AIR Empire Aviation Dec'14

Page 1

THE CHANEL MOMENT

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OUR SIGNATURE COLLECTION. QUATTROPORTE BY MASERATI.

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QUATTROPORTE S 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 410 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 550 NM - TOP SPEED: 285 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.1 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE GTS 3798 CC V8 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 530 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 650 NM - TOP SPEED: 307 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 4.7 SECONDS.

Q U A T T R O P O R T E

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CONTENTS / FEATURES

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com Commercial Director Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com Senior Designer Adam Sneade Designer Andy Knappett Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud Production Manager Chalitha Fernando

Sixty

Seventy Two

Ordinary Girl

Waight For It

She’s the face of Chanel and worth millions, but Keira Knightley still strives to be normal.

As Chloé opens a new ÀDJVKLS LQ 5L\DGK, AIR sits down with the label’s creative director.

Sixty Six

Seventy Six

The King of Soul

Stars on Celluoid

50 years after Sam Cooke was sensationally shot, AIR examines the soul singer’s tragic last night.

Legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh captures VRPH RI +ROO\ZRRG¶V ¿QHVW IRU ,:& 6FKD̆KDXVHQ

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CONTENTS / REGUL ARS Twenty Six

Fifty Eight

Eighty Four

Radar

Jewellery

Gastronomy

Iconic images by Norman Parkinson, plus perfect presents for him and her.

Jeweller to the stars Stephen Webster on bold gems and Bowie.

.RUHDQ $PHULFDQ FKHI -XG\ Joo is not your average culinary star, as AIR discovers.

Forty

Eighty

Eighty Eight

Art & Design

Motoring

Travel

/RQGRQœV ¿UVW DQWL JDOOHU\ plus fashion’s enduring love of fairy tales.

7KLV \HDUÂśV ÂżQHVW OLPLWHG HGLWLRQ DQG XOWUD H[FOXVLYH luxury vehicles.

As St. Moritz celebrates 150 years of winter tourism, AIR charts its rise to the top.

Forty Nine

Interiors AIR talks design with Louis Vuitton’s former director of architecture.

Fifty Three

Timepieces The revival of Moritz *URVVPDQQ DQG VSHFLDO order watches.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

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THE BRIDAL COLLECTION Constellation Setting

T H E G A L L E R I A S O W WA H S Q U A R E 0 2 - 6 7 4 3 6 6 6 W W W. G R A F F D I A M O N D S . C O M

EMPIRE AVIATION GROUP

Issue Forty Three

WELCOME ONBOARD

Welcome to this issue of AIR, the EAG lifestyle magazine for aircraft owners and onboard guests. Today, globalisation is a major driving force behind business and you can be sure that where business leads, business aviation follows. ($* PDQDJHV DQ H[WHQVLYH ÀHHW RI DLUFUDIW in four countries and three continents. In addition to this, we have a dedicated aircraft VDOHV ṘFH LQ WKH 86 FUHDWLQJ DFFHVV WR WKH world’s largest business jet market. In this issue, we showcase the latest addition WR RXU 1LJHULD EDVHG ÀHHW D %RPEDUGLHU *OREDO ([SUHVV ;56 ZKLFK ZH VRXUFHG LQ Europe on behalf of the owner. This is our 7th aircraft in Africa and 27th in the total ($* ÀHHW Having already expanded our horizons, we are seeing attractive growth opportunities in regions such as Africa, India and even further East. In India, we are replicating our full service approach whilst in Africa, we are focusing on aircraft management in this fast growing region. This international growth is extraordinary but should be no great surprise; from our base in Dubai, we can access the global business jet market for customers anywhere in the world, and remotely manage aircraft within and beyond the Middle East.

Steve Hartley Executive Director

Contact details: info@empire.aero empire.aero - 21 -

Paras Dhamecha Executive Director

EMPIRE AVIATION AIRCRAFT FOR SALE

2008 Gulfstream G550

2008 Hawker 900XP

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‡ &DELQ 9HVWLEXOH 6ROLG +LQJHG 'RRU Contact (PDLO DLUFUDIWVDOHV#HPSLUH DHUR RU FDOO RXU 'XEDL ṘFH RU RXU 86 2̇FH Contact www.empire.aero (PDLO DLUFUDIWVDOHV#HPSLUH DHUR RU FDOO RXU 'XEDL ṘFH RU RXU 86 2̇FH www.empire.aero - 22 -

EMPIRE AVIATION NEWS

EAG GOES GLOBAL AS NEW BUSINESS JET JOINS MANAGED FLEET Bombardier Global Express XRS business jet joins EAG’s managed fleet in Africa

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ombardier Global ([SUHVV ;56 business jet joins ($*œV PDQDJHG ÀHHW in Africa. Dubai is proving to be the perfect platform for the integrated private aviation services R̆HUHG E\ ($* KHOSLQJ WKH FRPSDQ\ WR EXLOG LWV JURZLQJ JOREDO ÀHHW RI managed business jets. 7KH %RPEDUGLHU *OREDO ([SUHVV ;56 EXVLQHVV MHW LV WKH VHYHQWK aircraft to join EAG’s Africa-based ÀHHW DQG WK LQ WKH FRPSDQ\œV JOREDO ÀHHW RI PDQDJHG DLUFUDIW EDVHG LQ WKH 8$( 2PDQ ,QGLD DQG Nigeria. 7KH ;56 MHW ZDV DFTXLUHG LQ

Europe by EAG and will be managed on behalf of the private owner. The aircraft is an ultra-long EXVLQHVV MHW R̆HULQJ KLJK OHYHOV RI performance and comfort, including a light and spacious cabin with low pressure, full galley and crew area, large storage capacity and the FDSDELOLW\ RI À\LQJ QRQ VWRS IRU XS WR 12 hours at high speed. In addition to its long range and high speed, the Global Express has exceptional takeR̆ FDSDELOLWLHV DW KLJK DOWLWXGH DQG high temperatures, and incorporates fast refueling technology. The new aircraft will be based in /DJRV 1LJHULD $IULFD LV D UDSLGO\ growing market for business aviation and the demand from aircraft - 24 -

RZQHUV IRU KLJK TXDOLW\ PDQDJHPHQW services is growing alongside the rising number of business jets based there. Âł'XEDL UHPDLQV WKH ($* KHDGTXDUWHUV IRU VRPH YHU\ SUDFWLFDO UHDVRQV ´ VD\V 3DUDV 'KDPHFKD ([HFXWLYH 'LUHFWRU RI ($* Âł'XEDL Âą DQG WKH 8$( KDV YHU\ VXFFHVVIXOO\ developed the free zone model to create industry clusters and attract KLJK TXDOLW\ FRPSDQLHV DQG VNLOOV 7KH 'XEDL $LUSRUW )UHH =RQH LV D very successful international hub, which enables EAG to operate globally and supports our business PRGHO YHU\ H̆HFWLYHO\ DOORZLQJ XV to support more owners in more FRXQWULHV ´

RADAR

Fashion forward Celebrating Norman Parkinson

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Regarded as the grandfather of British fashion photography, Norman Parkinson’s pioneering career spanned 56 years. A new exhibition at Proud Chelsea in London celebrates his innovative approach of taking models away from the soulless studios that

had dominated pre-war fashion photography and into the real world. Adding glamour by shooting in exotic locations and making use of unique props, Parkinson’s bold photographs chart the transformation of women’s fashion from the utilitarian WWII years to - 27 -

the Swinging ‘60s and through to the ‘80s. In this 1958 shot, Coming and Going, Nena von Schlebrügge is dressed in in Yves Saint Laurent’s ¿UVW FROOHFWLRQ IRU &KULVWLDQ 'LRU Norman Parkinson: Always in Fashion, Proud Chelsea, until December 7, proud.co.uk

RADAR > Incredibly rare, incredibly desirable, the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing is regularly described as one of the most beautiful classic cars of all time. Back in 1955, it was also touted as one of the most innovative, thanks to its slanted inline six-cylinder engine, which gave the car a lower centre of gravity and maintained the sleek line of the hood, direct fuel injection

and lightweight tubular frame, which gave rise to those magnificent gullwing doors. The iconic car is up for auction next month at RM Auctions’ annual sale in Arizona, USA. A staple on the global calendar for discerning collectors, the two-day auction takes place on January 15 to 16, with the Gullwing sure to attract spirited bidding. rmauctions.com

> It’s the Centre Pompidou’s turn to look back at the 35-year career of the enfant terrible Jeff Koons. Several works by the controversial artist are on display as part of the Le Rérospective exhibition, including the Total Equilibrium series (right), designed to represent what Koons called “the penultimate state of being”. Koons’

12-foot sculpture Balloon Dog became the most expensive piece of art by a living artist when it was sold for $US58 million in 2013, and the influence of the artist shows no sign of slowing down. Nor, for that matter, does his willingness to push boundaries. La Rétrospective will be on show until April 27. centrepompidou.fr - 28 -

DO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER?

Isn’t the real excitement of travel about discovering something new? At InterContinental® we use our local knowledge of a destination so you can enjoy what makes it unique. In Kuala Lumpur for example, our Concierge can arrange a trip to the city’s highest vantage point, Menara Kuala Lumpur Tower, where you can view the famous Petronas Towers from a different perspective. Whatever you choose to do, we can help you discover truly authentic experiences that will stay with you long after you come home.

Do you live an InterContinental life? As a valued IHG® Rewards Club member, the luxuries continue: • Earn points faster now when you stay and dine at InterContinental Hotels and Resorts • Complimentary internet worldwide

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RADAR

MOST WANTED Looking for the ultimate festive gift? Be inspired by these perfect presents

Diamonds – and emeralds – are a girl’s best friend, thanks to David Morris’ recent Biennale des Antiquaires collection. davidmorris.com

Good things come in small packages, like Bulgari’s mother-of-pearl minaudière, part of Harvey Nichols – Dubai’s The Treasury gift selection. bulgari.com

Cocktail hour awaits with Tiffany’s 18-carat white gold timepiece with diamonds and black satin-finish strap. tiffany.com

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Limited to just 47 crystal bottles, this Guerlain fragrance is part of The Treasury exclusive gift selection at Harvey Nichols – Dubai.

Inspired by an aircraft fuselage, dunhill’s Avorities carbon fibre pens are perfect for the man on the move. dunhill.com

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Diamond Breeze collection adds a luxurious sparkle to the season. vancleefarpels.com

Add a touch of luxury to the everyday with Cottin’s 24-carat gold iPad mini. cottinparis.com

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TI M E O N YO U R S I D E when you feel something extraordinary, a rush of excitement, awe and wonder. moments that make us cry with happiness, that make us laugh until our tummies hurt, times we cant wait to experience again and again and again…

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CRITIQUE

Film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies Dir: Peter Jackson Bilbo Baggins’ and his allies are forced into a war that could obliterate all of Middle Earth. AT BEST: “Jackson claims that The Battle of the Five Armies is his IDYRXULWH LQVWDOPHQW LQ WKH WULORJ\ ´ Screenrant AT WORST: “Jackson got a bit lost in DQ RYHUO\ DPELWLRXV SURMHFW ´ Verge

Annie Dir: Will Gluck Annie is a tough but happy foster kid whose life is turned upside down when New York mayoral candidate Jamie Foxx enters her life. AT BEST: “The leading pair are in ¿QH IRUP ZLWK GHFHQW FKHPLVWU\ ´ Screenrant AT WORST: “The music in this hipper and more contemporary Annie GRHVQ¶W DOZD\V WUDGH XS ´ NY Daily

Mr. Turner Dir: Mike Leigh Timothy Spall once again totally inhabits a character – this time, the famed painter J.M.W Turner, whose radical style changed the art world. AT BEST: “Timothy Spall gives the ¿QHVW SHUIRUPDQFH RI KLV FDUHHU WR GDWH ´ The Telegraph AT WORST: “Some have read Joshua McGuire’s broad comic caricature of an art critic as an attack on critics in JHQHUDO ´ The Guardian

Exodus: Gods and Kings Dir: Ridley Scott Moses rises up against the Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses, and tries to free 600,000 slaves. AT BEST: “Scott is back to the resplendent gold of Gladiator, DV KH GUDPDWLVHV WKH IDFH R̆ EHWZHHQ 0RVHV DQG 5DPVHV ,, ´ The Guardian AT WORST: “Exodus: Gods And .LQJV KDV D VWXSLGO\ ORQJ UXQWLPH ´ CinemaBlend - 33 -

CRITIQUE

Books The revered architect of the Ottoman (PSLUH¶V PRVW PDJQL¿FHQW PRVTXHV SOD\V D OHDGLQJ UROH LQ 7XUNLVK DXWKRU (OLI 6KDIDN¶V ODWHVW ZRUN RI KLVWRULF ¿FWLRQ 6HW LQ WK FHQWXU\ ,VWDQEXO 7KH $UFKLWHFW¶V $SSUHQWLFH WHOOV WKH VWRU\ RI \HDU ROG -DKDQ D SHQQLOHVV ,QGLDQ ER\ ZKR VWRZV DZD\ RQ D VKLS ERXQG IRU 7XUNH\ FDUU\LQJ WKH JLIW RI D ZKLWH HOHSKDQW QDPHG &KRWD IRU WKH 6XOWDQ :KHQ he catches the eye of the royal DUFKLWHFW 0LPDU 6LQDQ DQG WKH 6XOWDQ¶V EHDXWLIXO GDXJKWHU -DKDQ LV SURPRWHG IURP VLPSOH PDKRXW WR DSSUHQWLFH ± DQG KLV IRUWXQHV WDNH D P\VWHULRXV WXUQ :KLOH -DKDQ DQG &KRWD DUH SXUH LQYHQWLRQV PDQ\ of the characters in the novel are EDVHG RQ KLVWRULFDO ¿JXUHV LQFOXGLQJ 6LQDQ ZKR VHUYHG WKUHH 2WWRPDQ HPSHURUV RYHU \HDUV (DFK 6XOWDQ¶V UHLJQ SURGXFHG PRVTXHV HQYLVLRQHG DQG H[HFXWHG E\ WKH DUFKLWHFW PDQ\ RI ZKLFK VWLOO H[LVW WRGD\ 7KH ³SORW ULFK FKDUDFWHU GULYHQ´ QRYHO LV D ³FDUHIXOO\ FUDIWHG ZRUN RI LPDJLQDWLRQ WKDW both reveals and conceals its VNLOO´ VD\V 5HEHFFD $EUDPV RI WKH )LQDQFLDO 7LPHV ³,W ZLOO FRQ¿UP 6KDIDN¶V UHSXWDWLRQ DV D ZULWHU RI LPSUHVVLYH UDQJH ZKR TXLHWO\ UHVLVWV categorisation and is not afraid to DVN WKH ELJ TXHVWLRQV ´ -DPHV 5XQFLH of the Independent believes this LV 6KDIDN¶V PRVW DPELWLRXV QRYHO \HW DGGLQJ ³,W LV KHU EHVW ± WROG ZLWK D JHQHURXV KXPDQLW\ WKDW ZLOO VXUHO\ UHDOLJQ DWWLWXGHV ERWK WR WKH LPDJLQDWLYH SRVVLELOLWLHV RI ¿FWLRQ DQG WR WKH FRQVWUXFWHG UHDOLW\ RI WKH ZRUOG DURXQG XV ´ ,I \RX¶UH ORRNLQJ IRU D ³FOHYHU FODVV\ SDJH WXUQHU´ ORRN QR IXUWKHU WKDQ 0LFKDHO &RQQHOO\¶V 7KH %XUQLQJ 5RRP $SSHDULQJ LQ KLV WK QRYHO ZLWK UHWLUHPHQW ORRPLQJ YHWHUDQ /$3' GHWHFWLYH +DUU\ %RVFK DQG KLV URRNLH SDUWQHU /XFLD 6RWR LQYHVWLJDWH WKH PXUGHU RI D PDQ ZKR VXGGHQO\ GLHV IURP FRPSOLFDWLRQV RI EHLQJ VKRW E\ D VWUD\ EXOOHW WHQ

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CRITIQUE

The winter season is the ideal time to re-acquaint yourself with favourites and classics from years gone by. The Royal Ballet’s festive version of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland at the Royal Opera House is the perfect way to tumble down the rabbit hole. Sarah Crompton of the Telegraph says that since the performance has been split into three acts (from two previously), “it fairly zings along but now there is time to appreciate Alice’s lovely encounters with the dissolving Cheshire Cat, the gyrating Caterpillar, the enraged Duchess and – above all – the deranged Red Queen”. Of course, a story as vivid as Alice’s must have dramatic set design, and this aspect of the performance also delighted Crompton, who says: “It is impossible not to be entranced by the ZD\ $OLFH WXPEOHV KHDG¿UVW GRZQ D UHDO KROH RQ WKH stage and then a puppet version of the same character is VKRZQ RQ ¿OP WXPEOLQJ WKURXJK D GL]]\LQJ VSLUDO WR WKH ground.” Interestingly, this winter’s performance will also be screened live to cinemas around the country on December 16 and 28. Until December 28. New York is treated to the stage version of the smashhit The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time at the Ethel Barrymore Theatre. Playing from now until April 26, 2015, the play tells the story of Christopher, a young autistic boy who sets out to investigate the murder of his neighbour’s dog, Wellington. Those familiar with WKH ERRN PLJKW EH FRQFHUQHG DERXW WKH GL̇FXOWLHV LQ adapting the text for the stage, but Brendan Lemon of WKH )LQDQFLDO 7LPHV VD\V DQ\ ZRUULHV DUH XQMXVWL¿HG “The narration provided by his teacher, Siobhan, helps ease us through some of the story’s brambles.” The performance of Christopher by Juilliard School graduate, Alex Sharp, is “the kind of smashing Broadway debut young actors classically dream about”, says

Ben Brantley of the New York Times, while audiences should “be prepared to have all your emotional and sensory buttons pushed, including a few you may have not known existed”. Brantley isn’t so convinced by the transition from book to play, noting that when the second act opens to Siobhan convincing Christopher to put on a play, “this eventually leads to a slightly cloying and hoary theatrical self-consciousness.” There’s no denying, however, that The Curious Incident... is one of the most successful crossover hits in recent history. Another book-to-stage adaptation is newly thrilling audiences at London’s National Theatre. Behind The Beautiful Forevers is “a gripping tale of life and loss in the Mumbai slums just dying to burst free”, according to 9LFWRULD 6DGOHU RI WKH +ẊQJWRQ 3RVW 7KH SURGXFWLRQ explores the dark side of India’s rapid economic growth, and Sadler says: “The way director Rufus Norris has recreated the Mumbai slums on the Olivier stage is almost breath-taking. The energy and the tumbling chaos of this world is quite something to behold.” For Susannah Clapp of the Guardian, the performance should be commended for its forward-thinking. She says: “It is a leap for the National. The setting is out of Great Britain; the cast is huge (more than 30 actors). The stories are important. The inhabitants of Annawadi have scarcely been heard before now. They live in the shadow of the airport, overlooked by luxury hotels.” Clapp also explores the problems of putting a book on stage, saying: “It would have been impossible to put all Boo’s intricacies on stage. Sensibly, though surprisingly for a political playwright, Hare has dispensed with some of the party political discussion, and there is a smudge of sentimentality in the ending which makes the drama less not more moving.” Until April 13, 2015.

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Theatre

You can seek the help of one doctor.

Or you can turn to Mayo Clinic.

At Mayo Clinic, a team of experts works together for you. No wonder Mayo Clinic was recognized as the No. 1 hospital in the United States by U.S. News & World Report. Visit mayoclinic.org or mayoclinic.org/arabic to learn more. ROCHESTER , MINNESOTA , USA

|

PHOENIX /SCOTTSDALE , ARIZONA , USA

|

JACKSONVILLE , FLORIDA , USA

CRITIQUE

Staged to coincide with this year’s FHQWHQDU\ RI ::, &RQÀLFW 7LPH 3KRWRJUDSK\ DW WKH 7DWH 0RGHUQ LQ London is “a subtle and haunting evocation of the past that does not UHVRUW WR PDZNLVKQHVV ´ VD\V WKH 7HOHJUDSK¶V $ODVWDLU 6RRNH 7KH exhibition focuses on the passing RI WLPH WUDFLQJ D GLYHUVH DQG poignant journey through over 150 \HDUV RI FRQÀLFW DURXQG WKH ZRUOG VLQFH WKH LQYHQWLRQ RI SKRWRJUDSK\ ,QWHUHVWLQJO\ WKH ZRUNV DUH RUGHUHG according to how long after the event WKH\ ZHUH FUHDWHG IURP PRPHQWV GD\V DQG ZHHNV WR GHFDGHV ODWHU 3KRWRJUDSKV WDNHQ VHYHQ PRQWKV DIWHU WKH ¿UH ERPELQJ RI 'UHVGHQ DUH VKRZQ DORQJVLGH LPDJHV PDGH

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WUXQFDWHG KXPDQ legs and bodies with actual KXPDQ KDLU 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ says Lance (VSOXQG RI WKH Wall Street Journal, the ZRUN LV ³WKH KLJK point of Gober’s oeuvre and of 0R0$¶V VXUYH\ ´ 7KH DUWLVW LV DW “his rawest and PRVW FRQYLQFLQJ ± PRVW VXUUHDO – when he NHHSV WKLQJV VLPSOH ´ EXW instead he can ³RYHUZRUN KLV WKHPHV´ 'HVSLWH the artist’s “hyperbolic PLVVWHSV WKLV VKRZ KDV ÀDVKHV RI UHGHPSWLRQ´ 7KH (YHQLQJ 6WDQGDUG¶V %HQ /XNH including the intricate underDSSODXGV WKH ³LQQRYDWLYH DSSURDFK´ ÀRRU SLHFH 8QWLWOHG ZKLFK WR GLVSOD\LQJ WKH LPDJHV DQG VD\V (VSOXQG VD\V LV ³VXUSULVLQJO\ WKH VKRZ ³GUDJV \RXU LPDJLQDWLRQ LQWR XQFRPIRUWDEOH WHUULWRULHV´ 7KH PDJLFDO´ DQG ³WKH RQH LQVWDQFH LQ WKLV H[KLELWLRQ ZKHUH 0R0$ IHHOV RQO\ UHDO ÀDZ LQ WKLV ³RWKHUZLVH WUXO\ WUDQVIRUPHG´ 7KH *XDUGLDQ¶V VRQRURXV DQG GHHSO\ D̆HFWLQJ -DVRQ )DUDJR PHDQZKLOH VD\V LW LV H[KLELWLRQ´ LV WKH EXVWOLQJ DQQH[H a “sober, unhurried and genuinely to the exhibition, which fuses D̆HFWLQJ´ H[KLELWLRQ 2YHU WKUHH SKRWRJUDSK\ DQG PHPRUDELOLD WKDW decades Gober has produced “rather interferes with its clear and sculptures and drawings that are FRPSHOOLQJ ORJLF ´ VD\V /XNH Until “spare, sad, eccentric and deeply March 2015. PRYLQJ ± EXW PRYLQJ LQ D ZD\ ,Q 1HZ <RUN 0R0$ SUHVHQWV WKDW FDQ EH PDGGHQLQJO\ KDUG a 40-year retrospective of WR H[SODLQ´ KH DGGV 7KH VKRZ¶V FRQWURYHUVLDO FRQWHPSRUDU\ DUWLVW FDWDORJXH GRHVQ¶W VKLQH PXFK OLJKW 5REHUW *REHU 7KH +HDUW ,V 1RW D 0HWDSKRU IHDWXUHV DURXQG ZRUNV on possible narratives, preferring ³LQWLPDF\ WR DQDO\VLV´ DOWKRXJK LW DFURVV VHYHUDO PHGLXPV LQFOXGLQJ FRQWDLQV ³RQH RI WKH PRVW EHDXWLIXO LQGLYLGXDO VFXOSWXUHV LPPHUVLYH HVVD\V RQ FRQWHPSRUDU\ DUW , KDYH VFXOSWXUDO HQYLURQPHQWV DQG D UHDG LQ \HDUV´ VD\V )DUDJR D GLVWLQFWLYH VHOHFWLRQ RI GUDZLQJV SDJH WRXU GH IRUFH E\ 1HZ <RUNHU 7KH RSHQLQJ JDOOHU\ IHDWXUHV KLV FULWLF +LOWRQ $OV ³WKDW VHWV *REHU¶V QHR 'DGDLVW FODVVLF 8QWLWOHG /HJ ZRUN DPLG SHUVRQDO H[SORUDWLRQV RI WKH ¿UVW RI ZKDW ZRXOG EHFRPH *REHU¶V VLJQDWXUH KDQGPDGH VH[XDO UDFLDO DQG UHOLJLRXV LGHQWLW\´ Until January 18, 2015. life-size beeswax sculptures of - 38 -

Shell Shocked US Marine, Vietnam, Hue 1968, printed 2013. © Don McCullin. Robert Gober Untitled. 1980-81. Ron Amstutz, courtesy the artist and Matthew Marks Gallery. © 2014 Robert Gober.

Art

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Image: By Madame Peripetie

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Image: By Madame Peripetie

ART & DESIGN

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Once upon a time

As a new exhibition explores the link between classic tales and catwalk shows, AIR looks at fashion’s everlasting love affair with fairy tales

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ART & DESIGN

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Text: Lara Brunt

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INTERIORS

&

Image: Louis Vuitton, Champs-Élysées

Bricks mortar R E F I N E D

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Image: Eric Carlson

INTERIORS

They’re like children,” says Eric Carlson, the former director of architecture at Louis Vuitton, on the subject of his design projects. “It sounds a little cliché, I guess, but it’s very personal for us and we’re very much involved – from the building, the interior and the furniture.” If you’re into fashion then chances are you’ve walked LQWR RQH RI &DUOVRQ¶V VWRUHV /RXLV 9XLWWRQ¶V ÀDJVKLS on the Champs-Élysées in Paris, the neighbouring Céline in Avenue Montaigne, Tag Heuer in London or WKH /RQJFKDPS ÀDJVKLS DORQJ 1HZ <RUN¶V 0DGLVRQ Avenue. And while Carlson’s brood stretches beyond said four stores, perhaps it is Louis Vuitton’s four-level 20,000-square-foot shopping space, which opened to much fanfare in 2004, which he is most revered for. “It was a learning experience for everybody – for me especially in terms of understanding how luxury works, and how the corporate French luxury world works, and I think very much so for the brand and the other brands that followed,” says Carlson, who co-founded the Louis Vuitton Architecture Department in 1997 before setting up his architecture studio, Carbondale, in Paris in 2004. “Architecture became a way to brag and give people an experience. Spaces were getting bigger, product lines were getting bigger and architecture, spatially (stairs, - 50 -

Image: Louis Vuitton, Champs-Élysées

He’s designed residential buildings and retail boutiques. He’s fitted out car show rooms and restaurants. He’s realised museums and plazas and worked on shopping malls and mega installations. For Eric Carlson, it seems anything is architecturally possible

Image: Longchamp, Hong Kong

double volumes and external façades), became manners to express the brand and tools for communication.â€? The decade that followed saw Carlson emerge as the pied piper of retail architecture, with luxury brands trailing the French maison and its starchitect. Carlsondesigned stores popped up in Dubai (Paspaley), Tokyo 7L̆DQ\ *HUPDQ\ (VFDGD 6KDQJKDL + 6WHUQ DQG Hong Kong (Longchamp), with pending projects as far away as Brazil. “There was a wave that added credibility to this retail world which had previously been ‘hands R̆ WKDWÂśV GLUW\ WKDWÂśV FRPPHUFLDOÂś ´ VD\V &DUOVRQ Âł%XW now it’s a whole new realm that architects are hungry for. There was a lot of development and growth for me in that situation because we were building enormous DPRXQWV RI SURMHFWV KLJKO\ UHÂżQHG WR >D FOLHQWÂśV@ particular location.â€? And it is this “customizationâ€? that runs throughout Carlson’s projects, be it personalised art murals (Longchamp on New Bond Street) or reinterpretations of a Parisian home (Louis Vuitton’s 3DULV Ă€DJVKLS “We go through a very complex research phase – and that phase is at least as long as the conceptual design SKDVH DURXQG ÂżYH PRQWKV Âą ZKHUH ZH WDON WR HYHU\ERG\ LQYROYHG LQ WKH SURMHFW :KHWKHU LWÂśV D KRXVH ṘFH RU store, we talk to everybody from the president to the VDOHV VWD̆ ,WÂśV DERXW NQRZLQJ HYHU\WKLQJ DQG EHLQJ informed, which has two dimensions to it: one is to be knowledgeable about it so that a design is responding to these nuances and complexities; the second dimension is that people, when you go through a design process, they need to feel part of it as they take ownership of these projects.â€? The father-of-two is quick to point out that he’s not limited to retail. “We’ve done almost everything,â€? he says of his previous projects. In Switzerland there’s the &DUOVRQ GHVLJQHG 7$* +HXHU PXVHXP LQ 6SDLQ the Plaza Ecija; in Tokyo the Celux club; and, returning to Paris for a moment, the glistening BMW showroom DORQJ $YHQXH *HRUJH 9 Âł, GRQÂśW UHDOO\ GLVFULPLQDWH I’m more excited about the client who is interested in a project than I am typology.â€? When it comes to business, Carlson is not interested LQ FRPSHWLQJ IRU FRQWUDFWV Âł7KH VXSHUÂżFLDOQHVV RI D competition will never really provide a really pertinent solution to this complex animalâ€?); he doesn’t really take briefs (“People latch on to one thing and you have to not latch on to one thing but many things and somehow coalesce them into one singular powerful VROXWLRQ ZLWK PXOWL IDFHWV´ DQG KH ORYHV GL̇FXOW clients (“Because they have something to sayâ€?). Too, he’s quick to compliment the “grey matterâ€? holed up in the Carbondale HQ (“We have lots of respectful grey matter and brains to get ideas, generate thoughts, and to leave no stone unturnedâ€?); he believes wholly in the importance of the client (“I’m kind of like an architectural psychoanalyst of sorts without being presumptuous about anything other than trying to

get the right spatial solution for the clientâ€?); and he’s nervous for architects who have delegated design and installation responsibilities to third parties (“By not taking on interiors and design, by abandoning these things, architects have been relegated to doing shellsâ€?). What are his thoughts on design trends? Does a trend dictate a project? “I hate design trends. People want to know what’s next because they want to get in there early and make money. It’s titillating. We don’t deal in trends, we create designs that people will follow; and our designs will become trends that people follow.â€? Does he have a signature style? “Please, if I have a style then put me to death because it means I’ve basically started copying myself. The whole point is to do something original and not copy yourself or someone else. Why would you hire me if I was just going to copy someone else?â€? As we approach 2015, what next for this American in Paris? “I would like to do something in a more landscaped context. We’ve done a lot of work that is urban and I would like to do something more in a resort VHWWLQJ $QG DLUSRUWV Âą , ZRXOG OLNH WR GR D ÂżUVW FODVV lounge.â€? In the near future, however, it is the renovation of a luxury shopping centre in SĂŁo Paulo, JK Iguatemi, that has his full attention. “For the luxury shopping centre we created pockets of luxury within the public areas by designing islands domesticity in scale and ambiance,â€? says Carlson. “In Brazil there are no Avenue Montaignes so because of the weather and the crime everything happens internally. Shopping centres are an oasis in many ways – you can socialise, eat and shop. It’s essentially a neighbourhood. It’s a lifestyle.â€? A lifestyle SĂŁo Paulo is sure to embrace.

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TIMEPIECES

TARIQ MALIK As the UAE celebrates National Day, we take a look at examples of special-order watches created to celebrate different occasions, which have become a source of collectors’ interest

AUDEMARS PIGUET & SHEIKH MOHAMMED

ROLEX & THE SULTAN OF OMAN

PATEK PHILIPPE & IBN SAUD

This timepiece only came to the public’s attention in 2013 at Christie’s inaugural Dubai auction. HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has had a number of commemorative watches created with his signature, in particular during his time as Minister of Defence when a number of Rolex sports models, including the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 and the GMT reference 1675 were awarded WR ṘFHUV 7KH 8$( JRYHUQPHQW KDV also given many such gifts. However, Rolex now rarely provides custom dials, therefore these have become highly sought after. The Audemars Piguet Sheikh Mohammed watch has less information on the circumstances around its creation, as it seems only a very limited number of pieces were ordered. However, it has been shown that the dial left the manufacturer as currently shown and was delivered through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the early 1980s.

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos is well known for his passion for watches, which has led to the creation of various dials across many brands. The most well-known among socalled ‘Oman’ dials is Rolex. These watches were mainly given as gifts to visiting dignitaries or for honorary occasions and were predominantly sourced through Asprey of London. The most famous are the Khanjar (dagger) dials, while the rarest and most sought after are the Qaboos dials that carry the Sultan’s signature in red. In particular, a very limited number of Sea Dwellers (reference 1665) were presented to a group of SAS operatives for their assistance in quelling a rebel uprising in the 1970s. The 1665, famous for being the Double Red Sea Dweller, had the name and depth rating replaced with only a signature, providing a simplicity and elegance for which collectors are regularly willing to pay multiple times the value of a similar Rolex.

Specially ordered by the Saudi Arabia Patek retailer in 1953, the reference 600/1 was created in honor of King Abdul al-Aziz III Ibn Saud (1880- 1953), founder of modern Saudi Arabia. In 18-carat pink gold, the enamel dial with ruby indices is a testament to Patek Philippe’s history of supplying watches worthy of royalty. Made in a series of 200 pocket watches and 150 wristwatches, each dial carries a carefully hand-painted portrait.

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Tariq Malik is co-founder of 0RPHQWXP WKH 8$(ÂśV ÂżUVW DQG only vintage watch boutique. momentum-dubai.com

TIMEPIECES In the 19th century, Moritz Grossmann was a leading German watchmaker, until his untimely death. CEO Christine Hutter tells AIR about the revival of the once-forgotten marque

W Words: LARA BRUNT

PHOENIX

RISING

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hen Christine Hutter, a watchmaking industry veteran of nearly 30 years, embarked on a mission to revive the venerable, yet long-forgotten GlashĂźtte brand Moritz Grossmann in 2008, even she could not imagine how far she would come in just a few short years. “I started really from the kitchen table. I had a lot of ideas and a business plan, but it was D YHU\ GL̇FXOW WLPH EHFDXVH , ZRUNHG DORQH IRU WKH ÂżUVW HLJKW PRQWKV ´ +XWWHU UHFDOOV After recruiting chief caliber designer Jens Schneider, followed by a design team, and establishing a workshop GlashĂźtte, the village at the heart of German horology for more than \HDUV WKH ÂżUP VWDUWHG WR GHYHORS LWV ÂżUVW movement. ,Q WKH PDUTXH XQYHLOHG LWV ÂżUVW timepiece, the Benu, inspired by ancient Egyptian mythology. “Everyone said we were like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so I looked and found the story of the Benu bird. The divine heron settled into its nest one HYHQLQJ ZKLFK ZDV FRQVXPHG E\ ÂżUH ,W OHIW an egg and the next morning a new Benu bird KDWFKHG ´ VKH VD\V The Atum, the second generation Benu Power Reserve and third generation Benu Tourbillon soon followed. “Independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour, who I admire very much, said to me, ‘The tourbillon is fantastic. Congratulations’. During Basel he came twice with collectors to introduce them WR RXU ZDWFK Âą FDQ \RX LPDJLQH"´ VKH ODXJKV Âł,W ZDV DPD]LQJ DQG D ELJ FRPSOLPHQW ´ A trained watchmaker, the Bavarian-born CEO is a unique combination of creativity, technical know-how and business acumen. She is also one of the few women at the top

of the industry. “I think I am more or less unique because no woman has ever created a manufactory from scratch, and it’s true that WKH ZDWFK EXVLQHVV LV GRPLQDWHG E\ PHQ ´ VKH concedes. Yet, she feels women bring a fresh perspective to watchmaking. “An end customer told me, ‘I love your watches and you can see WKHUH LV D ZRPDQÂśV WRXFKÂś ´ After completing her apprenticeship in Munich, Hutter began her career in the service workshop of Wempe, Germany’s largest luxury watch retailer, before later switching to sales. In 1996, she moved to GlashĂźtte and spent

‘I started really from the kitchen table’ the next eight years working in marketing and distribution for A. Lange & SĂśhne and GlashĂźtte Original, travelling regularly to the Middle East. “For me, it’s little bit like coming home. You see another side of hospitality and FRQÂżGHQFH LQ WKH 0LGGOH (DVW ,I \RX KDYH D IULHQG \RX KDYH D IULHQG IRU OLIH ´ VKH VD\V Hutter also began to nurture a long-held desire. “As a watchmaker, you have a dream in mind: to create your own watch and I carried WKLV GUHDP ZLWK PH RYHU WKH \HDUV ´ VKH VD\V “During my time in GlashĂźtte, I learned a lot about German watchmaking and discovered that nobody had secured the brand rights to WKH QDPH 0RULW] *URVVPDQQ ´ Grossmann was a GlashĂźtte watchmaker who established his workshop in 1854 DQG FUDIWHG ÂżQH SRFNHW ZDWFKHV SUHFLVLRQ pendulum clocks and chronometers, until his untimely death in 1885 brought an end to his manufactory. “Alongside Adolph Lange, Grossmann was the most important watchmaker in GlashĂźtte. He founded the German Watchmaking School in 1878 and wrote essays and books about German ZDWFKPDNLQJ ´ +XWWHU H[SODLQV With the help of her family, Hutter secured the rights to the brand but temporarily put her plans on hold when she moved to Switzerland in 2004 as managing director of Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA. Four years later, ZLWK WKH VXSSRUW RI SULYDWH ZDWFK DÂżFLRQDGRV she re-established the Grossmann brand. Âł,I \RX ORRN DW WKH PRYHPHQWV \RX ZLOO ÂżQG D QXPEHU RI WUDGLWLRQDO IHDWXUHV WKDW UHĂ€HFW WKH heritage of Grossmann, but we do not want to copy the old pocket watches – we would like to innovate and move them into the 21st century LQ ZULVWZDWFKHV ´ VKH VD\V The time-only Benu features a delicate rose-

gold bezel, solid-silver GLDO DQG ÂżQH WLSSHG brown-violet hands and houses the 100.0 caliber. The curved, milled cutout of the German silver 2/3 plate, a typical Grossmann hallmark, puts the spotlight on the large screw balance and its breathing hairspring. When it came to pairing the Grossmann balance with a tourbillon, key movement functions were reconceived to accommodate the aspirations of the watchmakers with respect to precision, ḢFLHQF\ DQG DHVWKHWLFV 7KH WRXUELOORQ cage is freely suspended from a cantilevered, hand-engraved cock made of German silver. It has an unusually large diameter of 16mm and the upper part of the cage is a V-shaped balance bridge that requires only two posts, a VLJQLÂżFDQW KDOOPDUN IRU ZKLFK D GHVLJQ SDWHQW has been registered. To reliably immobilise the balance in order to accurately set the time, the stop device must bypass the cage frame posts. “We decided to use a brush of human hair because it stops the EDODQFH LQ D VPRRWK ZD\ ´ VD\V +XWWHU 7KLV stop-seconds mechanism is another patentpending innovation. :LWK D WHDP RI WKH ÂżUP LV ZRUNLQJ RQ the next movement, to be unveiled at Basel DORQJ ZLWK LWV ÂżUVW ZRPHQÂśV WLPHSLHFH And, despite her technical knowledge and experience in retail, marketing and distribution, every day brings new challenges. “The next big challenge for us is to increase our brand awareness and tell the story of 0RULW] *URVVPDQQ ´ Available at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, seddiqi.com - 55 -

TIMEPIECES

One careful owner‌ Vintage watch auctions are among the best ways to buy ultra-rare timepieces. London’s Watches of Knightsbridge offer guidance on what to look out for when in the market for a classic design It really depends on the vintage,â€? says Toby Sutton, specialist auctioneer at London’s Watches of Knightsbridge. “The watch brands made a far fewer number of watches from the 1920s up until the 1970s so when someone buys a vintage piece they will stand out from the crowd and will know in some cases that they will not see another person wearing the same watch.â€? Sutton is telling AIR what makes a vintage watch particularly collectable. As part of one of London’s most exclusive auction KRXVHV VSHFLDOLVLQJ LQ ÂżQH DQG FROOHFWDEOH WLPHSLHFHV KH LV ZHOO SODFHG WR R̆HU WLSV “Recently collectors are looking at how a watch has aged – if the dial and bezel have faded to a nice colour or patina then this is unique and can increase the price dramatically – often referred to as ‘tropical’ or ‘chocolate’ dials,â€? he explains. “An interesting history is very desirable too, hence why many military pieces are very collectable. These pieces are also all uniquely issued so one is never the same as another. Also I see collecting watches like collecting cards in a school playground – it’s just the ultimate hobby for many people.â€? It’s a hobby that is burgeoning in popularity. Watches of Knightsbridge, established by Toby and his father Simon four years ago, held their most recent auction last month, and sold over ÂŁ500,000 in timepieces, including a rare blue dial Omega Speedmaster from 1965, which is so rare that nobody even knows why it was made. Also up for sale was a stunning Vacheron Constantin chronograph from the 1950s which sold for a mere ÂŁ17,024 – a remarkably low price, according to Sutton, which proves that not only are watch auctions good places to pick up rare watches, they can be found cheaply, too. When asked for tips on what to look out for when buying vintage watches, Sutton explains the complications, saying: “It really depends on what type of vintage watch from which SHULRG , JHW DVNHG WKLV D ORW DQG LW GL̆HUV IURP ZDWFK to watch. Generally it comes down to how original the watch is. The ultimate for any collector is if the watch is - 56 -

all-original, unpolished with the original box and paperwork. Unfortunately only maybe two per cent of vintage watches come like this. An original dial can sometimes hold up to 80 per cent of the total ZDWFKÂśV YDOXH EXW LQ VRPH FDVHV D UHÂżQLVKHG dial can increase the value. It sounds like a PLQHÂżHOG EXW LI \RX EX\ IURP D ZHOO UHVSHFWHG dealer or auction house then they can guide you on what is important to each model or brand.â€? For newcomers to the world of watch auctions, the process can seem daunting. But it doesn’t have to be, says Sutton: “Be prepared, do your homework, try and view the watches or request additional images, and try to speak to one of the experts about the

‘I see collecting watches like collecting cards in a school playground’ watches of interest to get their honest opinion,â€? he advises. And if something really special comes up, do anything to get it. “The Rolex Daytona [left] is the most expensive watch we’ve sold – it went for ÂŁ76,600,â€? Sutton recalls. “This reference was worn by Paul Newman and it was only made for a short period between 1969 and 1972. The original owner who sold it was just a little surprised at the outcome as he was unaware of the popularity of this model.â€? Finally, the auctioneer tells AIR which timepiece he’d kill to have pass under the hammer at Watches of Knightsbridge. “It ZRXOG EH JUHDW WR DXFWLRQ R̆ WKH RULJLQDO 5ROH[ Submariner watch worn by Sean Connery in WKH -DPHV %RQG ÂżOP 'U 1R ´ >&KULVWLHÂśV VROG D 7L̆DQ\ VLJQHG YHUVLRQ RI WKLV PRGHO IRU 86 LQ @ $V IRU ZKDW KHÂśG OLNH WR RZQ himself? “There is not one watch which I would like to own, the list is endless,â€? Sutton laughs, “This is the same great problem for all watch collectors.â€? For more information on upcoming auctions at Watches of Knightsbridge, visit watchesofknightsbridge.com - 57 -

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Top of the rocks QLFH LI , VROG D IHZ ´ KH ODXJKV ³0\ QHZHVW FROOHFWLRQ 0DJQLSKHDVDQW KDV D ORW RI UHG JDUQHWV LQ LW D VWRQH WKDW , ¿UVW ZRUNHG ZLWK LQ V 3HRSOH VWLOO DVN µZKDW LV LW"¶ DQG , TXLWH OLNH WKDW ,W¶V PRUH DERXW FUHDWLQJ WKH ORRN WKDW VXLWV P\ VW\OH DQG XVLQJ JHPV WKDW SHRSOH DUH LQWHUHVWHG LQ HQRXJK WR DVN WKH TXHVWLRQ ´ :HEVWHU¶V RZQ LQWHUHVW LQ MHZHOOHU\ EHJDQ DJHG ZKHQ KH HQUROOHG LQ DUW VFKRRO LQ 5RFKHVWHU .HQW ³7KH UHDVRQ , HQGHG XS WKLQNLQJ , FRXOG EH DW DUW VFKRRO ZDV E\ ZDWFKLQJ 'DYLG %RZLH DQG NQRZLQJ WKDW KH¶G EHHQ WR DUW VFKRRO ´ KH VD\V ³, ZDVQ¶W D PXVLFLDQ EXW , WKRXJKW µORRN DW WKDW JX\ KH GRHVQ¶W ORRN OLNH DQ DFFRXQWDQW RU VRPHRQH ZKR ZRUNV LQ WKH GRFN\DUGV¶ ZKLFK LV ZKHUH SHRSOH ZKHUH , FDPH IURP HQGHG XS LI \RX ZHUHQ¶W D EUDLQER[ ´

Stephen Webster’s bold and colourful designs are beloved of rock stars and royalty. Lara Brunt sits down with fine jewellery’s most unconventional star

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‘He just gave me these incredible rocks... they were big and colourful, so my style became big and colourful’

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Words: LIZ HOGGARD

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O R D I N A R Y

G I R L ·

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She may be the face of Chanel and worth £30 million but Keira Knightley still strives to appear as normal as her less well-off friends

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Images: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle 2014 advertising campaign, courtesy of Chanel.

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This month marks 50 years since Sam Cooke was sensationally shot through the heart. AIR examines the tragic final night of the singer’s life, and his longreaching impact on American culture

LONG LIVE THE KING OF SOUL Words: RICHARD JENKINS

Lady, you shot me!� were the last words to come from a shocked Sam Cooke’s mouth on December 10, 1964. As his eyes moved from the holes in his chest to the smoking gun in the hotel manager’s hand, one can only imagine the disbelief in his mind. The life of perhaps the greatest soul singer the world had ever seen was about to come to an ignominious end. Cooke had been on a roll. Since You Send Me catapulted him to the top of the US charts in 1957, the singer had enjoyed seven years of near-continual VXFFHVV SXWWLQJ RXW HUD GH¿QLQJ VRQJV OLNH :RQGHUIXO :RUOG &KDLQ *DQJ DQG SHUKDSV KLV ¿QHVW PRPHQW WKH FLYLO ULJKWV DQWKHP $ &KDQJH ,V *RQQD &RPH %XW success, despite his humble upbringings, led to Cooke’s demise.

%RUQ LQ 0LVVLVVLSSL LQ 6DP &RRN KH DGGHG WKH ÂżQDO ÂłH´ KLPVHOI ODWHU ZDV RQH RI HLJKW FKLOGUHQ ERUQ WR the Reverend Charles Cook and his wife Annie Mae. As WKH *UHDW 'HSUHVVLRQ WRRN KROG RI WKH VRXWK LQ WKH \HDU of Sam’s birth, Cook moved his family north, preaching across the country to the thousands of black families who were making the same journey. Finally, the family settled in Chicago, where Charles took a job in the pulpit at Christ Temple Church. It was here that the musical talent in his young family began to reveal itself, and ÂżYH RI KLV HLJKW FKLOGUHQ ZRXOG UHJXODUO\ SHUIRUP DV D religious act. Over the next several years, the family performed at churches all over the city – but one voice stood out above all the others. It was Sam, who would WHOO KLV VLEOLQJV Âł,ÂśP JRQQD VLQJ DQG PDNH D ORW RI PRQH\ doing it.â€? 3HWHU *XUDOQLFN LV DQ $PHULFDQ PXVLF ZULWHU DQG DXWKRU RI VHPLQDO &RRNH ELRJUDSK\ 'UHDP %RRJLH +H - 66 -

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tells AIR: “Sam was as gifted musically as any member of his or any other generation. If you were looking for a suitable comparison, I suppose it would be Ray Charles or Merle Haggard, in that he wrote, produced, and then sang – Ă€DZOHVVO\ – all of his songs. He left behind a catalogue of more than 130 songs, many of which, like Wonderful World, are standards which continue to be recorded to this day, while A Change Is Gonna Come has been an anthem not just for the civil rights movement but for social change of every kind from the time of its ÂżUVW UHOHDVH ´ By the time Sam had reached his late teens, black gospel music was getting showier, attracting huge crowds and plenty of attention – exactly what Sam was looking for. He idolised a singer named R.H. Harris, from the group Soul Stirrers. The young Cooke (it was around this time he amended his second name) was ready to leave his family behind and start making waves under his own name. He and four of his friends started their own gospel quintet named the Highway QCs. At Cooke’s insistence, the group leaned heavily on the Soul Stirrers’ back catalogue for material, and Cooke’s hours spent practising the vocal stylings of R.H. Harris were put to good use. The Highway QCs’ success in the gospel market was marked, but it still wasn’t enough for Cooke. Most of the fans of the genre were poor, many of them blazing the same trails the Cook family had followed to escape the economic depression. Cooke wanted more, and an opportunity was about to present itself that seemed like a dream come true – in 1950, R.H. Harris left the Soul Stirrers to perform solo. What could be better for &RRNH WKDQ ÂżOOLQJ KLV LGROÂśV VKRHV" $W MXVW \HDUV ROG he was on the road with his new group, performing over a thousand concerts across the US over a period of six years. After making dozens of records with the Soul Stirrers,

LV DERXW WR EH UHOHDVHG 7KH QDPH RQ WKH VOHHYH" 'DOH Cooke. Cooke had taken on this fake name to begin KLV SRS FDUHHU VR DV QRW WR R̆HQG KLV JRVSHO IDQV 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ IRU 'DOH 6DP /RYDEOH IDLOHG WR PDNH much of an impression on the charts. It wasn’t until the following year that Keen Records released Sam &RRNHœV ¿UVW VROR UHFRUG XQGHU KLV UHDO QDPH 7KH WUDFN ZDV FDOOHG 6XPPHUWLPH EXW LW ZDV WKH % VLGH <RX Send Me, which Cooke performed on the Ed Sullivan

‘The easiest way for Cooke to propel himself into the musical stratosphere would be to leave gospel and dive headfirst into pop’ a new facet to Cooke’s personality began to open up. He noticed that artists like Little Richard and Chuck Berry had begun to attract crowds that were a mixture of white and black faces – whereas he was playing to audiences that were predominantly black. At the same time, the white performer Elvis Presley was turning the world of music on its head, bringing rock-and-roll to the masses and sending legions of black and white fans into raptures of ecstasy. The easiest way for Cooke to tap into this new market and propel himself into the musical stratosphere would be to leave the world of gospel EHKLQG DQG GLYH KHDGÂżUVW LQWR SRS PXVLF Summertime, 1956. A new pop single called Lovable

Show, that broke through. Guralnick says: “Sam had VHYHUDO EUHDNWKURXJK VRQJV 7KH ÂżUVW <RX 6HQG 0H WKH YHU\ ÂżUVW SRS VRQJ KH UHFRUGHG XQGHU KLV RZQ QDPH established him as a number one pop star in a way that virtually no other African-American singer prior to him had been able to achieve. Bring It On Home to Me, like Ray Charles’ I Got a Woman before it, brought the LQĂ€XHQFH RI WKH EODFN FKXUFK DULVLQJ VSHFLÂżFDOO\ RXW RI Sam’s deep gospel experience) into the pop marketplace DQG HVWDEOLVKHG D WHPSODWH IRU VRXO PXVLF 7KH LQĂ€XHQFH RI $ &KDQJH ,V *RQQD &RPH VSHDNV IRU LWVHOI ´ The day after the Ed Sullivan performance, the song made number one on the Billboard pop chart, going on

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to sell over a million copies – more than 10 times his EHVW VHOOLQJ ZRUN ZLWK WKH 6RXO 6WLUUHUV 'DOH &RRNH ZDV dead. Sam Cook, gospel singer, was in the past. The era of Sam Cooke, pop superstar, was just beginning. And so began the stellar run of hits that would put Cooke in the pantheon of musical greats, and all the trappings that came with fame. Guralnick, however, dismisses claims that Cooke was a philanderer, saying: “If Sam was a ‘womaniser,’ I would be hard pressed WR ÂżQG D SRSXODU HQWHUWDLQHU RI KLV RU DQ\ RWKHU JHQHUDWLRQ ZKR ZDVQÂśW ´

‘It was the same need for respect that was to be Cooke’s downfall’ %\ &RRNH ZDV RQ WRS RI WKH ZRUOG EXW ÂżQGLQJ out the hard way that the world wasn’t fair. On October 8 of that year, the singer attempted to check into a hotel in Shreveport, Louisiana. His reservation was taken by phone, but when he arrived at the hotel to check in, he was turned away – because of the colour of his skin. Cooke, a proud man, refused to leave the building. The police were called and Cooke was arrested – standing up for his rights and for himself. This incident led directly to the polemic A Change is Gonna Come, which came to Cooke in a dream – the only song of his to have done so. The song became the anthem for the civil rights movement in the US and an emblem of racial equality. Guralnick says the song is causing an impact even today. “A Change Is Gonna Come was a direct response to the terrible racial inequities of the time — but more than WKDW LW IRXQG LQ WKH VSHFLÂżF WKH EDVLV IRU D XQLYHUVDO appeal for social justice everywhere. Which is why 3UHVLGHQW 2EDPD FRXOG TXRWH IURP LW VR H̆HFWLYHO\ LQ *UDQW 3DUN RQ WKH QLJKW RI KLV HOHFWLRQ ´ KH VD\V And it was the same need for respect that was to be Cooke’s downfall, a little over a year later. On the night RI 'HFHPEHU &RRNH ZDV GXH WR GLQH ZLWK KLV record producer Al Schmitt at Martoni’s, a celebrity haunt near Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles. Predinner, Cooke and Schmitt enjoyed several cocktails in the restaurant’s lounge, when a young woman caught the singer’s eye. He winked at her, and she winked back. For Cooke, dinner was cancelled. The girl was called Elisa Boyer, and her enigmatic looks entranced Cooke. Onlookers said that the two canoodled like a pair of old lovers in a private booth – like they had known each other for years, not hours. It wasn’t long before Cooke whispered in Boyer’s ear that perhaps it was time they got out of there, and the pair slid out to Cooke’s waiting Ferrari and drove to PJs, a happening spot on Santa Monica Boulevard frequented E\ WKH 5DW 3DFN RI )UDQN 6LQDWUD 'HDQ 0DUWLQ 6DPP\ 'DYLV -U HW DO $V &RRNH PDGH WKH URXQGV ZLWK KLV

famous friends, he left Boyer alone at their table – and another man took the opportunity to swoop. Cooke UHWXUQHG GUXQN DQG FKDOOHQJHG WKH PDQ WR D ÂżJKW 7KH WKUHDW ZDV VRRQ GHĂ€DWHG EXW LW ZDV FOHDU WKDW &RRNH ZDV XQGHU WKH LQĂ€XHQFH The night somewhat spoiled, the couple left PJs, again hitting the open road in Cooke’s bright red Ferrari. It wouldn’t take a master detective to surmise their SODQV Âą &RRNHÂśV SURPLVFXLW\ KDG OHIW KLP ZLWK R̆VSULQJ scattered across the continental United States, and Boyer was no stranger to the men on the Sunset Strip. Cooke drove past any number of motels before he reached his destination of choice: The Hacienda Motel, in South Central L.A. The sign out front read “Everyone :HOFRPH´ Âą ZKLFK LQ PHDQW EODFNV Bertha Franklin was working the overnight shift in the dingy lobby when Cooke and his companion arrived. She pointed out that the motel’s policy required the pair to register as husband and wife, and the singer duly ZURWH Âł0U DQG 0UV 6DP &RRNH´ LQ KHU ORJERRN EHIRUH stumbling to their bedroom, where the night took a turn for the unpleasant, and Boyer changed her mind about spending the night. “I started talking very loudly: Âľ3OHDVH WDNH PH KRPH ϫ VKH ODWHU WROG SROLFH Âł+H SLQQHG me on the bed. He kept saying, ‘We’re just going to talk’. +H SXOOHG P\ VZHDWHU R̆ DQG ULSSHG P\ GUHVV ´ Boyer was able to escape when Cooke was in the bathroom – taking his clothes and wallet with her. When Cooke emerged, he discovered an empty room and ZDV FRQVXPHG ZLWK UDJH 'UXQN DQG GUHVVHG RQO\ LQ D MDFNHW DQG VKRHV KH VWRUPHG WR WKH PRWHO ṘFH ZKHUH KH confronted Franklin, who happened to be on the phone with the motel owner. The singer repeatedly bellowed Âł:KHUHÂśV WKH JLUO"´ DV KH KDPPHUHG RQ WKH GRRU Franklin put the phone receiver on the desk, with the line still open, and went to the door. As soon as she got there, Cooke kicked the door in and seized the woman by her arms. A furious struggle ensued, and when Franklin broke free, she grabbed her .22 pistol, pointed it at the crazed man and pulled the trigger three times, changing music history with each squeeze. *XUDOQLFN VD\V WKDW HYHQ LQ KLV ÂżQDO IXULRXV moments, Cooke was acting with dignity. He says: “The circumstances of his death were sordid – but the reason for it was the same one that had almost gotten him killed in Shreveport just one year earlier: the refusal to be disrespected that he and all of his brothers and sisters had learned at their father’s knee. In Shreveport Sam stood up against the prevailing racial mores of the time over the remonstrations of his wife and brother that the police would kill him. (They didn’t. They just threw him in jail.) At the Hacienda Motel in Los Angeles, he was QRW JRLQJ WR OHW KLPVHOI EH VKDPHG RU WDNHQ R̆ E\ DQ\ ZRPDQ HYHQ LI VKH KDG PDGH R̆ ZLWK KLV PRQH\ DQG KLV clothes) – DQG WKH UHVXOW ZDV KLV GHDWK ´ Keeping your principles until the very end – as Cooke sang, so did he live.

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‘French women always choose quality over quantity’ fabrics, and the complicated business of sourcing them, as a girl growing up in Birmingham. “I used to go to the old rag market with my mother, who would make clothes for the family and things for the house. It was a huge warehouse space ÂżOOHG ZLWK WKHVH OLWWOH VWDOOV 6KH was careful about what she bought and we always calculated what we would buy and what we would use it for beforehand.â€? Her degree at the Royal College of Art and formative years working for Calvin Klein in New York and Pringle in London apart; this sounds like a perfect training for the head of a house as enormous as ChloĂŠ. “I suppose it ZDV YHU\ LQĂ€XHQWLDO $IWHU D ZKLOH LW felt natural, and I have always loved looking at fabrics.â€? This is one of Waight Keller’s chief TXDOLÂżFDWLRQV DW &KORp %HFDXVH DW ÂżUVW VLJKW D FODVVLF &KORp RXWÂżW

cotton and denim that, as you wear it, it ages and starts to tell the story of your life.â€? The breezy, bohemian collection featured pretty broderie DQJODLVH DQG SDVWHO FKL̆RQ GUHVVHV while butter soft suede shirt-jackets, convertible twill blazers and denim worked into cropped straight-leg jeans and skirts lent an urban edge. 6KH GHGLFDWHG WKH FROOHFWLRQ to the fashion house’s Egyptianborn founder Gaby Aghion – “an incredible forceâ€? – who passed away, aged 93, at her Paris home just GD\V EHIRUH WKH 6HSWHPEHU VKRZ Born in 1921 to a wealthy family of intellectuals, Aghion arrived in Paris LQ 6KH FR IRXQGHG &KORp VHYHQ years later with business partner Jacques Lenoir, introducing lighter and more free-spirited designs at a time when French fashion was GRPLQDWHG E\ WKH UHÂżQHG IHPLQLQLW\ of Dior’s New Look. - 74 -

Despite her outsider status, Aghion went on to embody the chic Parisian femininity that Waight Keller continues to interpret so H̆RUWOHVVO\ WRGD\ Âł,WÂśV LQWHUHVWLQJ because you really feel a cultural GL̆HUHQFH ZKHQ \RX JR WR WKH Middle East, and in a way, maybe I have a sense now of what Gaby went through when she moved from Egypt to Paris,â€? Waight Keller told Interview magazine in 2013. “There’s D PDVVLYH FXOWXUDO GL̆HUHQFH , FDQ imagine how she must have felt like an outsider. And then to create something that was particularly for Parisian women and to become iconic for Paris is quite an amazing feat.â€? When it comes to her own design muses, Waight Keller looks to women who ooze individuality. “Male designers often say their clothes make women feel powerful RU FRQÂżGHQW %XW IRU PH WKDWÂśV QRW what it’s about — what’s important is clothes that let you be ‘You’. That’s WKH XOWLPDWH ORRN 6R , DGPLUH Katharine Hepburn — she was very ‘Her’ — Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel all very much,â€? she says. In terms of her own style, Waight Keller says her get-up-and-go 3DULVLHQQH RXWÂżW LV ÂłD FUHSH GH FKLQH blouse, that’s an absolute French standby; then, being at ChloĂŠ, a soft pair of pants with volumeâ€?. The three pairs of shoes she would take with her on a desert island are equally FODVVLF Âł, ZRXOG GHÂżQLWHO\ VD\ D ChloĂŠ wedge sandal — it is one of those any time, any place shoes. And a pair of Manolos: I’ve been a huge fan for years. I have a lizard pair that I love; slingbacks, cream, with that QDWXUDO SDWWHUQ $QG ÂżQDOO\ D SDLU of boots, bikers or what I’m wearing today — Chelsea boots,â€? she says. And her most cherished piece of jewellery? “There are some bracelets that I often wear, including this Hermès one I bought a few years ago. And my watch, a Cartier men’s ZDWFK , ZDLWHG D ORQJ WLPH WR ÂżQG LW and I know I’ll wear it forever then SDVV LW RQ ´ VKH VD\V 6SRNHQ OLNH D true Parisienne.

Words: Luke Leitch. Additional copy by Lara Brunt

– perhaps a beige crepe blouse ZLWK D GHOLFDWHO\ Ă€DWWHULQJ SOHDWHG skirt – does not semaphore its expensiveness. “Well, that is another thing about the French. They don’t do the high street trend – it’s like, ‘Oh, yes, that is very London.’ Instead French women are very particular about what they buy, and they always choose quality over quantity for sure. They prefer very, very good fabrics in everyday staples. That’s why they always look so chic – it looks like just a skirt and a top, but the fabric and the colour elevate it.â€? This, agrees Waight Keller, is about a rejection of vulgarity, and a preference for the eternal over the ephemeral. That’s a tough message to transmit in fashion, which tends to focus on the short-term over the long game. But transmitting it she is. Backstage at her spring/summer 2015 collection, Waight Keller said her focus was on fabrics that tell a VWRU\ ÂłODFHV WKDW KDG Ă€RZHUV DQG birds, and the idea of utilitarian

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As the official sponsor of this month’s Dubai International Film Festival, IWC Schaffhausen reveals its latest celluloid inspired photoshoot with legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh, who captured this constellation of stars for the launch of the brand’s Portofino Midsize collection. AIR heads behind the scenes...

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,:& %UDQG $PEDVVDGRUV DFWUHVVHV (PLO\ %OXQW =KRX ;XQ DQG &DWH %ODQFKHWW 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

f this months

1.

IWC Brand Ambassadors actresses Emily Blunt, Zhou Xun and Cate Blanchett, 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

2.

3.

- 78 ,:& %UDQG $PEDVVDGRUV DFWRUV &KULVWRSK :DOW] DQG (ZDQ 0F*UHJRU 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

IWC Brand Ambassadors actresses Emily Blunt and Zhou ;XQ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

4.

1. Dressed in elegant black tuxedos, Cate Blanchett, Emily Blunt and Zhou Xun pose on the terrace of the Splendido, a grande dame which lists Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor as former guests.

2. The village has lent its name to the Portofino line since its launch in 1984. Here, Christoph Waltz and Ewan McGregor sip espresso at a coffee bar where time appears to have stood still for decades.

3. Australian actress Cate 4. La Cervara, an ancient abbey which is the main Blanchett, Brit-actress location for the shoot Emily Blunt and China’s and Peter Lindbergh’s Zhou Xun take to the control centre for three Mediterranean on board days, sees the stars a classic Riva boat, meander around its before returning to grounds during the the picturesque Italian course of the shoot. harbour town.

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MOTORING

By Invitation

ONLY

Luxury carmakers are making sure some of their models are ultraexclusive by only producing limited amounts, often hand-picking the buyers. Here are four of this year’s finest unveilings

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Jaguar “Lightweightâ€? E-Type Earlier this year, Jaguar shocked the motoring world when it revealed it was beginning work on six brand-new E-types – arguably the most iconic car ever built. The six “Lightweightâ€? Jaguars are made from chassis numbers thought to have been lost from the original run of 18 of the racing models. Jaguar has decided to build these six cars, which will cost over US$1.5 million HDFK WR WKH H[DFW VSHFLÂżFDWLRQV RI the last models built in 1963. This has required a painstaking search for materials and even a reversal of some factory processes to make the new models as authentic as possible. “Notableâ€? Jaguar collectors have already ordered all six cars, and the lucky half-dozen will take delivery of their museum pieces over the next 18 months.

Rarity Rating: 5/5

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MOTORING Bentley Mulsanne Majestic Hailed as the most desirable car ever to roll out of Bentley’s factory in Crewe, England, the Mulsanne Majestic exists in remarkably small QXPEHUV 7KHUH DUH ÂżYH LQ WKH 8$( ÂżYH LQ 4DWDU DQG ÂżYH LQ 6DXGL Arabia. The car itself is an absolute VKRZ VWRSSHU DQG WKH ÂżYH WKDW ZHUH unveiled in Jeddah last month have VHYHUDO SRLQWV RI GL̆HUHQFH IURP WKH standard Mulsanne. Firstly, each of the cars is individually numbered. 6HFRQGO\ WKHUH LV Âł0DMHVWLF´ branding on treadplate plaques and the front wheel arch. Finally, there is its stunning paintwork, a two-tone combination of Peacock Blue and ([WUHPH 6LOYHU 7KHVH DUH SUREDEO\ the most luxurious cars Bentley has ever produced.

Rarity Rating: 3/5

Aston Martin Lagonda The Lagonda marque hasn’t been seen since the late 1970s, but Aston Martin has decided to revive the brand by creating an all-new super saloon known as the Lagonda 7DUDI 7KH DOO FDUERQ ¿EUH ERG\ keeps the weight of the monolithic vehicle down, and the 6.0-litre engine pushes out incredible power – making this saloon comfortably the fastest in the class that it helped create. At the time of writing only 100 of these unique saloons will be made available in the Middle East, although at an exclusive launch event, AIR was told that invitations to purchase have been snapped up so quickly, there is talk of making it available in other regions as well‌

Rarity Rating: 3/5 - 82 -

Ferrari F60America Just 10 of these incredible Ferraris are being produced, in order to celebrate Ferrari’s 60th year in North America. The new car celebrates everything American drivers love – a snorting V12 engine and a soft top – and each of the roadsters is already spoken for. A spokesman for Ferrari tells AIR: “It had to be an extremely limited number, and 10 was the same number as the last true limited series made exclusively for the US, the 1967 275 GTS4 NART Spider.” The lucky 10 buyers, who were approached personally by Ferrari, won’t see their cars until the end of 2015 – but a car like this is certainly worth the wait.

Rarity Rating: 4/5 - 83 -

GASTRONOMY

Korea

Opportunities

Words: RICHARD JENKINS

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Judy Joo is the Korean-American chef taking the world by storm. She tells AIR about her new London restaurant, going crazy in Heston’s Fat Duck and being a woman in a man’s world

T

hink of your favourite type of food. Is it Italian, Chinese or perhaps Indian? If you’re from the UK, it’s almost certain that your answer won’t be Korean. This is something that Korean-American chef Judy Joo aims to change when she opens her new restaurant, Jinjuu, in London’s trendy Soho in mid-January. For many reasons, Joo is not your average celebrity chef. As a starter she’s only been in the kitchen for 10 years. Compared to someone like Marco Pierre White, who seems to have been around since the invention of bread, earning your chef whites in 2004 makes you something of a baby. For a main course, in that decade she has found incredible success, the likes of which it takes most chefs dozens of years to accumulate. And for dessert, she’s an absolute riot. During AIR’s interview, Joo has to pause conversations several times to break R̆ LQ ODXJKWHU 2K DQG KHUHÂśV DQ DIWHU GLQQHU PLQW IRU WKH ÂżUVW ÂżYH years of her career, she was a highĂ€\LQJ PDUNHW WUDGHU DQG WKH FORVHVW she got to a kitchen was ordering in expensive food while working late in the boardroom. Âł,ÂśYH GHÂżQLWHO\ KDG WZR OLYHV ´ Joo says. “Growing up on the East Coast of America, you’re very much on a fast-track. I went to an all-girls college, preparatory high school, Ivy League school, majored in HQJLQHHULQJ WKHQ ZHQW LQWR ÂżQDQFHÂŤ

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GASTRONOMY I was kind of on this track to, I don’t know, make it big? [laughs]. I did that at Morgan Stanley for about ÂżYH \HDUV %DFN WKHQ PRQH\ JUHZ RQ trees so there was a lot of incentive to work at these places. Everybody was brilliant, ‘Type A’, coming out RI DPD]LQJ VFKRROV $IWHU ÂżYH \HDUV of this I thought, I really don’t love Âż[HG LQFRPH VHFXULWLHV >ODXJKV uproariously]. I really wanted to do VRPHWKLQJ PRUH FUHDWLYH ´ Joo joined the culinary arts at the foot of the ladder – back in the classroom. She recalls: “I met a ORW RI SHRSOH ZKRÂśG VD\ VWX̆ OLNH Âľ, wanted to become a mechanic but , IDLOHG WKDW VFKRRO VR ,ÂśP KHUHÂś ´ Her education also included stints at Saveur magazine. She says: “I was

She also did a stint at Heston %OXPHQWKDOÂśV )DW 'XFN EXW LW wasn’t all inventing new ways to deconstruct the grapefruit and pairing snails with ice cream. Joo says: “Usually when you’re in a kitchen you’re very rarely in test

writing, doing recipe development, working in test kitchens. I really utilised my science and engineering background, because cooking is really science. You’re using these recipes over and over again until it’s absolutely perfect. And it makes D ELJ GL̆HUHQFH LI \RX XVH EXWWHU YHUVXV RLO YHUVXV ODUG WKH Ă€RXU WKH W\SH RI VXJDU \RX XVH Âą LW DOO D̆HFWV the end product. And from there I ended up working for Gordon Ramsay for about two-and-a-half \HDUV ´

you start. And you play all these games, like ‘how many of these can I make in an hour’. As a low OHYHO FKHI WKDWÂśV KRZ LW LV %XW WKHQ when you start making salads and putting things together, it gets more LQWHUHVWLQJ ´ 7KH FKHIÂśV ÂżUVW ELJ UROH ZDV executive chef at London’s Playboy Club - think bunny ears and canapĂŠs. After three-and-a-half years she describes as “the fun IDFWRU´ WKH RSSRUWXQLW\ FDPH WR branch out alone. Joo says: “One of

the patrons [of the Playboy Club] manages football players, and he loved my food. He found my number and said he wanted to see if we could come up with a concept together and that’s what happened. It’s modern .RUHDQ IRRG PDGH LQ D IXQ ZD\ ´

‘I really utilise my science & engineering background’ environments, you’re in production. You’re making the same thing all day long. You’re just hired like slave labour! [laughs] Making thousands and thousands of perfectly shaped diced potatoes and apples, for hours a day. It can drive you crazy, but that’s what you do, and that’s when

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The concept is Jinjuu, which aims to bring Korean food to the European market that is tipped to embrace it in a big way. Joo describes the restaurant, saying: Âł7KH JURXQG Ă€RRU FRQFHSW LV EDVHG around the Korean word Anju, which is food that you eat when you drink. It’s kind of snacks, fusion things like mini burgers, dumplings, small plates that you can make a meal out of it. And our main thing is Korean Fried Chicken – people call it the better KFC. Downstairs is more of a dining concept where we have big VKDULQJ SODWWHUV ´ It’s a long way to have come for a woman from the East Coast of America. It would be easy to describe Joo as a pioneer in FRRNLQJ DQG Âą Âł$V D ZRPDQ ´ VKH interjects. “My inspirations are of course Angela Hartnett on this side RI WKH SRQG 6KH ZDV WKH ÂżUVW DQG the only for a really long time. And then in New York, people like April %ORRPÂżHOG 2OLYLD )DONQHU 0HOLVVD Hamilton – there are so many but there needs to be more. It’s taking a while, but it will happen eventually. There are probably parallels in Wall Street. When I was at Morgan Stanley [in the San Francisco ṘFH@ , ZDV WKH RQO\ IHPDOH WKHUH There were secretaries and sales assistants who were women, but I was the only female professional. I think in New York there were three. Out of 500 people. It’s slowly starting to get better, and become D QLFHU HQYLURQPHQW ´ <RX JHW WKH impression that Judy Joo is the kind of woman who can help make that happen – let’s see what the next 10 years bring.

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TRAVEL

Magical ST. MORITZ As the Swiss playground celebrates 150 years of winter tourism, AIR takes to its slopes to discover how it became a haven for the rich and famous

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W

ith its combination of reliable snowfall, 300-odd days of sunshine a year, opulent hotels and chic boutiques, Switzerland’s original winter wonderland, positioned at 1,856m in the Engadin Valley in the south of the country, has been luring royals, celebrities and well-heeled snow bunnies for 150 years. Yet, according to legend, spending winter in the Swiss valley – so isolated it has its own language, Romansh – all began as the result of a wager. Summer tourism in the Alps was already in full swing when, in autumn 1864, hotelier Johannes Badrutt, owner of the Pension Faller (today’s Kulm Hotel), made a bet with the last of his English guests. “Come back at Christmas and stay until Easter,â€? he urged. “If you don’t ÂżQG 6W 0RULW] DV VXQQ\ LQ ZLQWHU DV LW LV LQ summer, I’ll pay your travel costs. If you do, you can stay as long as you like.â€? The Englishmen could not imagine that ZLQWHU LQ WKH 6ZLVV $OSV FRXOG EH DQ\ GL̆HUHQW to the cold and damp winters back home. Nonetheless, they returned to Upper Engadin in time for the Christmas season and left after Easter, returning to London tanned, relaxed and happy. And, so the story goes, Alpine tourism was born. 7KH %ULWLVK XSSHU FODVVHV Ă€RFNHG WR 6W 0RULW] ZKLOH DULVWRFUDWLF IDQV LQFOXGHG Kaiser Wilhelm II and Tsar Nicholas II. Grand palace hotels were opened and the area quickly became known for winter sports, from ice skating and curling to tobogganing and bobsledding. The natural – and soon notorious – Cresta Run was established in 1864, running from St. 0RULW] WR WKH QHDUE\ WRZQ RI &HOHULQD ZKLOH WKH 6W 0RULW] Âą &HOHULQD 2O\PSLF EREVOHLJK run, the oldest in the world, followed in 1904. Both proved popular with fearless society women, until they were barred from the Cresta Run in 1929 for reasons of decorum. In 1928 the town, by then well known for its H[FOXVLYLW\ ZDV KRVW RI WKH :LQWHU 2O\PSLFV DW ZKLFK WKH ÂżUVW VNL UDFHV ZHUH KHOG DQ honour it received again 20 years later. By the 1930s, the passion for winter sports, and skiing in particular, had spread throughout Switzerland, with 500,000 of the total Swiss population of four million estimated to be hitting the slopes. 2YHU WKH IROORZLQJ GHFDGHV FHOHEULWLHV - 89 -

TRAVEL arrived in droves, from Charlie Chaplin and Alfred Hitchcock to Brigitte Bardot and her husband Gunther Sachs, and even John Lennon. The Aga Khan learned to ski in St. 0RULW] E\ JOLGLQJ RYHU WKH VXUIDFH RI WKH IUR]HQ /DNH 6W 0RULW] ZLWK VNLV RQ KLV IHHW DV GLG the late King Hussein of Jordan. Even Lenin tried his luck on the ice and on the slopes. The 0DKDUDMD RI +\GHUDEDG PHDQZKLOH FKHFNHG in to Suvretta House with 500 trunks and 300 pieces of hand luggage. The exclusive resort has created history in RWKHU ZD\V WRR 6ZLW]HUODQGœV ¿UVW HOHFWULF light shone out in the dining room of the Kulm Hotel in the summer of 1879, while Caspar %DGUXWW -RKDQQHVœV VRQ RSHQHG (XURSHœV ¿UVW palace hotel, Badrutt’s Palace, in 1896. New sports have also been created here, the most recent being kite-sailing on the nearby Lake Silvaplana. Today, the Engadin is Switzerland’s largest ZLQWHU VSRUWV UHJLRQ ¹ DQG 6W 0RULW] LWV FURZQ MHZHO ¹ ZLWK RYHU NP RI SLVWHV DQG PRUH than 220km of cross-country trails. So what has the glamorous resort got in store for its 150th anniversary? The cultural and sporting celebrations begin RQ 'HFHPEHU ZLWK WKH 6W 0RULW] &LW\ 5DFH which will see celebrities, visitors and locals competing against one another at a ski cross event combined with a cross-country skiing circuit through the heart of the village. In keeping with the nostalgic theme, there will be a retro ski day in the nearby village of Sils on January 17, while visitors can experience the thrill of riding the 1.7km 2O\PSLF EREVOHLJK RQ D VOHLJK DQG D more modern one) throughout the season and watch the professionals at work during the bobsleigh and skeleton World Championships from January 12 to 25. In homage to those pioneering British YLVLWRUV IURP \HDUV DJR 6W 0RULW]œV DQQXDO Gourmet Festival will see British-based chefs, including Angela Hartnett and Claude Bosi, in the kitchens of nine hotels in the region. 7KH ¿YH GD\ HYHQW NLFNV R̆ RQ -DQXDU\ DW the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains, with workshops, tastings and gourmet dinners. The inaugural Snow Polo World Cup, PHDQZKLOH ZDV KHOG LQ 6W 0RULW] LQ DQG has become a much-loved annual event. It takes place over the last weekend in January, providing the unique spectacle of polo horses galloping nimbly across the frozen lake. Another annual highlight is White Turf, which - 90 -

WHERE TO STAY Badrutt’s Palace Home to 37 suites, a sprawling wellness centre and the resort’s smartest nightspot. Nobuyuki Matsuhisa will also unveil his latest Matsuhisa restaurant here this month. badruttspalace.com Kulm Hotel Located on the sunny south-facing slope at the end of the village, the Kulm features 15 suites, five restaurants and a US$12.5million spa centre facing Lake St. Moritz that opened last year. kulm.com Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains Also celebrating 150 years, the hotel has 45 suites, four restaurants including Michelinstarred Cà d’Oro, and a 2,800-square-metre spa. kempinski.com

takes place every Sunday in February. The thrilling race meeting dates back to 1907 and includes skijoring races, whereby brave men and women on skis are pulled along at high speed by unmounted horses, and standard horse-racing, albeit on snow. Rally enthusiasts will no doubt be heading to the 12th edition of the legendary WinterRaid from January 14 to 17. Described as “one of the toughest rallies in winterâ€?, it sees teams tackle mountains, wintery passes, ice and snow in vintage vehicles. Those looking for less action-packed pursuits will enjoy performances by the Engadin Symphony Orchestra between Christmas and New Year throughout the region, while Swiss light artist Gerry Hofstetter will treat visitors to a sensory extravaganza featuring light, music, skiers and ÂżUHZRUNV WKURXJKRXW -DQXDU\ DQG )HEUXDU\ 2QH RI WKH ÂżQDO HYHQWV LV WKH 6ORSHVW\OH World Cup from March 13 to 15. The sport, which debuted at this year’s Winter Olympics in Sochi, sees snowboarders travel down a slope dotted with obstacles, including quarterpipes, rails and progressively higher MXPSV $ WKULOOLQJ DQG ÂżWWLQJ ÂżQDOH IRU WKH groundbreaking grande dame of winter sports.

Suvretta House Surrounded by the Suvretta-Corviglia winter sport region two kilometres from St. Moritz, the Suvretta has 10 spacious suites and an acclaimed restaurant. suvrettahouse.ch/en Grand Hotel Kronenhof Standing six kilometres from St. Moritz, this elegant hotel has 46 suites, an aptly named Grand Restaurant, a bowling alley and ultra modern spa and wellness centre. kronenhof.com

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PROPERT Y Hollywood Screen Legend’s Exclusive Colorado Estate Colorado, USA Nestled deep within the meadows and forest just 12 minutes from the historic resort town of Telluride, Colorado, this property offers the ultimate retreat for those seeking privacy and scenic beauty. Carefully planned over the course of several years, the warm and inviting main house and story-book guest house offer exceptional design and meticulous craftsmanship throughout. The property’s vast acreage is threaded by a private trail system providing gated access into tens of thousands of acres of surrounding National Forest. Access for private and commercial aircraft is less than 10 minutes from the property’s front gate via Telluride Regional Airport. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$59,000,000

- 104 -

Ultimate Sporting Fly-In Community Idaho, USA This fly-in, fly-out community can be found among the rugged mountains and the Palisades Reservoir in Idaho. Extremely unique in its design – likely the most majestic, airport-based community in the world – The Refuge is a private community within the Alpine Airpark, a spectacular and user-friendly airport with inexpensive fuel and no landing fees. The runway, at 5,664’ elevation, is 6,000 Ft. long and is situated in a convenient east-west orientation – ideal for the prevailing winds. From the 65 acres available at an average of 2+ acres per lot, these home and hangar locations represent a recreational-rich opportunity.

Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

Price Upon Request - 105 -

PROPERT Y

Toro Canyon Park Road California, USA This modern masterpiece by Los Angeles architect Barbara Bestor offers unparalleled views of ocean, islands and mountains in a completely private setting on 160 acres of unspoiled wilderness. Newly constructed and designed for entertaining and relaxation, with custom glass walls that slide away to bring the outdoors in. The centre of the home is a loft-like space, anchored by an open kitchen. On one side, a glass door retracts to reveal a panoramic view of the Santa Barbara coastline, leading into a lush courtyard with fireplace. Inside, there’s an en-suite master bedroom, two additional bedrooms, media room, powder room, and yoga room with private garden. A separate guest house sleeps up to four. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

Price Upon Request - 104 -

Exceptional Location in Greenwich Greenwich, USA Beautiful Georgian estate amid 2.3 private and park-like acres. Exquisite detailing with the finest custom craftsmanship. This home features state-of-the-art technology and grandly scaled interior spaces. Access to a 3,000 Sq.Ft. blue stone terrace embraced by breathtaking, professionally designed landscaping and walled garden with heated pool. A truly magnificent and private estate.

Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$9,475,000

Grand Estate in Premiere Location Greenwich, USA This timeless stone manor is set on 3 acres of manicured property in a prime location in Greenwich, Connecticut. The home features an extraordinary master suite and masterfully crafted guest and family accommodations. The Bilottadesigned kitchen opens to a beautiful family room and office space. Generously scaled entertaining rooms open to terracing and seasonal outdoor area with pool and cabana. Amenities include wine cellar, home spa, fitness facility and home theatre. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$16,250,000

- 105 -

LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW Hassan El Houry

CEO of National Aviation Services My journey into aviation began with a lot of hard work and a bit of luck. ,W ZDV GL̇FXOW IRU SHRSOH WR WDNH PH VHULRXVO\ DW ¿UVW ± , ZDV \HDUV ROG SHUKDSV RQH RI WKH \RXQJHVW CEOs in our industry, and with no DYLDWLRQ H[SHULHQFH ZKHQ , ¿UVW WRRN WKH UHLQV , VHOHFWHG D VSHFWDFXODU WHDP DURXQG PH ZRUNHG KDUGHU WKDQ DQ\RQH HOVH , NQRZ LPPHUVHG P\VHOI LQ WKH LQGXVWU\ DQG PDGH VRPH UHDOO\ WRXJK GHFLVLRQV )RUWXQDWHO\ , WKLQN , KDYH RYHUFRPH this challenge. ,Q EXVLQHVV VXFFHVVIXO SHRSOH DUH DPELWLRXV IRFXVHG GULYHQ organised and savvy. They work hard DQG GLOLJHQWO\ WKH\ VSHQG TXDOLW\ WLPH ZLWK IDPLO\ DQG IULHQGV DQG LQYHVW LQ WKHLU PHQWDO DQG SK\VLFDO health. I also believe in constantly setting challenging goals, and so in P\ V , WROG P\VHOI , ZRXOG OLNH WR EH D &(2 EHIRUH , WXUQHG :KHQ LW FRPHV WR LQVSLUDWLRQ PDQ\ SHRSOH LQVSLUH PH ZLWK YDULRXV facets of their lives but there isn’t RQH SHUVRQ ZKR LQVSLUHV PH LQ D FRPSUHKHQVLYH VHQVH , DP VHOI PRWLYDWHG ZKLFK , IHHO LV YHU\ LPSRUWDQW DQG , KDYH QRW \HW PHW VRPHRQH ZKR , ZRXOG OLNH WR HPERG\ LQ DOO DVSHFWV RI WKHLU OLIH ,I , FRXOG JLYH P\ \RXQJHU VHOI RQH SLHFH RI DGYLFH LW ZRXOG EH WR DLP high and do not ever let anyone WHOO \RX VRPHWKLQJ LV LPSRVVLEOH I have a natural bias to action, but , KDYH OHDUQHG RYHU WLPH WR EH PRUH GHOLEHUDWH LQ P\ DFWLRQV DQG UHDFWLRQV ,W FRXQWV WR DFW TXLFNO\ EXW LW LV EHWWHU WR WKLQN VHYHUDO VWHSV ahead before taking action.

- 96 -

Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS, BOULEVARD | DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 3887000 FAX: +971 4 3887111 | WWW.19CENTURYANTIQUES.COM

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