NO.724 MAY 2016
Tradition in evolution
MASSIMO BOTTURA SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON TOMORROW’S MEAL
Washing wonders
INDUSTRY LEADING DISHWASHERS THAT COULD MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN YOUR KITCHEN
Love problems?
MANAGING ROMANCE IN THE WORKPLACE
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Editorial
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ecent conversations I’ve had with a number of different chefs – all at different stages in their career – have opened my eyes to just how supportive the culinary community is, not only here in Australia, but across the world. We’re always hearing about how competitive the foodservice scene is, and sure, that’s true if you’re talking purely about the number of businesses within it. But if you’re referring to the individuals rather than the institutions, I think you’ve been misled. I recently had the absolute pleasure of speaking with Massimo Bottura, this month’s profile chef, and his lovely wife Lara, often referred to as the dark horse behind Osteria Francescana’s success. When asked what the future looks like for the world’s second best restaurant, she said she and Massimo are working to create a legacy so that Osteria Francescana can live far beyond the years of its operation. “Another chef of ours may leave and open a restaurant in Montreal, or a restaurant somewhere else. We hope that they take a little bit of their Osteria Francescana experience and continue it with their own direction and their own personality.” Victor Liong, who has two restaurants under his belt at the ripe old age of 31, recently told me that no other industry offers the support and mentorship of hospitality. He told a story about Melbourne restaurateur and industry veteran Andrew McConnell popping into Liong’s Lee Ho Fook restaurant when it opened on Smith Street, bearing a bottle of Champagne, a warm welcome and some words of encouragement. “It’s about adding value to your postcode. A good restaurant will never forget another good restaurant,” Liong said. And when you’re doing such long hours, fighting for every penny, you need as much support as you can get. We all know the stats about restaurant closures and profit margins. We know how hard it is to find good staff that stick around. So let’s celebrate the one thing that we have over other industries: camaraderie. Cheers to that. Danielle Bowling dbowling@intermedia.com.au
May Contents
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4
In focus
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Openings
8
Flavour of the month
10 Trends 12 Drinks
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14 Fast casual 15 Best practice 16 Cover story 20 Foodservice Australia 23 Dishwashing
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25 Shelf space & Diary 26 5 minutes with...
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PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
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JOURNALIST Aoife Boothroyd T: 02 8586 6194 aboothroyd@intermedia.com.au ADVERTISING NATIONAL Dan Shipley T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 dshipley@intermedia.com.au DESIGN Ben Akhurst ben@intermedia.com.au
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May 2016 Hospitality
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in focus
What diners want A study conducted by the Commonwealth Bank has shed light on what customers expect from the retail and foodservice sectors, with efficient and personalised service at the top of the list. Conducted by a third party market research firm, CommBank’s Retail Therapy research surveyed 1,000 consumers, looking at the emotional and rational drivers behind ‘perfect’ in-store and dine-in experiences. It found that 68 percent of customers list inefficient customer service as the biggest contributor to a poor experience, with queuing the next biggest complaint
(53 percent). Half of the respondents claim they would leave a business if they had to wait to make a payment. Technology is also crucial, with just under half (47 percent) of respondents believing businesses that use the latest technologies are more intune with the needs of their customers, and 74 percent suggesting they would stay loyal to a business that offers personalisation. Fifty-eight percent of respondents said they feel retail businesses should do more to personalise their shopping experiences, with 77 percent more likely to return to an outlet that offers loyalty programs or similar offers.
Eighty-four percent of shoppers are more likely to buy from a business they feel connected to, with 82 percent likely to spend more when they feel like a valued customer. When it comes to point of sale, 75 percent of those surveyed use a credit or debit card as their primary payment method. Other payment methods include cash (66 percent), PayPass/PayWave/ Tap&Pay (49 percent) and digital wallets (six percent). Seventy-eight percent of people want splitting bills to be an easy service provided by business owners, with 69 percent claiming they hate it when it’s not made possible. Seventy-seven
68% Use a credit or debit card as their primary payment method.
List inefficient customer service as the biggest contributor to a poor experience.
58% 78%
Want splitting bills to be an easy service provided by business owners 4
Hospitality
May 2016
Feel retail businesses should do more to personalise their shopping experiences, with 77 percent of shoppers more likely to return to an outlet that offers loyalty programs or similar offers.
percent say they find it awkward when one person has to pay the bill for everyone. When paying the bill, 65 percent of people feel anxious if they get asked to tip by a waiter/staff member, whereas 46 percent feel less pressured to leave a tip if prompted by an electronic payment terminal. Speaking on the study’s findings, Dr Johann Ponnampalam, Deakin University behavioural scientist, said “Much of our daily life involves habitual, autopilot behaviour. When in this mindset, we crave faster, simpler, easier service interactions and when we don’t receive them, we experience friction, which often leads to us avoiding purchasing altogether.”
65%
Feel anxious if they get asked to tip by a waiter, whereas 46 percent feel less pressured if prompted by an electronic payment terminal.
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Openings
1
Some of the latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene. 1
Bar Machiavelli
Sydney, NSW Seating up to 160 drinkers and diners across a cocktail area and dining room, Bar Machiavelli inhabits an historic tyre factory site on Sydney’s Neild Avenue in Rushcutters Bay.
2
Hunter Gatherer
Sydney, NSW Located on the rooftop of the Greenwood Plaza in North Sydney, this new bar and eatery boasts a Danish design with “rustic farmhouse” finishes, an abundance of lush greenery throughout the indoor and outdoor areas as well as a large terrace.
3
Coffee
Sydney, NSW Coffee Bondi Beach is a new hospitality concept for the beachside suburb, with on-site roasting, brewing lessons, chilled coffee on tap and monthly supplies of personalised blends.
4
Matcha Mylkbar
St Kilda, VIC Australia’s first specialty matcha café is offering an entirely plant-based menu, with dishes including the Matcha Mylkbar vegan eggs, comprising ‘eggs’ that mimic the texture and yolk of a traditional egg while containing the same protein and nutritional value.
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6 Hospitality May 2016
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The Newport
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Sydney, NSW The first phase of the new-look The Newport includes The Burger Shack; The Juice Bar; The Kiosk and Vinnie’s Pizza, where guests can order directly via The Newport app. The pub also features a retro-inspired games area.
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Lower Mekong
Sydney, NSW This casual Vietnamese diner offers a selection of entrées including pork belly buns and rice paper pancakes; mains such as traditional beef and chicken noodle soup and Vietnamese pancakes and desserts like banana sago and milo crème caramel.
7
PappaRich
Brisbane, QLD The Malaysian restaurant’s first Brisbane venue boasts a menu comprising freshly made Roti Canai; Hainan bread with kaya (coconut jam) and butter; Nasi Lemak; various laksas; a range of noodle and rice dishes; as well as desserts.
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Grinders Coffee House
Melbourne, VIC The renovated flagship store serves speciality small batch single origin coffee roasted in-house. With throwbacks to Grinders’ original 1962 Lygon Street roots, the store features the original ‘Old Red’ Grinders coffee roaster as its centrepiece. May 2016 Hospitality 7
Flavour of the month Brussels sprouts may have had a bad rap in the past, but they’re making a major comeback. Newer varieties are sweeter eating and are at their best between March and September.
Brussels sprouts SOURCING: Brussels sprouts are grown in temperate climates in Australia across five states: QLD: Fassifern Valley, Locker Valley, Stanthorpe NSW: Bathurst VIC: Melbourne, metropolitan area TAS: North west SA: Adelaide Hills and Mt Baker WA: Perth, metropolitan outer areas
WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Brussels sprouts pack a punch when it comes to nutrition, supplying dietary fibre, potassium and a range of vitamins (A, C, E, B1, B2, B6, folate and pantothenic acid).
More than a side dish, Brussels sprouts can add colour, depth of flavour and texture. They are relished when cooked well and embellished with spices, herbs and flavourings. Sprouts are wonderfully versatile and with a quick steam, pan-fry, stir-fry, roast or boil, they’re far from lacklustre.
FLAVOUR MATCHES: Team with bacon, prosciutto, ham, pancetta or a spicy sausage; hazelnuts; olive oil; butter; cranberries; chestnuts; tomatoes; pasta; tahini; lentils; rice; cheeses; pumpkin; garlic; balsamic vinegar; citrus; sage; maple syrup; sesame; and spicy Asian flavours.
TASTY APPLICATIONS: n n n
n
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Cut in half and steam, then toss through sautéed chorizo and crispy breadcrumbs Cut into wedges, sauté with sliced leeks and toss with roasted and peeled chestnuts Shred Brussels sprouts in a food processor, and then pan-fry with garlic, Worcester sauce and fresh sage Separate leaves from each Brussels sprout, place on a tray, spray with olive oil and sprinkle with flaked salt then roast in a hot oven until leaves are crisp Finely slice Brussels sprouts and add to a risotto with peas and provolone cheese Team shredded Brussels sprouts with citrus segments and toasted walnuts or pine nuts for a salad
STORAGE: Brussels sprouts deteriorate quickly if not stored at the optimum temperature. Store sprouts in their original packaging in the cool room at 0°C and 90-100 percent humidity. For maximum quality, use within three to four days.
PREP TIPS: Trim the base and leave whole, halve, quarter, shred or separate the small leaves. If cooking whole, cut a cross in the base of each sprout to ensure faster and more even cooking. The golden rule is to not overcook this veggie. It’s best to cook Brussels sprouts rapidly so they retain their colour, flavour and nutrients.
LOOK OUT FOR: Tightly-closed Brussels sprouts that are small to medium in size. The most tender and sweetest sprouts are 2-3.5 cm in diameter with bright green crisp compact leaves. They should have a pleasant, fresh aroma. Credit: Sue Dodd, fresh produce consultant at Sydney Markets 8
Hospitality
May 2016
Trends Healthy, fresh and great on-the-run. Is poke the next must-have dish on your menu? By Danielle Bowling.
Salmon & Bear's Mark Jensen
Tokyo Tina exec chef, Adrian Li
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Hospitality
May 2016
Poke S
een by chefs as relatively simple to prepare, and by diners as a healthy, flavoursome and affordable meal, poke is earning its place on a growing number of restaurant menus around the country. A Hawaiian raw fish salad, poke (pronounced po-kay) traditionally comprises diced fish, rice and a range of garnishes including soy sauce, chilli, green onions and seaweed. Originally identified as a healthy option for the summer menu at Sydney’s Salmon & Bear, poke’s popularity has been growing so significantly that co-founder Mark Jensen has no plans to take it off. “The first week we put it on, we sold about 20 and now I think we’re up to about 140 some five or six weeks later,” he said. “It’s definitely earned its place on the menu now. We’re looking at doing other things with it … I think the fact that we’re using the corn and coriander salsa is kind of different, and we’re going to be exploring different fish that we could use. Maybe we’ll change it up with some fried kale? Maybe we won't even use rice? We could use buckwheat noodles or something like that.” There are currently two poke variations on the Salmon & Bear menu: raw cubed salmon in a soy and sesame dressing with corn salsa and avocado and coconut rice ($21); and raw cubed tuna in a chilli and lemongrass dressing served with kimchi and seaweed salad, also on coconut rice ($24). According to Jensen, the salmon dish outsells its tuna counterpart two to one, but that doesn’t mean chefs shouldn’t consider using other, less common species of fish. “You need a larger pelagic fish that you can dice into cubes; that’s why salmon and
tuna work really well. Kingfish would work well too.” Tokyo Tina in Victoria’s Windsor has three different pokes on the menu, and like at Salmon & Bear, the salmon is the standout. “We were looking for something a bit lighter for the lunch market. We didn’t want to go down the sushi line but we like those elements: the raw fish and the rice," Tokyo Tina’s director Simon Blacher said. "The lunch market can be a really good one if you can capture it, and we just feel that poke is a really good, one bowl meal. When you eat it, you don’t feel too full; you can go back to work. It’s healthy, as opposed to things like ramen which are also on the menu, but are more of a commitment." Not only does the dish resonate with health conscious diners that are on-the-go (both Salmon & Bear and Tokyo Tina offer poke as a takeaway item), it’s also a relatively easy dish for the kitchen to pump out. “It’s a bit of work to prepare because you’ve got to break down whole fish and make sure you’re using the right cuts, but in terms of plating up, it’s relatively quick. You just grab a bowl and chuck in the rice and the rest of the elements. There isn’t too much cooking involved,” he said. Poke has been on the menu at Tokyo Tina for about five months, and the restaurant’s now selling up to 40 serves a day. Blacher is confident this number will continue to rise. “It’s definitely popping up a lot in the US now, and we get some of our trends from the states. I know it’s exploded in LA and I’ve seen a couple of places pop up in Sydney… I guarantee that this time next year poke will be huge.” n
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drinks
The magic of Mezcal Tequila's smoky sibling, mezcal has attracted quite the cult following across Australia’s bar scene of late. We’ve even got dedicated mezcaliers to help us navigate what's on offer, writes Aoife Boothroyd.
W
hisk(e)y was all the rage in 2014; gin was the spirit of choice in 2015 and many have touted that 2016 belongs to rum. But what about tequila? Or its more potent, smoky sibling, mezcal? While it’s not yet considered a must-have on cocktail menus around the country, Nick Peters, co-owner and restaurant manager of Melbourne Mexican eating house Mamasita, believes mezcal is a category that has a lot to offer. So much so that he has dedicated mezcaliers (mezcal sommeliers) on shift during every service to guide diners through the venue’s 150-strong list. To call yourself a mezcalier, you need to be certified, but what’s involved? “You need to head to Oaxaca (Mexico) and drinks lots of mezcal,” said Peters. “The course itself is conducted in four sections, covering everything from the history and anthropology of mezcal to different agave varieties, the broader mezcal category including tequila, raicilla, sotol and bacanora. It also covers planting and production; tastings and cooking with mezcal; harvesting plants; crushing agaves and making mezcal in Oaxaca. You also visit numerous palenques and agave plantations. There are some sections that run in the US, although the majority of the courses take place in Oaxaca. I’ve just been approved to conduct sections one to three of the certified program here in Australia, which is amazing.”
APPRECIATION THROUGH EDUCATION Since completing the course in October 2014, Peters has turned Mamasita into an
institution when it comes to appreciating mezcal. Peters said that this focus has given the restaurant a unique point of difference, helping it to attract both new customers and good staff. “By having trained mezcaliers on-site for every service, it’s provided an opportunity for our staff to learn more, giving them an extra reason to come to work,” he said. “They then pass on their newfound knowledge to customers, and as a result, we’ve seen definite growth in our beverage sales. “We now have half a dozen keen and well-trained Mamasita mezcaliers, with a mezcalier working every night of the week. I’m a firm believer that the more training you can provide and the more opportunities you make available, the better the staff will be and the more they’ll want to keep working with you.” In addition to the mezcalier guided flights and food matching service available at Mamasita, the love for mezcal also extends to the food menu, with a number of mezcal-centric dishes on offer including the ceviche a la Veracruzana which features snapper, mezcal, lime, tomato, chilli, onion and capers. In terms of sourcing the spirit, Peters admits that it was initially quite challenging to build up the venue’s collection, however a wider appreciation for mezcal started to develop a few years ago and has seen a number of different brands introduced by local distributors. “It’s much better now than it was when we opened back in 2010, and it’s getting better all the time. Having said that, we still rely on friends and family to get us some of our favourites." n
Mezcal and tequila: what’s the difference? All tequilas are mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequilas. Tequila can only be made from agave tequilana, whereas mezcal is generally produced from up to 40 different varieties of the maguey plant. Production: In tequila production, the ‘piñas’ are cooked for 24-48 hours by high pressure, much like a pressure cooker; resulting in a clean, crisp flavour. For mezcal, piñas are roasted, often in pit ovens, for three to five days. These ovens are earthen mounds over pits of hot rocks, which gives mezcal its intense, smoky flavour. ABV: Tequilas generally sit between 38–40 percent ABV. Mezcals tend to have a higher alcohol by volume content than tequilas - generally around 45-55 percent ABV.
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Hospitality May 2016
Origin: Similar to Champagne in France, tequila may only be produced in the state of Jalisco and limited regions in the US including Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit and Tamaulipas. Mezcal’s Denomination of Origin states are Guerrero, Oaxaca, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas and most recently Michoacán. Approximately 80 percent of all mezcal is made in the state of Oaxaca, Mexico. Volume: Around 300 million litres of tequila is produced annually. Certified mezcal production is around 1.5-2 million litres per year, although total production is believed to be around 4-5 million litres.
fast casual
From pizza to pita The offering at Zeus Street Greek is much more complicated than that of the franchise Peter Augoustis co-founded some 15 years ago. But it’s a labour of love and one that responds to diner demands. By Danielle Bowling.
P
eter Augoustis knows a thing or two about growing successful fast casual food concepts. He’s one of the founders of Crust Pizza, which launched in 2001 and was sold to the Retail Food Group in 2012, garnering $24 million for 119 outlets. In 2014 Augoustis’ focus shifted closer to home. Together with fellow Crust founder Costa Anastasiadis and the Pony Dining Group, he created Zeus Street Greek, which now boasts six outlets: four in Sydney, one in Newcastle and another in Brisbane.
A WHOLE NEW BALL GAME Named after the Greek god for hospitality, Zeus offers Greek street food in a casual, welcoming environment. Menu items include pitas, slow cooked lamb, pork or chicken from the souvla, salads, a range of dips and side dishes as well as desserts like the much loved salted caramel loukoumades. The menu is much more time consuming and laborious than that of Crust, but Augoustis and his team were well aware of this before they opened the first Zeus store in Sydney’s Drummoyne. “We came from a scenario where you made a product, you ran it through this fancy conveyor belt oven, and voila – there’s $20. Today, we do slow cooked lamb shoulder on the chargrill, we have various starters and all of these other menu items that we want to give to our customer base. It’s a whole different dynamic,” he told Hospitality. “We’ve done that because [at the time of Zeus’ inception] we were noticing what mums like to eat, what dads like, what families like, and we decided to try to meet up with where the market was going. So Zeus is about working with proteins, clean 14 Hospitality May 2016
At a glance
that – especially with new customers – they’re asking what it is.”
Business name: Zeus Street Greek
EXPANSION PLANS
When was the business established? June 2014
The public’s understanding of the Greek street food concept will improve as more Zeus outlets open around the country, Augoustis said. The brand is looking at further expansion interstate, and is preparing to launch a new express model at Sydney’s Pitt St Mall and also in Broadway. “It’s more of a fast paced Zeus, that’s operator friendly and caters to that fast, inand-out lunch market that we feel people need from Zeus,” Augoustis said. “We’re only working with a few square metres, so our brains are ticking over now. How are we going to lay out our menu? How will we meet customer demand? But it’s so exciting to be able to offer a Zeus pita, something that’s just quick to bundle, while also having a lower carb offering in that 10 minute, $15 lunch market.” Similar to the way in which Crust was operated, Augoustis predicts that Zeus will be predominantly a franchised system in the next 12 to 18 months. There are already two franchisees in Sydney, and another two going through the induction process. “They are our business partners, and part of the Zeus family. We have people that live and breathe their store, which is important to us. Being a remote operator, it’s hard for us (the founders) to put the layers of who we are throughout the stores. That’s why we’re quite strong on having franchisees. From our experience, watching these operators be part of the store, part of the local community, fulfilling what Zeus stands for and having a face to the store is very important. I’m strong on believing that a franchisee can offer that.” n
Number of locations? Six: four in Sydney, one in Newcastle and one in Brisbane Number of staff members? 180. There are approximately 25 – 30 staff per store, and 10 in head office Most valuable asset in the business? Our extended Zeus family – staff, customers, suppliers and the wider community Plans for 2016? An additional six stores – a mix of high street locations and express concept stores
salads, an easy to order offering, interesting flavour combinations, and using good quality food. Those are the boxes that we’re ticking, and then obviously bringing out the life of our Greek background and the story of Zeus.” One of the biggest challenges of launching the new concept has been educating the market on exactly what Zeus is offering, Augoustis said. “The name ‘Crust’ and pizza – people could put two and two together. But now I’ve got this story about Zeus. Where does Greek street food sit in the marketplace? These are unchartered waters. Who is Zeus? What do we do? How can we explain that to our customers with just a logo? That was a big learning experience … We’ve spent so much time, effort and money in creating a beautiful experience, but sometimes you find
best practice
Love problems at work: are you at risk? Is love in the air at your business? This might create a nice atmosphere and could improve morale for certain staff members, but it can also go the other way. Before giving your blessing, put some thought into these eight pointers. By Ken Burgin.
I
t’s not uncommon for people to find love at work, and while we’re all for the warm and fuzzy stuff, romantic relationships need to be handled with care to ensure your business doesn’t suffer as a result. Legally, it could be regarded as discriminatory to say ‘no relationships between staff’, but clear rules need to be put in place to avoid disruption.
1. HARASSMENT AND DISCRIMINATION Your duty of care for staff means you should make sure both parties in a workplace relationship have chosen it freely and willingly. Interview them separately to check. But blanket rules banning relationships could fall foul of local anti-discrimination laws – check with your legal advisers.
2. CONFLICT OF INTEREST Relationships between senior staff and those who work for them could easily result in a conflict of interest. Anything involving salary reviews, promotions or work allocation may need someone else involved. The onus is on the senior person to show that they are not favouring one party over another. A transfer to another department will simplify matters, but that may not be possible.
two good staff, both of whom were great performers before they formed a relationship, but their work deteriorated badly after they split. Her rule now is ‘No fishing from the company wharf’! A decline in performance could lead to warnings and even termination – let’s hope that doesn’t happen but if you mention this possibility in your interview with the new lovers, you help to protect yourself from allegations of harshness.
6. PUBLIC BEHAVIOUR The public don’t want to see staff making out with each other, and – more than likely – neither do their colleagues. They also don’t want to hear the lurid details of a young punk or princess’ love life. Cover this in your general rules about staff modesty and acceptable behaviour. Your policy might start with something like ‘All staff have the right to a happy, loving and supportive relationship. However, if you form a relationship with a person working here, there are several issues you need to be aware of... ‘
7. BOYS & GIRLS, GIRLS & GIRLS, BOYS & BOYS Gay, bi and lesbian relationships are now openly accepted by most staff and customers, but there may be pushback from some people. You’ll need to make sure local anti-discrimination laws are understood and followed.
8. CHECK YOUR LEGAL RIGHT TO DIRECT STAFF BEHAVIOUR As you can see from the above, workplace relationships are a complex issue with personal, management and legal implications regarding privacy, discrimination and moral judgements. Make sure you discuss your plans and policies with your legal advisor. Industry associations usually have excellent experience in this area too. There’s no escaping this – it’s called human nature. Take a stand, be fair, and make sure all your policies are in writing. n Ken Burgin is owner of Profitable Hospitality, profitablehospitality.com.au
3. DISCUSSION OF SEXUAL HEALTH AND PREGNANCY Casual sex can have unwanted and unexpected consequences. Discussing these consequences is easier and more socially acceptable these days. What information is appropriate to display in your staff area?
4. ONLINE DATING AND WEBSITE ACCESS This should be covered in your general policy on computer access: keeping up-to-date on who’s ‘available’ should be done at home, not work. How will you monitor and enforce this? You need guidelines for staff on the use of social media – a tough one to keep on top of, but essential nonetheless.
5. DECREASED PERFORMANCE When relationships break down, the drama can be very disruptive for the business. One cafe owner mentioned how she lost May 2016 Hospitality 15
cover story
Image credit: Paolo Terzi
Tradition in evolution The man behind Italy’s best restaurant and arguably one of the world’s most influential chefs, Massimo Bottura was in Australia recently to talk about the future of food and foodservice. He shares his thoughts with Danielle Bowling.
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here’s a reason why Massimo Bottura is one of the world’s most loved chefs. Of course he’s hugely successful; his restaurant, Osteria Francescana, which he opened in 1995, has three Michelin stars and is rated second best in the world according to San Pellegrino’s 50 Best Restaurants List. He names Alain Ducasse and Ferran Adria as being amongst his biggest influencers, and despite locals’ initial reluctance to embrace his unconventional approach to Italian cuisine, he helped put the town of Modena on the map by offering a menu the likes of which the world has never seen before. But it’s more than that. Chefs and food lovers across the globe find Bottura’s humility, passion and excitement contagious. He’s constantly thinking about the next step, not just for Osteria Francescana, but for Italian cuisine and the restaurant industry at large, with a particular focus on the people and produce that make it what it is. In Sydney for the recent MAD Symposium, a one day food summit hosted by fellow 16 Hospitality May 2016
acclaimed chef Rene Redzepi, Hospitality was lucky enough to steal a few minutes of Bottura’s time to talk about his restaurant, his team and his vision for the future.
TOMORROW’S MEAL The theme of the MAD Symposium, held at Sydney’s Opera House, was ‘Tomorrow’s Meal’. Chefs David Chang, Neil Perry, Peter Gilmore and Kylie Kwong joined Redzepi and Bottura as well as other food professionals in discussing the key changes that the foodservice industry will witness over the coming years. According to Bottura, the best is yet to come for Australia. “For you, in Australia, it’s exciting. You have so many things to build and so many things to put together. I was reflecting on one of the panel discussions from MAD where we were asked ‘what is Australian cuisine?’ And I don’t think it’s what Rene did here (with his 10 week Noma Australia pop-up at Barangaroo). That’s not Australian cuisine. Those are Australian ingredients reinterpreted by a Danish mind,” Bottura said.
“I think what Australia has to do is find traditions. And what are traditions? Traditions are innovations that are well done. When people realise that an innovation was extremely well done, it becomes tradition. Pizza. Pasta. Tortellini. Lasagna … So what I think Australian chefs should do, is get closer to the farmer, the fisherman, the cheesemakers. For example, cook with fire and start adding techniques to create new dishes, or, through a contemporary mind, start reinterpreting some plates that are part of growing up. Like that, you create a new Australian cuisine,” he said. Bottura lists Ben Shewry (Attica), Peter Gilmore (Quay and Bennelong) and Lennox Hastie (Firedoor) as examples of chefs who are using quality Australian produce to recreate and reinterpret classically Australian concepts. Back in Modena, tomorrow’s meal is totally different. “It’s different because we have so many centuries of history that we don’t have to build; we have to break. We don’t have to build a cuisine and tradition, but we have to break
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tradition to make sure that traditions are going to evolve in the right way,” he said. That is the very essence of Bottura’s philosophy at Osteria Francescana: to look at tradition with a critical eye, take the best parts of it and present them to diners in a way that evokes emotion and lets the quality of the produce speak for itself. Some of the most popular examples from his menu include the dessert Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart, the result of a happy accident in the kitchen where one of the restaurant’s chefs dropped a lemon tart just prior to its service, prompting Bottura to completely reassess how the classic dish should be enjoyed. Another is Memory of a Mortadella Sandwich, the traditional version of which Bottura had every day as a child, and which took him four years to recreate at Osteria Francescana, eventually reinterpreted as a mortadella foam with a gnoccho fritto, pistachio and garlic cream. “If you look at the past in a critical way, you can see the wrong parts of tradition and change it to get the best parts and bring them into
the future. If you see the past and you look at tradition in a nostalgic way, you don’t evolve.” It’s so important to Bottura that his dishes evoke emotion in his diners, and while many may see him as completely reinventing Italian cuisine, he says that one of the best ways to connect with Osteria Francescana’s guests is to find creative ways to honour their most treasured food memories. “If you think about the crunchy part of lasagna (another dish at Osteria Francescana), that’s not contemporary Italian. It’s Italian cuisine in its most emotional form. Because serving, on a plate, the crunchy part of the lasagna – you know, it goes directly to the heart. Every kid in the world knows that the best part of the big pan of lasagna is the crunchy part on top. And that’s what I’m doing,” he said. “To me, it’s about transferring emotion. The crust of parmigiano reggiano that you can chew, sometimes that’s more emotional than a mediocre caviar. So emotion is the most important thing. “When I see tears in the eyes of people? Yes, that’s success.”
Caesar salad in bloom
“If you think about the crunchy part of lasagna, that’s not contemporary Italian. It’s Italian cuisine in its most emotional form.”
Oops! I dropped the lemon tart
THE NEXT GENERATION So what does it take to run the world’s second best restaurant? Passion and preparation, Bottura said. He looks for chefs and service staff that are as creative and excited as he is, and who are prepared to work hard in order to deliver a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience, day after day. “If you’re good at something, even if you didn’t practice in the best restaurants, it doesn’t matter. If you’re good and you’re devoted, you’re passionate, you read, you listen, you’re educated – then you’re going to find a family at Osteria Francescana.” The restaurant currently employs 43 staff for a total of 30 covers per service: equating to 1.4 staff members per patron. “When I realised 16 or 17 years ago that I had to create a very important team, that was the key moment for the restaurant. Because the team is everything. Yes, I am the chef and I’m the one that keeps everything together; maybe I’m the visionary, but the team is the team. And I’m here in Sydney talking to you and I
Fish soup
Intimate dining at Osteria Francescana
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feel comfortable to leave Modena because of the team and the people that are working with me. They know exactly what I think and how I want things,” he said. Bottura’s two sous chefs have been with him for 12 years, and his maitre’d for 16. The restaurant gets 1,900 stage applications each year. It’s fair to say that the staffing crisis that so many Australian chefs struggle with isn’t shared in Modena. But that’s not to say Bottura doesn’t recognise the difference between today’s young chefs and those of his own generation. “Now, a big percentage of young chefs arrive in the industry because of TV, because they want to be part of the cooking scene, but they don’t realise that our job is about hard work. Every day. So 90 percent is hard work, and 10 percent is talent. Young chefs don’t realise that when I say ‘learn everything’, that doesn’t mean moving from Noma to Osteria Francescana, El Celler de Can Roca to Alain Ducasse and crossing them off your list. No. “The younger generation, they want to do stages. They are very quick, because they think they’ll learn everything (that way). But the most important things are culture, vision, intuition. For a restaurant like ours, it’s not just about good food. It’s also about good ideas. That is extremely important,” he said. When in Modena, Bottura is at the restaurant all the time, greeting guests and motivating and educating his team members. “It’s all about passion. I give a speech every week about ideas and vision. And they absorb these kinds of things. I want everyone to read my book, because it’s not a cooking book, it’s more like a creative book. They have to understand how every single recipe has
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been created and why. This is my cuisine. And if you keep stimulating their mind, they’re going to stay close to you.”
THE CALL TO ACT Throughout Bottura’s presentation at MAD, he continued to repeat the line ‘cooking is a call to act.’ It goes without saying that Bottura has used his profile as one of the world’s best chefs to encourage people to see food as a cultural representation and a creative expression rather than just a source of fuel. But he’s also encouraging chefs to make better business decisions, not for their bottom line, but for the wellbeing of the community. As such, Bottura has launched the Food for Soul Foundation, which supports the opening of soup kitchens around the world and aims to shed light on food wastage. The call to act isn’t reserved for high profile chefs or those with a global reach. You don’t need to own a chain of restaurants or have your own wine label. Every single foodservice business can make good choices, Bottura said, even the little pizza store on the corner. “They can do it. For example, they can look at what kind of flour they choose, what kind of yeast
they use. Maybe they can create another yeast and wait at least 36 hours for the dough to rise? Use the right tomatoes, or the perfect mozzarella. And at one point, the life of the pizza will be ready, you’ll serve it and it will be perfect. Then, when there’s pizza left at the end of the day, use a chain to recycle or serve that pizza to the right people, who need it. That’s the right way to act. That’s the call to act.” He’s adamant that Food for Soul is not a charity organisation, but rather a non-profit cultural project. During his MAD presentation, he told the audience, “Do we need more soup kitchens? We need more places that revive neighbourhoods. We need more places that restore the body and the soul. If we change the way we think about ingredients, nourishment and community; if we stop throwing away our food; if we revive ethical practices in the kitchen, this can be the start of a new culinary tradition. “I am a chef and when I think about the future of food, I think about ingredients. What is the single most important ingredient for the future? Culture. Culture brings knowledge. Knowledge leads to consciousness. From consciousness to a sense of responsibility is a very small step.” n
“If you see the past and you look at tradition in a nostalgic way, you don’t evolve.”
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Finding your way: Foodservice Australia Specifically targeting food and beverage professionals, the Foodservice Australia tradeshow is back in 2016, with an impressive line-up of exhibitors, events and presentations.
The details: Foodservice Australia 2016 May 22–24, 10am-5pm Royal Hall of Industries and Hordern Pavilion, Moore Park, Sydney
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lternating each year between Sydney and Melbourne, the Foodservice Australia tradeshow is this year setting up shop in Sydney’s Moore Park. Run over three days, the show offers restaurateurs, caterers and other hospitality professionals the chance to connect with current and future suppliers while also getting advice on how to improve their efficiency and profitability. Tim Collett, event director, said “The show is moving with the times to offer an entertaining and valuable experience for busy food and hospitality operators. This is the only event focused on the hospitality industry. That means in just a few hours they can see all their suppliers, discover new products, learn a few new tricks and take these all back to their own business.” With 200 exhibitors showing off their latest and greatest products, Foodservice Australia allows busy industry professionals to stay up-to-date on the latest developments in kitchen equipment, point of sale software, fresh and flavoursome ingredients and creative design elements. After perusing the show floor, guests will no doubt need to rest their feet, and will be able to find respite at one of the show’s
many educational masterclasses, seminars and live cooking competitions. Two new features this year are the Savour Patissier of the Year competition, and the National Restaurant Conference. Hospitality will also be exhibiting at Foodservice Australia! Feel free to swing past stand B7 and say hi!
SHOW HIGHLIGHTS: UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS CHEF OF THE YEAR The Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the Year competition returns for another year, with entries from top professional chefs working around the country. Judges will select the top 32 entrants to compete over the three days of Foodservice Australia, where show visitors will be able to watch the action at the centre of the Royal Hall of Industries. The line-up of finalists will include the 2015 champion Chris Malone, who is flying from Perth to defend his title. Up for grabs is a total prize pool of $10,000. The winner of each heat receives $500, while the winner of the grand final receives the trophy plus $6,000. “The finalists are competing against each other and against the clock,” said competition director Gary Farrell. “It is high
Foodservice Australia
pressure action that tests their culinary skills, creativity and ability to work under pressure – with the judges and hordes of spectators all watching every move they make.”
BAKERY ZONE The Hordern Pavilion will host an expanded bakery offering to showcase the diverse range of suppliers in this growing sector, with exhibitors such as Goodman Fielder, EOI, W&P Reedy, Mackies, Ready Bake, Mission Foods, Tasmanian Bakeries, Dalya Australia, Callebaut, Ravifruit, Unox, Confoil and Kwik Lok. “The new Bakery Zone will showcase the ingredients, equipment and skills required by bakers and patissiers in the 21st century,” said Tim Collett. “It will also house three exciting competitions that will draw the best of the best to test their talent.”
SAVOUR PATISSIER OF THE YEAR This new competition is organised by Kirsten Tibballs from Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School, featuring top judges from Australia and overseas, including Frank Haasnoot, Jordi Bordas, Julien Alvarez and Paul Kennedy. “This will be an incredible opportunity for patissiers to showcase their talent and dedication, and will provide nail-biting excitement for visitors as they cheer on the contestants,” said Tibballs. The 30 competitors include professional pastry chefs and chocolatiers from well-known restaurants, hotels and patisseries, as well as self-employed pastry chefs. They will compete for the title, $10,000 cash and over $25,000 in prizes including a trip to Hong Kong to learn from Marike Van Beurden at the Ravifruit Studio.
DAIRYMONT GLOBAL PIZZA CHALLENGE The Hordern Pavilion will host the Dairymont Global Pizza Challenge on 22 May, where a panel of esteemed judges will assess each entry on originality, balance, creativity and audience excitement. Open to anyone working in an independent pizza outlet or a chain with five stores or less, the competition will comprise separate categories for meat, seafood, dessert and the best interpretation of meat, cheese and pineapple. The 2016 Champion will win a trophy and a SKAD Scooter.
AUSTRALIA’S BEST PIE & PASTIE A show highlight, this contest celebrates the best from bakers across Australia. Organised by the Baking Association of Australia, the competition allows visitors to watch the judging live, while chatting with judges and receiving tips on making the perfect pies and pasties.
New National Restaurant Conference
The inaugural National Restaurant Conference will be held on the floor of Foodservice Australia for the first time. Supported by industry association, Restaurant & Catering Australia (R&CA), speakers at the conference will include R&CA CEO John Hart, Colin Fassnidge from 4Fourteen, Catalina’s Judy and James McMahon, chef Scott Webster, Mark Dorrell from Gault&Millau Australia, Profitable Hospitality’s Ken Burgin, and recruitment specialist Geremy Glew. The conference will run from 9am-4pm on Monday 23 May, with topics including finding and keeping good chefs; global food trends; tapping into tourists; making technology work for you; and case studies on how to stay relevant and profitable in changing times. Registrations are $249 including all sessions and lunch, with a special limited offer of $99 for R&CA members. “Owners and senior managers will get the most out of this event, but it is open to anyone working in the hospitality industry and we encourage businesses large and small to bring their team, so all staff may benefit,” said Tim Collett, event director.
Timetable State of the industry R&CA's John Hart shares an industry overview including key statistics, industry issues and the latest news from Canberra. Managing social media Ken Burgin talks to suppliers and operators about how to manage their reputation online and generate additional covers on quiet nights. Pricing for profitability John Hart asks industry experts about how variable pricing and yield management can improve the bottom line. Tapping into tourists Tourism Australia speaks about the surge in international visitors and how restaurants can tap into the tourist market. Finding and keeping good chefs Ken Burgin and an industry panel discuss how to attract and retain the right staff in the kitchen. Global food trends Panel discussion with Colin Fassnidge, 4Fourteen; Mark Dorrell, Gault&Millau; and Scott Webster, consulting chef 12.15-1.45pm - lunch on the show floor The butcher and the chef A workshop demonstrating how to handle less expensive cuts of beef. Staying relevant and profitable Andy North from The Star and Catalina's Judy and James McMahon share tips on how to stay ahead in business. Making technology work for you A panel discussion featuring Frank Tucker from the Urban Purveyor Group (UPG). Food allergies: a business opportunity Dr Sue Shepherd shares pointers on how accommodating for dietary requirements can be the path to greater sales.
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CAFÉ SCHOOL Café, sandwich bar, takeaway and deli operators can learn how to make the most of the boom in the daytime dining and food-togo sectors at the Café School in the Royal Hall of Industries. Topics over the course of the free three day program focus on profits, sustainability and market intelligence. Entry is free for the first 40 guests to each session.
GLUTEN FREE WORLD Making its Sydney debut after a successful launch in Melbourne last year, Gluten Free World offers chefs and caterers the opportunity to learn more about this growing segment, with free seminars and new products to sample. Experts from Coeliac Australia, Shepherd Works and Allergy Australia will be available to answer questions and help industry professionals with menu options. n Entry is restricted to people who work in the food or hospitality industry. Registration is free if you register online before the event. Go to foodserviceaustralia.com.au
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dishwashing
Washing wonders Malcolm Richardson lists three washers that can save you time, money and effort in the kitchen.
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y first job in the industry, over 25 years ago, was washing dishes. Like many of us this was the dream beginning. I was on my way to establishing a career in hospitality. But once through the door, the dream quickly became the nightmare. Piles and piles of dirty dishes, pots, pans and cutlery, all needing to be cleaned to perfection, and between you and the huge steaming washer in the corner, they needed to be done quickly. Fighting with clogged screens, waiting for the washer to recover its heat and of course having to double wash because the machine fell down on the job – the things dreams are made of. Right? Thanks to the hard work and genius of today’s equipment designers, that nightmare is now a thing of the past. The technology of the basics hasn’t changed, but the overall operation and control has. For the most part, they still stand in the corner. They still cast a shadow over the rest of the night as being the one piece of equipment that can, in all seriousness, make or break your profits. These creatures can be the single biggest hole for wages and utilities. Being mindful that a washer can swallow up time in recovery and use a lot more water than any other area of the kitchen – or the whole venue for that matter – will make the choice easier when it comes time to buying or upgrading your existing stock. There are a lot of brands and models on the market today. Some manufacturers cover all types of washers for all areas of your venue, while others target their wares to a particular section of the business. Here's some food for thought:
HOBART PROFI UX The Hobart Profi UX is a class leader when it comes to finding a piece of equipment that covers all aspects of your dishwashing needs. The research that has gone into the design
is unmatched. The unit boasts pulsing nozzles that generate a stronger washing pressure; rotating four spoke wash arms create a deflection off the internal walls, and intensify the wash action; and the fine filter system GENIUS-X2 reduces detergent consumption by up to 30 percent. Incredibly well designed with economy and performance in mind, the unit also has Ecotherm technology. This ensures that a constant 60 degree temperature is maintained at all times, helping you to get the best performance from your wash liquid. It also helps the drying process. By keeping the temperature constant, the washed items absorb more heat and dry quicker – brilliant when you have consecutive service periods or a large turnover.
ABOVE: Winterhalter's PT Climate Plus BELOW: Hobart Profi UX
WINTERHALTER PT CLIMATE PLUS I had the pleasure of judging this unit at Fine Food in Sydney last year with Hospitality’s editor. This unit was a serious piece of kit. A washer with the ability to take hot, steamy air from the kitchen and convert that to usable resources for the wash cycle – amazing. The PT Climate Plus looks almost like any other unit on the market. Tall, shiny and a reminder that you still have dishes to do. What you instantly notice though is a small addition to the top of the unit that looks like a small hood. Now, like many units on the market today, you could be forgiven for thinking it was a unit mounted exhaust hood, but what this does is like nothing you have ever seen. This unit takes the hot air from around the kitchen, and depending on your layout, uses the heat and moisture to supply the washer. No doubt you have seen the steam coming from a washer when you open it after a cycle. This washer can grab that steam and put it back to use in the unit again. By filtering the water for filling the tank and using the steam to heat the water, this machine can almost supply itself with its May 2016 Hospitality 23
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An Anets deep fryer offers a smarter commercial kitchen equipment solution at a price point that represents true value for money. Anets gas and electric deep fryers contain unique design features that will benefit customers every single day. In addition, Anets offers a full range of filtration systems, electric open pot fryers, chip dumps and accessories, providing everything needed to optimise the frying systems performance. Customers can have complete confidence that a deep fryer from Anets will do the job that is asked of it day in day out. At Stoddart, we understand that there is nothing that cannot be improved upon.
own needs from its own waste. By doing so, the washer itself can save you thousands of litres of water and a huge amount of power. The unit is priced a little higher than its competitors, but the extra you spend at purchase time you will more than make up in utilities.
WASHTEC GM HIGH PERFORMANCE GLASS WASHER Patrons are quick to judge the quality of a restaurant or bar, and cleanliness is one of the most obvious determinants. Being that almost everyone that walks through your doors will pick up a glass at one point or another, the quality and cleanliness of glassware is hugely important. Choosing a glass washer to meet your requirements may seem simple, but they’re not all the same. The Washtec GM series washer provides some extra offerings that others leave out. Take, for example, the insulated and sound deadened front door, the quick cycle and the selectable cold rinse option. These may seem boring in description, but when combined they create a washer that's easy to use and also pleasant to work around. One of the unit’s most desirable features is the soft start cycle. Along with the ecopower mode, the soft start will help you save the bucks. Placing your delicate wine or cocktail glasses in the washer can be a handful, but once they are inside they can be just as dangerous. Imagine placing a delicate champagne flute on the floor and blasting a pressure washer hose into it. It won’t last long. The same happens in a glass washer. Once you close that door, a high pressure jet is hammered into the glasses inside. This can send them flying in all directions – even smashing them. The soft start feature ramps up the pressure gently and evenly until it reaches full power. This ensures a smooth, even clean, and more importantly ensures your glasses survive the cycle. A thing to remember about all equipment, not just washers, is that money shouldn’t dictate your final decision. It’s hard to factor these items into your set-up costs, but keep in the front of your mind the fact that cheap units will cost you more over time – much more than the up-front costs. Shopping for equipment with a well planned and well researched approach will always save you money and stress. n
Malcolm Richardson is a director at Hospitality Consultants Australia. hospitalityconsultant.com.au 24
Hospitality May 2016
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For the diary
Thermofilm’s Heatstrip Elegance Off-white rather than black, this outdoor-rated strip heater is available from this month and blends seamlessly with most white ceilings in al fresco, verandah and patio areas. They are also approximately 12 percent shorter than traditional black Heatstrip heaters, therefore taking up less space. heatstrip.com.au
25g Nutella jars
Available as an add-on to consumers purchasing pastries or other baked goods, the new Nutella 25g jars feature the same Nutella branding that can be seen in retail outlets – but in a single-serve size. Exclusive to foodservice, the single serve portions are suitable for use in hotel breakfast buffets, accommodation room service, and at morning/afternoon teas for conferences and functions. ferrerofoodservice.com
Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au Melbourne Tea Festival
Sydney Craft Beer Week
29 May Held at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre, the event will comprise two key sections: the tea market, which will feature more than 50 stallholders selling and sampling tea and food, and the tea workshops, which will offer hands-on sessions and tea tastings held by some of Australia’s leading tea specialists. melbourneteafestival.com.au
22-30 October Sydney’s largest celebration of craft beer, Sydney Craft Beer Week is back for its sixth year in 2016. Last year saw 130 craft beer-related events held across 70 of Sydney’s leading venues and outdoor spaces, with highlights including Beergustations and Hair of the Dog Breakfasts, as well as tap takeovers and axe throwing tournaments. sydneycraftbeerweek.com
Fine Food 12-15 September Also taking place at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre, Fine Food will include live demonstrations, masterclasses and industry recognised competitions. Birubi Foods has created Highlights include the Nestle a range of gluten-free, Golden Chefs Hat competition, pre-cooked vegan burgers, the Talking Food Stage, the mini-burgers, sliders and bites Women in Foodservice charity under its Vegie Magic brand. event and the Official Great The products are distributed Aussie Pie and Sausage Roll frozen and are quick and easy competition. ElagPochetta Designs Flyer A4.pdf 1 10/09/2015 6:20 pm to reheat. finefoodaustralia.com.au vegiemagic.com.au
Game of Rhones Selected dates between 1 May and 9 July Game of Rhones is a celebration of the classic grape varieties of the Rhone Valley in France, including Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault as well as Viognier, Marsanne and Roussane. Hosting cities include Perth, Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney, Auckland and Wellington. gameofrhones.com.au
Vegie Magic
New releases from McLaren Vale Distilling To celebrate its first birthday, McLaren Vale Distilling has released four new gins, two liquors and a vodka. In addition to its latest Rare Dry Gin, the company has launched its Old Tom Gin, Sloe Gin and Oak Aged Gin, alongside the Settlers Vodka & Goji Berries, Settlers Maraschino Cherry Liquor and Settlers Coffee Liqueur. mclarenvaledistillingcompany.com.au
ElagPochetta Designs Flyer A4.pdf
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5 minutes with
Danielle Dixon – sous chef, Bucci Restaurant Her career might have kicked off on the TV screen, but this young chef has well and truly earned her place at one of Brisbane’s best Italian diners.
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K, let’s get this over with. Yes I was on MasterChef but before you roll your eyes, I am truly grateful for the experience – it opened my eyes to the inside world of hospitality. Despite what people think, there is a lot of stuff that goes on behind the scenes that actually exposes contestants to the reality of a career in this industry. MasterChef was the push I needed to leave my existing career and start a new one. I was the first contestant to put myself through an apprenticeship and become a qualified chef – something I am very proud of. Starting my apprenticeship at the age of 29 was tough. I had a mortgage and bills to pay. It also put a lot of strain on my relationships. There aren’t a lot of development programs/ scholarships for mature age apprentices; there’s a whole facet of training that isn’t available. Bucci diners are absolutely loving our new vegan dishes. We recently had a 3rd year apprentice start with us who happened to be vegan. He is very open to learning and very creative and so we gave him the option to design some dishes for our current menu.
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The walnut ragu is amazing. On the opposite side of that we've been featuring some great Australian pork as well. Our pork cheek maltagliati is to die for. The Brisbane dining scene is growing rapidly. I love the variety we have, and with our beautiful weather and access to incredible produce, it’s a great time to dine in Brisbane. I’m currently working on obtaining my Diploma in Hospitality. I love learning, so developing my knowledge and skills is something I’m always working on. I also have a couple of pop-up projects I’m working on with one of my CDPs. Stay tuned for more details. The dream for me is to lead my own kitchen team and create great innovative menus featuring the best produce I can. I want to build an inspiring kitchen environment that encourages people to learn and develop themselves. I wake up almost every day and am thankful that I get to have a job where I genuinely love what I do. I’d love others to have that same experience. n
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