AIR Gama Aviation Nov'14

OUR SIGNATURE COLLECTION. QUATTROPORTE

BY MASERATI.

ALL-NEW QUATTROPORTE | QUATTROPORTE S | QUATTROPORTE GTS

TO MASTER AN ART WITH PASSION, INSPIRATION AND IMAGINATION, THIS IS MASERATI. EVER SINCE ITS FIRST INCARNATION, MASERATI’S FLAGSHIP RANGE REMAINS UNRIVALLED. QUATTROPORTE 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 330 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 500 NM - TOP SPEED: 263 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.6 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE S 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 410 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 550 NM - TOP SPEED: 285 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.1 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE GTS 3798 CC V8 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 530 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 650 NM - TOP SPEED: 307 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 4.7 SECONDS.

Q U A T T R O P O R T E

Bahrain, Euro Motors W.L.L.: 17 750750 Kuwait, Al Zayani Trading Co.: 1808010 Ext. 111 KSA Jeddah, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 02 6835148 KSA Riyadh, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 01 4664748 Lebanon, G.A. Bazerji & Sons LLC.: 01 263111 Oman, Alfardan Motors LLC.: 024 523014 Qatar, Alfardan Sports Motors Co. S.O.C.: 044 208788 UAE Abu Dhabi, Premier Motors: 02 4935000 UAE Dubai, Al Tayer Motors LLC.: 04 3037878 www.maserati.com

Dubai Mall | Dubai Marina Mall | Mall of the Emirates | Wafi | Gold Souk

CONTENTS / FEATURES

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Business Development Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com Senior Designer Adam Sneade Designer Andy Knappett Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud

Sixty Three

Seventy Six

Two’s a Crowd

Adventures in fashion

Twenty years after Ayrton Senna’s tragic death, AIR examines his great rivalry with Alain Prost.

As Louis Vuitton concludes its 160th year, a new book takes design lovers on a journey to remember.

Seventy

Eighty

Bond Girl to Gone Girl

The Oz Odyssey

With her Hollywood status set to soar, Rosamund Pike sets the record straight.

Production Manager Chalitha Fernando Senior Business Development Manager Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com - 13 -

As The Wizard of Oz turns 75, AIR explores why the making of the movie was stormier than Kansas.

Š Sandro Miller courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago

CONTENTS / REGUL ARS Twenty Two

Sixty

Radar

Interiors

From private jet to SDUDGLVH LQ ¿YH PLQXWHV ÀDW LQ WKH 0DOGLYHV

AIR curates the standout pieces from Italy’s notable design houses.

Thirty Two

Eighty Eight

Art & Design

Motoring

John Malkovich as you’ve never seen him before, and iconic Grand Prix photos.

$V WKH HUD GHÂżQLQJ McLaren F1 turns 21, AIR looks at its legacy.

Fifty One

Ninety Two

Timepieces

Gastronomy

Hublot celebrates the Big Bang, plus exclusive pieces for the Middle East.

Zuma founder Rainer Becker shares his Japanese cooking philosophies.

Fifty Six

Ninety Six

Jewellery

Travel

David Morris’s romantic rose-cut, and Chanel’s new celestial-inspired jewels.

With all eyes on Abu Dhabi WKLV PRQWK $,5 ÂżQGV WKH best luxury experiences.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

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For those who know.

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GAMA AVIATION

November 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

I’m delighted to welcome you to the November HGLWLRQ RI $,5 *DPDœV LQ ÀLJKW PDJD]LQH I hope you’ll enjoy learning more about our global business aviation group and the services we provide as you browse through the pages.

Gama is one of the world’s largest business jet operators – we have nearly 80 business jets operating all around the globe. Established in the United Kingdom in 1983, we’ve grown to have bases throughout the Middle East, Europe and North and South America, as well as operating licences issued by the UAE, UK, US and Bermudan Authorities.

In addition to providing aircraft management and charter services, the group also provides aircraft maintenance, avionics design and installation, aviation software, aircraft cleaning, and leasing services to a wide range of clients.

Gama’s expansion in the Middle East continues to progress well; our regional ÀHHW KDV JURZQ VLJQL¿FDQWO\ RYHU WKH SDVW 12 months with the arrival of a number of aircraft, along with the continued development of our regional footprint and services. This LQFOXGHV WKH RSHQLQJ RI RXU -HGGDK RI¿FH DQG Abu Dhabi base. Also, Gama is now operating the only business aviation FBO at Sharjah International Airport, which is proving to be a very popular facility for Sharjah and the Northern Emirates, as well as a practical alternative to Dubai International Airport.

Business aviation remains one of the best tools available to corporations and individuals who want to make time for themselves and it’s been pleasing to see a continued resurgence LQ FKDUWHU ÀLJKWV ¹ WKH ZRUOG LV WUDYHOOLQJ IRU business again and developing much needed revenue for the global economy.

Thank you for choosing Gama – welcome onboard.

Richard Lineveldt General Manager Gama Aviation

Contact details: charter.mena@gamaaviation.com gamaaviation.com - 17 -

GAMA AVIATION NEWS

TEAM USA WIN THE SIMPSON CUP 2014

Gama adds the King to its fleet Gama Aviation has expanded its charter ÀHHW RIIHULQJ ZLWK WKH DGGLWLRQ RI D PXOWL role Beechcraft King Air 350C. The King Air 350C is being offered

by Gama Aviation for both utility and corporate use. It will be available in RQH RI IRXU RSWLRQDO FRQÂżJXUDWLRQV Executive, Commuter, Cargo and Medevac.

The latest addition to the Gama $YLDWLRQ ÀHHW ZLOO EH EDVHG DW WKH company’s landmark Glasgow Airport facility, which formally opened in November 2013. The aircraft is also expected to run regular charters to Europe out of Gama Aviation’s Farnborough Airport HQ. Paul Cremer, Commercial Manager for Gama Aviation VD\V ³:H KDYH UHFHLYHG FRQVLGHUDEOH interest for the aircraft in its cargo FRQ¿JXUDWLRQ DV FXUUHQWO\ WKHUH LV UHVWULFWHG DFFHVV WR DLUFUDIW RI WKLV VL]H IRU FDUJR DQG IUHLJKW PLVVLRQV :H H[SHFW LW to be very popular with existing clients, as well as encouraging a new client base to work with us.� Owing to its intelligent GHVLJQ D PHGHYDF FRQ¿JXUDWLRQ LV DOVR quickly achievable and can be ready ZLWKLQ D VKRUW WLPH RI D UHTXHVW ³7KH double Lifeport facility in the Medevac FRQ¿JXUDWLRQ SURYLGHV \HW DQRWKHU RSWLRQ IRU WKLV ÀH[LEOH SODWIRUP ´ &UHPHU DGGV In its Executive and Commuter formats, Cremer anticipates the aircraft will be in high demand from travellers seeking

easy access to the more remote parts of Scotland, for example, for either business RU SOHDVXUH :LWK D UDQJH RI XS WR QP LW DOVR SURYLGHV D FRVW HIÂżFLHQW transport mode for European charters only requiring a 1,000-metre runway.

7KH DLUFUDIW MRLQV D YDULHG 8. ÀHHW ZKLFK include types such as the Challenger 604, Learjet 45, a Gulfstream G550, and a +DZNHU &UHPHU DGGV ³2XU PL[HG ÀHHW PHDQV ZH FDQ IXO¿OO D YDULHW\ RI clients’ mission requests. However, the addition of such a versatile aircraft brings an extra dimension to our offering and with the multi-use options we expect it to be popular across a number of sectors.�

Gama Aviation already operates King Air aircraft on behalf of the Scottish Ambulance Service and this latest addition can also serve as an ad-hoc additional aircraft to support this or other emergency requirements.

As a Beechcraft Authorised Service Centre providing maintenance for King $LU %DURQ DQG %RQDQ]D DLUFUDIW *DPD $YLDWLRQ ZLOO EHQHÂżW IURP EHLQJ DEOH WR maintain its own aircraft through its engineering and maintenance division.

Paul Bristow, Engineering Director for *DPD $YLDWLRQ DGGV ³:H KDYH EHHQ involved with the King Air range of aircraft over the last 30 years, so it is ¿WWLQJ WKDW ZH QRZ KDYH WKLV DLUFUDIW LQ RXU ÀHHW :H DUH DOO ORRNLQJ IRUZDUG WR the potential this aircraft brings.�

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In October, Gama Aviation supported the Simpson Cup as a new sponsor of The Ryder Cup-style golf tournament. Teams of injured servicemen representing the UK and the USA competed for the SUL]H ,W ZDV WKH ¿UVW WLPH an aviation company has supported the event. In one RI WKH EHVW JRO¿QJ HYHQWV we have ever witnessed, USA defeated GB 10.5 – 7.5 in the 2014 Simpson Cup at Congressional Country &OXE :DVKLQJWRQ '& Day One: 3.5 - 2.5 Six fourball games were played over the golf course with the USA gaining a narrow lead 3.5 - 2.5 after the completion of the matches, three of which were decided on the treacherous par 3 18th hole.

Day Two: 6LQJOHV 12 singles matches were fought out over the USA Open venue, blue course with the USA winning the singles confrontation 7 - 5 with again many of the matches being fought until the 18th.

Final Match Score: Team USA won 10.5 -7.5 IRU WKHLU ÂżUVW YLFWRU\ LQ the third Simpson Cup HQFRXQWHU :H DUH DOUHDG\ looking forward to the next one at Royal St.Georges, Sandwich, Kent, UK in 2015.

WITH US TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE From the moment you touch down at Gama’s Sharjah FBO you’ll know that time is working for you. On average, six minutes after you land you’ll be in your car and on your way. Only 10 minutes from Sharjah itself and a mere 20 minutes (or less*) from Dubai means you’ll be productive before others will have even picked up their bags.

Gama Aviation is the exclusive FBO provider at Sharjah, call us for all passenger services and aircraft handling on +971 6557 0177, email fbo.shj@gamaaviation.com or visit www.gamaaviation.com for more information *Helicopter transfers

available

• Aircraft & passenger arrival and departure services • Customs & Immigration preclearance services • Private Majlis and First Class lounges • Chauffeur and crew transport options available • Flight Planning Services • Hangar, Fuelling, Aircraft Parking & Maintenance services • Hotels at preferential rates • Car ramp access

- 19 -

GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation opens private aviation terminal at Sharjah International Airport

G

ama Aviation has opened its exclusive executive terminal (FBO) at Sharjah International Airport, creating a full service private aviation hub serving Sharjah, Dubai and the Northern Emirates. The facility at Sharjah International Airport is already performing above its target for weekly movements as operators and owners seek to cut the transit time of principles and crew to the Northern Emirates.

The new lounge facility complements Gama Aviation’s dedicated hangars, maintenance facilities and fuel services in Sharjah. Further development is to commence shortly with the construction of a new hangar which will incorporate an expanded

maintenance facility, as well as a much needed increase in aircraft storage capacity.

Although last month marked the ceremonial opening of the facility, the lounge has been fully operational since mid-June. Feedback from principles, their HQWRXUDJHV DQG ÀLJKW FUHZ KDV EHHQ ³LQFUHGLEOH´ according to Richard Lineveldt, General Manager at *DPD $YLDWLRQ 0(1$ +H VDLG ³:H KDYH D ZRUOG FODVV product, with a great strategic location. Downtown 'XEDL LV D PHUH PLQXWHV DZD\ :H KDYH IHZ VORW or airways restrictions, facilitated by our strong relationship with Sharjah Aviation Authority and Sharjah Department of Civil Aviation. This translates LQWR WDQJLEOH FOLHQW EHQH¿WV SDUWLFXODUO\ VSHHG DQG privacy, that few others can match.�

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DO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER?

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RADAR

Winter

SUN

The only private airport in the Maldives can be found here: at Shangri-La Villingili Resort & Spa. It’s time to land your plane...

From private jet to paradise island in five minutes flat?

The improbable becomes possible at Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa in the Maldives. Tucked away in the Addu Atoll – think turquoise lagoons, sapphire skies and whitesand beaches – Villingili is the only five-star resort with its own executive airport, so you can bypass Malé and arrive and depart in effortless style from Gan Executive Airport, mere minutes by private boat transfer to Villingili Island.

Shangri-La guests have access to an exclusive VIP lounge for hassle-free entry and exit, and the airport prides itself on its seamless service and first-class facilities, from on-site immigration and speedy baggage screening to ground support equipment and cabin cleaning. The ShangriLa chefs can even prepare exquisite tailor-made cuisine for the flight back home so you can savour the taste of paradise just a little bit longer.

The resort itself boasts luxurious accommodation, including overwater villas, tropical treehouses and two presidential villas, along with a nine-hole golf course, fabulous CHI spa, 21-metre private yacht and memorable dining experiences in the island’s most secret locations.

What’s more, it’s available to hire in its entirety this winter.

For more information on Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa’s private airport, visit www.shangri-la.com/male/villingiliresort - 22 -

- 23 -

OPTIMIZED UNRIVALED Aviation experts claim you can’t have it all. Don’t believe it. The optimized design of the all-new Gulfstream G500™ and G600™ shifts the aeronautical paradigm. Fly farther faster without sacrificing cabin comfort, fuel efficiency or field performance. With the G500 and G600, the future of business aviation is boundless.

ALLAN STANTON | +971 50 653 5258 | allan.stanton@gulfstream.com | GULFSTREAM.COM *Maximum ranges shown are based on NBAA IFR theoretical range with eight passengers and typical crew. Actual range will be affected by ATC routing, operating speed, weather, outfitting options and other factors. All performance is based on preliminary data and subject to change.

CRITIQUE

Film The Imitation Game Dir: Morten Tyldum The story of English mathematician, Alan Turing, who helps crack the Enigma code during WWII. AT BEST: “Benedict Cumberbatch is odds-on to be nominated for an Oscar (at the very least) for his brilliant WXUQ ´ Independent AT WORST: “[The script is] too IRUPXODLF WRR ḢFLHQW DW VLPSO\ whisking you through´ The Guardian

Nightcrawler Dir: Dan Gilroy A young man stumbles upon the underground world of LA freelance crime journalism.

AT BEST: “A deliciously dark, cynical and riveting examination of struggle DQG VX̆HULQJ JRQH DZU\ ´ The Playlist AT WORST: Âł7KH ÂżOPÂśV FRQVWDQW VKLIWV of tone can grow tiring, even if the DFWLRQ DV D ZKROH QHYHU JHWV ERULQJ ´ Hollywood Reporter

Wild Dir: Jean-Marc VallĂŠe After a series of traumatic events, a young woman sets out on a 1,100-mile solo hike that maddens, strengthens, and ultimately heals her.

AT BEST: “Reese Witherspoon delivers her best performance since she won WKH %HVW $FWUHVV 2VFDU D GHFDGH DJR ´ New York Post AT WORST: “Wild never really earns its hard-fought struggle for redemption DQG SHUVRQDO UHLQYHQWLRQ ´ The Playlist

The Theory of Everything Dir: James Marsh A look at the 25-year relationship of astrophysicist Stephen Hawking and his wife, Jane Wilde.

AT BEST: “A solid, duly moving account of their complicated relationship... made with impeccable professional SROLVK ´ Hollywood Reporter AT WORST: Âł0DUVKÂśV ELRSLF VDOXWHV WKH IDPRXV SK\VLFLVWÂśV FRPPLWPHQW EXW falls short of exploring his brilliant LGHDV ´ indieWIRE - 25 -

CRITIQUE

Books The revolution, according to British celebrity and scourge of politicians Russell Brand, will not be televised.

Mainly because nobody can be ERWKHUHG %UDQGÂśV ERRN 5HYROXWLRQ LV D PDQLIHVWR IRU KRZ WR Âż[ WKH world and has been eagerly awaited since his passionate appearance RQ WKH %%&ÂśV SROLWLFV SURJUDPPH Newsnight last autumn, when he sparred with Jeremy Paxman to WHUULÂżF VSDUN\ H̆HFW +LV ERRN outlining his personal and political manifesto, however, has missed the window of opportunity he earned last autumn. David Runciman of The Guardian says: “A lot of the HQHUJ\ DURXQG %UDQGÂśV FDOO WR DUPV has dissipated. Last autumn was his moment, and by going away to write a big book he has squandered some of the opportunity. Something shorter and, above all, quicker would have served his purposes much EHWWHU ´ $QRWKHU SUREOHP LV WKH IDFW WKDW %UDQG GRHVQÂśW VHHP WR KDYH DQ\ politics of his own to replace the ones he dislikes. Runciman says: “He insists that transformative change is possible because he has achieved it in his own life. He also knows that change is a collective experience, because he only managed to achieve it with the support of fellow addicts

and friends. The book is peppered with references to the recovery process, beginning with the need to believe in a higher power. What %UDQG GRHVQÂśW GR LV H[SODLQ KRZ the personal translates into the political.“ )URP D ZDQQDEH SROLWLFLDQÂśV WRPH WR DQ DFWXDO SROLWLFLDQÂśV ZRUN LWÂśV QHYHU EHHQ DQ\ VHFUHW WKDW WKH Mayor of London, Boris Johnson, has always idolised Winston Churchill, and his admiration is wrapped in The Churchill Factor.

According to Chris Blackhurst of The ,QGHSHQGHQW Âł-RKQVRQÂśV GHFODUHG motivation is that Churchill is in danger of fading from the memory, worse, of slipping into caricature, and we will forget his towering JUHDWQHVV ´ 7KH 0D\RU ZRXOG EH WKH ÂżUVW WR DGPLW WKDW KLV ERRN ODFNV some of the detail found in more rigorously researched biographies of the former Prime Minister, as Blackhurst notes, saying: “At times, -RKQVRQÂśV HQWKXVLDVP IRU KLV VXEMHFW runs away in hyperbolic Boris style. &KXUFKLOOÂśV KRPH DW &KDUWZHOO apparently, is not just an English country house on the Kent Weald EXW ÂľRQH RI WKH ZRUOGÂśV ÂżUVW ZRUG processors. The whole house is a gigantic engine for the generation of WH[WÂś ´ 7KDW EHLQJ VDLG %ODFNKXUVW GRHV ÂżQG TXDOLWLHV LQ WKH ERRN - 26 -

“Where the book is at its strongest is ZKHQ -RKQVRQ H[SORUHV &KXUFKLOOÂśV FKDUDFWHU KLV WUDLWV DQG DĚˆLFWLRQV It is, as he says, about what makes a JUHDW OHDGHU ´ KH ZULWHV The political career of the third author featured this month stretches no further than mocking 6DUDK 3DOLQ RQ $PHULFDÂśV WHOHYLVLRQ staple, Saturday Night Live. Yes Please by Amy Poehler is a frank, funny and at times sad account of what life is like for a woman at the forefront of US comedy. Part memoir, part manifesto, the book has gathered widespread praise.

Kirkus reviews says: “This is not a treacly self-help book or spiritual guide but rather motivation from a hilarious and kindhearted FKDPSLRQ ´ 7KH *XDUGLDQ VLQJOHV RXW 3RHKOHUÂśV Âł$PHULFDÂśV 6ZHHWKHDUW´ personality as part of the reason IRU WKH ERRNÂśV VXFFHVV VD\LQJ “The really scandalous thing about 86 WHOHYLVLRQÂśV PRVW DSSHDOLQJ personality is her niceness. And if that implies sappiness, think again.

With a determination not dissimilar to that of the character she plays on her hit mockumentary, Parks and Recreation, Poehler is on a mission WR ERRVW DOO WKLQJV SHUN\ DQG ¿JKW EDFN DJDLQVW WKH FXOW RI FRRO ´

Discover an island embraced by

nature

Enjoy an exhilarating aerial view of the rugged beauty, bountiful free-roaming wildlife and stunning beaches of the island nature reserve of Sir Bani Yas Island, as you come in to land on the private airstrip. The short flight in your private jet to Sir Bani Yas Island airport, code OMBY, is just the first leg on a seamless journey to luxurious comfort and exciting adventure at Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara, Anantara Al Yamm Villa Resort or Anantara Al Sahel Villa Resort.

Embark on a journey rich with discovery at anantara.com Call +971 (0)2 656 1399 or email crome@anantara.com for enquiries and reservations.

United Arab Emirates • Cambodia • China • Indonesia • Maldives • Mozambique • Thailand • Vietnam

Rates start from AED 1,050* per night including breakfast *Rates are subject to 10% service charge and 6% tourism fee. Conditions apply. Rate quoted is for stays at Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara.

CRITIQUE

A new production of Sophocles’s tragedy Electra at The Old Vic in London is a “kill-for-a-ticket triumph”, according to the Telegraph’s Dominic Cavendish. Ian Rickson directs Frank McGuinness’s new adaptation of this classic tale of power and revenge, with Kristin Scott Thomas in the title role and music by PJ Harvey.

Electra, daughter of Agamemnon, is wracked by grief following the murder of her beloved father by her mother and stepfather. When her brother, Orestes, returns after a long absence, Electra – unwilling to forgive and consumed by a desire for revenge against his murderers – explodes without mercy, leading to a bloody conclusion. Scott Thomas’s “tour de force performance... rewrites our understanding of her capabilities”, says Cavendish. “Yet within 90 minutes or so, the erstwhile screen goddess propels herself into the ¿UVW UDQN RI WKHDWULFDO WLWDQV ´ 7KH *XDUGLDQ¶V 0LFKDHO Billington agrees that Scott Thomas “is always intensely watchable” and, while she does nothing wrong, she occasionally does a bit too much. “It’s a psychologically perceptive study of a spiritually wounded woman full of passionate intensity that lacks only the element of stillness,” he says. Until December 20.

Across the pond, Australian playwright Andrew Bovell’s acclaimed family saga, When the Rain Stops Falling, has made its LA premier at Santa Monica’s City Garage. The action spans 80 years from 1959 to 2039, and depicts four generations, beginning with a doomed marriage, in which the father leaves his London home and ends up disappearing one night from Ayers Rock in Australia. Years later, his son tries WR ¿QG RXW ZKDW KDSSHQHG ± DQG HQGV XS PHHWLQJ D beautiful girl in a roadhouse on the southern coast RI $XVWUDOLD ZKRVH IDPLO\ KDV VX̆HUHG HYHQ ZRUVH

WUDJHG\ 7KH ³KDQGVRPHO\ VWDJHG´ GUDPD EHQH¿WV IURP “underplayed, admirably uniform performances”, says Philip Brandes in the LA Times. While there’s no sugarcoating the relentlessly downbeat mood, the “black and red production design and rain-swept video projections create a stunning visual tableau” that takes some of the sting out. Stageraw’s Paul M. Rubenstein agrees that the technical achievements are strong, but feels the key revelation by one of the characters “is so FOLQLFDOO\ ± DOPRVW OLWLJLRXVO\ ± SUHVHQWHG WKDW LW ÀDWWHQV the delicate narrative that we had, up until then, been piecing together from hints in the dialogue.” The story never recovers its momentum and, in a two-hour play without an intermission, “that becomes deadly for the production”. Until November 23.

Decidedly more upbeat is the Broadway revival of Out on the Town, the 1944 musical that captures the joy and loneliness of sailors on shore leave, at the Lyric Theatre in Times Square. While two previous Broadway revivals, in 1971 and 1998, were short-lived, this jubilant revival IHHOV ³DV IUHVK DV ¿UVW VXQOLJKW´ ZLWK ³WKH GUHDPLHVW dream ballets I’ve seen in years”, says the New York Times’ Ben Brantley. Megan Fairchild, a principal dancer with New York City Ballet, is “a goddess” when she dances and the corps de ballet “seems to be dancing on air”, he says, adding that the music of Leonard Bernstein, under the direction of James Moore, “belongs equally to heaven and earth”. Variety’s Marilyn Stasio agrees that the dancing is sensational, although the young and vital cast is light on acting chops. “But although the show’s comic elements are much giddier than they need to be, that must have seemed like the safest way to go with the show, given the limited acting range of some key players.” Until May 2015.

- 28 -

When the Rain Stops Falling photo by Paul M. Rubenstein

Theatre

5DIĂ HV 6LQJDSRUH VLQFH

KATARA HOSPITALITY, PRESERVING ICONIC TREASURES There is much more to being a world-class hospitality organisation than just owning, managing or developing hotels. At Katara Hospitality, our appreciation for the past powers our aspirations for the future. Decades of experience,

an innovative mindset and meticulous attention to detail enable us to craft unique masterpieces that set new standards for others to follow. With us, it is all about our boundless passion for creating legendary hospitality, building on our heritage.

Katara Hospitality Building Marina District, Lusail City, PO Box 2977 Doha, Qatar T +974 4423 7777 F +974 4423 7860 info@katarahospitality.com www.katarahospitality.com

CRITIQUE

Art

The ancient, mysterious and magical world of Haitian art is explored at a new exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. Haiti: Two Centuries of Artistic Creation focuses on Haitian art from the 19th century to the present day. The core of the exhibition of over 160 works covers contemporary works, some SURGXFHG VSHFLÂżFDOO\ IRU WKH HYHQW The exhibition aims to go beyond stereotypes of voodoo symbols and rudimental painting, and explore the themes of “real countryâ€? and “dream landâ€? which co-exist in much Haitian art. Arc Magazine states: “The teeming conglomeration of 3RUW DX 3ULQFH DQG WKH H̆HUYHVFHQFH rippling through Haitian society have fostered a contemporary aesthetic expressed in forms including: painting, graphic art, installations, videos and sculpture using recycled materials.â€? From November 19 to February 15, 2015.

In London, British pop artist Allen Jones earns a long-overdue appraisal at The Royal Academy of Arts. Allen Jones RA spans the entire career of the artist, from the 1960s when he DQG KLV SHHUV +RFNQH\ DQG &DXOÂżHOG were at the forefront of pop art, to the modern day. Guardian art critic Jonathan Jones has described Allen’s work as “an icy joke about the power of desireâ€?, and says that: “British pop art is intelligent and ironic, and deeply skeptical about all it seems to celebrate. Its anthem, after all, is ‘I can’t get no satisfaction’.â€? The new exhibition abandons a chronological approach, and instead traces connections and themes through Allen’s work over the decades. The visual language that emerges fuses painterly tradition with the iconography of city life, theatre and advertising – VRPHWKLQJ SRS DUW DÂżFLRQDGRV ZLOO recognise from US contemporary - 30 -

Andy Warhol’s oeuvre. From November 13 to January 25, 2015.

The name of Leonard A. Lauder is an extremely important one in the history of cubism, but he is not an artist. Rather, the Leonard A. Lauder collection contains some of the most important works from essential cubists like Georges Braque, Juan Gris and, of course, Pablo Picasso.

A new exhibition, Cubism: The Leonard A. Lauder Collection, at New York’s Metropolitan Museum RI $UW PDUNV WKH ÂżUVW WLPH /DXGHUÂśV incredible collection has been shown in its entirety. More than half focuses on the key period of cubism (1906-1914) when Braque and Picasso collaborated closely. Art critic Jason Farago says: “Among WKLV VKRZÂśV PDQ\ YLUWXHV LW R̆HUV D reminder that Braque was the equal of Picasso, maybe even the better SDLQWHU LQ WKH \HDUV EHIRUH WKH ÂżUVW world war.â€? Roberta Smith of the New York Times disagrees, stating: “As usual with all things Cubist, and despite Braque’s essential contributions, Picasso is the star and resident demon here, a sharpeyed collaborator and relentless innovator. And this is not just because he is represented in here by twice as many works.â€? On show until February 16, 2015.

Š Sandro Miller courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago

ART & DESIGN

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John

Malkovich Being...

The award-winning actor has recreated iconic images for a new exhibition from photographer Sandro Miller Words: RICHARD JENKINS

W

hen you have one of the most recognisable faces in Hollywood, the desire to lose yourself in other characters must JURZ VWURQJHU E\ WKH GD\ /LYLQJ ÂżOP OHJHQG John Malkovich is one of the most respected DFWRUV SO\LQJ KLV WUDGH WRGD\ ZLWK ÂżOP UROHV in The Killing Fields, Of Mice and Men and, of course, the genre-bending Being John Malkovich cementing his place in the pantheon of cinema greats.

His latest role, however, is one that involves still images rather than moving – but no less dedication to character. Photographer Sandro Miller convinced the thespian to star in a series of re-enactments of iconic photographs in a new exhibition titled Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich: Homage to Photographic Masters, which makes its debut at the Catherine Edelman Gallery in Chicago on November 7.

Miller, who has worked with the actor for

nearly two decades, says: “I began working with John Malkovich more than 17 years ago, when he was an ensemble member of the world-renowned Steppenwolf Theatre Company. I met John during a photo session, and we’ve been friends and collaborators ever since that initial meeting, creating 120 portraits to date. Over the past 17 years I would approach John with various personal SURMHFWV UDQJLQJ IURP VKRUW ÂżOPV WR photographic stories. He has never said no. He is extremely open minded, never fearful and always willing to go to places most actors of his calibre would avoid. He is a genius willing to take chances, with a talent that allows him to become anything I ask. His willingness to play dress up, and become the subject of some of the most iconic images from history, is a true gift.â€?

The idea for Miller’s latest exhibition came from the photographer’s desire to pay homage to the masters of his craft, the men and women who captured the essence of some of the most iconic stars of all time. Miller says: “I chose

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© Sandro Miller courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago

© Sandro Miller courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago

© Sandro Miller courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago

ART & DESIGN

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© Sandro Miller courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago

John because, deep in my heart, I knew he was the only actor who would be willing to morph into the numerous subjects portrayed in the original images. My biggest fear was that people wouldn’t take this project seriously. I didn’t want these to be a parody. I was serious about paying homage to these photographers and photographs that changed my perspective on photography. These images inspired me throughout my career and developed me into the photographer I am today. I wanted and needed to honour these great photographers.

I needed the perfection of an actor who would put everything on the line. I watched John become a boy, girl, man, woman, Marilyn, Picasso, Hitchcock, Betty Davis and Che Guevara.”

The research for the series was meticulous.

Miller spent eight months examining every

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minute detail of the 28 images he wanted to recreate, and brought in a hair and makeup expert, stylist and set builder to begin the process of paying homage to the master photographers who created the original artworks.

After all that work, does the photographer have a favourite shot? Miller says: “One image that particularly stands out for me is the Diane Arbus ‘Twins’ shot in 1967. Arbus was brilliant in capturing these two beautiful twins - one with the expression of wonder and fear, while the other exposes a friendly excited state of mind. Both so different and unique. A bit eerie, leaving the viewer wanting to know more of these two twins. John studied these two interesting sisters and became each of them. It was truly amazing to watch John morph from one to the other within seconds.”

ART & DESIGN

Vivienne Westwood portrait by Christian Shambenait.

A new exhibition looks at how influential women have used fashion to shape their public image and get ahead

POWER DRESSING - 37 -

ART & DESIGN

W

Zaha Hadid photograph by Luke Hayes.

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‘Queen Elizabeth I used opulent bejewelled dresses to project power’ 7KH H[KLELWLRQ DOVR H[DPLQHV WKH ODVW \HDUV RI ZRPHQ¶V IDVKLRQ ± ORRNLQJ DW KRZ WKH ÀDSSHUV VFUHHQ JRGGHVVHV KLSSLHV SXQNV DQG SRZHU GUHVVHUV RI WKH SDVW KDYH LQÀXHQFHG WKH WUHQGV RI WRGD\ $ WLPHOLQH SUHVHQWV WKH VLJQL¿FDQW SROLWLFDO DQG VRFLDO PLOHVWRQHV IRU ZRPHQ LQ WKH WK DQG WK FHQWXULHV DQG FKDUWV WKH GHYHORSPHQW RI NH\ ORRNV DQG VW\OHV

You can seek the help of one doctor.

Or you can turn to Mayo Clinic.

At Mayo Clinic, a team of experts works together for you. No wonder Mayo Clinic was recognized as the No. 1 hospital in the United States by U.S. News & World Report. Visit mayoclinic.org or mayoclinic.org/arabic to learn more.

ROCHESTER , MINNESOTA , USA

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PHOENIX /SCOTTSDALE , ARIZONA , USA

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JACKSONVILLE , FLORIDA , USA

ART & DESIGN

At the forefront of one such moment was Coco Chanel. By the 1920s, the Victorian corset was regarded by many as physically oppressive and even associated with women’s inferior status. Chanel revolutionised women’s fashion by introducing a looser, more comfortable silhouette that freed women from constricting corsets. “I gave women a sense of freedom,â€? the designer once said. “I gave them back their bodies: bodies that were GUHQFKHG LQ VZHDW GXH WR IDVKLRQÂśV ÂżQHU\ lace, corsets, underclothes, padding.â€?

In the 1960s, Yves Saint Laurent created a similar sense of stylistic empowerment with his ‘Le Smoking’ suit, a vintage piece that is included in the exhibition. “The formal structure of the male tuxedo contrasted with feminine blouses to create a sexy, androgynous look,� explains Loveday. “Although radical at the time of its introduction, it would be the garment that sealed the acceptability of trousers as an alternative to the skirt, suit or dress.

This formal, elegant suit for women was a great success.�

The corset made a comeback in the 1980s and ‘90s, with Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier reworking restrictive garments to give women a provocative new shape that symbolised power and sensuality.

With underwear as outerwear, the LQÀXHQWLDO GHVLJQHUV FUHDWHG QHZ FODVVLFV VXFK as Westwood’s Statue of Liberty corset (part of the A/W 1987-8 Harris Tweed collection) and Gaultier’s infamous cone bra worn by

Margaret Thatcher suit Courtesy of Christie’s.

‘Margaret Thatcher’s personal style was honed to reflect her political determination’ Madonna during her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour. “I like to make women feel and look important,� Westwood once remarked. “I do believe people need power as much as they need love.�

British politician Margaret Thatcher, meanwhile, was subtler with her sartorial statements, combining authority with femininity to create a potent public image.

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ART & DESIGN 7KH H[KLELWLRQ LQFOXGHV D MDGH JUHHQ 0DQV¿HOG suit worn by Thatcher on the day she was FRQ¿UPHG OHDGHU RI WKH &RQVHUYDWLYH 3DUW\ in 1975, signalling her intention to be taken VHULRXVO\ )ROORZLQJ KHU HOHFWLRQ DV 3ULPH Minister in 1979, “she underwent a subtle, EXW QRWLFHDEOH PDNHRYHU DQG KHU SHUVRQDO VW\OH ZDV KRQHG WR UHÀHFW KHU SROLWLFDO GHWHUPLQDWLRQ ´ VD\V /RYHGD\ 2SHUDWLQJ LQ D PDQ¶V ZRUOG VKH FRXOGQ¶W GUHVV LQ D IULYRORXV PDQQHU RXW ZHQW WKH IXVV\ ERZV DQG LQ FDPH VLPSOHU EROGHU RXW¿WV 7KDWFKHU DFNQRZOHGJHG WKH UROH IDVKLRQ SOD\HG LQ KHU ULVH WR WKH WRS LQ KHU

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Text: Lara Brunt

PEARL LAM Courtesy of Pearl Lam Galleries, Photographer William Louey.

‘Following her divorce, Diana’s style became more self-assured and sophisticated’

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T U M I .C O M

ART & DESIGN

Pole

POSITION

Rainer W. Schlegelmilch has clicked and captured some of the greatest names in Formula One. To mark this month’s Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, the automotive photographer shares some of his most memorable motoring moments

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1.

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RADAR

2.

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RADAR

3.

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4.

1. “Here, Nina Rindt waits for her husband Jochen to pass by. He had a fatal accident at Parabolica just moments after this picture was taken at the 1970 Italian Grand Prix in Monza.”

4. “The taped up driving 3. “Lotus driver Jim Clark 2. “John Surtees and shoes of Swiss driver Jo in a very thoughtful fellow drivers run to Siffert before the Italian moment at the first their sports cars during Grand Prix in 1968.

Monaco GP I covered in the start of the 1964 24 The ‘normal’ leather 1963. Since then, I have Hours of Le Mans.” shoes were not strong never missed a Monaco enough.”

Grand Prix.”

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M ESUR E ET D ÉMESUR E *

TONDA METROGR APHE Steel Automatic chronograph movement Steel bracelet Made in Switzerland www.parmigiani.ch

Abu Dhabi, www.mrkhoory.com Main Showroom: 02-6313030, Emirates Palace: 02-6812112 opening soon Yas Mall

TIMEPIECES

TARIQ MALIK

Drive time Throughout the 1950s and ‘60s, Heuer became established as the market leaders for on-board rally chronographs and stopwatches.

It was also one of the few watchmakers able to produce high quality chronographs. This heritage and dedication to racing is easily recognised through the names of its models: Carrera, Monza, Daytona, Camaro, Silverstone, and, of course, the Monaco; all evoke the golden days of automotive racing.

At the Basel Fair in 1969, Heuer launched the first automatic chronograph. Developed jointly with Breitling and Hamilton, the movement was termed Chronomatic. Heuer called its movements the Calibre 11, and quickly developed the more reliable Calibre 12, a name that TAG Heuer continues to use. At Basel, Heuer launched the Calibre 11 across three models: the Carrera, the Autavia, and, in order to catch

the public’s attention, the Monaco, a new model showcasing a square chronograph – a completely new design.

Heuer was a pioneer in the racing world in more ways than just technology. The brand signed the first non-automotive sponsorship deal in Formula One history by enlisting Jo Siffert as a brand ambassador.

In terms of global brand recognition, Heuer’s tipping point was its partnership with Scuderia Ferrari, which lasted from 1971-79. The deal ensured that every Ferrari car and driver’s racing suit carried the Heuer logo. The recent film Rush portrayed the rivalry between Niki Lauda (Ferrari) and James Hunt (McLaren); the Heuer logo was highly visible throughout the film. Over the years, Heuer has sponsored racing legends including Ayrton Senna, Alain Prost, David Coulthard, Fernando Alonso and Lewis Hamilton.

While Heuer was a serious player with regards to its commitment to technology and the sport of racing, it reached legendary pop culture status in 1971. Steve McQueen, The King of Cool, featured in Le Mans, a documentary-like film that showcased the excitement and dangers of the 24-hour Le Mans race. In preparing for the role, McQueen sought the advice of his close friend Jo Siffert.

Unsurprisingly, he used both Siffert’s Porsche 917 and his Gulf racing suit.

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McQueen, impressed by the avantgarde design of the Monaco, wore it during filming. The film poster for Le Mans created McQueen’s most iconic image, one that clearly shows him wearing the Monaco. While this model can be found for US$15,000 up to $US25,000, in July 2012 the Monaco that McQueen wore for that photo shoot sold for US$799,500.

While the McQueen imagery provides a romantic reminder of Heuer’s past, TAG Heuer, as the company is now known, continues to innovate and remains at the cutting edge of measuring time. Launched at Basel 2004, the Monaco V4 was the first of its “haute horlogerie” creations. The design took inspiration from the automotive world, using belts and ball bearings to become the first belt-driven watch. With assistance from master watchmaker Philippe Dufour, it took a further five years for a production version to become available. In 2009, 40 years after the launch of the Calibre 11, TAG Heuer released a limited edition of 150 pieces of the Monaco V4 in platinum at a retail price of US$105,500. While TAG Heuer and the Monaco have a storied past, its future also looks quite exciting.

Tariq Malik is co-founder of Momentum, the UAE’s first and only vintage watch boutique momentumdubai.com

TIMEPIECES

It’s been almost 10 years since Hublot’s CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, unveiled the brand’s horology icon. But is the company futureproof?

THE

BIG BANG THEORY Words: RICHARD JENKINS

It’s been almost 10 years since Hublot’s CEO Jean-Claude Bivet unveiled the brand’s icon. But is the company futureproof?

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hat do Usain Bolt, JosĂŠ Mourinho and retired tennis ace ,OLH 1ăVWDVH have in common? Apart from topRI WKHLU ÂżHOG VXFFHVV RQH WKLQJ that links these otherwise disparate individuals would be what you’d ÂżQG DURXQG HDFK RI WKHLU ZULVWV $ORQJ ZLWK EDVNHWEDOO VWDU .REH %U\DQW DQG Âł.LQJ RI )RRWEDOO´ 3HOp these superstar names are all brand ambassadors for Hublot, the watch company with the short history and WKH ELJ IXWXUH AIR sat down with the company’s cheerful CEO and chairman, JeanClaude Biver, as Hublot launched its latest pop-up store in Dubai, which LQFOXGHV D K\SHU UHDOLVWLF )HUUDUL ) VLPXODWRU Âą VWRNLQJ LQWHUHVW LQ WKH UHJLRQ DKHDG RI WKLV PRQWKÂśV $EX 'KDEL *UDQG 3UL[ 'LVFXVVLQJ +XEORWÂśV RULJLQV %LYHU WRRN XV ULJKW EDFN WR WKH EHJLQQLQJ VD\LQJ Âł+XEORW ZDV IRXQGHG LQ DQG

it was founded in a very spectacular way because it came out with a watch WKDW ORRNHG OLNH D SRUWKROH ¹ E\ the way, Hublot means porthole in )UHQFK ¹ VR LW ZDV D YHU\ GLVUXSWLYH ELUWK 7KH ZDWFK ORRNHG OLNH D porthole and was with a rubber VWUDS $QG LQ WR SXW UXEEHU on the wrists of women and men was impossible, because it was not FRQVLGHUHG VRPHWKLQJ WKDW VKRXOG EH RQ WKH ZULVW 7KH W\UHV RI D FDU \HV EXW QRW RQ WKH ZULVW 6R +XEORW ZDV ERUQ LQ D GLVUXSWLYH ZD\ ´ )DVW IRUZDUG DOPRVW D TXDUWHU of a century, and the disruptions KDG VWDOOHG VRPHZKDW )RXQGHU Carlo Crocco was preoccupied E\ H[WHULRU GHVLJQ ZRUN DQG KLV activities for the charitable Handin-Hand foundation, and needed a PDQ WR RYHUVHH WKH ZDWFKPDNLQJ EXVLQHVV (QWHU %LYHU ZKR DW WKH WLPH ZDV SUHVLGHQW RI 6ZDWFKœV

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‘The partnership with Ferrari was very natural’ )RUPXOD 2QH FDU QR ,W ZDV QDWXUDO , NQRZ RQH RI WKH RZQHUV RI )LDW RI )HUUDUL /DSR (ONDQQ DQG /DSR FDOOHG PH RQH GD\ DQG VDLG µHey, why GRQ¶W ZH GR D SDUWQHUVKLS WRJHWKHU?’, DQG , VDLG \HV ´ It’s clear that over the last decade, +XEORW KDV EHHQ VWHHUHG LQ H[DFWO\ WKH GLUHFWLRQ %LYHU ZDQWHG LW WR JR 6R DV D PDQ WKDW DGPLWV KH SUHIHUV D FRPSDQ\ ZKHUH WKLQJV DUHQ¶W JRLQJ ZHOO GRHV KH VHH KLPVHOI OHDYLQJ +XEORW QRZ WKDW WKLQJV DUH JRLQJ VR VZLPPLQJO\" 1R FKDQFH %LYHU VD\V ³,W¶V VWLOO D VWDUW XS LW¶V VWLOO D company with very few people, it’s still a company that is so dynamic, WKDW , VWLOO IHHO JRRG DERXW :KDW I don’t like is when people feel comfortable and everybody has a secretary, and the secretary has an assistant, who has a student… it’s not P\ VW\OH :H DUH VWLOO SXVKLQJ DQG DV ORQJ DV ZH KDYH WKH VSLULW RI D VWDUW XS FRPSDQ\ ZH DUH VDIH ´

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TIMEPIECES

Middle Eastern Exclusives These luxury timepieces are only for sale in this region

Collecting luxury timepieces may have traditionally been seen as a male pursuit, but that’s something Jaeger LeCoultre has tried to combat with the glorious ladies’ Rendez-Vous Perpetual Calendar. The automatic movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, and the delicate yet sturdy

Only 30 units have been made of this stunning example of the Radiomir 10 Days GMT, with its elegant 47mm cushion case in polished steel. All the elements of the black sandwich dial, as well as the hands, appear in patented Super-LumiNova, giving incredible readability in low light.

What makes the watch stand out from standard

The Swiss watchmaker displayed its charitable side when it joined hands with Emirates Airlines and created this unique piece.

Designed for the Emirates’ “Time for Change� auction taking place on March 15 next year, the one-ofa-kind piece features a hand-wound mechanical

37.5mm case houses a surprisingly large number of complications, like the perpetual calendar, which will not need adjusting until March 2100. The watch’s bezel is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and the pink gold case side also has its share of sparkle that extends all the way to the lugs, DFFHQWXDWLQJ WKH SUR¿OH

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Perpetual Calendar

Radiomirs is the engraving on the case back, showing the Saudi swords emblem, representing King Abdul $]L] ,EQ 6DXG WKH ÂżUVW Saudi King. These watches are sold exclusively in the Panerai boutiques in Jeddah and Riyadh, and are well worth hunting out. For a smaller wrist, 150 similar units of the Luminor Marina have been made with a 44mm case.

Officine Panerai Radiomir

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon

skeleton movement, 28 jewels and the allimportant Poinçon de Genève stamp assuring its quality. The winning bidder will also be invited for a VIP visit to the Roger Dubuis Manufacture of Geneva to discover more about how this incredibly rare watch was made, from the masters themselves.

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Dubai’s debut watchmaking exhibition draws near Salon des Grandes Complications is the first of its kind in the Middle East The world’s most celebrated watchmakers will come together for the Salon des Grandes Complications, from November 25 to 27 at the Dubai International Financial Centre.

The exhibition will showcase a number of rare and limited edition timepieces, as well as share insights into the highest level of watchmaking from historically renowned factories and modernday independent watchmakers.

Visitors will be invited to discover the innermost workings of some of the most exciting watch brands in the world like A. Lange & SÜhne, Greubel Forsey and Piaget, among others, who will share secrets of hand engraving, the art of crafting movements and the mastery of the microscopic parts. Live demonstrations of some of the watchmakers’ key arts will truly make this exhibition stand out from many other similar events.

JEWELLERY Words: LARA BRUNT

ROMANCING the STONE A decade ago, David Morris launched a collection starring the long-forgotten rose-cut diamond. AIR looks at the romantic story behind its revival

L

ooking at a rose-cut diamond, with its many facets creating a beguilingly soft and subtle glimmer, it’s impossible to imagine why the cut ever went out of vogue. First used hundreds of years ago in Indian jewellery, the rose cut brought sparkle to such legendary stones as the Koh-i-Noor, the Regent Diamond and the Great Mogul Diamond, before its popularity declined as the brilliant cut emerged as the cut of choice in the 18th and 19th centuries.

That all changed in 2004, however, when renowned London jeweller David Morris – a brand that has enjoyed a long relationship with kings, sultans, sheiks and even Hollywood royalty, adding extra sparkle to WKH -DPHV %RQG ¿OPV ¹ GHEXWHG LWV 5RVH &XW 'LDPRQG

&ROOHFWLRQ :LWK YLQWDJH VW\OH ÂżUPO\ LQ IDVKLRQ WKH collection quickly became a favourite among jewellery FRQQRLVVHXUV DQG FHOHEULWLHV VXFK DV .DWH :LQVOHW /LO\ Allen and BeyoncĂŠ.

The man responsible for the revival of the antique cut was Jeremy Morris, who took the reigns of his father’s eponymous jewellery business in 2003, serving as managing director and principal designer. :KHQ GHVLJQLQJ D ZHGGLQJ EDQG IRU KLV ÂżDQFpH (ULQ a gemologist with a background in vintage jewels, he decided, after months of deliberation, that the rose cut was the perfect choice. “The rose cut resembles a delicate rosebud just before blossoming and, in candlelight, it twinkles like no other cut,â€? Jeremy Morris explains. “The reason why I used - 56 -

to introduce a collection based on her ring and the rose-cut diamond. Designing necklaces, bracelets and earrings was a natural progression.� The clean, unfussy lines of the collection has given the rose-cut a new lease of life, allowing women to wear vintage-style diamonds in a contemporary and stylish way.

The latest additions to the collection move on from the original white gold look and include yellow and rose gold versions. The new sprung bangle, meanwhile, features 15 sizeable diamonds each surrounded by a micro-pavÊ RI VPDOOHU GLDPRQGV ,W VOLSV RQ HDVLO\ DQG VLWV TXLWH ÀDW against the wrist, making it comfortable and easy to wear every day.

7KH URPDQWLF 5RVH &XW &ROOHFWLRQ KDV EHFRPH D signature of the jeweller, established in London in 1962 and now with boutiques in Hong Kong, Moscow and DFURVV WKH 0LGGOH (DVW LQ 'XEDL $EX 'KDEL 4DWDU DQG 6DXGL $UDELD (ULQ LWV PXVH ZRUNV DORQJVLGH KHU husband at the Bond Street atelier, handcrafting oneof-a-kind pieces for international collectors, royalty and celebrities. Together, the couple source beautiful gems, LQFOXGLQJ UDUH UXELHV VDSSKLUHV HPHUDOGV DQG ÂżQH diamonds, and design pieces that are often inspired by a love story as poignant as their own.

(ULQÂśV FUHDWLYH LQĂ€XHQFH KDV DOVR VHHQ RWKHU DQWLTXH diamond cuts, such as the cushion, asscher and briolette, incorporated into some of their designs. And while most of the pieces are inspired by a story, memory or emotion, the rose-cut diamond will undoubtedly always hold a special place in their hearts.

LW IRU (ULQÂśV ULQJ ZDV EHFDXVH RI LWV Ă€DWQHVV ,W DOORZHG me to make a ring that, while being wide, sits very close to the skin, unlike the normal diamond-set band which protrudes due to the depth of the stone.â€? &RPELQLQJ (ULQÂśV ORYH RI DQWLTXH DQG ROG FXW VWRQHV with Jeremy’s love of contemporary and unique designs, the rose-cut diamonds, with their large facets and clear depths, were set into a white gold band. The stunning and timeless design not only cemented the couple’s love, it also led to the creation of one of the company’s most successful collections. Âł(YHU\RQH ZKR VDZ (ULQÂśV ULQJ ZDQWHG RQH ´ H[SODLQV Morris. “So, of course, with her permission, we decided - 57 -

JEWELLERY

STAR POWER

As Chanel unveils its new celestial-inspired pieces, AIR looks at the enduring legacy of Mademoiselle Chanel’s one and only high jewellery collection Words: LARA BRUNT

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n November 1932, Gabrielle “Coco” &KDQHO XQYHLOHG KHU ¿UVW KLJK MHZHOOHU\ FROOHFWLRQ /LNH PRVW WKLQJV 0DGHPRLVHOOH &KDQHO GLG WKH FROOHFWLRQ FDXVHG TXLWH D VWLU &KDQHO ZDV FRQVLGHUHG D FRXWXULHU QRW D MHZHOOHU DQG KDG SUHYLRXVO\ GHVLJQHG RQO\ FRVWXPH MHZHOOHU\ WKDW ZDV ³UHIUHVKLQJO\ IUHH RI DUURJDQFH´ DFFRUGLQJ WR WKH GHVLJQHU ,Q WKH PLGVW RI WKH *UHDW 'HSUHVVLRQ &KDQHO GHEXWHG WKH RSXOHQW %LMRX[ GH 'LDPDQWV FROOHFWLRQ LQ KHU SULYDWH UHVLGHQFH DW

)DXERXUJ 6DLQW +RQRUp DQG GLVSOD\HG WKH SLHFHV RQ OLIH OLNH PDQQHTXLQ EXVWV UDWKHU WKDQ WUDGLWLRQDO YHOYHW MHZHOOHU¶V WUD\V – a PRYH WKDW ZDV FRQVLGHUHG UHYROXWLRQDU\ &UDIWHG IURP GLDPRQGV DQG SODWLQXP WKH FROOHFWLRQ IHDWXUHG VWDUV FRPHWV VXQV IULQJHV ULEERQV DQG IHDWKHUV ³, ZDQWHG WR FRYHU ZRPHQ ZLWK FRQVWHOODWLRQV 6WDUV 6WDUV RI DOO VL]HV ´ VKH SURFODLPHG +HU IDVFLQDWLRQ ZLWK FHOHVWLDO PRWLIV KDUNHG EDFN WR KHU FKLOGKRRG VSHQW DW WKH RUSKDQDJH RI WKH &DWKROLF PRQDVWHU\ RI $XED]LQH DGRUQHG

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‘Her fascination with celestial motifs harked back to her childhood spent at the orphanage of a monastery’ GHEXWHG D KLJK MHZHOOHU\ FROOHFWLRQ FDOOHG VLPSO\ ZKLFK SDLG KRPDJH WR PDQ\ RI WKH VDPH PRWLIV WKDW VR LQVSLUHG LWV IRXQGHU :LWK VSHFWDFXODU ZKLWH EODFN DQG \HOORZ GLDPRQGV DV ZHOO DV VWXQQLQJ EOXH VDSSKLUHV DQG FXOWXUHG SHDUOV VHW LQ SODWLQXP RU ZKLWH DQG \HOORZ JROG WKH YDVW FROOHFWLRQ RI SLHFHV ± RQH IRU HYHU\ \HDU ± FDSWXUHG WKH VSLULW RI WKH RULJLQDO /LNHZLVH WKH PDLVRQ¶V ODWHVW SLHFH FROOHFWLRQ /HV &RPHWHV GH &KDQHO WDNHV LWV FXHV IURP 0DGHPRLVHOOH¶V IDYRXULWH PRWLIV 7KH 1XLW GH 'LDPDQWV QHFNODFH LQ FDUDW ZKLWH JROG VHW ZLWK EULOOLDQW FXW GLDPRQGV VHHV D JOLWWHULQJ VWDU GHVFHQGLQJ IURP WKUHH VWUDQGV RI EODFN VSLQHO EHDGV ZKLOH WKH WZLVWLQJ ZKLWH JROG ULQJ IHDWXUHV D ODUJH GLDPRQG VHW VWDU DQG D URZ RI EODFN VSLQHO EHDGV 6LPLODUO\ VWULNLQJ DUH WKH HDUULQJV IHDWXULQJ EULOOLDQW FXW GLDPRQGV DQG FDVFDGLQJ EODFN VSLQHO EHDGV DQG EUDFHOHW ZLWK LWV WKUHH VWUDQG EODFN VSLQHOV DQG ZKLWH JROG DQG GLDPRQG VWDU PRWLI

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INTERIORS

Design bellissimo To celebrate this month’s Italian Luxury Interiors Exhibition in Dubai, AIR rounds up this season’s standout pieces from Italy’s notable design houses

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meemurano.com

‘Mee Murano’s chandeliers showcase Italy’s legendary Murano glass in all its glory’

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1.

TWO’S A CROWD Words: RICHARD JENKINS Formula One has played host to some of the greatest rivalries ever seen, and in the late 1980s the battles between Ayrton Senna and Alain Prost transcended the sport. Twenty years after Senna’s tragic death, AIR explores the competition between the two greats, and the reconciliation that never was...

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he cockpit of a Formula One car is at once the loneliest and most crowded place in the world. On the one hand, inside your helmet you have the constant chatter of the team radio, relaying information about fuel consumption, lap strategies and sector times.

On the other, in the vehicle you are totally alone. The fate of your team rests in your hands, currently engaged in wrestling with the most technologically advanced steering wheel ever produced. The greatest F1 champions are single-minded, ferociously focused and burning with the desire to be number one – which makes the notion of an F1 “team� a complicated one.

7KH WZR ¿HUFHO\ LQGLYLGXDO GULYHUV WKDW make up a team are in the unusual position of needing to work together, yet alone. Their points totals are added together at the end of the season to determine the constructors’ championship. However, the points earned E\ WKH ¿QLVKLQJ SRVLWLRQV RI HDFK LQGLYLGXDO driver determine the drivers’ championship.

As Formula1.com explains it: “If in a given UDFH 6HEDVWLDQ 9HWWHO ÂżQLVKHV VHFRQG IRU Red Bull and team mate Daniel Ricciardo ÂżIWK WKHQ 9HWWHO DQG 5LFFLDUGR VFRUH DQG 10 points respectively towards the drivers’ FKDPSLRQVKLS ZKLOH 5HG %XOO VFRUHV SRLQWV SOXV WRZDUGV WKH FRQVWUXFWRUVÂś championship.â€? The line between individual and team success, then, is extremely blurred.

If, on the last race of the season, Vettel can only win the drivers’ championship by ZD\ RI 5LFFLDUGR ¿QLVKLQJ ODVW ZKHUH GRHV Ricciardo’s loyalty lie? To the team, or to himself – to prove that each time he takes to WKH WUDFN KH PXVW ¿JKW DV KDUG DV SRVVLEOH IRU ¿UVW SODFH" It’s small wonder that, often, the egos and professional pride of the elite band of F1 racers clash within teams – sometimes spectacularly.

Ask any Formula One fan to pick the biggest rivals in the history of the sport, and you’ll hear two names: Senna and Prost.

Ayrton Senna was Brazil’s golden boy. A handsome, dreamy-eyed youth born in 1960 and brought up in comfortable surroundings QHDU 6mR 3DXOR KH GLVSOD\HG DQ DI¿QLW\ IRU engines from an extremely young age. Richard Williams, former chief sports writer for The Guardian and author of The Death of Ayrton Senna (widely regarded as the most complete SLFWXUH RI WKH UDFLQJ GULYHUœV OLIH WHOOV $,5 DERXW 6HQQDœV XSEULQJLQJ ³,W ZDV DIÀXHQW

2.

‘Ayrton Senna was Brazil’s golden boy. A handsome, dreamy-eyed youth’ Brazil is largely divided into the very rich and the very poor, and he was certainly on the comfortable side of that. They were certainly comfortably off enough to afford to get him a go-kart when he was tiny and, when he showed talent, to support him. He would always have been the kid who had access to good engines when he started off in karts.�

After showing great aptitude in karting, Senna moved up to British Formula 3, winning WKH FKDPSLRQVKLS LQ 7KH IROORZLQJ year saw Senna’s Formula One debut in the underpowered Toleman-Hart car, which is WKH ¿UVW WLPH KH FODVKHG ZLWK WKH UHLJQLQJ champion Alain Prost.

The Frenchman’s journey to Formula One success was more straightforward than Senna’s. Williams says: “Prost was a EHQHÂżFLDU\ RI WKH )UHQFK UDFLQJ GULYHUVÂś system of the time, which threw up in that period a whole generation of French drivers like Jean-Pierre Jabouille and Patrick Tamba.

Many of them came up through a racing - 64 -

3.

GULYHUVœ DFDGHP\ VSRQVRUHG E\ :LQ¿HOG cigarettes. Prost was certainly part of the French system. He didn’t actually start karting until his early teens, and I think it was almost by accident he got into it. But then he plugged into the French system, and at that time Renault were starting to get involved in Formula One, so it was relatively easy for )UHQFK GULYHUV WR ¿QG D SDWKZD\ WR WKH WRS %XW REYLRXVO\ KH ZDV WHUUL¿FDOO\ WDOHQWHG LW still wouldn’t have been easy.� ,Q WKH UDLQ DW WKH 0RQDFR *3 LQ 3URVW was leading the pack – but not by much, or for much longer. The young rookie Senna, preternaturally gifted at driving in wet FRQGLWLRQV ZDV PRYLQJ XS WKURXJK WKH ¿HOG and had Prost in his sights. The Frenchman, fully aware of what was coming up behind him, signalled to the chief steward of the track, Jacky Ickx, to stop the race and cite safety reasons – ensuring the full points

‘Senna was described as reckless and passionate, whereas Prost was pragmatic, ice-cool under pressure’ went to Prost and Senna would not have the chance to overtake. “Prost knew exactly what he was doing,â€? says Williams. “He wanted to stop the race while he was still in the lead and Senna was furious, and quite rightly so. +H VDZ LW DV WKH ÂżUVW LQVWDOPHQW RI D VHULHV RI injustices visited on him by the motor racing establishment, predominantly at that time French speaking. The head of the FIA at that time was Jean-Marie Balestre, who was a Frenchman, and of course Ickx who stopped the race was also a French speaker.â€?

The two racers had wildly different racing styles. Senna was often described as reckless, hot-blooded and passionate, whereas Prost was more pragmatic, ice-cool under pressure.

Williams recalls: “Senna’s ruthlessness was sort of hot-blooded and it wasn’t. Even when he was doing something reckless and potentially dangerous, he seemed to do it in quite a calculating way. He was such an interesting psychological study, not least how he reacted to adversity. You always felt that Senna was on the verge of walking away, if things went really bad for him. If the cards were stacked against him, he was somebody who would have walked off and

done something else. On the one hand he was very stable in his beliefs, and on the other, very volatile in his actions.â€? Prost, on the other hand: “Never looked as if he was going fast, even when he was going faster than anybody else. He was a very calm, methodical driver. ,W ZDV LQ WKH ZD\ KH GLG EXVLQHVV KH ZDV very shrewd and calculating. Senna was more Latin and emotional and upfront, and disliked that Prost was always scheming against him. ,W ZDV JUHDW ER[ RIÂżFH EHFDXVH WKH\ ZHUH VR GLVVLPLODU ,W ZDV OLNH WZR JXQÂżJKWHUV LQ WKH west, one with a black hat and one with a white hat.â€? %\ 6HQQD KDG FHPHQWHG KLV UHSXWDWLRQ as one of the brightest stars in the sport. Prost, driving for McLaren, was a doubleWorld Champion. The constructor was naturally desperate to have the two heavyweights of the division racing for the same team and signed Senna, with Prost’s approval.

Going from rivals to teammates could have seen the two men form a friendship – but in fact had the opposite effect. Williams says: “I think the feeling that despite having ZRQ WKH &KDPSLRQVKLS LQ Âľ ZKHQ WKH\ ZHUH together, Prost felt that Senna was the team’s IDYRXULWH +H ZDV WKH QHZ ER\ WKH RQH WKDW the team saw as the future. Arguably faster, too. And they’d had that big coming together at Suzuka [had Senna won the race in Suzuka, KH ZRXOG KDYH WDNHQ WKH &KDPSLRQVKLS – so Prost engineered a collision between the WZR WR HQVXUH WKH %UD]LOLDQ ZRXOGQÂśW ÂżQLVK WKH race] which was really when the bad feeling absolutely came to the surface, so Prost went off to Ferrari. Really, he was driven out of the team by Senna’s success. When you’re in a team with somebody who is your most direct rival, what you try and do is get the team on your side, and I think Senna did that. It had been Prost’s team, and it became Senna’s.â€?

In 1993, after four years of sniping, epic battles on the track and after winning a further World Championship with Williams, (whom Senna had also wanted to join, but Prost had a clause in his contract stating that KH DQG 6HQQD FRXOG QHYHU EH WHDPPDWHV

Prost retired. At his last Grand Prix in Australia, Prost was pulled onto the top step of the podium by Senna for an embrace. The next year, their potential reconciliation was tragically curtailed. Ayrton Senna was due to race at Imola on May 1, and a few days before WKH UDFH ZDV ÂżOPLQJ DQ LQ FDU ODS IRU )UHQFK - 66 -

- 67 4.

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Senna and World Champion Prost on rival teams in 1986 Senna as a toddler at home in 1964 A young Prost in 1980 Senna as reigning World Champion, 1992 The drivers share a word, 1988

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5.

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television channel TF1. Encountering Prost, who was by then a pundit on the channel, Senna said: “A special hello to my‌ to our dear friend Alain. We all miss you Alain.â€? This affectionate greeting surprised and touched Prost.

On raceday, as Senna rounded the highspeed Tamburello corner at Imola at around 307km/h, he lost control of his vehicle. It left the racing line and smashed into an unprotected concrete barrier, tearing off the right front wheel and nose cone before VSLQQLQJ WR D KDOW 7KH À\LQJ ZKHHO FUDVKHG into the car’s cockpit and collided with the driver. Senna sustained traumatic injuries and although the on-track medical team performed an immediate on-site tracheotomy, he died hours later at the Maggiore Hospital, Bologna. Later, a distraught Prost carried the FRI¿Q DW 6HQQDœV IXQHUDO 7KH WZR PHQ WKDW had so needled and detested each other also knew that they needed each other to reach the highest peaks of their success, and once Prost had retired and Senna had died, this tempestuous relationship was at an end.

Today, much is made of the rivalry between Mercedes’ drivers Lewis Hamilton and Nico Rosberg. Williams says: “You can see a lot of Senna in Hamilton. He’s very emotional. If he gets a bit of bad luck he really gets depressed and it affects his performance, more than it did Senna actually. But I think it’s right to say that in the current era he’s the closest to Senna in that he’s just blindingly quick, in all conditions, although not as ruthless. Rosberg is not quite the equivalent of Prost, in that when Senna and Prost were in the same team, Prost was already a World Champion with a lot of success and was accepted as being the best driver before Senna came along. But Rosberg like Prost is a very shrewd driver, even if he doesn’t have Prost’s coolness. It’s very exciting WR KDYH WZR JX\V ÂżJKWLQJ LW RXW EHFDXVH they’re in the same team no one can say it’s because one of them has the better car. It’s a VWUDLJKW ÂżJKW ´ Despite modern competition, Williams believes that the relationship between Prost DQG 6HQQD ZDV WKH PRVW ÂżHU\ LQ ) KLVWRU\ saying: “It was the one that really captured the attention of the world beyond Formula One LWVHOI EH\RQG WKH FRQÂżQHV RI WKH VSRUW ,W ZDV really down to the contrast in characters. And it was fairly early in the era of every race being televised live so people could watch it, and you knew they disliked each other. People sensed that, and that’s what made it so riveting.â€?

ART & DESIGN

Words: STEFANIE MARSH - 70 -

BOND GIRL TO GONE GIRL

HER HOLLYWOOD STATUS IS SET TO SOAR FOLLOWING THE RECENT RELEASE OF GONE GIRL. BUT BEFORE SHE DISCUSSES HER CAREER, ROSAMUND PIKE WOULD LIKE TO SET THE RECORD STRAIGHT...

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here are people ± HVSHFLDOO\ ¿OP critics – who are not VXUH ZKDW WR PDNH RI 5RVDPXQG 3LNH PLVWDNLQJ KHU IRU RQH RI WKRVH RYHU SULYLOHJHG GRHVQ¶W NQRZ VKH¶V ERUQ H[ 2[EULGJH EUDWV ZKR VDLO IURP WKH ODS RI OX[XU\ LQWR D SOXP %RQG *LUO UROH DJHG MXVW WKDQNV WR JRRG ORRNV ZHDOWK\ SDUHQWV DQG XVHIXO FRQQHFWLRQV DQG ZLWK PLQLPDO DFWXDO HIIRUW Her reputation as an actress is FRQIXVHG VWLOO PRUH E\ WKH UROHV VKH¶V FKRVHQ WR SOD\ RYHU KHU \HDU ¿OP FDUHHU ZKLFK WHQGV WR IHHO D ELW UXGGHUOHVV OXUFKLQJ LQ UDQJH DV ZHOO DV LQ GHSWK DQG TXDOLW\ WKH DFWLRQ JLUO IRLO WR 7RP &UXLVH LQ -DFN 5HDFKHU $QGURPHGD LQ WKH EDQDO :UDWK RI WKH 7LWDQV :KLOH WKHDWUH FULWLFV JHQHUDOO\ MXGJH KHU VWDJHFUDIW WR EH FRQVLVWHQWO\ JRRG WR RXWVWDQGLQJ WKHLU FROOHDJXHV RQ WKH ¿OP SDJHV DUH VWLOO GHOLEHUDWLQJ ZKHWKHU VKH ZLOO HYHU PDNH D VLPL ODUO\ LPSUHVVLYH VFUHHQ SUHVHQFH 7KHUH¶V D ¿QDO SUREOHP , ZRXOG

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Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the biggest pile of crap ever.â&#x20AC;?

Then she says that she has a rule never to talk about her boyfriend in interviews â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a rule that she goes on to break, several times.

So who is she really? I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, I say, imagine her dabbling in recreational drug use. You seem incredibly... Âł3XUH"´ VKH ÂżQLVKHV P\ TXHVWLRQ â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think I have a very hedonistic side but, to me, hedonism isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Dom PĂŠrignon and drugs; it is seizing the experience. The idea of sitting in a club in a private booth and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re given a bottle of vodka and you have to pay ÂŁ400 for it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that just makes my blood run cold. I hate it. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hedonism to me is...â&#x20AC;? She pauses. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One is always wanting to search for the golden bit; where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enchanted and magical, before anything gets sordid. I will try to FUHDWH WKRVH H[SHULHQFHV 'HÂżQLWHO\ if I throw a party, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be the leader of extravagance. Not going to bed

Does she decide what roles sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll go for on her own? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Do you know,â&#x20AC;? she says, breaking her no-talk-ofother-half diktat a second time, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have a very clever partner whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got a very astute mind and is very, very well read and articulate and ruthless about how something I do might play out on screen... My tendency is to identify with a character and perhaps imagine there is more on WKH SDJH WKDQ WKHUH LV +HÂśV TXLWH good at putting a check on that.â&#x20AC;?

In Gone Girl, released last month, Pike plays Amy Dunne opposite %HQ $IĂ&#x20AC;HFN 'XQQH LV DQ XQUHOLDEOH narrator and psychopathic, murdHURXV ZLIH )RU WKH ÂżUVW WLPH RQ screen, she was morbidly sinister.

Earlier Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d asked her to describe relations between famous actresses: can they ever be friends? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprisingly hard to get an actress to really, really talk to you about what they experience,â&#x20AC;? sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d said,

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;He was undeniably the most interesting person Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d ever come across â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I still feel thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; because thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too much going on.â&#x20AC;?

Because her partner is sober, she hardly drinks. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not someone who needs the lubrication of alcohol to throw myself into the spirit. I can be pretty wild without getting hammered.â&#x20AC;?

Robie Uniacke, 53, is a mathematical researcher who has four children from two marriages (Uniacke and Pike have a two-yearold son, Solo, and she is expecting their second child at the time of going to print). Pike started going out with him around six years ago and the timing suggests that this union is not unconnected to her rising star. Bond Girl at 21 (Die Another Day). Then Pride & Prejudice: theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re roles that her face GLFWDWHV 7KH ÂżUVW KLQW WKDW VKH FRXOG UHDOO\ DFW FDPH LQ LQ WKH ÂżOP adaptation of Lynn Barberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s book An Education, in which Pike plays the morally corrupt mistress of a highrolling thief.

regretfully. Probably, â&#x20AC;&#x153;because thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an air of competitiveness all around all the time and however PXFK \RX ÂżJKW LWÂśV QHYHU JRLQJ WR JR away.â&#x20AC;?

Her clinching of the Amy Dunne part is unlikely to melt away any tensions between Pike and her peers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an actress alive who wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have merrily murdered her for the role. Still, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s curious: she is neither a sex bomb nor a guarantor RI ER[ RIÂżFH VXFFHVV WKRXJK 'DYLG Fincher [director of Gone Girl] â&#x20AC;&#x153;is obviously an original thinker, the kind of director who is not going to be swayed by the algorithms of VRPHERG\ÂśV ER[ RIÂżFH KHDW´ So why her? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Those great auteurs tend to watch a lot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be on someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s radar. It is a very long process. I think he wanted to see if I had the balls to play the character.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not easy. It involves a certain amount of fearlessness and vanity, , VXSSRVH , Ă&#x20AC;HZ LQ VHFUHW WR 6W - 72 -

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© Boo George.

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Adventures in Words: LARA BRUNT

F A S H I O N As a new book celebrates the photography of Louis Vuitton, AIR looks at the rise of the 160-year-old maison and its ongoing evolution

W

ith its heritage as a trunk maker, Louis Vuitton has always been associated with travel. This month, the French maison takes fashion, art and design lovers on a journey of a different kind, with the release of Louis Vuitton Fashion Photography, a coffee-table tome featuring over 200 images by the likes of Annie Leibovitz, Helmut Newton, Mario Testino and Bruce Weber.

Published by Rizzoli and authored by Charlotte Cotton and Martin Harrison, the book is divided into three main sections â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fashion editorial since 1977, advertising FDPSDLJQV DQG D Ă&#x20AC;DVKEDFN WR WKH Âľ V Âą ZLWK D OLPLWHG edition version featuring three different covers by Patrick Demarchelier, Craig McDean or Bert Stern.

While the book provides an unprecedented visual KLVWRU\ RI WKH \HDU ROG ÂżUP Âą XQGRXEWHGO\ RQH of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most successful luxury labels â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s origins are far more humble. It all began with a 13-year-old boy named Louis Vuitton who left home, a

small hamlet in eastern Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jura region, to seek his fortune, arriving in Paris in 1837 aged 16.

It was the age of horse-drawn carriages, boats and trains, which meant baggage was handled roughly and craftsmen were required to pack and protect the possessions of well-heeled travellers. Vuitton was hired as an apprentice at the atelier of Monsieur MarĂŠchal, a box-maker and packer on Rue Saint-HonorĂŠ, and quickly became a valued employee.

Over the next 17 years, he steadily built his reputation DW WKH DWHOLHU FXOPLQDWLQJ LQ KLV DSSRLQWPHQW LQ as the personal box-maker and packer to Napoleon IIIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wife, the Empress of France. Two years later, Vuitton married 17-year-old ClĂŠmence-Emilie Parriaux and opened his own atelier near Place VendĂ´me, which was an immediate success.

With the dawn of the age of global travel, demand for larger luggage increased, forcing Vuitton to FRQWLQXRXVO\ LQQRYDWH ,Q KH GHEXWHG DQ HQWLUHO\ new trunk made of a grey canvas, rather than leather, that was rectangular instead of dome-shaped, making it

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Š Giampaolo Sgura.

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Š Louis Vuitton / Michel Mallard Studio.

Š LOUIS VUITTON FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY by Charlotte Cotton and Martin Harrison, Rizzoli New York, 2014.

stackable and far more convenient for transporting via rail and steamship. Most commentators consider this the birth of modern luggage.

With business booming, Vuitton opened a larger atelier the following year in Asnières, north east of Paris, where leather goods are still handcrafted today.

When Vuitton died in 1892, his son Georges took over WKH IDPLO\ ÂżUP DQG VWDUWHG LW RQ LWV SDWK RI JOREDO expansion. Key innovations included a tumbler lock, said to be unpickable, and the LV monogram, created in 1896 as a tribute to the maisonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founder, both of which are still used today.

In 1914, Vuitton opened the largest luggage store in the world on the Champs-ElysĂŠes, securing its reputation as the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most luxurious travel brand. %\ WKH WLPH WKH FRPSDQ\ UHDFKHG LWV FHQWHQDU\ LQ the LV monogram was instantly recognisable across the globe.

2YHU WKH QH[W FRXSOH RI GHFDGHV WKH ÂżUP FRQWLQXHG its multinational expansion, before merging with MoĂŤt Hennessy in 1987 to create LVMH, which has gone on to become the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier luxury goods conglomerate.

The following decade saw the brand expand into unchartered territory: fashion. New York designer Marc Jacobs was appointed creative director in 1997 and WKH ODEHOÂśV ÂżUVW SUrW j SRUWHU OLQHV ZHUH ODXQFKHG WKH following year.

Since then, Louis Vuitton has launched footwear, accessories and jewellery lines. During his 16-year tenure, Jacobs was credited with turning the historic trunk maker into a globally relevant fashion brand, complete with celebrity advertising campaigns, casting stars such as Jennifer Lopez, Angelina Jolie, 6HDQ &RQQHU\ DQG &DWKHULQH 'HQHXYH DQG Âľ,W EDJVÂś

Executive vice president, Delphine Arnault, and Nicolas Ghesquière, who took the reins as artistic director of womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections last November, initiated the project. Arnault describes the group as â&#x20AC;&#x153;geniusesâ&#x20AC;?. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We were interested in people who work with their minds and their hands. I thought it was so interesting â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and fun â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to have all of these different points of view on the monogram. It is inspiring to see how they envision things, to see their perspectives,â&#x20AC;? she says.

Ghesquière, formerly of Balenciaga â&#x20AC;&#x201C; where he VSHQW \HDUV DQG SXW WKH \HDU ROG IDVKLRQ KRXVH EDFN RQ WKH PDS Âą ODXQFKHG KLV GHEXW SUrW j SRUWHU and accessories collections to widespread acclaim earlier this year. His petites malles (little trunks) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;During his 16-year tenure, Marc Jacobs was credited with turning the historic trunk maker into a globally relevant fashion brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; with a roster of designers reinterpreting the famous PRQRJUDP LQFOXGLQJ 6WHSKHQ 6SURXVHÂśV JUDIÂżWL VW\OH bags and Takashi Murakamiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multi-coloured and cherry blossom designs.

In 1996, to celebrate the centenary of the launch of the classic monogram canvas, the company asked seven designers, including Vivienne Westwood, Azzedine AlaĂŻa and Manolo Blahnik, to create special pieces, which became highly sought-after. In a similar vein, to celebrate this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 160th anniversary, the maison has DJDLQ LQYLWHG VL[ FUHDWLYH LFRQV IURP WKH ÂżHOGV RI DUW architecture and design â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Christian Louboutin, Cindy Sherman, Frank Gehry, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Newson and Rei Kawakubo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to reimagine the monogram, with the Icons and Iconoclasts luggage collection available now in selected stores worldwide.

quintessential symbol of Vuitton scaled down into a clutch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; became the â&#x20AC;&#x153;must-haveâ&#x20AC;? bag of the season, while his trunk pendant necklaces, individually numbered and featuring working padlocks, were also a hit.

With the vast majority of the US$9.4-billion-a-year business in leather handbags and leather accessories Âą SUrW j SRUWHU PDNHV XS RQO\ D WLQ\ IUDFWLRQ RI /RXLV Vuittonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sales â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its next challenge is to grow this side of the business. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We like adventures,â&#x20AC;? Arnault told Vanity )DLU DIWHU *KHVTXLqUHÂśV ÂżUVW FDWZDON VKRZ (PERG\LQJ the spirit of its founder, the historic maison continues to map out an exciting new direction.

The limited edition version of Louis Vuitton Fashion Photography is available exclusively at louisvuitton.com

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THE

OZ O DYS S E Y *** THE WIZARD OF OZ AT 7 5 Munchkins behaving badly, a revolving door of directors and a cast of unhappy stars: why the making of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular movie was stormier than Kansas...

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A

t 5.30am on Thursday, August 17, 1939, lines began to form in the milky darkness outside Loew’s Capitol Theatre in New York. By 8.30am, ZKHQ WKH ER[ RI¿FH KDG ¿QDOO\ opened, there were 15,000 people FUDPPHG RQWR WKH VLGHZDON RQ WK $YHQXH $V WKH GD\ ZHQW RQ SROLFHPHQ ZHUH GUDIWHG LQ IURP DURXQG WKH FLW\ WR NHHS RUGHU DPRQJ WKH WXPXOWXRXV FURZG DQG E\ WKH WLPH /RHZ¶V FORVHG WKDW HYHQLQJ VRPH FXVWRPHUV KDG SDVVHG WKURXJK LWV GRRUV The opening day’s business of The Wizard of Oz was a triumph of marketing. In the weeks leading up to that PDQLF 1HZ <RUN SUHPLHUH -XG\ *DUODQG ZDV EDWWHG EHWZHHQ (DVW FRDVW DQG :HVW FRDVW RQ SURPRWLRQDO WRXUV $W /RHZ¶V VKH DSSHDUHG LQ SHUVRQ ZLWK 0LFNH\ 5RRQH\ ± DQ HYHQ ELJJHU FKLOG VWDU WKDQ *DUODQG DW WKH WLPH )RU WKUHH ZHHNV WKH SDLU LQWURGXFHG VFUHHQLQJV RI WKH ¿OP ZLWK IUHQHWLF VRQJ DQG GDQFH URXWLQHV 2QFH GXULQJ WKH UXQ VKH FROODSVHG IURP H[KDXVWLRQ 7KH SXEOLFLW\ SHRSOH VHQW RXW YDVW QXPEHUV RI µH[SORLWDWLRQ¶ ERRNV DGYLVLQJ FLQHPDV KRZ EHVW WR EULQJ LQ DXGLHQFHV 6WRUHV DURXQG WKH FRXQWU\ PDGH GLVSOD\V RI WLH LQ SURGXFWV VRPH REYLRXV 'RURWK\ VW\OH JLQJKDP GUHVVHV VRPH WHQXRXV 2] VRDSV 2] FRDW KDQJHUV 2] GDUWERDUGV 7KHUH ZHUH 2] FOXEV DQG 2] FRQWHVWV DQG PDJD]LQHV ¿OOHG ZLWK DGYHUWLVHPHQWV WKDW ZHUH SDLG IRU DQG SXII SLHFHV WKDW PLJKW DV ZHOO KDYH EHHQ 0HWUR *ROGZ\Q 0D\HU 0*0 QHHGHG WR SXVK WKH ¿OP DV IDU DV LW ZRXOG JR 7KH\¶G JRQH DOPRVW 86 PLOOLRQ RYHU WKHLU LQLWLDO JHQHURXV 86 PLOOLRQ EXGJHW VR WKH\ VKRYHG DQRWKHU PLOOLRQ GROODUV LQWR PDUNHWLQJ KRSLQJ WKDW WZR ZURQJV PLJKW PDNH D ULJKW ZKLFK WKH\ GLG ± HYHQWXDOO\ 7KH ¿OP EURNH HYHQ D GHFDGH ODWHU 2Q ¿UVW UHOHDVH WKH ¿OP ZDV D VXFFHVV EXW QRW D SKHQRPHQRQ :KDW FKDQJHG HYHU\WKLQJ ZDV WHOHYLVLRQ 7KDQNV WR WHOHYLVLRQ 2] LV QRZ WKH PRVW ZDWFKHG ¿OP LQ WKH ZRUOG PLOOLRQ SHRSOH DUH VXSSRVHG WR KDYH VHHQ WKH ¿OP LQ %ULWDLQ DORQH 7HOHYLVLRQ H[SODLQV ZK\ WKHUH DUH 2] FRQYHQWLRQV ± WKH ELJJHVW EHLQJ 2]IHVW KHOG HDFK \HDU LQ .DQVDV ± DQG IDQ FOXEV HYHQ WRGD\ :KHQ &%6 ¿UVW VFUHHQHG LW LQ PRVW RI WKH PLOOLRQ SHRSOH ZDWFKLQJ ZRXOG KDYH PLVVHG WKH PDJLFDO WUDQVIRUPDWLRQ IURP VHSLD WR 7HFKQLFRORU IRU ZDQW RI FRORXU WHOHYLVLRQV <HW WRGD\ HYHU\RQH NQRZV ZKDW KDSSHQV LI \RX NQRFN \RXU KHHOV WRJHWKHU WKUHH WLPHV 7KH PHQ ZKR PDGH 7KH :L]DUG RI 2] FDPH IURP DQ DJH EHIRUH WHOHYLVLRQ 7KLQN RI 1LFKRODV 6FKHQFN WKH RZQHU RI 0*0 SDUHQW FRPSDQ\ /RHZ¶V ZKR OLNHG KLV XQGHUOLQJV WR DGGUHVV KLP DV µWKH *HQHUDO¶ DQG 0*0 KHDG /RXLV % 0D\HU ZKR JDYH 2] WKH JR DKHDG +RZHYHU LI SURGXFHU 0HUY\Q /H5R\ ZHUH WHOOLQJ the story of Oz, forget Mayer: his would be the name LQ OLJKWV 0D\HU EURXJKW KLP LQWR 0*0 DV D VXFFHVVRU WR WKH OHJHQGDU\ SURGXFHU ,UYLQJ 7KDOEHUJ /H5R\ ZDV FRQVLGHUHG RQH RI WKH QLFHVW JX\V LQ +ROO\ZRRG EXW LQ KLV PHPRLUV KH QHYHU PLVVHG DQ RSSRUWXQLW\ WR WDNH

FUHGLW IRU WKH ¿OP¶V VXFFHVV +H VDLG WKDW LW ZDV KLV LGHD WR FDVW *DUODQG DV 'RURWK\ KLV LGHD WR XVH 7HFKQLFRORU IRU WKH 2] VFHQHV KLV LGHD GDPPLW WR PDNH WKH ¿OP LQ WKH ¿UVW SODFH While LeRoy was blowing his own horn, Arthur Freed, KLV PXVLFDOO\ EULOOLDQW DVVRFLDWH SURGXFHU GLGQ¶W HYHQ JHW D FUHGLW RQ 2] %XW LW ZDV DOPRVW FHUWDLQO\ )UHHG ZKR suggested to Mayer that they adapt L. Frank Baum’s ERRN IRU WKH PRYLHV $QG )UHHG ZDV VHQGLQJ 0D\HU FDVWLQJ VXJJHVWLRQV EHIRUH /H5R\ ZDV KLUHG /H5R\ DQG 6FKHQFN ZDQWHG WR EX\ ER[ RI¿FH LQVXUDQFH IRU WKH ¿OP DQG DV VXFK WKH\ SXVKHG IRU 6KLUOH\ 7HPSOH WR WDNH WKH UROH RI 'RURWK\ *DOH )UHHG KDG RWKHU LGHDV In 1935, a young woman auditioned for him and his songwriting partner Roger Edens. As soon as the girl RSHQHG KHU PRXWK )UHHG UXVKHG WR IHWFK 0D\HU ZKR burst into tears on hearing her sing. “What did I tell you, ERVV"´ )UHHG VDLG ³6KH¶V JRLQJ WR EH D ELJ VWDU ´ 7KDW JLUO RI FRXUVH ZDV *DUODQG 9LFWRU )OHPLQJ WKH ¿OP¶V PDLQ GLUHFWRU OLNHG WR VD\ REVWDFOHV PDGH IRU D EHWWHU SLFWXUH +H¶G FRPH WR WKH ULJKW SODFH ZKHQ KH SLWFKHG XS LQ 2] /H5R\ UHPHPEHUHG WKH PDNLQJ RI WKH ¿OP DV ³RQH JLJDQWLF KHDGDFKH´ 7KH GLUHFWRUV¶ UHYROYLQJ GRRU ZDV D WLQ\ IHDWXUH DW WKH IRRW RI WKH H[WUDRUGLQDU\ HGL¿FH FRQFHLYHG E\ GR]HQV RI ZULWHUV DQG SURGXFHUV EXLOW E\ KXQGUHGV RI FDUSHQWHUV DQG HOHFWULFLDQV DQG SHRSOHG E\ D FDVW RI WKRXVDQGV ,W ZDV XQSUHFHGHQWHG LQ VL]H DQG DPELWLRQ ³7KH ELJJHVW VHW ZLOO EH 0XQFKNLQODQG ´ ZURWH &HGULF *LEERQV WKH KHDG RI WKH DUW GHSDUWPHQW LQ D SUH SURGXFWLRQ PHPR ³2Q LW ZLOO EH VWUXFWXUHV RQH IRXUWK QRUPDO VL]H ,W ZLOO WDNH D PRQWK WR EXLOG ´ 6XFK VDQJ IURLG 0XQFKNLQODQG ZDV RQO\ RQH RI WKH VHWV FRQVWUXFWHG IRU WKH ¿OP RYHU VL[ VRXQGVWDJHV LQ &XOYHU &LW\ WKH KRPH RI 0*0 6WXGLRV 7KH H[WUDYDJDQW VSLULW RI WKH ¿OP WUDQVODWHG LQWR D VFRUH RI PHWLFXORXV DQG KLJKO\ VSHFLDOLVHG MREV 7ZHQW\ PHQ VSHQW D ZHHN VWLFNLQJ ZLUH VWHPPHG

‘Thanks to television, Oz is now the most watched film in the world’ SRSSLHV LQWR WKH JURXQG IRU WKH VFHQHV LQ WKH HQFKDQWHG SRSS\ ¿HOG 7R FUHDWH WKH HHULH FULHV LQ WKH +DXQWHG )RUHVW 'RXJODV 6KHDUHU WKH ¿OP¶V VRXQG GHVLJQHU WRRN D WHDP WR 6DQWD &DWDOLQD 7KHUH WKH\ UHFRUGHG ELUGFDOOV RQ IHHW RI WDSH ZKLFK WKH\ ODWHU VSXQ WRJHWKHU into unearthly shrieks. $GULDQ WKH FRVWXPH GHVLJQHU ORYHG %DXP¶V 2] books when growing up. When he began to think DERXW WKH FRVWXPHV KH JRW KLV VLVWHU WR VHQG KLP KLV ER\KRRG VNHWFKERRNV ¿OOHG ZLWK SLFWXUHV KH¶G GUDZQ RI WKH LQKDELWDQWV RI 2] +H WKHQ PDGH LQGLYLGXDO VNHWFKHV IRU FRVWXPHV

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GRZQ DQ H[SHQVLYH FRVWXPH GXULQJ WKH ¿OPLQJ RI /LWWOH Women. But the plump, gay Cukor was a world apart from Fleming. In the short time he worked on Oz he PDGH RYHU *DUODQG¶V 'RURWK\ UHPRYLQJ KHU EORQGH ZLJ DQG VWULSSLQJ RII KHU KHDY\ PDNH XS $QG KH XUJHG KHU WR SOD\ 'RURWK\ VWUDLJKW 7RZDUGV WKH HQG RI SURGXFWLRQ ± ZKLFK ¿QDOO\ ZUDSSHG RQ 0DUFK ± D IRXUWK GLUHFWRU HQWHUHG WKH PL[ .LQJ 9LGRU )OHPLQJ KDG VKRW DERXW SHU FHQW RI WKH ¿OP ZKHQ KH ZDV SXOOHG WR WDNH RYHU GLUHFWLRQ RQ *RQH :LWK 7KH :LQG 6R LW ZDV GRZQ WR 9LGRU WR VKRRW DOO WKH .DQVDV VHTXHQFHV LQFOXGLQJ WKH LFRQLF VFHQH LQ ZKLFK *DUODQG ZDONV DURXQG WKH EDUQ\DUG VLQJLQJ 2YHU the Rainbow. :KHQ )OHPLQJ UHWXUQHG WR HGLW WKH PRYLH WKDW VFHQH FDXVHG KLP D JUHDW GHDO RI JULHI ,W KDG EHHQ ZULWWHQ E\ +DUROG $UOHQ DV D EDOODG WR VHJXH IURP .DQVDV WR 2] EXW )OHPLQJ WKRXJKW LW PDGH WKH PRYLH GUDJ DQG FXW LW $UOHQ DQG WKH O\ULFLVW <LS +DUEXUJ ZHUH IUDQWLF ³:H knew that this was the ballad of the show,” Harburg said. “This is the number we were depending on. We GHFLGHG WR WDNH DFWLRQ :H ZHQW WR WKH IURQW RI¿FH ZH ZHQW WR WKH EDFN RI¿FH ZH SOHDGHG ZH FULHG ZH WRUH our hair.” In the end, it was Mayer who got Fleming WR UHWKLQN KLV GHFLVLRQ ³7KH VRQJ ZHQW EDFN LQ WKH SLFWXUH ´ +DUEXUJ VDLG ³DQG RI FRXUVH \RX NQRZ ZKDW happened next.” /DKU 5D\ %ROJHU WKH 6FDUHFURZ DQG -DFN +DOH\ WKH 7LQ 0DQ JULSHG FHDVHOHVVO\ DERXW ZRUNLQJ FRQGLWLRQV ¿OP 0*0 KDG PDGH LQ WKUHH VWULS 7HFKQLFRORU WKHQ RQ 2] +DOH\ ZDV OXFN\ WR EH SDUW RI WKH PRYLH DW DOO +H D QHZ WHFKQRORJ\ 7KH OLJKWLQJ KDG WR EH VXSHU EULJKW ZDV DQ WK KRXU UHSODFHPHQW IRU %XGG\ (EVHQ ZKR KDG EHFDXVH ¿OP SDVVHG WKURXJK WKH EXON\ OXPEHULQJ been poisoned by the aluminium dust in his make-up.

FDPHUDV VR VORZO\ Temperatures on set rose to 38°C as the lights burned (EVHQ KDG UHKHDUVHG DV WKH 7LQ 0DQ IRU ZHHNV DQG UHFRUGHG DOO KLV VRQJV EXW HQGHG XS VLFN LQ DQ LURQ OXQJ XS HQRXJK HQHUJ\ WR OLJKW ¿YH URRP KRXVHV (YHQ VR FRORXUV ZHUH PDQJOHG E\ WKH 7HFKQLFRORU SURFHVV ,W a footnote in Oz history. %XW ZDV +DOH\ JUDWHIXO WR EH LQ WKH ¿OP" 1RW WRRN WKH DUW GHSDUWPHQW D ZHHN WR ¿QG WKH ULJKW VKDGH RI EULFN WR PDNH WKH <HOORZ %ULFN 5RDG WKHLU ¿UVW DWWHPSWV HVSHFLDOO\ ³,W ZDV DZIXO´ KH VDLG ³<RX FRXOGQ¶W KDYH fun… I had to drag myself to work.” Part of the problem FDPH RXW D PXGG\ JUHHQ ZDV KLV PHWDO VKHHWLQJ FRVWXPH ZKLFK ZDV VR VWLII 9LFWRU )OHPLQJ VWURGH RQ WR VHW LQ 1RYHPEHU WKDW KH FRXOGQ¶W VLW GRZQ LQ LW 5HVWV VXFK DV WKH\ ZHUH +H DUULYHG WR UHVFXH WKH SURGXFWLRQ DIWHU /H5R\ ZHUH WDNHQ SURSSHG XS DJDLQVW D VSHFLDOO\ FRQVWUXFWHG GLVPLVVHG WKH ¿UVW GLUHFWRU 5LFKDUG 7KRUSH OHVV WKDQ D PRQWK LQWR ¿OPLQJ 7KRUSH KH H[SODLQHG ³MXVW GLGQ¶W ‘leaning board’. /DKU KDG LW HYHQ ZRUVH 0RXOGHG VSRQJH UXEEHU ZDV XQGHUVWDQG WKH VWRU\« WR PDNH D IDLU\ VWRU\ \RX KDYH WR DQ LQQRYDWLRQ GLVFRYHUHG E\ WKH PDNH XS SHRSOH RQ 2] think like a kid”.

6SRQJH UXEEHU ZDV ZKDW JDYH WKH /LRQ KLV VQRXW WKH +RZ /H5R\ ¿JXUHG WKDW )OHPLQJ ZDV WKH ZLGH H\HG 6FDUHFURZ KLV KHDG ZKDW SXW WKH KRRN LQ WKH :LFNHG boy to handle Oz is a mystery. Fleming was known as :LWFK¶V QRVH 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ /DKU¶V IDFH PRXOGV ZHUH D PDQ¶V PDQ DQG KH GLGQ¶W KDYH WLPH IRU IRROLVKQHVV VR UHVWULFWLYH WKDW KH KDG WR HDW DOO KLV PHDOV WKURXJK D *DUODQG KDG SLFNHG XS D UHSXWDWLRQ IRU UXLQLQJ WDNHV straw.

ZLWK KHU JLJJOLQJ RQ WKH VHW RI /LVWHQ 'DUOLQJ ,Q D Lahr, Bolger and Haley fooled around and told VFHQH ZLWK WKH &RZDUGO\ /LRQ %HUW /DKU VKH IRXQG KLV HDFK RWKHU GLUW\ VWRULHV WR NHHS WKHPVHOYHV VDQH ³9LF FORZQLQJ VR LUUHVLVWLEOH WKDW VKH IHOO DERXW ODXJKLQJ )OHPLQJ KDG QHYHU H[SHULHQFHG JX\V OLNH XV ´ /DKU VDLG )OHPLQJ VODSSHG KHU IDFH ³$OO ULJKW QRZ ´ KH JURZOHG “We’d kid around up to the last minute and go on. You ³JR EDFN WR \RXU GUHVVLQJ URRP ´ FRXOG VHH KH JRW PDG DQG UHG IDFHG ´ )RU D ZHHN LQ EHWZHHQ 7KRUSH¶V ¿ULQJ DQG )OHPLQJ¶V Others suffered for their art. Terry, the Cairns KLULQJ *HRUJH &XNRU WRRN XS UHVLGHQFH LQ WKH GLUHFWRU¶V WHUULHU ZKR SOD\HG 7RWR ZDV SURQH WR VWDJLQJ FDQLQH FKDLU &XNRU ZDVQ¶W DOO VZHHWQHVV DQG OLJKW ± KH RQFH µQHUYRXV EUHDNGRZQV¶ %XW KHU SUREOHPV SDOHG LQWR VODSSHG .DWKDULQH +HSEXUQ ZKHQ VKH VSLOW LFH FUHDP

,Q 6HSWHPEHU WKH VHDPVWUHVVHV EHJDQ WKHLU ZRUN (YHU\WKLQJ IURP WKH IHOW YHVWV MDFNHWV ERQQHWV DQG GUHVVHV RI WKH 0XQFKNLQV WR WKH KHDY\ IXU FRYHUHG XQLIRUPV RI WKH :LQNLHV WKH :LFNHG :LWFK¶V VROGLHUV

ZDV FXVWRP PDGH /HWWHUV ZHUH VHQW WR ]RRNHHSHUV DURXQG WKH 86 DVNLQJ IRU WKH IHDWKHUV RI FRQGRUV HDJOHV DQG YXOWXUHV ZKLFK ZHUH VWLWFKHG WRJHWKHU WR PDNH ZLQJV IRU WKH ZLWFK¶V WHUULI\LQJ À\LQJ PRQNH\V 7KRXVDQGV RI SDLUV RI VKRHV DQG VWRFNLQJV ZHUH G\HG green for the inhabitants of the Emerald City. %DXP KDG ZULWWHQ DERXW 'RURWK\¶V PDJLFDO VLOYHU slippers in The Wonderful Wizard of Oz and so they UHPDLQHG LQ WKH ¿UVW WKUHH GUDIWV RI WKH VFULSW %\ WKH WLPH $GULDQ FDPH WR GHVLJQ WKHP 7HFKQLFRORU FRQVFLRXV ZULWHUV KDG PDGH WKHP UXE\ +H VHQW WKHP RYHU WR WKH EHDGLQJ GHSDUWPHQW ZKHUH WKH\ VHZHG KXQGUHGV RI GDUN UHG VHTXLQV RQ WR SLQN FKLIIRQ ZKLFK was then sewn to the shoes. &RORXU LV YLWDO LQ WKH ¿OP QRW MXVW WKH UXE\ VOLSSHUV EXW WKH <HOORZ %ULFN 5RDG WKH (PHUDOG &LW\ DQG WKH JUHHQ VNLQQHG :LFNHG :LWFK ,W ZDV RQO\ WKH VHFRQG

‘Towards the end of production, a fourth director entered the mix’

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comparison with those of Margaret Hamilton. A former schoolteacher and character actress, Hamilton was the Wicked Witch of the West. She was housed in a tent rather than being given a dressing room and felt excluded by the male leads.

6KH ZDV DOVR EDGO\ EXUQHG LQ D EXUVW RI Ă&#x20AC;DPH ZKHQ a trapdoor failed to work. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When I looked down at my right hand,â&#x20AC;? she said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I thought I was going to faintâ&#x20AC;Ś WKH ÂżUH KDG VLQJHG P\ H\HEURZV RII DQG EXUQHG P\ FKHHNV DQG FKLQ ´ 7KH SDLQ ZDV LQWHQVLÂżHG E\ WKH FRSSHU in her make-up. Still, in later years she took pleasure in using her catchphrase â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get you, my pretty, and your little dog too!â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for comic effect.

Leo Singer was an agent who forged a reputation as WKH OHDGLQJ ÂżJXUH LQ D QLFKH DUHD RI VKRZ EXVLQHVV midget entertainment. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For 40 years,â&#x20AC;? wrote the San Francisco Chronicle in 1939, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Singer has made the little things count.â&#x20AC;? Singer was born a baron and died a pauper, a peripatetic soul whose travels took him across Europe from Vienna and eventually across the Atlantic to the US. En route he picked up a troupe of 50 midgets (or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;little peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as they preferred to be called).

The producers of Oz got in touch with Singer in the summer of 1938, on the hunt for Munchkins.

He told them that he could assemble the 124 little people â&#x20AC;&#x201C; proportionately correct midgets rather than dwarves, and all white â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they required. $V LW WXUQHG RXW KH GLGQÂśW IXOÂżO KLV FRQWUDFW Some of his little people were rejected because they were taller than 4ft 4in. The ÂľPLGJHW JUDSHYLQHÂś PDGH XS WKH GHÂżFLW EXW for his failure, Singerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s payment was cut. :KLFK LV KRZ Âľ3DSD 6LQJHUÂś HQGHG XS VWLIÂżQJ WKH OLWWOH people, taking half of each oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s US$100 weekly wage for himself.

The Munchkins are the last survivors of Oz. Today, there is only one left (Jerry Maren), as well as a few more child actors who were brought in to make up the numbers. Margaret Williams â&#x20AC;&#x201C; nĂŠe Pellegrini â&#x20AC;&#x201C; was D ERQD ÂżGH OLWWOH SHUVRQ DQG 0XQFKNLQ 6KH KHDUG DERXW WKH ÂżOP IURP VRPH OLWWOH SHRSOH VKHÂśG PHW DW WKH Memphis State Fair when she was 13. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d wanted her to join their troupe, but she refused. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t consider myself a small person at that time,â&#x20AC;? she told me on the phone from her home in Arizona in 2009 (she died in August 2013). They took her address and two years later a letter arrived from an agent asking if sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like a part LQ D ELJ PRWLRQ SLFWXUH 6KH JRW RQ D WUDLQ LQ 6KHIÂżHOG Alabama, and arrived in Hollywood in November 1938.

Stories of Munchkin excess have become the stuff of - 86 -

OHJHQG *DUODQG XVHG WR WHOO LQWHUYLHZHUV WKDW WKH\ JRW VPDVKHG HYHU\ QLJKW DQG KDG WR EH SOXFNHG RII WKH Ă&#x20AC;RRU DQG FDUULHG WR WKHLU EHGV LQ EXWWHUĂ&#x20AC;\ QHWV LeRoy wondered whether the little people â&#x20AC;&#x153;had little inhibitions to go with their little statureâ&#x20AC;?. He wrote in KLV PHPRLUV WKDW ÂłWKHUH ZHUH ÂżJKWV DQG DOO NLQGV RI FDUU\LQJV RQ $OPRVW HYHU\ QLJKW WKH &XOYHU &LW\ SROLFH KDG WR UXVK RYHU WR WKH KRWHO WR NHHS WKHP IURP NLOOLQJ HDFK RWKHU ´ Williams remembers things differently: â&#x20AC;&#x153;You know, WKH\ÂśG KDYH D IHZ GULQNV DQG SDUW\ DW QLJKW DW WKH hotel there, but they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get that rowdy, like they VDLG ´ 6KH DGPLWV WKDW DPRQJ WKH OLWWOH SHRSOH WKHUH were a few notorious â&#x20AC;&#x153;lush houndsâ&#x20AC;?. The manager of WKH &XOYHU &LW\ +RWHO ZKHUH WKH OLWWOH SHRSOH ZHUH SXW XS LV NQRZQ WR KDYH FDOOHG WKH SROLFH RQFH ZKHQ KLV FXVWRPHUV JRW WRR URZG\ $QG WKHUH ZDV RQH GD\ ZKHQ D OLWWOH SHUVRQ QDPHG &KDUOHV .HOOH\ WXUQHG XS RQ VHW SDFNLQJ WZR ORDGHG SLVWROV .HOOH\ ZDV D MHDORXV PDQ DQG KH IHOW FHUWDLQ WKDW &KDUOH\ %HFNHU Âą WKH PD\RU RI 0XQFKNLQODQG Âą ZDV PDNLQJ H\HV DW KLV ZLIH -HVVLH +H was right â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the two later married. %XW PRVW RI WKH WLPH WKH 0XQFKNLQV ZHUH WUHDWHG

to repeat when she stalked through the set en route to FKHZLQJ RXW VRPH XQIRUWXQDWH ³:DWFK RXW ´ VKH ZRXOG VD\ RPLQRXVO\ ³+HUH FRPHV 'RURWK\ $GRUDEOH ´ 7KH :L]DUG RI 2] ZDV WKH ¿OP WKDW URFNHWHG WKH \HDU ROG *DUODQG LQWR WKH 0*0 ¿UPDPHQW ,Q VKH ZRQ ¾%HVW -XYHQLOH 3HUIRUPHUœ ¹ ¾WKH 0XQFKNLQ $ZDUGœ DV VKH FDOOHG LW ¹ DW WKH 2VFDUV ,Q WKH VDPH \HDU VKH JRW KHU VWDU RXWVLGH *UDXPDQœV &KLQHVH 7KHDWUH %XW ZKHQ VKH DSSHDUHG RQ FKDW VKRZV ODWHU LQ KHU OLIH WHQVH DQG XQKDSS\ VKH EODPHG WKH ¿OPœV PDNHUV IRU WKH problems that plagued her for the rest of her life.

0*0 SURGGHG DQG SRNHG DQG SULPSHG *DUODQG LQWR D GUHDP SDFNDJH 0D\HU RUGHUHG WKH VWXGLR FRPPLVVDU\ WR IHHG KHU RQO\ FKLFNHQ VRXS %HIRUH WKH ÂżOP EHJDQ â&#x20AC;&#x153;she had a gap between her front teethâ&#x20AC;?, remembered /H5R\ Âł, VHQW KHU WR D GHQWLVW ZKR JDYH KHU WKDW ZLQQLQJ JDSOHVV VPLOH ´ (WKHO *XPP *DUODQGÂśV PRWKHU supposedly put her girl on pep pills to keep her going GXULQJ ÂżOPLQJ Âą ZLWK WKH FRQQLYDQFH RI 0*0 +HU breasts were bound to make her look younger and the FRVWXPLHUV SXW KHU LQ D WLJKW FRUVHW +HU PDOH FR VWDUV apparently tried to push her to the rear when they VNLSSHG DUP LQ DUP GRZQ WKH <HOORZ %ULFN 5RDG

Text: Horatia Harrod / The Daily Telegraph / The Interview People Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Almost every night the police had to rush over to the hotel to keep them from killing each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; OLNH EDELHV UDWKHU WKDQ KHOOUDLVHUV $ VWXGLR WHDFKHU RQFH WULHG WR URXQG XS D JURXS RI OLWWOH SHRSOH IRU FODVV PLVWDNLQJ WKHP IRU FKLOGUHQ :DUGUREH PLVWUHVVHV ZHUH VWDUWOHG WR ÂżQG WKDW WKH ÂłVK\ ER\V´ WKH\ ZHUH KHOSLQJ WR XQGUHVV ZHUH DFWXDOO\ PDWXUH PHQ 0HPRV UHIHUUHG WR Âł PLGJHWV DQG WZR DGXOWV´ $IWHU D OLWWOH SHUVRQ IHOO LQWR D ODYDWRU\ ERZO ELJ SHRSOH ZHUH DVVLJQHG WR KHOS WKH 0XQFKNLQV JR WR WKH ODYDWRU\ 3HRSOH OLNHG WR VD\ WKH 0XQFKNLQV ZHUH EHUVHUN ERR]HUV DQG Q\PSKRV EHFDXVH WKHUH ZDV WKH WLQLHVW JUDLQ RI WUXWK LQ LW EXW PRVWO\ EHFDXVH LW ZDV IXQQ\ $V Williams says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;People always like to â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how would I put it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; blow a story out of proportion.â&#x20AC;? ,Q WKH ODWH )RUWLHV 0*0 RZQHU 6FKHQFN ZDV approaFKHG E\ WKH &RPPLVVLRQHU RI 1DUFRWLFV ZKR ZDV FRQFHUQHG DERXW *DUODQGÂśV LQFUHDVLQJO\ SXEOLF GUXJ DGGLFWLRQ 6FKHQFN FRRO DV D FXFXPEHU UHSOLHG WKDW 0*0 KDG 86 PLOOLRQ ULGLQJ RQ KHU DW WKH ER[ RIÂżFH No way was she taking any time off.

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2Q WKH GD\ WKDW *DUODQG GLHG Âą -XQH DW WKH DJH RI Âą LW ZDV VDLG WKDW D WZLVWHU NLOOHG VL[ SHRSOH LQ .DQVDV :KDWÂśV FHUWDLQO\ WUXH LV WKDW ZKHQ KHU ERG\ ZDV Ă&#x20AC;RZQ EDFN IURP /RQGRQ WR WKH 86 WKH PDNH XS artist who prepared her body for the funeral was Charles 6FKUDP WKH VDPH PDQ ZKRÂśG GRQH KHU PDNH XS RQ 2] all those years before.

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MOTORING

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efore the Veyron, before the Koenigsegg Agera and the Hennessey Venom GT, there was this: the McLaren F1. For 12 long years after its release in 1993, the F1 was the king of the road, the undisputed master of speed.

Taking the crown from the Jaguar XJ220 which was released just a year previously, and putting the Jagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 341kp/h maximum speed to shame with an eye-watering 391kp/h in top gear, McLarenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic machine is simply one of the fastest cars to ever exist, even in small numbers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just 106 McLaren F1s were produced.

Coming off the back of the staggeringly successful 1988 Formula One season in which Ayrton Senna and Alain Prost had won 15 out of 16 races in the McLaren MP4/4 (although, as page 67â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feature shows, that success came at a cost), McLarenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s executive team found themselves waiting at Milan airport. Passing WLPH EHIRUH WKHLU Ă&#x20AC;LJKW WKH\ EHJDQ GLVFXVVLQJ the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future. The racetrack had clearly been mastered, and the four McLaren luminaries recognised their next target: conquering the road. Ron Dennis, the chairman of McLaren Automotive, said: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The more we discussed it, the more it appealed to me. One thing was certain, if McLaren was going to build a sports car, it would not only be WKH ÂżQHVW VSRUWV FDU WKH ZRUOG KDG HYHU VHHQ EXW DOVR WKH ÂżQHVW VSRUWV FDU WKH ZRUOG ZDV ever going to see.â&#x20AC;?

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THE

WINNING

FORMULA 7KH 0F/DUHQ ) LV \HDUV ROG EXW WKH HUD GH¿QLQJ supercar has left a legacy that will last much longer

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MOTORING

‘McLaren’s iconic machine is simply one of the fastest cars to ever exist, even in small numbers’

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Racing car designer Gordon Murray had originally conceived the concept, and once he had Ron Dennis on board, Peter Stevens was chosen to design the exterior and interior. But of course, this was the late 1980s â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the car didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make its debut until 1993. So what took them so long? Simply put, McLaren was crafting brilliance. From the shape of the body to the revolutionary interior design, and of course that gasp-inducing naturally aspirated engine, the F1 was designed to be the car of tomorrow â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the day after, and the day after that.

Starting from the outside, the most striking thing about the F1 was its bullet-shape, making it one of the most aerodynamically HIÂżFLHQW FDUV HYHU SURGXFHG 1R VSRLOHUV QR wings on struts, everything on the outside of the car was about providing absolute stability at high speed. Many months of modelling and wind tunnel testing contributed to a drag FRHIÂżFLHQW RI DOORZLQJ WKH FDU WR VOLS through the air effortlessly. Even today this number still stands up, as the Bugatti Veyron FDQ RQO\ ERDVW D GUDJ FRHIÂżFLHQW RI Âą LWÂśV good, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not quite McLaren. For a car that costs around US$860,000, this tremendous IHDW PDGH WKH FDU H[WUHPHO\ IXHO HIÂżFLHQW Âą not that many F1 owners needed to watch the pennies, of course.

Inside the cockpit was where Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision was truly to the fore. The designer had been working on a one-plus-two seating FRQÂżJXUDWLRQ VLQFH EXW KDG QRW IRXQG a car deserving of the unusual arrowhead concept â&#x20AC;&#x201C; until the F1. The driverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s central position gave an unparalleled view of the road ahead, and eliminated any concern about catching the alloy wheels on any curb â&#x20AC;&#x201C; being equidistant from each wheel meant that the driver was far more aware of how close the edge of the road was at any time. Another SUDFWLFDO EHQHÂżW RI WKH VHDWLQJ FRQFHSW ZDV the ability to place a passenger seat either side and slightly behind the driver â&#x20AC;&#x201C; making WKH ) WKH ÂżUVW WKUHH VHDWHU VXSHUFDU 7KH FDUERQ ÂżEUH PRQRFRTXH FKDVVLV RI HDFK ) took the McLaren team over 3,000 hours to build. The throttle pedal was handcrafted out of six separate pieces of titanium, and the instrument panels were all handmade, hand-painted and individually machined.

After the sale of an F1, the measurements of the customer were taken and the cabin was then customised to the new owner. The central position also helped the driver, as there were no wheel arches or pedal offset to negotiate.

Of course, what truly made the McLaren F1 stand out was its engine. The naturally aspirated 6.1 litre V12 powerplant was provided by BMW, after Honda had refused and Isuzu, who were planning an entry into Formula One, had been declined due to their lack of racing pedigree. Delivering over 620bhp, the engine was generating a fantastic amount of heat, so the engine bay was lined ZLWK WKH EHVW KHDW UHĂ&#x20AC;HFWRU DYDLODEOH Âą SXUH gold.

In April 1998, at Volkswagenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s test track in Germany, the McLaren F1 was piloted by racing driver Andy Wallace to its stunning 391kph peak. The new world record was achieved and would remain unbroken until 2005 when Bugatti took the speed lead. As for McLaren, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taken them 21 long years to scale the heights it found with the F1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be wise not to write it off from regaining its crown one day soon.

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GASTRONOMY

Turning Japanese Rainer Becker, the founder of Zuma, talks to AIR about his Japanese cooking philosophies and his pick for F1 glory this month

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GASTRONOMY

T

ake one German chef, add an Indian business partner, a hearty dash of Japanese food and place it all in the Middle East, and what have you got? One of the most successful restaurant chains in living memory.

5DLQHU %HFNHUÂśV =XPD ÂżUVW RSHQHG in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Knightsbridge in 2002, when his business partner Arjun Waney grew frustrated with the long waiting list at Nobu. In the dozen years since, new branches of Zuma have opened in Hong Kong, Istanbul, Miami and Dubai, as well as, most recently, Abu Dhabi.

When Zuma Dubai opened there were few Japanese restaurants in the UAE, and the overwhelming success of the restaurant surprised the chef himself. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The success of any restaurant is always a surprise,â&#x20AC;? says Becker. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The intriguing and

the cuisine but they fully understand it. Also our dining style of sharing lots of different dishes resonates, dining together and sharing dishes with fun and warmth is a very familiar dining style. There is an LGHQWLÂżFDWLRQ ZLWK WKDW ZDUP IDPLO\ approach to dining that perhaps ZDV PRUH GLIÂżFXOW WR DFKLHYH VD\ in Europe, where the traditional individual three courses are more typical.â&#x20AC;?

Becker isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only chef with big footprints in the Middle East.

There are dozens of Michelin stars jostling for position, and the chef thinks the UAE is now a genuine gastronomic destination. He says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a designated area on the Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best Restaurants list, of which I am proud Zuma has always been recognised. It not only boasts some exceptional gastronomic restaurants but it celebrates a street food culture WKDW GHÂżQHV D IRRG FXOWXUH RI QRWH ´

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The subtlety of Japanese cuisine is incredibly complex. At Zuma, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve created an accessible styleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; often exciting aspect of opening a restaurant is the gamble. If there was a science to opening a restaurant, if there was a guarantee, then everyone would do it. Some of the most successful restaurants can open in a new city and fail, whilst they still have waiting lists in other locations. You never know, but as I say thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part of the excitement.â&#x20AC;?

The key to success, according to Becker, is understanding the customer. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our food is created for non-Japanese tastes and although traditional, it is not authentic,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The subtlety of Japanese cuisine is incredibly complex. At Zuma, we have created an accessible style of Japanese cuisine and I think that resonates with all our customers. UAE nationals are some of the most travelled people in the ZRUOG DQG PDQ\ KDYH KDG ÂżUVW KDQG experience with different cultures so I believe they can not only appreciate

This year, the UAE got its second dose of Zuma when Becker opened Zuma Abu Dhabi, in The Galleria on Al Maryah Island. Becker is famously cautious when it comes to opening restaurants too close to one another, so how has he ensured the experience will differ from Dubai? â&#x20AC;&#x153;I work with designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu and have done since day one in London,â&#x20AC;? says the chef, continuing: â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have an incredible understanding of what Zuma looks and feels like. The design is always based around the same principles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the four natural elements of HDUWK ÂżUH ZDWHU DQG DLU 6R GLQHUV instantly feel at home and recognise the restaurant as being within the Zuma family when they enter.

However, they also individually UHĂ&#x20AC;HFW WKH XQLTXH FXOWXUHV RI WKH cities. Zuma Dubai is a much larger and more expansive, slightly bolder in style and dramatically located - 94 -

over two layers. Dubai has a world famous bar and resident DJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a very established vibe. Zuma Abu Dhabi enjoys a smaller, waterfront setting that is spread on one level and which is in keeping with the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family focused dining scene.â&#x20AC;?

November is the perfect time to visit Abu Dhabi and take in a meal at this famous restaurant. The travelling circus that is Formula One stops by, bringing with it a clutch of celebrities and hordes of racing fans. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I am a huge F1 enthusiast and have been to Abu Dhabi Grand Prix and loved it,â&#x20AC;? enthuses Becker. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My tip for the championship this year is Lewis Hamilton. He is a great driver, a regular of the Zuma family and a great guy.â&#x20AC;?

As well as being an F1 expert, - 95 -

Becker is something of a workaholic.

After an action-packed 2014 in which he opened Zuma restaurants in the UAE capital and New York, as well as two Roka restaurants (his spin-off robatayaki restaurants that focus more on the robata grill) in London, 2015 promises to be a little TXLHWHU +H KDV D QHZ GDXJKWHU D new home and a little room to think. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think 2015 may just be a planning year and hopefully one where I can WXUQ P\ DWWHQWLRQ WR ÂżQDOO\ FUHDWLQJ D =XPD ERRN ´ KH VD\V Âł, KDYH TXLWH a few different ideas in the pipeline.

Also I was really impressed with Chicago on a recent visit to the US so I think that may be on the cards, too, for Zuma, it is a very impressive city.â&#x20AC;? A year of rest for Becker still promises to pack in more than most chefs manage in a lifetime.

TRAVEL

All hail

ABU DHABI

With all eyes on the nation’s capital this month, AIR curates the best luxury leisure experiences

Check-in to a beachfront villa at… Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi

Spread over a ninekilometre stretch of white sand on Saadiyat Island, this exceptional “urban resort” neighbours an 18hole, Gary Player-designed golf course. The threebedroom Royal Villa, the only one of its kind, features a large outdoor terrace with private plunge pool and massage beds to make the most of those PDJQL¿FHQW VHD YLHZV Inside, there’s 355sqm of contemporary living space that’s perfect for family entertaining, with modern Arabian décor, plush furnishings, personalised butler service and a separate maid’s room. abudhabi.park.hyatt.com - 96 -

Sample Emirati cuisine at…

Mezlai at Emirates Palace

Executive chef Ali Salem – one of the few Emirati chefs in the region – serves up authentic meat and VHDIRRG GLVKHV LQ D UH¿QHG setting at Emirates Palace.

Highlights include lamb medfoun, marinated and roasted according to ageold Bedouin methods, and whole lobster grilled over hardwood with aromatic herbs and spices. Make sure you leave room for Mezlai’s fragrant desserts, LQFOXGLQJ ÀX̆\ SXPSNLQ DVVHGD DQG VD̆URQ LQIXVHG shebab. kempinski.com

Hire your own racetrack at…

Yas Marina Circuit

If you’re inspired by this month’s Formula One Grand Prix, how about hiring the very same circuit and putting your own high-performance vehicle to the test? The challenging 5.55km, 21-turn circuit demands control, accuracy and consistency. Experience both the north and south circuits and tear along the 1.2km straight – the longest straight of any current F1 circuit – as you strive to set your own track record. How close can you get to the fastest Formula One lap time of 1:40? yasmarinacircuit.com

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TRAVEL

Hit the beach atâ&#x20AC;Ś Bayshore Beach Club

Nestled between the jade-blue waters of the Arabian Gulf and the gleaming yachts of the private marina, the InterContinental Abu Dhabiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new beach club at is one of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best. Located just minutes from the Corniche, Bayshore has 300m of private beach, DQ LQÂżQLW\ SRRO ZLWK VZLP XS EDU open-air Jacuzzi and kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pool complete with waterslide, plus a serene day spa, state-of-the-art gym and casual, yet creative, restaurant.

Whether you check-in to the stylish Presidential Suite or just hire a luxury cabana for the day, chances are you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to leave your sun lounger. ihg.com

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Party after dark atâ&#x20AC;Ś Burlesque at Yas Viceroy

For something a little GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQW KHDG WR WKLV opulently decorated restaurant and bar for sultry live music, cabaretstyle entertainment and a shisha terrace overlooking Yas Marina (bound to be buzzing over race weekend).

Other top nightspots include the super-hip and exclusive O1NE Yas Island (pictured), which features international DJs (Armin van Buuren and Jason Derulo are in town for F1), 360-degree projection screens and fantastic VIP areas. Pharrell Williams and The Who, meanwhile, will be headlining the post-race concerts on November 22 and 23.

Discover the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s burgeoning art scene atâ&#x20AC;Ś Saadiyat Island

While the openings of the Zayed National Museum, Louvre Abu Dhabi and Guggenheim Abu Dhabi DUH VWLOO VRPH WLPH RĚ&#x2020; WKHUHÂśV plenty to cast your eyes over in the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exciting cultural district. The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading modern and contemporary art galleries descend from November 5 to 8 for the sixth annual Abu Dhabi Art, while Manarat Al Saadiyat hosts Seeing Through Light, an exhibition featuring works bound for the Guggenheim Abu Dhabiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s permanent collection (from November 5 until January 19). saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

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TRAVEL

Shop for limited edition luxuries at… The Galleria

With Yas Mall set to open this month, Abu Dhabi will soon have its own destination mall. The Galleria and Avenue at Etihad Towers, meanwhile, remain the city’s most exclusive high-end shopping enclaves, each stocking a number RI PXVW KDYH LWHPV \RX ZRQ¶W ¿QG anywhere else in the region. We’ve got our eye on Balenciaga’s Cable Shopper in electric blue and an IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia, both exclusive to The Galleria. thegalleria.ae

Snap up a holiday home at… Nurai Island

Holiday closer to home on this exclusive private island that feels wonderfully secluded, yet is just minutes by boat or helicopter from Saadiyat Island. There are just 12 water villas and 28 beachfront estates – including this spectacular six-bedroom HVWDWH R̆HUHG E\ 'XEDL Sotheby’s International Realty for Dhs55 million ± DOO ZLWK ÀRRU WR FHLOLQJ windows and wrap-around terraces. The island’s master plan also includes a discrete boutique hotel, restaurants, a spa and yoga studio, and helipad, plus a marina for yachts up to 60ft, with larger vessels accommodated in the specially created channels.

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Truly experience the desert atâ&#x20AC;Ś Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort

Taking its inspiration from the simple grandeur of an old desert fortress, this resort in the Liwa Desert boasts 10 Royal Pavilion villas with private plunge pools, four restaurants and the renowned Anantara spa with a Moroccan-style hammam. The real draw though is the endless landscape, with its ochre dunes, roaming wildlife and mesmerising sunsets. Enjoy falconry, camel rides, archery and dune bashing, or simply pass an evening gazing at the stars atop a towering dune in the style of centuries gone by. qasralsarab.anantara.com

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TRAVEL Admire the architecture from above in a… seaplane After marveling at the city’s architecture from the ground, see LW IURP D GL̆HUHQW SHUVSHFWLYH E\ WDNLQJ R̆ LQ D VHDSODQH IURP <DV 0DULQD 6HDZLQJV R̆HUV SULYDWH FKDUWHU ÀLJKWV DQG EHVSRNH DHULDO tours in a Cessna Amphibian aircraft, which seats up to nine passengers and a pilot. Soar above major landmarks such as the Corniche, Emirates Palace, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, Sheikh Zayed Bridge, Ferrari World and Yas Marina Circuit, as well as the glittering coastline and famous mangroves. seawings.ae

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PROPERT Y Spectacular Beachfront Estate Nurai Island, Abu Dhabi On entering this magnificent Shoreline Beachfront Estate on Nurai Island you will be taken by the incredible double-storey atrium, around which the rest of the property pivots. The property comprises a huge living room, 6 bedrooms, games room, terrace, balcony, office, kitchen, dining room, maid’s quarter, chef ’s quarter, study and storage room. Amenities include smart home technology, Jacuzzi, irrigation system, barbecue, steam room and sauna. The villa’s setting, slightly back from the beach, allows for a luxurious private garden with a reflecting pool bridging the grounds to the terrace and the sea beyond.

Seran Gheorghe | seran.gheorghe@dubaisir.com | +971 50 856 7553

Offers in the region of US$15,000,000

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Dubai’s Finest Addresss The 118 Downtown, Dubai This stunning luxury residential tower in Downtown Dubai is the height of style. A grand formal reception on the ground floor leads to 24 full floor residences and 3 Duplex Penthouses, all generously apportioned with views of Downtown Dubai. The tower’s facilities include terraces, a rooftop pool, spa and gym, plus a private driver’s residence in the podium.

Owners have a choice of two finishing styles - Signature Classic and Contemporary - for their residences, which are large, indulgent spaces designed as 4-bedroom domiciles, but which can be transformed into 2- or 3-bedroom residences based upon the preference of the owner.

Project sales department | psd@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$6,125,783 - 105 -

PROPERT Y

Three Bedroom Penthouse in Business Bay The Opus Residences, Dubai The Opus is an icon of architectural distinction; an extraordinary work of art created by the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most brilliant minds, thinkers and visionaries. Fully designed by the world-famous architect Dame Zaha Hadid DBE and home to ME Hotel by Melia Group of Hotels, a leading global hotel chain with a over 350 properties, The Opus houses The Opus Residences, a limited collection of luxury serviced residences. Each will contain furniture and fixtures exclusively hand-picked by Zaha Hadid, so that each residence is an individually crafted work of art.

Zoe Wang | zoe.wang@dubaisir.com | +971 55 938 8636

US$6,698,611 - 106 -

One-of-a-kind loft penthouse Dubai Marina Premier penthouse in the Emirates Crown building, one of Dubai’s tallest buildings, which stands in an area known as ‘Millionaire’s Mile’. Occupying the highest floor, this 7,800 Sq.Ft. penthouse showcases an unparalleled level of luxury, captivating architectural design and breathtaking views throughout the entire apartment. There is a stunningly modern and luxurious finish to the open-plan kitchen and dining room, which benefits from a wraparound terrace with expansive views over the Palm Jumeirah and Dubai Marina. This is a perfect pied-à-terre in which to entertain and call home.

Leigh Williamson | leigh.williamson@dubaisir.com | +971 50 957 2575

US$8,200,000

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LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW

Lulu Guinness

Fashion accessories designer My advice to someone starting out in fashion is to always work for someone else before you start your own business and remember itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not JRLQJ WR EH D DP SP MRE DW ÂżUVW ,W ZLOO QHHG \RXU IXOO FRPPLWPHQW /RRNLQJ EDFN WKH RQH WKLQJ , ZLVK VRPHRQH KDG WROG PH ZKHQ , ZDV VWDUWLQJ RXW LV WKDW \RX have to trust your gut and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sign on the dotted line unless you are absolutely sure, whatever the people in suits may say!

The biggest misconception about me is that people donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t UHDOLVH WKDW , DP FRPSOHWHO\ SDUW RI WKH GHVLJQ SURFHVV , WKLQN SHRSOH WKLQN , GR D IHZ VNHWFKHV WKHQ VZDQ DERXW GULQNLQJ FKDPSDJQH , ORRN IRU WRWDO FRPPLWPHQW LQ P\ employees, a sense of humour and the knowledge that if you pull together as a WHDP \RX FDQ DFKLHYH DQ\WKLQJ , PDNH VXUH , VKRZ P\ UHOHQWOHVV HQWKXVLDVP DQG H[FLWHPHQW IRU HYHU\ DVSHFW RI WKH EUDQG 7KH\ DOVR NQRZ , KDYH DQ XQGHUVWDQGLQJ of every job role in my business as it has JURZQ DQG H[SDQGHG Creative people used to be seen as the eccentrics; nowadays, we are far more respected, however, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot more FRPSHWLWLRQ LQ WKH IDVKLRQ LQGXVWU\ QRZ :KHQ , VWDUWHG GHVLJQLQJ WKH KDQGEDJ ZDV just something to carry your belongings in; now women carry them as a form of H[SUHVVLRQ :KLFK EUDQG VKH FDUULHV FDQ WHOO \RX D ORW DERXW WKH ZRPDQ For a woman, the balance of family DQG ZRUN LV DOZD\V JRLQJ WR EH WKHUH Sometimes you feel like you have it all under control and sometimes you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t; you just have to do the best you can as a PRWKHU <RX KDYH WR DFFHSW WKDW ZKDWHYHU you do your teenagers are going to have something to say about it and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not always complimentary! Just try and keep them all ODXJKLQJ Âą WKDWÂśV P\ PRWWR - 108 -

Discover Luxury

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