FA L L 2 0 1 4
GREAT
GARDENS Ideas for Smart Gardeners WITH
MAGAZINE
Force Spring Bulbs into Winter Bloom Easy Fall Tricks for Better Soil The Rundown on Fall Garden Cleanup Winter Wreaths With Personality
7 Autumn
Au Revoir
13
Tenacious Tulips
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03 05 24 26 29 31 32 34 36 38
EDITOR’S NOTE Details, Details
OUR FAVORITE THINGS Great Gardening Gear
TIME-SAVING TIPS Fall: On the Ground
CONTAINER GARDENING Forcing the Issue
GARDEN ART Freeze Frame
PLANT PROFILES Early Bulbs
SMALL SPACES Winning Wreaths
KIDS GARDEN Waterproof Plants
KITCHEN GARDENING Garlic
QUOTE OF THE SEASON Wallace Stevens
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Fall gives me mixed emotions in terms of the garden in each year. On one hand I’m sad to see the summer’s flowers and foliage go; on the other hand I’m a little relieved to put the garden to bed and focus on indoor pursuits for a while. Happily, there’s next year’s garden to look forward to, plus the fun of planning it at the fireside all winter.
This issue of Great Gardens includes a few lastminute outdoor garden tasks as well as some projects and ideas for gardening indoors in the coming winter. Use the rest of fall to improve your soil, clean up the garden and plant garlic and spring-flowering bulbs. Reserve a few of those bulbs for indoor forcing, though, and gear up for growing wet-tolerant houseplants with the kids, choosing your perfect winter wreath and making frozen garden decorations. You’ll find all of the above and more in these pages. Enjoy!
— Meghan Shinn :: E D I T O R
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EDITORIAL edit@hortmag.com Community Leader Patty Dunning Editor Meghan Shinn CONTENT CONTRIBUTORS Meghan Shinn, Kelsea Daulton DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY Art Director Bethany Rainbolt Managing Photographer Ric Deliantoni Photographer Al Parrish ADVERTISING advertising@hortmag.com VP, Sales Dave Davel Advertising Sales Michelle Kraemer, 888-457-2873 x13245 Advertising Sales Coordinator Connie Kostrzewa F+W MEDIA INC. Chairman & CEO David Nussbaum CFO James Ogle President David Blansfield SVP, Operations Phil Graham Chief Digital Officer, eMedia Chad Phelps Director, IT Jim Kuster Director of Finance Trent Miller Events Director Cory Smith Audience Development Paul Rolnick
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Autumn
Au Revoir A quick and dirty guide to fall garden cleanup
I
by Meghan Shinn
n most of the United States, late fall spells an end to outdoor gardening. It’s time to clean up the garden before looking ahead to next year’s plans. Here’s a rundown of common fall garden tasks.
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1. TREE LEAVES
• Gone are the days when it was believed every last fallen leaf should be sucked from the landscape and carted away at the season’s end. Deciduous leaves are a valuable material that should remain in the garden whenever feasible. • Small or narrow leaves can be left to lie where they fall in garden beds, and raked into beds from lawn areas. • Larger tree leaves can be raked evenly over lawn areas and run over several times with a mulching lawn mower. This will shred them into tiny pieces that will quickly decompose and feed the lawn’s soil with valuable nitrogen. • Shredded leaves can also be raked back into garden beds to serve as mulch, or added to a compost pile. • Leaves can be piled or bagged and left to turn into leaf mold, which can later be spread in the garden. More on leaf mold.
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2. VEGETABLE & FRUIT GARDENS
• Edible gardens that will lie fallow over the winter should be cleaned of all plant debris and gardening aids. • Pull up spent plants that were healthy throughout the growing season, as well as any weeds, and add them to the compost pile. • Do not add weeds with seed heads or diseased plants to your compost, but instead seal them in garbage bags and send them off with household trash. • Pick up stakes, row labels and other non-permanent garden fixtures. Store them for next year or dispose of them if they are no longer usable. • With the soil now bare, apply any organic soil amendments or mulch so that they can settle over the winter.
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GREAT GARDENS
3. ORNAMENTAL BEDS
• Beds and borders of ornamental plants can be cleaned up in the fall or left standing until spring. The degree of cleanup depends on personal preference—some gardeners prefer to leave plants standing as winter interest, wildlife cover or for other reasons, while some gardeners feel they have more time for cleanup in the fall rather than early spring. • Annual plants can be pulled and added to the compost pile, unless they were diseased, in which case they should be put in the trash. • Perennials can be cut back any time after the first hard frost. Trimmings can be composted or trashed, depending on the plant’s health. If you break healthy spent perennials into small pieces you can simply compost them in place—just spread them in the garden as you do with fallen leaves. • You may wish to leave perennials standing if they add winter interest through their foliage or seed heads; their seeds will attract winter birds; or they are marginally hardy to your zone. (Their presence may offer some protection to their roots.) • Wait to prune shrubs until they’re in winter dormancy, or after they’ve bloomed in spring.
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4. TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES • • • • •
Remove any pots, furniture and statues or other decorations that may be damaged by winter weather. Store them in an enclosed space. Gather stakes from the garden and store them with other tools. Examine all tools to see what may need maintenance or replacing before spring. Clean and dry all tools and plan to sharpen any that need it over the winter. Drain hoses and empty watering cans before storing them. Shut the valve that runs water to outside spigots in regions with freezing winters. Put things away in an organized manner so you can hit the ground running in spring. •
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tulips
tenacious Turn to the wild types for their rugged health and perennial nature by Sally Ferguson photographs courtesy of Colorblends.com
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GREAT GARDENS
D
oes your garden have a spot of rocky or sandy poor soil where plants tend to perish? Try planting “wild,” or species, tulips there this fall, for a beautiful flowering display next spring—and many springs to come. “Wild tulips are generally much smaller and shorter than Dutch hybrid tulips,” says Christian Curless, horticulturist for the U.S. flower-bulb company Colorblends. “They actually respond well to neglect, thriving in sites where other flowers might fail. They’re particularly appealing in scrappy natural-looking areas where their open-faced spring flowers are a fun surprise.” For success with species tulips, bear in mind their natural origins: the forbidding mountains and barren steppes of Central Asia, the Mideast and China. (For the record: the wild tulips sold today by top-tier companies like Colorblends aren’t collected from the wild, but instead propagated on tulip farms.) The right garden spot, says Curless, is one with full sun, good drainage, no foraging animals and no sprinklers or soaker hoses over the summer. They’re suited to USDA Zones 3–7. For best effect, plant them in scattered clusters in rock gardens, along fences or walks, even in gravel patios, he suggests. Wild tulips will partner well with low-growing plants with similar needs, such as short varieties of stonecrop (Sedum), which also thrive in poor soil and hot, dry locations. Plant them in fall, once night temperatures remain between 40 and 45˚F or below and before the ground freezes solid, burying them four inches deep. After they bloom in spring, allow their leaves to whither away naturally; this recharges the bulb. Turn the page for selections.
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FAVORITE WILD TULIPS FOR THE GARDEN 1. TULIPA BAKERI ‘LILAC WONDER’: Its lilac-pink flowers with deep yellow centers bob daintily in soft spring breezes, weathering hard rains and wind with equal aplomb.
2. TULIPA BATALINI ‘BRIGHT GEM’: The flower is a warm butterscotch that gains glints of bronze over time. Late to come up in spring, this short, sturdy tulip shines in more barren settings.
3. TULIPA CLUSIANA ‘TUBERGEN’S GEM’: The yellow flower petals are stroked with crimson on the outside. When warmed by the sun, the flowers open into bright golden stars.
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4. TULIPA KOLPAKOWSKIANA: Red brushes the outside of its lemon-yellow flowers. Given full sun and soil that drains well, this species tulip can come back to bloom for several years.
5. TULIPA TARDA: A multiflowering tulip with bright yellow star-shaped flowers edged in white, it’s reliably perennial in full sun in well-drained soil.
6. TULIPA TURKESTANICA: This golden-eyed wildflower is particularly appealing in mass plantings where its sweet fragrance can be enjoyed. •
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GREAT GARDENS
TIME-SAVING TIPS •
Fall: On the Ground Now is the time to attend to soil health by Meghan Shinn
WHETHER YOU’RE PLANNING to plant a new bed next spring or you’re just wanting to improve the
health of existing planting areas, fall is a great time to work on your soil. Natural soil amendments abound for the taking, and the weather is ripe for them to break down and work their magic on the earth. In this season, garden plants need little to no care and many of them are dying back to the ground, leaving you both time and space to attend to the soil. Soil health is key to plant health, so the brief effort that goes into the following steps will pay off big time.
Deciduous leaves that come down in the fall make an excellent lightweight mulch that will quickly break down and feed the soil. Shred large leaves before spreading them across the soil to a depth of two or three inches. Small leaves can be placed whole.
Compost, or a compost-andmulch blend, also makes a nutritious topdressing for garden soil. Scratch mature compost into the soil this fall, then replenish your compost pile with the season’s natural debris.
Grow a winter cover crop on the bare soil of vegetable or cutting gardens. Cover crops are coolseason annuals that feed the soil when they are mowed or tilled into the ground in early spring.
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GREAT GARDENS
If you’re planting a new bed next spring, prepare now by marking it off, observing its conditions (including soil type and drainage) and killing any existing plants and grass by winter smothering.
Get a soil test. Send a sample to your cooperative extension agency now so that you can be ready to act on its results later this season or first thing in spring. •
PLANT PROFILES •
Early Bulbs Next year’s first blooms SNOWDROPS (Galanthus nivalis) is one of the earliest bloomers, pushing up through snow cover to open its drooping, green-tipped white flowers. Sun to part shade. Zones 3–7.
PerennialResource.com PerennialResource.com
Ball Horticultural PerennialResource.com
SNOW CROCUS (Crocus chrysanthus) blooms before the more popular Dutch hybrid crocuses, with yellow-orange cups opening to the weak winter sun. Sun to part shade. Zones 3–8.
IRIS RETICULATA is a low-growing iris that offers its purple flowers in late winter. These last well in a vase and possess a sweet fragrance. Sun to part shade. Zones 5–9.
GLORY-OF-THE-SNOW (Chionodoxa forbesii) sends up clusters of starry blue flowers in late winter. It can naturalize in lawns and woodland gardens. Sun to part shade. Zones 3–8. •
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GREAT GARDENS
CONTAINER GARDENING
Forcing the Issue How to create an early indoor spring with potted bulbs by Meghan Shinn SPRING-BLOOMING BULBS are one of the most magical and anticipated treasures of the garden, appearing out of the bare ground to quickly offer color and signal winter’s end. Many of these same bulbs can brighten an indoor space months earlier if they are potted in fall and given the proper treatment. Here’s how to force spring bulbs into a winter bloom indoors.
1.
Bulbs that need a cold period
Some bulbs require a period of cold temperatures before they will bloom. These include tulips, hyacinth, grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), crocus, daffodils and most other spring-blooming bulbs. Of these, tulips and daffodils are the most challenging to force, so if you’re looking for a safe bet, opt for crocus, hyacinths and others.
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Select a wide, shallow pot in which to plant the bulbs, and get enough bulbs so that they’ll fill it when planted shoulder to shoulder. Ignore the recommended spacing for the bulbs; that applies to long-term plantings in the garden. Pots look best when crowded. Outdoor planting depth also does not apply to pots. The pot need be only deep enough to leave about two inches of root space beneath the bottom of the bulbs.
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Add enough pre-moistened potting mix so that the tops of the bulbs sit an inch or less below the pot’s rim when they are placed on the mix. Add all of the bulbs and cover them with more potting mix.
3.
Move the entire pot to a cold area where it can stay for the recommended chilling period for the type of bulbs you’re growing. This can be anywhere from 10 to 18 weeks (here’s a helpful guide). The temperature in your chilling area should run 35 to 45˚F, and it should be dark. This may be a cold garage or basement, an unheated but enclosed porch, a crawl space beneath the house or other cold but not freezing area. To simulate darkness in an area like an unheated porch or breezeway, just place a sheet of cardboard over the top of the pot. This will also allow you to stack multiple pots and save space. An extra refrigerator can also be used for storing potted bulbs.
4.
At the end of the chilling period, place the pot in bright but indirect light at room temperature. Water lightly if the soil is dry. Within weeks the bulbs will begin to sprout. Once they have a couple inches of growth, move them into direct light. When they begin to bloom, indirect light and cool room temperatures will prolong the display. Discard the bulbs after they bloom, as they are unlikely to perform well again.
Bulbs that don’t need a cold period
Certain other bulbs do not require chilling before they will bloom. These include some of the most popular bulbs for forcing: amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus. They’re popular because they’re so easy.
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GREAT GARDENS
1.
Paperwhites and amaryllis can be forced in soil. Amaryllis (right) should be buried only to their shoulders, while paperwhites can go a bit deeper.
2.
These bulbs will also grow and bloom if simply placed in a container of pebbles and water. Situate the bulbs so that the pebbles support them and their bottoms just barely touch the top of the water in which the pebbles sit. Roots will grow down into the water.
3.
Place them in a dark, cool (ideally, 50 to 58ËšF) spot for a couple of weeks, then move them into bright light and warmer temperatures, where they will continue to grow and bloom.
4.
Paperwhites generally bloom within four weeks of planting, while amaryllis can be slow to get going. Expect amaryllis to bloom eight to twelve weeks after planting. •
GARDEN ART •
Freeze Frame Make outdoor ornaments by freezing botanical elements in ice by Meghan Shinn
M AT E R I A L S Silicone baking pan or ice tray Small cookie sheet or other tray-like item Freshly cut flowers, leaves and/or berries
Heavy-duty twine Water
STEPS 1. Gently rinse the flowers (or other material) and pat it dry. Put the silicone pan on the cookie sheet and fill it halfway with water. (The sheet will make it easy to move the pan without disturbing the water and materials.) 2. Carefully float the flowers on the water. Cut a generous length of twine, fold it in half and float the fold on the water. The loose ends of the twine can rest on the tray. 3. Transfer everything to the freezer. Check back every few hours to see if the water has frozen. 4. Once it has, fill the pan the rest of the way with water, leaving a little space at the top. Return it to the freezer. 5. When it has completely frozen solid, pop the ice out of the pan. Tie the loose ends of the twine into a bow or knot and trim any excess length. Hang the ornament outside. •
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SMALL SPACES
Winning Wreaths Crown your door with personality by Meghan Shinn GARDENERS CAN RELY on standing pots, window boxes and hanging baskets to add personality to their homes’ entryways during the warm months, but in many regions late fall means an end to such selfexpression. Now winter and holiday decorations take over, chief among them the front-door wreath. Here are a few of our favorite looks for inspiration.
1.
Classic. Wreaths that incorporate lots of natural materials in mostly neutral colors communicate a love of nature. As long as they don’t dry out, such wreaths can look appropriate well past New Year’s.
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2.
Modern. Natural wreaths that mix in less common elements offer an updated look. This example adds striking bare twigs and white berries to a eucalyptus base. The bow can be removed for a wintery look after the holidays.
3.
Crafty. A simple twig frame provides the base for countless kinds of embellishments. Express yourself by attaching favorite ornaments or pinecones and berries from the garden. These are easy to switch up as spring approaches.
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GREAT GARDENS
Festive. Red and gold colors, a large circumference and an oversize bow make a clear marker of the Christmas season. While this wreath will look out of place soon after January 1, it’s a clear winner through the month of December. •
KIDS GARDENING
Waterproof Plants Kids love watering. Here are houseplants that can take a frequent drink by Meghan Shinn
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Above: Umbrella plant. Below: Air plant, which needs frequent misting or soaking of the leaves but no soil for its roots.
WHEN HOUSEPLANTS DIE, it’s usually because
of overwatering or underwatering. Drawing from some casual observations of my own children and those of my friends, I’ve decided that the younger the gardener, the more likely he or she is to kill a plant with kindness. I don’t know a child who can walk past a watering can without begging to fill it and use it. My girls—ages 5 and 2—especially love watching water roll down leaves, collect on the soil, soak in and ultimately reappear from the pot’s drainage holes. (All while I imagine the plant saying, “Glub, glub—enough!”) For most houseplants, it’s best to let the soil dry slightly to the touch before watering again, but there are a few kinds that enjoy perpetually moist conditions, and these are great choices for young, enthusiastic houseplant owners. These include ferns, palms, dumb cane (Dieffenbachia) and even the spider plant (Chlorphytum comosum), though all of these appreciate a winter rest period in which their soil is allowed to dry slightly between waterings. The best bet for perpetual watering-can wielders may be the umbrella plant (Cyperus involucratus or C. alternifolius), which has tall stems topped with grasslike leaves arranged something like an umbrella or a helicopter’s blades. This plant likes damp soil and bright light. It’s also easy to propagate by simply snipping off the “propellers” and sitting them in a dish of water until they sprout roots—a nice experiment for young indoor gardeners. Other options include moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) and even Christmas cactus, provided you keep them potted in a loose, chunky potting mix, such as one based on bark chips. These plants grow on the branches of trees in their native rain forests, glean-
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ing moisture as rain showers through them daily. They, too, prefer a winter rest after flowering, however. Air plants (Tillandsia) are another good match, provided the kids will trade the watering can for a spray bottle. Air plants have inefficient roots and need to be frequently misted so they can draw in moisture through their leaves. Certain kinds of bromeliads form a reservoir in the middle of their leaves, which should be kept full of water. Finally, certain tricks will help plants dry out quickly and therefore require frequent watering, regardless of their type. Use clay pots, which promote quick evaporation. Remember that small pots dry out much more quickly than large pots. Warm air also hastens drying, so set the pot near a heating vent. And if a plant seems too swamped, remove it from the pot and wrap the root ball in newspaper until the excess water has been drawn out, changing the paper as it becomes saturated. •
GREAT GARDENS
KITCHEN GARDENING •
Garlic
Garlic is fairly easy to grow, and a crop can be started in late fall by Maria Woodie T H E R E A R E T WO m a i n groups of garlic: softneck and hardneck. The kind offered at most grocery stores is softneck. It’s milder in flavor, produces more cloves and stores longer than hardneck garlic. However, most chefs prefer hardneck, because it has a stronger flavor and easy-to-peel cloves. Softneck garlic typically flourishes in warmer climates, while hardneck thrives in colder regions. The best time to plant garlic is after the first frost, usually in late fall. Break the bulbs into cloves and plant them 4 to 6 inches apart, in straight rows, with 18 to 24 inches of space be-
Garlic Bread INGREDIENTS
1 loaf Italian bread 6 Tbsp salted butter, softened ½ c. parsely, chopped 3 tsp minced garlic (about 6 cloves) DIRECTIONS
Garlic is a heart-healthy food because it contains thiosulfinates that help stop arteries from becoming blocked. These thiosulfinates are created as the garlic is chopped, so the finer you chop each clove, the better it is for you. After mincing your garlic, let it sit for a few moments to allow the thiosulfinates to develop.
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GREAT GARDENS
1. Mix butter, garlic and parsley in a bowl. 2. Cut bread loaf in half lengthwise and set each half crust side down on a baking sheet. Spread the tops evenly and thickly with the butter mixture. 3. Bake at 375˚F for 15 minutes. Cool slighlty, slice and serve.
tween rows. The cloves should be planted with the pointed ends facing up. Cover the cloves with roughly two inches of soil. Garlic can grow in most soils but it is more successful in welldrained soil rich in organic matter. Adding mulch is a good way to retain moisture and regulate the temperature of the soil. Keep your garlic watered, and remove weeds regularly. In spring, start foliar feeding the garlic with a good fertilizer or manure. You should cut the
scapes when they begin to curl towards the leaves—this helps the bulbs grow larger. During midsummer, the leaves will start to discolor, usually turning yellow or brown, meaning the garlic is almost ready to harvest. Stop watering the plants, then wait until one-third of the plant looks withered or is turning brown before you start digging up the garlic bulbs. Remove excess dirt but be careful not to damage the outer layer of the garlic. To begin curing the gar-
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lic, bundle or braid the plant and hang it in a place where there is good air circulation and minimal sunlight. Curing takes around three to six weeks. Once the garlic is ready, cut the roots and store in a cool, dry place. Softneck types can be stored longer, typically around eight months, while hardnecks are good for six months or less. For more help with your garlic patch, watch this video showing how to plant and nurture garlic. •
RAVE REVIEWS
FOR REFRESH YOUR GARDEN WITH COLOR, TEXTURE & FORM Rebecca Sweet’s newest book rocketed into the Top #10 books of the gardening category the same month it was published. Gardeners of every skill level find the book helpful, and we know you will too.
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29 |
GREAT GARDENS
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After the leaves have fallen, we return to a plain sense of things. —WALLACE STEVENS, AMERICAN POET (1879–1955)
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