Cruise travel 2016

•

SHIPS

•

PORTS

•

SCHEDULES

•

PRICES

SA C VV RU Y ISE ® SH GU OP IDE PI NG

NOV. / DEC. 2016 SHIP SHIP OF OF THE THE MONTH MONTH

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

KONINGSDAM A Symphony For The Senses

PORT PORT OF OF THE THE MONTH MONTH

BERGEN Gateway To Norway’s Fjords CRUISE CRUISE OF OF THE THE MONTH MONTH

BLUE DANUBE Europe’s “River Of Kings” NEW NEW SHIP SHIP REVIEW REVIEW

HARMONY OF THE SEAS The World’s Largest Cruise Liner

Caño Negro Wildlife Jungle Cruise

Arenal Volcano Hot Springs Leatherback Turtle National Park Hanging Bridges Nesting Beaches Guanacaste J.W. Marriott Resort

Fortuna Coffee Plantation Cloud Forest Poás Volcano

Manuel Antonio Sunset

COSTA RICA San José

Monteverde Cooperative

Aerial Tram Dry Tropical Forest

Manuel Antonio Park Tarcoles River Cruise Birdwatching; Crocodile Spotting Cruise Daystop

Overnight

Rainforest Hike

Two Nights

Keel-billed Toucan

Birdwatching

Caño Negro

Your Year to Go!—Come Visit Costa Rica with Caravan; Call Now for Choice Dates; Order Your FREE 24-Page Brochure Today

¡Costa Rica Natural Paradise! 8-Day Tour $1195 Caravan makes it so easy—and so affordable—for you to visit Costa Rica.

Your Costa Rica tour is all-inclusive with all meals, all hotels, all activities, Chestnut-mandibled a great itinerary, Toucan all airport transfers, and all transportation and excursions in Costa Rica. A professional Tour Director accompanies you from start to finish.

You see more on a Caravan Tour with more actual visits and more included features! See exotic birds and wildlife, hike jungle rainforests, view volcanoes, soak in hot springs, cruise through biological reserves and relax on tropical ocean beaches.

All hotels were excellent! “ There is no way I would have stayed in such superior and sophisticated hotels for the price I paid.

—Client, Salinas, California

”

—America’s Quality Tour tax, fees extra Company Since 1952

Enjoy the Spectacular Beach Coves of Manuel Antonio National Park with Caravan

Join the smart shoppers & experienced travelers who rely on Caravan to handle all the details while you and your family enjoy a well-earned, worry-free vacation.

Guatemala with Tikal 10 days Costa Rica 8 days Panama & Canal Cruise 8 days Nova Scotia, P.E.I. 10 days Canadian Rockies 9 days Grand Canyon, Zion 8 days California Coast, Yosemite 8 days Mount Rushmore 8 days New England, Fall Colors 8 days

$1295 $1195 $1195 $1395 $1595 $1395 $1495 $1295 $1295

Brilliant, Affordable Pricing “ ” —Arthur Frommer, Travel Editor

Trust Caravan's 64 years of experience with bus tours of quality and value.

Call now for choice dates: 1-800-Caravan.

Tour details at Caravan.com.

¡Hasta la vista!—Caravan; America's Quality Tour Company Since 1952

AMERICAS

®

contents November/December 2016 Volume 38, Number 3

Bergen Tourist Board/Per Elde

FEATURES PORT OF THE MONTH

6 Bergen Historic city is the gateway to the Norwegian fjords.

CRUISE GUIDE

12 Savvy Souvenir Shopping

The wharf in Bergen’s historic Bryggen is filled with popular bars and cafes.

A little forethought makes this pastime more rewarding.

NEW SHIP REVIEW

16 Harmony Of The Seas Royal Caribbean debuts the world’s largest cruise liner.

CRUISE PIONEER

22 Sitmar Cruises Well regarded line brought Old World grace to cruising.

DEPARTMENTS 4

LETTERS

32

CRUISE NEWS

49

PREVIEW

50

CRUISE VIEWS

26 Koningsdam HAL’s newest cruise liner is a symphony for the senses.

Jason Leppert

SHIP OF THE MONTH

With its 10-deck drop, the Ultimate Abyss on the new Harmony Of The Seas may be the scariest slide afloat.

HOMEPORT SPOTLIGHT

33 San Juan The capital of Puerto Rico welcomes new deployments.

IF YOU ONLY HAVE A DAY IN

34 Taipei City, Taiwan A vibrant mix of natural, cultural, and man-made sights.

CRUISE OF THE MONTH

Turismo Getxo

38 The Blue Danube Sailing the “River Of Kings” in high style with Tauck.

PORT GUIDE

44 Basque Country Discover this fascinating, overlooked corner of Spain.

The port of Getxo welcomes cruisers to Spain’s fascinating Basque Country.

On The Cover: HAL’s new Koningsdam, the largest ship in company history, is now sailing Caribbean voyages. (Photo By Michel Verdure/Holland America Line)

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

3

LETTERS Celebrity Ad Campaign Riles Cruiser Celebrity Cruises’ new global advertising campaign is entitled, “Sail Beyond Borders.”

One television ad states, “Far from talk of building walls, far from the threats of keeping people out, far from the rhetoric of fear....” Pretty clear reference to conservatives and the Trumpsters. Why insult perhaps half of the country? Cruise lines should keep their political views to themselves. This will cost Celebrity cancellations, mine included.

David Kusisto, via e-mail The Taxing Situation In Brazil I read with great interest the Port Of The Month feature on Rio De Janeiro, Brazil, in the July/August 2016 Cruise Travel. We had recently cruised on Oceania Cruises’ Marina from Cape Town, South Africa, to Buenos Aires, Argentina, with a stop en route in Rio. During the cruise, we got a notice informing us that, as soon as we entered Brazilian waters, there would be 25 percent tax imposed on all purchases onboard, including drinks in the bars. It also informed those debarking in Rio that they would face a heavy import duty on their onboard purchases of 50 percent at the airport. It further advised those staying on until Buenos Aires to put their onboard purchases on layaway and wait until we got to Argentinian waters to pay for them.

It was no surprise that the notice also stated that some cruise lines were bypassing Brazil because of the high taxation there.

Edward D. Kee, Newark, DE NCL Exceeded Our Expectations I have been a longtime reader of Cruise Travel and a lifelong avid cruiser, ever since my family’s first cruise on Holland America Line’s old MS Statendam from New York to Bermuda—so hooked, in fact, that I worked on ships as an assistant cruise director for several years.

As a passenger, I have taken numerous cruises with friends and family, enjoying every one with Holland America, Carnival Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean International, and Norwegian Cruise Line. Every line offers something different, and every ship has its own personality. (I am often amazed and amused about all the complainers that send letters to Cruise Travel.)

My wife and I recently embarked on a seven-day cruise on NCL’s Norwegian Breakaway to celebrate our 10th anniversary.

One day into the cruise I received a call informing me that my father had become seriously ill and we needed to return home. I immediately contacted the Haven concierge, and I have to say the concierge, assistant concierge, and every other crew-member went above and beyond for us during an extremely emotional and stressful time. From arranging flights home from our first port-ofcall, to having a van waiting for us at 4 a.m.

4

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

to take us to the airport, to ensuring we had a seamless experience with customs, everyone we encountered acted with a sense of urgency, compassion, and caring.

The level of service we received was well beyond our expectations. A huge thanks to the Norwegian Breakaway team.

Brett Chittenden, Whitestone, NY Carnival Has The Cruise Magic In the years I have been traveling, I have cruised on many lines including Royal Caribbean, Sun (no longer in business), Sitmar (taken over by Princess), Princess, Chandris (no longer in business), Celebrity, Norwegian, and Carnival. My recent cruise on the Carnival Magic made my other cruises look pale by comparison, even though I had fun on all of them.

My family and friends sailed the Carnival Magic out of Port Canaveral. I have never had so much fun on a cruise! The weeklong itinerary took us to Amber Cove, St. Thomas, San Juan, and Grand Turk, with a day at sea each way. We enjoyed all the ports.

The cruise director, Reverend Dr. E, was the best. He kept us entertained, dancing, clapping, and singing. The show on the last evening, Carnival Legends, was spectacular.

Who would have guessed there was so much talent on the ship? The crew-members in all areas of the ship were friendly and helpful.

The food onboard was great. While some lines have stopped serving escargot, frog legs, and lobster tail in the main dining room, Carnival continues to do so. The food in the lido buffet was plentiful with various options to choose from. The burgers at Guy’s Burger Joint were not the best I have had but still very tasty. With all this great food on the ship, there was no need to pay extra to eat at any of the specialty restaurants.

My only disappointment on the Carnival Magic was the Pixels Gallery. I found the photos to be too expensive, and there was too much waste. Why print so many photos? I was glad to read about the line’s new photodisplay system on the Carnival Vista (New Ship Review, Cruise Travel, September/ October 2016). That sounds 100 percent better and should reduce waste by 100 percent.

Who needs to go on a photo hunt in crowded spaces during a cruise when one can use an app, computer station, or the TV in the cabins to view the pictures? I hope Carnival puts this new system on all its ships.

Would I recommend the Carnival Magic?

Yes, very much so!

Jorge L. Rodriguez, Corona-Elmhurst, NY Cruise Travel welcomes mail from its readers.

Please include full name and address and send to Letters, Cruise Travel, 990 Grove St., Suite 400, Evanston, IL 60201-6510; or e-mail to editor@cruisetravelmag.com.

CRUISE TRAVEL

®

THE WORLDWIDE CRUISE VACATION MAGAZINE

Publisher

Norman Jacobs Editor

Charles Doherty Art Director

Robert A. Wyszkowski Associate Editor

Randy Mink Assistant Editor

Christina Victor Cruise Calendar Editor

Mary Magruder Production Manager

Dale Jacobs Circulation Manager

Richard Kent Newsstand Manager

Dale Fawcett Customer Service

Murray Jacobs Advertising Manager

Irene Froehlich 990 Grove St./Ste. 400 Evanston, IL 60201-6510 708-456-9247; fax 708-395-5333 ifroehlich@cruisetravelmag.com Business & Editorial Offices

Cruise Travel Magazine 990 Grove St./Ste. 400 Evanston, IL 60201-6510 847-491-6440 Subscription Office (New Subscriptions, Renewals, Address Changes, Inquiries)

Cruise Travel Magazine P.O. Box 433072 Palm Coast, FL 32143-3072 Newsstand Distribution

Curtis Circulation Company 730 River Rd. New Milford, NJ 07646-3048 201-634-7400; fax 201-634-7499 Web Site

www.cruisetravelmag.com All efforts are made to ensure factual accuracy within each issue, but Lakeside Publishing Company, LLC, cannot be held responsible for changes, omissions, or errors in cruiseline information, or for the return of unsolicited materials.

Cruise Travel (ISSN 0199-5111) is published bimonthly (six times a year) by Lakeside Publishing Company, LLC, 990 Grove St./Ste. 400, Evanston, IL 60201-6510. Registered U.S. Patent Office. Periodicals postal rates paid at Evanston, IL, and additional mailing offices. U.S. subscriptions $58.95 per year, Canada $68.95 (GST incl.), other foreign $78.95; U.S. funds only. Copyright 2016 by Lakeside Publishing Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

No materials from this publication may be reproduced without permission. Postmaster: Send address changes to Cruise Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 433072, Palm Coast, FL 32143-3072. USPS 540-430; GST 841109010RT0001.

PRINTED IN THE USA

PORT OF THE MONTH

BERGEN The gateway to the Norwegian fjords serves up a trifecta of history, culture, and nature

By Cele & Lynn Seldon an import/export office of the Hanseatic League opened in the town. A mostly German confederation of merchant guilds that operated throughout Northern Europe and the Baltic region, the Hanseatic League gradually acquired ownership of Bryggen and would dominate local trade for the next 400 years. The appearance of Bryggen today— long narrow rows of wooden buildings facing the harbor, separated by tight passageways—can be attributed to the influence of those German colonists.

Also in the mid 14th century, the Black Plague made its way to Norway (carried by the crew of an English ship arriving in Bergen) and killed many of the native Norwegians. Furthermore, the city was plagued by numerous great fires over the centuries—the most significant being in 1702 when 90 percent of the city was burned, which reshaped its architectural past and present.

As Bergen is surrounded by seven mountains (or nine, depending on whom you ask), visiting one is a must. The easiest way to do that is to take the Floibanen Funicular to the

Bergen Tourist Board/Terje Rakke

Continued on page 8

The Floibanen Funicular (above) is the easiest way to ascend Mount Floyen for panoramic views of the city (spread photo), plus hiking and biking trails, canoeing, dining, and live entertainment.

6 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

Bergen Tourist Board/Gjertrud Coutinho

nown as the City Of Seven Mountains, Bergen has a storied history—and bright future—and is much more than just the gateway to the stunning Norwegian fjords. This former capital is Norway’s second-largest city—it was the largest until 1830 when it was surpassed by Oslo, the current capital. Every year more than a halfmillion lucky cruise passengers are drawn to its historic harbor of Bryggen, the heart of one of Europe’s oldest ports.

Located on the west coast of Norway, Bergen was founded around 1070 by King Olav Kyrre and given the name Bjorgvin— the green meadow among the mountains.

Covering an area of 180 square miles, the city center is surrounded by the Seven Mountains—although there continues to be disagreement as to which of the actual nine area mountains constitute the Seven—and has a metro population of more than 275,000.

Bergen Port is Norway’s busiest in both freight and passengers with 300-plus cruiseship calls per year.

Several significant milestones in Bergen’s history have helped to shape its current state. In the middle of the 14th century,

K

Continued from page 6

top of Mount Floyen. At just under 1,050 feet, Mount Floyen offers stunning views of Bergen and the surrounding area; hiking and biking on endless trails and paths; canoeing at Skomakerdiket, the Shoemaker’s Dike; a variety of activities for kids and kids at heart; a cafe and restaurant; and live entertainment.

Return on the funicular or stroll down among the old wooden houses, narrow alleyways, and cobblestone streets on the mountainside.

Once back in town, explore some of Bergen’s history at the 17th-century cathedral or the nearby School Museum. Originally located near the fortress on the harbor, the relatively simple cathedral was moved into town in 1530 to protect it from intruders. The School Museum/Holberg Museum is housed in the original Latin School where 18th-century writer Ludvig Holberg was considered its most famous pupil. Today the museum traces the history of Norwegian schools and, with it, the history of Norwegian society from the Middle Ages to this day, while also highlighting Holberg, a fascinating comedy writer, historian, educator, and Bergen native.

Other history awaits in the Hanseatic Museum and Schotstuene. The former, housed in one of the oldest (1704) and best-

Bergen Tourist Board/Per Nybo

BERGEN

preserved buildings in the Bryggen area, explores how the German merchants lived and worked in Bergen from 1360 to the mid 1700s, and displays some original Hanseatic furnishings. The nearby Schotstuene features the assembly rooms and kitchen that were used by the Hanseatic people for school, ceremonies, and feasts.

For more intriguing history, visit the Bryggens Museum, which is based on the findings of archeological excavations in Bryggen since 1955. Featuring the foundations of some of the oldest buildings in Bergen (12th century), ceramics, and runic inscriptions, the museum’s collection illustrates the port’s commerce, shipping, cultural activities, and daily life in the Middle Ages.

Nearby is Bergen’s oldest remaining building, St. Mary’s Church, which was built between 1135 and 1180 and is still in use today.

Bergenhus Fortress, located at the entrance to the harbor, is one of the oldest and best preserved castles in Norway and was originally the royal residence for King Hakon Hakonsson. It also housed a cathedral, several churches, the bishop’s residence, and a Dominican monastery. Today its prominent building is Hakonshallen (Hakon’s Hall), a medieval stone hall from the mid 13th century that was used for major events of the time. It is the largest secular medieval building in Norway and still hosts royal dinners and other official occasions.

The other significant building on the fortress grounds is Rosenkrantz Tower—considered one of the most important Renaissance monuments in Norway—with dungeons on the ground floor and spectacular views from the cannon posts on the top floor.

The medieval structures of Bryggen combine to create a living museum. Featuring more than 60 buildings along the waterfront

Bryggen’s traditional buildings line the wharf leading to Bergenhus Fortress, guarding the harbor entrance (below); St. Mary’s church (above) is nearby.

isitors with extended time in port might opt for something a bit more unique and natural. Bergen is, of course, the gateway to the fjords of Norway, and day trips to Hardangerfjord or Mostraumen are readily available and a highlight of any trip—even if your cruise includes sailing other fjords.

If adventurous food is more your taste, then head to the Fish Market—which has been in operation along the waterfront for more than 400 years. This picturesque and lively market is one of Norway’s most visited outdoor markets and features fruit, vegetables, flowers, handicrafts, souvenirs, and, of course, plenty of Norwegian fish and shellfish. Don’t miss the nearby Fish Hall, which was completed in 2013 and houses some additional fresh-fish vendors, seafood restaurants, and the helpful tourist information office on the second floor.

If the fish market makes you hungry, there are plenty of modern restaurants and cafes to explore. In Bryggen, don’t miss the traditional skillingsbolle (cinnamon bun) at Baker Brun. If a traditional Norwegian meal is what you are looking for, try the saltkjott & raspeballer (salt meat and potato dumplings) or the lutefisk (cod treated with lye and served boiled) at Bryggeloftet & Stuene. Another option is to step back in history at Egon

Seldon Ink

that were originally used as Hanseatic commercial trading posts, these old wooden houses were almost completely demolished in the fire of 1955. Instead of being razed, however, they were eventually restored and reconstructed to the original architectural standards found during excavations. Today, Bryggen houses museums, galleries, shops, restaurants, cafes, and pubs throughout the complex, which was designated a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1979.

For more contemporary history, head to the west side of the harbor and explore this varied foursome: the Bergen Art Museum, the Museum Of Cultural History, the Maritime Museum, and the Bergen Aquarium. Or take a historical ferry from the waterfront to the authentic wharfside warehouses of the Norwegian Fisheries Museum. For something a bit different and oh-so-Norway, stop by the newly opened Magic Ice Bar and immerse yourself in the art of ice carving while enjoying a cool cocktail.

Music lovers will fancy a visit to the Edvard Grieg Museum Troldhaugen, just a few miles from the center of Bergen. Troldhaugen was the famous composer’s home for 22 years, and Grieg composed many of his best known works in its little garden hut.

Today Troldhaugen is a living museum comprising an exhibition center with shop and cafe, concert hall, composers’ cabin, and Grieg’s villa, which dates from 1885. Guided tours of the villa run continuously for both groups and individual tourists, and popular lunchtime concerts are available every day during the summer season.

The wide selection of unusual sausages served at 3-Kroneren includes reindeer.

Continued on next page

Seldon Ink

The finest of Norwegian merchandise is sold in shops housed in historic Bryggen buildings.

Bergen Tourist Board/Per Elde

Bergen Tourist Board/Robin Strand

V

Bergen’s Fish Market, in operation for more than 400 years, is one of the world’s liveliest.

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

9

10 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

This aerial view looks over the cruise-ship docks, down Bryggen harbor, and towards Mount Floyen.

BERGEN Continued

Restaurant in Bergen’s original meat market at Kjottbasaren.

For something a bit more upscale, Bare Vestland near the Ludvig Holberg statue specializes in Norwegian tapas. The Matborsen Food Hall above Bare Vestland is a contemporary food court featuring various stations in the Fresco Hall of the old 1862 Bergen Exchange, which comes complete with stunning full-sized murals by renowned Norwegian artist Axel Revold. There are plenty of fresh seafood options in and around the Fish Market and Fish Hall, and you can also grab a typical Norwegian sausage to go at 3Kroneren—try the reindeer, wild game, or hot chili frankfurter for something unique.

Taking home a bit of Bergen is easy, as typical Norwegian souvenirs are widely available, like hand-knitted sweaters, embroidery, handcrafted jewelry, and the popular lykketroll—lucky trolls from Scandinavian folklore that are considered to be protectors. The charming waterfront shops throughout Bryggen and the pedestrianized Gagaten are ideal spots for finding the perfect souvenir. More contemporary shopping can be found in the city center at Galleriet on Torgallmenningen Square.

Food souvenirs are plentiful at the Fish Market, including salmon (regular, smoked,

Bergen Tourist Board/Robin Strand

Bergen Tourist Board/Jan M. Lillebo

Know Before You Go Ships That Call: Most major cruise lines plying Northern European waters call on Bergen, including AIDA, Azamara, Celebrity, Costa, Crystal, Cunard, Fred. Olsen, Holland America, MSC, Norwegian, Oceania, P&O, Princess, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, SeaDream, Silversea, Star Clippers, Swan Hellenic, Viking, and others.

Weather: Bergen’s climate is generally classified as a temperate oceanic climate, with cool winters and mild summers. The average temperature in January is about 40 degrees, while the average temperature in July is a comfortable 70 degrees. Due to being surrounded by mountains, Bergen has considerable rainfall throughout the year (89 inches per year on average) but tends to see less rain April through August, making the summer an ideal time to visit.

Money Matters: The currency of Norway is the krone or kroner (plural), which translates to “crown,” and is abbreviated as Kr or NOK. (U.S.$1=NOK8.27 at presstime); ATM machines are easy to find, and debit cards and major credit cards are widely accepted. Be sure to pick up a Bergen Card at the tourist information center on the waterfront for free or discounted admission to most museums and attractions, as well as on public transport.

For More Information: Contact your travel agent or Innovation Norway (Cruise Travel Magazine), 655 Third Ave., Suite 1810, New York, NY 10017; or log on to Bergen Tourist Board’s web site at www.visitbergen.com.

Music-lovers will fancy a visit to Edvard Grieg Museum Troldhaugen, the longtime home of Norway’s most celebrated composer.

and cured gravlax-style), rakfish (soaked fish), smoked cod roe (great as a spread on crackers and sandwiches), cod liver oil, sausages, chocolate, and salty licorice (also known as assalmiakki). Many of these can be found at kiosks throughout the Fish Market, as well as in shops along Bryggen.

With history from every era stretching back to the 11th century, unique cultural attractions, and natural wonders rising from the sea to the mountains—all wrapped up in a modern, cosmopolitan city—Bergen is a CT perfect port for a taste of Norway.

CRUISE GUIDE

Photo Courtesy Lladro

Savvy Souvenir Shopping With a little forethought, this popular travel pastime can be even more rewarding Lladro figurines like Riding With You may bring back fond memories of your cruise.

By Georgina Cruz h, yes, souvenir shopping: everyone does it while on a cruise to exotic ports, as we all want to bring something back home to remind us of our wonderful vacation. But how does one become a savvy souvenir shopper?

After enjoying more than 200 cruises to the world’s most popular destinations, I have adopted some strategies for souvenir shopping. First and foremost is to do at least some of your homework ahead of the voyage. Researching your destination will yield information on the area’s traditional arts & crafts and what other items are typical and available to buy. Guidebooks such as Fodor’s, Frommer’s, and Insight Guides, in addition to the cruise ship’s own shopping lecturer, are valuable resources. Your ship’s shopping lecturer and shore-excursion staff will also be able to inform you about what may be able to be brought in at your debarkation point, as well as what United States Customs allowances and restrictions are for your particular itinerary.

One important aspect of souvenir shop-

Georgina Cruz

A

Continued on page 14

Georgina Cruz

Don’t get carried away shopping in St. Thomas; magnets and postcards are easy to transport, but a steel drum or guitar could be trouble.

ping to research and ask about is where to shop for authentic pieces that may or may not be found in touristy marketplaces. No one wants to buy a knickknack with “Jamaica” carved on it, but on closer inspection reveals a sticker that says “Made In China.” If you are unsure about the authenticity or quality of an item, buy it only if you really, really like it and feel that you can’t live without it, advises Barbara Haenni, an On Location Guide with Holland America Line. That way, if it turns out not to be authentic, it does not matter too much because, since you like it, you will still display it or wear it and so get your money’s worth.

Make out a budget for souvenir purchases and stay within that budget. Find out if haggling is customary and expected, but haggle only if you intend to buy so as not to waste your and the vendor’s time.

Starting a themed collection—beyond the popular magnets, shot glasses, teaspoons, Tshirts, and postcards—is fun (I have a postcard from most of the ships I have sailed on

12 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

Georgina Cruz

During our world cruise onboard Holland America Line’s Amsterdam, the souvenir market came to us when docked in Phuket, Thailand.

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

13

Jim Kerr

Georgina Cruz

Handicraft shopping is easy at private islands like Disney’s Castaway Cay.

Haggling is expected at the famous Straw Market in Nassau, Bahamas.

Savvy Souvenir Shopping and some of several of my bucket-list destinations). Themed collections, however, require some forethought: For example, buying musical instruments from each place you visit may be very nice, but if you don’t learn to play them, after a while you may resent that they take up so much space in your home. Linda Coffman, host of Cruise Diva.com and author of Fodor’s Caribbean Cruise Ports Of Call and Fodor’s Complete Guide To Alaska Cruises, enjoys her themed collection of cat figurines. “I find them in many ports-of-call, creations of local artisans that are often unique additions to my collection,” Coffman said.

Animal figurines are great to collect, but always consider size. A couple we met on a cruise to South Africa got carried away after their safaris and bought several almost lifesize animal sculptures, and then realized that they did not know where they would be able to put them.

Other themed items Coffman collects include watercolors and prints from local artists, and colorful bird- and sea-creaturethemed mobiles and wind chimes that she has found in the Caribbean and Mexico.

Popular, practical items that make good themed collections include bone-china teacups/saucers that can be used as well as displayed—I have a very pretty set from a cruise around the British Isles. hen it comes to souvenir shopping, I definitely like something with staying power. Sure, those yummy biscottis from Italy (we always get some) and those Caribbean spices, sauces, and rums that you picked up in the islands—maybe from the Callwood’s Rum Distillery, an old distillery that has been operating for four centuries in Tortola—are delicious. But they are quickly gone, pleasurably consumed within days or weeks after the cruise. So I always reserve part of my souvenir money for local arts & crafts to display in our house for years. Not only do these artful souvenirs have more staying power, but they also reveal the heart and soul of a destination.

Some of our favorite arts & crafts sou-

Georgina Cruz

Continued from page 12

The marketplaces near the holy shrines in Jerusalem’s Old City are filled with wonders.

venirs have included molas (layered applique cloths by the Kuna Indians of the San Blas Islands of Panama) that we have acquired during Princess and Holland America voyages. The molas, whose colorful designs include birds, fish, and other local fauna, are suitable for framing; and often the designs are incorporated into blouses, skirts, dresses, and handbags, so they are wearable art as well.

In Puerto Rico while on Royal Caribbean, Cunard, and Carnival cruises, we’ve admired santos de palo—woodcarvings depicting saints or holy persons, a local tradition since the 16th century. Large santos decorate churches; smaller santos, displayed in wooden boxes with folding doors, adorn private homes. Popular santos include the Magi (usually depicted on camels), which make wonderful Christmas decorations. Visitors can find these smaller, handmade santos for sale in shops and boutiques in Old San Juan, near the cruise-ship pier.

In Roadtown, Tortola, we have found wonderful Caribbean art created by local artists at Sunny Caribee Art Gallery on Main Street and at other shops like Soper’s Hole.

Great artistic souvenirs available include lovely paintings of the island’s traditional gingerbread houses as well as wood and metal sculptures. Another wonderful source of local artists’ works in Roadtown is Crafts Alive Village at the lower end of Wickham Cay, a 10-minute walk from the cruise pier— ask for artist Joseph Hodge, who operates from one of the village’s colorful booths; he can often be seen working on his paintings and chatting with visitors.

Another artistic souvenir favorite of ours are Lladro figurines. Cruise callers may visit Lladro’s City Of Porcelain in Valencia, Spain, and watch artisans working and then tour the Lladro Museum. Creating each Lladro piece is a labor of love and involves research, a sketch of the figure in clay, and a

The vibrant Municipal Market in Papeete, Tahiti, is filled with everything from handicrafts to hardware.

14 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

Georgina Cruz

W

Georgina Cruz

Georgina Cruz

plaster mold. A mid-sized Lladro figurine requires 15 to 20 molds, and some 300 molds are required for complex pieces. The figurine’s decoration includes the carving of many details, painting, and sometimes adding a coat of varnish. A characteristic Lladro touch on figurines is flowers— Valencia, in the south of Spain, is noted for its many exquisite blossoms—with each bloom for the figurine created petal by petal following a delicate process. Then the completely decorated piece is placed on a kiln at 1,300 degrees celsius for 24 hours.

We have purchased Lladros in Spanish ports while on Oceania, Celebrity, and Azamara Club cruises, but these figurines are also available for purchase in many ports around the world, including in “the shopping center of the Caribbean,” namely, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, where we visited most recently in early August on a Disney cruise and where we found Lladros are among the many arty souvenirs available. dmittedly, these artistic figurines are on the pricier side, but for more modest budgets, there are many available local arts & crafts, like woodcarvings, woven baskets and hats, and other handcrafted items.

Cultural Illusions at Disney’s private island of Castaway Cay in the Bahamas, for example, sells authentic Bahamian arts & crafts including straw hats, batiks, shell items, and other souvenirs. Purchases made at Cultural Illusions and other shops on the private

A

You’ll find Tortolan artist Joseph Hodge at Crafts Alive Village in Roadtown.

Georgina Cruz

Lacey fans are wonderful souvenirs sold in central markets in Cadiz, Spain.

Bargain for good deals on Hong Kong’s famous clothing and linens at Stanley Market.

island can be sent back to the ship by Disney staff so guests do not have to lug them around all day while enjoying the beach.

During other cruises to the Bahamas, we have also patronized the local Straw Market in Nassau on Bay Street (within easy walking distance of the cruise-ship piers), where we have found a profusion of colorful, inexpensive, handcrafted items including straw dolls, hats, bags, mats, and even slippers. The Nas-

BVI Tourist Board

You’ll find wonderful Caribbean art at Soper’s Hole in Roadtown, Tortola, British Virgin Islands.

sau Straw Market also offers conch-shell jewelry, carvings, and other souvenirs at budget-friendly prices—and negotiation is encouraged.

Local markets are a wonderful source of arts & crafts, and we visit them often, with our rewards being unique, handcrafted items at reasonable prices. One of our favorites we have frequented during three world cruises on Holland America’s Amsterdam is the Municipal Market in Papeete, Tahiti, just a short stroll from the cruise-ship pier. This is a shopper’s paradise with local products including flowers and essential oils, and many handicrafts including shell items, carvings, and hand-woven palm frond hats. Here, like in markets in many destinations, haggling is often expected and definitely part of the fun while acquiring some treasures.

Additional sources of souvenirs to treasure for years after your cruise are often a port city’s very sidewalks, where enterprising young artists sometimes set up their watercolors and other paintings and artwork for sale.

While on a Greek Isles voyage with Crystal a few years ago, a fellow passenger purchased a lovely watercolor of Oia, Santorini’s picture-postcard-perfect white village with bluedomed churches, from an artist who was displaying his art on the sidewalk. Most of this artist’s beautiful paintings were selling for the equivalent of $25 to $50 each.

Passengers who would like to purchase local arts & crafts souvenirs but prefer to use their time ashore for sightseeing and touring instead of shopping, should check out the ship’s boutiques. They are often a good source of local souvenir items from various ports on the itinerary. During our most recent world cruise, for instance, guests could purchase Egyptian cartouche jewelry and handicrafts while crossing the Suez Canal; buy Tahitian pearls while sailing in French Polynesia; and acquire authentic aboriginal crafts including hand-carved and hand-decorated boomerangs while cruising in Australia. Onboard shops also offer collectible international art, like Lladro figurines, at duty-free prices.

But whether you purchase it onboard or at various places ashore, back home the sight of your souvenir is sure to remind you often of your cruise and the places you were priviCT leged to visit.

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

15

NEW SHIP REVIEW

HARMONY OF THE SEAS The world’s largest cruise liner melds the best of RCI’s Oasis- and Quantum-Class vessels

By Jason Leppert Photos By Michel Verdure At 226,963 gross tons, RCI’s Harmony Of The Seas is slightly larger than her sisters, making her the largest cruise liner ever built.

hen a ship is anticipated as the largest in the world, the vessel literally has some big shoes—or is that waterskis?—to fill when she finally sets sail. And more than any other cruise ship before her, Royal Caribbean Interna tional’s Harmony Of The Seas succeeds in seemingly offering something for everyone. Sure, she’s part of the established Oasis Class, but this time around the features introduced on RCI’s innovative Quantum-Class vessels are also along for the ride—and the hybrid result is im-

W

16 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

mensely satisfying, delivering on the line’s promised “wow factor.”

When first I laid eyes on the Harmony Of The Seas, she was still under construction at the STX France shipyard in SaintNazaire. From the outside, the vessel was nearly complete, already sporting its powder blue hull and bright white superstructure; but on the inside, the bulk of the cabins, fixtures, and finished decor was still being installed. But even then, one could tell the ship was soon to become something special. Later, when I gazed upon the

completed vessel docked in Barcelona, Spain, she appeared graceful, despite her enormity, with attractive swooping curves.

With a total passenger capacity of 6,730 and a gross tonnage of 226,963 (1,681 gt larger than her sisters), the Harmony Of The Seas reigns as the largest cruise liner ever built. Like her sister ships Oasis Of The Seas and Allure Of The Seas, she is so big that she is divided into seven “neighborhoods” to help guests spatially orient themselves. At its central core is the dramatic Royal Promenade horizontal atrium

stretching the midship length between elevator lobbies. Nowhere else is the massive scale of the ship more evident than in this voluminous space, which resembles a shopping mall, similarly lined with shops and restaurants, more than a typical cruise-ship atrium.

If there is but one complaint about the Royal Promenade, it is that it’s very inwardly focused and wholly isolated from the sea; but the Boardwalk neighborhood at the stern opens up to the outside with an al fresco courtyard familiar to previous Oasis-Class passengers. On this third iteration, however, Starbucks Coffee is now positioned here in its own storefront among the carousel, shops, and restaurants. Plus, the highly anticipated Ultimate Abyss pair of slides, nestled between two rock-climbing walls, spirals down 10 decks from the Pool & Sports Zone—its own neighborhood, where two FlowRider surf simulators, miniature golf links, a sports court, and zip-line also reside.

Does the so-called “ultimate slide” live up to the hype? Well, for starters it seems strange that it’s not a waterslide but a dry variety, which was deemed scarier during testing, according to the line. Thus riders are required to sit in a sleeping-bag-like sack to reduce friction, which should give a sense of the high speeds achieved on the way down. The verdict? The Ultimate Abyss is, indeed, extremely thrilling and makes for quick work descending those 10 decks. If anything, I wish the ride were just a bit longer than the 13.14 seconds, on average, that it clocks in at.

In fact, for a line that had very few slides of any kind in its recent past, RCI is now fully embracing these attractions, including another three more traditional waterslides suspended over Central Park, another open-air neighborhood complete with actual live plants for taking a casual stroll through. The Perfect Storm trio of slides features two body-tube racers and another body-tube slide ending in a champagne-bowl finish. Like the Ultimate Abyss, these slides are also faster than expected and up the ship’s thrill quotient accordingly.

Of course, for kids who haven’t quite reached the height requirement nor found their requisite need for speed, there is also Splashaway Bay, a kids waterpark area with a tamer slide, dump bucket, and lots of other interactive water elements to enjoy.

Meanwhile, the DreamWorks Experience is reprised with favorite animated characters onboard, and the Youth Zone neighborhood, in general, features plenty of additional space for varying age groups to let out their kinetic and creative energies.

Here Harmony Of The Seas even touts Puzzle Break’s first dedicated escape room at sea—Escape The Rubicon— Entrance to the Ultimate Abyss, a speedy, scary slide aft that drops riders 10 decks in 13 seconds.

Continued on next page

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

17

Set at the stern (with the Ultimate Abyss tubes above and behind it), the AquaTheater presents unique water shows that are thrilling and fun-filled.

HARMONY OF THE SEAS Continued

wherein a group of up to 12 guests at a time must solve a series of mysteries in just an hour to be released from the Hollywood-grade sci-fi-themed venue. This really is a must try, especially since it is free of charge; only sign-ups are required for the eight sessions available daily (just three on embarkation day).

Other diversions are hosted back at the Boardwalk where the outdoor AquaTheater sits right over the stern for unique

aquatic productions like The Fine Line, one of two such shows. Varying tank depths allow swimmers to make a splash in shallow water or descend on dramatic high dives while aerial acrobats are suspended way up above the audience. Words truly cannot accurately describe the experience other than to say there is nothing quite like the bombastic dance battle between live performers and a vast array of kinetic fountains. It’s just too fun.

Besides the Casino Royale and smaller venues that draw more intimate crowds to live jazz music and comedy sets, the Entertainment Place neighborhood houses

Balconies on the AquaTheater suites offer great views of the water shows.

the grand Studio B ice rink and its hightech show 1887 (there are also times when guests can skate) and the Royal Theater, home to a perfect production of Grease.

(Each venue offers another show as well.)

A Steampunk-style ice show, 1887 abstractly tells a romantic story of time travel that employs world-renowned skaters and high-technology for theatrical effect, and Grease is a flawless rendition of the musical that combines the best of the Broadway production and the film version paired with a phenomenal company of singers and dancers and a welcome live studio band.

This Central Park cabin’s balcony overlooks its namesake neighborhood.

Among the intimate watering holes is the car-themed Boot & Bonnet Bar.

The Bionic Bar (with its robotic bartenders) makes its Oasis-Class debut.

them are special suites that feature veranda views of the shows as well as ocean vistas off to the sides and aft of the ship.

But the creme de la creme of suites are perched high above in the space made to architecturally resemble the line’s signature Viking Crown Lounge that is found on classic RCI ships. Here are found the ex clusive forward-facing Suite Lounge and Coastal Kitchen specialty restaurant (also open to Pinnacle club members). But the bulk of the space is composed of 32 double-decker loft suites ranging in size from 545 to 1,524 square feet. Not only does the Royal Suite Class afford the most spacious rooms onboard, but those in the highest Star Class get a new Royal Genie that tranf course, neighborhoods scends butler status to more would not be complete withexclusive heights—think special out residences, and the Harmony extras like VIP access and perOf The Seas features plenty of sonal shopping. accommodation options. Cabins Once all this has been ex range from traditional inside plored, what is left is even more, staterooms to palatial loft suites.

Even among the interior vari- The extensive Adventure Ocean kid’s facilities includes a science lab. in the form of abundant dining choices. In fact, there are so eties, there are those for solo Ocean-view staterooms come with or many restaurants and watering holes travelers and families—and even rooms with virtual balconies to display outside without balconies, and thanks to Central onboard that one of the latter even elevates Park and the Boardwalk, many that would patrons between the Royal Promenade and views digitally on a video wall.

Altogether, most staterooms take their just be inside cabins on narrower ships Central Park as the Rising Tid e Bar design cues more from the Quantum-Class have balconies overlooking the mega - leisurely goes up and down. I actually than the Oasis-Class ships, and that means liner’s courtyards. With a particularly ordered a concoction from the vastly Continued on next page colors are bright and vibrant and closet stunning view of the AquaTheater below The Vitality At Sea Spa & Fitness Center is considered the last neighborhood onboard, comprising 29 treatment rooms, thermal suite, teen spa, and dedicated cafe.

High above it on the upper decks is the terraced Solarium and its collection of chaise lounges, whirlpools (two of which are impressively cantilevered over the side of the ship), bistro, and King Of The World observation platform. The latter is a glass-floored deck that is suspended over and forward of the port bridge wing and provides stunning views and playful photoops at the bow as it cuts through the waves. Elsewhere, three outdoor pools invite active or relaxed dips.

space and overall storage are evenly spread out along the walls with cabinets that flank and bridge over the beds.

Bathrooms are well configured with just enough room for everything to fit comfortably, and cylindrical showers are easy to turn around in thanks to a solid swinging door instead of a flimsy curtain.

O

Wonderland, with its imaginative cuisine, has been expanded to two decks.

Suite guests enjoy gourmet dining in the exclusive Coastal Kitchen.

Great sightlines and state-of-the-art sound and light systems in the Royal Theater complement the phenomenal troupe of singers and dancers.

HARMONY OF THE SEAS Continued

entertaining adjacent Bionic Bar to take on the ride after two robot arms crafted my custom beverage. The entire effect is certainly a kinetic one.

Kicking off the complimentary dining options is a three-story main restaurant.

The line’s Dynamic Dining program isn’t fully carried over, but each level of this restaurant still features one of the different themes first introduced on the Quantum Of The Seas: American Icon Grill, Silk, and The Grande. Complimentary cuisine— including the Windjammer Marketplace buffet, Sorrento’s pizzeria, and Mini Bites (serving small quick-service portions, as the name implies)—is very good, and specialty dining is excellent. (Some restaurants feature Coca-Cola Freestyle ma chines that offer 165 soft-drink flavors.)

RCI favorites, like Chops Grille and Johnny Rockets, are nestled among the scenic neighborhoods, serving their tasty comfort food, while some newcomers make their way over from the Quantum Class—such as the fantastical Wonderland, here a double-deck venue (that also doubles the original’s capacity) with floorto-ceiling windows overlooking the Boardwalk and the stern. The restaurant list goes on and on to include Jamie’s Italian, Izumi Hibachi & Sushi, 150 Central Park, and Sabor—which pleasantly surprised me for cooking genuinely spicy Mexican cuisine that satisfied this Southern Californian.

Royal Caribbean International has a surefire winner on its hands with the new Harmony Of The Seas. Since it would be very difficult to enjoy everything the megaliner has to offer within a week’s 20 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

time, the abundance of choice ensures repeatability, and the hybrid effects of the combined Oasis-/Quantum-Class features make her the best of both and surely one of the best cruise ships in the world.

The Harmony Of The Seas departs every Saturday from Fort Lauderdale on alternating roundtrips to the Eastern and

Western Caribbean through April 22, 2017. Per-person/double-occupancy fares range from $499 to $2,499.

For more information contact your travel agent or Royal Caribbean International (Cruise Travel Magazine), 1050 Caribbean Way, Miami, FL 33132; call 800-327-6700; or log on to www.royalcaribbean.com. CT

The Boardwalk bustles day and night with attractions like the carousel and casual restaurants.

SPECIAL 2 FOR 1 CHRISTMAS OFFER Get 2 subscriptions for the price of 1.

Your new or renewal plus a bonus holiday gift subscription for a friend at no additional cost.

Close relatives...best friends... special neighbors...would all love a year of CRUISE TRAVEL. Why not share CRUISE TRAVEL this holiday season–and all through next year–with the people that mean the most to you?

It’s an idea they’ll appreciate, and it makes good sense, too:

• CRUISE TRAVEL IS A THOUGHTFUL AND MEANINGFUL GIFT: Upbeat, informative and entertaining, it’s a constant source of travel information.

• CRUISE TRAVEL IS EASY TO GIVE: Just complete and mail this form; we’ll do the rest.

No crowds, no delivery concerns, no size or color questions.

• CRUISE TRAVEL KEEPS COMING ALL YEAR LONG: Everyone on your gift list will be reminded of your generosity throughout the coming year.

AND BEST OF ALL...

CRUISE TRAVEL is a marvelous value – especially at these 2016 Holiday savings: The first gift or your (new or renewal) subscription is only $38.95.

First additional subscription is FREE.

But this 2016 Holiday offer expires January 9th, 2017 so order today!

Great idea! Please start CRUISE TRAVEL one-year (6 issues) gift subscriptions for each of these folks at the special 2016 Holiday discount!

NO NEED TO SEND ANY MONEY NOW – we’ll bill you later!

I am ordering a total of

subscriptions.

Enter my ■ new or ■ renewal subscription for only $38.95. 7606CA No Canada or Foreign, U.S. only.

(please print)

Name

(1st subscription: $38.95, 2nd sub FREE. Additional subs $29.95.)

No Canada or Foreign, U.S. only.

Address

TOTAL AMOUNT DUE: $

City

■ Payment enclosed ■ Bill me ■ Charge my: ■ VISA ■ MasterCard

State

■ Enter my FREE gift subscription to:

7606CB

No Canada or Foreign, U.S. only.

(please print)

Name CARD NO.

Zip

EXP. DATE Address

SIGNATURE

MAIL THIS FORM TO:

City

CRUISE TRAVEL P.O. Box 433072 Palm Coast, FL 32143-9980

■

1st subscription $38.95, second subscription is FREE. Additional subscriptions $29.95 each.

List each additional gifts on a separate sheet and enclose them with this form.

This offer expires January 9th, 2017.

State

Zip

7606CC

Additional gift subscriptions for only $29.95.

No Canada or Foreign, U.S. only.

Name

(please print)

Address City

State

Zip

CRUISE PIONEER

Highly regarded line brought both an Old World style and a modern meticulousness to cruise travel

By Allan E. Jordan

Sitmar’s first brand-new ship, the 46,000-gross-ton Fairsky, debuted in California in 1984 as the first passenger liner to be christened on the West Coast.

I

once asked a friend what made Sitmar Cruises special, and without missing a beat, she replied, “They serve mixed nuts to the last night!” It was that attention to the small details that endeared Sitmar to its loyal customers. Even now, almost 30 years after the line merged into Princess Cruises, former passengers still fondly recall Sitmar’s high level of service.

Yet, despite its reputation for luxury, Sitmar’s origins were austere. Russian-born businessman Alexandre Vlasov, who had fled Odessa at the time of the Russian revolution, 22 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

got his start in the shipping business transporting coal from Poland to Turkey, Greece, and Italy. In 1938, with his son Boris Vlasov, they started another cargo shipping company named Societa Italiana Trasporti Marittimi SpA, known by the acronym SITMAR, but with a “V” as the funnel marking reflecting the owners’ name.

It would be another decade before Sitmar entered the passenger business, and even then it was only transporting World War II’s displaced persons to Australia under a contract with the United Nations International

Refugee Organization (IRO). Despite its ragtag fleet, which included United States government-built World War II cargo ships, Sitmar still earned a reputation for providing among the best food and accommodations.

By the 1950s, Sitmar had begun to carry a limited number of fare-paying passengers, but its primary business continued to be transporting refugees and migrants. The IRO contract ended in 1952, but three years later Sitmar became the first non-British firm contracted to carry migrants from England to Australia, a service the line would maintain

Crusie Travel Archives Allan E. Jordan

Cruise Travel Archives

Alla

an Colle n E. Jord

ction

After analyzing the trends in passenger shipping, at the end of 1969 Boris Vlasov made the bold decision to launch a new company called Sitmar Cruises, employing the two former Cunard ships and focusing on the emerging cruise-vacation business. While Sitmar had been running cruises from Australia since 1962, as well as later offering cruises from the United Kingdom, it had only run a few low-priced trans-Atlantic crossings to the United States and had never cruised in the American market. But Vlasov believed that the best opportunities lay with this new market.

The former Cunard liners were rebuilt in an Italian shipyard as 25,000-gt luxury cruise ships renamed Fairsea (ex Carinthia) and Fairwind (ex Sylvania). The tourist-class accommodations were removed, and the 1950s decor was replaced by modern styles.

Each ship was fitted with 437 cabins and able to accommodate more than 900 passengers,

Allan E. Jord

for more than a decade. In 1967, preparing for a renewal of its Australian migrant contract, Sitmar purchased two 1950s-built, 22,000-gross-ton ships from Cunard Line, the Carinthia and the Sylvania, which it planned to use to upgrade its operations. As fate would have it, Sitmar lost the IRO contract to Chandris, leaving it with the two unconverted former Cunard ships laid up in England and the three liners that had provided the Australian service.

an Collection

In December 1971 Sitmar Cruises made its West Coast debut with Fairsea Mexican Riviera cruises.

Before long she was sailing Alaska in the summer, taking advantage of “Sitmar Super Savers” fares.

including third and fourth upper berths. The newly fitted white vinyl flooring on the stairs and in the companionways looked old-fashioned to some, but was a symbol of Boris Vlasov’s attention to detail and the demand that his ships be spotless. The public rooms included a large main lounge, a nightclub, Continued on next page

In early 1973 the Fairwind moved to Florida and began sailing Caribbean cruises year-round. Soon the line’s plush accommodations, fine cuisine, and attentive service defined “The Sitmar Experience.”

Cruise Travel Archives

The personable Italian crew, Sitmar’s hallmark, pampered passengers.

Continued

and smaller bars and lounges as well as two dining rooms and a large theater. In addition, there were dedicated spaces for children— including a playroom, nursery, and the “Soda A Go-Go” for the teenagers—plus spacious outdoor decks and a children’s pool.

At first Sitmar planned to have one ship cruising from Australia and the other sailing from Los Angeles, but with the public showing little interest in trans-Pacific cruises, the line decided to deploy both the Fairsea and the Fairwind full-time in the American market. (Starting in August 1973, another Sitmar ship, the Fairstar, was deployed as a fulltime cruise ship in Australia, and she became a fixture in that market during the next 23 years.)

On the West Coast, Sitmar would be going up against the more established Princess Cruises, so it began with advertising encouraging people to wait for “the world’s newest, most magnificent sea-going resort…” while other ads boasted “Sitmar Cruises Low Fares Knock Other Vacations Right Out Of The Water.” The Fairsea debuted on December 17, 1971, sailing 11- and 12-day Mexican Riviera roundtrips from Los Angeles to Puerto Vallarta, Acapulco, Zihuatanejo, and Mazatlan. The Fairwind entered service the following summer, and Sitmar began offer-

In general, Sitmar’s cabins were larger and nicer than those of its rivals.

ing 35-day roundtrips from Los Angeles via the Panama Canal, Caribbean, and Fort Lauderdale and also added 14- and 17-day air/sea options to its program.

“The Sitmar Experience” was the Italian crew, which pampered the passengers and lavished them with food and service that rivaled the best resorts in the world.

By 1976, Sitmar Cruises had turned profitable, and two years later the line was sailing at more than 90 percent capacity with many trips sold out months in advance. Sitmar maintained a pattern of cruises varying in length between six, seven, 10, 11, and 14

nlike some of its competitors, which claimed to have been instant successes, Sitmar Cruises struggled in its early years.

However, Boris Vlasov was committed to the U.S. cruise market, realizing it would take time to establish his new operation. In February 1973, the Fairwind moved to Florida to offer year-round seven-day cruises to San Juan, St. Thomas, Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic), and Port-Au-Prince (Haiti); and for the summer of 1973, the Fairsea moved to San Francisco for 14-day cruises to Alaska. The line also expanded its use of air/sea cruise options. Sitmar was starting to establish the patterns that would carry the line forward, and by the mid 1970s it began marketing what was aptly called “The Sitmar Experience.”

The Fairsea and Fairwind were comfortable ships with cabins that were, for their day, larger and better appointed than those of its competitors. Many staterooms had color TVs and four-channel radios. Early on Sitmar launched Big Band and nostalgia theme cruises, and later its ships started featuring well-known entertainers including comedian Alan King and singer Tony Bennet. Sitmar hallmarks included onboard pizzerias as well as perhaps the industry’s most extensive youth-activity programs. But the heart of

U

WHERE ARE THEY NOW? or a time, the older Sitmar ships reF1993, mained part of Princess Cruises. In the Dawn Princess (ex Fairwind)

Cruise Travel Archives

The Fairwind’s Mediterranean Lounge reflected the fresh, modern look of the 1984 refurbishment.

was sold back to the Vlasov Group and operated under charter to a German firm before being scrapped in 2004. The Fair Princess (ex Fairsea) was retired in 1995, but a year later she resumed service sailing for P&O Cruises Australia until 2000; she was scrapped a few years later. The Sky Princess (ex Fairsky) took over those Australian cruises in 2000, before being sold to Pullmantur in 2006.

Her steam engines, however, were her undoing, forcing her into retirement in 2009; in 2013 she was sold for scrap.

In an odd twist of fate, the three new ships Sitmar was building at the time of the merger, which long sailed for Princess, have been reunited in Australia cruising for P&O Australia, which had assumed Sitmar’s Australian cruise operations. Today the Crown Princess sails as the Pacific Jewel, and the Regal Princess as the Pacific Dawn. The Star Princess (ex FairMajesty) has been operating in Australia as the Pacific Pearl, but in March 2017 she is being delivered to Cruise & Maritime Voyages, a Britishbased firm, that will rechristen her Columbus as the line’s new flagship. (P&O Cruises UK, P&O Cruises Australia, and Princess Cruises are all currently brands of Car nival Corporation & plc.)

The Vlasov Group also returned to the passenger shipping business, being involved with the management of Radisson Seven Seas Cruises and the launch of Silversea Cruises. Now known as V. Ships Leisure, the company continues to provide its management and expertise to the industry.

rends, however, were moving quickly in the cruise business. Supply was suddenly outpacing demand. Sitmar became one of the most aggressive firms, introducing discounts, including free air transportation, and ultimately instituting the industry’s first “super saver” fares using a model similar to the airlines. By 1986, Sitmar was selling Mexico cruises with fares below their 1982 prices.

Cruise Travel Archives

Sitmar’s popular pizzerias were expanded and enhanced on the Fairsky.

Despite some struggles, Boris Vlasov and his team remained confident, and soon there were rumors that Sitmar would acquire Home Lines while also planning two sister ships to the new Fairsky. Late in 1985, Sitmar entered into a letter-of-intent with an Italian shipyard for two 600-cabin ships, but the designs grew larger as the discussions progressed with both Italian and French shipyards. In the spring of 1986, Sitmar surprised the industry by ordering a new 63,000-gt ship with 1,400 lower berths (with an option for a second ship) from the French shipyard Chantiers De L’Atlantique. By year’s end, Sitmar had dropped the option for the second French-built ship and instead ordered two new 70,000-gt vessels with 1,600 berths from the Italian shipyards Ficantieri.

Sitmar was preparing for a major expansion of its American cruise operations. A new look, complete with hull art and new funnel markings, was planned. New destinations, including the South Pacific, Amazon, and New England/Canada, were scheduled for 1988. The French-built ship, which would be named FairMajesty and enter service in the spring of 1989, would operate Sitmar’s Caribbean cruises; meanwhile, the Fairsea and Fairwind would move into new markets including Europe, the South Pacific, and South America.

Amid all the excitement over the future growth came the sad news that Boris Vlasov had died on November 2, 1987. Years earlier he had placed ownership of Sitmar in a fam-

ily trust, keeping it separate from the Vlasov Group, which managed tankers, cargo ships, and ferries. However, none of his children had followed him into the shipping business, and early in 1988 the family sold some Sitmar shares to an investment group. Then at the end of July 1988 came the news that P&O had acquired Sitmar for $210-million and would merge it with its long-time rival Princess Cruises (then owned by P&O). The following month, the Fairsea was renamed Fair Princess, the Fairwind was renamed Dawn Princess, and the Fairsky was renamed Sky Princess, while the new FairMajesty still under construction in France would be christened the Star Princess.

Sitmar’s two newbuildings in Italy would ultimately become the Crown Princess and Regal Princess when they entered service in 1990 and 1991, respectively.

Elements of Sitmar continued within the now greatly expanded Princess Cruises. For example, Sitmar’s well-known repeaters club survived, and loyal customers found many familiar officers and crew from Sitmar onboard Princess ships. In fact, at the end of 2007, Captain Giuseppe Romano, who had started with Sitmar in 1976, became Commodore of Princess Cruises.

But slowly the last vestiges of Sitmar faded away. Today, Sitmar Cruises is just a memory, especially among its loyal repeaters, But its legendary service and attention to even the smallest detail continue to be CT hallmarks for the cruise industry.

Sitmar earned praise for its children’s facilities and programs launched on the Fairsea and Fairwind.

T

Cruise Travel Archives

Cruise Travel Archives

days. The Fairwind sailed year-round from Florida, and the Fairsea split her year between Mexico in the winter and Alaska in the summer. Panama Canal crossings were also offered, and in 1978 Sitmar introduced the partial canal transit known as the Gatun Lake cruise.

Sitmar had successfully ridden the wave of growing demand for cruises to become one of the most popular lines and consistently had one of the highest repeat-passenger ratios in the industry. Yet Boris Vlasov initially took a conservative approach to expansion. In March 1979, Sitmar purchased a second-hand ship, the Principe Perfeito, which it planned to rebuild into a new 22,000- to 24,000-gt cruise ship (to be named Fairsky) that would have 800 to 900 berths. By comparison, competitors, including Home Lines and Carnival Cruise Lines, had ordered larger, newly built ships. Sitmar justified its strategy saying it would have lower start-up costs and be able to introduce its third ship faster (by the spring of 1981) versus its competitors.

The line soon realized it was making a critical mistake; recognizing that it had underestimated the scope of work required to rebuild the ship, the project was abandoned.

Instead, a year later in October 1980, Sitmar placed an order in France for a new 46,000gt ship able to accommodate 1,400 passengers; she would become the new Fairsky.

But still being conservative, at a time when the industry had converted to the more efficient diesel motors, the line ordered the ship with a steam propulsion plant, making her the last major passenger steamship built.

The Fairsky garnered rave reviews when she entered service in May 1984. She had the traditional Sitmar touches, including a pizzeria and an extensive youth-activity program, plus her cabins were spacious with generous storage space. Yet she was also contemporary with new features such as a large gym and outdoor running track as well a stylish decor in beige, gray, peach, pale green, soft rose, and cream colors, along with ample leather, brass, teak, marble, Venetian glass, and other elegant materials. In fact, she was considered so stylish that the line decided to also invest $25-million to upgrade both the Fairsea and Fairwind. Following the upgrades, some passengers complained that the food portions seemed smaller, but the now Italian and Portuguese crew maintained the line’s standards of quality and service. Travel agents and passengers alike agreed that Sitmar was once again an industry leader.

s our coach rounded the cruise terminal. After checking in SHIP OF THE MONTH outskirts of Civitavecchia and passing through the requi(the port for Rome), we site layers of port security, we caught our first glance of the Koningsdam in the sky- would finally be setting foot onboard HAL’s muchline of cruise ships crowding the busy harbor. Like anticipated first new vessel in almost seven years. so many of today’s newbuilds, the latest Holland Kicking off an entirely new platform of ships called America Line vessel is towering in stature, but her the Pinnacle Class, the Koningsdam is the progeny no nonsense, utilitarian lines are nicely tempered of a dynamic new pairing of maritime and hospitality

by HAL’s handsome midnight-blue hull livery, architects for HAL. Oslo-based Bjorn Storbratten sparkling white, balcony-lined superstructure, and (who has designed numerous mega-yachts and the trademark Nieuw Amsterdam ocean-liner medal- cruise ships) and New York-based Adam Tihany (who lions on her massive, grilled funnel. As the wind has fashioned or remodeled some of the world’s whipped at her signal flags and churned the seas most posh hotels) have teamed up to give the beyond the harbor’s stone breakwater into a white- Koningsdam a bevy of new features and a lighter, capped frenzy, we made our final approach to the more contemporary style. At 13 percent bigger than

A

KONINGSDAM

Holland America’s largest cruise liner ever is a stylish symphony for the senses

By Peter Knego / Photos By Michel Verdure

26

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

HAL’s next largest vessels (the 86,273-gross-ton Signature-Class Eurodam and Nieuw Amsterdam), the 99,836-gt/2,650-passenger Koningsdam is both an evolution of what came before her and a harbinger of new things for the 143-year-old cruise company.

Once onboard, we were greeted by a lineup of the ship’s staff, who warmly welcomed us to our home for the next six nights. Even though this was only her second commercial sailing, certain time-honored HAL touches were effortlessly in play, such as the dulcet serenading strings in the Atrium and the abundance of fresh flowers in various lobbies and public spaces.

Like the line’s earlier Signature- and Vista-Class ships, the Koningsdam has three wide stairtowers that, along with 12 elevators, provide vertical access

to her 13 passenger decks. Topsides, she shares similar features with her newer fleetmates, like an open observation and sunning deck, a net-covered Sports Court, an all-weather midships Lido Pool topped with a sliding glass Magrodome, and an open-air, aft-situated Sea View Pool. Much of her overall internal layout will likewise seem familiar to veteran HAL passengers, with the Crow’s Nest observation lounge and Explorations Cafe crowning the ship, the vast Greenhouse Spa/fitness center and Lido Market buffet positioned in the upper reaches of Lido Deck, and, in descending order, five full decks of guest accommodations, two decks dedicated to public rooms, and another deck of accommodations Continued on page 29 at the bottom of the ship.

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

27

DECK PLANS Holland America Line

KONINGSDAM

Observation Deck 12

Plaza Plaza Deck Deck 22 28

Promenade Deck 3

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

Lido Lido Deck Deck 99

Panorama Deck 10

Sun Deck 11

Neptune suites measure 465 to 855 square feet.

Single Ocean-views are 127 to 172 square feet.

Family Ocean-views are 222 to 231 square feet.

MS KONINGSDAM FACTS & FIGURES Company: Holland America Line.

Built: Fincantieri shipyard, Marghera, Italy; hull number 6241.

Country Of Registry: Holland.

Gross Tonnage: 99,836.

Length: 975 feet. Beam: 114.8 ft. Draft: 23 ft.

Speed: 18 knots (22.3 maximum).

Propulsion: Four MAK M43C 12-cylinder diesel engines that drive twin five-bladed XO Azipod propulsion units.

Passenger Capacity: 2,650, double occupancy.

Passenger Space Ratio: 37.7.

Normal Crew Size: 1,036.

Nationality Of Crew: International.

Cabins: 1,331 comprising one 1,290-squarefoot Pinnacle suite; two 465- to 855-sq.-ft.

Neptune Spa suites; 43 465- to 855-sq.-ft.

Neptune suites; 14 393- to 400-sq.-ft. Signature suites; 104 260- to 356-sq.-ft. Vista suites; 38 228- to 405-sq.-ft. Verandah Spa staterooms; 710 228- to 405-sq.-ft. Verandah staterooms; four 175- to 282-sq.-ft. Ocean-view Spa staterooms; 94 175- to 282-sq.-ft. Oceanview staterooms; 11 143- to 225-sq.-ft. Interior Spa staterooms; 266 143- to 225-sq.-ft. Interior staterooms; 12 127- to 172-sq.-ft. Single Ocean-view staterooms; 32 222- to 231-sq.-ft.

Family Ocean-view staterooms. There are 27 staterooms in varying categories that are wheelchair accessible with wider doors, ramps, and modified bathrooms. All staterooms feature individually controlled air-conditioning; safe; mini-bar; twin patented Mariner’s Dream Beds (with Euro-top mattresses and fine cotton linens) that can be converted into a double (excepting Single Ocean-view cabins); flatscreen TV with DVD player (and access to a complimentary DVD library); writing desk; bedside tables; under-bed storage; two closets; American- and European-style electrical sockets. All cabins are turned down twice daily, have complimentary fresh fruit, ice, shoeshine service (upon request), and 24-hour in-room dining service. Bathrooms have hair-dryers, lighted magnifying mirrors, massage shower heads, Egyptian cotton towels and bathrobes, and Elemis amenities (shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, soap, moisturizer). All cabins are non-smoking.

Public Rooms: Crow’s Nest (observation

lounge, seats 269); Explorations Cafe (coffee bar and reference library, seats 30); Tamarind (Asian Fusion specialty restaurant, $25 surcharge, seats 140); Gelato stand; Lido Market (casual buffet, seats 388); New York Deli & Pizza (casual deli-style eatery); Canaletto (Italian specialty restaurant, $15 surcharge, seats 60); Neptune Lounge (concierge lounge for Neptune and Pinnacle suite guests, seats 35); Dive In (poolside grill); World Stage (main showroom with a 270-degree video screen, seats 667); Queen’s Lounge (double-deck, entertainment venue with live rock performances curated by B.B. King’s Blues Club, seats 330); Grand Dutch Cafe (Dutch-themed specialty coffee and snack bar, seats 68); The Dining Room (main restaurant, seats 1,098); Billboard Onboard (venue for live music curated by Billboard magazine, seats 165); Lincoln Center Stage/Explorer’s Bar (venue for live classic music curated by The Lincoln Center, seats 148); Notes whiskey bar; Pinnacle Grill (Pacific Northwest-themed steakhouse, $35 surcharge, seats 118); Sel De Mer (extracharge French seafood restaurant, priced a la carte, seats 44); Ocean Bar (seats 63); Culinary Arts Center (cooking demonstration venue and specialty restaurant, $39 surcharge includes wine, seats 74).

Facilities/Features: Fully air conditioned; stabilized; 13 passenger decks; 12 passenger elevators; The Retreat (adults-only deck area with private cabanas for hire); all-weather Lido Pool (under sliding glass Magrodome); openair Sea View Pool; jogging track (12 times around equals a mile); Sports Court (basketball, tennis, volleyball); outdoor cardio and weight-training machines; Greenhouse Spa (saunas, massage rooms for singles and couples, dry-float suite with massage option, thermal suites with hydro-therapy pool, steam rooms, aromatic room, heated ceramic lounges, relaxation area); Greenhouse Salon (beauty parlor, barber shop, manicure and pedicure area); Club HAL (children’s play area including The Loft teen center with age-specific activities for 3- to 7-year-olds, 8- to 12-yearolds, and 13- to 18-year-olds); Fitness Center (gym with free weights, weight machines, cardio machines, Ryde indoor cycling room, TRX suspension training room); full wrap-around

promenade deck (three times around equals a mile); Art Gallery; Casino; The Shops Of Holland America; future-cruises desk; guest-services desk; Photo Gallery; Digital Workshop (computer training center); Merabella (luxury shop); Blend (wine-blending and -tasting venue sponsored by Chateau St. Michelle, $129 per-person surcharge); Journeys Ashore (shore-excursions desk); Stuyvesant (seats 23), Hudson I (seats 29), Hudson II (seats 25), Half Moon I (seats 36), and Half Moon II (seats 29) meeting rooms.

Money Matters: The Koningsdam operates as a cashless society with U.S. dollars as the currency. Each guest is provided with a personalized ID card that is used for all onboard purchases. Upon embarkation, an initial authorization will be levied on each guest’s credit card (Visa, MasterCard, or American Express) or a cash deposit will be required. At the end of the cruise, each guest receives a final statement, and the account may be settled by credit card, cash, or traveler’s check (personal checks are not accepted onboard). Gratuities of $12.50 ($13.50 for suite occupants), perperson/per-day, are added to each guest’s account and automatically billed at the end of the cruise. A 15-percent gratuity is automatically added to beverage purchases.

Itineraries/Fares: From November 2016 through March 2017, the Koningsdam will be sailing from Fort Lauderdale on varied Caribbean itineraries ranging from seven to 21 nights. On April 2, the ship makes a 13-night trans-Atlantic crossing from Fort Lauderdale to Rome and will remain in European-based service, offering varied itineraries ranging from seven to 30 nights, through September. On October 3, 2017, the ship crosses from Rome to Fort Lauderdale to begin a season of Caribbean cruises of varying length through March of 2018. Published fares, per-person/ double-occupancy, range from $699 for an inside cabin on a nine-night Caribbean cruise to $14,949 for 30-night European sailing in the Pinnacle Suite.

For More Information: Contact your travel agent or Holland America Line (Cruise Travel Magazine), 300 Elliott Ave. West, Seattle, WA 98119; log on to www.hollandamerica.com; or call 877-932-4259.

KONINGSDAM

board sides. While this spoils some of the traditional effect, the bottom line is that it means fewer staterooms have obstructed sea views.

The two lower public decks, Promenade and Plaza, are laid out similarly to the corresponding decks of the Signature/Vista ships, beginning with the double-deck showroom forward and concluding with the doubledeck dining room aft. In between, there are

familiar HAL spaces like the Casino, the Ocean Bar, The Shops Of Holland America, the Atrium, an art gallery, and a photo gallery.

Continued from page 27

Thankfully, despite the current cruise industry trend otherwise, HAL kept the fully encircling promenade on Promenade Deck— but not without compromise. The walkway is inboard of the ship’s tenders, which obscure the views along most of the port and star-

S

o, what actually is different about the Koningsdam? For starters, the new decor, which dispenses with the dark color schemes, antiques, and gilt of yore in favor of a much lighter, more contemporary vibe.

Continued on next page

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

29

At night, the elegant Queen’s Lounge transforms into the B.B. King’s Blues Club.

KONINGSDAM Continued from previous page

A trio of adjacent venues just aft of the World Stage on Plaza Deck, collectively entitled the Music Walk, offers up three distinct types of musical diversion, all cosponsored by big-name entities. Lincoln Center Stage is the go-to for classical recitals by musicians that are vetted in a partnership with New York’s Lincoln Center. The performances on our cruise were outstanding; but with the venue’s open floor

dards, rhythm & blues, country, rock, and pop.

At night, the elegant Queen’s Lounge becomes the B.B. King’s Blues Club, with its All-Stars Band hailing from the famed venue on Memphis’s Beale Street. Three energetic nightly blues and classic-rock performances rendered by the eight-member ensemble were among the week’s highlights.

Among the ship’s myriad bars is a new venue called Notes. Located in the midst of the Music Walk, it offers up 120 whiskeys and whiskey cocktails. Wine connoisseurs also have Blend, a new tasting and blending room sponsored by the Chateau Ste. Michelle winery in Washington state. Guests can blend their own private bottle to take home or enjoy onboard for $129.

Underneath the Magrodome, there is an additional deck with terraces lined with cushioned loungers and cabanas overlooking the pool. The extra ceiling height here provides space for a high-definition LED screen for nightly movie viewings.

Despite all the pluses, some HAL aficionados may be disappointed that the reference library in the Explorations Lounge is tiny; and unlike most of the line’s ships, there are scant nods to the company’s storied history, save for a model of the 1951-built Ryndam and just two paintings by renowned maritime artist Stephen Card, all discreetly tucked away in the annex aft of the Crow’s Nest bar.

Modern, occasionally provocative artwork, taking much of its inspiration from music, beckons from the stairtower landings and throughout the public spaces. There is a nod to every style of music, from classical to heavy metal, in media that ranges from paintings of iconic album covers and giant cassette tapes to sculptures of string instruments.

The music theme infuses the architecture, as well, with some public spaces evoking musical instruments. In the circular Atrium, fan-like metal screens emulate the strings of a harp; and in the Queen’s Lounge, the curved wooden bulkheads suggest the innards of a violin.

With the new look comes several variations on HAL’s standard enhe Koningsdam ushers in four tertainment, beginning with the new eateries to the HAL fold, World Stage, the ship’s main showincluding Sel De Mer, the first to room. Configured like a theater-inbe priced on an a-la-carte basis. the-round with a 270-degree LED Located on Plaza Deck near the The Lido Pool has a retractable Magrodome cover for bad weather. screen backdrop, its stage producAtrium, the reservations-required tions are now enhanced with highFrench seafood brasserie is open definition videos. Veering from traditional plan and proximity to the main passageway, nightly between 5:30 and 11 p.m. In addition Broadway-style fare, new shows devised for noise from passersby and the nearby public to daily specials that are posted on a chalkareas—especially the Casino, which is one board near the entrance, there is a menu with the Koningsdam include One World and Musicology, which combine world music deck above an open spiral staircase—can everything from crab salad ($13) and baked and dance styles. The World Stage is also the be distracting. Directly across from Lincoln escargot ($7) appetizers to main courses like setting for I-Max-style screenings of award- Center, Billboard Onboard is a lounge with whole Dover sole in meuniere sauce ($25) winning BBC Earth features, including back-to-back pianos offering twice nightly and Maine lobster ($32).

Frozen Planet Live and the BBC-sponsored renditions of Billboard chart hits, with a On most HAL ships, the Culinary Arts varying range of themes, such as stan- Center is just a cooking demonstration venue; game show, What On Earth. but at 8 p.m. each evening on the KoningsThe Crow’s Nest observation lounge reflects a new, lighter, more contemporary decor for the line. dam, it transforms into a farm-to-table extratariff “show” eatery where an attending chef describes each course before it is prepared in an open kitchen. At first glance, the cover price seems steep at $39 per-person, but with the included, unlimited organic wine and the quality ingredients, it actually ends up being an excellent value. The menu changes on a weekly basis but includes two starters (such as a roasted carrot soup and a broccoli/baked ricotta salad), a choice of three main courses (meat, fish, and vegetarian), and either a dessert or a cheese plate.

The complimentary, new New York Deli

T

& Pizza overlooks the aft portion of the Lido Pool on Panorama Deck. Between 6:30 and 10:30 a.m., it serves up a choice of bagels and spreads before the full deli experience begins at 11:30 a.m. with a selection of freshly prepared sandwiches to order, salads, and pizza. Then from 8 p.m. until 1 a.m., pizza, nachos, dessert, and popcorn are served.

The Grand Dutch Cafe is another new venue with complimentary Dutch-themed snacks, ranging from pancakes to pickled herring. Located on the starboard side of the Atrium on Promenade Deck, its specialty coffees and teas come with a modest price tag, as do those in the Explorations Cafe on Observation Deck.

The Koningsdam’s Pinnacle Grill is an especially attractive restaurant on the port side of the Plaza Deck level of the Atrium.

The cover charge for the popular gold-and blue-hued Pacific Northwest-themed steakhouse is $35 with an additional charge for certain selections like the President’s Cut 36ounce bone-in ribeye ($59) and Maine lobster tail ($20).

Well worth its $25 cover, the Asian Fusion Tamarind Restaurant serves up everything from sushi and sashimi, Thai chicken soup, satay samplers, and vegetable spring rolls to entrees representing the four Chinese elements of water (fish, seafood), fire (spicy dishes), wood (varied dishes served on or cooked with wooden implements), and earth (vegetarian selections).

Perhaps because we opted to dine in Tamarind twice, we never managed an evening at Canaletto during our limited time onboard.

Located starboardside at the forward end of the Lido Market, it is open nightly and carries a $15 cover charge for antipasti, numerous pasta selections, and other Italian specialties..

The complimentary Lido Market buffetstyle dining venue is open for breakfast between 6:30 and 10 a.m., lunch from noon to 4 p.m., dinner from 6 to 9 p.m., and latenight snacks from 10:30 to 11:30 p.m. Its evolved design on the Koningsdam features dedicated action stations for sandwiches, salads, comfort food, international selections, and desserts. Note that it is not self-service, but the well-trained and intuitive staff responds quickly with requested selections and quantities.

Dive In is the complimentary poolside buffet offering burgers and snacks from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., a few steps away from Gelato, which tempts with handcrafted Italian-style ice cream for $2 per-scoop between 11:30 a.m. and 11 p.m.

W

ithout a doubt our favorite space onboard the Koningsdam is the Dining Room, with its grand staircase, striking twodeck-high wine cellar centerpiece, and

The ribs in the dramatic, double-deck main Dining Room emulate the inner framework of a violin.

ribbed supports that emulate the inner framework of a violin. (The design is a variation on Adam Tihany’s epic restaurants onboard Celebrity Cruises’ Solstice-Class ships.)

With its warm yellow and crimson accents, the complimentary, full-service restaurant is as inviting as it is spectacular. Open-seating breakfast is served between 7:30 and 9:30 a.m. As You Wish (open-seating) dinner is offered between 5:15 and 9:15 p.m., while

The adults-only Retreat offers private cabanas for rent.

fixed-seating dinner (at the same table and with the same wait staff) is served at 5:45 and 8 p.m. In port, the Dining Room is closed for lunch; but on sea days, it offers open-seating lunch between noon and 1 p.m. (Dining times may vary depending on itinerary.)

There are nine overall stateroom categories, ranging from 143-square-foot inside cabins to a palatial 1,290-sq.-ft. Pinnacle

suite. New and exclusive to the Koningsdam are 32 family-style ocean-view cabins that can sleep five with convertible sofas, an upper berth (that unfolds from the ceiling), and a queen-size bed. Located on the lowest level, Main Deck, they also feature two washrooms—one with a tub, shower, sink, and toilet, and the other with a shower and sink—as well as an expanded wardrobe area.

Also exclusive to Koningsdam are a dozen new ocean-view single cabins that are situated in the far forward realm of Main Deck. Starting at 127-sq.-ft., they are a tad on the small side but answer a need for single travelers who don’t wish to pay a supplement.

Although we tried our best, with our busy Mediterranean cruise segment (followed by an additional three nights spent onboard during the ship’s gala christening in Holland), we were hard-pressed to partake of all that the Koningsdam has to offer. Even so, what stood out yet more impressively than all of the new bells and whistles was the friendliness and dedication of her hard-working crew, who made us feel welcome and at home, whether ondeck, in her lounges and restaurants, or in our stateroom.

Kudos to the Koningsdam for ushering in a new era for HAL without compromising the high standards and most of the line’s traditional elements that have been cherished by so many guests for so many years. She will be followed by a nearly identical sister, the CT Nieuw Statendam, in late 2018.

A first for Holland America is Sel De Mar, an a-la-carte priced French seafood brasserie.

CRUISE NEWS United States Will Not Return After a six-month evaluation costing more than $1-million, Crystal Cruises announced that it would not be returning the SS United States to passenger service. “While the SS United States is structurally sound, the technical and commercial challenges associated with returning the historic liner to service as a modern cruise ship have unfortunately proven insurmountable,” the line said in a statement.

“The hurdles that would face us when trying to bring a 65-year-old vessel up to modern safety, design, and international regulatory compliance have proven just too great to clear in both a technically and commercially responsible manner,” said Crystal president and chief executive officer Edie Rodriguez.

Added Susan Gibbs, executive director of the SS United States Conservancy, “While it has been determined that Crystal’s exciting vision for the ship would have required overcoming various technical hurdles and major changes to her historic design, the studies performed have confirmed the ship is structurally sound.”

As part of their evaluation, experts inspected the vessel’s hull below the water line, examined her fuel and salt-water ballast tanks, and conducted a series of engineering studies to determine what would be needed

to bring her back into service. Among their findings was that while the ship remained “remarkably intact and structurally sound,” modifying the ship for today’s standards for oceangoing service would have required significant changes to the hull that would pose stability challenges. Additionally, the installation of a modern, state-of-the-art dieselelectric propulsion plant would have necessitated altering of the existing shaft lines and rebuilding about 25 percent of the hull to reconfigure the ship to a twin-shaft/twinrudder arrangement.

Crystal Cruises has said it will contribute $350,000 to help the Conservancy preserve the United States through the remainder of the year. The ship remains docked in Philadelphia, and the Conservancy will now resume efforts to repurpose the vessel as a stationary attraction.

More information can be found by logging on to the Conservancy’s web site at www.ssusc.org or by calling 888-488-7787.

NCL Adds More Margaritavilles More cruisers can now get their “fins up,” as Norwegian Cruise Line has expanded its exclusive partnership with Margaritaville.

As a part of The Norwegian Edge, a $400million investment program dedicated to delivering an exceptional onboard experience,

A Cruiser’s Guide To The

PANAMA CANAL The complete story of “The Big Ditch” is now available on DVD. History: See how Balboa’s “discovery” of the Pacific Ocean led to various proposals to build a canal across the Panama Isthmus, with a French company being the first to make a significant attempt at construction.

Construction: Follow the United States’ 10-year effort to construct what has been officially designated one of “The Seven Wonders Of The Modern World.”

Operation: Take a pictorial transit of the Panama Canal, with explanations of how its facilities function.

Shoreside Attractions: Enjoy scenes from several attractions relative to the Panama Canal, including some not included on the usual shipsponsored shore excursions.

Allen Wrenn, Civil Engineer, has had a longtime interest in the Panama Canal.

Since 1998 he has shared his interest and knowledge with fellow passengers onboard cruise ships. This DVD offers an expanded version of his shipboard presentations, making it possible for you to enjoy them in the comfort of your home.

DVD running time: 3 hours 45 minutes

Only $40.95

(postage paid)

(Canadian & foreign orders add $5.00 additional for international shipping; U.S. funds only.)

Make checks or money orders payable to Cruise Travel and send to:

Cruise Travel, Dept. DVD PC, 990 Grove St., Ste. 400, Evanston, IL 60201-6510 (Please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery. IL residents add 10% sales tax.)

NCL introduced new Margaritaville At Sea restaurants onboard the Norwegian Getaway and Norwegian Breakaway this fall.

Building on its success and popularity onboard the line’s newest ship, Norwegian Escape, Margaritaville At Sea onboard the Norwegian Getaway and Norwegian Breakaway bring to life nostalgic island moments with a tropical menu that features signature items like the Cheeseburger In Paradise and Who’s To Blame Margarita, available a la carte, in an open-air eatery offering stunning ocean views. Margaritaville At Sea debuted in September onboard the Norwegian Getaway in the former Flamingo Grill and in October onboard the Norwegian Breakaway in the former Uptown Grill.

“Norwegian Cruise Line has been bringing guests to paradise for nearly 50 years,” said Andy Stuart, president and chief operating officer for the line. “With the expansion of our partnership with Margaritaville to our Breakaway-Class ships, our guests will now be able to enjoy the island lifestyle before their ship has even left port.”

For more information contact your travel agent or Norwegian Cruise Line (Cruise Travel Magazine), 7655 Corporate Center Dr., Miami, FL 33126; call 866-234-7350; or log on to www.ncl.com.

Carnival To Build Ships In China Carnival Corporation & plc recently announced that its cruise joint venture in China has signed a non-binding memorandum of agreement (MOA) to order the industry’s first new cruise ships built in China for the Chinese market. The MOA is subject to several conditions including closing of the joint venture, financing, and other key terms.

As part of the new MOA, Carnival Corp.’s cruise joint venture in China agreed to order two new cruise ships to be built by a newly formed China-based shipbuilding joint venture between China’s largest shipbuilder, China State Shipbuilding Corporation (CSSC), and Italy-based Fincantieri S.p.A., the world’s largest cruise shipbuilding company. The MOA also grants Carnival Corp.’s cruise joint venture the option to order two additional China-built cruise ships.

Carnival Corp.’s cruise joint venture in China will operate the new ships as part of its plans to launch the first multi-ship domestic cruise brand in China. Based on Carnival Corp.’s Vista-Class platform, the design for the new ships will be tailored for the new Chinese cruise brand and the specific tastes of Chinese travelers. The first of these ships is expected for delivery in 2022.

Carnival Corp.’s cruise joint venture—a partnership announced last fall with CSSC and China Investment Capital Corporation (CIC Capital) in which Carnival Corp. holds Continued on page 49

32

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

HOMEPORT SPOTLIGHT

Danny Lehman/Norwegian Cruise Line

If you’re planning to cruise roundtrip from Puerto Rico, you won’t need a passport—a passport card or other WHTI (Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative) compliant ID will do. Even so, the governmentsponsored Puerto Rico Tourism Company says, “A word of advice to U.S. cruise travelers: whether you need your passport or not, it is recommended you bring it.” On the other hand, because Puerto Rico is an American territory, the United States dollar is the island’s official currency, and the greenback is accepted everywhere, so there are no concerns about changing money. A taxi from the airport to the piers, for example, costs $19 for up to five passengers (plus a charge of $1 per suitcase, $2 gas surcharge, and $1 airport fee). The eight-mile drive to the ship takes Cruise ships visiting San Juan, such as NCL’s Norwegian Gem, pass by the historic fortress El Morro. about 20 minutes.

Before setting sail, a little sightseeing in Old San Juan is a must.

Symbolized by El Morro—the Spanish fortress that since the 1500s has guarded the old walled city—the historic section is easily explored on Adventure, Dawn, and More Take Up Residence foot, although its congested, cobblestone streets are narrow and uneven, In Southern Caribbean Gateway and are known to become choked with tourists when several ships are

By M.T. Schwartzman tied up. There’s a free trolley whose El Morro route travels among the or an Eastern or Western Caribbean The Seas. The line has invested $61-million highlights and forts of Old San Juan; it can cruise, Florida’s homeports are often the to update the Voyager-Class vessel, original- be boarded across the street from pier #4. jumping off points of choice. But for a more ly built in 2001, with an array of fresh fea- Shore excursions may be available for those distant Southern Caribbean cruise, Puerto tures including new waterslides, surf simula- debarking in San Juan. For example, RCI Rico’s San Juan has long been the preferred tor, and children’s waterpark. Among the offers three tours that include airport dropgateway. San Juan’s more southerly position- new dining and entertainment venues are a off, including the Bacardi Distillery (2.5 ing allows for a more port-intensive week- Japanese alternative restaurant, steakhouse, hours/$49 adult), El Yunque Rain Forest long itinerary instead of the 10- or 11-day and Latin lounge. The ship also received Hike (5 hours/$49), and San Juan City Tour sailings from Miami or Fort Lauderdale, more than 100 new staterooms during her (3 hours/$44).

Rich in over six centuries of historic which require more days at sea. Cruises to makeover. Starting in November, the Adventhe Southern Caribbean (also sometimes ture Of The Seas sails seven-day Southern sites, Old San Juan’s attractions for cruise known as the Deep Caribbean) tend to be Caribbean roundtrips calling at St. Maarten, travelers are almost too many to mention.

One interesting tidbit is that Spanish Conmore exotic and are in demand especially St. Kitts, Antigua, St. Lucia, and Barbados.

Next year also brings more new deploy- quistador Ponce De Leon was the first govamong repeat passengers looking to call in ments to San Juan. Beginning in November ernor of Puerto Rico, an office he held less-visited Caribbean ports.

According to the Puerto Rico Tourism 2017, Norwegian Cruise Line’s 2,224-pax twice—from 1509 to 1512 and again from Company web site, “The Port of San Juan is Norwegian Dawn replaces the Norwegian 1515 to 1519; he is buried in the Cathedral the busiest ocean terminal in the Caribbean Gem on seasonal sailings from the port, of- Of San Juan Bautista—one of the oldest and the second largest cruise port in the fering seven-, 10-, and 11-day Southern buildings in Old San Juan and reported to Western Hemisphere.” Nearly 20 cruise lines Caribbean itineraries from mid November be the second-oldest cathedral in the ranging from AIDA Cruises to Silversea through early January. Ports-of-call will Americas (the oldest being in the DoCruises bring more than one-million passen- include Barbados, Martinique, St. Kitts, St. minican Republic, although there seems to gers to Puerto Rico each year, the company Maarten, and St. Thomas. A new line makes be some archeological uncertainty about adds. Among them are brands representing its debut in San Juan during winter 2017/ that). The governor’s mansion, meanwhile, every market segment in the industry includ- 2018 as well: Two ships from Viking Ocean is said to be the oldest such executive resiing Azamara Club Cruises, Carnival Cruise Cruises, the 930-pax sisters Viking Sea and dence in the New World.

For more information on visiting Puerto Line, Celebrity Cruises, Club Med, Costa Viking Sky, sail 11-day roundtrip cruises Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Holland America from the Puerto Rican capital October Rico, contact your travel agent or the Puerto Line, Oceania Cruises, Princess Cruises, through March, while a one-time 22-day Rico Tourism Company (Cruise Travel MagRegent Seven Seas Cruises, Seabourn Cruise itinerary ventures as far as the Amazon azine), P.O. Box 913, Boqueren, PR 00622; River. And in December 2017, MSC log on to the island’s official tourism web Line, and SeaDream Yacht Club.

The “newest” ship to homeport in San Juan Cruises’ 4,140-pax MSC Seaside will visit site at www.seepuertorico.com; or call 800is Royal Caribbean International’s recently San Juan on her inaugural 20-night trans- 866-7827. For sailing schedules, contact CT your cruise line. refurbished 3,114-passenger Adventure Of Atlantic crossing en route to Miami.

SAN JUAN

F

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

33

ONLY A DAY IN

TAIPEI CITY The vibrant capital of Taiwan is filled with natural, cultural, and man-made wonders

By Ginger Dingus aipei City, Taiwan, is packed with surprises. Asia-bound cruisers will discover stunning mountain scenery, steamy hot springs at spa resorts, ornate temples, and exotic dining delights. Add eye-popping skyscrapers and the world’s finest collection of ancient Chinese art and artifacts. It’s all happening in the capital city of 2.6 million, located at the northern end of a subtropical, tear-shaped island.

Taiwan—officially the Republic Of China and once called Ilha Formosa, “the beautiful isle”—has come a long way since I first cruised to this compact country off the coast of mainland China. Back in the 1970s, I voyaged around the world as an instructor on the shipboard college World Campus Afloat. In

T

those days, cruisers docking in Taiwan’s port of Keelung, the gateway to Taipei, were greeted with pastoral scenes. I was intrigued by farmers with water buffalo plowing rice paddies using handmade tools. One evening, I sat enraptured by classic Taiwanese opera.

Today, you’re more likely to drop by a nightclub to hear karaoke or a band playing pop music. And those water buffalo? You can still see them: they appear in museums in paintings and photos of a bygone era.

Fortunately, traditional temples and bathhouses remain. You can explore them on your own (Keelung port is a 40- to 50-minute train ride from central Taipei) or by joining excursions booked onboard your ship.

No matter what else you plan for your day

Towering 1,667 feet tall, Taipei 101 was the world’s tallest building when it opened in 2004, and it still lays claim as the world’s tallest green building.

(Spread Photo By Sepavo/Dreamstime.com)

34 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

Ginger Dingus

Ginger Dingus

It makes some queasy, but most have fun in the mirror maze at the top of Taipei 101. Dominating the city’s skyline, Taipei 101 resembles a bamboo stalk.

in Taipei, make one of your first stops Taipei 101. When it opened in 2004, the 1,667foot-high Taipei 101 was the world’s tallest skyscraper, a title it held until Dubai’s Burj Khalifa opened in 2010. Now most rate it number five in height, depending upon the parameters. However, can’t-miss new signs proudly proclaim it to be the world’s tallest green building.

Tickets in hand, you enter the elevator on the fifth floor of Taipei 101, named for its 101 above-ground stories. “It’s exactly 37 seconds to the top,” boasts Taiwanese guide Jerry Chen, noting this was the fastest elevator on the planet for a decade. The top for visitors is actually floor 89 where, thanks to the 360-degree floor-to-ceiling window-wall,

Taipei sprawls at your feet. After admiring the sights from all directions, stroll past the chic shops selling pricey coral and jade and down the stairs to the descending elevator on floor 88.

To the Chinese, 88 is a particularly lucky number. The placement of this exit was carefully planned, as was the symbolic architecture of the pale green exterior. Taipei 101 resembles a slender stalk of bamboo. Many Asian admire bamboo for its strength and ability to bend in the wind. Similarly, the structure was built to sway and survive earthquakes unscathed.

Another Taipei must-do is lunch at Din Tai Fung, a popular dim-sum restaurant chain specializing in steamed pork dumplings since

1972. One brightly lit branch is conveniently located at the base of Taipei 101. Watch workers as they weigh each ingredient and fold each dumpling a precise number of times for uniformity. While waiters may not all speak fluent English, you can order by pointing to pictures on the menu. Be aware, tipping is not customary, but restaurants such as Din Tai Fung often add a 10 percent service fee.

Should you be feeling thirsty, try a refreshing bubble tea, also known as pearl milk tea. Bubble tea, a 1980s Taiwanese invention, is a popular drink found at special tea shops throughout the country. Named for the chewy tapioca balls at the bottom of the Continued on next page

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

35

Ginger Dingus Photos

Lunch at Din Tai Fung, a popular dim-sum restaurant chain, is a must. You can watch the chefs carefully prepare and fold the perfectly shaped dumplings.

TAIPEI CITY Continued

glass, the tea is sweet, served cold, and sipped through a straw.

Your next stop should be the National Palace Museum, home to the world’s premier collection of imperial Chinese art and artifacts. By a twist of political fate, Taiwan gained possession of the finest treasures from Beijing’s Forbidden City. During the 1949 civil unrest, Chiang Kai-shek (president of the Republic Of China from 1950 to 1975) had the precious objects shipped to Taiwan from a remote area of China where they were temporarily stored for safe-keeping. The collection is overwhelming, though only a fraction of the 600,000 pieces covering 5,000 years of Chinese civilization is on display at any given time. Try to go early or late as the museum is almost always crowded with tour groups, mainly from the People’s Republic Of China on the mainland.

History buffs can watch the hourly (from

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Ships That Call: Princess Cruises and Royal Caribbean International call at Keelung most frequently. Other cruise lines stopping during Asian voyages include Celebrity, Crystal, Cunard, Oceania, Regent, Seabourn, Silversea, and others.

Weather: The hottest (temperatures in the low 90s) and wettest months in Taipei are July, August, and September. December through March is cooler with high temperatures in the 60s. An umbrella comes in handy for both rain and shine.

Money Matters: The currency is the Taiwan New Dollar (NT$ or TWD). $1 U.S. is equal to about 32.7 NT$. Credit cards are widely accepted. You can find ATM’s at the 7-Eleven stores, which seem to pop up about every other block.

For More Information: Contact your travel agent or the Taiwan Tourism Bureau by logging on to www.go2taiwan.net.

9 a.m. to 5 p.m.) changing of the guard at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. The Chinese palace-style hall with white exterior walls and a blue tile roof honors the former president, whose massive bronze statue observes the proceedings. Take time to visit the memorial’s exhibition rooms for a fascinating look into Chiang Kai-shek’s life through photographs, documents, and mementos, including his two Cadillacs. utting-edge architecture and design are highlights at the Songshan Cultural & Creative Park. The site evolved from a shuttered tobacco factory. Along with art studios, there is a tranquil Baroque Garden for sitting and catching your breath. For refreshments, excellent Italian cuisine with a Taiwanese touch is served at TMSK Restaurant, once the factory’s employee cafeteria.

Book-lovers could spend hours exploring Eslite bookstore. It’s open 24/7 and has numerous tea and coffee outlets to keep you going. Dihua Street, on the other hand, provides a glimpse into the past. The narrow

C

Healing mineral springs abound near Taipei; the Beitou Hot Springs (below) has a museum, or book a private tub at plush Tien Lai Spring Resort (inset).

Ginger Dingus Photos Ginger Dingus

street’s open-front shops are the place to purchase Chinese herbs, traditional medicines, dried foods, teas, and incense.

Not far from Dihua Street, join the crowds of local worshipers who call daily at the traditional Longshan Temple to light incense sticks and appeal to the deities. As colorful as it is ornate, Longshan Temple has been renovated three times since being built in 1738.

The most recent update took place in 1919 and combined Taoist and Buddhist religions in one temple. It’s a friendly place with an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Tables set around the various pavilions overflow with offerings of food and flowers, and dozens of festive lanterns hang from the rafters. Fortune tellers set up shop in the surrounding streets; check first in case you need an interpreter.

Should walking around Taipei leave your feet aching, drop into one of the shops displaying a large foot on the sign out front.

Treating your feet and legs to a 40-minute massage will leave you relaxed at a cost of less than $20 U.S. Take your foot massage to the next level by planning a soothing soak at one of the area’s hot-spring spas. The road between Keelung and Taipei winds through a wilderness of forests, mountains, and healing mineral springs.

To better understand the history of spas in Taiwan, begin by visiting the Beitou Hot Spring Museum. You can reach it by Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) metro to Xinbeitou station if it’s not on your tour. Although use of the healing waters dates to aboriginal tribes, it was the Japanese who opened the first public bathhouses during their occupation of the island from 1895 to 1945. The museum itself was originally an elegant brick bathhouse, built in 1913 and East Asia’s largest in its day. The Romanesque communal bath adorned with stained-glass windows was restored to its former glory in the 1990s.

Dip your toes in the toasty stream running behind the museum. Better yet, take a break at Tien Lai Spring Resort. The luxury resort, perched on a scenic plateau at the edge of Yangmingshan National Park, offers cruise passengers the chance to bathe in outdoor pools brimming with mineral water. Bring your swimsuit and a cap (required). There are also individual hot-spring cottages where, with an advance booking, you can sink into a

Lovers of Chinese art marvel at the amazing collection on display at the National Palace Museum.

stone tub filled with spring water in complete privacy. A number of cruise lines offer excursions to Tien Lai. If your ship stays in port into the wee hours, stroll through Taipei’s Shilin night market or Keelung’s Miaokou market. Catering more to locals than tourists, night mar-

kets are a maze of stalls selling everything from traditional foods and snacks to clothes and electronics, all at bargain prices. Taste the aptly named stinky tofu if you dare; the smelly, fermented concoction is definitely an acquired taste—and might number among your memories of a day in Taipei City. CT

Ginger Dingus

Ginger Dingus Photos

History buffs should visit the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, honoring Taiwan’s famous leader; the hourly changing of the guard is a popular photo-op.

Tea shops and other traditional businesses on Dihua Street provide a glimpse into Taipei’s past.

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

37

CRUISE OF THE MONTH

REFLECTIONS OF THE BLUE DANUBE

Sailing Europe’s Legendary “River Of Kings” In Luxury With Tauck Photo-Feature By Peter Knego t was very tempting to succumb to the draining jet lag of our 20-plus hour commute from California to Vienna, skip the gala introductory event for Tauck’s “Danube Reflections” cruise-tour, and call it a night.

After all, it was pouring rain outside, and that bed in our stately room at the Ritz Carlton Hotel looked so inviting.

But 45 minutes later, our nagging exhaustion was eclipsed by awe as we entered the

I

38 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

Palais Pallavicini, the Neoclassical 18th-century palace where Mozart and his rival Salieri held musical duels and where Orson Welles’s classic The Third Man was filmed.

We scaled a grand staircase that led to a magnificent hall, where we were welcomed by our three Tauck directors—Bara, Sinead, and Michael—as trays of champagne circulated and a pianist played.

Soon, we were seated in an adjoining sa-

lon with a delightfully diverse group of fellow travelers. At our table, there was a former editor from Rolling Stone and his wife, a Cleveland-based doctor and his wife, a philanthropic mother and daughter from Pasadena, and a wonderfully edgy fashion designer from Indianapolis. Four beautifully prepared dinner courses were presented between performances by a stately soprano and a dapper tenor plus skillfully executed

On a tour from Linz, Austria, we had time to scale the medieval Castle Tower in Cesky Krumlov, an UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Czech Republic.

dips and plies from a local ballet troupe. The quality, precision, and attention to detail were staggering, not to mention the discreet dispatch of my vegetarian selections as the wines poured, the gilt glowed, and crystal chandeliers soared.

The tempo for our 11-night journey had been expertly set, and we immediately understood why at least two-thirds of our fellow travelers were loyal Tauck repeaters. The

Connecticut-based company, which celebrated its 90th anniversary in 2015, provides an all-inclusive roster of deluxe travel and cruise experiences from African safaris and national-park tours to small-ship voyages and European river journeys. Almost everything on our trip—from transfers to luxury hotel accommodations, most meals onshore, cruise accommodation (including all onboard meals, wine, beer, spirits, and other

beverages, as well as unlimited Wi-Fi), guided tours, cultural events, and tips—was included in the fare. The published rates are not modest, beginning at $4,890 per-person, but the overall quality and value for the money cannot be beat.

After breakfast in the hotel lobby the following morning, we enjoyed another infusion of Tauck’s lavish indulgence with a Continued on next page

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

39

Situated forward, the elegant Bar is surrounded with wide windows.

The Compass Rose Restaurant accommodates all guests in a single seating.

REFLECTIONS OF THE BLUE DANUBE Continued

tour of the Upper Belvedere Palace, its galleries brimming with Klimpt, Schiele, and Kokoschka masterworks. We then had the rest of the day to do as we pleased, exploring Vienna’s historic Centrum on foot before finally catching up with that ever-elusive sleep.

The third day began with a drive through the Vienna Forest and a walking tour with lunch in the charming hamlet of Baden Bei Wien before Tauck delivered us to our warmly lit ship moments before a thunderstorm rolled through. ur home for the next week, the 2014built/2,600-gross-ton MS Savor, is the second in Tauck’s quartet of state-of-the-art Inspiration-Class river ships. In order to transit the major lock systems and low-lying bridges of the Danube River, the 443-footlong/37-foot-wide vessel is limited to the same general dimensions as most European river cruisers—many of which accommodate up to 190 guests—while she carries only 130. The extra space is dedicated to overall larger cabins and a few bells and whistles that the more crowded ships do not have, like a gym, spa, salon, and Jacuzzi.

The Savor has four guest decks, beginning at the top with Sun Deck, which boasts a forward observation platform, a Jacuzzi, a small putting green, a walking track, and plenty of turf-lined, sheltered and open observation and sunning areas.

O

Like her three sisters, Tauck’s MS Savor (shown tied up in Regensburg) carries only 130 passengers.

The next level down, Diamond Deck, begins with a forward observation terrace and continues with a lineup of handsomely decorated public spaces, whose decor is a contemporary take on Regency style—rich and restrained, with crystal light fixtures, marble, iron railings, and plush, soft fittings. The forward-situated Bar is fronted by an arc of fulllength windows that continue aft to the Panorama Lounge, the main gathering spot for cocktails, enrichment lectures, and evening entertainment. The terraced reception lobby follows, serving as the ship’s main entry portal with a purser’s desk, a shoreexcursions office, and a small boutique. Suite accommodations continue aft to Arthur’s, which is a quiet lounge with round-the-clock coffee, tea, and snacks that becomes a casual alternate dining venue in the evening.

The galley and the Compass Rose Res-

Spacious, 300-square-foot Category 7 suites have wide French balconies.

taurant, which is large enough to accommodate all guests in one leisurely seating, are located forward on Ruby Deck. The dining room has picture-windows on both sides and booths of seating surrounding a central buffet. The rest of Ruby Deck is dedicated to suite accommodations.

On the lowest level, Emerald Deck, there is a compact spa with men’s and women’s saunas, a massage room, and a beauty salon, as well as a small gym with cardio equipment. Aft of the spa is a cluster of cabins. An elevator and two staircases connect the three interior decks.

Accommodations on the Savor range from 22 extremely spacious, 300-square-foot Category 7 suites with wide French balconies to six comfortable 150-sq.-ft. Category 1 cabins with a pair of fixed near-water-level windows. Of special note—and unique to

Unique “loft” cabins have elevated seating areas with picture-windows.

Tauck—are the innovative Category 3 “loft” cabins on Emerald Deck; although located low in the ship, these 225-sq.-ft. staterooms have stepped up sitting areas with a large window that slides open.

Our 225-sq.-ft. Category 6 stateroom on Diamond Deck boasted two sets of fulllength windows and a French balcony. It was exceedingly comfortable and intuitively designed with quality fittings, well-placed lighting, and abundant storage. All staterooms have a phone, a 32-inch LED television, 220- and 110-volt electrical outlets, built-in closets with drawers, under-bed storage, a safe, two chairs and a small table, free Wi-Fi access, and a Nespresso coffee-maker with a choice of brews, as well as a mini-bar that is replenished daily with complimentary soft drinks and bottled water. All cabins boast a marble-lined bathroom with a shower fitted with hand-held massage and rain-forest heads as well as a supply of Molton Brown amenities (shower gel, shampoo, moisturizer, soap, and a vanity kit). Like most savvy river cruise lines, Tauck also provides individual Vox brand headsets that allow passengers to stay within earshot of their guides on shore excursions.

The dining experience is every bit the equal of some of the more luxe ocean-going lines, beginning with tables set with Riedel stemware, fine linens, and custom chargers.

Leisurely four-course dinners were served graciously and attentively by the ship’s staff, who instantly knew our names and managed our varying dietary requirements effortlessly throughout the week. Breakfasts and lunches featured extensive buffets as well as daily menu specials and attentive beverage service. oordinated by the cruise director and the three Tauck directors who remained with us throughout the tour, the historic, scenic and cultural highlights of the ensuing week on the Danube were almost too many to list. Tauck offers up to three included tours in each port, and there is always the option of taking one of 12 bicycles (included in the fare) out for a ride, or just relaxing onboard.

In Bratislava, Slovakia, we would enjoy a half-day tour to Cerveny Kamen Castle in the Little Carpathian Foothills and a tasting at the Elesko Winery. In the Austrian port of Tulln (which was substituted for Krems due to canal traffic), we paid a morning visit to Grafenegg Castle, which boasts a mix of Gothic, Baroque, Biedemeier, and NeoGothic architecture. Our next stop, Gottweig Abbey, was Tauck’s alternate to the more famous but overly trafficked Melk Abbey.

Situated atop a densely forested promontory overlooking the Danube, Gottweig Abbey’s halls are filled with priceless paintings and soaring frescoes.

We were treated to a morning passage through the castle-lined Wachau Valley as the pinkish rays of the sun broke through the cloud cover. Later that day, in the tiny

C

Our welcome dinner in Vienna’s legendary Palais Pallavicini foreshadowed the wonders of our cruise.

Austrian town of Grein, despite the recurring rain, we joined a walking tour of the quaint theater and historic castle. In Linz, Austria, there was an excursion to the UNESCO World Heritage-designated Cesky Krumlov in the nearby Czech Republic with its pastelfronted storybook architecture. We had enough free time to scale the medieval Castle Tower before a guided tour of the castle, itself, a visit to the Palace Theater, and a buffet lunch hosted by Tauck in the vast indoor Winter Riding School, now a concert hall and social venue.

In picturesque Passau, Germany, which is located on a peninsula at the convergence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers, we were guided along cobblestone streets to the Cafe Simon for a praline-making demo before an early-afternoon concerto in St. Stephen’s, which boasts the largest cathedral organ in the world. After lunch onboard, we hiked on our own up to the 13th-century Veste Oberhaus fortress to take in the view.

In Regensburg, Germany—our final Dan-

ube port-of-call where we spent two nights— Tauck took us via motorcoach to Nuremberg.

Our first stop there was the Documentation Center in the remains of the unfinished Congress Hall, the Third Reich’s intended equivalent of the United States Capitol Building, which now serves as a museum recording the rise of Hitler and the Nazi Party. After a stop at the nearby Zeppelin Field, scene of six massive Nazi rallies between 1933 and 1938, we were driven past many of Nuremberg’s well-known sights, including the courthouse where many Nazis were tried and brought to justice.

The most profound tour of the week was as enlightening as it was deeply distressing.

Although the alternate excursion from Grein to the 15th-century Greinberg Palace would surely have been more pleasant, we opted to go to Matthausen, the Nazi slave-labor camp where hundreds of thousands of dissidents, Jews, Slavs, gypsies, and homosexuals were interned between 1938 and 1945. Led by a Continued on next page

Pinkish rays of morning sunshine lent an oil-painting aspect to views of Wachau Valley villages.

During our post-cruise stay in Prague, we visited sights ranging from historic Old Town Square (left) to the more contemporary John Lennon Wall (right).

REFLECTIONS OF THE BLUE DANUBE Continued

attribute is the artificial grotto, which is actually a giant Mannerist stone sculpture with the occasional mask, snake, or gargoyle hidden in its contours. From the uppermost terrace of our next stop, the 18th-century Ba-

guide who is the grandson of a villager that witnessed many of the atrocities firsthand, we retraced the steps of some 300,000 people who were either worked, shot, or gassed to death. That this could occur in such a seemingly pastoral place remains incomprehensible, but revisiting this important part of human history gives us a chance to honor those who perished and hopefully help prevent it from ever happening again. fter debarking the Savor in Regensburg, we headed off on a three-hour ride to Prague, the dazzling Bohemian capitol of the Czech Republic, which lies on the banks of the Vlatava River. Our motorcoach circled the city’s most alluring sights before delivering us to the InterContinental Hotel.

On Tauck’s “Fountains & Gardens” tour that afternoon, the first stop was Wallenstein Gardens & Palace, named and built for one of the most powerful 17thcentury Czech noblemen. Its most unusual

A

In Passau, we enjoyed a concert at St. Stephen’s, which boasts the world’s largest cathedral organ.

roque Vrtba Gardens, there was a stunning view of Prague’s sky-piercing rooftops. After

Our tour to the Nazi slave-labor camp at Matthausen was as enlightening as it was distressing.

tea in a local cafe hosted by our director, our tour concluded with a walk across the famed Charles Bridge, named for King Charles IV, who began its construction in 1357. Built atop 16 arches and a half-mile long, it took more than five decades to complete.

Today, the Charles Bridge is one of Prague’s most popular (and crowded) sights.

The thick, dewy fog that greeted us when we left on the penultimate morning’s tour of Prague Castle magically lifted as we entered its fortified walls. After a very cathedral-intensive week, our jaws nonetheless came unhinged at the architectural scale and Gothic grandeur of St. Vitus Cathedral, which rises to a height of 407 feet. Begun in 1352, its construction took almost six centuries, due to a lack of funding and numerous wars.

From there, we had time on our own to visit the Kampa Museum, which has a fantastic collection of works by Czech artists Kupka, Gutfreund, and others. En route, we stopped at the John Lennon Wall, dedicated to the late Beatle and a popular spot for locals and visitors alike to take selfies and post messages of peace and love.

On the way back, we detoured past the lineup of Art Nouveau and Baroque buildings overlooking the Vlatava River. Especially eye-catching was the 1992-built Dancing House, designed by Frank Gehry and Czech architect Vlado Milunic; it’s often called “Fred & Ginger” for its representation of static and dynamic forces in the form of two dancers, honoring the Czech transition from communism to democracy.

Our Tauck journey ended much as it began, with a gala evening in the InterContinental Hotel’s rooftop restaurant.

Overlooking the brilliantly lit spires and domes of Old Town Prague, we toasted new friends and an utterly seamless, dazzlingly comprehensive travel experience. Consider us future Tauck repeaters.

For more information contact your travel agent or Tauck (Cruise Travel Magazine), Wilton Woods, 10 Westport Rd., Wilton, CT 06897; log on to www.tauck.com; or call CT 800-468-2825.

ith a language, culture, and gastronomic traditions all its own, the Basque region of northern Spain is practically a country within a country. In fact, many Basques don’t even consider themselves to be Spanish.

There’s a lot of mystery surrounding the origins of what is believed to be Europe’s oldest ethnic group, but shore excursions give curious cruise passengers at least a peek into what Basque Country is all about, providing a window into the land of this proud, feisty, and hospitable people.

Bilbao, a cosmopolitan city situated on the

W

PORT GUIDE Bay Of Biscay in the North Atlantic, is the port of entry for Spain’s Basque Country and this year counted 51 cruise-ship calls, including those of Princess Cruises, Holland America Line, P&O Cruises, Silversea Cruises, and other lines offering Western Europe itineraries. A new cruise terminal, slated to be operational in 2017, is expected to further Bilbao’s goal of becoming a home port where cruises would start and finish.

From berths in the pleasant seaside town of

Getxo, shuttle buses take passengers on the 20-minute trip to central Bilbao.

The Basques have strong links to the land and sea. They have farmed the green hills and valleys of their homeland for centuries, and their deep-sea fishing industry goes back to the 1500s, when fearless fishermen traveled as far as Newfoundland in search of cod.

Today the seafood from cold Atlantic waters and raw ingredients from pastures, gardens, orchards, and vineyards have given Basque Country a rich food culture. Indeed, gastronomy is a hallmark of Basque identity and a vital part of everyday life.

Spain’s Basque Country Port calls in Bilbao provide a chance to see this fascinating, overlooked corner of Western Europe

By Randy Mink

44 Cruise Travel November/December 2016

language, Euskara. Speaking Euskara makes one a Basque. Unrelated to any other tongue, it appears bizarre and unpronounceable to those more familiar with the Romance or Germanic languages. You’ll see Euskara words on menus and road signs (often with the Spanish equivalents) and notice they are full of k’s, tx’s, and z’s. About 600,000 Basques in Spain and bordering southwestern France converse in the language, which has enjoyed a resurgence. It is taught in schools, and some radio and television stations broadcast in Euskara.

Continued on next page

Spread Photo Courtesy Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

Basque Tour

To the casual visitor, the Basque people look pretty much like anyone else in Spain.

Stereotypes might show stout men in berets, perhaps herding sheep against the backdrop of a whitewashed stone farmhouse. At festivals and folkloric shows you’ll see male dance troupes in traditional white outfits with red sashes and berets. Typical Basque games include pelota (what the world knows as jai alai, played on a court bare-handed or with a paddle or basket sling) and manly rural sports like stone-lifting, wood-chopping, and tug-of-war.

What really sets Basques apart is their

Randy Mink

In Bilbao, the traditional architecture along the banks of the Nervion River (above) has been eclipsed by the stunning limestone and titanium colossus that is the Guggenheim Museum (spread photo), whose most popular piece might be colorful Puppy (inset right).

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

45

Basque Tour

Spain’s Basque Country Continued

Above all, Basques cherish their independence. With their own parliament, tax collection, and police force, the three Spanish Basque provinces enjoy a substantial level of autonomy from the central government in Madrid. The red-green-and-white Basque flag, a symbol of this nationalism, flies everywhere. There’s always been a determined separatist movement, but violent acts by political extremists are a problem of the past. s for tourism, Basque Country (or Euskadi in the Basque language) is somewhat off the beaten path and has few iconic landmarks. That makes it all the riper for discovery. Perhaps the region is best known for its culinary prowess, and it has certainly capitalized on the growing interest in food and wine travel. Celebrated for its inventive chefs and blessed with the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, the region has earned a reputation as the place to eat in Spain. In England’s

A

most recent World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, four on the list were in Spain’s Basque Country. Cruise passengers can sample Basque cuisine at bars, restaurants, cooking classes, and gastronomy societies.

Many shore excursions give travelers a chance to indulge in one of the region’s signature treats—pintxos (pronounced PEENchos). The Basque equivalent of tapas, these exquisite little bites served at bars and cafes can range from unadorned slivers of dried Iberian ham on bread to miniature works of art reflecting the heights of nano-gastronomy. Locals make an afternoon or evening of hopping from bar to bar, selecting one or two pintxos at each and washing them down with a small glass of beer or wine, all done standing or sitting at the bar rather than seated at a table. It’s more a way of socializing than having a meal.

Bar counters piled high with platters of pintxos (usually skewered on sticks or toothpicks) are really something to behold; the sheer variety is mind-boggling. Most popular is a slice of Spanish omelet (tortilla de patata), a mixture of egg and potato fried in oil.

Also commonly found is the gilda, an oliveanchovy-green chili pepper medley eaten in

Basque Tour

Naturally, cooking classes are popular in Basque Country, best known for its culinary prowess.

one bite. Other snack-sized morsels might include mayonnaise-based salads, grilled wild mushrooms, and the huevo frito, a heavenly, deep-fried pillow of dough filled with hot, runny egg, a slice of potato, and a bit of bacon. (Remember to call them pintxos, not tapas. To Basques, a tapa refers to a small item served free with the purchase of a drink, which is common practice in some parts of Spain.)

In Bilbao, a foodie paradise, you might sign up for a walking tour of the atmospheric Old Quarter (Casco Viejo), a labyrinth of pedestrian streets with some of the city’s best eateries and boutiques. Princess Cruises’ five-hour “Bilbao Old Quarter Walk” sets aside time for pintxos on Plaza Nueva, the arcaded main square. Restored after a devastating flood in 1983, the district dates back to 1300, encompassing sights like the Gothic Cathedral Of Santiago, St. Nicolas Church, and the majestic, neo-Baroque Arriaga Theater. Ancient mansions sport wooden doors, ironwork balconies, and family coatsof-arms.

On Princess cruises that stop in Bilbao, serious foodies can take the “Basque Master Cuisine Course,” a small-group excursion that reveals the secrets of Basque cooking.

At the Michelin-starred Zortziko, they don aprons and work side by side with celebrated chef Daniel Garcia, whipping up a minimum of four recipes accompanied by chilled txakoli, a slightly acidic white sparkling wine. “From Market To Plate,” another Princess excursion, features an Old Quarter walk with your chef to Ribera Market, the largest indoor food market in Europe, and then a drive to a txoko, a traditionally male gastronomy club where men come together to cook and bond. Memberships in these culinary fraternities are passed from father to son, and many participants have been friends since childhood. (More clubs, though, have been opening doors to women, and a couple even have female presidents.) Princess passengers invited into this exclusive group take part in a cooking class amid the boisterous atmosphere and then sit back and enjoy the lunch that was prepared before their eyes.

Basque Tour

Basque Country’s signature treat is pintxos (the region’s equivalent of tapas), exquisite little bites served at bars and cafes.

side from exploring the Old Quarter and savoring the bounty of the Basque table, the chief tourist activity in Bilbao is visiting the Guggenheim Museum, a repository of modern and contemporary art more famous for its architecture than for the works inside.

The city’s very identity has been linked to the colossus of limestone and titanium since it appeared on the banks of the Nervion River in 1997. Designed by controversial Canadianborn American architect Frank Gehry, the Guggenheim radically transformed a derelict industrial area and catapulted Bilbao into a center of art, architecture, and urban design, as many other famed architects were attracted to the forward-looking city of 350,000 (one million in the metro area, or almost half the Spanish Basque population). The neighboring 41-story Iberdrola Tower, the tallest building in Basque Country, is the work of Cesar Pelli, the Argentine architect responsible for skyscrapers like the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur. The riverfront between the Guggenheim and Old Quarter is now a park-

A

Basque Tour

Basque Tour

Seafood dominates menus in Basque Country, and no one (except the Japanese) eats more fish per capita than the Basques.

Cod (or bacalao) is the fish of choice, and hake comes next. Grouper, turbot, tuna, monkfish, jack mackerel, anchovies, baby eels, spider crab, lobster, octopus, and baby squid are found everywhere as well. The classic dish bacalao pil pil is dried salted cod in a mayonnaise-like sauce of olive oil, chili, and garlic. At any pintxo bar you’re likely to encounter salted cod, cod croquettes, or crispy fried cod skin. A familiar restaurant dish is marmitako, a hearty fishermen’s stew of tuna, potatoes, and red peppers.

A male Basque dance troupe in traditional dress performs at a folkloric show in Bilbao.

like ribbon of greenery where abandoned steel mills and shipyards once lined a polluted waterway.

The Guggenheim, a curvaceous jumble of gleaming titanium strips, invites photos from every angle. Just as photogenic is Puppy, the 42-foot-tall, color-splashed sculpture of a terrier standing guard outside the entrance; some 60,000 flowers and plants cover this floral masterpiece by American artist Jeff Koons. A giant, spindle-legged spider by French sculptress Louise Bourgeois commands the museum’s riverside terrace. Just as eye-popping is the Guggenheim’s interior, its enormous atrium connecting to 19 galleries via metal walkways and glass elevators. Changing exhibitions of art from the second half of the 20th century are from collections of the Guggenheim in New York.

San Sebastian vies with Bilbao as the Basque Country’s most popular tourist desti-

nation, offering the cruise traveler an alternative to a day spent in the big city. The glorious crescent of golden sand beaches right in the heart of town gives San Sebastian a laidback feel. A summer retreat for the royal family and Madrid aristocrats in the 19th and early 20th centuries, San Sebastian (Donostia in Euskara) commands an incomparable setting on Concha Bay, a stunning jewel with two mountain peaks as bookends and a petite island in the center. Francisco Franco, the dictator who ruled Spain from 1939-1975, spent 35 summers there.

Today one of Europe’s most prestigious international film festivals (in September) and a collection of Michelin-starred restaurants (the most per capita of anyplace on earth) enhance San Sebastian’s pedigree, lending the city an aura of sophistication.

(Three restaurants—Arzak, Akelarre, and Continued on next page

This view from San Sebastian’s fashionable beachside promenade looks towards the elegant City Hall, built in the style of famous Monte Carlo Casino.

Spain’s Basque Country Martin Bersasategui—boast three Michelin stars, the French gourmet critics’ highest rating.) Take a walk along the fashionable beachside promenade and visions of Monte Carlo, Cannes, and Nice come to mind. The elegant City Hall, built in a style similar to that of the Monte Carlo Casino, actually was a casino until gambling was outlawed in the early 20th century. The European Union designated San Sebastian, together with the Polish city of Wroclaw, as the European Capital Of Culture for 2016.

Tours of San Sebastian, a 75-minute drive east of Bilbao, feature the lookout point atop Mount Igueldo, where picture-postcard panoramas of the shell-shaped bay and distant green mountains keep cameras clicking.

Besides viewpoints, the promontory, reachable by road or funicular, has a hotel, cafes, and a century-old amusement park. Another stop is the Old Town (Parte Vieja), where narrow streets packed with shops, restaurants, and a tantalizing choice of pintxos bars lie just minutes from La Concha Beach.

Turismo Getxo

Continued

In 2017, a new cruise terminal is due to open in Getxo, the port city for Basque Country.

brief visit to Hondaribbia, a delightful fishing port near the French border, often rounds out San Sebastian excursions.

The upper town contains the medieval district, while the lower section is the picturesque fishermen’s quarter, with houses painted bright green or blue and wooden balconies decorated with flower boxes.

Basque Tour Photos

A

Some shore excursions go beyond the coast and into Basque Country’s famed Rioja Alavesa wine region, an hour-and-a-half drive south of Bilbao. Tucked into a relatively compact area between the southern slopes of the Sierra De Cantabria and Ebro River are endless vistas of vineyards on terraced hillsides sprinkled with olive trees. Protected by the mountain range from coastal winds and moisture, the vines, mostly of the red tempranillo variety, thrive in a microclimate ideal for growing grapes. You’ll have a chance for tastings (with pintxos) at some of the region’s 300-some wineries and enjoy passing through idyllic hilltop towns, their church towers visible from miles away.

Shore tours typically include Laguardia, a walled medieval town threaded with pedestrian lanes. Adorned with balconies, lines of drying laundry, and religious shrines, the stone passageways invite random wandering.

The main point of interest is Santa Maria De Los Reyes, a church known for its ornately carved, 14th-century Gothic portico with painted figures of the 12 apostles flanking a statue of Mary and Jesus. Underneath the fortified town are more than 200 wine cellars.

Holland America and Silversea excursions include a tasting in the village and at other locations in Alava province.

Just as ancient Laguardia rises ship-like over the sea of vineyards, a much newer

landmark looms prominently on the horizon just four miles away in the town of Elciego.

The dominating Herederos Del Marques De Riscal winery is the undulating tangle of purple, silver, and gold metal ribbons of the estate’s Frank Gehry-designed showpiece hotel, a building reminiscent of his Guggenheim Museum. The eruption of steel and titanium, according to one guidebook, “looks as if a colony from outer space had crashed in the middle of La Rioja’s oldest vineyards.”

Dubbed “City Of Wine,” Marques De Riscal is indeed the region’s oldest winery, dating from 1860. The luxury hotel features a onestar Michelin restaurant.

Even in bucolic wine country, you can’t avoid the Basques’ penchant for daring design and fine living. Whether you stick to the coast or venture into the countryside, a cruise stopover in Spain’s Basque Country will give you a taste of this ancient culture and perhaps whet your appetite for second helpings on future travels to the Iberian peninsula.

For information on Spain’s Basque Country, contact Basque Tour (Basque Tourism Board) by logging on to its web site, www.basquecountrytourism.eus, or the National Tourist Office of Spain, www.spain.info/en. For more information about cruises that call in Basque Country, contact your travel agent or cruise line. CT

Reminiscent of the Guggenheim Museum, the landmark hotel at the Marques De Riscal winery dominates the landscape of Basque Country’s famed Rioja Alavesa wine region (below).

The local sparkling white wine, txakoli (left), is a popular accompaniment to pintxos.

CRUISE NEWS Continued from page 32

a minority interest—is expected to initially launch its new domestic Chinese cruise brand using ships that are purchased from Carnival Corp.’s existing fleet and homeported in China. Based on this just announced MOA, the joint venture would then add new China-built cruise ships starting in 2022 to further accelerate growth in the Chinese cruise market, which is expected to eventually become the largest one in the world.

Separately, Carnival Corp. and its Chinese partners also announced that the Chinese central government has now granted approval for the cruise joint venture to officially incorporate in Hong Kong. This news follows a standard regulatory approval process with Chinese officials that has taken place since the joint venture agreement was originally announced in London in October 2015 Carnival Corporation & plc is the world’s largest leisure travel company, with a portfolio of 10 cruise brands in North America, Europe, Australia, and Asia comprising Carnival Cruise Line, Fathom, Holland America Line, Princess Cruises, Seabourn Cruise Line, AIDA Cruises, Costa Cruises, Cunard Line, P&O Cruises (Australia), and P&O Cruises (UK). For more information log on to www.carnivalcorp.com.

Celebrity Extends “Top Chef” Celebrity Cruises and Bravo Media have extended their popular Top Chef At Sea program through 2017 and will offer Top Chef fans and foodies the ultimate opportunity to vacation with an incredible lineup of “cheftestants” on the exclusive Top Chef Signature Sailing. Embarking December 30 onboard the Celebrity Silhouette, there’s no better way to ring in the New Year than sailing this one-of-a-kind, delectable, nine-night Eastern Caribbean holiday getaway.

Guests will enjoy various up-close-andpersonal culinary experiences with four former Top Chef competitors, including: Jeremy Ford (Top Chef California winner, Chef De Cuisine at the Matador Room in Miami, FL), Doug Adams (Top Chef Boston finalist, Chef De Cuisine at Portland Penny Diner in Oregon), Tiffany Derry (Top Chef D.C. and Top Chef All-Stars finalist, owner of TD Concepts Inc.), and Ash Fulk (Top Chef Las Vegas contestant, a chef in New York City).

Plus, this exclusive event will bring all of the talented cheftestants together to host a oneof-a-kind pop-up restaurant. Passengers will be given this one-night opportunity to explore the chefs’ best dishes, prepared by them, along with a chance to mingle with the culinary artists once they are done in the kitchen.

Throughout the signature sailing, passionate foodies and fans alike can enjoy exclusive one-on-one experiences with the chefs by booking private cooking classes and chef-

hosted shore excursions to polish their culinary techniques and get advice and tips. The itinerary also features interactive cooking demonstrations. As the chefs turn up the heat and prepare their dishes, they will engage with audience members, answering questions and walking them through the preparation of their meals.

In addition to this Top Chef Signature Sailing, Celebrity will continue to offer interactive Quickfire Challenges and Top Chefinspired menu evenings on the line’s cruises fleetwide (excluding the Celebrity Xpedition) for all departures through June 2017.

Exhilarating Quickfire Challenges put passengers in the spotlight to get a taste of the pressure the cheftestants experience on the popular television series. Plus, guests can indulge in a selection of the dishes the judges raved about on the series at Top Chef Night in the main restaurant.

For more information contact your travel agent or Celebrity Cruises (Cruise Travel Magazine), 1050 Caribbean Way, Miami, FL 33132; call 800-647-2251; or log on to www.celebritycruises.com.

UnCruise’s Galapagos Evolves Cruise travelers have 10 opportunities in 2017 to channel their inner Darwin with UnCruise Adventures’ updated nine-day trip in Quito, Ecuador, and the Galapagos Islands. A new itinerary spends two days exploring colonial Quito and seven days cruising the islands on the 48-guest La Pinta.

The line’s Darwin’s Islands & Colonial Quito adventure begins with a two-night stay at the Casa Gangotena, a 31-room upscale boutique hotel in Quito’s historic center.

Guided walking tours explore the city’s culture and cuisine, and bring guests to historic landmarks and museums.

The seven-day island cruise on the La Pinta sails from Isla Baltra and visits the islands of Seymour Norte, Isabela, Fernandina, Rabida, Santa Cruz, and Floreana.

Highlights include stops at the Charles Darwin Research Center, the geological marine site of Punta Vicente Roca on Isla Isabela, as well as a visit to Isla Rabida’s red beach.

Expert naturalists, guided tours, and smallgroup adventure activities aid in viewing the islands’ birds and wildlife up-close in their natural habitat. See giant tortoises, iguanas, green sea turtles, white-tipped reef sharks, sea lions, and lava lizards, as well as blue-footed boobies, flamingos, 13 species of Darwin’s finches, flightless cormorants, gulls, seabirds, shorebirds, tropic birds, and short-eared owls.

The 10 departure dates in 2017 include February 22, March 22, April 19, May 3 and 17, June 28, July 12 and 26, August 9, and October 4. Rates begin at $8,295 per-person/ double-occupancy.

For more information contact your travel agent or UnCruise Adventures (Cruise Travel Magazine), 3826 18th Ave. W., Seattle, WA 98119; call 888-862-8881; or log on to CT www.uncruise.com.

PREVIEW COMING JAN/FEB 2017 On Sale At Your Newsstand Jan. 10, 2017 Ship Of The Month

SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER Billed as the most luxurious cruise liner ever built.

Industry Outlook

CRUISE TRENDS What’s hot these days in the business of cruising.

On The Horizon

NEW SHIP PREVIEW An unprecedented number of vessels are on order.

Port Guide

CALLING IN CUBA Much more than Havana on biggest Caribbean isle.

Then & Now

FROM GYMS TO SPAS Exercise rooms at sea transform into health clubs.

A New Look At The

REMASTERED QM2 The Cunard liner is fresh from a $132-million refit.

2017 Spring/Summer

CRUISE CALENDAR Complete listing of ship schedules, ports, prices.

Plus other full-color features, regular departments, more. . . .

Cruise Travel November/December 2016

49

CRUISE VIEWS

MAKING AN ENTRANCE W

Andrea Francolini/Holland America Line

Depending on your ship’s arrival time, admire world famous landmarks like St. hen many cruise passengers speak of you may be able to see the sun rise over the Mark’s Square and the Byzantine spires and “making an entrance,” they are typiCoat Hanger. During our last sail-away, our domes of St. Mark’s Basilica. cally referring to dressing to the nines on a Hong Kong, China—Scenic Victoria ship blew her whistle in farewell just as we gala evening at sea and descending a sweepwere sailing under the bridge where a group Harbour is famous for panoramas of tradiing staircase into an elegant dining room to of climbers was at the top. Somebody joked tional craft navigating in the shadows of enjoy a gourmet dinner. Others, including that there’s been a danger of losing a few ultra-modern skyscrapers. We have made the myself, are also interested in another kind of climbers at that powerful sound. My first entrance into Hong Kong three times on the entrance that is one of the greatest pleasures entrance into Sydney Harbour was onboard Amsterdam. Most recently the onboard port of cruising: entering a destination the best Princess Cruises’ Diamond Princess, and the guide, Barbara Haenni, recommended that possible way, properly and spectacularly, by next three were onboard Holland America we watch from the ship’s bow, which is sea.

Line’s Amsterdam—all four arrivals were opened to guests for these occasions, from You will find these passengers—and the observation lounge, or from a deck area magnificent. me—up ondeck early, camera and binoculars Here are some of my other favorite port where we could “go from one side to anin hand, to witness the arrivals at some of the other, to see all the sights” of world’s most exciting destiHong Kong Island on our left nations. Many of us often skip and Kowloon on our right. breakfast, in favor of just coffee Good advice: We found ouror juice, so as not to miss a selves going back and forth moment of these occasions. from port to starboard to take in Our reward? Some of the the spectacle of sampans, fervoyage’s most memorable mories, freighters, cruise ships, and ments. These port entrances are other vessels; landmarks includnot only beautiful, showing off ing the International Commerce a destination’s skyline and Center (Hong Kong’s tallest waterfront attractions, but are building), Two International Fialso practical, helping orient nance Center, and other skyvisitors to the lay of the land. scrapers; and attractions like They can also be universally Victoria’s Peak, the Convention enjoyed: Even passengers who & Exhibition Centre, and the have mobility issues can do this Hong Kong Observation Wheel. sightseeing from an open deck Thira, Santorini, Greece— or observation lounge. And Holland America Line’s Amsterdam sails past the iconic Sydney Opera House in Port Jackson, the “finest harbour in the world.”

From a distance, as ships apadding to those benefits, these proach this Greek Isle, it looks entrances are free, included in entrances collected on 200 cruises during the as if the island’s volcanic cliffs are covered the cruise ticket (a welcome perk as harbor last four decades. No matter how often I with snow; but when in closer, the “snow” is sightseeing cruises at many destinations return to these ports, I’ll always be up on revealed as Santorini’s white villages overtypically can set you back about $15 to $35 looking sapphire waters of the Aegean. A deck early to get a good spot at the railing. per-person).

New York City—My first entrance by volcanic eruption in 1450 B.C. gave SanThat was the case during a recent visit in ship here occurred almost four decades ago torini’s harbor its crescent shape, and ships Sydney, Australia, where harbor cruises are onboard Cunard Line’s Queen Elizabeth 2, drop anchor in the volcano’s collapsed offered by various companies. But we paid on a cruise from Fort Lauderdale to the Big caldera. From the decks, passengers admire nothing extra for our entrance and started our Apple and continuing on as a trans-Atlantic Thira, the island’s capital, 890 feet over the sightseeing immediately as we arrived by crossing. Arguably the most spectacular port sea, and survey the routes up to it—cable car, cruise ship. Called in 1788 the “finest harentrance in North America, New York 580 steps, and a steep road full of switchbour in the world” by Captain Arthur Phillip, Harbor showcases one of our beloved icons: backs (on which donkey rides are a popular commander of Britain’s First Fleet, Port the Statue Of Liberty, with her torch, tablet, choice). Another highlight is the picturesque Jackson (more commonly known as Sydney and crown with seven spokes that symbolize village of Oia at the northern tip of the island, Harbour) is arguably the city’s centerpiece. the seven continents. Other highlights in- with its blue-domed churches that seem to It’s undoubtedly a breathtaking sail-in: clude Ellis Island, through which 12-million illustrate every other travel poster of Greece.

There’s simply no better way to arrive in Rio De Janeiro, Brazil—Along with Sydimmigrants from Europe entered our country, Sydney than by sea. Passengers are treated to Manhattan’s spectacular skyline including ney and Hong Kong, this is consistently a visual feast of beaches and bays; historic such skyscrapers as the new One World ranked among the world’s most scenic ports. sites like Fort Denison, a fortress dating from Trade Center and the Art Deco Empire State Spectacular sights that greet cruise passenthe 1850s; attractions like Taronga Zoo; gers include green hills doing a samba Building and Chrysler Building. attractive suburbs; pristine bushland; tiny Venice, Italy—The beauty of “The Queen around Guanabara Bay, the 2,310-foot-high islands; and all manner of craft, from sailOf The Adriatic” is revealed during an arrival Corcovado Mountain crowned with the 98boats to ferries to cruise ships. And then, by cruise liner. The city’s piazzas, palazzos, foot-tall Christ The Redeemer statue (one of there are the world-class sights: the Sydney and canals come into view as ships negotiate the New Seven Wonders Of The World) on Opera House, with its daring sail-like roofs, the Giudecca and Grand canals. Every time its 26-foot-tall pedestal, and the picturesque and Sydney Harbour Bridge, called “the Coat I’ve entered, it seemed as if all passengers Pao De Acucar (Sugarloaf Mountain).

Hanger” by locals, with 200 steps for the —Georgina Cruz got up early to secure a spot by the railing to intrepid to climb.

50

Cruise Travel November/December 2016