AIR Gama Aviation Aug'14

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CONTENTS / FEATURES

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Business Development Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com

Forty Six

James Brown

Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com

AIR charts the rise of the soul man through the 1950s and ‘60s.

Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com

Fifty Two

Carey Mulligan

Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com

The screen beauty has gone from treading the boards to taming Hollywood.

Senior Designer Adam Sneade

Fifty Eight

Duffy/Bowie

Designer Andy Knappett

Five iconic shoots with David Bowie explored with the photographer’s son.

Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud Production Manager Chalitha Fernando Advertisement Manager Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com - 09 -

CONTENTS / REGUL ARS Eighteen

Radar A new book tackles the global and cultural impact of football in the 1970s.

Twenty Eight

Art & Design Where did the pop art phenomenon come from, and where is it going?

Thirty Three

Timepieces Roger Dubuis and Bovet are luxury watchmakers ZLWK GL̆HUHQW VWRULHV.

Thirty Eight

Jewellery Olivier Reza on keeping his family’s jewellery business at the forefront of fashion.

Forty Two

Interiors A look at how designers of today are celebrating star designers of the past.

Sixty Four

Motoring Mercedes, BMW, Land 5RYHU DQG 'DUW] DOO R̆HU luxurious security.

Sixty Eight

Gastronomy AIR speaks with the head chef at ‘The World’s Most Expensive Restaurant’.

Seventy Two

Travel Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

)RXU H[FOXVLYH ¿HOG VSRUWV to try your hand at this summertime.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

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EXTREME SPORTS. ;/, (9; 6- (:;65 4(9;05 ;/, 5,> (:;65 4(9;05 = =(5;(., : *YLH[LK MVY [OYPSS ZLLRLYZ [OL UL^ = =HU[HNL : OHZ [HRLU H WV[LU[ YLJPWL HUK [\YULK \W [OL OLH[ 0[Z ZJPU[PSSH[PUN IOW LUNPUL HUK ZL]LU ZWLLK :WVY[ZOPM[ 000 [YHUZTPZZPVU M\ZL L_WSVZP]L WLYMVYTHUJL ^P[O [V[HS JVU[YVS ^OPSL H [VW ZWLLK VM TWO THRLZ P[ [OL MHZ[LZ[ ZLYPLZ WYVK\J[PVU (Z[VU 4HY[PU L]LY ;V L_WLYPLUJL [OL PU[LUZP[` VM [OL = =HU[HNL : MVY `V\YZLSM JVU[HJ[! (Z[VU 4HY[PU +\IHP )V\SL]HYK 7SHaH ;V^LY 6UL :OLPRO 4VOHTTLK IPU 9HZOPK )V\SL]HYK +V^U[V^U +\IHP <(, ^^^ HZ[VUTHY[PUK\IHP HL

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GAMA AVIATION

August 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

I’m delighted to welcome you to the August HGLWLRQ RI $,5 *DPDœV LQ ÀLJKW PDJD]LQH I hope you’ll enjoy learning more about our global business aviation group and the services we provide as you browse through the pages. Gama is one of the world’s largest business jet operators – we have nearly 80 business jets operating all around the globe. Established in the United Kingdom in 1983, we’ve grown to have bases throughout the Middle East, Europe and North and South America as well as operating licences issued by the UAE, UK, US and Bermudan Authorities. In addition to providing aircraft management and charter services, the group also provides aircraft maintenance, avionics design and installation, aviation software, aircraft cleaning, and leasing services to a wide range of clients. Gama’s expansion in the Middle East continues to progress well; our regional ÀHHW KDV JURZQ VLJQL¿FDQWO\ RYHU WKH SDVW 12 months with the arrival of a number of aircraft, along with the continued development of our regional footprint and services. This LQFOXGHV WKH RSHQLQJ RI RXU -HGGDK ṘFH DQG Abu Dhabi base. Also, Gama is now operating the only business aviation FBO at Sharjah International Airport, which is proving to be a very popular facility for Sharjah and the Northern Emirates, as well as a practical alternative to Dubai International Airport. Business aviation remains one of the best tools available to corporations and individuals who want to make time for themselves and it’s been pleasing to see a continued resurgence LQ FKDUWHU ÀLJKWV ¹ WKH ZRUOG LV WUDYHOOLQJ IRU business again and developing much needed revenue for the global economy. Thank you for choosing Gama – welcome onboard. Richard Lineveldt General Manager Gama Aviation

Contact details: charter.mena@gamaaviation.com gamaaviation.com - 13 -

GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation opens private aviation terminal at Sharjah International Airport

G

ama Aviation has opened its exclusive executive terminal (FBO) at Sharjah International Airport, creating a full service private aviation hub serving Sharjah, Dubai and the Northern Emirates. The facility at Sharjah International Airport is already performing above its target for weekly movements as operators and owners seek to cut the transit time of principles and crew to the Northern Emirates. The new lounge facility complements Gama Aviation’s dedicated hangars, maintenance facilities and fuel services in Sharjah. Further development is to commence shortly with the construction of a new hangar which will incorporate an expanded

maintenance facility as well as a much needed increase in aircraft storage capacity. Although last month marked the ceremonial opening of the facility, the lounge has been fully operational since mid-June. Feedback from principles, their HQWRXUDJHV DQG ÀLJKW FUHZ KDV EHHQ ³LQFUHGLEOH´ according to Richard Lineveldt, General Manager at *DPD $YLDWLRQ 0(1$ +H VDLG ³:H KDYH D ZRUOG FODVV product, with a great strategic location. Downtown 'XEDL LV D PHUH PLQXWHV DZD\ :H KDYH IHZ VORW or airways restrictions, facilitated by our strong relationship with Sharjah Aviation Authority and Sharjah Department of Civil Aviation. This translates LQWR WDQJLEOH FOLHQW EHQH¿WV SDUWLFXODUO\ VSHHG DQG SULYDF\ WKDW IHZ RWKHUV FDQ PDWFK ´ - 14 -

WITH US TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE From the moment you touch down at Gama’s Sharjah FBO you’ll know that time is working for you. On average, six minutes after you land you’ll be in your car and on your way. Only 10 minutes from Sharjah itself and a mere 20 minutes (or less*) from Dubai means you’ll be productive before others will have even picked up their bags. Gama Aviation is the exclusive FBO provider at Sharjah, call us for all passenger services and aircraft handling on +971 6557 0177, email fbo.shj@gamaaviation.com or visit www.gamaaviation.com for more information *Helicopter transfers

available

• Aircraft & passenger arrival and departure services • Customs & Immigration preclearance services • Private Majlis and First Class lounges • Chauffeur and crew transport options available • Flight Planning Services • Hangar, Fuelling, Aircraft Parking & Maintenance services • Hotels at preferential rates • Car ramp access

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GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation targets China

Gama Aviation adds a Hawker 800XP to its Middle East charter fleet

Wheels Up Flying High Gama Charters has hired 100 pilots to support ongoing deliveries of Beechcraft King Air 350i aircraft ordered by private DYLDWLRQ PHPEHUVKLS FOXE :KHHOV 8S and plans to recruit 100 more as the WZLQ HQJLQH WXUERSURSV UROO R̆ WKH DVVHPEO\ OLQH LQ :LFKLWD *DPD &KDUWHUV the US subsidiary of Gama Aviation of Farnborough, UK, dry leases and serves DV H[FOXVLYH RSHUDWRU RI WKH :KHHOV Up-registered 350i aircraft for member Ă€LJKWV LQ WKH 86 1RUWKHDVW 6RXWKHDVW and Southwest. Gama will also operate 10 Citation ;/6 PLG VL]H DLUFUDIW ZKLFK &HVVQD LV UHIXUELVKLQJ IRU :KHHOV 8S E\ \HDU HQG :KHHOV 8S H[SHFWV WR KDYH D Ă€HHW RI aircraft by year-end, including 27 of the 105 King Air 350i models they ordered last year, the 10 Citation XLSs, and access to 15 larger-cabin aircraft through a partnership with Jet Aviation Fleet 6HUYLFHV :LWKLQ WKH QH[W GHFDGH WKH lineup could grow to 200 to 250 aircraft, DFFRUGLQJ WR .HQQ\ 'LFKWHU :KHHOV 8S founder and CEO. 'LFKWHU SUHGLFWHG WKDW :KHHOV 8S ZRXOG UHDFK ÂłXQLTXH LQGLYLGXDO´ members within 10 years, possibly as soon as six to seven years. Since enrolment began nine months ago,

:KHHOV 8S KDV VLJQHG XS DERXW members. $W D SUHVV EULHÂżQJ DW WKH (%$&( business aviation conference in Geneva, 6ZLW]HUODQG *DPD &(2 0DUZDQ .KDOHN DQG 'LFKWHU UHḊUPHG WKHLU LQWHQW WR ODXQFK RSHUDWLRQV LQ (XURSH ÂłE\ QH[W VXPPHU´ PRVW OLNHO\ LQFOXGLQJ D EDVH LQ WKH /RQGRQ DUHD Âł2QH \HDU IURP QRZ LV D JRRG WDUJHW ´ 'LFKWHU VDLG Âł:HÂśOO KDYH D King Air 350i in the EBACE static display DUHD DQG UHY XS WKH PDUNHWLQJ DQG VDOHV ´ Khalek said Gama is hiring pilots on a pace with aircraft deliveries, which have reached 16 to date, training them at FlightSafety International. Recruitment is in the vicinity of operations bases at 7HWHUERUR 1 - :HVW 3DOP %HDFK )OD and Van Nuys, Calif. Gama Charter SUHVLGHQW 7RP &RQQHOO\ VDLG Âł:HÂśUH getting more resumes than we thought ZHÂśG JHW LQFOXGLQJ H[SHULHQFHG SLORWV ´ 'LFKWHU VDLG :KHHOV 8S WRJHWKHU ZLWK %HHFKFUDIW ÂłZHQW WKURXJK DQ H[KDXVWLYH SURFHVV´ LQ VHDUFK RI DQ RSHUDWRU WR PDQDJH DLUFUDIW RSHUDWLRQV Âł:H QHHGHG a partner who was going to be scalable and had the vision to broaden the DYLDWLRQ S\UDPLG ´ +H ODXGHG *DPDÂśV ÂłHQWUHSUHQHXULDO VSLULW DQG DWWHQWLRQ WR GHWDLO´ - 16 -

Marwan Khalek, group CEO of LondonKHDGTXDUWHUHG *DPD Aviation, sees China as the next growth opportunity for his global charter and management company. Âł:H KDYH D WZR SURQJHG VWUDWHJ\ IRU WKH UHJLRQ ´ Khalek told reporters at $%$&( Âł2QH LV RXU Hong Kong operation [established in 2012] and one is Mainland China, and we’re making good SURJUHVV RQ ERWK ´ 7KH company has signed a business cooperation agreement with a Beijing entity that would open the way for a China base, he said. Khalek added that Gama expects to make a formal announcement about the deal by the HQG RI WKLV \HDU Âł7KH cake is in the oven and EDNLQJ ´ However, the Chinese market for business DLUFUDIW IDFHV VLJQLÂżFDQW challenges, Khalek said. Âł7KH FRQVWUDLQW RI JURZWK in the region at the moment is not demand, it’s [the lack of] infrastructure WR VHUYLFH WKDW GHPDQG ´ As for hopes of loosening the current strictures on private aviation activity .KDOHN VDLG Âł7KH EHQHÂżWV of business aviation are becoming more recognised in the region. They’re understanding it’s about SURGXFWLYLW\ QRW OX[XU\ ´

George Best stands outside his fashion shop in Manchester, 1970, one of several boutiques in the city. ŠPress Association Images.

RADAR

> As the 2014/15 UK Premier League football season kicks off, Taschen Books publishes a beautiful new hardback titled The Age of Innocence, which tackles the global and cultural impact of the sport in the 1970s. George Best, one of the most iconic stars of his or any generation, features heavily and his rise and fall is one of the most illuminating parts of the book – a warning sign to the generation of superstar footballers set to dominate the game over the coming years. The Age of Innocence is available to buy now through Taschen. taschen.com - 18 -

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CRITIQUE

Film The Hundred-Foot Journey

Guardians of the Galaxy

Dir: Lasse Hallstrom An Indian boy moves to France, where he becomes the culinary apprentice to his father’s great rival, played by Helen Mirren. AT BEST: “It is both picturesque and elegant.â€? Comingsoon.net AT WORST: “,I WKH ÂżOP ORRNV OLNH LWÂśV EDVHG RQ DQ 2SUDK DSSURYHG ERRN that’s because it is.â€? Collider

Dir: James Gunn The latest Marvel adaptation to KLW WKH VFUHHQV IHDWXUHV D WDONLQJ UDFFRRQ DQG D JUHHQ VNLQQHG assassin in a bid to save the universe. AT BEST: “One of this year’s better IDQER\ IULHQGO\ EORFNEXVWHUV ´ The Guardian AT WORST: “The movie is in a tough position because it is full RI XQNQRZQ FKDUDFWHUV LW KDV WR introduce together.â€? Latino Review

Calvary

Dir: John Michael McDonagh An Irish priest is forced to examine his parishioners, whose problems UDQJH IURP EOHDNO\ FRPLF WR undoubtedly sinister. AT BEST: “Calvary touches greatness. It crawls clear through the slime DQG FRPHV RXW ORRNLQJ KRO\ ´ The Guardian AT WORST: “Time and again the ZULWLQJ LV VKRZLQJ R̆ IRU H̆HFW GHOLYHULQJ D ÂżUH DQG EULPVWRQH VHUPRQ ZLWK FRFN\ VZDJJHU ´ The Telegraph

Sin City: A Dame to Kill For

Dirs: Frank Miller, Robert Rodriguez Hyper-noir sequel in which an allstar cast comes together for crissFURVVLQJ FRPLF ERRN WDOHV 6W\OLVK violent and totally unique. AT BEST: “A Dame To Kill For weaves WRJHWKHU WZR RI )UDQN 0LOOHUÂśV FODVVLF stories with new tales.â€? Flickering Myth AT WORST: “Jessical Alba as Nancy ORRNV OLNH DQ XQGHDG %HHWOHMXLFH â€? First Showing

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CRITIQUE

Books The conceptual art world is ripe for satire, as most art fans would probably attest. In his debut novel, Randall, Jonathan Gibbs has produced a believable parody that also has something serious to say DERXW WKH IDPH ÂżQDQFH DQG RIWHQ foolishness that accompanied the KHDG\ \HDUV RI &RRO %ULWDQQLD DQG WKH HPHUJHQFH RI WKH <RXQJ %ULWLVK Artists. The satirical alternative history begins in the early 1990s. Damien Hirst is dead, after being KLW DQG NLOOHG E\ D WUDLQ LQ thus the art world’s attention falls instead on a young Goldsmiths College graduate named Randall. A genius of language as much as art, 5DQGDOO LV DEOH WR EDĚˆH EHPXVH and amuse the press, public and all DURXQG KLP +H PDNHV D IRUWXQH causes chaos, changes the art world and becomes “the most celebrated and reviled artist of the ‘90s and ‘00sâ€?. Gibbs has wisely chosen to tread softly, says the Telegraph’s Toby Lichtig, and thus “his novel hardly seems to be a spoof at all. It is both absurd and eerily believableâ€?. %XW WKH DXWKRUÂśV QRYHO LV PRUH WKDQ

mischief. “As with all the best lampoons, it dissects things that really matter and have gone awry – in this case the relegation of artistic innovation to banal VKRFN YDOXH OD]\ WKLQNLQJ second-hand nihilism, WKH ÂżQDQFLDO FLUFXV RI DUWLVWLF FRPPRGLÂżFDWLRQ ´ The characterisation, he adds, is “disarmingly sympatheticâ€? and the SURVH ³ÀXLG DQG LQYHQWLYH´ The Independent’s Max Liu feels there’s “plenty to admire in this novel but it’s under-editedâ€?, with protracted scenes and FRQIXVLQJ JUDPPDU /LNH Lichtig though, he agrees that it’s more than an art world satire. “Gibbs’s ZLOOLQJQHVV WR WDFNOH WKH same aesthetic questions as his characters is redeeming: ‘Is there any art in here, or does LW MXVW ORRN OLNH DUW" $QG LV WKHUH D GL̆HUHQFH"´ -HVVLH %XUWRQ LV DQRWKHU GHEXW novelist who has also caught the critics’ attention – in fact, her QRYHO 7KH 0LQLDWXULVW VSDUNHG D SXEOLVKLQJ IHHGLQJ IUHQ]\ DFURVV PRUH WKDQ PDUNHWV DQG KDV been compared to Tracy Chevalier’s *LUO :LWK D 3HDUO (DUULQJ 6HW LQ late 17th-century Amsterdam, The Miniaturist tells the story of Nella Oortman, a young Dutch girl who is chosen to be the bride of Johannes %UDQGW D ZHDOWK\ PHUFKDQW ZLWK D VKRFNLQJ VHFUHW +RSHIXO RI ORYH 1HOOD LV VRRQ GLVDSSRLQWHG %UDQGW LV LQGL̆HUHQW WR KHU EXW SUHVHQWV her with a beautifully wrought cabinet, an exact replica of the house LQ ZKLFK WKH\ OLYH ZLWK %UDQGWÂśV domineering sister and their loyal servants. Nella engages a miniaturist WR ÂżOO WKH WLQ\ KRXVH DQG H[TXLVLWH creations she receives bear an uncanny resemblance to their real- 22 -

life counterparts, suggesting that WKH PLQLDWXULVW NQRZV HYHU\ GHWDLO not only of the house itself but the secrets of its occupants. “Though WKHUH LV SOHQW\ WR HQMR\ WKH QRYHO falls frustratingly short of its own SRWHQWLDO ´ VD\V &ODUH &ODUNH LQ the Guardian. “Part of this comes from a shift in pace about halfway WKURXJK WKH ERRN ZKHQ %XUWRQ VHHNLQJ WR UDWFKHW XS WHQVLRQ DOORZV the mystery of the miniaturist to drift from the narrative.â€? Instead she pursues “a soap opera of a plotâ€? that leaves “the deeper questions she has raised largely unexploredâ€?. 3XEOLVKHUVÂś :HHNO\ LV LPSUHVVHG ZLWK the novel’s period detail and myriad SORW WZLVWV Âł6WUDQJHO\ HQRXJK however, the central mystery, the PLQLDWXULVWÂśV XQFDQQ\ NQRZOHGJH of the future, is never solved, and WKH UHDGHU LV OHIW XQVDWLVÂżHG ´ WKH reviewer concludes.

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JACK SONVI LLE , FLORIDA, U SA

CRITIQUE

Art

An exhibition devoted to Russian painter Kasimir Malevich, a pioneer of geometric abstract art and the founder of the avant-garde Suprematist movement, has opened at the Tate Modern in London. Born near Kiev in 1878, Malevich experimented with various Modernist styles early on in his career. At the 0.10: The Last Futurist Exhibition in Petrograd in 1915, he introduced his geometric Suprematist paintings. The Black Square, a stark, black square on a white background, became the symbol of his new movement. Cited by at least one critic as proof of the death of painting, it “is among the most revolutionary paintings in history,â€? says Ben Luke in the Evening Standard. The Tate’s Malevich: Revolutionary of Russian Art exhibition aims to replicate the groundbreaking 0.10 show, however, quiet contemplation of the artist’s seminal painting is ruined by a video “that booms and blasts away in the room,â€? says Luke. “It’s a shame that the key moment in the show is botched, because otherwise it’s beautifully paced and compelling.â€? The Guardian’s Adrian Searle declares the retrospective “fascinatingâ€?. He believes the room with the partial reconstruction of the 1915 exhibition is ÂłIXOO RI OLIH DQG HQHUJ\ MRVWOLQJ DQG VWLOOQHVV ´ 7KH ÂżQDO gallery displays Malevich’s more troubled paintings IURP WKH ODVW \HDUV RI KLV OLIH ZKHQ KH ZDV VX̆HULQJ IURP cancer and accused of spying for Germany. “This last room is a kind of theatre, everyone dressed up, nowhere to go, the future unknown,â€? writes Searle. On view until October 26. In Paris, the Pinacothèque de Paris has an exhibition devoted to the last queen of Egypt, The Myth of Cleopatra. Centuries after her death, the world is still

fascinated by Cleopatra, but what do we actually know about her? The exhibition has over 350 pieces and begins with archaeological works from the Ptolemaic period. It continues with the birth of the myth in $QFLHQW 5RPH ZLWK SDLQWLQJV VFXOSWXUHV DQG ÂżOP costumes illustrating the myth within art history. “Why does everything related to Cleopatra have to do with legend?â€? asks Marc Restelini in the Art Daily. The “outstanding exhibitionâ€? has attempted to answer this question and it is due to the “outstanding work carried out by the exhibition’s curator, Giovanni Gentili, that this show has managed to take on this depthâ€? and be “so all-encompassingâ€?. On view until September 7. Also in the French capital, it’s your last chance to catch the major retrospective of Lucio Fontana at the MusĂŠe d’Art Moderne. Born in 1899 in Argentina, )RQWDQD ZDV RQH RI WKH ÂżUVW ,WDOLDQ DEVWUDFW DUWLVWV of the 1930s and is considered one of the greatest visionaries of the 20th century. The exhibition features more than 200 sculptures, paintings, ceramics and installations charting his radical career. And it is Fontana’s “lifelong appetite for experimentâ€? that is the animating thread of this exhibition, says Apollo’s Emma Crichton-Miller. “What we see is an artist trying out new ideas, new materials, new techniques, all the time.â€? The Art Newspaper’s Claudia Barbieri Childs says WKH VKRZ LV ÂłSDUWLFXODUO\ VWURQJ RQ )RQWDQDÂśV ÂżJXUDWLYH ceramic workâ€? but its “major fault, and it is a large one, is its failure to engage with Fontana’s pre-war embrace of nationalism and fascism.â€? It is a complex matter, she concedes, “but to ignore it does him a disservice.â€? On view until August 24.

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CRITIQUE

Theatre adding: “Niggling things seem to have run DPLVV 7KH ¿UVW TXDUWHU KRXU XQGHUZKHOPV ,W ZDV DGDSWHG E\ 'R\OH IURP KLV RZQ ERRN EXW VRPHKRZ $ODQ 3DUNHU¶V ¿OP YHUVLRQ EURXJKW PRUH QXDQFH WR WKH HDUO\ FKDUDFWHU GHYHORSPHQW ´ $FURVV WRZQ DW WKH $OGZ\FK 7KHDWUH WKH 5R\DO 6KDNHVSHDUH &RPSDQ\ LV SHUIRUPLQJ +LODU\ 0DQWHO¶V WZR QRYHOV :ROI +DOO DQG %ULQJ 8S 7KH %RGLHV RQ VWDJH %DVHG RQ WKH OLIH RI 7KRPDV &URPZHOO WKH VWRULHV SLFN XS ZKHUH $QQH %ROH\Q LV WKH FRXQWU\¶V QHZ 4XHHQ KHU SDWK WR .LQJ +HQU\¶V VLGH KDYLQJ EHHQ KDFNHG FOHDU E\ &URPZHOO +RZHYHU WKH .LQJ EHJLQV WR IDOO LQ ORYH ZLWK SODLQ -DQH 6H\PRXU DQG &URPZHOO PXVW FKDUP FDMROH DQG RFFDVLRQDOO\ WKUHDWHQ WR NHHS SHDFH 7LPH 2XW KHDSV SUDLVH RQ WKH DFWRU FKDUJHG ZLWK OHDGLQJ WKH SURGXFWLRQ VD\LQJ ³2PQLSUHVHQW EXW QHYHU ÀDVK\ LV %HQ 0LOHV DV 0DFKLDYHOOLDQ SROLWLFLDQ 7KRPDV &URPZHOO ,W LV D VWXSHQGRXV VWHHO\ WXUQ WKDW KROGV ERWK SOD\V WRJHWKHU OLNH D VFD̆ROG EXW LW¶V DOVR GLVDUPLQJO\ GRZQ WR HDUWK 'DUNO\ KDQGVRPH EXW D PDVV RI QHUYRXV WLFV ± FRQVWDQWO\ VFDQQLQJ WKH URRP VPLUNLQJO\ WXUQLQJ DZD\ IURP WKH SHUVRQ KH¶V VSHDNLQJ WR ± 0LOHV¶V &URPZHOO LV D JDPEOHU ´ -DQH 6KLOOLQJ RI 7KH 7HOHJUDSK QRWHV ³,I WKHVH DGDSWDWLRQV FDQQRW TXLWH FDSWXUH WKH KDXQWLQJ VWUDQJHQHVV WKDW PDNHV 0DQWHO¶V ¿FWLRQV VR SRWHQWO\ RULJLQDO WKHLU YHUYH LQWHOOLJHQFH DQG ZLW DUH H[KLODUDWLQJ QRQHWKHOHVV ´ Wolf Hall and 0XVLFDO WKHDWUH KDV PRYHG RQ IURP VWRULHV WKDW IHDWXUH Bring Up The Bodies run until October 4. VRQJV WR EHLQJ VWRULHV DERXW VRQJV 5RGG\ 'R\OH¶V 7KH &DWH %ODQFKHWW LV QR VWUDQJHU WR ZRUNLQJ ZLWK WKH &RPPLWPHQWV UXQQLQJ DW /RQGRQ¶V 3DODFH 7KHDWUH 6\GQH\ 7KHDWHU &RPSDQ\ DW 1HZ <RUN¶V /LQFROQ &HQWUH WKURXJKRXW $XJXVW LV D UDXFRXV WDOH VHW LQ 'XEOLQ KDYLQJ SHUIRUPHG 8QFOH 9DQ\D WKHUH LQ 7KLV GXULQJ WKH V DQG WHOOV WKH VWRU\ RI EDQG PDQDJHU VXPPHU VKH UHWXUQV DV &ODLUH LQ 7KH 0DLGV ZKHUH -LPP\ 5DEELWWH ZKR GUHDPV RI PDQDJLQJ WKH ZRUOG¶V VKH DQG ,VDEHOOH +XSSHUW DUH WZR VHUYDQWV DQG VLVWHUV JUHDWHVW VRXO EDQG 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ IRU -LPP\ WKH VLQJHUV WKDW SORW WR VWUDQJOH WKHLU PLVWUHVV )LUVW SHUIRUPHG KH HQFRXQWHUV DUH DV IDU IURP $UHWKD )UDQNOLQ DQG LQ $XVWUDOLD WR UDYH UHYLHZV WKLV LV D UDUH RSSRUWXQLW\ 2WLV 5HGGLQJ DV LW¶V SRVVLEOH WR JHW %XW WKURXJK VKHHU WR VHH %ODQFKHWW XS FORVH DQG SHUVRQDO $FFRUGLQJ EORRG\ PLQGHGQHVV 5DEELWWH WXUQV KLV WURXSH LQWR WKH WR %HQ 1HXW]H LQ WKH *XDUGLDQ VKH LV LQ VHQVDWLRQDO VDYLRXUV RI VRXO &KDUOHV 6SHQFHU RI WKH 7HOHJUDSK ZDV IRUP ³3LFNLQJ XS HYHU\ QXDQFH DQG À\LQJ WKURXJK HQFKDQWHG VD\LQJ ³7KH ELJJHVW FRPSOLPHQW , FDQ SD\ KHU FKDUDFWHU¶V PRUH GL̇FXOW WXUQV ZLWK VNLOO DQG -DPLH /OR\G¶V SURGXFWLRQ LV WR VD\ WKDW LW UHDOO\ KDV JRW JUDFH ,VDEHOOH +XSSHUW GHOLYHUV D VWURQJ WH[WXUHG DQG VRXO ,W¶V PHPRUDEO\ JULWW\ DW WLPHV WKH VZHDU ZRUG SOD\IXO SHUIRUPDQFH EXW GRHVQ¶W EULQJ WKH VDPH NLQG FRXQW LV H[FHSWLRQDOO\ KLJK DQG DOVR SURYHV ZRQGHUIXOO\ RI UH¿QHPHQW DQG GHSWK DV %ODQFKHWW VKH VWUXJJOHV WR IXQQ\ DQG WRXFKLQJ 7KLV LV PXFK PRUH WKDQ D ERJ NHHS XS ZLWK %ODQFKHWW ZKR FRQYH\V WKH LQWHQWLRQ DQG VWDQGDUG FRPSLODWLRQ PXVLFDO ´ ,Q WKH *XDUGLDQ (XDQ VXEWH[W RI HYHU\ VLQJOH ZRUG LQ WKH VFULSW ´ /LPHOLJKW )HUJXVRQ VWDWHV ³7KHUH¶V YLUWXDOO\ QRWKLQJ WR EH IDXOWHG 0DJD]LQH VLPSO\ VWDWHV ³,I WKHDWUH LV WR EH MXGJHG RQ DERXW WKH FDVW WKH PXVLF RU WKH JORULRXV VHW ´ EXW ODWHU LQQRYDWLRQ DQG SXVKLQJ WKH ERXQGDULHV WKHQ 7KH 0DLGV VXJJHVWV -DPLH /OR\G¶V GLUHFWLRQ WR EH LQ QHHG RI ZRUN LV D VXSHUODWLYH SLHFH ´ The Maids runs until August 16. - 26 -

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ART & DESIGN

Tom Wesselmann, Still Life #34, 1963. Š Estate of Tom Wesselmann, VEGAP, Madrid, 2014.

M

ention pop art and Andy Warhol’s vivid silk-screen paintings of Marilyn Monroe or Roy Lichtenstein’s tongue-in-cheek comic strips from the 1960s probably spring to mind. But that’s only part of the pop art story. While pop art’s DNA lies in the culture and art of the United States, the bold new movement actually emerged in England in the 1950s. English art critic Lawrence Alloway is credited with coining the term, while fellow compatriot Richard Hamilton is widely considered to be the father of pop art. In 1956, Hamilton helped to organise the groundbreaking exhibition, This Is Tomorrow, at the Whitechapel Art Gallery in London. His section of the show used images culled from DGYHUWLVLQJ FRPLF ERRNV DQG ¿OP SXEOLFLW\ including his now-iconic collage, Just what is LW WKDW PDNHV WRGD\œV KRPHV VR GL̆HUHQW VR appealing?, which featured a naked woman and a bodybuilder surrounded by the latest household gadgets. The following year, he GH¿QHG WKH EUDVK QHZ PRYHPHQW DV ³SRSXODU transient, expendable, low-cost, massproduced, young, witty, sexy, glamorous, and Big Business�. Meanwhile, on the other side of the Atlantic, DEVWUDFW H[SUHVVLRQLVP KDG ÀRXULVKHG GXULQJ the post-war period, with artists such as Jackson Pollock and Willem de Kooning working spontaneously to make sweeping gestural marks, placing their inner impulses on the canvas. In contrast, artists such as Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg and Larry Rivers took a more playful and ironic approach WR DUW 6WURQJO\ LQÀXHQFHG E\ 'DGD DQG LWV emphasis on everyday objects, they began

THE BIRTH OF

POP

As Madrid hosts a new exhibition on international pop art, AIR looks at the emergence of the controversial art movement - 28 -

- 29 -

Ray Johnson, James Dean (Lucky Strike), 1957. Š The Ray Johnson Estate.

Roy Lichtenstein, Woman in Bath, 1963. Š The Estate of Roy Lichtenstein/VEGAP, Madrid, 2014.

working with collage and consumer SURGXFWV Âł/DUU\ÂśV SDLQWLQJ VW\OH was unique – it wasn’t abstract expressionism and it wasn’t pop, it fell into the period in between,â€? Warhol once said of Rivers. Pop art exploded onto the American art scene in 1962 with The New Realists show at Sidney Janis Gallery in New York, which featured the work of Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, among others. Coinciding with the consumer boom and the globalisation of pop music and youth culture, pop art helped FORVH WKH JDS EHWZHHQ ÂłKLJK DUW´ DQG ÂłORZ DUW´ KHUDOGLQJ RQH RI WKH PRVW liberating moments in the history of art. Âł3RS DUWÂśV ZKROHKHDUWHG HPEUDFH of the new culture of technology and consumerism demolished the heroic, subjectivist aspirations of abstract expressionism and brought the real world back to art,â€? says Paloma AlarcĂł, curator of Pop Art Myths, an exhibition currently on show at Madrid’s Museo Thyssen. Pop artists favoured realism DQG HYHU\GD\ HYHQ PXQGDQH LPDJHU\ Âł%XW not without healthy doses of irony, a dab of QRVWDOJLD DQG RFFDVLRQDOO\ D FHUWDLQ ZKL̆ RI existential dismay,â€? she adds. Andy Warhol became the poster boy for pop art and his Manhattan studio, the Factory, became a legendary hang-out for other artists and hangers-on. Employing mass-production techniques to create prints of presidents, movie stars and soup cans, Warhol challenged preconceived notions about the nature of art, fame and the artist’s public persona. Meanwhile, Lichtenstein used Ben-Day dots and imagery from comic books to create alternately saccharine and histrionic panels, while artists such as James Rosenquist created billboard-style paintings and Ed Ruscha FRQFHLYHG GHDGSDQ WH[WXDO FDQYDVHV Âł%\ substituting traditional artistic methods with every sort of mechanical reproduction, like photography and serigraphy, pop art dealt a mortal blow to the notion of originality,â€? says AlarcĂł. While pop art started out as a very maledominated movement, and continued as a chauvinistic and at times crudely objectifying FXOWXUH LW ZDV QRW DQ DOO PDOH D̆DLU Âł:RPHQ did make names for themselves, but they have been marginalised over time,â€? says art

‘Pop art exploded onto the American art scene in 1962 with The New Realists show’ historian Dr Sue Tate, visiting research fellow at the University of West England. Like their male counterparts, the work of female pop artists, such as Britain’s Pauline Boty and America’s Idelle Weber and Rosalyn Drexler, centred on consumer culture, but also had elements of feminism and empathetic social commentary. Âł:RPHQ URFNHG WKH ERDW RI SRS DUW DW D WLPH when it was struggling for critical reception. Pop quickly became popular and sold well, but the critics were very doubtful. Because the source materials of pop were very gendered – fashion, domestic products, interior design – women were inevitably more implicated,â€? says Tate. Forced to take a back seat to their male counterparts, who became icons of the era, by the end of the ‘60s female artists had largely been erased from the pop narrative. While critics and historians were not enamoured with its lowbrow focus, pop art nevertheless became a hit with collectors DQG DUW IDQV Âł3UDFWLFDOO\ QR DUWLVW IURP WKH era remained free from its pull, even if some ODWHU ZHQW GRZQ GL̆HUHQW SDWKV ,W ZDV DQ - 31 -

Andy Warhol, Black Light Self-Portrait, 1986. © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York, VEGAP, Madrid.

ART & DESIGN

intellectually powerful movement,” says Alarcó. Unlike other innovative artistic movements of the 20th century, pop art has remained as fresh and relevant today. “It is a type of work that remains very much alive, as demonstrated by the prices that these artists fetch at auctions and by the numerous exhibitions and books,” says Alarcó. Auction results are certainly staggering, with pop artists dominating 2013’s list of top lots. Warhol’s silk-screen painting Silver

Car Crash (Double Disaster) sold for a record US$105.4 million at Sotheby’s in New York; -H̆ .RRQV EHFDPH WKH PRVW H[SHQVLYH living artist when his Balloon Dog (Orange) sculpture sold for US$58.4 million at Christie’s in New York; while Roy Lichtenstein’s 1963 painting Woman with Flowered Hat also sold at Christie’s in New York for US$56.1 million. Born over half a century ago, pop art is well and truly here to stay. Pop Art Myths is on show at Museo Thyssen in Madrid until September 14. museothyssen.org

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All images courtesy of Museo Thyssen, Madrid.

‘Warhol’s silk-screen painting Silver Car Crash (Double Disaster) sold for a record US$105.4 million at Sotheby’s in New York’

TIMEPIECES

TARIQ MALIQ

Cup of Cheer

After an entertaining FIFA World Cup, we look at some of the timepieces that decorated the occasion its modern and cool interpretation of the Referee’s Board, incorporating elements of Hublot’s famous characteristics. On the sidelines, Felipe Scolari, the now former coach of Brazil, could be seen wearing the neon green and yellow King Power Scolari. In addition, Hublot launched two limited edition timepieces; the Big Bang Unico Bi-Retrograde Chrono and the Classic Fusion 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil. The Unico captures our attention as Hublot’s first bi-retrograde movement. We applaud the practical and easy-touse function while also capturing Hublot’s character in design. The main hours and minutes are located at 6 o’clock, ensuring that the ‘football timer’ chronograph remains the primary focus of the wearer. A window just below the 12 o’clock also Over the last few years, Hublot tracks whether it’s the first half or the has gained increasing attention by second. sponsoring some of the biggest The Unico is available in King names in world football. The roster Gold Carbon (limited to 100 pieces) includes teams such as Bayern and Ceramic Carbon (limited to 200 Munich, Juventus, PSG and icons pieces). such as Pele, Sir Alex Ferguson IWC was the long-time sponsor and Jose Mourinho. But its running sponsorship as the official timekeeper of the DFB (the German Football Association). It seems a match made of the FIFA 2014 World Cup Brazil in heaven given IWC’s very German may top them all. Most apparent was - 33 -

focus on clean, classic designs and efficient engineering. IWC previously released DFB-inspired timepieces to commemorate its participation in different competitions. The most notable of these was the IWC Big Pilot DFB, which was provided as the official watch of the Mannschaft at Euro 2012. Even though this sponsorship is no longer in place, Joachim Löw, the German national team coach, was spotted wearing the IWC Yacht Club Chronograph while instructing his team. Löw chose to wear it in steel with a black dial, and accented with a black rubber strap. An interesting aspect of this chronograph is the sub-dial at 12 o’clock that runs both an hour and minutes hand for 12 hours and 60 minutes, respectively. Although Parmigiani is the official sponsor of the Brazil Selecao, two of their superstars were seen sporting Richard Mille timepieces. In one of his press conferences, Neymar chose to wear a Tourbillon RM052 Skull while Thiago Silva wore an RM 027, famously worn previously by Rafael Nadal. At US$690,000, the RM 027 is the world’s most expensive sportswatch and carries the world’s most shockproof tourbillon. Weighing an incredibly light 19 grams (the movement only weighs 3.5 grams), we estimate that it’s the most expensive item per gram in the world. Leo Messi continues his role as ‘Friend of Audemars Piguet’. Widely acknowledged as the greatest footballer of this generation, Messi teamed up with Audemars Piguet in 2012 to work on the Royal Oak Leo Messi Limited Edition. At 41mm, it’s not as overly imposing as limited edition sports models tend to be. It uses the rare tantalum metal for the bezel, providing a very nice contrast with the steel body. Finally, the dial is a smooth anthracite dial as opposed to using the trademark tapisserie motif. This watch gets it right in many ways. Tariq Maliq is co-founder of Momentum, the UAE’s first and only vintage watch boutique. momentum-dubai.com

The Future of

:$7&+0$.,1* Roger Dubuis is the horology brand lighting up the world’s wrists

I

n the world of haute horlogerie, two things will do your reputation the most good: an est. date in the 1800s, and the words ‘Horloger *HQHYRLVÂś VWDPSHG RQ WKH FDVH RI your timepieces. The Roger Dubuis Manufacture, founded in 1995, has only one of these – so how does the company prove its worth to its many collectors? The answer is simple. While traditional watchmaking techniques are important, Roger Dubuis is proving how a modernistic approach is equally rewarding. The company is free to produce powerful and exuberant designs that are modern, aesthetically perfect and bursting with creativity. A small operation allows for

Roger Dubuis started his own atelier in 1980 after 14 years of designing complications for Patek Philippe. For many years, Dubuis took commissions to design new complications for several major brands, until Carlos Dias, a designer for Franck Muller, joined Dubuis to launch his own brand in 1995. Dubuis’ genius as a creator of movements complemented Dias’ H\H IRU GHVLJQ ZLWK WKH EUDQGœV ¿YH FROOHFWLRQV – La MonÊgasque, Excalibur, Pulsion, Velvet and the powerful Hommage – showcasing this horological partnership charmingly. For high-end collectors, Roger Dubuis is an important brand because it is the only manufacturer whose entire production is FHUWL¿HG ZLWK WKH *HQHYD 6HDO WKH XOWLPDWH recognition of exceptional horological

‘It is the only manufacturer whose entire production is certified with the Geneva Seal’ rigorous testing, and Roger Dubuis puts reliability and performance at the core of the entire creative process, from the initial VNHWFKHV WR WKH ÂżQLVKHG WLPHSLHFH )URP WKH YHU\ ÂżUVW VNHWFKHV WKH GHVLJQHUV HQJLQHHUV and watchmakers work together on choosing materials, components and principles of production. Each movement component is produced by the company, which ensures that it retains complete creative control over every single aspect of production – no mean feat, when some mechanical movements are comprised of over 600 parts.

quality. Each collection in the Roger Dubuis stable is instantly recognisable, and shares certain identity codes. The over-sized cases have transparent backs to allow vision of the movements, the three lugs attaching the strap to the case, and the tourbillion carriage shaped like a Celtic cross are all distinctive Roger Dubuis features. A Roger Dubuis timepiece is more than just a watch. It tells the world that you are in control of your image and recognise quality when it’s presented in a unique way.

- 35 -

TIMEPIECES Words: RICHARD JENKINS

A Brief HISTORY of Time Bovet Fleurier SA has produced timepieces of exquisite artistic beauty since 1822 - 36 -

W

atches as we know them today follow certain rules of form that are so ingrained, we take them for granted. We know that if we buy a timepiece, it will have a face, and it will have hands that point to a dial, and it will have a strap and a crown. But who decided these points? Which innovators came up with the simple ideas to make telling the time as easy as possible? In at least some of these cases, the answer is Bovet Fleurier. 7KH 6ZLVV ZDWFKPDNHU ZDV RQH RI WKH ¿UVW WR LQFOXGH D VHFRQG KDQG DV VWDQGDUG DQG DOVR DPRQJ WKH ¿UVW WR recognise that the beauty found inside the watch, in the mechanism of the tourbillon, was as important as the exterior – helping popularise the skeletonised views that allow the owner to peer inside at the intricate workings. Édouard Bovet was born in 1797, the son of a watchmaker. Having learned his craft under his father, the young Bovet went to London with his brothers to study watchmaking. Working for Ilbury & Magniac, he was sent to Canton in China – a move that would have long-lasting repercussions for the young Swiss. As soon as Bovet arrived in China, he sold four of his pocket

watches – earning him a small fortune, and giving him the idea to set up his own business. In 1822, Bovet founded his company in London, with the purpose of manufacturing pocket watches solely for the Chinese market. Demand was so high that the company had to contract with other Swiss manufacturers to help meet demand – Bovet pieces with a Juvet movement were common at the time. Bovet watches were so popular in the Far East that the Chinese name for the company, “Bo Weiâ€?, became a common noun for watches in China for several years, in the way that “Hooverâ€? came to represent every type of vacuum cleaner in the west. Édouard Bovet died in 1849, and the Chinese watch industry collapsed in the 1850s as worldwide shipping lines opened up and products from Europe and America Ă€RRGHG WKH PDUNHW ,Q WKH QDPH ZDV VROG DW auction and bounced from company to company for a FHQWXU\ XQWLO 3DVFDO 5D̆\ WRRN FRQWURO RI WKH ÂżUP Today, most Bovet watches incorporate elements of the original pocket watches in its designs. The lugs, high-quality enamelling and engraving all speak to the company’s past. Bovet watches are also unique in that many of the artisans are women, a rarity for highgrade watchmaking in Europe.

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JEWELLERY

All that

sparkles

- 38 -

Alexandre Reza is one of Place Vendôme’s great jewellers. How, asks AIR, is former banker Olivier Reza safeguarding his father’s eponymous jewellery empire?

W

hen Alexandre Reza started trading gemstones in post-war Paris in the 1940s few could’ve predicted the reputation he would earn himself in the decades that followed. Often regarded as a JHP FROOHFWRU ÂżUVW 5H]D VRXUFHG DQG VROG stones to Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet et al. throughout the 1940s, ‘50s and ’60s) and MHZHOOHU\ GHVLJQHU VHFRQG KH IRXQGHG KLV namesake label on the Place VendĂ´me in the 1980s), Reza’s zealous appreciation for his trade made him arguably the most powerful diamond dealer in the 1970s. And while broke ZKHQ KH VWDUWHG RXW LQ WKH Âľ V WKH *HUPDQV “took the little he hadâ€?), the jewellery house is today revered as one of the world’s most H[FOXVLYH MHZHOOHUV GHVSLWH D VL[ \HDU KLDWXV LQ the 2000s following a bout of poor health and a string of robberies in the 1990s which saw business slow down, culminating in Russianborn Reza’s retirement in 2007). With Reza in retirement, it was up to his son, Olivier Reza, to take the reins. And take control he did. The following year, he set about shrinking his father’s business and “liberatingâ€? the company from retail pressures QDPHO\ WKH VHOO R̆ RI LWV VWRUHV LQ &DQQHV Monaco and various other locations). Such a move enabled the marque to evaluate the inventory, keep overheads low and focus on creativity from its Paris salon without exiting the market. And on speaking to Olivier, his VWUDWHJ\ SDLG R̆ “I looked at the marketplace and thought, ‘we have the inventory to supply another network and relaunch the brand, but ultimately you end up building an industrial business’,â€? he says. “The marketplace was ÂżOOHG ZLWK WKDW DQG ZKDW , WKRXJKW ZDV really missing, and which is closer to what I felt like doing, is real creativity using very precious materials. So we freed ourselves of the constraints of a big network and company with major resources to run, and we focused

on using the inventory to make one-of-a-kind pieces with contemporary designs of today.â€? The inventory Olivier is referring to is “one of the world’s largest inventories of unheated and untreated coloured gemstonesâ€?, namely IURP &H\ORQ DQG %XUPD WRGD\ÂśV 6UL /DQND and Myanmar). “I discovered that the most interesting asset in my father’s portfolio was the collection of gems and pieces he had created through time, and that those gems and pieces had amazing potential.â€? And while Reza was demanding at home and DW ZRUN ÂłKH ZDV D WRXJK GDG WR JURZ XS ZLWK but on the other hand he was really drivenâ€?), it is his father’s eye for jaw-dropping stones that Olivier applauds the most. “His eye for selecting stones was impeccable. He followed his intuition and was really driven by beauty. And when I look at his work, his major pieces that we still own, the quality of manufacturing is absolutely amazing.â€? Auctioneers and collectors, too, see the value in a Reza piece, with his jewellery fetching millions of dollars at auction. “I really learnt the business at the beginning by going to auction houses and looking at what sells well and doesn’t sell well,â€? says Olivier, “and I can tell you that, without a doubt, when a piece is beautiful and made right, whether it’s new or old, it will sell more than the value it costs to make.â€? It’s hard to believe that six years ago this former M&A banker was advising multimillion dollar companies on their buyout strategies. Days spent deliberating over capital, shares and reports have been traded for talk of cabochons, proportions and objets d’art. But, says Olivier, the two professions are akin. “When I was a M&A banker I would advise companies [on] joint venturing and selling. I do the same thing with gemstones. The decisions I need to make are based on value and common sense – whether I’m going to recut the stone to increase its value, combine it with another stone. The make-up is the same it’s just one is driven by beauty and the other is driven by numbers.â€?

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JEWELLERY And the result of said “decisionsâ€? will be on display at next month’s Biennale des $QWLTXDLUHV LQ 3DULV WKH PRVW H[FOXVLYH ÂżQH jewellery exhibition in the world. Marking a long-awaited homecoming for the marque – its founder last appeared at the fair in 2000 – what can visitors expect from a brand that exhibits by-appointment-only? Âł:LWK FUHDWLYLW\ \RX JR WKURXJK YHU\ SUROLÂżF periods, and right now we’re on a roll. We are producing completely original designs that are very wearable, have volume and that are made exceptionally well. There will be three or four pieces from my dad as a reference point from our private collection. The rest will be completely new, original creations.â€? Olivier’s designs are as eye-wateringly brilliant today as his father’s were back in the 1980s. His proportions are spot on; his stones Ă€LUW H̆RUWOHVVO\ ZLWK ZKDWHYHU SUHFLRXV PHWDO WKH\ÂśUH SDLUHG ZLWK DQG KH KDV DGGHG HYHQ more) depth to the designs while drawing on the brand’s reputation as a gem collector. Asked to compare his designs to those

‘We are producing original designs that are very wearable’ of his father’s and he says this: “The 18th FHQWXU\ ZDV UHDOO\ D KXJH LQĂ€XHQFH RQ KLP he absolutely loved that period and collected it. And although my father likes a lot of abstract work, he always follows the details and the designs of the 18th century. I love it, too, but I collect more from the ‘30s in terms of decorative arts. My pieces are much more subtle and contemporary; although what I really take from him is to try to make sure that every piece we make has volume and is a pleasure to the eye at every angle.â€? Where next for this former banker who is tasked with safeguarding a family empire? Male jewellery, once he gets “the women jewellery rightâ€?, and art objects. “I’d like to make objects but the problem with objects is that they take as much time as jewellery and they’re a lower price point.â€? In fact, says Olivier, nobody makes beautiful objects any more so it has become a very rare art form. Rarer still, however, are the stones that he has incorporated into his new designs, ZKLFK ZKLOH VWLOO UHĂ€HFWLYH RI KLV IDWKHUÂśV philosophies, illustrate his creative vision to a tee. - 40 -

- 41 -

INTERIORS

Posthumous furnishings How designers of today celebrate star designers of the past will be open to debate at next month’s London Design Festival. AIR looks at what designers are doing to ensure their designs are respected beyond the creator’s lifetime and, more importantly, to what effect

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odfather of Soul, inventor of funk, grandfather of hip hop. In a career spanning six decades, James Brown acquired all these monikers and more. “In some respects he was the black Elvis because of his absolutely unparalleled popularity in the black community,â€? says Dr John Scannell, lecturer in media and music at Macquarie University in Sydney and author of Icons of Pop: James Brown. Like Presley, Brown was a threeÂżJXUH KLWPDNHU ZLWK HQWULHV on Billboard’s R&B singles charts. Known as the hardest-working man in show business, he amassed 800 songs and toured relentlessly right up until his death on Christmas Day in 2006, aged 73. In the process, he became one of the greatest musical innovators of the 20th century. “The emphatic groove that emerged through funk really laid the foundations for what would become dance music,â€? says Scannell. “He is by far the most sampled artist in hip hop and dance music and I think he will remain so because his music was so danceable and so tight, emphatic and urgent.â€? An undeniable legend, Brown was also a complicated, and often dangerous, man. “Brown’s whole life was marked by violence,â€? says Scannell. “Not to be an apologist, but he had such a rough upbringing; he was marked by that and it extended to most of his relationships.â€? He treated his band badly and his women even worse. As he himself once admitted: “I’ve got the Lord in one hand and the devil in the other. You never know where it’s going to come from.â€? Born in South Carolina in 1933, Brown grew up during segregation and the Great Depression. “The local industry was mostly cotton DQG HYHU\ERG\ ZRUNHG LQ WKH ÂżHOGV ´ says Fergus Mason, author of Get Up: The Life of James Brown. “His father scraped a living for a few years, but eventually decided to try

and get work in the cities.� Brown went to live with his great-aunt who ran a brothel near a railway in Augusta, Georgia. “I suppose that’s where you could say he started his entertainment career,� says Mason. With the onset of WWII, GIs were mobilised across the country. “There was a big craze for buck dancing [a foot-stomping folk dance]. Brown would dance beside the railway track and soldiers would throw coins out the train window at him.� By the time he was 13, Brown had dropped out of school to pick cotton, shine shoes and do whatever he could to bring in some much-needed money. “Hustling was probably the best word for it,� says Mason. “It was a tough area, rapidly industrialising, with lots of transient labour coming in looking for entertainment, bars and probably his aunt’s brothel.

‘An undeniable legend, Brown was also a complicated, and often dangerous man’ From quite a young age he was very charming and made money guiding customers to the local establishments.â€? ,Q DJHG %URZQ ODQGHG himself in juvenile prison. “He was sentenced to four counts of two to four years consecutively for breaking into parked cars. He was lucky though, as the prison was aiming WR UHKDELOLWDWH R̆HQGHUV VR WKH\ were allowed out sometimes to play sports, mostly baseball, against local high school teams,â€? says Mason. It was on one of these outings that he met Bobby Byrd, who would become a long-time collaborator. Byrd’s family helped secure Brown’s early release in 1952 and he joined his friend’s gospel group, the Gospel Starlighters, and began singing in and around Toccoa, Georgia. “I think it was really gospel that KDG D WUHPHQGRXV LQĂ€XHQFH RQ - 48 -

Brown and his music,â€? says Scannell. “At the time, there was a divide in black music between the secular and WKH VDFUHG ´ ,QFUHDVLQJO\ LQĂ€XHQFHG by the secular hits of Hank Ballard and Fats Domino, outside of church the group was known as the Avons and eventually, the Famous Flames. Performing to black audiences in nightclubs in Georgia and South Carolina, they became a tightly knit ensemble and Brown honed his skills as a performer, incorporating spins, drops and theatrics into his act. “Lots of stage acts at the time were very conventional, basically standing in front of the microphones and bopping around a bit, whereas %URZQ ZDV YHU\ Ă€DPER\DQW ´ VD\V Mason. In 1955, the Flames recorded a demo of the song that would become Please, Please, Please, a gospel-tinged reworking of the old blues standard Baby Please Don’t Go. Their manager, Clint Brantley – who’d also managed Little Richard – circulated the recording to various labels. The group was signed with King Records, despite the objections of owner Syd Nathan, with whom Brown would have a prickly relationship over the years. Please Please Please was recut for ṘFLDO UHOHDVH LQ 0DUFK DQG EHFDPH D 7RS 5 % KLW 5HĂ€HFWLQJ the speed with which Brown had asserted himself as the frontman, it was released as James Brown & the Famous Flames, much to the shock of his bandmates. As tensions rose, Brown assembled a new set of musicians and backup singers. After a number RI Ă€RSV %URZQ ÂżQDOO\ KDG DQRWKHU hit on his hands in 1959 with Try Me, which topped the R&B chart. A few months later, Brown and his new-look Flames debuted at the Apollo Theatre in Harlem, New York. “To some extent, Brown had still EHHQ FRQÂżQHG WR WKH VRXWKHUQ FOXE circuit, as that’s where the people who were buying his records were. His reputation was leaking out beyond that area, but he was still a southern club singer – not at heart

but in practice. The Apollo made him national,â€? says Mason. Billed as a place “where stars are born and legends are madeâ€?, the Apollo became famous in the mid1930s for launching the careers of artists such as Ella Fitzgerald and later Billie Holliday, Diana Ross & The Supremes, and Marvin Gaye. “The Apollo was probably the centre of black music in America at the time, although the jazz scene was centred down south,â€? says Mason. “Brown knew his career would need WR HLWKHU FUDVK RU WDNH R̆ E\ WKDW point – it couldn’t just carry along on the same track.â€? A string of hits followed, including Think, Night Train, Lost Someone, and Prisoner of Love. 3HUIRUPLQJ ÂżYH RU VL[ QLJKWV a week, Brown’s soulful singing, exuberant dancing and pure showmanship left audiences in raptures. His saxophonist, Pee Wee Ellis, once said, “When you heard James Brown was coming to town, you stopped what you were doing and started saving your money.â€? “I think the intensity of his stage act was one of the reasons he wanted to release a live album,â€? says Scannell. “The way the songs segued into one another, the way he directed the dynamics of the performance, and his relationship with the audience just couldn’t be captured by singles.â€? His record company, however, had other ideas. “Syd Nathan was one of the old independent record guys who were capitalising on the black market. They were important facilitators of getting the music out to a broader audience, but the relationships between these small labels and their artists were often pretty inequitable,â€? says Scannell. “I think Nathan had his idea of what would sell and Brown had his. Most black artists at the time were releasing singles because the fans FRXOG UHDOO\ RQO\ D̆RUG VLQJOHV VR albums weren’t a consideration.â€? Undeterred, on a single night – 2FWREHU Âą %URZQ UHFRUGHG a live concert album at the Apollo, ZKLFK KH ÂżQDQFHG KLPVHOI 7KH - 50 -

album, Live at the Apollo, proved Brown’s greatest commercial success yet, spending 66 weeks on the Billboard Top Pop Albums chart and peaking at number two. Record stores struggled to keep up with demand and radio DJs often played the album in its entirety. “It was one RI WKH ÂżUVW DOEXPV WKDW ZDV SOD\HG DV a single performance and some radio stations just played it over and over again,â€? says Scannell. The album DOVR ÂżUPO\ HVWDEOLVKHG %URZQÂśV mainstream appeal. “Brown’s deepest desire was to be a crossover success,â€? he adds. Brown cemented his popularity with a scorching performance in the TAMI Show, a live concert in Santa 0RQLFD WKDW ZDV UHOHDVHG DV D ÂżOP LQ 'HFHPEHU IDPRXVO\ XSVWDJLQJ the headline act, The Rolling Stones. Keith Richards later admitted that going onstage after Brown was the worst decision of their career. The following year, Brown

ambiguous. As race riots enveloped the country following Martin Luther King Jr’s assassination in April 1968, he famously gave a televised concert in Boston the day after to calm things down – but only after haggling over his fee. A few months later, after pressure from activists to take a bigger stance on black issues, he recorded Say It Loud: I’m Black and I’m Proud. Then in 1972, he surprised many by endorsing Republican politician Richard Nixon. “I think who he chose to get involved with politically was down to how much exposure he would get,â€? Scannell says. Throughout the 1970s, Brown recorded several more hits, most notably Sex Machine and Get Up 2̆D 7KDW 7KLQJ DOWKRXJK WKH ULVH of disco saw his popularity wane. “I think a lot of the soul artists of the ‘60s were considered anachronistic in a way. By time it got the late ‘70s, early ‘80s, Brown still had his

‘When you heard James Brown was coming to town, you stopped what you were doing and started saving your money’ released Papa’s Got a Brand New Bag, often cited as the birth of funk. “In some respects this was the major mainstream indication of funk’s emergence, but you can hear elements of this in his earlier music,â€? says Scannell. “Having that HPSKDWLF GULYH RQ WKH ÂżUVW EHDW RI the bar, when most popular music at the time emphasised the back beat, set up a new propulsive, urgent kind of rhythm that characterised funk.â€? 7KH VRQJ ZRQ KLP KLV ÂżUVW *UDPP\ and he followed up with Cold Sweat, RIWHQ FDOOHG WKH ÂżUVW WUXH IXQN VRQJ Brown also began devoting more energy to social causes. In 1966, he recorded Don’t Be a Dropout, aimed at persuading the young black community to stay in school. His relationship with the Civil Rights movement was a bit more - 51 -

entrenched long-term fans, but he ZDV KDYLQJ D GL̇FXOW SHULRG ´ VD\V Scannell. After becoming one of WKH ÂżUVW PXVLFLDQV LQGXFWHG LQWR the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1986, he slowly descended into drug addiction and violence, eventually ending up back in prison. After being released on parole in 1991, he returned to the only thing he knew: the stage, touring intermittently for the rest of his life. Since his passing, the soul icon’s legacy has continued to grow - and the upcoming biopic about his life promises to shed even more light on this most complicated of men. Directed by Tate Taylor, and starring Chadwick Boseman, the movie follows Brown through his turbulent childhood and his even more turbulent career.

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Carey on Creating Screen-queen Carey Mulligan has perfected the art of balancing Hollywood with treading the boards, as RICHARD JENKINS discovers

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Quotes from: The Telegraph, The Guardian, The Wrap, AskMen.com

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Take

FIVE

Is David Bowie the most influential artist of all time? A new book suggests that the icon remains unchallenged Words: RICHARD JENKINS

Between 1972 and 1980, David Bowie changed the world of music. Not only that, he changed himself – morphing from one persona to the next in an ever changing cast of characters that remain indelibly linked with the music of their time. Starting from 1972’s Ziggy Stardust, Bowie reinvented himself as the creator of Aladdin Sane, the Thin White Duke, Lodger and Scary Monsters (and Super Creeps). With him every VWHS RI WKH ZD\ ZDV SKRWRJUDSKHU %ULDQ 'X̆\ the man responsible for capturing these iconic

inventions and contributing to some of the most memorable album covers of all time. 'X̆\ %RZLH )LYH 6HVVLRQV LV D VWXQQLQJ QHZ ERRN H[SORULQJ WKH EDFN VWRU\ RI WKHVH ¿YH photographic sessions, featuring previously unseen images and personal insights from insiders on the shoots. Better placed than PRVW WR FRPPHQW LV &KULV 'X̆\ WKH VRQ RI WKH photographer, who, along with Kevin Conn, has spent several years putting this important ERRN WRJHWKHU &KULV 'X̆\ VSRNH ZLWK $,5 DERXW HDFK RI WKHVH ¿YH LFRQLF VHVVLRQV - 58 -

ZIGGY STARDUST: AUGUST 1972 ³7KHVH ¿YH VHVVLRQV WKDW SXQFWXDWH 'DYLG¶V FDUHHU UHDOO\ GR KLJKOLJKW WKH KLJK SRLQWV 2EYLRXVO\ ORWV RI RWKHU SKRWRJUDSKHUV ZHUH WDNLQJ SLFWXUHV RI 'DYLG DW WKH VDPH WLPH EXW 'X̆\¶V VWDQG RXW DV PLOHVWRQHV LQ 'DYLG¶V FDUHHU 7RQ\ 'HIULHV ZKR ZDV 'DYLG¶V PDQDJHU ZDV D IULHQG RI 'X̆\¶V DQG KH LQWURGXFHG 'X̆\ WR 'DYLG DQG WKLV ZDV WKHLU ¿UVW VHVVLRQ $W WKDW WLPH 'X̆\ ZDV DW WKH WRS RI KLV JDPH DQG 'DYLG ZDV D UHODWLYH XQNQRZQ $V DOZD\V WKH SKRWRJUDSKHU VLWWHU HOHPHQW LV EDVHG RQ FKHPLVWU\ DQG , ZDV WDONLQJ DERXW WKLV HDUO\ VHVVLRQ ZLWK .HYLQ &RQQ >WKH ERRN¶V FR DXWKRU@ DQG GLVFXVVLQJ WKH )UHGGLH %XUUHWWL VXLW WKDW 'DYLG ZDV ZHDULQJ ZKHQ KH ZDV SURSHOOHG LQWR LQLWLDO VWDUGRP RQ 7RS RI WKH 3RSV 'DYLG ZRUH WKH VDPH RXW¿W LQ D VHVVLRQ ZLWK 'DYLG %DLOH\ ZKR , GRQ¶W WKLQN KH JRW RQ ZLWK DV ZHOO DV KH GLG ZLWK 'X̆\ , JXHVV VRPHWKLQJ JHOOHG ZLWK 'DYLG DQG 'X̆\ RQ WKDW ¿UVW VHVVLRQ DQG WKH\ VDZ VRPHWKLQJ LQ HDFK RWKHU 7RQ\ KDG D PDVWHU SODQ ZLWK 'DYLG IRU ZRUOG GRPLQDWLRQ DQG WKLV ZDV WKH ¿UVW ODXQFKSDG IRU WKDW ´ - 59 -

ALADDIN SANE: JANUARY 1973

“As Tony’s plan for world domination started WR GHYHORS KH EURXJKW 'X̆\ LQ IRU $ODGGLQ Sane – which was a really conceptual idea. At WKDW SRLQW 'X̆\ KDG VWDUWHG KLV RZQ FRPSDQ\ FDOOHG 'X̆\ 'HVLJQ &RQFHSWV ,QVWHDG RI MXVW taking the pictures and giving them to the record company, he wanted to be involved in the design and the layout and the concept, and he created this company to facilitate that. ,W ZDV SHUIHFW WLPLQJ WKLV VKRRW ZDV RQH RI WKHLU ÂżUVW PDMRU MREV ,W KDV EHFRPH D FXOWXUDO icon, and if you had one picture to describe Bowie with, it would have to be the Aladdin Sane picture – everyone in the world knows that picture. That tied in with the beginning of David being a superstar. Tony’s plan to take him to the USA and create this aura around him started to work, which was a very clever idea. David was becoming a superstar. You have to look at the timing of these things; LW ZDV SUH SXQN LW ZDV TXLWH UHYROXWLRQDU\ and ahead of the curve. And of course lots of people have emulated it now, but in those days LW ZDV YHU\ GL̆HUHQW 'X̆\ ZDV PRUH WKDQ D photographer, he was an intellect, he was very well versed in art, the history of art, music, food and everything. And David is a magpie; he takes from here and there and creates his own thing. And there are similarities in their WKLQNLQJ DQG WKH\ ERXQFHG R̆ HDFK RWKHU , GRQÂśW WKLQN 'DYLG HYHU GLUHFWHG 'X̆\ , WKLQN WKDW LI 'DYLG WKUHZ RXW DQ LGHD 'X̆\ ZRXOG WDNH LW DQG FUHDWH D FRQFHSW DURXQG LW ,W ZDV a chemistry that worked very well between them, and on Aladdin Sane it was David’s idea WR XVH D OLJKWQLQJ Ă€DVK ZKLFK ZDV DQ LGHD KHÂśG OLIWHG IURP (OYLV Âą ZKR XVHG WKH Ă€DVK RQ KLV MHW DOO KLV ERG\JXDUGV KDG FORWKHV ZLWK WKH Ă€DVK DQG KLV SKUDVH Âľ7&%Âś IRU Âľ7DNLQJ &DUH RI Business’; he even had a ring with it on and David was fascinated by that, and he threw WKDW LQWR WKH PL[ DQG VDLG Âľ, ZDQW D Ă€DVK OLNH WKDWÂś 'X̆\ HYROYHG WKH FRQFHSW :KHQ 'X̆\ asked what the album was going to be called, it was initially going to be called $ /DG ,QVDQH ZKLFK GRHVQÂśW PDNH D lot of sense – in a perfect anecdote that describes their chemistry, 'X̆\ FDPH XS ZLWK WKH LGHD RI calling it Aladdin Sane which works, and we accept it now. They worked together on that basis, with that chemistry.â€? - 60 -

THE THIN WHITE DUKE: JULY 1975 ³,Q ODWH 'DYLG KDG OHIW IRU $PHULFD DQG KH didn’t come back, his life was pretty much over WKHUH DQG KH JRW SXOOHG LQWR 1LF 5RHJœV ¿OP 7KH 0DQ :KR )HOO WR (DUWK 2QH RI 'X̆\œV clients was the Sunday Times, and he went RQ D ZHVW WR HDVW FRDVW WULS DFURVV WKH 86$ ZLWK D MRXUQDOLVW FDOOHG *HRUJH 3HUU\ DQG RQH RI WKH WKLQJV WKH\ FRYHUHG ZDV 1LFœV ¿OP ,W ZDV RQH RI WKH ¿UVW DQG RQO\ WLPHV D ¿OP KDG EHHQ PDGH LQ WKH 86 ZLWK DQ DOO (QJOLVK FUHZ 'X̆\ FRYHUHG WKDW IHDWXUH IRU WKH 6XQGD\ Times, but for part of it he talked David into going down to White Sands for a shoot there. The Sunday Times didn’t use the pictures, they ZHUH 'X̆\œV ZD\ RI JHWWLQJ 'DYLG DZD\ IURP WKH ¿OP VHW DQG GRLQJ KLV RZQ WKLQJ ZLWK KLP )RU PH WKH\œUH VRPH RI WKH PRVW LQWHUHVWLQJ SLFWXUHV EHFDXVH , NQRZ WKH ULVNV WKDW 'X̆\ WRRN ,W ZDV SUDFWLFDOO\ VXQVHW 'X̆\ KDG very little time, no assistant and a rig with a PXOWLSOH ÀDVK V\VWHP )URP D WHFKQLFDO SRLQW of view, in those days, he was taking a lot of risks – multiple exposures without seeing a Polaroid, in the middle of nowhere. He had one bite at the cherry because the next day, David DQG WKH ¿OP ZRXOG KDYH PRYHG RQ 7KDWœV NLQG of the guy he was, he always took massive risks – but where there’s great risks, there’s great art. Next year is actually the 40th anniversary of that shoot.� - 61 -

LODGER: FEBRUARY 1979 FDPH IURP 3RODQVNL¶V 7KH 7HQDQW ZLWK WKH JX\ IDOOLQJ RXW RI WKH ZLQGRZ 'DYLG KDG DQ LGHD KH¶G WDNHQ VRPH UHIHUHQFHV IURP (JRQ 6FKLHOH SDLQWLQJV DQG KH QHHGHG VRPHRQH WR H[HFXWH WKDW ± KH QHHGHG VRPHRQH WKDW KH FRXOG WKURZ LGHDV DW ZKR ZRXOG EH DEOH WR H[HFXWH ZKDW ZDV JRLQJ RQ LQ KLV KHDG 2I FRXUVH 'X̆\ EHLQJ WKH XOWLPDWH WHFKQLFLDQ NQHZ H[DFWO\ KRZ WR IDFLOLWDWH LW +H KDG D ULJ EXLOW WKDW ZRXOG OLIW 'DYLG R̆ WKH JURXQG DQG PDNH KLP ORRN OLNH KH ZDV IDOOLQJ 7KH VKRRW LV DOO YHU\ FRQWUDGLFWRU\ LQ VRPH ZD\V \RX¶YH JRW D YHU\ VWUDLJKW WKLQJ LQ WKH VXLW KH¶V ZHDULQJ EXW LW¶V DOO GLVKHYHOOHG DQG VFUHZHG XS ,Q D ZD\ WKDW UHÀHFWV ZKDW ZDV JRLQJ RQ LQ 'DYLG¶V SDUDOOHO OLIH ´

All images except The Aladdin Sane imagery are credited to Photo Duffy©Duffy Archive; Aladdin Sane credited to Photo Duffy©Duffy Archive & The David Bowie Archive

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SCARY MONSTERS: 1980 ³6FDU\ 0RQVWHUV GLG HQG XS EHLQJ TXLWH FRQWURYHUVLDO EHFDXVH 'X̆\ LQWURGXFHG 'DYLG WR DQ DUWLVW FDOOHG (GZDUG %HOO ZKR ZDV TXLWH XS DQG FRPLQJ DW WKDW WLPH 'DYLG ZHQW DORQJ WR RQH RI (GZDUG¶V VKRZV DW D ODWHU GDWH DQG LQWURGXFHG KLPVHOI DQG VDLG KH ZDQWHG KLP WR GR RQH RI KLV DOEXP FRYHUV DQG 'DYLG SOD\HG D NLQG RI GRXEOH JDPH KHUH EHFDXVH KH ZDQWHG 'X̆\ WR GR WKH SLFWXUHV DQG KH DOZD\V ZDQWHG (GZDUG %HOO WR GR D SDLQWLQJ 'X̆\ WKRXJKW WKDW (GZDUG ZDV JRLQJ WR VRUW RI FRORXU LQ RQH RI KLV SLFWXUHV DQG (GZDUG WKRXJKW KH ZDV JRLQJ WR GR D SDLQWLQJ EDVHG RQ RQH RI 'X̆\¶V SLFWXUHV ,Q WKH HQG 'DYLG FKRVH WKH SDLQWLQJ EXW LI \RX ORRN DW WKH DOEXP WKH EDFN RI WKH FRYHU IHDWXUHV WKH SKRWRJUDSK ,W ZDV D ELW FRQWURYHUVLDO EXW ZKDW¶V LQWHUHVWLQJ DERXW WKDW LV WKDW PDQ\ RI WKH SLFWXUHV ZHUH QHYHU VHHQ 6R QRZ DV ZH UHOHDVH PRUH RI WKH LPDJHV WKH\ VHHP PRUH LQWHUHVWLQJ ZLWK WLPH $V DOZD\V ZLWK D 'X̆\ VKRRW WKHUH¶V DQ HOHPHQW RI FRQWURYHUV\ 1HYHU D GXOO PRPHQW , ZDV 'X̆\¶V DVVLVWDQW IURP ¶ WR ¶ DQG E\ 'X̆\ ZDV PRYLQJ DZD\ IURP SULQW DQG LQWR ¿OP DQG , WKLQN WKH 6FDU\ 0RQVWHUV VHVVLRQ ZDV RQH RI KLV ODVW ± 'DYLG SHUVXDGHG KLP WR SLFN XS WKH FDPHUD DJDLQ $W WKDW SRLQW , KDG VWDUWHG P\ RZQ FDUHHU DQG ZDV VKRRWLQJ P\ FRQWHPSRUDULHV OLNH $GDP $QW 8OWUDYR[ 6SDQGDX %DOOHW 'X̆\ KDG FORVHG GRZQ KLV VWXGLR DW WKDW SRLQW DQG SKRQHG PH XS DQG DVNHG LI KH FRXOG XVH PLQH VR , VDLG VXUH ± DQG , ZHQW EDFN DQG DVVLVWHG KLP RQ WKLV VKRRW (GZDUG %HOO ZDV WKHUH GRLQJ KLV SLFWXUHV 'X̆\ ZDV GRLQJ KLV DQG , ZDV VKRRWLQJ P\ RZQ WRR 6RPHRQH RI 'DYLG¶V VWDWXUH LV ZHOO DZDUH RI ZKHQ WR WXUQ LW RQ DQG ZKHQ WR WXUQ LW R̆ ± KH¶V D SHUIRUPHU :KHWKHU KH¶V EHLQJ SKRWRJUDSKHG RU RQ VWDJH KH NQRZV H[DFWO\ KRZ WR SURMHFW KLPVHOI +H¶V QRW WKH NLQG RI SHUVRQ WR JHW WKHUH DQG VD\ µ:KDW DP , JRQQD GR QRZ"¶´ 'X̆\ %RZLH )LYH 6HVVLRQV LV DYDLODEOH WR EX\ WKURXJK $&& 3XEOLVKLQJ QRZ - 63 -

MOTORING Words: RICHARD JENKINS

Suitable

ARMOUR What to look for in a car when protection is as important as looks

BMW Experimenting in armoured vehicles for over 30 years, BMW’s knowledge of vehicular safety is matched only by its luxury expertise. Each BMW Security Vehicle is custom-built to the highest standards of ballistic SURWHFWLRQ DQG R̆HUV SHUKDSV the most customisation options of any luxury brand for that reason – it considers the driver in every decision made, with three safety category levels according to the owner’s requirements. The three levels are: street crime (attacks with blunt objects and handguns); organised crime (attacks from DXWRPDWLF ZHDSRQV DQG ¿QDOO\ attacks with explosive or armourpiercing weapons. Models that can be protected include the X5 and the 7 Series.

Style

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**** Security ****

Dartz Motorz Dartz Motorz is a Latvian brand that specialises in over-the-top customisation. New issues are coming soon, but the current model, the Prombron, comes in nine iterations that have names like the Black Dragon, the White Horse and the Iron Diamond. The ultra-luxury SUV is available in two shapes – Saloon (sedan) or Pullman (wagon) – and a plethora

Style

of armouring levels, from B2 to B7 – which can withstand land mines and rocket-propelled grenade attacks. Since 2012, all Dartz cars have had engines based on the Mercedes GL 63AMG V8, and from 2015 there will also be the option of a fearsome V12. This makes the Dartz vehicles among the most powerful and the most secure that money can buy.

** Security *****

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MOTORING

Land Rover Land Rover is already a vehicle famed for rugged reliability, but the Land Rover Armoured allows a little more peace RI PLQG ZLWKRXW VDFUL¿FLQJ DQ\ RI WKH luxury synonymous with the brand. Each armoured Discovery vehicle comes with ballistic protection and blast resistance, and the standard armoured pack includes a

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supplementary electric supply, self-sealing fuel tank and anti-tamper exhaust, while optional extras include lights and a siren, an underERQQHW ¿UH VXSSUHVVDQW DQG ÀDJSROH PRXQW Under the bonnet, the advanced 5 litre V8 engine has uprated suspension and braking systems so performance is not hindered by the extra weight of the armour.

*** Security ***

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Mercedes The German marque’s E-Guard models are fully equipped to deal with any threat. An optional upgrade on the E-class models, the vehicles are generally built on the usual SURGXFWLRQ OLQH WR HQVXUH WKH KLJK ¿QLVK you would expect from a Mercedes. The protection elements are then added by hand – armouring made of the latest glass/plastic

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and steel composites is subtly inserted, and Mercedes takes care to make sure there are no weak spots, for example the transition area between door, body and bulletproof glass. 7KH ÀRRU RI WKH FDU FDQ HYHQ EH PRGL¿HG WR withstand explosions, and the tyres are able to perform at speeds of up to 80km/h, even when GHÀDWHG

***** Security ***

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GASTRONOMY

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Poetryin Sublimotion What surprises await in ‘the world’s most expensive restaurant’?

Words: RICHARD JENKINS - 69 -

GASTRONOMY

T

here are more high-net-worth individuals in the world than ever before. In the last year alone, the amount of worldwide HNWIs rose by 13.8 per cent to record amounts. So in a world where more people WKDQ HYHU FDQ D̆RUG WR VSHQG ELJ on meals, the quality of food has to peak at a certain level – and after that, where do you go? Double Michelin-starred chef Paco Roncero, quickly gaining a reputation as the Spanish Heston Blumenthal, believes that WKH GL̆HUHQFH OLHV LQ WKH GLQLQJ experience. His latest restaurant is Sublimotion, newly opened for the summer season in Ibiza’s Hard Rock Hotel. The Balearic island may have

This sets the stage for the night ahead. Each of the 20 courses on R̆HU LV DXJPHQWHG E\ DQ DVVDXOW RQ the senses. The walls of the dining space and even the table itself are lit up with a series of ever-changing projections, ranging from the frozen arctic (where the temperature drops to shiver-inducing levels) to New York’s Central Park. Each 3D display is matched to its corresponding course. The table transforms into a DJ booth, as a macaroon appears WR Ă€RDW DWRS D VSLQQLQJ &' 'XULQJ the baroque Versailles course, an elegant rose will appear and melt in the diners’ mouths. Roncero says: “Our main goal is to make customers happy and we use all our weapons. 7KLV LQFOXGHV VWLPXODWLQJ WKH ÂżYH senses. Another chef could have created another experience, but not

‘Each course is augmented by an assault on the senses’ a reputation for attracting teenage clubbers, but Sublimotion’s packed booking list suggests that there is no shortage of diners willing to splash out â‚Ź1,500 for the chance to sample his unique experience. The price per diner may be the headline grabber, but Roncero is more interested in the process. “I really do not know if it’s the world’s most expensive restaurant,â€? he tells AIR. “What is true is that it is not only a restaurant, but we also R̆HU D WUXH FXOLQDU\ VKRZ $ QLJKW DW 6XEOLPRWLRQ LV YHU\ GL̇FXOW WR explain. It is something to feel in your own skin.â€? 7KH GLQHUÂśV ÂżUVW H[SHULHQFH RI WKH restaurant comes as all 12 customers are ushered into a pitch black goods lift, the only light coming from a mysterious glowing white button. Out of the darkness, a Spanish voice instructs the nearest person to push it. Once the button is depressed, the elevator plunges deep into the earth and the temperature drops – or at least, that’s the impression. In fact, you haven’t moved at all and the entire process was an illusion.

this one. This project is the result of a personal dream.â€? 6XEOLPRWLRQ LV QRW D Ă€DVK LQ the-pan gimmick restaurant. In fact, it’s the fruit of four years of labour and research. The chef describes the process by saying: “Sublimotion is the evolution of Paco Roncero Workshop, which opened in June 2012, and we have been working hard on the project since 2010. Behind it there is a great WHDP RI YHU\ GL̆HUHQW SHRSOH ZLWK

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DQWLSDWKHWLF SURÂżOHV ZKHUH HDFK RQH makes its contribution. That is what has made this dream possible.â€? Roncero and his team aim to manipulate diners’ very emotions and feelings, with a time for KXPRXU UHĂ€HFWLRQ QRVWDOJLD DQG even fear. Roncero says: “A magical atmosphere has been created. It is essential to be predisposed to feel excited, laugh, dine on the most unusual and delicious dishes... forget everything that is happening outside and let go. In short, enjoy. Sublimotion will do the rest. I do not know if it is the most interesting restaurant in the world, but certainly it is unique.â€? Indeed, it takes a team of 20 people all working daily to create the show, with just 12 diners taking part in each performance. Undoubtedly, however, Roncero is the star. His relentlessly inventive menu takes the recipient on a joyous journey from a clam dish eaten ‘underwater’ to nitrogen-frozen olive oil parcels. In fact, Roncero claims that olive oil is his secret weapon. “The extra virgin olive oil is my fetish product,â€? he admits. “We have done many studies around it where we found the amount of possibilities of using it as the main element of the dish, not as a garnish.â€? If a chef can perform such wizardry using mere olive oil, â‚Ź1,500 WR ÂżQG RXW ZKDW KH FDQ GR ZLWK WKH rest of the world’s ingredients seems like a bargain.

The world’s MOST EXPENSIVE desserts Sublimotion’s set menu might be the world’s priciest, but these individual after-dinner treats would add up to a tasty bill.

Bangkok’s Sirocco offers the Oak dessert, which comes in three courses, each paired with a rare wine or cognac. The cost? US$915. Serendipity 3 in New York is the home of the Golden Opulence Sundae, laced with 23-carat gold leaf and costing US$1,100. Dubai can’t be left out of the list – The Golden Phoenix cupcake from Bloomsbury’s Café in The Dubai Mall prices up at US$1,110.

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TRAVEL 21ST CENTURY STALKING Tweed-clad hunters have been taking to the misty moors of the Highlands in pursuit of red stag since the 19th FHQWXU\ %HVSRNH OX[XU\ WUDYHO ¿UP Loyd & Townsend Rose combines the traditional sport with a stay at Corrour Lodge, undoubtedly the country’s most contemporary ‘castle’. The light and airy lodge at the heart of the 60,000-acre familyowned estate near Fort William has wonderful views over Loch Ossian and is surrounded by mountains. Wildlife is in abundance, including red and roe deer, golden eagles and peregrine falcons, and there is excellent stalking on the estate, thanks to the Deer Management Programme. The lodge itself sleeps 30, with spacious living areas, formal dining room, cosy library and sauna. Whether you arrive from Inverness airport by helicopter or by seaplane, one thing is guaranteed: you won’t want to leave. ltr.co.uk

FIELD DAY As the grouse shooting season kicks off in the UK, AIR curates four of the most exclusive field sport experiences

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CASTLE & CLAYS If you prefer your shooting featherfree, the Royal Berkshire Shooting School can organise simulated shooting for up to 16 guns on some of (QJODQGÂśV ÂżQHVW FRXQWU\ HVWDWHV 2XU favourite has to be Highclere Castle near Newbury in Berkshire, home of the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon DQG EHWWHU NQRZQ DV WKH ÂżFWLRQDO Downton Abbey. Choose from a selection of handmade shotguns from master makers such as John Rigby & Co and Purdey, and then WHVW \RXU VNLOOV GXULQJ ÂżYH GULYHV with clay pigeons as the quarry. From the convoy of Range Rovers to traditional ‘elevenses’ (morning WHD LQ WKH ÂżHOG WKH H[SHULHQFH replicates every element of a real day’s game shooting. After the last drive, your party can decamp to the private dining room at Marco Pierre White’s excellent Carnarvon Arms restaurant, the castle’s former coach house. rbss.co.uk - 73 -

TRAVEL

FISHING BY FLOATPLANE Anglers looking to access some of 6FRWODQGÂśV EHVW ÂżVKLQJ VSRWV FDQ GR it in style, with a tailor-made tour of remote hill lochs and coastal rivers by amphibious aircraft. Sporting agent Charles Brownlow can put together a two- to-three GD\ LWLQHUDU\ Ă€\LQJ XS WKH ZHVW coast to private estates, enjoying breathtaking aerial views of the mountain ranges, ancient forests and river systems below. After touching down on a mirror-still loch or pristine river, you can then spend WKH GD\ Ă€\ ÂżVKLQJ IRU VDOPRQ WURXW and sea trout, stopping only for a sumptuous lunch accompanied by your very own bagpiper. Bed down in an historic country house or castle, where a top-class chef will prepare your catch of the day while you swap tales of ‘the one that got away’ with the lord of manor himself. charlesbrownlow.com - 74 -

THE GAME TRAIN For an intimate shooting trip with D GL̆HUHQFH WUDYHO WKURXJK WKH spectacular Scottish Highlands aboard The Royal Scotsman, sister train to the famous Orient-Express. Sporting agent Charles Brownlow can arrange a private charter for eight guns and their partners, visiting some of Scotland’s most exclusive estates. A tailor-made itinerary may include two nights at Gleneagles Hotel with plenty of time to practise at the hotel’s world-class shooting school, before boarding the ‘country house on wheels’ for six nights. Guns can partake in daily partridge, pheasant and grouse shoots, while non-shooters can tour historic castles and haunting glens DQG VKRS IRU ÂżQH FDVKPHUH DQG tweed. Enjoy gourmet lunches at centuries-old castles and black-tie dinners in the mahogany-panelled dining car. With everything from helicopter transfers to custom-made shooting attire taken care of, it promises to be a truly unforgettable experience. charlesbrownlow.com

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LIFE LESSONS My mentors have always been an inspiration to me: Mike Gould, Lester Gribetz, Eugenia Ulasewicz, each has given me a stronger sense of imagination and potential. Mentoring in itself is such a gift that it inspired me to take on this role with others. A person is successful if they are curious, results oriented, committed to personal development, team oriented and have a sense of humility. A quality that I admire in others, which some say that I possess myself, is intellectual curiosity, the determination to understand why and how things happen.

WHAT I KNOW NOW

Time is a precious commodity and one of the biggest challenges I faced taking on the role of CEO of Bloomingdale’s was being able to spend the right time on our strategy, with our people, and understanding the business. This is a retail landscape that is changing rapidly. It’s exciting! While you face new challenges every day, the opportunity to touch and engage the customer has never been greater.

Tony Spring,

CEO of Bloomingdale’s

Retail is a business, but it all starts ZLWK SXWWLQJ WKH FXVWRPHU ¿UVW It’s important to keep the in-store shopping experience special, to always excite the customer, and position Bloomingdale’s as the ultimate destination for our local customers and international visitors. What next for Bloomingdale’s? Our new store in Hawaii (2015), continuing to reimagine our 59th St. Flagship, and more excitement. 100% Bloomingdale’s is one example of how we’re trying to create more exclusivity in our assortments.

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Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.

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