are common problems.

Golden Rule #2: Make Straightness a Goal Straightness in ground training movements is the key to getting quick and correct responses from your horse.

Learn how to evaluate if your horse is straight.

Start by standing at your horse’s side and ask him to stop. When he is stopped and relaxed, move at least 10 to 15 feet in front of him.

Evaluate his top line to determine if his body segments are aligned so that his spine is straight. His poll (the point between his ears which is the beginning of his spine) should be in a straight line

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In the next article, I will give you the final two “golden rules” of ground training.

Visit my website at www.lynnpalm.com where you can sign up for our Palm Partners e-mail training newsletter and shop the on-line store for educational tools like my Longevity Visual Series or my Longevity Training Book, both of which cover ground training.

December 2009 21

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22 December 2009

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Zephyr’s Garden

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Performance Horses

Training for the herd work – mechanical cow vs. live cows

by Monty Bruce

In the reined cow horse competition there are three events; herdwork or cutting, drywork or reining and cow work or fencework.

There is a lot of training that must go into a reined cow horse because it is one of the few disciplines that have three separate events in one.

Today we are going to talk about training for the herd work and discuss using a mechanical cow vs. real cow.

A mechanical cow can be a sophisticatedly fashioned dummy, resembling a cow. They are on a cable pulley system, powered by a variable speed motor controlled by a remote control devise that the trainer wears this on his hand. A mechanical cow can also be as simple as a flag attached to a rope or cable which is strung around two bicycle wheels, one used as a pulley the other with peddles on it used as the power source (to move the cable that is attached to a wall). Most mechanical cows range from 50-150 foot in length.

For the reined #cow horse, training for the herdwork differs from an actual cutting. In a full cutting, once you sort one cow out of the herd you are to put your hand down and the horse is to take over. Each time you pick up and help the horse it is a penalty. In reined cow horse herd-

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work, it lives up to its name “reined”.

You can rein you horse and help it, the judges are looking for position, timing, and control of the cow.

I use a mechanical cow in my training program. I believe it is a very useful tool. Some trainers believe you should only use cattle to train on since that is what you are showing on. If you have an unlimited supply of fresh cattle, you can’t go wrong training on just cattle. But for may of us getting access to fresh cattle year around is almost impossible. Even if I had that available I would still use the mechanicall cow, or flag, as part of my training.

When we start a horse on cattle or the flag we want to keep it really simple, go when the cow goes and stop when the cow stops. Finding that stop is very important, it’s everything in the cow work. The next thing we want to teach is position and rate on a cow or flag, teaching the horse the spot he needs to be at all times, to maintain control. If the cow speeds ups, the horse speeds up; if the cow slows down, the horse slows down; if the cow stops, the horse stops, in correct position and timing.

Using the mechanical cow or flag you can teach all of these elements of training, a horse can learn to watch and read a flag and get very intent and expressive with it. Some of the advantages of a flag are you can control the speed and timing. I spend a lot of time slowly backing through the turns, holding the shoulders up and getting the horse on its hocks before I let them turn. I make sure everything is soft and fluid before I let them turn and go with the flag. If they get stiff and bracey I can stop the flag and soften them up before I let them continue. If a horse is

stiff and bracey they can’t perform to their maximum ability. My being able to control the speed and timing of the flag of a mechanical cow helps me accomplish this. I believe you can help the training of a horse a great deal on a mechanical cow, a lot of it depends on the person learning how to use it correctly. Improper use could take you backwards in your training. While this is a great training tool, I would not want to be without it, nothing replaces the real thing - a living, breathing, unpredictable cow. A horse must learn to watch and read a cow. I believe they enjoy their work more when there is a cow in front of them. The more stock you get your horse in front of the more solid you can make them. You must also have cattle to teach a horse to get out of the herd. Even though you can rein your horse in the herd work, I like to have my horses more solid on the cutting than some trainers do. Some trainers like to have their horses listening to the rider so they can rein them for every move. It is then up to the rider to read the cows. I prefer to have the horses lock on and reading the cow. When a horse gets really solid on a cow, he can tell when a cow is going to move before the cow even does and my horse can take care of me when we get into the show pen. I can just help the horse if he needs it.

So while cattle are essential in training the cow horse the mechanical cow or flag is a very important tool, especially if we are limited on cattle supply.

It takes lots of time and dedication to train a reined cow horse, but it is the ultimate thrill to show and ride a finished cow horse.

Happy Riding, Monty Bruce If you have questions or would like more information log onto Monty’s website at www.montybruce.com

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Montana High Country Cattle Drive Announces Singles Drive

Romance wasn’t one of the goals when the Montana High Country Cattle drive started conducting recreational cattle drives back in 1992, but it has been one of the unintended by-products.

John Flynn, one of the hosts of the annual movement of cows through Montana’s Big Belt Mountains said, “I don’t know if it’s the clear mountain air or being on a good horse in good country but we have had seven marriages and six children so far as a result of the cattle drives.”

Flynn went on to say, “we’ve been encouraged to put on a singles drive for some time and have finally given in to the suggestion. Our first cattle drive of 2010 has been designated a singles cattle drive. I think it is going to be interesting and a blast.”

The dates of the singles’ drive are May 31, 2010 through June 6, 2010.

“Our cattle drives are authentic in that we would be moving these cattle to these locations whether we had guests or not,” said Flynn. “We rely on guests to help so it is important that guests, early on in the week, learn both riding and herding skills so we can get the cattle from spring range to summer pasture. Once we get the cattle to pasture, we celebrate with a big barn dance at an old pole barn at an old homestead.

We invite a lot of the local cowboys and cowgirls to this dance so it is usually quite a shindig.”

For more information on the singles, drive or other cattle drives offered by the Montana High Country Cattle drive, visit the website at www.montanacattledrive.com or call 1-800-3459423.

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Leading Andalusian Breeder, Selwood Park, moves to Florida from Wisconsin After twenty years of breeding and training Andalusians, Lusitanos and more recently

Friesians in Elkhorn, Wisconsin, Gareth A. Selwood is moving his operation to Bradenton, Florida.

“When I started here in 1989 there were not very many Iberian or Baroque horses in the Midwest and now I am happy to say that this year our Regional Championship show in Elkhorn was the biggest in the Nation for 2009” say’s Selwood proudly. In fact horses traveled from Texas, Indiana, Michigan, Missouri, Illinois, Georgia, Minnesota and all over Wisconsin to

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compete with handlers coming in all the way from California. Selwood will continue to manage and produce the “Baroque Horse Classic” at the end of May and the “Regional Championships” in mid August as he has done for the past fifteen years.

In addition to the shows, Selwood will be returning to the Midwest on a regular basis for Clinics, Horse Fairs and Breed Inspections.

“This was a tough decision to make after twenty years of hard work and the wonderful clients I have been supported by. They have all become my friends and their children have grown up with me at the shows. It is going to be very difficult to leave them all”, Selwood stated.

“However, the time is right to move and it has been made all the more appealing by the fact that I am leasing a barn from my good friends, John and Simone Brown of Spanish Legacy Andalusians near Sarasota.

This year was a banner year for our clients and their horses, as Selwood Park accumulated a record twenty one National Championship titles and twenty one Reserves at the IALHA Finals in Fort Worth, Texas with their Andalusian horses. The Friesian Show String was just as successful bringing home over twenty World and National Championships from Lake St Louis, Missouri.

Selwood, a 2004 recipient of the Norman K Dunn trophy and Equestrian of Honor for his work in the Show Ring, is also a Multi carded Judge in the Morgan, Western, Andalusian/Lusitano and Friesian divisions as well as a certified Equine Appraiser. Among the many awards he has received over the years, he is most proud of his multiple USEF PHR/Silver Stirrup Awards for Leading Breeder. As of December 1st, Selwood is again in the lead for Andalusian/Lusitano Leading Breeder and Owner; Nevado OTR, recently purchased by Erin and Steve Whalen of Lake Geneva, Wisconsin looks to be the next Half Andaluian USEF National Grand Champion; Zima BA from Bricco Andalusians took the lead in National Champion Half Andalusian Halter; Ivy’s Nova the National Grand Champion Part Bred Friesian for Ryan Star: Esteban and Hein from Deb Goldmann’s Heavenly Gaits Farm National Champion Friesian Driving and Friesian Youth Champion respectively and a Champion and Reserve win for Tom and Sandy Jacob with their mother/s on combination of Wiesje and Baudewijn Van Bosma.

The future looks bright for Selwood Park horses with the first foal due in March at the beautiful facility at Spanish Legacy Andalusians and the first show in Tampa the same month.

Written by Rahn Griemann, Horse Digests.

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EquineCentral

The perfect place to advertise your Stable, Training Facility, Events, Stallions and more...

Great Value, Great Exposure...both in print and online!

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Horse Quotes

i90

No hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle. ~Winston Churchill People on horses look better than they are.

People in cars look worse than they are. ~Marya Mannes Horses and children, I often think, have a lot of the good sense there is in the world. ~Josephine Demott Robinson It's always been and always will be the same in the world: The horse does the work and the coachman is tipped. ~Author Unknown Heaven is high and earth wide. If you ride three feet higher above the ground than other men, you will know what that means. ~Rudolf C. Binding

28 December 2009

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A Miniature Horse Brings Maximum Happiness For One “Driving For Surviving” Participant

threatening illness. All services are provided free of charge.

Today, Johnson and Ranger are driving together and looking forward to the years to come. Johnson is excited to continue his showing career with Ranger, and is especially grateful to all those who helped unite him with his new partner.

“We are so thankful to everyone who helped make this dream come true for Gary,” said Zlotkin. “With the holiday season approaching we hope that others will consider the dreams of our young terminally ill participants and help them

through gifts to sharingVillage.

“We could never accomplish what we do without our small community supporters like Tewksbury Trail Association and our large supporters such as Ronald McDonald House Charities of the New York Tri- State Area and WineLibrary.com.”

Further information on sharingVillage and the opportunity to donate ponies or miniature horses to the Driving for Surviving program is available on line at www.sharingVillage.org, by email at office@sharingVillage.org or by calling 908-2340334.

It was through a mixture of determination, persistence and generosity on behalf of the equestrian community that one participant of sharingVillage’s Driving for Surviving program was given one of the largest gifts of happiness in one of its smallest packages - a miniature horse named Ranger.

The story unfolded when six-time Olympic dressage rider Robert Dover befriended seventeen-year Driving for Surviving participant Gary Johnson at the National Dressage Championships in Gladstone, NJ. Inclement weather forced the cancelation of a Driving for Surviving exhibition drill at the Championships, in which Gary was to participate.

In lieu of performing, the participants were invited to the USET trophy room to watch the day’s dressage competition. It was there that Johnson and Dover struck up a conversation that would forever change each of their lives. It was Johnson’s enthusiasm, wisdom and overall positive attitude that ultimately won-over Dover’s heart.

“The minute you meet him and learn his story, you see that he’s all smiles and thankful for what he has and for having horses in his life. You have to help a person like that,” said Dover, who was reunited with Johnson at sharingVillage’sThe Pediatric Oncology Equestrian Carriage Driving Program’s annual Human Spirit Award Luncheon in Gladstone, NJ, in October.

After hearing of the loss of Johnson’s beloved driving pony, Boxcar Willie, who had been donated by international four-in-hand driver Jimmy Fairclough and his family, Dover spearheaded a mission to find Johnson a new partner.

Dover was helped by several members of the equestrian community including Mary Phelps of DressageDaily.com, Maureen Pethick and the United States Equestrian Federation, and Johnny Robb and the American Miniature Horse Registry/ American Shetland Pony Club who donated Johnson’s new pony Ranger, to the Driving for Surviving program.

“Without the immense help and support that the equestrian community showed toward Driving for Surviving and toward Gary himself, this would not have been possible,” said Shelley Zlotkin of sharingVillage. “This is a perfect example of all the great work that can be done when people come together and unite for a cause.”

Such is the mission of sharingVillage, a 501c3 not-for-profit New Jersey corporation dedicated to helping child and adult survivors of life threatening illness and their families by providing the tools needed to understand and cope with the challenges of living with illness. Driving for Surviving is a program designed for children who have been diagnosed with cancer or other life

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Trail Horses

ISSUES IN THE SADDLE

tense. It felt as though his barrel was full of air when I got on. We casually walked around the barnyard, where there is a variety of equipment etc. I was going to go on a trail ride but didn't because a storm was imminent. This is not a new area to him. We stopped by a silo. He kept peering around the corner, and all of sudden he did a full body deep quiver/jump, he spooked in place. He continued to feel as though he was ready to spook at any moment, full of fear. I dismounted, and did some groundwork around the very same objects that seemed to bother him just a few minutes earlier. He became more comfortable. He walked over a tarp that was lying on the ground, without difficulty. When I got back on he once again became wary. Is this about me? Yes, I could sense his predisposition when I got on. He was particularly bothered tonight and we just made the same ride a few nights ago. I pay attention to my body and make sure that I am doing deep breathing etc. There are times when he is not like this at all. He is overweight right now due to all the rain that we have been having, could that have something to do with it? He also tends to chew his bit, when on a trail ride, and I know that it is a sign that he is bothered inside.

He does not appear bothered when you catch him up or work with him on the ground. Often, you need to bring his life up. I know that he is holding back in some way, but do not know how to free him up. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thank you, Carol

Nervous horse on trail

by Julie Goodnight Question: Dear Julie, I have an 8-year-old gelding that is very easy to work with on the ground and in the arena. He tends to become uptight, and nervous when he goes on the trail, even when he has ridden on the same trails and pastures for 3 years. He holds his breath and seems to be very wary of things that he has always seen. Tonight he was particularly

30 December 2009

Answer: Carol, As always, it is difficult to diagnose a horse problem over the Internet ;-) As a third party observer in person, I can see the big picture and have a better idea of where the problems are originating.

Nine times out of ten, the rider is contributing to the problem in ways the rider cannot see or feel or comprehend. My guess is that, at the very least, this is a problem of co-dependency between your horse and you.

Obviously your horse likes the comfort and security of being in the arena and around the barn in confined areas and does not feel comfortable out of those very controlled settings.

Since horses are prey animals that live in herds, he is programmed to mirror the actions and emotions of the animals around him; this is an important survival skill for prey animals. When you go out on your own, out of his comfort zone, this behavior is compounded

and he becomes even more reactive to the animals and emotions around him.

When you ride a horse a whole lot of your body is in contact with him, so it does not take much to convey apprehension to the horse. He may even start it himself by sucking his air in and holding his breath (just like humans do when they get nervous) and that is probably putting you "on guard." As soon as you start thinking that he may spook or do something, there are changes in your body that occur as you tense in preparation and to him, that becomes a prompt that something must be wrong, just like he thought. So it becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. Most often when I see this situation developing, the rider picks up on the reins and that conveys even more tension and fear to the horse.

Your horse gains courage on the ground because you are there, in his eyesight, between the scary thing and him. When you are on his back, he is in front and feels more vulnerable.

Also, when you are on the ground YOU are more confident so he gains confidence from you (mirrors your emotion). Conversely, when you are on his back, you feel more nervous (because he is nervous) and that compounds his nervousness.

It is amazing how often horses will act the way you think they will. If you ride your horse with confidence and expect him to do something right, he'll do it. When you think your horse is going to spook or misbehave, he'll do that too. I am certainly not the first person to say that; you'll hear it from many accomplished horse trainers. I know from my lifetime of experience with horses that this is true; maybe not all the time, but more times than not.

We have a horse in training right now that is very spooky, reluctant and balky out on trail with its owner. However, for both Twyla (the trainer that works with me and runs my office) and me, he is steady, relaxed, willing and obedient and we have only had him in training for one week. Part of the problem is engrained disobedience and part of it relates to the confidence and leadership of the rider. We expect the horse to behave, insist upon it really, and we expect him to go down the road like a horse should; and that is indeed what he does. However, he does not yet have that much faith in his owner, and she does not yet have that much faith him (yes, those two things are very connected), but things are improving as 1) the horse becomes more habituated to being an obedient, subordinate horse, and 2) the owner recognizes that her horse can indeed be a good citizen. You may want to consider putting the horse in training to work through this issue and get some miles on him going down the trail. That could help both of you to be more confident .Doing lots of meaningful groundwork that results in a more confident, relaxed and subordinate horse is always a good thing to do and should help your situation. You also need to teach your horse a calm down cue. We teach most horses that come into our barn, and all horses that are nervous and high strung, to drop their head to the ground whenever we ask, either from the ground or from the saddle. Start on the ground with a rope halter and simply put gentle down pressure from the chin knot, watching the horse's head very closely so that you can release at the first sign of the head dropping. At first, you must release when the head moves down just a fraction of an inch; as the horse comes to understand what you want and what will get him the

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release, you can hold the pressure a little longer so the head comes down lower. The first few inches of head drop are harder to get, but in short order, the horse's head will drop all the way to the ground.

It is physiologically impossible for the horse to be tense with his head down (and impossible for him to be relaxed with his head up). So once the horse is trained to drop his head to the ground (which in addition to causing relaxation also causes subordination) you can ask him anytime he gets worked up or "on the muscle" (which is what you are describing in your question), you can ask him to drop his head down. This is known as "putting the horse in the closet;" the closet is a calm, quiet, safe place for your horse.

Teaching the horse to drop his head from the saddle is a little more difficult but if you have him well trained from the ground, it is much easier.

You'll pick up (not back) on ONE rein (not two) and repeat the steps above, releasing as soon as the horse even thinks about dropping his head.

Then pick up the rein again until the horse makes the connection that lowering his head makes the rein pressure go away. Soon he should be happy to go to "the closet" and stay there when you pick up one rein. Remember, you'll have to release the reins to let him drop. If you ask him to lower his head and he does, but then hits the bit, you have punished him for doing what you asked him to do. By the way, pulling on two reins will always make the horse more anxious because now he is worried about his mouth too and that makes him a whole lot more scared. That is a real common way the rider contributes to the horse's fear when he becomes spooky.

When your horse feels spooky to you, put him t work, giving him constant instruction and directives so that he has to focus on you and think of you as the boss of him. You might ask him to turn right, then turn left, then trot right and left, then stop, then go then trot then stop and turn around, etc. Not in a harsh punishing sort of way, just in a “here’s something to keep you form worrying about that” way. This is known as replacement training; you are replacing the unwanted behavior with something else.

Another favorite calm-down exercise for the nervous horse is the three-step circling and lateral gives to pressure. I believe you'll find this on my website in the Q&A section. There are many Q&As on my website about barn sour horses and doing groundwork to establish a leader-follower relationship with the horse, and that will help with your situation too. What your horse needs most are your confidence, leadership and reassurance.

Good luck and be careful., Julie Goodnight, Clinician and Trainer Julie Goodnight has more than a quarter-century of horse training experience. Her varied background ranges from dressage and jumping to racing, reining, colt-starting, and wilderness riding. She teaches "Classic Skills for a Natural Ride" and travels coast-to-coast and beyond to film her award-winning television show, Horse Master, as well as to appear at horse expos, conferences and clinics. Her training and teaching techniques are frequent features of Horse & Rider, The Trail Rider and America's Horse. In 2008 she was named Equine Affaire's Exceptional Equestrian Educator--one of only three awards ever given.

Visit www.juliegoodnight.com.

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Equine VIP

Magali Delgado and Frédéric Pignon talk to Equine VIP

by Susan Ashbrook, owner Equine VIP

On a recent Saturday afternoon in the South of France, Magali Delgado and Frédéric Pignon (the founding stars of Cavalia) took a break from training horses at the family’s Lusitano breeding farm to speak to Equine VIP and to discuss their new book Gallop to Freedom from Trafalgar Square Books (www.horseandriderbooks.com).

1 - When did the idea of Cavalia begin?

Magali answers: We knew we wanted to create a special equestrian show with dressage, liberty act, stunts, live music, and incredible costumes, back when we were traveling from France and training for Arabian Nights in Orlando, Florida. During the trips we took to Orlando, we saw Cirque du Soleil’s show “La Nouba” many times and were so inspired by it. We even tried to contact Cirque du Soleil about creating a show with them. So it was quite intriguing when a man named Normand Latourelle, who produced big events in Canada, came to France to meet us.

He was also dreaming of doing a multimedia equestrian show, but he didn’t really know anything about horses. We were especially interested in speaking with him because he was one of the original founders of Cirque du Soleil. After we met, he came to our farm, saw our horses and things started falling into place for Cavalia.

2 - How do you select the horses of Cavalia?

Magali answers: Frédéric and I brought Lusitano stallions from our farm in France to do Cavalia. When they were just babies, we chose the ones we especially wanted to work with because of a special potential, or the mind, or the conformation that we saw in each. It takes a long time to prepare horses for dressage and liberty work. Also, many of our horses already had experience performing before they went to Cavalia, so they were used to the music, the lights, the audience, and other things in a show.

However, the draft horses and the horses for trick riding, were all bought in Canada and they all had to be trained before the show began.

32 December 2009

3 - How did you manage to write a book on tour? You did seven shows a week on the road with Cavalia. Did you stay up all night or what?

Magali answers: It was not easy. Many times David [co-writer David Walser] could just come for a few days, so we would speak with him during our day off. Then, he usually came to see us working. At night when we came back from the show, we would talk about the book until 3:00 in the morning.

4 - You dedicated your book to Dao and Templado, two of your world-famous Lusitano stallions. Describe what each horse contributed to your philosophy . . .

Magali answers: For me, Dao opened a door to encourage me to work deeply on the mind and on the body of the horse.It was like a revelation every day I was riding him. It was like, ‘Uh-oh, there is another way to work. Open your mind.

Open your senses.’ Dao showed me that. I also feel that Dao came into my life to help me improve my research and to help me train my young horses better with fewer mistakes.

Frédéric answers: When I started to work with Templado I understood that he was very special. He was one of those horses who makes you understand that every horse is very unique.

There is no rule. There are no mathematical ways to understand a horse. Templado was a unique personality. He was not like the hundreds of horses I worked with before and he made me understand that when we work with a horse, we have to adapt ourselves and even adapt everything we’ve learned [before] to this new unique personality.

5 -Question for Magali: There are some incredible shots of you on the beach in Malibu, California, in the book. You were galloping Dao without a bridle in Paradise Cove! Were you sure he would stop?

Magali answers: At the beginning, I was feeling like he could gallop all the way to Los Angeles and we would both be happy. It was such a special feeling to be free with him on the beach. I didn’t care if he was running fast and I don’t think he cared either. You know that feeling—the horse starts to run and you don’t want him to stop. It’s a magical moment in your life.

6 -Question for Frédéric: The book has photos of your two Friesian stallions Phoebus and Paulus when they first arrived on tour at one-anda-half years old. It also shows them all grown up, performing at liberty. How did you train them on tour, along with performing, rehearsing, moving from city to city, and everything else?

Frédéric answers: That was the difficult part

of having young horses on tour. It was like a work in progress. For me, it was interesting to let them learn how it works with music and a show, but sometimes they were like two Friesian teenagers.

They had good experience [on tour] and now they are very professional.

7 - You always look cool and calm in the photos where you’re performing. Don’t you ever get nervous when you’re going on the stage with a horse for the first time or competing?

Magali answers: For me it’s not nerves. I’m really excited. When I have a new horse, I’m always really excited by the results of my horse in the show and to see the reactions of the people.

I’ve been in shows since I was very young and I know myself very well. I need that little point of excitement inside when my heart is going boom, boom!

8 -Questions for Frédéric: How do you deal with pressure situations, like when you’ve got five loose stallions to control?

Frédéric answers: You have to first work on your own stress. It’s why I do yoga. We have to first control ourselves and our emotions. If you can control yourself, then you can help the horses.

9- Your book is the #1 Horse book on Amazon.com. Congratulations! The book will be a great Christmas gift so please tell us how much it retails for?

Magali answers: Gallop to Freedom is a hard cover book and it has a lot of incredible photos! Some of them were taken by Gabriele Boiselle and Frédéric Chehu [world-famous photographers], who are friends of ours. One of my favorite photos was taken by Linda Alexander Walton, who lives in California. It’s of Templado, Frédéric, and myself and it’s right at the beginning of the book. The book sells for $29.95.

10 – What’s next for you?

Magali answers: We are training horses and working on a lot of new projects. We have done some clinics in Europe. My family was one of the first Lusitano breeders in France and we go there everyday to work with the horses.

Counting the mares, the foals, and stallions, there are about 100 horses at my parents.

Frédéric and I have 30 more stallions on our farm and that’s about 20 minutes away, so we’re pretty busy. Of course, having our book come out from Trafalgar is very exciting for us. People are already asking to have it translated into other languages, so we hope that will be next too.

Equine VIP is written by Producer/Host Susan Ashbrook who is developing a TV series based on the success of the website www.equineVIP.com Equine VIP interviews celebrities and equestrian VIPs because “If It’s About Horses, We Cover It”.

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

course, but even those penalties weren’t enough to unseat Poulin from the top spot. In his final outing as a competitive driver, he emerged as the USEF National Pairs Champion.

The final section of Nicoll’s marathon course consisted of seven obstacles (the preliminary competitors did not drive obstacles four, “Mick’s Mountain,” or five, “The Hollow”). Several upperlevel four-in-hand drivers felt that the obstacles were “not technical enough” to adequately test their horses, but this year’s event included everything from preliminary-level single ponies to advanced/FEI-level four-in-hand teams, so the obstacles of course had to accommodate everyone. Six of the current obstacle sites—although not necessarily the obstacles themselves—will be used in next year’s WEG. The two obstacles newly built for this year (numbers four and seven) will be altered and improved somewhat before next year but may remain essentially the same.

The others will no doubt be made more technical for the World Championship. The surprise finisher in Saturday’s marathon was Mike McLennan, who showed a marked improvement in his obstacle driving from last year’s event, finishing the marathon in third place, with fewer than five penalty points separating him from the leader in the marathon, Australia’s Boyd Exell. After several days of heavy rain, the ground at the Kentucky Horse Park was somewhat muddy, and McLennan admitted that “the heavy ground was a little difficult for my horses; coming from Texas, we’re used to something different, especially since we haven’t had rain for two years. But we only lost one shoe out there and somebody found it, so we’re okay. The course was great; you can’t get any better than that.”

In the overall scoring, Chester Weber led the teams of horses from start to finish, and emerged from the cones competition with a record seventh consecutive USEF National Driving Championship. Of the marathon, he said that he believes the track will be “wonderful for next year: the obstacles are well constructed, super horse-friendly, and positioned so that the spectators will be able to see all the action.”

The largest class in the entire competition

Another Successful Lexington Combined Driving Classic

By Jennifer Singleton

The third annual Lexington Combined Driving Classic, held October 1–4 at the Kentucky Horse Park in Lexington, KY, was a resounding success, with nearly a hundred competitors in fifteen classes. This year’s event also hosted the Kentucky Cup (the official test event for next year’s Alltech FEI World Equestrian Games) and six USEF National Driving Championships.

The Kentucky Cup / WEG test event technically included only the advanced/FEI-level horse teams class, but the rest of the competitors either benefited from or, depending on their perspective, had to contend with, the realities of the test event.

With rules and restrictions in place for next year’s WEG, and the ongoing road construction at the Kentucky Horse Park, competitors were limited to only one golf cart on the grounds. In addition, these were restricted to the actual roadways and were not allowed on the grass of the marathon course. The route from the stables to the warm-up and competition arenas was a milelong loop around the back of the park. The main road through the park that the drivers were previously in the habit of using will be reserved for pedestrians at next year’s World Equestrian Games.

However, as several drivers noted, along with these minor hardships came the thrill of competing in the same arena that will hold next year’s WEG competitors. Another benefit: the tremendous learning opportunity that results from driving in front of next year’s WEG ground jury: Diana Brownlie (GB), Peter Bonhof (NED), Klaus Christ (GER), Martha Nicoll (USA), and Hanspeter Ruschelin (SUI). All five of them judged the advanced/FEI-level classes, while only three judged the preliminary- and intermediate-level classes.

In all but two classes, the leader after the dressage phase went on to win the class. Of these, veteran driver Larry Poulin had the best dressage score of the entire competition: 37.50 penalty points. This was Poulin’s final competition before he retires from driving to concentrate on ridden dressage. He described the move as almost like going on vacation because he has for many years been maintaining a rigorous schedule of training / competing in combined driving and training / competing—with the same horses—in ridden dressage at the Prix St. Georges / Intermediate I level. After his auspicious start, Poulin went on to win the marathon in the advanced/FEI-level horse pair class. He finished with 7.64 penalties on Richard Nicoll’s long cones

MIDWEST HORSE DIGEST

were the advanced/FEI-level single horses, with sixteen entries. Fritz Grupe led the field after dressage, with a score of 50.05. Grupe’s lead after the marathon was secure enough to handle some penalties on the cones course, but with several balls down and time penalties (a total of 10.77 points in all), his win ended up being a bit less secure than he must’ve liked. During the end of his run through the cones course, all the four-in-hand drivers gathered by the rail, awaiting their chance to walk the course, whooped and hollered as Grupe leaned forward after the final set of cones to urge his horse to gallop to the finish line. Not surprisingly, Grupe was pleased with his win in the USEF National Single Horse Driving Championship, especially considering that his horse had been driven as a single only three times.

After all three phases of the competition, the following drivers won their classes at the 2009 Lexington Combined Driving Classic.

Preliminary: Single pony: Paul Maye of Fairfield, VA (overall score: 99.88) Single horse: Dean Lacey of Garden Valley, CA (99.84) Pony pair: Boots Wright of Ocala, FL (106.53) Horse pair: Lew Smith of Round Top, TX (124.09) Intermediate: Single pony: Debbie Schuster of Chardon, OH (114.99) Single horse: Marcie Quist of Vass, NC (136.71) Pony pair: Caroline Whittle of Columbus, NC (141.38) Horse pair: Misdee Wrigley Miller of Lakewood Ranch, FL (141.58) Tandem pony: Mark Dahlberg of Solon Springs, WI (179.48) Advanced/FEI / USEF National Championships: Single pony: Suzy Stafford of Bear, DE (120.92) Single horse: Fritz Grupe of Stockton, CA (134.08) Pony pair: Tracey Morgan of Beallsville, MD (130.40) Horse pair: Larry Poulin of Petersham, MA (123.52) Four-in-hand of ponies: Lisa Stroud of Kennett Square, PA (145.14) Four-in-hand of horses: Chester Weber of Ocala, FL (131.35) Next year, in place of the Lexington Combined Driving Classic, will be the eagerly anticipated 2010 Alltech FEI World Equestrian Games. The driving portion (four-in-hand teams of horses only) will begin with the first day of dressage on October 7 and end with the cones competition on October 10, 2010.

December 2009 33

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Place your photo classified here for $20.00 per

Thumbnail Photo Classifieds month just call 507-943-3355 for more info Plus you can also place your ad online at

www.HorseDigests.com For Sale AA PRITI PRITI, 2005 BAY ANDALUSIAN FILLY, (Piri Piri x AA Despierta) $12,000.00 US National Top Five Futurity Filly in hand 2008 Just started under saddle 262-249-8870 selwoodp@idcnet.com AA DESPIERTA, Elite Winner of the GANADOR Trophy, (Despierto x Ardorosa del Greco) $15,000 Andalusian In foal to US National Champion 3rd level dressage horse "Legado".She is carrying a "sexed" male foal.Available in utero for $10,000 262-249-8870 selwoodp@idcnet.com

8 YR. MARE, Gorgeous, Beginners Dream Horse!

Barrel racing and trail. $4,000 Pinto-Beginners, young or old, this is the horse for you. Gentle, smooth, and a nice barrel horse, great on trails too. Call 605-670-9098 harttraining@hcinet.net BEAUTIFUL HALF-ANDALUSIAN, EXCELLENT DRESSAGE, EVENTING PROSPECT-$6,000- gorgeous half-Andalusian filly, nicely started under saddle, ready for show, trail, or putting fabulous sport babies on the ground. 715-822-392 SADIEMAEJONES@yahoo.com

Fiero LFA,PRE Black Andalusian Stallion. International Champion of Champions international bloodlines, Proven producer, Proven Junior Champion Stallion and USDF Dressage Competitor. 817205-9268

maryclaeys@cdibb.com

Equipment Trailers with or without living quarters, gooseneck and bumper pull, Keifer Built and Universal Trailers 320-363-4650 joejohnson@clearwire.net

Stallions and Stallion Auctions

ZINNIA BA ANDALUSIAN MARE (Despierto x Zinnia) US Reserve National Champion Andalusian Mare $15,000. Well started under saddle, Great Broodmare, Proven Show Horse 262-249-887 selwoodp@idcnet.com

Gold N Rio - Dble. reg. purebred Arabian & Pinto Stallion, AHA Sweepstake Sire; SCID Clear - $1,000 Cooled Shipped Semen - $750 Live Cover; $7.50 Daily Mare Care - Limited Breedings Available. www.heartnsoularabians.com 507-438-9335

The Elite Fleet by 3BarL Transport 1*800*982*2208 Horse Transportation Short Description: Affordable - Experienced - Reliable -Specialized dispatch462003@yahoo.com

Amazing Buckskin 1/2 Andalusian Filly (Azteca) First foal from Flamenco D! Stunning and RARE SOLID BUCKSKIN 2008 Andalusian Filly (Azteca)

URGEL III. PROVEN PRODUCER OF MOVEMENT! ANCCE Revised, 16.1 hands (Danes III by Maja VII). His foals are of consistent quality and have his conformation, power, movement, kindness, and love for people. 940-6860910 ranchoandalucia@earthlink.net

Discount prices on the full lines of ThinLine, Skito, and SnugPax products. Also highestquality rhythm beads and horsehair items.

207-951-0526

972-746-1457 vintageandalusians@hotmail.com Very Tall, Huge Moving Son of Heroe Mac! Extra tall yearling Andalusian Colt. (Azteca) Lovely forward movement and a quiet mind.

972-746-1457 or vintageandalusians@hotmail.com 6 YR. AQHA BARREL RACING Mare, what a beauty! $8,000 Great little barrel mare, perfect turns, gentle and well mannered. Makes barrel racing super fun.

605-670-9098 harttraining@hcinet.net

34 December 2009

3X NATIONAL CHAMPION PRE (ANCCE) REVISED STALLION SPOKANE! Royally bred with Rockstar Movement recognized by American & Spanish judges, add size, substance & movement to your breeding program.

972-746-1457 vintageandalusians@hotmail.com Famous Echo Homozygous! World Champ. Halter stallion! direct son of The Color of Fame.2004 Pinto Horse of the Year and the 2004 Pinto World Champion Halter Stallion 715-210-5371 Cleekarabians@yahoo.com

Services and Products

6 ACRES 30 MILES WEST OF DEKALB, IL.House/6 acres 30 miles west of Dekalb, IL next to Franklin Creek State Park/miles of trails.

Call Mike at 8478673836 legume@charter.net Call us Today at

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Classifieds

Sabino to Pintaloosa.

ISHRPPA@AOL.COM

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Horse Lovers! Would you like to own your ownbusiness helping horses, working your own hours and make about $75 an hour plus excellent sales commissions? 7 Year old company needs reps for US, Europe, Australia, etc. Our success rate is amazing, and we can show you what to do and how to do it. No pushy sales people, please. Ifyou love horses, PLEASE visit the THERAPY page at www.sumereltraining.com to learn more. In 2 weeks you could be in a new career. Part or full time. $5,000 covers all equipment. Exclusive territories and excellent company support. If you already work with horses, this could help you as well. 540-384-6220

Here is your chance to have a horse owned and trained by Ken McNabb! You may have seen Flash on TV! He is a STUNNING 16.1 hand, sorrel overo 7 y old gelding. Sonny Dee Bar and the Intimidator on his papers. He is a rock solid trail horse and very gentle. Purchased at Ken's gelding sale last summer..so was recently with Ken. You will be the talk of the trails! $4800.

12/12/2009 - MN, Lindstrom -Barrel - UBRA Falcon Ridge Barrel Racers UBRA Winter Series Barrel Race Series starting at 12:30am. - (651) 4622129 - damark01@mmm.com

Pony, brown and white, 7 year old gelding. Gentle for anyone to ride. Also, Pony or horse cart.

Phone- 952-467-9603 1209

December 19-20, 2009 – Central Minnesota AQHA Team Penning and Ranch Sort, Red Horse Ranch Arena, Fergus Falls, MN, 218-736-3000, rhra@prtel.com, www.RedHorseRanchArena.com

EQUIPMENT & PRODUCTS Carts, Buggies, Carriages & Sleighs for sale.

Horse, pony & mini sizes. All prices, all in good condition. Also driving horses, ponies & harness.

847/360-9313.

2008 Drum Horse Filly – English or Dressage prospect. Beautiful thick body and loves people.

269/944-3459.

17-1/2” Close Contact Jumping Saddle. Made in England. Smooth chestnut bridle leather with pigskin seat. Very good condition, well cared for.

Fittings, white fleece pad & 52” leather girth included. $350 OBO. Photos available, email peppermintkid58@yahoo.com or call 708/2842230.

16 Inch Brown Leather English Saddle, like new purple pad included. $250. 630/564-2884.

10 box stalls,- 1-x1- - Brand new, no wood.$13,000. Choose your color. Contact 507-527-2914. Will sell individually.

1209 New leather harness, 3rd generation business.

Team, work, complete with hames, collars extra.

Draft $802.00. Qtr. horse $757.00. Show 3 hip-Draft $882.00. Qtr. horse $812.00. Buggy breastQtr $220.00 Pony $140.00. Catalogue - St PaulSaddlery, 953 W 7th St., St Paul, MN 551021209 Master Saddler offers complete saddlery repairs.Trees replaced, complete reflocks, new seats,billets, tree alterations on Kieffer and Prestigesaddles. Appointments booked for quick turnaround. Skilled repair of driving harness andsidesaddles. Custom accessories for side saddle competition. Bridles sewn in. Contact Michael 847-776-6700 or email master_saddler@saddlersrow.com Website www.saddlersrow.com 1209 HORSES FOR SALE 2007 Buckskin gelding, cow bred, good disposition and 100% foundation. 2008 Bay Stallion, Poco Bueno, Martin's Jessie and Hollywood Gold. Stud Prospect.2008 Buckskin Stallion, 34% Poco Bueno, 22% King, 100% foundation. Stud Prospect. 620-378-3152 2/10 Beautiful Buttermilk buckskin Mare!! Smart, willing, and really sweet, broke to ride outside or in an arena. Needs a intermedite ridder!! She is built for speed but could be just a nice trail or ranch horse if someone is willing to put time into her, up to date on shots, worming, and trimming 920-566-0241 .

International Spotted Horse Registry for Equines of Color. Miniature to Draft, Grade to Pureblood,

866-201-3098,

Athletic, Flashy 8 YO TB Gelding, 16.1H beautiful gaits, upper level eventing potential. $12,000.

SE Wisc. - 847/924-9089.

Foundation AQHA horses, mares, geldings and yearlings. King, Driftwood and Gunsmoke breeding. Bays, Grays and Duns. 608-526-3970 or(cell) 608-792-3519 12/09 Andalusion/Quarter Horse - 4 year old, Black Bay Gelding, 30 days training, pleasure & trail ridingso far, very athletic, excellent disposition. IALHA registered 605-272-5623 or rlr@itctel.com 12/09 Andalusian/Quarter Horse - 2 yr. old bay filly & yearling black bay colt, very athletic, excellent disposition, lead, trailer, load, stand for farrier, eligible for IAHLA registry. 605-272-5623 rlr@itctel.com 12/09 2007 Bay Overo English Prospect, started under saddle and still in training. Good looking, big bodied, nice stride, good minded and great manners.15.2 and still growing. Asking $9500.

815/238-8462.

For Sale: 16 Yr. Buckskin Paint Gelding. Needs experienced rider. 815/943-7031 evenings.

Appaloosa Reg. Mares. 3 Yr+ Gentle, pretty, friendly. Will be great under saddle. Reasonably priced. 815/814-1803.

Looking for Good Home for Loveable Chestnut gelding. No fee for right person. 312/307-9411.

Black Stallion TB & Paint 16 Hds, 3 Yrs. TB Mare,12 yrs, 16.3 Grdaughter Mr. Prospector.

100 yr. Old coal wagon. Priced reasonably.

815/528-0259.

STALLIONS Dakota Gambler Rare Black and White Pintabian At Stud: Proven 99.6% Purebred Arabian.

Athletic, Correct, Beauty, Elegance, Kind disposition with awesome movement.

Registration Numbers: 320-283-5933, spruchlo@gctel.com Pure Friesian "ROEK" 2nd Premie Stallion.

ROEK has a great pedigree, to match his great intelligence, temperament, and CHARISMA. 218-780-7064, dr.horseslave@yahoo.com.

VACATIONS The first Montana High Country Cattle Drive of 2010 will be a singles drive. If you are into horses and romance, please visit our website at www.montanacattledrive.com. or call 1-800-3459423 for more information.

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Upcoming Events 12/19/2009 - MN, Monticello - Team Roping Arrowhead Arena Team Roping - (763) 878-1554 arrowheadarena@tds.net

12/20/2009 - MN, Sebeka - Barrel - UBRA - LD Ranch UBRA Barrel Race Series starting at 10:30am - (218) 472-3402 betsykuschel@hotmail.com 12/31/2009 - MN, Backus - Barrel, Roping U B R A NEW YEAR'S EVE BASH! Barrels, Poles, Team Roping, Breakaway - (218) 947-3777 kstranch@paulbunyan.net 1/1-1/2 - IA, Greenfield - Barrel, Team Roping Double B Productions - 2 day barrel race & team roping on Sat (Jan 2). (pre entries required or late fee day of race). - (641) 745-5845 bolling@iowatelecom.net 1/1-1/29 Auction, Barrel JJ Classic Online Stallion Service Auction including sons of Fire Water Flit, Frenchmans Guy & More! - (715) 857-6343 info@ubra.org 1/1/2010 - MN, Monticello - Team Roping Arrowhead Arena Team Roping - (763) 878-1554 arrowheadarena@tds.net January 9-10, 2010 – Central Minnesota AQHA Team Penning and Ranch Sort, Red Horse Ranch Arena, Fergus Falls, MN, 218-736-3000, rhra@prtel.com, www.RedHorseRanchArena.com January 22-24, 2010 – Motokazie, Red Horse Ranch Arena, Fergus Falls, MN 218-736-3000, rhra@prtel.com, www.RedHorseRanchArena.com FEBRUARY 6, 2010 –University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine Horseman’s Clinic, Urbana, IL. Contact 217/333-2907 or vetmed.illinois.edu/ope/horseclinic/ February 6-7, 2010 – Central Minnesota AQHA Team Penning and Ranch Sort, Red Horse Ranch Arena, Fergus Falls, MN, 218-736-3000, rhra@prtel.com, www.RedHorseRanchArena.com 2/26-2/28 - IL, Sterling - Barrel D o u b l e - B Productions - Fuzzy Wuzzy Barrel Race ONE PAYOUT ON SUNDAY. $2000 added. Enter up to 4 times max. Also Open 2D slo - (641) 745-5845 bolling@iowatelecom.net February 27th, 2010 – Roberts, WI – Willow River Riders Saddle Club 7th Annual Tack Swap and Sale – St. Croix Central Elementary School; 202 S. Division St., Roberts, WI; 10:00 AM – 3:00 PM. New & used tack & clothing, feeds, crafts, jewelry, plus a variety of other equine related items. For more information about vendor spots or consignments, contact Deb Hagen at 715-549-5416.

Please email your event lisitings to PEG@HORSEDIGESTS.COM

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