Expect the Unexpected

At first, the name Credor may not strike a chord among even the hardened aficionado. The premium horology line is actually a Seiko brand subsidiary. Think of it like the plain-named ‘Applied Sciences Division’ of Wayne Enterprises, which secretly develops gadgetry for Batman. Credor is where the truly interesting stuff gets made. To put Credor in its context requires a brief dart through the company ranks. Japan-based Seiko, known for its afforadble timepieces, guarantees quality in each of its models by making all watches and components in-house. It has accumulated decades of respect by providing functional and precise entry-level everyday timepieces – some of which have attained cult status, such as the iconic SKX007 diver, which was favoured by Robert Redford in All Is Lost and is a staple inclusion in the most venerated of watch collections. From this foundation, Grand Seiko represents the next level up. Seeing ‘Grand Seiko’ upon a watch dial signifies a handmade approach and greater level of finishing. Credor, then, is the shogun at the head of Seiko’s collection hierarchy. Its name is applied only to ornate, limited edition timepieces, crafted using precious metals and the deployment of techniques such as painstaking engraving, expert lacquering and grande sonnerie.

It demonstrates Japanese craftsmanship at its finest, showcasing an ultra thin calibre 6830 tourbillon movement, metal engraving, lacquer finishing, and an 18k yellow and white gold hand-engraved wave design (on both the dial and the case back). This was inspired by Katsushika Hokusai’s woodblock-printed Great Wave of Kanagawa, and Nobuhiro Kosugi was part of the team working on this particular piece – he is the first watch designer to have received the title of Master Craftsman from the Japanese government. Conversely, Credor can also produce timepieces that are less wristbauble, but just as exquisite in their artisanship, harking back to the brand’s minimalist roots. Its pared-down Eichi II is a more understated effort, with a painted porcelain face and iridescent hands. The watch emerged from Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, and was influenced by the techniques of none other than Swiss watchmaking legend Philippe Dufour.It was “the result of everyone at [the division] coming together and thinking about how to make an even better watch,” remarked Credor craftsman Yoshifisu Nakazawa.

‘Emerged’ is an apt word for the division, actually. Credor’s ‘relative unknown’ status only applies outside Japan, as its reputation is well established domestically, having existed since 1974. But CEO Shinji Hattori has outlined an intention that “in the coming years, [we] will scale new heights of watchmaking excellence and commercial success.” And to begin addressing the Credor mystery, it unveiled a prestigious upmarket address in Knightsbridge, London, bolstering its existing (discreet) presence on Madison Avenue in New York. The top floor of the boutique is dedicated to fine-end watchmaking, allowing for hands-on appreciation of this craftsmanship, and many of its watches can be seen in Britain for the first time at the London outlet. It was a patiently considered move for Credor, (which derives from a French phrase meaning ‘the ultimate gold’), as it has been adept at flying under the radar and defying expectations, despite exemplary watchmaking credentials. It is unlikely to remain a hidden, Japan-only gem for long. For over four decades, this elite arm of Seiko has concentrated on compositions with high levels of finishing. Yet in the wider luxury realm, Credor is only just getting started.

Words: Chris Ujma