Hospitality July 2016 by Hospitality Magazine

NO.726 JULY 2016

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NO.726 JULY 2016

Fatness

First

Why marbling is a must Slow food, fast service

NEIL PERRY'S FINE DINING APPROACH TO FAST CASUAL

One bite wonders

CANAPES THAT NEVER FAIL AT COCKTAIL PARTIES

- The food industry’s finest trade exhibition for 32 years -

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12 – 15 SEPTEMBER 2016 MELBOURNE CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE *Online registrations close 5pm AEST Friday 9 September 2016. There is a $30 door charge for those who have not registered online.

Editorial

t's official. Hospitality magazine is hosting its inaugural Restaurant Leaders Summit on 26 September, and we can't wait. We're well aware that there are a range of events out there for both the dining public and those behind the pass, but what we feel the industry is lacking – and what we're excited to provide – is a genuine opportunity for chefs and restaurateurs to gain practical, detailed and valuable advice on how they can improve their bottom line. The Restaurant Leaders Summit will go beyond food fads and celebrity chefs, examining the ins and outs of the foodservice industry. We'll talk about the best ways to tackle (or at least work around) the skills shortage; we'll get reliable and well researched insight into the purchasing habits of the fickle dining public; and will hear from a number of industry leaders, who will share details of both their successes and failures, no doubt giving attendees numerous nuggets of gold from which they can improve their own operation. We've already locked in a few keynote speakers, from all walks of the hospitality world. Nelly Robinson, owner of Sydney's nel. restaurant, which was literally an overnight success when it launched in 2015, will explain how he managed to earn the crown of Time Out Sydney's People's Choice award less than six months after swinging open the doors. We'll also hear from Thomas Pash, CEO of the Urban Purveyor Group, which boasts brands including Sake, Ananas and Fratelli Fresh. Pash will shed light on the group's aggressive expansion plans, and the best ways to achieve sustainable growth. It'll be an exciting, inspiring and insightful day for anyone looking to ensure the longevity of their restaurant. Take advantage of our early bird ticket prices at restaurantleaders.com.au

Danielle Bowling dbowling@intermedia.com.au

Cover image: Bone-in striploin from Jack's Creek Beef

July Contents 6

In focus

Openings

10 Flavour of the month

12 Trends 14 Fast casual 16 Best practice

18 Drinks 22 Cover story 26 Italian 30 Catering

12 22

32 Shelf space 33 Diary 34 5 minutes with...

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

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July 2016 Hospitality

in focus

The best in the world Osteria Francescana in Italy’s Modena has taken out the top spot at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards, overtaking last year’s first place-getter, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain. El Celler de Can Roca now holds second position, followed by Eleven Madison Park in third, Central in fourth, and Rene Redzepi’s Noma in fifth. Osteria Francescana, which opened in 1995 and is the brainchild of celebrated chef Massimo Bottura, was listed at number three in 2013 and 2014, and jumped up to number two in last year’s list before claiming the top position at the awards ceremony in New York on 15 June. Spain has the strongest presence on this year's World’s 50 Best list, with seven inclusions. Next is the USA with six, then Italy with four. 2016 saw a new addition to the awards’ portfolio: The Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award. In its inaugural year it was presented to Eleven Madison Park in New York, in recognition of the

Massimo Bottura

work of its front of house team. French patissier Pierre Hermé claimed the World’s Best Pastry Chef Award, while Alain Passard, who celebrates 30 years of his globally acclaimed Paris restaurant, Arpège (which is ranked at number 19), took out the Diners Club Lifetime

Achievement Award. Frenchborn chef Dominique Crenn, based in San Francisco, was recognised as The World’s Best Female Chef.

WHAT ABOUT OZ? The list, which actually comprises 100 restaurants, included three

from Australia: The Fink Group’s Quay (98, down from 58 last year), regional Victoria’s Brae (65, up from 87 last year) and Ben Shewry’s Attica, which came in at 33rd and, despite dropping down from 32nd in 2015, was named Best Restaurant in Australasia. A noticeable absence is Martin Benn and Vicki Wild’s Sepia in Sydney, which made its inaugural entry onto the list in 2015, when it was ranked 84th and listed as the ‘One to Watch.’ A number of Australian chefs currently operating businesses overseas also earned places on the prestigious list, including David Pynt whose Burnt Ends restaurant in Singapore claimed the 70th position; David Thomspon who tosses pans at Nahm in Bangkok (37th) and Brett Graham, head chef at The Ledbury in London (14th).

Plotting the world’s top 10 1. Osteria Francescana Modena, Italy 2. El Celler de Can Roca Girona, Spain 3. Eleven Madison Park New York, USA 4. Central Lima, Peru 5. Noma Copenhagen, Denmark 6. Mirazur Menton, France 7. Mugaritz San Sebastian, Spain 8. Narisawa Tokyo, Japan 9. Steirereck Vienna, Austria 10. Asador Etxebarri Axpe, Spain

Hospitality

July 2016

Openings

Some of the latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene. 1

Brady’s Fish

Surfers Paradise, QLD On offer is ethically sourced fish from Australia and New Zealand, alongside hand-cut chips and a selection of traditional English puddings.

Eat’aliano

Windsor, VIC The menu features Mediterranean flavours, with dishes including thinlysliced wagyu beef bresaola with crunchy celery, D.O.P grana padano cheese and truffle oil; and panzerotti fritti, a deep fried pizza dough stuffed with friarelli and mozzarella.

OTTO Brisbane

Brisbane, QLD The Fink Group’s first restaurant outside of NSW, OTTO Brisbane boasts a casual eatery and bar across the way from the restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and after-work aperitivi.

East London

Sydney, NSW Located on the upper level of The London Hotel in Paddington, East London offers a menu inspired by both Shanghai and Sichuan cuisines.

IMAGE CREDIT: NIKKI TO

8 Hospitality July 2016

Deus Bar & Kitchen

Sydney, NSW Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Deus Bar & Kitchen’s co-owner, Tom Walton, has created a menu that draws on Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours. The Camperdown site boasts floor to ceiling glass windows, an open kitchen and a concrete bar.

Honcho Noodle

Melbourne, VIC Chef Adam Liston has launched a three month pop-up noodle bar on Bourke Street while he awaits the opening of his permanent restaurant, Honcho, later this year.

The Dolphin Hotel

Sydney, NSW Restaurateur Maurice Terzini has given the Surry Hills institution a makeover, with the site now offering a dining room, a wine room and a public bar with an open air terrace. Icebergs’ chef Monty Koluldrovic has created a provenance-driven, modern ItaloAustralian menu.

Massi

Melbourne, VIC Massi offers morning coffee and cakes, lunch and aperitivo hour. It seats 50 and specialises in the simple regional dishes of Piedmont. July 2016 Hospitality 9

Flavour of the month From warming winter puddings and mulled wine to Moroccan tagines and Asian stocks, cinnamon is an essential inclusion on your spice shelf.

Cinnamon & cassia SOURCING There are two main varieties of cinnamon: Sri Lankan cinnamon and cassia cinnamon from Vietnam and Indonesia. Sri Lankan cinnamon is made by peeling the paper-thin underneath layer of bark, and rolling it into quills. Cassia bark is stripped from the whole tree and comes in many shapes and sizes, including small scrolls. It has thicker curls and is reddish-brown in colour.

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Both have a comforting aromatic fragrance and a sweet mellifluous taste that compliments sweet and savoury dishes alike. However, cinnamon is sweet and mild and has a delicate flavour, while cassia is strong and a little sharp with a warm background note.

FLAVOUR MATCHES Cinnamon and cassia are used in cakes, sweet pastries and biscuits, stewed fruits, curries, beverages such as chai tea and mulled wine, Moroccan tagines, Middle Eastern meat and legume dishes, Chinese master stocks, and preserved lemons and pickles. Pair with allspice, amchur, cardamom, chilli, coriander seed, cumin, fennel, ginger, kokam, liquorice, nutmeg, star anise, tamarind and turmeric.

TASTY APPLICATIONS Ground cinnamon and cassia are best when the spice needs to be mixed with other ingredients, such as in rubs and baked goods. n Whole quills or bark are added during cooking to infuse the flavour without leaving any muddy looking residue. Use in mulled n

Cinnamon quills have paper-thin layers of concentric curls and are light brown to pale tan.

Hospitality

July 2016

wine, spiced rice, infusing, as in panna cotta, and when pickling vegetables.

STORAGE All spices are best stored in a cool, dark place away from extremes of heat, light and humidity. Re-sealable zip-seal bags are good, as most of the air can be expelled before closing. Jars and canisters that are not full are stored with a lot of head-space of air. This allows the spice to oxidise and lose its flavour more rapidly. Ground spice will keep the best flavour for 12 to 18 months and whole spices, two to three years. Don’t store in the freezer as condensation forms when taken out, and this introduces moisture.

LOOK OUT FOR Cassia is often just labelled as ‘cinnamon’ with no indication that it is cassia. Understand the difference to get the best from each. Ground cinnamon quills are sometimes adulterated with the lower cost outer bark of the cinnamon tree. If your ground cinnamon is dark in colour and seems a bit gritty, it’s more than likely adulterated. n Credit: Ian Hemphill, Herbie's Spices, herbies.com.au

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Trends They’re ubiquitous in the States, and while bagels are yet to enjoy the same cult status here in Australia, they’re definitely on the rise.

Michael Shafran

Hospitality July 2016

Bagels “I

n New York, your Sundays are usually filled with fresh bagels, the New York Times, and coffee or orange juice. That’s just a classic Sunday morning,” said Michael Shafran, the Brooklyn-born founder of Sydney’s Brooklyn Boy Bagels. After coming to Australia in 2001, Shafran did his best to completely immerse himself in the Australian food culture, but after nine short months, he found himself craving fresh bagels – a craving he found impossible to satisfy. “I came to the conclusion that no one in Australia actually knew how to make a proper, traditional New York bagel,” he said.

After years of finessing his product, Brooklyn Boy Bagels came to fruition in 2013, offering bagels for both the retail and wholesale market. “There are three varieties of bagels: New York-style bagels, Montreal-style bagels and then there are disgusting bagels, which are the mass produced bagels,” Shafran said. “The main difference between New York and Montreal bagels is the baking and boiling process. Montreal bagels are made with a very traditional woodfired process whereas in New York, they’re baked on a stone in an oven. “New York bagels are boiled with things like malt or molasses in the water, and for

Montreal bagels they put honey in the water …Texture wise, New York bagels have a little more chew to them, whereas the Montreal bagels are a little lighter.” Brooklyn Boy Bagels, which Shafran said has doubled its business in the last year, specialises in the New York variety, staying as true to tradition as possible. “The best bagels are hand rolled rather than machine made,” he told Hospitality. “They’re always boiled. You can steam a bagel, but it only affects the outside of the bagel; it never affects the inside, whereas boiling changes the texture inside. They’re also given a long, cold fermentation which means that they’re getting natural flavour from enzymes. It’s also much healthier for you than quickly-made bread.” Fellow Sydney bagelry, Smoking Gun in Woolloomooloo, is all about the Montreal Smoking Gun in Woolloomooloo has a custom mage bagel oven

bagel, and founders Dave Young and Mark Treviranus have invested a lot of time and money in respecting the traditional baking process. “The original bagel shop in Montreal is called St-Viateur and we flew out their head baker. He was here for a month helping us with our recipe and then also working with us on our new oven,” Treviranus said. “You can’t just bake bagels in a pizza oven. It has to be of certain dimensions and structure in order to bake at the right temperature. So we flew a couple of Canadian stonemasons across who specialise in building bagel ovens. They built it by hand and it took them about three weeks.” While the baking process at Smoking Gun is a very traditional one, the business – which opened in May this year – is being a little more creative with how they’re served. Australians, unlike Americans or Canadians, prefer to sit

further expansion on the cards, the brand is a tribute to founder Jeremy Marmur’s Jewish heritage, delivering Polski bagels – distinctly European in style – in a range of flavours, with “a cheeky twist.” Marmur said Schmucks’ bagels are a mix between Montreal and New York varieties. “Instead of going for the normal, traditional toppings, we’ve tried to [incorporate] restaurant style ingredients into the bagels. So you’re not only getting a fast casual dining experience, you’re getting a quality product at the same time.” While the classic smoked salmon and cream cheese varieties are amongst the most popular at Schmucks, other top sellers include the Smokin’ Chicken which comprises smoked chicken, tarragon mayo, chicken breast crackers and pickled carrot, as well as the Vegemite bagel, which has the classic Australian condi-

Schmucks’ Vegemite bagel

and eat rather than eat on-the-run, and the offering at Woolloomooloo has been designed to cater to this. “When you go to a bagelry in Montreal, it’s like a bakery. Usually you can’t sit down, they don’t serve you a bagel, people are just going in and buying six or 12 or 24 bagels to take home. But we needed to do something that would work in this market, where people like to go out and have breakfast and brunch and lunch. And that’s why we’ve got Australian inspired toppings on our bagels,” Treviranus said. Examples include the scone roll with house-made rosella and riberry jam with Pepe Saya cream cheese, pickled rosella and lemon myrtle; and the Yidlife Crisis – woodfired chicken with charred avocado, kaffir lime and mountain pepper. Schmucks Bagels isn’t bound by tradition either. With two sites in Melbourne and

ment incorporated into the dough. “We’re also seeing a rise in sweet bagels, probably because of the explosion of doughnuts and how wide they’re going with their offering. We do a blueberry bagel, we’ve done a Cherry Ripe bagel, we’re looking at a range of different sweet bagels and I think it’s resonating with people quite well. I’d say that’ll be the next phase,” Marmur said. While Australians have always been familiar with what a bagel is, Marmur said now they’re really being celebrated, by consumers and artisanal producers alike. “People know what bagels are; they’re excited – you only have to look at social media. They used to be a novelty product but now I think they’re becoming a staple. We’re seeing customers coming in two or three times a week, when we initially thought they might treat themselves once a week. So that’s really encouraging.” n July 2016 Hospitality 13

fast casual

Slow food, fast service The fast casual and fine dining segments have more in common than most would think, said co-owner and executive chef of the Rockpool Group, Neil Perry.

At a glance

hen I saw places like Shake Shack and Smash Burger, or Huxtaburger here in Melbourne, I realised that people were actually willing to pay a premium for quality. I said to my business partner Trish, ‘we can play in this space and carry the DNA from our restaurants over: sustainability, ethical treatment of animals, and our connection to community,’” said Neil Perry. These qualities are in the Rockpool Group’s DNA; and now they’re also inherent at Burger Project – a fast casual concept, but with fine dining’s slow food philosophy. “I’ve loved burgers my whole life, and for the last 10 years we’ve been doing a gourmet burger at Rockpool Bar & Grill, so it’s really part of our make up. The tipping point was when I saw that we could have the same quality of meat as we do at Rockpool and hit a price point that people associate with everyday food.”

FAST FOOD WITH SLOW FOOD VALUES Perry said there are two things to keep in mind when playing in the fast casual space. 14

Hospitality July 2016

When was the business established? October 2014 Number of locations? Four: three in Sydney and one in Melbourne Number of staff members? 150 and growing Most valuable asset in the business? The team, as a whole Plans for 2016? Two confirmed openings in Sydney (Gateway Centre Circular Quay in September and Parramatta in November); two in Melbourne (Chadstone in September and Melbourne Central early next year), and one in Brisbane (South Bank in February 2017).

“We looked at what makes fast food efficient and affordable. There’s the efficiency of the line, where you need to produce and sell significant volumes per hour. And secondly, there’s the cost of the ingredients. At a lot of fast food joints the cost of the ingredients is really minimal. “We decided to take one part of it – the process – and look at how all these fast causal restaurants around the world were performing point of sale: queue, order, production of food within five minutes, order filled, move on. I think that we’ve come up with a really fantastic kitchen and packing scenario that works really well, so we can do 400-500 burgers an hour, which is incredible.” Quality of ingredients is where Perry saw a niche that Burger Project could fill.

“We have beautiful lettuces grown for us, and tomatoes, we make our own secret sauce, we pickle our own cucumbers, we get whole muscle meat, not trim, from Cape Grim. We hand cut the muscle meat, grind it and hand form it on the premises of each individual Burger Project. All we add is the Murray River Salt. That keeps us in complete control from the farm gate to the grill, which is unlike any other burger place in the whole world that I know of.” Perry’s love of burgers is part of a deeper nostalgia for the milk bars of old, which served true thick shakes, and the same DNA that goes into Burger Project burgers goes into the shakes. “The big thing is that we do soft serve but we make it with whole milk and proper flavourings, so valrhona chocolate, real

vanilla, strawberries, and dulce de leche. The syrups are made on premise,” said Perry.

EXPANSION PLANS With a store just opened in Melbourne and another in Sydney’s North Ryde, Burger Project will be expanding rapidly over the next sixth to 12 months, but Perry isn’t concerned about maintaining consistency. “We work with the same suppliers as we do in our restaurants so we have great relationships in place,” he said. “We learn from our restaurants. The restaurants are very structured and Burger Project needs to be very structured too. “Our expansion strategies are really driven by location, location, location. We’re very lucky because it’s the Rockpool Group that does Burger Project. Landlords have been incredibly embracing of the fact that we’re doing something of a great quality in a space that’s growing. So we’re getting lots of offers for great sites around Australia. We intend to choose wisely site by site, build partnerships with development groups and obviously build relationships with the communities we go into.” n

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best practice

Get real! Hospitality is all about making people feel comfortable, so smoke and mirrors will get you nowhere. It’s time to drop the act and be real with your customers – you’ll reap the rewards. By Ken Burgin.

he customer’s BS radar is on high alert – they’re swamped with hype, and can learn a lot about your business before they even visit. Have you Googled your name and business lately? Make those buzzwords ‘transparency’ and ‘integrity’ your marketing advantage – share real, honest information about the management team, staff and daily activities. Consumers find ‘behind the scenes’ of hospitality endlessly fascinating, so give them facts to feast on.

1. KEEP THE MENU HONEST Is ‘home made’ really made in someone’s home? How fresh is ‘fresh’ and can we trust the terms ‘organic’, ‘local’ and ‘made daily’? There are plenty of ways to write an enticing menu without overloading the adjectives. And reassure people that allergy-friendly items are the real deal.

2. UPGRADE THE 'ABOUT US' PAGE With real names of owners and managers, plus information about 16

Hospitality July 2016

how the business has developed – timelines can be interesting. So many of these pages are full of fluff, and when no names are mentioned, we wonder if the place is run by robots.

3. SHOW REAL FACES ON THE WEBSITE We all relate to ‘people like me’, not glamour models or people with perfect CVs. Take care if you’re promoting a celebrity chef – other staff are also doing great work. And be careful with stock photos – the photo libraries are handy but the images are everywhere. Taking decent digital photos is now a basic restaurant skill – a project for one of your team members, if you’re too busy.

4. SHARE VIDEOS OF DAILY LIFE Not big-budget productions, but a quick look at daily activities, for example introduce a new staff member, show the chef making pasta or the barista at work, the installation of the pizza oven. You can do videos of up to 60 seconds on Instagram and also share them on Facebook. A local

media student can make these look sharp in no time.

5. BE AUTHENTIC ON SOCIAL MEDIA An interesting Facebook page is essential, and it needs to be updated at least once a day with content that is informative, inspirational and sometimes entertaining. Include plenty of people shots, behind the scenes and produce stories – they’re always of interest. Twitter is popular with chefs and restaurateurs, and Snapchat should also be on your list.

website page, most comments are positive and you’ll be glad the negatives come directly to you. Most businesses make giving feedback too much of an effort – how is it at your place?

8. RESPOND TO ALL ONLINE FEEDBACK If it’s good, say ‘thanks for the very nice comments...’ If it’s critical, it still needs a response – ‘thanks for letting us know – please call or email so we can follow up.’ Unanswered online criticism looks bad, and makes it appear that you don't care.

6. SHARE A FEW MISTAKES

9.TALK WITH PRIDE ABOUT YOUR AREA

We all make them – the wine you chose that no-one would buy, a recent kitchen drama, the new stove that wouldn’t fit through the door. Now diners can relate to you! Facebook, Twitter or a blog can be a great way to share the daily bustle of hospitality life.

Places to visit, a popular park, places for children to play, recent events – share them on a web page with a map, and make sure staff know where customers can find an ATM, transport and parking. This can also be the basis for a good local knowledge training quiz for staff – they all need to get 100 percent. n

7. ACTIVELY ENCOURAGE FEEDBACK Whether it’s on Facebook, feedback cards or a special

Ken Burgin is owner of Proﬁtable Hospitality, proﬁtablehospitality.com

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drinks

The brewing basics A

If you’re in the crowded café market, you’d do well to consider adding alternative brewing methods to your menu. But which ones are worth a try, and how significant is the investment? Danielle Bowling finds out.

ustralians are amongst the most critical coffee drinkers in the world. Spoilt for choice, consumers don’t have to – and more often than not, simply wont – put up with a lacklustre brew. Coffee drinkers tend to be loyal; once they find an establishment that they like and which offers a consistent product, they stick with it. But that doesn’t mean café operators can rest on their laurels once they know their flat white is right. They need to work out ways to continue to engage with their patrons, and differentiate themselves from the countless other cafes offering an almost identical experience. And a growing number of them are turning to alternative brewing methods. Here, Hayley Palk, barista at Barista & Cook in Sydney’s Waterloo, dissects the most popular brewing methods, shedding light on the skill and equipment required for each.

1. ESPRESSO By far, espresso is the most popular brewing technique in Australia. It’s the bread and butter of hospitality’s coffee sector, generating countless flat whites, lattes, cappuccinos and short and long blacks every day. Description: “Espresso is highly pressurised, really finely ground coffee,” Palk said. “It’s generally a darker roast than the filter 18 Hospitality July 2016

brews and it produces a syrupy, full bodied drink that’s either served black or with milk.” At Barista & Cook, Palk said the flat white is the biggest seller, but according to research released by point of sale company, Square, 43 percent of Australians opt for a latte, followed by 20 percent for flat whites, 12 percent for cappuccinos, five percent for long blacks and four percent for espressos. Benefits: “Espresso-based beverages allow for greater variety. They work well black or with milk and with or without sugar,” she said. Espresso is suitable for decaf, single origin coffees and blends, and can use a wide range of milks including full-fat, skim, soy and almond. As it’s the most widely available brewing method, there are a lot of training opportunities on offer for cafes. Challenges: Customisation represents a key challenge for operators. “Learning how to do shots and handle the milk might seem simple at first, but the variables – like grind, dose and bean origin – make a big difference. Getting accurate training on how to get the best profile from the beans is quite an intricate process,” Palk said. She encourages operators to contact their coffee suppliers to ensure staff are up-tospeed on how to handle a range of beans and milks.

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In partnership with

drinks

Pour over is the best brewing method for showcasing beans' flavour profiles, said Palk.

“If you’ve got a high-grade coffee, it’s a great way to show it off” Equipment: “Commercial machines range from anywhere between $10,000 and $30,000, and then you have the grinders. For a basic setup, you’d have one grinder for the blend and one for the decaf, and now introducing single origin coffees is increasingly popular, so having a third grinder is ideal.”

2. POUR OVER The pour over technique is suitable for a slightly courser grind than that of espresso. The ideal grind is on the finer side of medium with a light to medium roast. It involves filtering coffee through paper filters, using water at about 96 degrees Celsius. The most popular examples of pour over are the V60 and Chemex. Description: “For pour over, it’s all about the ratio of volume to time. For V60, a general brewing ratio is about 16g of coffee to 250ml of water, with about 50ml initially poured in to give the coffee a chance to de-gas for about 45 seconds. This also allows the beans to be fully saturated for a moment. From there, you continually add the rest of the volume of water in even, concentric circles, so you’re agitating and saturating evenly 20 Hospitality July 2016

to produce a final extraction that’s not over-extracted,” Palk said. Pour overs are served black, and the standard size for a V60 is 250ml, while a Chemex is closer to 350ml. The V60 filter uses a single paper filter, whereas the Chemex filter has three layers, resulting in a finer product. Additionally, with V60, the barista pours the volume through the filter in circles, whereas with Chemex the extraction is achieved through time, not agitation. “After the coffee has been saturated and has had a chance to de-gas, you simply pour the remaining volume of water gently through the centre of the cone, so the coffee is no longer being agitated,” Palk said. The result of both techniques is a drink that’s closer to tea than a standard espresso because the brewing method doesn’t involve any pressure – just gravity and heat. Benefit: “Pour over is the best way to get an accurate representation of the beans and their flavour profiles. With the V60, the end product is a medium to full bodied cup, and because of the lighter roast you can get the subtleties of the origin. “With Chemex, the process is similar but there are three layers of filtration in the filter, so it’s finer. The final result is a lot cleaner. If you’ve got a particularly high-grade of coffee, it’s a great way to show it off, because you get those finer notes in the flavour,” she said. Equipment: The V60 comprises a cone that sits on top of a beaker-like container, as well as the paper filter. Operators will also need scales and a timer, and many choose to purchase a stand as well. The Chemex vessel is just one piece, which has an hourglass-like shape. As with V60, operators will also need scales and a timer. “The Chemex is a really beautiful looking piece – people are always asking about it. There’s generally a wooden rim around the centre, so it’s more of an arty looking piece,” Palk said. Challenges: Pour over is more time consuming than espresso, with a V60 coffee taking about 2.5 to three minutes, and Chemex taking about 3.5 minutes. And with the V60 technique, the barista is pouring the whole time, so it’s quite a labour intensive process, especially if you’re in a bustling café. Because the flavour clarity is much higher than with espresso, operators need to invest in quality coffee; it’s a far less forgiving process than other extraction techniques.

3. AEROPRESS The Aeropress, while not served at Barista & Cook, is an increasingly popular brewing method, thanks largely to its convenience and ease of use. Description: “The Aeropress is just one vessel. It’s got two tubes: one connects to the top of the other. In the bottom tube, you use a round paper filter. You put about 17g of ground coffee in with about 250ml of water, and you agitate it once or twice with a plastic stirrer. Then you let it sit for about 2.5 minutes. You attach the top of the other tube, flip it over and plunge it down,” Palk said. “So you’ve got the pressure and the heat, giving you a fuller bodied cup than your standard pour overs.” Benefit: It’s very convenient, can be used in the domestic market and is easy to master. It’s also a more palatable alternative to plunger brews, Palk said. “Once you plunge the Aeropress down, the beverage leaves the remaining coffee grind. With a plunger, it’s still sitting with the coffee,

even though the coffee is separated. That means it’s still extracting and you can get that bitter, acidic taste, whereas with Aeropress, because you’ve already released it, you wont get any over-extraction.” Equipment: The Aeropress device plus the paper filter. Challenges: Learning how to use an Aeropress properly takes time and practice. In Palk’s opinion, Aeropress doesn’t give the consumer the full experience of the coffee, even though it requires grind from higher quality beans than those commonly used for espresso coffee.

4. COLD DRIP Description: Cold drip is experiencing the strongest growth at the moment, Palk said. It’s particularly popular amongst health conscious consumers, as it’s easy to digest and has less caffeine than other coffee drinks. “Cold drip is filtered still water that drips very slowly through really coarsely ground, lightly roasted coffee. As it drips slowly, it extracts from the coffee but because there’s no heat and no pressure other than gravity, you don’t get the oils and the acids from the bean,” she said. “So it generally comes out really syrupy and quite sweet.” Cold drip can be served with milk, depending on where the coffee has been sourced from. “For example, Brazilian coffee is more chocolatey so it goes well with milk. But berry notes don’t go well with milk, so we don’t serve milk with the Ethiopian or the Kenyan beans,” Palk said. Benefit: A ready to drink beverage served over ice, cold drip is a great alternative for consumers in the warmer months. The device is also a visually attractive addition to your cafe and can work well as a conversation starter. It’s also a process that looks after itself once set up. It can be left overnight, unattended. Equipment: Cold drips are sold with three main components: the water chamber, coffee chamber and a bottle or jug to catch the cold drip. They are sold with a stand to keep everything vertical. Challenges: “It takes a long time. We do it between 12 and 16 hours, so it’s generally done overnight,” Palk said. “They’re also quite expensive and can be anywhere between $500 and $1,300, but it’s a one time buy.” The cold drip coffee can’t be served until the brewing process is complete, so once an establishment runs out of the brew, it’ll be at least another 12 or so hours before it can be served again. “We generally drip one overnight then one in the morning that drips throughout the day, so we can get two batches in a 24 hour period,” she said. The final product doesn’t keep for more than three or four days, so it can’t be prepared too far in advance. n July 2016 Hospitality 21

Jack’s Creek Black Angus cube roll MB3+

22 Hospitality July 2016

protein

Fat is flavour No wonder Australians’ penchant for meat is unwavering. We have access to the world’s highest quality, safest and tastiest proteins. By Madeline Woolway.

BEEF The sought after Wagyu breed, famous for its finely marbled fat and association with the Japanese city of Kobe, has been bred in Australia for less than three decades, but Australian producer, Jack’s Creek, can already claim the title of World’s Best Steak 2015 for their F2 450+ days grain fed Wagyu. “We started running cattle, Santa Gertrudis and Hereford in 1983 and then I got on to Angus. When carting the cattle to feedlots I used to hear about cattle being fed for 300 days for the Japanese market; they called it Wagyu. But I found out you couldn’t get the breed outside of Japan,” said David Warmoll, founder of Jack’s Creek, which is situated in northern NSW. “One day my brother, Phillip, was reading Time magazine and it said there were a couple at the University of Texas. We decided to have a go, rung up to get some and found out that two or three blokes in Australia had a few already. So I got some semen off Wally Ray up in Queensland and got started.” That was the early 90s, but it took some time before the Warmoll brothers were able to sell Wagyu meat.

MAKING MARBLE Producing high quality, marbled beef isn’t just a matter of having the right cow. “Wagyu is more than a breed, it’s a lifecycle,” said David’s nephew, and managing director of Jack’s Creek, Patrick Warmoll. “In essence, an animal is the product of what it eats and its lifestyle.” This philosophy dictates the feeding program and lifestyle of Jack’s Creek cattle. “We wrap them up in wool. We feed them for the longest time, and they’re relatively young animals that have had a stress-free life. The grain finishing at the end makes a big difference. “Animals that are fed on grain have a sweeter flavour that is more consistent across the animals because they’re living in a controlled environment. Feedlots can control energy and protein intakes and the grains provide nutrition – all of that affects the flavour,” said Patrick. “Grass fed animas have a nutty flavour, or beefier flavour, but it’s very inconsistent because even in the same geographical area you have different grasses, which will result in

different flavours. It’s not a bad flavour, it’s just less consistent.” While the Wagyu breed is predisposed to lay intramuscular fat, it’s farming techniques that determine whether the animals develop their iconic marbling. “We had to get to the point where we understood what was required [when breeding the animals]. To begin with, we exported the males live to Japan, and we rebred the females. Eventually we stopped exporting and started feeding. “Wagyu are slower growing than other breeds. They tend to put fat in their muscle, instead of laying it on their back. It’s that fat in the muscle, which we call marbling, that gives flavour. It has a different melting point, and it’s a different sort of fat to what lays on the outside of the animal. It delivers some of the tenderness, but most of the tenderness is acquired by being in the feedlot, being inactive and relaxed,” said David. “You can fast feed them, but if you do, you will lay fat down on the outside of the

animal. Gradually feeding them distributes the marbling,” he said. Despite its current standing as a delicacy, buyers in the West were originally apprehensive about what the public would think when they saw all the fat. But, as David told Hospitality, “Without some fat, you will not have flavour.”

GRADING MARBLE “We have four beef categories. Our entry-level Wagyu is the F1. It’s 50 percent Wagyu crossed with another breed – in our case we only cross with Black Angus, and we have that independently verified by a third party. Those cattle are grain fed for 300 days,” said Patrick. “Then we have our 450 day grain fed F2+ Wagyu, which is minimum 75 percent Wagyu. It has a higher marble score, and targets the higher end teppanyaki, yakiniku restaurant trade, as well as the white table cloth trade. “Our Angus is similar. We have an entry level, which is a 120 day grain fed program, with a minimum 75 percent Angus breed content. Then we have 150 day, 100 percent Black Angus.”

“Without some fat, you will not have flavour”

LuMi head chef, Federico Zanellato, preparing Jack’s Creek Black Angus beef tartare

July 2016 Hospitality 23

protein

PORK

Pork belly by chef Victor Liong

“It’s become a staple, to the point where it’s now very odd to not see pork on a menu,” Mitch Edwards, marketing manager at Australian Pork, told Hospitality. “There are always different cuts on offer somewhere. “I think because pork, from cut to cut, can be totally different; we’re seeing more exploration. Some cuts have a more robust flavour coming from the fat, while leaner cuts can have a more delicate flavour.” The variety of cuts allows pork to sit comfortably across dining levels. “Some cuts, like a pork cutlet, tend to sit on pub and club menus, because it’s like a steak, while other cuts, like the fillet, which is delicate and textural, are more common on degustation menus,” said Edwards. While prime cuts have been a fixture on foodservice menus for years, less common cuts like pork jowl, which currently features on the menu at Sydney’s Quay restaurant, are starting to attract attention. “There’s a real desire for the rustic cuts. Chefs are really enjoying the nose to tail movement and getting more creative, so there’s a lot of interest in odd cuts, and consumers are really enjoying the full flavours. “This takes pressure off prime cuts, so now they’re cheaper than they used to be, which gives the casual segment an opportunity to use things like the pork belly.”

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Along with the burgeoning interest in secondary cuts, there’s also growing enthusiasm for free range pork and rare breeds. “There are some very interesting breeds and free range practices going on, and they’re producing some amazing products. It’s a combination of all things. It’s not just the

breed; it’s the feed and the environment. With free range you have to be equipped for it, to make sure the pigs are safe and have a regulated diet,” said Edwards. “Then there are some of the rare breeds that grow much slower, like Berkshire pigs. They lay more intramuscular fat so there is a creamy butteriness to the meat, but they come at a premium cost, because when the pig grows slower, they cost the farmer more feed and more time getting to market. “Those products are great, but you have to be mindful that not everyone lives in the eastern suburbs of Sydney. We need to deliver the best product we can but still offer some prices that don’t exclude big parts of the population. It’s all about having something for everyone.”

TRACING SUCCESS “When it comes to pork, or any protein, we have the most disease-free agricultural industry in the world. We have traceability so that if there is ever a reason for recall we can trace back to the farm, and in many cases to individual animals,” said Edwards. Traceability programs also have a hand in helping chefs to capitalise on the increasing interest in provenance. “The more the general public gets excited about food, the more they want to know. The fact that we have great traceability means chefs can be better equipped with knowledge to share with their patrons,” Edwards said. It’s important to remember that, while all raw pork sold in Australia is produced locally, smallgoods aren’t subject to the same conditions. “When it comes to smallgoods like bacon and ham, 72 percent are made from imported products. If you don’t see the pink Australian Pork label, or a Product of Australia label, then be confident that you aren’t getting an Australian product,” said Edwards. Using Australian pork, and knowing the product is disease-free, means there is more freedom for chefs when preparing raw products. “You can treat pork the same way you would beef, you don’t need to overcook it,” he said. “The more pork is served the way it’s best eaten, the more people will realise it’s safe. Chefs have, and can continue to influence the market.” n

A leaner option Native game is fast becoming a popular option for those looking to put a leaner alternative protein on their menu. “Wallaby is a very sweet meat with exceptionally fine texture. From a game meat point of view, it's a lot more forgiving. You can comfortably take it through to medium rare, you don’t need to leave it as blue as people tend to with kangaroo or venison,” said John Kelly, founder and owner of Lenah Meats in Tasmania. “It’s all wild harvested by licensed harvesters, approved by the government authority. They harvest in the field, then the wallabies come to us and we process them as you would cattle,” Kelly told Hospitality. “It’s only legal to harvest them in Tasmania. “I have three licensed meat inspectors,

Hospitality July 2016

including myself, and we inspect the meat for any disease conditions before it gets boned out. “We do a whole range of things to maximise the quality of the product. We age the animals, then process and portion

our products within 40 gram weight ranges, then give them three weeks pack age before they leave us.” Although wallaby might seem unfamiliar, a lot of the terminology and techniques that chefs are used to can be applied. “There’s porterhouse, topside, rumps, striploin and shanks. The shanks are a great piece of meat, and you can cook it exactly like a lamb shank,” said Kelly. “People are attracted to wallaby for a whole range of reasons. It has less than two percent fat, it’s ethical – the land wants to give it to us – and wallabies don’t emit methane. But, at the end of the day, people eat things because they’re pleasant to eat.” Wallaby is currently available on about 100 menus across Tasmanian, but Lenah also sends meat as far afield as Cairns and Darwin.

From across the country, these emerging and established PorkStar chefs encompass the diverse Australian culinary landscape. The PorkStar 11 are leaders, not followers, and share a love of the magical beast, the pig. Be a PorkStar and get some pork on your menu. www.porkstar.com.au

italian

Exploring authenticity Italian food is many things to many people, but the resonating theme is authenticity. By Madeline Woolway.

“I

talian is a fickle thing. If you make pasta marinara, automatically a lot of people are going to say ‘well my grandma’s recipe was better’. There is a cultural and very deeply personal connection to that type of food,” said Martin Heierling, group culinary director of Urban Purveyor Group (UPG), which acquired popular Italian dining brand, Fratelli Fresh, earlier this year. This is why, despite its apparent simplicity, Italian cuisine has remained at the epicenter of Australian dining despite increased competition from other international cuisines. “Everyone grows up with a bit of Italian food around them at some point, so there is a connection and expectation based on what you’ve grown up with. People will have opinions. Many may love a particular ragù, but maybe I won’t. It doesn’t mean it’s not good, it just means it’s not what I like based on my expectations,” Heierling told Hospitality. “When it’s done authentically, Australian people really appreciate the simplicity and the quality of produce,” said Renata Roberts, owner of Pizzeria Violetta and Sichuan Bang Bang in Brisbane. Authenticity is a complicated concept, with as many interpretations as there are variations of ragù. Italian food, however, is one of the most exactingly controlled cuisines. There are associations dedicated to the protection of Italy’s gastronomic culture and traditions, whose raison d’être is to extol historical authenticity, and their passion is infectious. “My philosophy has always been really simple. If you can dedicate your product or your offering to being really authentic, then it speaks for itself and you can build a business model from that. I’ve always been of the mind that authenticity takes precedence over everything,” Roberts said.

Hospitality July 2016

FREEDOM IN RESTRAINT While restrictions might seem limiting, they can help restaurateurs regulate diner expectations. “Italian food is popular generally because people understand it and are comfortable with it,” said Rod Micallef, owner and operator of Zonzo Estate winery in Victoria’s Yarra Valley. The existence of organisations dedicated to the protection of traditional Italian recipes also means that many consumers come to the table educated. “Most Australians are very aware of traditional Italian food. They know pasta should be al dente and they know Napoli pizzas should be a bit charred on the base,” said Roberts. “It was certainly more challenging introducing Sichuan cuisine than it was introducing Italian.” Heierling said that although Italian is tried and bastardised often, it’s “one of those simple cuisines that never goes out of style. “Fratelli Fresh has captured that honesty about Italian food; it’s not trying to be anything that it’s not. It’s very simple, straightforward, with seasonal ingredients that are well-cooked, well-seasoned and presented simply,” he said. “This is what resonates with the customer base.”

UNKNOWN TRADITIONS “Some of our dishes do require explaining. We have a dish called Bagna Cauda, which is from the north of Italy,

near Piedmont. It’s a warm dip that you have with vegetables. It’s made from anchovies, butter and capers; it’s very salty and thick. Even though it’s a staple in northern Italy, it wasn’t really known by our customers,” said Roberts. While it does take a bit of time and knowledgeable staff, taking risks with lesser known dishes is worth it in the long run. “There’s one pizza we’re doing at the moment, called pizze con rape [rah-peh], with turnip leaves. People aren’t sure about it, even though we put a translation on the menu,” said Micallef. “But it’s boring just serving dishes that everyone knows; it’s nice if they can enjoy something new – that’s what keeps them coming back – so I try to train the staff to explain it well and sell it.”

INGREDIENTS Pulling off the simplicity of Italian cuisine requires rigour and finesse. Realising the vision of preparing classic Italian food has meant paying close attention to ingredients and processes, said Roberts. Importing products like San Marzano tomatoes and 00 flour from Italy is a necessary cost, she added, if the goal is authentic Neapolitan pizza that adheres to the guidelines of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. While she feels that the high cost of importing core ingredients from Italy is

“I’ve always been of the mind that authenticity takes precedence over everything.”

July 2016 Hospitality 27

italian

Macaroni, pig's head, egg yolk from acme

Breaking expectations Mitch Orr, co-owner and head chef at acme in Sydney’s Rushcutters Bay, takes a different approach to plating up pasta. “We wanted to serve pasta more in the style of Chinatown, rather than an Italian restaurant,” he said.

Zonzo Estate in the Yarra Valley

justifiable, it is possible to source high quality produce closer to home without compromising on authenticity. “Our peppers are from Montville, the wild boar in our ragù is from Toowoomba, and a lot of the cold meats and charcuterie are from a small company just over the border near Byron Bay called Salumi. And all the herbs are from my mum's garden, just down the road,” said Roberts. Micallef takes a similar approach, mixing local products with imported ones. “One of the pleasures we get is making traditional Italian meals with both local and imported produce. We grow some vegetables and herbs onsite, and we source a lot of produce from local farmers,” he said. “But then we use imported cheeses to give it that authentic touch.”

PROCESS “We just introduced another pizza concept at the Walsh Bay restaurant and right away we jumped [to having] 35–40 percent of sales coming from pizza. Being able to see artistry in action is a key component of the Fratelli brand,” said Heierling. Integrity is important as Fratelli introduces a new pizza concept, which bends the bounds of tradition, without breaking authenticity. “We’ll be giving consumers the ability to choose what goes on their pizza and build their own, without taking away that integrity,” said Heierling. “You’ll see a pizza maker in front of you who knows how to stretch the dough; it’s not machine made, it’s still handmade and the artistry of that means the integrity is there. It’s exciting. It gives credibility to the process of doing honest and real food. But by allowing the customer to participate, you reduce the risk of them not being satisfied.” ■

While acme doesn’t tout itself as an Italian restaurant – Orr said he has no business defining Italian food – it’s known for its experimental pasta dishes. “Pasta is what I’ve built a reputation for,” Orr told Hospitality. “We don’t cook Italian food. We do, however, use a lot of classic Italian flavours as a jumping off point for the dishes we create. “Pasta is basically noodles, so why can’t it go with Asian leaning flavours? If you break down a lot of what we do, it’s tried and true Italian, just looked at through a different lens. “Our food takes influences from everywhere: the seasons, KFC, Chinatown, cucina povera and the most progressive restaurants.” Although the flavours might break expectations, Orr still takes some cues from tradition. “All the pastas are made traditionally, though we often mess with the flavours,” Orr said. “The shape of the pasta is important, 100 percent. We choose the shape or style of pasta to match with the sauce and garnish that we serve with it. “The fact that pasta and noodles are basically sisters does help when using ingredients that are less traditional. Black garlic and burnt chilli linguine is really just a spin on aglio olio e pepperoncini – a super common pasta dish where the sauce is oil, garlic and chilli.” Wisdom gleaned from touring Sydney’s dining circuit, as well as completing a stage at the famously rule-breaking Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy – recently crowned the World’s Best Restaurant – informs the acme menu, more than sticking to tradition. “Dan Puskas [of Sixpenny] gave me some advice years ago: think about three to four elements of flavour and how they work together. Don’t cloud them or over complicate it. That’s something I always stick to. We often look to traditional dishes, not just Italian, as points of inspiration. Whether it is a flavour profile or a way to reinvent a dish in the acme style. That’s where my training, experiences and preferences really come into play,” said Orr. Acme is clearly not traditional Italian, but it is authentic in its commitment to the personal expression of a historically determined national cuisine.

Hospitality July 2016

Ultimo Catering's pancetta bound chicken ballotine, Pink Lady apple gel, micro cilantro

One bite wonders Bye bye arancini balls; hello tempura nori. Chefs around Australia are making the most of the public’s growing appetite for cocktail-style events, creating canapés that really pack a punch. By Danielle Bowling.

t’s most certainly a first world problem, but one of the biggest challenges for caterers is ensuring their guests can both eat and sip from their Champagne flute with ease. We’ve all been there – starving at a cocktail event, but you turn down the oversized slider, as delicious as it looks, and then let the Chinese takeaway box of fried rice go past, simply because, well, it’s been a long week and you don’t want to part with your bubbles. Over the past few years, the events industry in Australia has witnessed a massive shift in interest from the formal three course sit down function, to the more casual and interactive stand up event. Menus have had to change accordingly; the challenge being squeezing as much intrigue and flavour into just a couple of bites, so guests aren’t forced to choose between their drink or their dinner. “You want to make sure that there’s nothing dripping down the guest’s face. Guests don’t want it to be too greasy; they want to keep their hands clean,” said Michael Mousseau, executive chef at Sydney’s Four Seasons. “At a stand up event, when people are trying to talk to others and be presentable, they want to be able to eat things with one bite.” Mousseau said providing catering for cocktail-style events is more labour intensive than other formats, but the key is in the preparation. “Canapes are time consuming, but generally, there’s a lot that can be done in advance as opposed to during the execution, at the time

30 Hospitality July 2016

of the event. It’s really about the mise en place – so you get ahead. One chef might be doing three or four canapés, but it might take them a little bit longer because the attention to detail needs to be there. Each one has to be identical. “You’re putting together a little bite for one person and all up you might be doing 12 different kinds for 500 or 600 people. You want to make sure that each bite counts because the guests might only be having eight to 12 bites. You want them to be memorable,” he said.

CREATIVE CANAPÉS Matt Leahy, head chef at Ultimo Catering in Perth agrees that a lot of the work for cocktail style events can be done in advance, adding that today’s chefs have access to a huge range of technologies and techniques that can help them to create canapés that pack a punch in one or two bites. “We have so many techniques on hand now. Fluid jelly is an awesome example. You can get that flavour injection that you want on the dish, without it taking up too much space. If you do an apple fluid jelly, you don’t have to put a chunk of apple on there. Or you could go another way and dehydrate the apple and make an apple dust that’s intense in flavour. We’ve got the ability to make more intricate canapés now,” Leahy said. To help ensure minimal fuss and maximum taste, Leahy said it’s important for chefs to think outside the square when it comes to what the canapé is served in or on. Where possible, make it edible.

“It comes down to creativity. What can do use as the base of these canapés that’s new? We use everything from puff pastry to pumpernickel, to little charcoal cups and rice crackers. Anything to make it easier for the guest and for it to be beautiful, new and fresh. “For example, I’ve come up with this chargrilled Brussels sprout for winter, that comes with crispy pancetta and a maple fluid gel. So you get this bitterness from the Brussels sprout, and then the maple sweetness, and then we put some popping candy on it as a surprise. It’s different, but it’s an exciting one for winter,” he said. Over in Canberra, Broadbean Catering’s executive chef, Vanessa Broadfoot, said organisers of cocktail events should keep the number of canapés that are served on things like spoons or skewers to a minimum. “If a guest is standing there with a skewer in their hand and they don’t know what to do with it, then that’s not good. Keep that in mind if you’re going to serve things with sticks or bones or on spoons … As they’re going out, make sure the staff know they have to go around and clean up after the canapés. But at a cocktail party, only one or two items should be like that. We would try to make sure that there’s nothing left over for the rest of them,” she said. Popular examples from Ultimo Catering’s menu include a gruyere and caramelised onion tartlet; the classic blini with smoked salmon or gravlax; a black sesame tartlet with whipped feta and pear chutney; a chorizo sausage roll

catering

Left: Blue ﬁn tuna ceviche, squid ink nori, sesame and chive from Four Seasons Right: Lobster mini taco, avocado and jalapeno from Four Seasons Bottom left: Hot and sour prawns from Broadbean Catering Bottom right: Ultimo Catering's Moroccan spiced lamb kofta, capsicum reduction and summer grigio dressing

100% NATURAL REDUCED STOCK Ready to use stock to take the pressure off when the heat is on

with lime aioli; and crumbed haloumi with a tomato and chilli jam. For longer cocktail events, weddings, and those running over dinner time, a few more substantial canapés are a good idea. Broadfoot recommends salt and pepper calamari served in a cone, zucchini flowers and little pork belly baos. A clever way to approach canapés is to look at what’s trending in the broader foodservice market, and try to concentrate the same concept and flavours in a canapé, she said “Anything that’s popular at dinner in a larger size – if you can get that flavour and do it in a canapé, and get it to look really great on a plate, then people will love it. “At the moment, fried chicken is really popular. So we do a little wing drumstick where we pull [the skin] over, marinate it in buttermilk to tenderise it, then coat it in spices and deep fry it until it’s crunchy and golden; so it’s like southern fried chicken. It’s a little chicken lollipop that people can hold. It’s a couple of bites, and it just packs a lot of flavour.”

TRENDS TO TAKE NOTE OF The deep fryer has often been the go-to piece of equipment for chefs cooking for crowds, but the tides have turned and diners are now after something a little fresher, said Ultimo Catering’s Matt Leahy.

“There was a lean towards party pies and arancini balls and croquettes and samosas, but they’re just too greasy. There is a place for them, you just have to balance them and be smart with the sauce or the presentation. So we do a lamb kofta and there’s quite a bit of grease in it, but we shape it around a cinnamon quill and then we decorate the platters with capsicum coulis and greens. “Colour has become a lot more important. For a long time people were deep frying so it was all greys and browns, but I think there are a lot more intelligent, smarter chefs out there with a lot more creativity and a lot more skill.” Four Seasons’ Michael Mousseau agrees, adding that he’s seeing a growing interest in meatfree canapés. “They’re becoming more and more popular,” he said. “A couple of good ones we’ve done recently are a little crab and avocado taco, and a pizza fritti with cured tomato, artichoke mousse, shaved parmesan, truffle and basil, so it’s a really flavourful bite. We’ve also done tempura nori with kingfish tartare on top, which is really nice. We add squid ink to the nori so it comes up black and we serve that with a little bit of chilli,” he said. “We’re just trying to get away from the classic potato, meat and veg, and give people more of an experience with the presentation and the produce; just as we would with one of our restaurants.” ■

“If a guest is standing there with a skewer in their hand and they don’t know what to do with it, then that’s not good.”

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shelf space

New from Jim Beam Volume catering made easy

The HUG range of pastry cases includes products for both savoury and sweet applications – ideal for hors d’ouevres, petit fours and finger foods. Each pastry case is glazed on the inside with non hydrogenated vegetable oil to prevent moisture migration from your fill into the pastry. This enables the cases to hold their integrity for much longer than conventional frozen pastry. dalya.com.au

Jim Beam Double Oak is a take on Kentucky Straight Bourbon, made by maturing Jim Beam’s whiskey in two American oak barrels. Available in Australia from 12 July, it has an ABV of 43 percent and is presented in a new bottle with unique contours, glass embossing and engraving as well as textured labelling and foiling. jimbeam.com

Magic Meatballs

Available in two flavours, grass fed beef with mushroom and free range chicken with Thai herbs, Magic Meatballs are prepared using sautéed fresh herbs and vegetables to create a wholesome flavour base. They're then par cooked and frozen. Magic Meatballs are available in bulk for use in restaurants, health facilities and cafés as an alternative to chicken nuggets on the children’s menu. magicmeatballs.com.au

Flavour trends inspire new condiments range

New Zealand brand F. Whitlock & Sons has unveiled a new range of condiments, developed by Cerebos Australia corporate chef, Adam Moore. The range includes a caramelised onion relish; peach, mango and apricot chutney; beetroot and balsamic relish; and a tomato and smoky chipotle relish. The range comes in 2 litre containers with a wide mouth allowing easy access to the last spoonful and easygrip handle for greater pouring control. cerebos.com.au 32

Hospitality July 2016

diary

For the diary Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitality magazine.com.au

Events Uncovered 12 and 19 July Events Uncovered connects people with venue and supplier for their next Christmas party, product launch or important event, whether it be an intimate lunch or a grand celebration. A fun and innovative event showcase, Events Uncovered visitors can network with industry members while learning all about the latest products and spaces available for events. Participating suppliers range from cocktail specialists and 3D designers to stylists and AV visionaries. eventsuncovered.com.au

specialists from across Australia. Gourmet food and tea stalls, arts and fashion markets and live entertainment come together with leading coffee producers for a one day celebration by the Sydney harbour. Over 100,000 visitors are expected to visit the festival this year, which will boast over 60 stalls. therocks.com

Fine Food 12 – 15 September This year taking place at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre, Fine Food will include live demonstrations, masterclasses and industry recognised competitions. Highlights include the Nestle Golden Chefs Hat competition, the Talking Food Stage, the Women in Foodservice charity event and the Official Great Aussie Pie and Sausage Roll competition. finefoodaustralia.com.au

Sydney Craft Beer Week

Taste of Tasmania

The Australian Drinks Festival

Sydney Craft Beer Week

16 – 17 July The Australian Drinks Festival (formerly Top Shelf) combines educational presentations with free sampling of premium beers, wines and spirits. In addition, visitors will be able to enjoy a range of foods, soft drinks and cocktails created by the best bartenders in the country. Held at The Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton, this year’s event boasts an impressive lineup of guest speakers who will bring the world of fine drink to life with around 40 free demonstrations and seminars. australiandrinksfestival.com.au

The Rocks Aroma Festival 24 July Now in its 19th year, The Rocks Aroma Festival attracts boutique roasters and coffee

22 – 30 October Sydney’s largest celebration of craft beer, Sydney Craft Beer Week is back for its sixth year in 2016. Last year saw 130 craft beer-related events held across 70 of Sydney’s leading venues and outdoor spaces, with highlights including Beergustations and Hair of the Dog Breakfasts, as well as tap takeovers and axe throwing tournaments. sydneycraftbeerweek.com

100% NATURAL REDUCED STOCK Clean Label Shelf Stable & Ready to Use Scratch Made Consistent Quality

Taste of Tasmania 28 December, 2016 – 3 January, 2017 The Taste of Tasmania is produced and presented by the City of Hobart, with the aim of presenting a memorable event that showcases some of the best food and beverages Tasmania has to offer. The annual event is hosted along the River Derwent, Hobart’s historic wharves and Salamanca Place, with stallholders including seafood, cheese and berry suppliers, as well as beer, wine and cider producers. thetasteoftasmania.com.au

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5 minutes with...

Robert Molines owner, Bistro Molines

Regarded as the Godfather of Hunter Valley dining, Robert Molines has been tossing pans for some 50 years. I started my apprenticeship in late 1965 in Menton, south of France. I arrived in Australia in 1968 and my wife Sally and I came to the Hunter Valley in 1973 to escape the city life, live in the country and eventually have a family with space on a farm. We then started our very first restaurant, Happy Valley and in 2008 we moved to Tallavera Grove Vineyard and started Bistro Molines. I’ve had many special moments in my career but particularly a dinner with my friend and mentor, the late Len Evans. He always hosted special elite dinners called ‘The Single Bottle Wine Club’ with the likes of James Halliday. One year, we had various wines from different brackets of Chateau Latour, Montrachet, Yquem. There was a double magnum of an 1865 Chateau Lafitte. The dinner was a success and the wines were out of this world. The Lafitte cost $75,000. The biggest change that I’ve witnessed in the hospitality sector would have to be in relation to the food. It’s become overly decorative with too many flowers and sometimes no substance. I know that cuisines are fashion34

Hospitality July 2016

able, but people eventually go back to look for basics and flavours.

ing, innovative, and tasty menu with minimum fuss. Each dish was so memorable.

The hardest thing about running a restaurant is maintaining your standards while working to get better, and at the same time negotiating finances, recruitment and equipment failures. And then trying to make sure the guests turn up for their booking.

The most valuable lesson I have learnt as a restaurateur is to not lose your cool and to find the appropriate time to rectify a less than ideal situation, by providing constructive feedback to everyone involved and making sure they learn from the experience.

One of my favourite dining experiences was at The Ledbury in London – and not because we know Brett Graham. The degustation Sally and I had there was certainly the most inspir-

At the end of the day I like to quickly catch up with emails so I can have a Chardonnay, relax, let Sally manage dinner, watch the news, eat together and then enjoy a glass of Pinot. ■

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