Gardeners On the Go! Spring 2013

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SPRING 2013

go! on the WITH

MAGAZINE

Time-Saving Gardening Tips Great Garden Destinations Small-Space Gardening From Garden to Table


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Native Haunts


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EDITOR’S NOTE Spring Thoughts

PRODUCT

Our Favorite Things

SPECIAL SECTION Spring Planning Guide

TIME-SAVING TIPS When Less Is More

CONTAINER GARDENING Large and Loud

COMMUNITY GARDEN Peace, Science and Gardening

SMALL SPACES

Interest for All Seasons

TRAVEL TIPS

Let’s Celebrate Public Gardens

PLANT PROFILES The Long Haul

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KITCHEN GARDENING Radishes


Beautiful Plants for the Waterwise Garden

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EDITORIAL edit@hortmag.com Community Leader Patty Dunning Editor Meghan Shinn CONTENT CONTRIBUTORS Patty Dunning, Jenny Koester, Meghan Shinn, Maria Woodie DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY Art Director Christy Cotterman Designer Bethany Rainbolt Managing Photographer Ric Deliantoni Photographer Al Parrish Associate Video Editor Philip Grosvenor ADVERTISING advertising@hortmag.com VP, Sales Dave Davel Advertising Sales Jenny Koester 513-531-2690 x11365 Advertising Sales Coordinator Kathy Budsberg F+W MEDIA INC. Chairman & CEO David Nussbaum CFO James Ogle President David Blansfield SVP, Operations Phil Graham Chief Digital Officer, eMedia Chad Phelps Director, IT Jim Kuster Director of Finance Trent Miller Events Director Cory Smith Audience Development Paul Rolnick

Privacy promise: Occasionally, we make portions of our customer list available to other companies so they may contact you about products and services that may be of interest to you. If you prefer that we withhold your name, simply send a note with the magazine name to: List Manager, F+W Media Inc., 10151 Carver Road Suite 200, Blue Ash OH 45242.

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I’VE COME TO REALIZE that gardening is as much about people as it is about plants. After a cold and snowy winter, I’m looking forward to getting out in my garden not only for the fresh air but for the chance to connect with my neighbors again. I do most of my gardening in the front yard, so I often end up chatting with my neighbors and passersby when I get out to plant, weed or water. Recently I was talking with the woman who lives across the street—on the phone, during a surprise snowstorm. She ended the conversation with “I hope to see you out in the

It takes a long time to grow an old friend. ~ John Leonard

garden soon!” That day can’t come quickly enough.

I hope you enjoy reconnecting with garden

friends, old and new, this spring. In the meantime, read on for advice from more “garden people” across the United States.

— Meghan Shinn :: E D I T O R

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the year of the dragonfly Time to pay homage to dragonflies – and their cousins, the damselflies (order Odonata). These double-winged creatures are fantastic skeeter eaters. They just devour all sorts of pesky insects, like mosquitos, ants, flies, gnats and termites. If you don’t already have these flying friends zipping around your yard, you might want to start attracting them to your garden. The colorful little guys are fun to watch...big red ones, little blue ones and iridescent green pond lovers. Dragonflies can fly forward at about 100 body lengths per second and backwards at about three body lengths per second; and they can hover in the air for about a minute. Water is essential for dragonflies, but size of the source doesn’t matter. If you don’t have an in-ground pond, consider making a water garden in a large container, like a half wine barrel. That’s enough to bring dragons and damsels to your garden. A mini water garden is an easy project to tackle in hot weather and it will really pay off.

attract dragonflies to your garden While dragonflies are carnivores and don’t rely on plants for their diet, they are partial to foliage in and around the pond where they can safely hang out. They need shelter, relief from the heat and a place to lay their eggs. Like butterflies, they enjoy flat rocks near the water where they can warm themselves by basking in the sun. Plant Grasses, like Sedge, Sweet Flag, Cattail and Horsetail, around the perimeter of the pond. Never mow the grasses; you want thick, dense, lush plants to nurture our bug-eating friends.

splash of color Layer in some color around your pond, starting with Siberian Iris. They are the water-loving Iris, unlike African types that are just the opposite. Plant around the edge of the pond, or keep in the container and submerge in the water. Ruffled Velvet has huge deep purple flowers and Chilled Wine has pretty red-violet blooms. Another one to try is Variegated Japanese Water Iris, which has bright purple flowers and, when not in bloom, still adds interest with bright foliage. All are quite cold hardy, to zone 4.

plants to pond-er Cannas make a big statement with huge flowers in red, orange, yellow, white and rose…plus foliage ranging from green and gold to almost black. Tropicanna® Gold has big leaves of green with gold stripes and vivid yellow-orange blooms. Tropicanna® Black, with its dark chocolate foliage and bright red flowers, will provide great contrast against green and gold-leafed plants. Tropical Yellow, with its huge yellow blooms flecked with rose, would be very pretty alongside purple Iris. Don’t forget Elephant Ears for a lush, tropical look to a water garden. They are part of the Taro root family, eaten throughout Polynesia and tropical Asia. They will spread freely in lush, damp soil. Try the dusty-black, extra large foliage of Black Magic.

dry conditions pond-side? Those in drier climates might have a pond, surrounded by rocks and need more water-wise plants. Yarrow is easy to grow, has long-lasting brightly colored flowers and lacy foliage. Coronation Gold and Moonshine have cheery yellow blooms; Paprika brightens the garden with red-brown flowers. Tall Verbena thrives in hot, dry conditions, and its showy rose-purple flowers are long lasting. Fountain Grass is another good choice for dry areas around your pond. Fireworks has strappy variegated foliage of white, green, burgundy and hot pink. Little Bunny is a dwarf variety, reaching just 12 inches, yet full of fluffy white tassel-like blooms.


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Spring

PLANNING GUIDE

Follow these tips to keep new and existing plantings growing strong

by Meghan Shinn


S

pring brings with it fresh growth, plentiful rain (we hope!) and a barrow-load of tasks to complete in the garden. Here are timely reminders to help you organize your efforts and ensure that you’re getting new plants off to a great start, and setting old plants up for a fantastic growing season.

TREES & SHRUBS

New trees and shrubs are best planted in the fall, but spring is the next best option. Make your planting hole as deep and two to three times as wide as the tree or shrub’s container. The plant should sit at or slightly above the level it was in the container. Be extra vigilant about keeping it watered, especially through the heat and strong sun of summer. Existing trees should not be pruned in spring, except to remove dead, diseased or damaged limbs. Pruning healthy limbs now would reduce the tree’s capacity for building back its energy reserves. Wait until midsummer or, better yet, late next winter to prune live growth. Existing evergreen shrubs can be pruned or sheared, but be sure to cut only into green growth. Branches cut back to the brown section will not regrow. Prune deciduous shrubs that bloom on last year’s growth just after they flower. Prune those that bloom on new growth, or those grown for their foliage, in early spring before growth starts. All shrubs can take an application of granular fertilizer scratched into the soil around the drip line, once in early spring and again in late spring.

PERENNIALS

The earlier that new perennials are planted, the better equipped they’ll be to deal with next winter’s weather, so plant new perennials in early spring. Plant

them at the same level as they sat in their container. Keep them watered through the summer and into fall. This applies to “drought-tolerant” plants too, because they are generally drought tolerant once established, and it can take a year for a plant to become fully established in its location. Transplant existing perennials in early spring and treat them as you would new plants. Divide summer-blooming perennials now, but hold off on dividing spring bloomers until late summer. Feed perennials in early spring and apply a top-dressing of compost to boost soil fertility and health.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Plant new ornamental grasses early in spring so they can settle in before the heat of summer. Water them consistently through their first summer, even if they are labeled drought tolerant. If you left existing grasses standing for winter interest, cut them back to four to six inches tall in early spring, before growth resumes. Ornamental grasses generally do not need fertilizer. They can be divided in spring or late summer, but the former is a better choice for those that bloom from midsummer on. Dead centers can be dug out and discarded in spring, with the healthy outer growth replanted to replace it.

BULBS, TUBERS & THE LIKE

Gladiolus, lilies, begonias, canna and elephant ear are some of the bulbs and tubers that can be plant-


ed in spring for summer bloom or foliage. Plant them at a depth three to four times their height and water them in. Feed existing spring-blooming bulbs with a bulb food as their leaves begin to nose up out of the ground. Allow their foliage to yellow, wither and die down naturally after they bloom. The bulb uses the foliage to rebuild its energy stores. Once it is completely brown and dry, the foliage can be removed.

ANNUALS

Hold off on planting annuals until the air and soil temperature is consistently warm—in

• Feed existing spring-blooming bulbs with a bulb food as their leaves begin to nose up out of the ground. other words, past all danger of a frost or cold snap. (Cool-season annuals such as pansies, sweet peas, snapdragons and nasturtium are an exception.) If you started seeds indoors, slowly acclimate your seedlings to the open air. If you buy annuals and you can’t plant them right away, keep them watered while they wait. Water the plants well and the bed lightly just before planting them. Loosen their roots before placing them in the hole, and keep them watered as they get established.

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• Plan ahead to make the most of your edible-gardening space.

THE EDIBLE GARDEN

Plan ahead to make the most of your edible-gardening space. Succession planting and intercropping are two great techniques to try. In succession planting, batches of one crop get a staggered start on growth, so that the harvest lasts over a longer period of time, instead of coming all at once. For instance, make three rows for lettuce. Sow (or transplant) the first row in week one. Two weeks later, sow or transplant the second row. Two weeks later, sow or transplant the third row. At this time you’ll likely be harvesting the first row, after which you can devote that space to a crop that enjoys warm summer temperatures better than lettuce does.

In intercropping, plants with complementary growing needs but contrasting growth rates share the same space. Small, quick-growing, quick-toharvest plants are grown alongside slower-growing crops. For example, beets or radishes could be grown close to carrots, because they will be harvested before the carrots begin to compete. Intercropping can also make a site more hospitable to certain crops; for instance, short, shade-tolerant vegetables, such as lettuce or basil, can be grown in the shadows of taller, sun-loving plants, like tomatoes. MEGHAN SHINN is Horticulture’s editor.

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Sonoran Sonata The beauty of the desert comes to life at this Phoenix garden by Ray Leimkuehler & John Sallot photographs by the Desert Botanical Garden & Adam Rodriguez

T

HE DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN in Phoenix, Ariz., grew from a true cactus-roots organization that aimed to conserve the local environment. In the 1930s, botanist Gustaf Starck (himself a transplant from Sweden) set up a sign reading “Save the Desert,� with an arrow pointing toward his home. Soon he had attracted enough like-minded folks to form the Arizona Cactus and Native Flora Society, with the purpose of making a botanical garden celebrating the Sonoran Desert. With the support of benefactor Gertrude Webster and the work of many volunteers, the garden opened in 1938.

Entryway aloes hint at the fanciful shapes and colors visitors will find within the Desert Botanical Garden.

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Right: During the month of December, the garden is illuminated with twinkle lights and luminaria bags in the annual Las Noches de las Luminarias event. Far right: Golden barrel cacti huddle at the edge of the Desert Discovery Loop Trail. Bottom: A Julia butterfly sips nectar at the garden.

Today the Desert Botanical Garden welcomes over 600,000 visitors each year on its mission to foster appreciation and understanding of desert plants, animals and habitats. Guests also learn about the unique cultural heritage of the Southwest, and the roles native plants have played in such. At the Desert Botanical Garden you’ll be amazed by the curious, resilient and beautiful cacti, succulents and other dwellers of the desert.

GARDEN HIGHLIGHTS

Here are a few reasons to visit the Desert Botanical Garden:

COMING UP AT THE DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN SPRING BUTTERFLY EXHIBIT March 2–May 12, 2013 Take a stroll through the beautiful Marshall Butterfly Pavilion and find yourself surrounded by hundreds of fluttering butterflies. Watch as butterflies sip nectar and bask in the sun in this lush and colorful habitat. Special outdoor displays showcase plants that attract butterflies, and there’s an exploration station where you can learn more about these delicate winged creatures.

THE DESERT WILDFLOWER LOOP TRAIL—This twoacre ode to desert wildflowers and their pollinators has something blooming all year long, but usually peaks in March and April. PLANTS & PEOPLE OF THE SONORAN DESERT— Learn how Southwestern peoples have used various plants for food, fiber, medicine and culture throughout history in this living exhibit. BERLIN AGAVE YUCCA FOREST—Witness the dramatic shapes and textures of agaves, yuccas and nolinas here. STEELE HERB GARDEN—This section highlights desert-adapted herbs arranged in five distinct beds, including a Picante Garden and a Sensory Garden.

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DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN 1201 N Galvin Parkway Phoenix AZ 85008 480-481-8188 dbg.org IN THE AREA Here are just a few other attractions in the Phoenix area. Click to visit their websites: Heard Museum Phoenix Zoo Arizona Science Center Japanese Friendship Garden Besh-ba-gowah Archeological Park

FAVORITE PLANTS FOR SPRING

Ray Leimkuehler, a horticulturist at the Desert Botanical Garden, shares some Sonoran plants that shine this season: MESQUITE TREES (Prosopis spp.; top) are a wonderful desert tree and probably one of the most fascinating. Mesquites provide shade to the traveler and nesting and forage sites for birds and tree lizards. Coyotes love the beans dropped in early summer, and the sweet pods can be ground into flour. AGAVE (Agave spp.; bottom left) is a plant like no other, with its serrated bayonet-like leaves. Many agaves bloom in the spring, sending a stalk many feet into the air, topped with flowers loved by hummingbirds or bulbils that will fall and root. POMEGRANATES (Punica granatum; bottom right) will be full and green across the valley, and in late spring they’ll have the first whispers of red flowers. If the birds let them be, such flowers will become globular fruits, full of seeds that were the bride price of Persephone, the sin of Eve, the promise of Heaven, Castile’s threat for Islam’s end in Spain and a favorite of conquistadors spilling red blood to the tears of Mesoamerica. THE SACRED DATURA (Datura wrightii) returns from her winter slumber in the month of March. This most beautiful flower in the desert rises from a tuber into a magnificent sprawling shrub of violet velvet stems, dull dark green leaves and blossoms as wide as the hand, white as the moon. One and all of these fascinating plants are brought together by the WILDFLOWER ANNUALS that color the land in spring.

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TAKE-HOME ADVICE: TIPS FOR SPRING GARDENS Spring is a good time to begin planting perennial shrubs and desert trees, as well as daturas, cacti and agaves. A change in the season means it’s time to increase the irrigation cycles on your time clocks. But remember, in the summer months the stress on plants is at its greatest, and the time period from spring to summer is insufficient for most plants to have created a dynamic root system. As the desert moves in the summer months, keep an eye on new plantings and give them supplemental water if they appear to be stressed. Keeping plants watered well in the spring will put the arid-lands gardener ahead for the summer. Ere the ides of March, the lower desert will be past the danger of a last-minute frost. All the blackened branches from the deep freeze in early January can now be safely pruned, as the observant gardener will notice where new growth has sprung forth and which branches are truly dead. Shrubs blackened and withered by the frost can be cut to six inches above the ground; they will regenerate themselves. New leaves are not the only things emerging with the growing warmth. Some pests will make themselves known. Psyllids may appear on some legume trees; flea beetles show up on the datura and primrose; and agave snout weevils will be active in the warmer weeks of April. Spray your legumes with a strong jet of water to blast the psyllids. Flea beetles leave in the summer, or they can be sprayed with a half isopropyl alcohol, half water solution. If you see evidence of snout weevils, it is best to dig up those infected plants and throw them out. Do not plant another agave in that space for a year.

Above: If you think cacti are just about spines, visit them in spring, when they bloom with big, bold flowers. Top right: Wildflowers and cacti make the Ottensen Entry Garden a colorful place. Bottom right: Organ pipe cactus, teddy bear cholla, prickly pears and pink muhly grass are backlit by the desert sunset.

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Grand Rapids’ Grand Garden Get a new outlook on both artwork and horticulture at this unique museum

by Steve LaWarre and Andrea Wolschleger photographs by William J. Hebert

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nyone operating under the impression that art is stuffy and gardens are boring needs to visit the Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park in Grand Rapids, Mich. This 132-acre destination proves just the opposite. Here, sculpture and horticulture are presented in combination, in ways that make both subjects approachable and easy to appreciate. Tulips, grape hyacinth and daffodils welcome spring at the Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, which includes Michigan’s largest conservatory.

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One of the world’s most significant botanic and sculpture experiences, Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park serves more than 550,000 visitors annually. In the internationally-acclaimed Sculpture Park, dozens of works by renowned sculptors (including Auguste Rodin, Edgar Degas, Roy Lichtenstein, Louise Bourgeois and others) are set amid a variety of natural landscapes. Each is placed such that visitors “discover” it from various distances and vantage points. Indoor galleries host changing sculpture exhibitions with recent exhibitions by Picasso, Degas, di Suvero, Borofsky, Calder and Dine. Meijer Gardens is also home to 10 distinct gardens. (Another, the Japanese Garden, is slated to open in 2015.) These gardens range from manicured to natural, ornamental to edible. The 132-acre grounds feature Michigan’s largest tropical conservatory; one of the largest children’s gardens in the country; arid and Victorian gardens with bronze sculptures by Degas and Rodin; a carnivorous plant house; outdoor gardens; and a 1,900-seat outdoor amphitheater, featuring an eclectic mix of world-renowned musicians every summer. Meijer Gardens ranks within the top 100 mostvisited art museums in the world. Put this unique destination on your must-visit list, and experience art, gardens and nature in a truly eye-opening way.

GARDEN HIGHLIGHTS

It’s recommended that visitors allow themselves four to eight hours to enjoy all that Meijer Gardens has to offer. The gardens feature plants appropriate for Michigan, as well as exotic plants from the world over. Here are just a few highlights: THE ENGLISH PERENNIAL GARDEN, designed by Penelope Hobhouse, combines the traditional English border with many native North American plants. THE WOODLAND SHADE GARDEN peaks in spring, with daffodils, wildflowers and shrubs coming into bloom. This area shows visitors great choices for shaded gardens with clay soil. THE TROPICAL CONSERVATORY is the largest in Michigan, standing over five stories high. Waterfalls, misty streambeds and a myriad of warm-climate plants transport visitors to another world. Thousands of butterflies fly freely here each March and April. THE CHILDREN’S GARDEN offers hands-on activities for the little guests. They are encouraged to touch, dig, pretend and play.

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FAVORITE PLANTS FOR SPRING

Steve LaWarre, director of horticulture at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, recommends these plants to make the spring garden a work of art: ‘ARNOLD PROMISE’ HYBRID WITCHHAZEL (Hamamelis ×intermedia ‘Arnold Promise’; top left) is a large, architecturally branched shrub with fragrant, clear yellow, spider-like flowers in late winter. Typically flowering from mid-February through the beginning of March, it also has excellent bright fall color. USDA Zones 5–8. LENTEN ROSE (Helleborus orientalis or H. ×hybridus; top right), a shade-loving perennial, has evergreen foliage and typically bloom for us from March to April in shades of white, pink, rose and purple. They enjoy moist, welldrained soil that is high in organic matter. Zones 4–9. ‘MT AIRY’ FOTHERGILLA, OR BOTTLEBRUSH BUSH (Fothergilla בMount Airy’; center) has fragrant white flowers that resemble small bottle brushes. The flowers are effective from late April to early May. Fothergilla has dark green foliage and great fall color, as well. Zones 5–8. TAZETTA DAFFODILS (Narcissus tazetta cvs.; bottom left) are a group of spring bulbs with numerous flowers per stem, each offering a musky-sweet fragrance. Many of them are tried-and-true heirloom varieties; some favorites include ‘Geranium’ (shown), a 1930 heirloom; and ‘Scarlet Gem’, a 1910 heirloom with bright saffron petals and a redorange cup. Zones 4–8. ‘JACK FROST’ SIBERIAN BUGLOSS (Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’; bottom right) is an interesting perennial groundcover that blooms in early May, with airy blue flowers held above eye-catching frosted foliage. It prefers moist soils in partial shade. Zones 3–8.

Waterfalls cascade into a pool like a fluid work of art.

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COMING UP AT MEIJER GARDENS BUTTERFLIES ARE BLOOMING March 1– April 30, 2013 “Butterflies Are Blooming” is Meijer Gardens’ most popular annual exhibition and the largest temporary tropical butterfly exhibit in the nation. This March 1 through April 30, visitors can escape the Michigan winter and mingle with more than 6,000 tropical butterflies flying free in the 15,000-square-foot Lena Meijer Tropical Conservatory. The exhibition boasts more than 40 different butterfly species from Asia, Africa and Central America. Each week hundreds of chrysalises arrive at Meijer Gardens to be painstakingly sorted, inspected, labeled and pinned in our sealed Butterfly Bungalow. The chrysalises are then placed in a special emergence area of the Bungalow, where visitors can witness, through a window, their magical transformation into butterflies. Learn about this and other events in Meijer Gardens’ Events Calendar.

Top: A tropical swallowtail butterfly displays its colorful wings during the annual butterfly exhibit. Left: A bold color combination in the Perennial Garden. Bottom: The fivestory conservatory transports guests to tropical lands.

FREDERIK MEIJER GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK 1000 East Beltline NE Grand Rapids MI 49525 616-957-1580 meijergardens.org IN THE AREA Here are just a few other attractions in the Grand Rapids, Mich., area. Click to visit their websites: John Ball Zoological Garden Kent County Millennium Park Heritage Hill Historic District Hungry Village Tours Fruit Ridge Farm Markets Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum Grand Rapids Public Museum

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TAKE-HOME ADVICE: 5 SIMPLE STEPS

“Often times, we as gardeners, struggle with the simplest things,” says Steve LaWarre, director of horticulture at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park. “I’ve developed five rules to make you a better gardener.” They are: 1. USE WHAT YOU HAVE. We may love that full-sun perennial, but if we garden in the shade, we should look for plants that do well there. You can bend some rules, but finding the right plants for the right space is not guesswork. Do your research. 2. KEEP A JOURNAL. Record things like where a plant came from, dates that you plant, divide and harvest. Write down the problems you run into and the solutions you find. You’ll be surprised how handy this becomes year after year. Many times, problems can be avoided or success can be achieved by reading over what has been done in the past. 3. CULTIVATE FRIENDS. One of the most rewarding parts of gardening is the social aspect. Share your plants. Perennials love to be divided; this recharges and invigorates the plants. Do you have a neighbor that always raves about a plant in your yard? Share a piece. Get involved in your local gardening club. Most of my favorite plants have come to me as starts from family, friends and colleagues. I enjoy returning the favor.

4. MULCH. Top-dressing with good mulch improves gardens. It’s scientific fact. Mulched soils stay cooler in the summer and mulch helps regulate swings in moisture. Mulch insulates plants in the winter and regulates soil temperatures better then un-mulched ground. I like to use a composted hardwood bark. As mulch breaks down, nutrients become available to your plants and the microbiology of the soil improves. 5. SPEND TIME IN YOUR GARDEN. Enjoy the space you’ve created. When we spend time in the garden with our hands in the soil and our knees on the ground, something special happens. We connect with our surroundings in a way that can’t happen from the porch or through a window. This familiar adage is true: The best fertilizer is the shadow of the gardener.

Top to bottom: Goldfinch; bleeding hearts; hyacinths.

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A blooming native azalea marks the stone steps leading through the Woodland Garden at Garden in the Woods.

Native Haunts Take a walk in the Woods to discover a treasure trove of indigenous plants and wildflowers by Kristin DeSouza, Dan Jaffe, Mate McCullin, Mark Richardson and Rick Stockwood

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photographs courtesy of the New England Wild Flower Society visit to a botanical garden can be like a miniature trip around the world. Often these institutions celebrate diverse flora by crafting distinct gardens within their grounds, each representing a different region of the Earth or a certain style of gardening and the plants inherent to it. While this sort of setup can be a fantastic take for visitors, the Garden in the Woods has employed a different approach to plant curation, making it a fabulous and unique destination.

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A property of the century-old New England Wild Flower Society, Garden in the Woods, in Framingham, Mass., is devoted to native plants. It is the largest landscaped collection of wildflowers in the Northeast. The garden showcases the diversity of the region’s native plants, displaying them in a wide variety of habitats, from wet to dry and shaded to sunny, with annuals, perennials, bulbs, trees and shrubs all represented. Although the garden is expertly designed and maintained, it preserves a “natural” aura; following the winding, wooded trails feels much like taking a nature walk, though at the same time you’re observing beautiful and distinct gardens. Whether your aim is to create your own beautiful garden out of native plants or you just want to appreciate the beauty of the Northeast’s flora, Garden in the Woods won’t disappoint.

GARDEN HIGHLIGHTS

Here are just a few highlights of this unique place:

Top: White tiarella and purple phlox are just a couple of the native plants that bloom in spring at Garden in the Woods. Bottom: Pollinators—and human visitors—can find flowers here throughout the growing season.

THE GARDEN SHOP—In addition to books, garden tools and other gift-shop items, you’ll find beautiful native plants for sale, all propagated by the New England Wild Flower Society. NEW ENGLAND RARE PLANT GARDEN—This area shows New England native plants that are rare or endangered, providing a lesson on the importance of conservation. RAIN GARDEN—Here native shrubs and perennials filter stormwater runoff before it reaches the groundwater.

GARDEN IN THE WOODS 180 Hemenway Rd. North Framingham MA 508-877-7630 newfs.org

HABITAT DISPLAYS—Learn about native plants and their preferred habitats. Match the habitat to your own garden’s conditions and get new ideas for what to plant at home.

IN THE AREA Here are just a few other attractions in the Framingham, Mass., area. Click to visit their websites:

FAMILY ACTIVITY AREA—The newest addition to the garden, this section offers children unique chances to experience plants and learn about nature.

WOODLAND GARDEN—This area is especially beautiful in spring, when ephemeral shade lovers bloom.

Tower Hill Botanic Garden Boston’s Freedom Trail Louisa May Alcott’s Orchard House Belkin Family Lookout Farm Fruitlands Museum Assabet River National Wildlife Refuge deCordova Sculpture Park & Museum

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Top: The Idea Garden has included try-this-at-home exhibits such as a green roof on a shed. Right: Interpretive signs guide guests through each section of the garden.

TAKE-HOME ADVICE: MULCH MATTERS When the snow melts and the snowdrops start to wake up, it’s time to mulch your gardens for spring. Here at Garden in the Woods, we recycle our leaves to create our own free mulch that retains soil moisture, boosts soil organic matter and protects tender plants from harsh winter temperatures. With 15 acres of gardens to manage, we use a large leaf shredder to vacuum up leaves and shred them into a fine organic medium. You can do the same thing at home. Rather than raking and disposing of your leaves, shred them with your lawnmower and stockpile them for later use. Many municipalities offer shredded leaves to residents free of charge; however, because the material is derived from residential yard waste, it often contains pesticide residue and animal wastes. It’s always a better idea to recycle your own leaves or purchase leaf mulch from a reputable local business to ensure that you don’t introduce residual chemicals that may harm your garden plants. Whether you create your own leaf mulch or buy it, it’s important to watch spring temperatures and re-cover any garden beds where mulch may have diminished over the winter. Apply your leaf mulch at about three- to five-inch depths to allow tender spring plants to emerge and ensure that plenty of oxygen reaches your garden soil. Conventional bark mulch, which is often made from shredded pallets and other building materials, can reduce oxygen levels in soil and act as a physical barrier to emerging perennial plants.

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COMING UP AT GARDEN IN THE WOODS NATIONAL PUBLIC GARDENS DAY May 10, 2013 Join the New England Wild Flower Society at Garden in the Woods on May 10 for National Public Gardens Day. An annual celebration of the nation’s public gardens, National Public Garden Day raises awareness of the important role botanical gardens and arboreta play in promoting environmental stewardship, plant and water conservation, green spaces and education in communities nationwide. What better way to celebrate than visiting Garden in the Woods for the unveiling of the all-new Family Activity Area? Explore the living fiddlehead maze, build a critter cottage in the white pine grove or just roll around in the carex lawn. Your family will surely enjoy spending the day together interacting with nature and marvelling at the beauty of our naturalistic gardens.

GARDENERS ON THE GO!


FAVORITE PLANTS FOR SPRING

The horticulture staff at Garden in the Woods recommends these plants to celebrate spring with native beauty: SERVICEBERRY (Amelanchier canadensis; top left), a great New England native, matures into a multi-stemmed, vase-shaped shrub or small tree. White flowers in the spring are followed by red fruit that turns purple when ripe. Vibrant red fall foliage makes this one of the many great alternatives to the invasive burning bush (Euonymus alata). If you can get to the ripe fruits before the birds, don’t miss the opportunity—they are some of the besttasting native fruits out there. USDA Zones 4–8. JACK-IN-THE-PULPIT (Arisaema triphyllum; bottom left), one of the most unique New England–native woodland plants, features a spathe (colorful hood) and spadix (central structure enveloped by the spathe) in spring. In addition to this unusual flowering structure, it also has an amazing ability to switch gender. Young plants tend to produce male flowers for a few years as they build up the necessary resources to support bright red fruits each fall. Then they produce female flowers. Zones 4–9. YELLOW FAWN LILY (Erythronium americanum ssp. americanum; center) is hard not to love. A delicate yet sturdy little spring ephemeral, this New England native grows in patches of both single-leaved sterile plants and double-leaved flowering plants. The sterile plants form a thick base of fabulous spotted leaves, while the flowering plants provide a sporadic carpet of flowers above. Trout lilies require high light conditions in the early season and are thus best planted under deciduous trees. Zones 3–8. TWINLEAF (Jeffersonia diphylla; bottom right), with its large twin leaves and unique fruits, is a striking native New England woodlander. The leaves emerge at the same time as its white flowers in early spring, and although the flowers usually last only a day or two, they are followed by a very unusual fruit. Ants are quick to find and disperse the seeds, helping twinleaf colonize an area in your garden rather quickly. Zones 5–7. LOWBUSH BLUEBERRY (Vaccinium angustifolium; top right) may be known for its tasty berries, but many people overlook its ornamental characteristics and its adaptability. Attractive spring flowers, vibrant fall foliage and the ability to grow under a variety of cultural conditions make lowbush blueberry an appealing addition to any woodland garden. Grow it on a rocky slope in full sun or under the shade of a pine canopy—you’ll find it thrives just about anywhere. Zones 2–7.

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Gardening Made Easy! Bluestone’s Pre-Planned Garden Designs So many beautiful plants – we make it easy for you to choose what to plant where. We have put together an assortment of Pre-Planned Gardens, Container Combos, Pleasing Combinations and Trio Collections to make your gardening easier. Which design is right for you?

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Pre-Planned Gardens

Trio Collections

Our gardens are designed to bloom throughout the entire season with a variety of vibrant colors. All of these perennials are easy to grow, low maintenance varieties that are sure to please. Learn More »

A selection of three plants chosen to blend together beautifully in your garden. Can be planted as a stand-alone grouping or incorporated into an established garden bed. Learn More »

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Container Combos

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These sets of plants were designed for their pleasing compatibility and display in containers. Learn More »

Perfect for smaller spaces and new gardeners, these sets of six plants provide an easy way to start a new garden or add to an established bed. Learn More »

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TIME-SAVING TIPS •

When Less Is More 5 tips to cut down on maintenance while improving your garden’s look by Meghan Shinn

A low-maintenance garden doesn’t have to equal a boring yard. You can take steps to reduce the amount of work you put into your garden while at the same time actually making it more healthy and gorgeous. Try these tips this spring to prove that “better” doesn’t always have to be “harder.”

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Use a mulch-and-compost blend. These mixes are 50 percent bark mulch and 50 percent compost. They conserve moisture and inhibit weeds just like straight bark mulch, but they also feed the soil.


Plant in drifts. Devote sections of the garden to one kind of perennial that has proven itself in your area. You can tend to that area in a snap, because all the plants need the same care.

Choose perennial plants and shrubs with multiple seasons of interest. This simple step saves you from having to plant annuals for interest each season and keep up with their often intense need for water and fertilizing.

Keep some lawn. For a variety of reasons, you may be tempted to rip up lawn areas and replace them with gardens. Bear in mind that garden beds can be higher maintenance than turf (depending on your region, and particularly if you aren’t after a “perfect” lawn). A grassy area can beautifully set off beds and borders, too.

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Edge your beds and install edging. In spring, before things really get growing, take some time to re-carve the lines around your beds and borders. Install sixinch-deep heavy-duty edging, if you haven’t yet. Your garden will look neater, and lawn grass (which spreads by its roots) won’t invade the beds.


CONTAINER GARDENING •

Right: A pot of upright elephant ears makes a dramatic marker for this entrance. Bottom: In fall, Hans Langeveld prepares to store elephant ears indoors for the winter.

Large and Loud

Elephant ears make a bold statement in big pots by Meghan Shinn We checked in with hans langeveld, co-owner

of the mail-order bulb specialist Longfield Gardens, for his expert advice on growing elephant ears (Colocasia and Alocasia spp.). These showstopping tropical plants will grow in shade, part shade or sun, and they’re happy in wet soil. They also take well to containers, which highlight their beautiful foliage, which can be vivid green, variegated (as in A. ‘Hilo Beauty’) or nearly black (as in C. ‘Black Magic’). Hans’s own favorite is the green A. ‘Upright’, which grows up to eight feet tall, stays green year-round and has large, shiny leaves that stand almost straight up and down.

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What’s the difference between Colocasia and Alocasia? Hans: Alocasia is also referred to as “upright elephant ear” because the leaves grow almost vertically. This type of elephant ear will stay green all winter if kept at room temperature. Its leaves are shiny and dark green and can grow up to 36 inches wide! Colocasia has a one-season growth cycle; they will die down when the days shorten in the fall, and go into a dormant stage. The leaves are not as large as the upright elephant ears, and they have a grayish color. To grow these in containers, what size pot should you use? Is it better to use one material over another? Hans: I prefer fiberglass or plastic over clay, as clay pots dry out much faster. In general, the elephant ear will adapt to its environment; it will grow taller and larger leaves if it’s planted in a larger container. For the colocasia you can use containers with a diameter of 18 to 24 inches (height 16 to 20 inches)—nice size containers so they can freely develop. The alocasia can be planted in even larger containers, with diameters up to 36 inches (height up to 40 inches). That way you can keep the alocasia in there for several years without having to transplant it. An alocasia planted in a small planter will not produce as large leaves, compared to ones planted in a larger container. Last to consider is the size of the bulb. The larger the bulb, the larger the container in which it should be planted.

GARDENERS ON THE GO!


Far left: Warmtone caladium make great companions for elephant ears, visually and culturally. Left: Alocasia ‘Hilo Beauty’ has cream markings.

Do they need a special growing mix? What are some other growing tips for these in containers? Hans: Standard potting soil works fine. At home, I mix a lot of compost through the soil so it has enough organic material to keep the leaves dark green through the summer. Extra fertilizer once every three to four weeks will also help them grow faster and produce healthy leaves. If you plant them in containers, make sure they receive enough water—at least once a day, as they are real “drinkers.”

Do you have any tips for people in cold climates for overwintering these plants? Hans: Colocasia should be dug before the first frost hits in the fall and stored inside in a box or a paper bag with some dry peat or newspapers. Temperature during the winter storage should be around 65–70˚F, so inside the home is ideal. Before digging, cut the leaves back to about two inches above the ground and wait another day to dig up the bulbs. Then cut back all leaves just above the bulb before storing them. For the alocasia there are two options: either dig the bulbs like the colocasia or move the entire container inside, where it will continue to grow during the winter. If planted in the ground, the plant can be dug and transplanted into a container to move inside.

Watering Tools & Gardening Accessories

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COMMUNITY GARDEN SPOTLIGHT •

TULSA,

Okla.

Tulsa students learn gardening and much more through the Global Gardens program.

Peace, Science and Gardening

How a dream to inspire change turned into a reality by Maria Woodie

With a dream of enriching the lives of children from

low-income communities through peace and science education, Heather Oakley founded the organization Global Gardens in 2007. A science teacher with masters degrees in Urban Science Education and International Development/Peace Education, Heather designed this learning program to foster cooperation, goal-setting and a sense of accomplishment and ownership—while teaching kids to garden. Based in Tulsa, Okla., the non-profit Global Gardens began at Eugene Field Elementary School, with the full support of the administration and staff and the great excitement of the students. Now, six years later, the

program has grown to include Rosa Parks Elementary School, two on-site community garden projects and a middle-school program. Serving over 1,300 children, Global Gardens offers in-school, after-school and summer programs that teach students to plan, grow and harvest their own personal gardens. Moreover, the program helps the kids recognize their own potential, and it highlights the beauty of different cultures, with their crops as a starting point of conversation. During the school year, Global Gardens teachers have weekly meetings with each class, discussing their gardens, how to grow food and the science behind it. “Each classroom decides a theme for their garden, which is decided collectively by the class,” says Ayschia Saiymeh, Community Outreach Director & Educator. “Themes have ranged from taco gardens, to folk-tale gardens, to the International Peace Garden and more!”

The theme gardens allow the students to decide what they want to grow, teaching them responsibility while instilling horticultural knowledge. The learning doesn’t stop at botany and horticulture, though. The children also take part in art, literacy and building projects; they cook and prepare meals; and they participate in farmers’ markets, fundraisers and community events. “Our gardens are really special,” says Saiymeh, who encourages anyone with gardening space to open a bit of it up to a child. “They aren’t manicured and perfect, but they are transforming the lives of those that we work with, and my own. The garden is so much more than a place for science enrichment or food growth. Global Gardens is really about opening people up to possibility and potential.” You can learn more about Global Gardens in the full interview with Ayschia Saiymeh at hortmag.com, and visit their website, global-gardens.org.


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SMALL SPACES •

Interest for All Seasons How to design your garden so that it appeals at all times of year by Kathy A. Diemer We all strive for gardens that look good no matter the season. And that is indeed a chal-

lenge. When I first started my gardens, I went to the nursery and loaded up on every perennial that looked good at the time. I soon realized my mistake when, by midsummer, there was absolutely nothing going on. Once winter arrived and snow covered the ground, you couldn’t tell where the lawn ended and the garden began. That’s when shrubs came into my life, solving the seasonal-interest conundrum as well as providing a little less work overall.

Form, height and spread are important considerations when deciding on shrubs and their placement. For structural element in the pictured bed near my driveway, I selected a dwarf blue spruce and planted beneath it a weeping larch, low-growing sedums and groundcover junipers. In close proximity is a crimson redtwig dogwood, a dwarf white pine and an upright gold-edged juniper, which all look marvelous during winter months. The palette changes in spring when my dwarf lilac’s fragrant violet blooms pair up beautifully with the frosty blue needles of the

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dwarf spruce. In summer, the gold-edged spruce is flanked by the creamy-white variegated leaves of the twig dogwood. Later, a purple smoke bush reflects the sun’s rays with leaves in dazzling shades of crimson reds and fiery orange. Creating seasonal interest is an ongoing process as our plantings mature and we evolve as gardeners. Designing and implementing your ideas is both challenging and rewarding. You may have successes and disappointments, but over the course of time the outcome will be well worth the effort.


Below: The author’s driveway garden in winter, when gold-edged juniper, blue spruce and white pine offer colorful vertical interest. Weeping larch and low juniper spill over the wall. Opposite page, bottom: The same garden in spring, from a different angle.

KATHY’S DESIGN TIPS Seek out perennials that bloom longer (like rudbeckia) and later (like anemone). Choose an overall theme for your planting. For example, do you want a lot of gold and chartreuse foliage in a particular bed? Edit your selections so that the harmonizing colors are sprinkled throughout, then add perennials with contrasting colors like rich burgundy, bold pink or bright yellow. When choosing shrubs, evergreens and dwarf trees, carefully consider each plant’s attributes and how they will impact your overall theme during each season. Choose architecturally interesting deciduous shrubs and texturally appealing evergreens that will complement each other while making a statement during the dormant months.

Assure productive growth with your best greenhouse tool

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GARDEN TRAVEL TIPS•

Let’s Celebrate Public Gardens It’s a nationwide party on May 10 by Meghan Shinn photography courtesy of Rain Bird Here at Gardeners On the Go! (and Horticulture maga-

zine) we’re all about public gardens. Besides just being beautiful, inspiring destinations, they do such great work and have so much to offer visitors. We try to highlight those facts in our features on public gardens, which always include plant recommendations from the garden staff and their favorite tips to pass along to home gardeners. We often run features on botanical gardens in print issues of Horticulture, and each year we devote the January/February issue to these invaluable institutions. You can imagine that we’re excited to celebrate the fifth annual National Public Gardens Day, which takes place May 10 this year. (It’s always the Friday before Mother’s Day.) Devised by the American Public Garden Association and the good people at Rain Bird, this nationwide event celebrates all that public gardens have to offer, and raises awareness of them as destinations and resources. Many public gardens—such as botanical gardens, arboreta, historical landscapes, zoos, farm gardens and others— will mark the day with special events and offers to welcome visitors old and new. For example, the Idaho Botanical Garden (and many others) is offering free admission on May 10. The Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden is presenting ideas for making your garden a wildlife habitat (for butterflies and such—not tigers and elephants) and even giving away plants! So plan a trip to your favorite public garden—or a space you haven’t yet visited—this May 10, or any time Mother’s Day weekend. Check the garden’s website to see what they have planned, or look for special events near you by visiting nationalpublicgardensday.org/participate/participate -visitors/, where there is an interactive map. The website also offers more information on National Public Gardens Day, and public gardens in general. You can also connect through Facebook, at facebook.com/NationalPublicGardensDay; and on Twitter—twitter.com/NPGD.

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PLANT PROFILES •

The Long Haul More than just spring bloom ‘MAGIC SUMMER’ HEBE (Hebe ‘Magic Summer’) blooms in late spring, but its foliage is perhaps its best feature. This small evergreen shrub’s leaves are red-purple in winter and spring, and gray and white in summer and fall. Full to part sun. Zones 8–10.

photo credit: Kleft Seeds photo credit: Proven Winners

p h o t o c re d i t : Wa l t e r s G a rd e n s photo credit: Proven Winners

‘BLACK SCALLOP’ BUGLEWEED (Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’) makes a good perennial groundcover or edging. Resistant to mildew and less agrressive than other varieties, it has blue spring flowers and beautiful near-black leaves. Sun or shade. Zones 4–10.

‘BALLERINA LILAC’ SEA THRIFT (Armeria pseudarmeria ‘Ballerina Lilac’) blooms heavily from midto late spring, then reblooms throughout the summer, especially if you deadhead it. Evergreen perennial. Full sun to part shade. Zones 5–9.

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CHARDONNAY PEARLS DEUTZIA (Deutzia gracilis ‘Duncan’) has attractive round buds that open into starry white flowers in spring. When it’s done blooming, this small shrub continues to shine with its beautiful yellow-green foliage. Full to part sun. Zones 5–8.

GARDENERS ON THE GO!


KITCHEN GARDENING •

Radishes Fast-growing radishes add a little spice to any edible garden by Maria Woodie Radishes (raphanus sativus) are fast-growing, cool-weather vegetables that will bring a

crisp, sweet, slightly spicy taste to your recipes, with a little burst of color to boot. Whether used as a garnish, sliced in a salad or offered as an option on a vegetable tray, radishes have been filling our bellies with nutritious deliciousness for thousands of years. Radishes come in a variety of eye-catching colors and sizes, and all are relatively easy to grow. Seed of spring radishes can be sown as soon as the ground is workable (four to six weeks before the last frost) and can continue to be planted until mid-spring. Winter varieties, like Daikon, should be planted midsummer to early fall, so that they are harvested before the first freeze. Plant the seeds in loose, rich, well-drained soil, half an inch deep. After the seedlings come up, thin spring varieties to one to two inches apart. Thin winter types three to six inches apart. Water regularly and apply mulch to help control weeds. You can harvest spring varieties when they are young, around the size of a marble—in

roughly 20 to 40 days. Winter radishes take longer to mature and should be harvested at a much larger size—after about 50 to 75 days. But be careful not to wait too long to harvest, or

else your radishes can become woody and hot. Noting beats a fresh, homegrown radish. Let these tasty little vegetables liven up your recipes this year.

Classic Radish Sandwich

SHOPPING LIST • RADISHES

INGREDIENTS

Handful of fresh radishes 2 slices pumpernickel or rye bread Unsalted butter Coarse salt or sea salt

• DARK BREAD, SUCH AS PUMPERNICKEL OR RYE

DIRECTIONS

• UNSALTED BUTTER

Wash and trim the radishes, then soak them in cold water for an hour. Dry them and slice them into thin rounds. Spread each piece of bread with butter and lightly salt it. Cover one piece with radish slices; close the sandwich. Enjoy.

• SEA SALT

VA R I AT I O N S

Replace the salt with a scattering of chopped tarragon. Toast the bread before assembling the sandwich. Omit one piece of bread for an open-faced sandwich. Substitute light or fat-free cream cheese for the butter, and sprinkle with chopped chives or green onions.

TIP: Radishes are a source of folic acid, potassium, vitamin B6, riboflavin, magnesium, copper and calcium. Their leaves are edible, too.

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THE EMPORIUM •

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Spring in the world! And all things are made new! —RICHARD HOVEY, AMERICAN POET (1864–1900)



next issue Look for our summer issue coming in June, with visits to more botanical gardens, tips for summer containers, plants that can take hot, dry weather and much more. In the meantime, join us on social media:

facebook.com/ HorticultureMagazine

pinterest.com/hortmag/

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