AIR Gama Aviation Sep'14

OUR SIGNATURE COLLECTION. QUATTROPORTE

BY MASERATI.

ALL-NEW QUATTROPORTE | QUATTROPORTE S | QUATTROPORTE GTS

TO MASTER AN ART WITH PASSION, INSPIRATION AND IMAGINATION, THIS IS MASERATI. EVER SINCE ITS FIRST INCARNATION, MASERATI’S FLAGSHIP RANGE REMAINS UNRIVALLED. QUATTROPORTE 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 330 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 500 NM - TOP SPEED: 263 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.6 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE S 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 410 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 550 NM - TOP SPEED: 285 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.1 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE GTS 3798 CC V8 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 530 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 650 NM - TOP SPEED: 307 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 4.7 SECONDS.

Q U A T T R O P O R T E

Bahrain, Euro Motors W.L.L.: 17 750750 Kuwait, Al Zayani Trading Co.: 1808010 Ext. 111 KSA Jeddah, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 02 6835148 KSA Riyadh, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 01 4664748 Lebanon, G.A. Bazerji & Sons LLC.: 01 263111 Oman, Alfardan Motors LLC.: 024 523014 Qatar, Alfardan Sports Motors Co. S.O.C.: 044 208788 UAE Abu Dhabi, Premier Motors: 02 4935000 UAE Dubai, Al Tayer Motors LLC.: 04 3037878 www.maserati.com

InterContinental速 Danang Sun Peninsula Resort

THE SEARCH FOR A MORE REWARDING LIFE WILL LEAD YOU BACK SOONER.

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CONTENTS / FEATURES Forty Eight

Sixty

Citizen Cashmere

Photographer of Style

Brunello Cucinelli on beating the bullies and building a billion-dollar fashion empire.

A new retrospective proves Horst P. Horst is one of the 20th century’s master photographers.

Fifty Four

Dear Brigitte

Sixty Four

The Region’s Runway As the ultimate siren of the sixties reaches 80, we look DW WKH LQFUHGLEOH LQÀXHQFH of Brigitte Bardot.

Could Dubai really be the next fashion powerhouse to rival Paris, Milan or London?

Sixty Eight

Carlo Brandelli The revolutionary menswear designer is back on Savile Row. So what happens next?

The Style Issue Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

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CONTENTS / REGUL ARS

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Business Development Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com Senior Designer Adam Sneade

Eighteen

Forty Four

Radar

Interiors

7KLV VHDVRQ¶V KRWWHVW FR̆HH Christian Lacroix takes on table tome, courtesy of the challenges of cushions Russell James. vs couture.

Twenty Eight

Seventy Two

Art & Design

Motoring

$,5 WDONV WR ¿OPPDNHU Andrew Birkin about his enigmatic sister, Jane.

When fashion and motoring collide, the results are beautiful.

Thirty Six

Seventy Six

Timepieces

Gastronomy

Bremont tackles Hollywood with a stunning collaboration.

A look at the restaurants that have their roots in the fashion world.

Forty

Eighty

Jewellery

Travel

Van Cleef & Arpels’ stunning new high jewellery collection.

Three style mavens share their favourite places to stay, shop and dine.

Designer Andy Knappett Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud Production Manager Chalitha Fernando Senior Business Development Manager Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com

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GAMA AVIATION

September 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

I’m delighted to welcome you to the September HGLWLRQ RI $,5 *DPDœV LQ ÀLJKW PDJD]LQH I hope you’ll enjoy learning more about our global business aviation group and the services we provide as you browse through the pages.

Gama is one of the world’s largest business jet operators – we have nearly 80 business jets operating all around the globe. Established in the United Kingdom in 1983, we’ve grown to have bases throughout the Middle East, Europe and North and South America as well as operating licences issued by the UAE, UK, US and Bermudan Authorities.

In addition to providing aircraft management and charter services, the group also provides aircraft maintenance, avionics design and installation, aviation software, aircraft cleaning, and leasing services to a wide range of clients.

Gama’s expansion in the Middle East continues to progress well; our regional ÀHHW KDV JURZQ VLJQL¿FDQWO\ RYHU WKH SDVW 12 months with the arrival of a number of aircraft, along with the continued development of our regional footprint and services. This LQFOXGHV WKH RSHQLQJ RI RXU -HGGDK ṘFH DQG Abu Dhabi base. Also, Gama is now operating the only business aviation FBO at Sharjah International Airport, which is proving to be a very popular facility for Sharjah and the Northern Emirates, as well as a practical alternative to Dubai International Airport.

Business aviation remains one of the best tools available to corporations and individuals who want to make time for themselves and it’s been pleasing to see a continued resurgence LQ FKDUWHU ÀLJKWV ¹ WKH ZRUOG LV WUDYHOOLQJ IRU business again and developing much needed revenue for the global economy.

Thank you for choosing Gama – welcome onboard.

Richard Lineveldt General Manager Gama Aviation

Contact details: charter.mena@gamaaviation.com gamaaviation.com - 13 -

GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation opens private aviation terminal at Sharjah International Airport

G

ama Aviation has opened its exclusive executive terminal (FBO) at Sharjah International Airport, creating a full service private aviation hub serving Sharjah, Dubai and the Northern Emirates. The facility at Sharjah International Airport is already performing above its target for weekly movements as operators and owners seek to cut the transit time of principles and crew to the Northern Emirates.

The new lounge facility complements Gama Aviation’s dedicated hangars, maintenance facilities and fuel services in Sharjah. Further development is to commence shortly with the construction of a new hangar which will incorporate an expanded

maintenance facility as well as a much needed increase in aircraft storage capacity.

Although last month marked the ceremonial opening of the facility, the lounge has been fully operational since mid-June. Feedback from principles, their HQWRXUDJHV DQG ÀLJKW FUHZ KDV EHHQ ³LQFUHGLEOH´ according to Richard Lineveldt, General Manager at *DPD $YLDWLRQ 0(1$ +H VDLG ³:H KDYH D ZRUOG FODVV product, with a great strategic location. Downtown 'XEDL LV D PHUH PLQXWHV DZD\ :H KDYH IHZ VORW or airways restrictions, facilitated by our strong relationship with Sharjah Aviation Authority and Sharjah Department of Civil Aviation. This translates LQWR WDQJLEOH FOLHQW EHQH¿WV SDUWLFXODUO\ VSHHG DQG SULYDF\ WKDW IHZ RWKHUV FDQ PDWFK ´ - 14 -

WITH US TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE From the moment you touch down at Gama’s Sharjah FBO you’ll know that time is working for you. On average, six minutes after you land you’ll be in your car and on your way. Only 10 minutes from Sharjah itself and a mere 20 minutes (or less*) from Dubai means you’ll be productive before others will have even picked up their bags.

Gama Aviation is the exclusive FBO provider at Sharjah, call us for all passenger services and aircraft handling on +971 6557 0177, email fbo.shj@gamaaviation.com or visit www.gamaaviation.com for more information *Helicopter transfers

available

• Aircraft & passenger arrival and departure services • Customs & Immigration preclearance services • Private Majlis and First Class lounges • Chauffeur and crew transport options available • Flight Planning Services • Hangar, Fuelling, Aircraft Parking & Maintenance services • Hotels at preferential rates • Car ramp access

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GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation targets China

Gama Aviation adds a Hawker 800XP to its Middle East charter fleet

‘Wheels Up’ Flying High Gama Charters has hired 100 pilots to support ongoing deliveries of Beechcraft King Air 350i aircraft ordered by private DYLDWLRQ PHPEHUVKLS FOXE :KHHOV 8S and plans to recruit 100 more as the WZLQ HQJLQH WXUERSURSV UROO R̆ WKH DVVHPEO\ OLQH LQ :LFKLWD *DPD &KDUWHUV the US subsidiary of Gama Aviation of Farnborough, UK, dry leases and serves DV H[FOXVLYH RSHUDWRU RI WKH :KHHOV Up-registered 350i aircraft for member Ă€LJKWV LQ WKH 86 1RUWKHDVW 6RXWKHDVW and Southwest.

Gama will also operate 10 Citation ;/6 PLG VL]H DLUFUDIW ZKLFK &HVVQD LV UHIXUELVKLQJ IRU :KHHOV 8S E\ \HDU HQG :KHHOV 8S H[SHFWV WR KDYH D ÀHHW RI aircraft by year-end, including 27 of the 105 King Air 350i models they ordered last year, the 10 Citation XLSs, and access to 15 larger-cabin aircraft through a partnership with Jet Aviation Fleet 6HUYLFHV :LWKLQ WKH QH[W GHFDGH WKH lineup could grow to 200 to 250 aircraft, DFFRUGLQJ WR .HQQ\ 'LFKWHU :KHHOV 8S founder and CEO. 'LFKWHU SUHGLFWHG WKDW :KHHOV 8S ZRXOG UHDFK ³XQLTXH LQGLYLGXDO´ members within 10 years, possibly as soon as six to seven years. Since enrolment began nine months ago,

:KHHOV 8S KDV VLJQHG XS DERXW members. $W D SUHVV EULH¿QJ DW WKH (%$&( business aviation conference in Geneva, 6ZLW]HUODQG *DPD &(2 0DUZDQ .KDOHN DQG 'LFKWHU UHḊUPHG WKHLU LQWHQW WR ODXQFK RSHUDWLRQV LQ (XURSH ³E\ QH[W VXPPHU´ PRVW OLNHO\ LQFOXGLQJ D EDVH LQ WKH /RQGRQ DUHD ³2QH \HDU IURP QRZ LV D JRRG WDUJHW ´ 'LFKWHU VDLG ³:HœOO KDYH D King Air 350i in the EBACE static display DUHD DQG UHY XS WKH PDUNHWLQJ DQG VDOHV ´ Khalek said Gama is hiring pilots on a pace with aircraft deliveries, which have reached 16 to date, training them at FlightSafety International. Recruitment is in the vicinity of operations bases at 7HWHUERUR 1 - :HVW 3DOP %HDFK )OD and Van Nuys, Calif. Gama Charter SUHVLGHQW 7RP &RQQHOO\ VDLG ³:HœUH getting more resumes than we thought ZHœG JHW LQFOXGLQJ H[SHULHQFHG SLORWV ´ 'LFKWHU VDLG :KHHOV 8S WRJHWKHU ZLWK %HHFKFUDIW ³ZHQW WKURXJK DQ H[KDXVWLYH SURFHVV´ LQ VHDUFK RI DQ RSHUDWRU WR PDQDJH DLUFUDIW RSHUDWLRQV ³:H QHHGHG a partner who was going to be scalable and had the vision to broaden the DYLDWLRQ S\UDPLG ´ +H ODXGHG *DPDœV ³HQWUHSUHQHXULDO VSLULW DQG DWWHQWLRQ WR GHWDLO´ - 16 -

Marwan Khalek, group CEO of LondonKHDGTXDUWHUHG *DPD Aviation, sees China as the next growth opportunity for his global charter and management company. ³:H KDYH D WZR SURQJHG VWUDWHJ\ IRU WKH UHJLRQ ´ Khalek told reporters at $%$&( ³2QH LV RXU Hong Kong operation [established in 2012] and one is Mainland China, and we’re making good SURJUHVV RQ ERWK ´ 7KH company has signed a business cooperation agreement with a Beijing entity that would open the way for a China base, he said. Khalek added that Gama expects to make a formal announcement about the deal by the HQG RI WKLV \HDU ³7KH cake is in the oven and EDNLQJ ´ However, the Chinese market for business DLUFUDIW IDFHV VLJQL¿FDQW challenges, Khalek said. ³7KH FRQVWUDLQW RI JURZWK in the region at the moment is not demand, it’s [the lack of] infrastructure WR VHUYLFH WKDW GHPDQG ´ As for hopes of loosening the current strictures on private aviation activity .KDOHN VDLG ³7KH EHQH¿WV of business aviation are becoming more recognised in the region. They’re understanding it’s about SURGXFWLYLW\ QRW OX[XU\ ´

An island of blissful experiences awaits your

arrival

Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Sahel Villa Resort

Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara

Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Yamm Villa Resort

Just off the coast of Abu Dhabi, Sir Bani Yas Island is a unique island retreat, long known for its natural and rugged beauty. Be inspired by a range of outdoor activities at Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara. Immerse yourself in Arabian traditions as you enjoy views of the beachfront and lagoons at Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Yamm Villa Resort, or catch sight of bountiful free-roaming animals while trekking to or from the extraordinary Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Sahel Villa Resort.

Rates start from AED 950* per night including breakfast

Embark on a journey rich with discovery at anantara.com Call +971 (0)2 656 1399 or crome@anantara.com

United Arab Emirates • Cambodia • China • Indonesia • Maldives • Mozambique • Thailand • Vietnam

*Rates are subject to 10% service charge and 6% tourism fee. Conditions apply. Rate quoted is for stays at Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara.

RADAR > Russell James has had a career that would be the envy of any photographer – Vogue, Sports Illustrated and GQ are among his clients – but he is perhaps best known for his long-term work shooting the Victoria’s Secret models. His work with the brand is collected in a stunning new hardback titled Angels, released this month. The beguiling way that James captures the essence of beauties like Gisele Bündchen and Brooklyn Decker, right, is explored in this compendium of physical beauty and technical perfection, along with quotes from the photographer and the models that make his work come to life. teNeues

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© Angels by Russell James, to be published by teNeues in September 2014, www.teneues.com.

Brooklyn Decker, Necker Island, 2009, Photo © 2014 Russell James. All rights reserved.

CRITIQUE

Film The Green Prince

Dir: Nadav Schirman 7KLV GRFXPHQWDU\ UHFRXQWV WKH WUXH VWRU\ RI D +DPDV DFWLYLVW ZKR VSLHG IRU WKH ,VUDHOLV DQG WKH 6KLQ %HW DJHQW ZKR ULVNHG KLV FDUHHU WR SURWHFW KLP AT BEST: ³$V JULSSLQJ DV DQ\ KLJK FRQFHSW +ROO\ZRRG WKULOOHU DQG DV SV\FKRORJLFDOO\ NQRWW\ DV *UHHN WUDJHG\ ´ The Guardian AT WORST: ³$Q H[WUDRUGLQDULO\ HQJURVVLQJ WDOH EHFRPHV DQ H[WUHPHO\ XQFLQHPDWLF H[SHULHQFH LQ WKH KDQGV RI ,VUDHOL GRFXPHQWDULDQ 1DGDY 6FKLUPDQ ´ Variety

Honeymoon

Dir: Leigh Janiak $IWHU ¿QGLQJ KLV QHZ ZLIH VOHHSZDONLQJ LQ WKH ZRRGV GXULQJ WKHLU KRQH\PRRQ D KXVEDQG EHJLQV WR VXVSHFW VRPHWKLQJ PRUH VLQLVWHU WRRN SODFH DV KHU EHKDYLRXU EHFRPHV LQFUHDVLQJO\ SHFXOLDU AT BEST: ³>,W¶V@ FUHHS\ DV KHOO WKH NLQG RI PRYLH WKDW ZRUPV LWV ZD\ XQGHUQHDWK \RXU VNLQ DQG VLWV WKHUH ´ The Playlist AT WORST: ³$ ÀDW DQG IRUJHWWDEOH JHQUH H[HUFLVH WKDW VHHPV OHVV VXEVWDQWLDO WKDQ WKH ORZ EXGJHW µ V VFL ¿HUV LW UHFDOOV ´ Variety

The Skeleton Twins

20,000 Days on Earth

Dir: Craig Johnson :KHQ HVWUDQJHG WZLQV 0DJJLH DQG 0LOR IHHO WKH\¶UH DW WKH HQG RI WKHLU URSHV DQ XQH[SHFWHG UHXQLRQ IRUFHV WKHP WR FRQIURQW ZK\ WKHLU OLYHV ZHQW VR ZURQJ AT BEST: ³&DXVWLFDOO\ ZU\ DQG FOR\LQJO\ VHQWLPHQWDO 7KH 6NHOHWRQ 7ZLQV LV D FURZG SOHDVHU ´ Screen International AT WORST: ³,W PD\ QRW DOZD\V ZRUN DV D GUDPD EXW >LW@ SURYHV WR EH D ¿QH VKRZFDVH IRU .ULVWHQ :LLJ DQG %LOO +DGHU VKRZLQJ WKH\ DUH ERWK FDSDEOH RI GUDPDWLF PDWHULDO ´ The Playlist

Dir: Ian Forsyth, Jane Pollard 'UDPD DQG UHDOLW\ FRPELQH LQ D ¿FWLWLRXV KRXUV LQ WKH OLIH RI PXVLFLDQ DQG LQWHUQDWLRQDO FXOWXUDO LFRQ 1LFN &DYH 7KH ¿OP H[DPLQHV ZKDW PDNHV XV ZKR ZH DUH DQG FHOHEUDWHV WKH WUDQVIRUPDWLYH SRZHU RI WKH FUHDWLYH VSLULW AT BEST: ³>,W¶V@ PLVFKLHYRXV DQG PDJQL¿FHQW OLNH WKH PDQ KLPVHOI ´ 4XLFNÀL[ AT WORST: ³7KHUH¶V QRWKLQJ H[WUDRUGLQDU\ DERXW LW EXW LW¶V DQ HQWHUWDLQLQJ FXULR ´ The Guardian

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CRITIQUE

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CRITIQUE

Art

Formerly a lightning rod for controversy, the Turner Prize has been celebrating modern artists for 30 years – usually the further the envelope is pushed, the better. Originally intended, when founded in 1984, to promote public discussion of new developments in contemporary British art, The Turner Prize 2014 is presented at London’s Tate Britain from September 30 to January 4 2015, with the winner announced on December 1. This year’s nominated artists are Duncan Campbell, Ciara Phillips, James Richards and Tris Vonna-Mitchell. Though arguably lacking the shock factor of previous years – who could forget Tracey Emin’s My Bed in 1999, or even Damien Hirst’s shocking 1992 piece of a tiger shark encased in formaldehyde – this year’s nominees nonetheless represent everything vibrant about modern art in the UK today – and their relatively unknown status (compared to Emin and Hirst) can be seen as controversial in itself.

Ciara Phillips has been described by 0RLUD -H̆UH\ LQ 7KH 6FRWVPDQ DV “a brilliant print maker who imbues the medium with a freshness that is remarkable, in posters, prints and textiles”, while Duncan Campbell’s chopped together documentaries have been reviewed by the Guardian,

who said: “Whether he’s making protean portraits of players or politicians, Campbell’s constant is the problem of navigating the past itself.”

As city-dwellers, we occasionally take for granted the built-up world in which we live.

At London’s Barbican Theatre, a new exhibition titled Constructing Worlds: Photography and Architecture in the Modern Age brings together 18 exceptional photographers from the 1930s to today, who have changed the way we view architecture and perceive the world around us. Combining the photography of Berenice Abbot, Hilla Becher, Stephen Shore and Julius Shulman with the work of iconic architects like Le Corbusier, Charles and Ray Eames and Frank Lloyd Wright, this important exhibition takes visitors on a journey past New York’s skyscrapers, decaying colonial structures in the Congo and the modern towers of Venezuela. Jane Allison, head of Visual Arts at the Barbican says: “Photography and architecture have a long and shared history and yet DPD]LQJO\ WKLV LV WKH ¿UVW PDMRU exhibition in London to throw light on this relationship.” Metalocus magazine praises the exhibitors’ achievement, and says the display is adept at “providing layers of narrative and injecting ancillary meaning to the physical space, WKHVH SKRWRJUDSKV R̆HU D ZD\ of understanding the architect’s intentions in relation to the lived - 24 -

reality”. Constructing Worlds: Photography and Architecture in the Modern Age runs from September 25 to January 11, 2015.

An exciting opportunity to view rare treasures that, due to their sensitivity to light, are rarely shown is the In Miniature exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, running from August 29 to December 31. The exhibition comprises two groups of portrait miniatures: British, from the 16th and early 17th centuries; and French, from the revolutionary period to the Empire. Also included

that will be sure to interest anyone with an interest in European history, are several French gold boxes dating to the 18th century, and decorated with intricate narratives. In order to contrast with the miniatures, six larger paintings from the same era will also be exhibited in order to draw comparisons on how they may VKDUH DWWULEXWHV RU GL̆HU IURP HDFK other. here are sure to be plenty of talking points.

CRITIQUE

Theatre ,Q /RQGRQ WKH FULWLFV XQLIRUPO\ DJUHH WKDW WKH PXFK anticipated new production of A Streetcar Named Desire at the Young Vic is a resounding success.

Directed by Australian Benedict Andrews and starring American actress Gillian Anderson of The X-Files fame, Tennessee Williams’s Pulitzer-prize winning 1947 play tells the story of fading Southern belle, Blanche DuBois (Anderson), who has fallen on hard times and comes to live with her sister Stella and Stella’s volatile working-class husband Stanley. Gradually Blanche’s pretensions begin to unravel and she descends into a world of delusion. Charles Spencer in the Telegraph declares the production “an absolute knockoutâ€?, adding: Âł1HYHU KDYH , VHHQ D SURGXFWLRQ RI WKH SOD\ WKDW ZDV VR raw in its emotion, so violent and so deeply upsetting.â€?

Anderson gives “a stellar performance�, says Michael Billington in The Guardian. “[She] captures both Blanche’s airy pretensions to grandeur and her desolate loneliness.� Although he feels that Andrews gives the play a radical new twist by keeping the acting space in perpetual motion on a revolving stage, “the shifting

focus sometimes becomes a distraction and makes the dialogue hard to hear�. Henry Hitchings in the Evening Standard agrees. Anderson is “electrifying� and “simply unmissable�, he writes. He agrees that the production is “gripping and disorientating� and makes the audience work hard, but feels Andrews’ direction “is admirably thoughtful and bold�. Until September 19.

An ambitious new trilogy of history plays that FRYHU WKH OLWWOH NQRZQ UHLJQV RI WKH ¿UVW WKUHH -DPHV Stewart kings, who ruled Scotland in the middle of the tumultuous 15th century, are some of the most interesting productions to emerge from last month’s (GLQEXUJK )HVWLYDO -DPHV , ,, DQG ,,, WUDQVIHU WR WKH National Theatre in London from September 10. Written

by Rona Munro and directed by Laurie Sansom, each of the plays runs for two-and-a-half hours and “can stand FRQÂżGHQWO\ DORQH EXW WDNHQ WRJHWKHU KDYH D VFDOH DQG reach that is thrilling and satisfying in equal measuresâ€?, ZULWHV $QQD %XUQVLGH RI 7KH ,QGHSHQGHQW :KLOH VKH has a few minor quibbles, the plays serve up plenty of “food for thought,â€? addressing issues of “politics, national identity, the strength of family ties, the desirability of having every waking moment accompanied by a madrigalâ€?. Until October 28.

Meanwhile, a new musical from Sting is set to premier at the Neil Simon Theatre on Broadway this month, after a pre-Broadway run in Chicago. Stemming from Sting’s own memories of growing up near Newcastle in the north east of England, The Last Ship tells the story of a struggling shipyard and the workers who help construct these titanic triumphs of man’s mechanical and creative genius. Âł,Q PDQ\ PRPHQWV WKH SURGXFWLRQ provides rare pleasures: the musical as deep, personal artistic expression,â€? says Steven Oxman in Variety. But the entwined narratives of a love triangle and a crusade to build one last ship “never cohere into D VDWLVI\LQJ ZKROH´ &KULV -RQHV RI the Chicago Tribune says the show is a symbolic,unabashedly ironyfree (and narrator-free) musicalâ€? adding: “Sting has proven that his formidable narrative songwriting skills can translate to the Broadway stage.â€? From September 29 until March 2015.

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You can seek the help of one doctor.

Or you can turn to Mayo Clinic.

At Mayo Clinic, a team of experts works together for you. No wonder Mayo Clinic’s collective knowledge and innovative treatments have been a shining light to millions around the world. Visit mayoclinic.org or mayoclinic.org/arabic to learn more.

ROCHE STE R, M I N NE SOTA, U SA

| P HOE NI X /SCOTTSDALE , ARI ZONA, U SA |

JACK SONVI LLE , FLORIDA, U SA

T

owards the end of the 1960s, 22-yearold English actress Jane Birkin met Serge Gainsbourg, a French actor nearly WZLFH KHU DJH RQ WKH VHW RI WKH ÂżOP Slogan in Paris. He was fresh from a break-up with Brigitte Bardot; she was nursing a broken heart after the end of her marriage to James Bond composer John Barry.

After a shaky start – Jane thought him arrogant and snobbish but soon realised he was actually quite shy – they fell madly in love and spent the next 12 years in a headstrong, often volatile, romance. Their union would produce not only hit records, including the steamy Je t’aime‌ moi non plus, which was denounced by the Vatican and banned by the BBC, but also a daughter, Charlotte, now an acclaimed actress.

Gainsbourg would go on to become one of France’s most adored cultural icons, whose funeral in 1991 brought Paris to a standstill. Jane, meanwhile, would become a style

icon – with a Hermès bag named in her honour – and a much-loved national treasure in her adopted homeland. “For the French, Serge is ÂżUVW DQG IRUHPRVW D SRHW LQ WKH VDPH league as Baudelaire and Rimbaud.

So it appeared to be a very unique attraction of opposites and it was, actually,� says Andrew Birkin, Jane’s brother.

Birkin got his own big break while working as the tea boy on the set of Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey in England. The director ZDV IUXVWUDWHG WKDW WKH ¿OP FUHZ FRXOGQœW ¿QG D GHVHUW OLNH ORFDWLRQ he could use for the opening scene of the dawn of man, when Birkin piped up that he knew where to ¿QG RQH .XEULFN GLVSDWFKHG KLP to photograph the landscape and, impressed with the results, then sent him to Technicolor to learn about VSHFLDO H̆HFWV DQG SKRWRJUDSK\ ³+H was wonderful, unique almost as directors go, as he really would listen to what ideas you had, even though you were the tea boy,� he says.

In 1968, Birkin was based

in Paris scouting locations for .XEULFNÂśV QH[W SURMHFW D ÂżOP DERXW Napoleon. “I was taking about 15,000 photographs for him of places Napoleon had been, with the view to using them as front SURMHFWLRQ LQ WKH ÂżOP ´ $W WKH same time, Jane was also in the )UHQFK FDSLWDO ÂżOPLQJ 6ORJDQ ZLWK Gainsbourg. Birkin instantly hit it R̆ ZLWK KLV VLVWHUÂśV QHZ ORYHU Âł$V IRU ÂżUVW LPSUHVVLRQV IURP P\ SRLQW RI YLHZ LW ZDV ORYH DW ÂżUVW VLJKW ´ he says. Serge couldn’t be more GL̆HUHQW IURP -DQHÂśV ÂżUVW KXVEDQG “John Barry was 20 years older than her and a dour Yorkshireman.

But Serge, even though he was also 20 years older, had a completely GL̆HUHQW WHPSHUDPHQW RVFLOODWLQJ between wild exuberance and black melancholy. He had that exhibitionist streak in him that most artists have and loved to shock people. But he could also be a deep, deep soul.�

Birkin started photographing the pair, often with the same cameras he was using for Kubrick’s project

B ¡ O ¡H ¡E ¡M ¡I ¡A ¡ N

RHAPSODY Ahead of a new exhibition of his personal photographs of Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg, AIR talks to filmmaker Andrew Birkin about the couple’s enigmatic appeal

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Jane & Serge in front of the Bodleian, Oxford, August 8, 1969. Š Andrew Birkin.

ART & DESIGN

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ART & DESIGN

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Andrew and Jane, April 12, 1964. Š Andrew Birkin.

ART & DESIGN

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Jane Birkin, Paris December 7, 1972. Š Andrew Birkin.

so the reels were shipped back to Britain. “I remember Kubrick would occasionally say, ‘what are these photographs of your girlfriend doing in here? You’re meant to be taking photographs for me,’� Birkin laughs. Visiting Jane and Serge on a regular basis throughout the ‘70s, he amassed hundreds of intimate snaps of the couple’s bohemian life with Jane’s daughter Kate, from her marriage to Barry, and Charlotte. “I didn’t have a family of my own at this stage, so I would hang out with them, especially if I had a break between movies. I never felt that it

was ‘two’s company, three’s a crowd’.

Because Serge and I were like a couple of schoolboys really, and Jane is just a year younger than me so we’ve always been very close.�

The public was fascinated with the English Rose and heavy-drinking, charismatic artist. “I don’t know of another relationship that was similar [in terms of public interest].

Of course, you’ve got Beckham, but somehow a footballer is not the same as a poet,� he says. “I suppose to outsiders there was this element of beauty and the beast, Jane having been to girls’ boarding school and

The ex-lovers remained close and Jane continued to record albums of Gainsbourg’s lyrics. “Serge wrote some of the best songs that he ever wrote for Jane after they had technically broken up. And he remained a part of the family until he died. Even though he took up with [French actress] Bambou and they had a baby together, never a week went by when Jane and Serge didn’t meet or talk at least. So, in a sense, it didn’t really end, it just changed.�

Charlotte, meanwhile, has kept her father’s Paris house almost exactly as he left it – crammed

‘The public was fascinated with the English Rose and heavy-drinking, charismatic artist’ the press presenting our parents as rather conventional, when in fact they weren’t at all,� says Birkin.

The couple eventually split in 1980 as Gainsbourg’s heavy drinking took its toll on their relationship. “Serge was becoming increasingly alcoholic and it just gets rather boring if you’re living with someone who is an alcoholic. And, at the same time, Jane was being wooed E\ ÂżOP GLUHFWRU -DFTXHV 'RLOORQ and I suppose Serge was running out of steam,â€? says Birkin. Jane and 'RLOORQ KDG D GDXJKWHU /RX LQ who is also an actress and singer.

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with mementos of his poetic, sometimes scandalous life. “Jane’s never been back in it and doesn’t want to because it evokes too many memories for her. She was totally distraught when Serge died and sort of rather blamed herself I think, that if she’d been around she could have SUHYHQWHG KLP GULQNLQJ TXLWH VR much and smoking himself to death.

But, in point of fact, nobody could have done,� he says. She separated IURP 'RLOORQ ZKR FRXOG QRW FRPSHWH with her grief for Gainsbourg, and has lived alone ever since.

Now, more than 30 years since his sister and Gainsbourg split, Birkin’s photos of their life together are being displayed in a new exhibition DW /RQGRQÂśV 3URXG *DOOHULHV Which photo does he feel captures the essence of their relationship? “There’s one of them in the back of a taxi where Serge is kissing Jane goodbye. Jane is looking slightly VWDQGṘVK DQG SOD\LQJ D OLWWOH hard-to-get and Serge’s wonderful QRVH LV LQ SURÂżOH ´ VD\V %LUNLQ Âł,W was a relationship that was, perhaps like the best of relationships, never entirely stable, yet they deeply loved each other.â€?

Jane and Serge by Andrew Birkin, Proud Chelsea, September 11 October 26 2014, proud.co.uk

TIMEPIECES

TARIQ MALIK

Graves Situation

Sotheby’s announces plans to auction the most expensive watch in the world For collectors, there are a number of factors at play when considering the value of a watch: brand, model, condition, rarity, and provenance.

Provenance relates to the specific history of a watch, for example,

whether it was worn by a certain individual (think Paul Newman and his personal Rolex Daytona). And when it comes to provenance, it doesn’t get much more special than a Henry Graves Jr. watch.

Henry Graves Jr. was, along with James Packard, the foremost collector of fine watches in the 20th century, of which the 1920s and ‘30s were his most active and well known periods. Born into a wealthy banking dynasty, his legacy is further explored through a book dedicated to his personality, his rivalry with James Packard and his taste for expensive watches (the Grand Complication

by Stacey Perman). Graves was a well-respected member of New York society, but preferred to keep a low profile. However, he remains best known for his watch collection and is credited with helping to save Patek Philippe during its most difficult days by commissioning complicated timepieces. His timepieces were engraved with the Graves’ family emblem ‘esse quam videri’ – to be rather than to appear – a fitting

description of this character. The major auction houses compete ferociously for the right to sell a Graves watch.

Last month, Sotheby’s announced that it has won the battle to auction the Henry Graves Patek Philippe Supercomplication, a unique piece commissioned by Graves in 1925, at its Geneva auction in November 2014. Sotheby’s first sold the timepiece in New York in December 1999. At the time, the initial estimate was US$3m-US$5m, but a bidding war ensued with the hammer finally coming down at a record breaking US$11m, easily setting a new record for a watch. This record remains today, with the next most expensive being a Patek Philippe moonphase wristwatch sold by Christies in May 2010 for US$5.7m, nearly half the Graves Supercomplication.

Graves requested “the most complicated watch in the world”.

Patek Philippe was undaunted by the challenge. It required three years of design and five years of effort to finally deliver the timepiece in 1933.

In total, 430 screws, 110 wheels, 120 various movable parts, and 70 jewels combined to produce 24 complications; including chronograph, minute-repeater with Westminster chimes, perpetual calendar, power reserve, sunrise and sunset times for New York City, and a celestial chart showing the constellation of stars in the sky above his Ohio home.

Weighing over 0.5kg, the watch remained the most complicated watch for over 50 years, eventually surpassed by the Patek Caliber 89 and its 33 complications, which was only made possible through computer assisted machines.

Although November’s auction is still some way off, the excitement within the watch community is already tangible.

Tariq Malik is co-founder of Momentum, the UAE’s first and only vintage watch boutique. momentumdubai.com

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TIMEPIECES Words: Richard Jenkins

The Kingsman’s English Bremont were called upon to provide timepieces for Matthew Vaughn’s latest blockbuster. AIR speaks with the company’s co-founder, Nick English

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A

super-secret, ultra-suave British spy with a penchant for luxury goods.

You’d be forgiven for imagining James %RQG EXW VSULQJ VHHV WKH ¿OP debut of a new breed of agents. Colin Firth stars in Kingsman: The Secret Service, in which his trained secret agent takes a young street hood under his wing and moulds him into an elite recruit. So far, so action-movie standard. What sets Kingsman apart is its attention to detail; even as far as the timepieces the agents wear – which is where Bremont comes in.

When director Matthew Vaughn was thinking about which brand of watch would be perfect for his Kingsmen, Bremont and its military heritage was the obvious candidate. The brand’s co-founder, Nick (QJOLVK WHOOV $,5 ³>7KH ¿OP LV@ VR %ULWLVK ,WœV DOO about these elite secret agents, archetypal British gents with their suits and cars. The watch actually forms a pretty decent part of the movie in terms of what it does.

0DWWKHZ 9DXJKQ WKRXJKW DERXW LW TXLWH VLJQL¿FDQWO\ he’s a bit of a watch guy anyway and loves his vintage watches. He decided if there was a British brand that suited their purpose then that would be great. So he knew of Bremont and he knew of our military ties and the fact that we do a few cool things with squadrons throughout the world, and that appealed to him. They’re also all made in the UK; we had all the prerequisites he wanted. He was involved in developing this watch and I think everyone’s pretty happy with it.�

Bremont’s military heritage stood it in good stead when it came to selection by Vaughn, and Nick is happy to talk about it. He says: “We do a lot of Special Forces around the world, the UK and the US and elsewhere.

We do the Royal Marine Commandos, the pilots – F15, F16, Apache and Chinook helicopters – we do hundreds of pieces around the world. If a watch has got proper

military credibility it means a lot more. It’s used by Navy divers, they’re proper tools. That’s the thing to get across. It’s a secret agent’s tool.�

There are two types of watch provided by Bremont: RQH WKDW WKH IXOO\ Ă€HGJHG PHPEHUV GRQ DQG RQH WKDW the recruits wear during training. “Matthew very much wanted a chronograph, chronographs always look a bit more gadget-like,â€? recalls Nick. “The watch that the trainee recruits wear is very black and stealth like on a NATO band. And the Kingsmen themselves wear a rose gold version on an alligator strap which has a lot of hidden powers. I can’t say too much as it gives away too much of the plot, but think James Bond. They do some quite cool things,â€? he says coyly.

The watches aren’t just being made for the movie.

Bremont is producing a limited edition run that will be on sale in Bremont boutiques and on MR PORTER.COM. So will the real watches also have special powers? “Oh QR ´ 1LFN FKXFNOHV Âł7KHUHÂśV D ZKROH SOHWKRUD RI VWX̆ WKH\ FDQ GR LQ WKH ÂżOP Âą ZLWK WKH DGGLWLRQ RI VSHFLDO H̆HFWV Âą WKDW WKH RQ VDOH RQHV ZRQÂśW GR %XW LQ WHUPV of look and feel they’re pretty much identical. We’re changing a couple of details on the dial and the hands to make them slightly more commercial. To all intents and purposes though, they’re exactly the same.â€?

One thing that will make these timepieces special is their rarity. English says: “It’s a limited edition of a few pieces each. The gold is 100 pieces, and the black model is 500 pieces. So they’re very exclusive, and that’s the nice thing about it. We’re not trying to do a James Bond limited edition of 10,007 pieces.�

7KH RQO\ WKLQJ OHIW WR DVN LV KRZ &ROLQ )LUWK WKH ÂżOPÂśV gentlemanly lead, felt about the watch. “He very much loved it,â€? says English. “I think everyone liked the fact that they are very British, made in the UK our own way. I think that means a lot. I think if you’re playing a %ULWLVK VHFUHW DJHQW WKH PRUH %ULWLVK VWX̆ \RX KDYH WKH better.“ The Kingsmen would agree.

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Dubai Mall | Dubai Marina Mall | Mall of the Emirates | Wafi | Gold Souk

JEWELLERY

ONCE UPON A TIME‌ Inspired by a 17th-century French fairy tale, Van Cleef & Arpels’ new High Jewellery collection may just be its most romantic yet

R

enowned for its dreamlike jewels and poetic timepieces, the world of imagination and myth has long been a rich source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels.

Over the decades, the French jeweller has introduced unicorns, dragons and phoenixes into its collections and drawn upon ancient tales, such as the lost kingdom of Atlantis. For its latest high jewellery collection, Peau d’Âne racontÊ par Van Cleef & Arpels, the luxury maison has used one of France’s best-loved fairy tales as its muse.

First published in 1694, Peau d’Âne tells the story of a runaway princess, an emerald ring and a handsome prince. After the prince ¿QGV WKH SULQFHVVœV ULQJ LQ D FDNH

she bakes for him, he declares that he will marry only the woman ZKRVH ¿QJHU LW ¿WV ZKLFK RI FRXUVH turns out to be the princess, Peau d’Âne. Written entirely in verse

by Charles Perrault, the tale was later added to the Contes de ma mère l’Oye collection, which also included La Belle au Bois dormant (Sleeping Beauty), Le Petit Chaperon rouge (Little Red Riding Hood) and Cendrillon (Cinderella). Far from EHLQJ FRQ¿QHG WR WKH SDJHV RI D storybook, in 1970 French director -DFTXHV 'HP\ PDGH D ¿OP VWDUULQJ Jean Marais and Catherine Deneuve, which reignited the public’s love D̆DLU ZLWK WKLV OLWHUDU\ FODVVLF Now, for its own bejewelled homage to the famous fairy tale, Van Cleef & Arpels has combined Pierres de Caractère gems, prized for their clarity, intense colour or the distinct - 40 -

charm of their old-style cuts, with several of its favourite themes.

The collection features a vibrant palette of diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, pearls and coral, along with the winged silhouettes of the jeweller’s signature fairy clips.

First introduced in the 1940s, these IHPLQLQH ÂżJXUHV ZLWK WKHLU URVH cut diamond faces, magic wands or headdresses of precious stones, soon captivated collectors and became a hallmark of the maison.

7KH SLHFHV UHÀHFW NH\ SHULRGV RI the fairy tale, from the princess’s happy childhood, growing up at the castle with her father and mother at her side; to the enchanted forest to which she escapes after her father, consumed by grief at the death of the queen, develops a strange madness; and the eventual marriage of Peau d’Âne and her prince, a

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JEWELLERY

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‘The prince holds a 2.25-carat emerald ring before his heart’

happy celebration that also sees her reunited with her father, who, this being a fairy tale, has also made a full recovery.

Highlights of the collection include three clips devoted to Peau d’Âne’s dresses, illustrating the couture theme that Van Cleef & Arpels has been interpreting for over a century, along with its famously delicate IHPDOH ¿JXUHV 7KH 5REH &RXOHXU de la Lune clip features round and rose-cut diamonds, baguette-cut sapphires, blue spinels, turquoise, blue and mauve tanzanites and sapphires set in white gold, while the Robe Couleur du Soleil clip features round, oval-cut and rosecut diamonds, spessartite garnets, yellow tourmalines and sapphires set in white and yellow gold. The third clip, the Robe Couleur du Temps clip, has round and rose-cut diamonds, turquoise, Paraíba-like tourmalines and green garnets set in white gold. The matching set comprises a necklace, drop earrings and ring with GL̆HUHQW VKDGHV RI VDSSKLUHV DQG tourmalines, inspired by the skycoloured dress given to the princess by her father.

Peau d’Âne is not the only character immortalised in precious metal and gemstones. Paying tribute to one of the tale’s major characters, the

Prince Rouge clip is among the rare PDVFXOLQH ¿JXUHV FUHDWHG E\ 9DQ Cleef & Arpels. Featuring pink and purple sapphires, red coral, round, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds set in white and pink gold, the ÀDPER\DQW FRVWXPH UHTXLUHG JUHDW precision when it came to carving, stone cutting and setting. The prince holds a 2.25-carat emerald before his heart, in honour of the ring that brought them together, making this one of the collection’s most romantic pieces.

Ever true to the fairy tale, emerald rings also star in the collection. The Amour, Amour ring is crowned with a Zambian emerald, notable both for

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its weight (28.06 carats) and for the unusual charm of its button-shaped cabochon, while its even green colour symbolises the princess’s hopeful dreams of love. Meanwhile, the emerald ring the princess drops into the cake – an act of clumsiness WKDW HQDEOHV WKH SULQFH WR ¿QG KHU again – inspires the Gâteau d’amour ring. A 4.48-carat stone crowns a generous spiral of diamonds, whose gradation from white to brown HYRNHV WKH ÀDYRXUV RI WKH FDNH ZKLOH bringing out the intensity of the green.

One of the major pieces in the collection is the Émeraude en Majesté necklace. The stunning sparkler features an exceptional batch of 29 sought-after Colombian emeralds, weighing a total of 195.11 carats, along with round, squarecut, baguette-cut, half-moon cut and pear-shaped diamonds set in white gold. In keeping with its tradition for transformable pieces, Van Cleef $USHOV KDV LPDJLQHG ¿YH ZD\V RI wearing the necklace, combining one or two rows of stones with the detachable central motif and jewelencrusted clasp to suit every mood.

And like all good fairy tales, you’re destined to live happily ever after with whichever piece you choose from this exquisite collection.

INTERIORS

Words: LARA BRUNT

Designer décor As more fashion labels dip their toes into interior design, AIR chats to Christian Lacroix’s Sacha Walckhoff on the challenges of cushions vs. couture

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W

hen Anna Wintour remarked, “I’ve long believed that the eye runs naturally from the catwalk to the kitchen”, it seems she wasn’t alone.

Not content with creating multiple catwalk collections each year, many luxury fashion labels have branched out into interiors with their own home collections, hotel design projects and, increasingly, branded hotels.

Missoni, Ralph Lauren and Versace were among the ¿UVW IDVKLRQ KRXVHV WR PRYH LQWR KRPHZDUHV $UPDQL Casa, founded in 2000 by Giorgio Armani, is another crossover success. The collection ranges from furniture and fabrics to lighting and kitchen systems, along with several branded residential properties, such as World Towers in Mumbai, and two Armani hotels, in Dubai and Milan, both joint ventures with Emaar Properties. New IRU DUH WKH EUDQG¶V ¿UVW ZDOOSDSHU FROOHFWLRQ DQG LWV debut US residence in Miami.

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INTERIORS Interestingly, Armani says his fashion and home FROOHFWLRQV LQÀXHQFH HDFK RWKHU ³7KHUH DUH IDEULFV DQG FRORXUV DQG ¿QLVKHV ZKLFK , XVH LQ P\ IDVKLRQ FROOHFWLRQV ZKLFK ¿QG HTXLYDOHQW H[SUHVVLRQ LQ WKH $UPDQL &DVD UDQJH EXW HTXDOO\ LGHDV , ZLOO EH ZRUNLQJ RQ IRU P\ LQWHULRUV DQG IXUQLVKLQJV PD\ LQÀXHQFH P\ clothing designs,� he told Wallpaper magazine.

2QH IDVKLRQ KRXVH GRLQJ WKLQJV D OLWWOH GL̆HUHQWO\ LV Maison Martin Margiela, which has famously remained a faceless design collective since its Belgian founder departed in 2009. The spring 2014 couture collection featured dresses, jumpsuits and jackets made from home furnishing fabrics, curtains and carpets. While print, other than trompe l’oeil, hasn’t featured much in previous catwalk collections, the collection was a ULRW RI EROG JHRPHWULF SDWWHUQV DQG FRORXUIXO ÀRUDOV $ SUHFXUVRU SHUKDSV WR LWV ¿UVW IRUD\ LQWR ZDOOFRYHULQJV" 7KH ODEHO KDV FUHDWHG D UDQJH RI ¿YH ZDOOSDSHUV IRU Belgian brand Omexco featuring trompe l’oeil, optical illusions and reinterpreted motifs, adding to its line of avant-garde home accessories.

For other labels, though, lucrative interiors have become their lifeblood. Christian Lacroix, the eponymous French fashion house founded in 1987, was, by 2009, on the brink of bankruptcy. A radical restructure saw haute couture and prêt-à -porter scrapped; menswear was salvaged, but the brand would continue solely as a licensing operation, working with manufacturing and distribution partners to produce accessories and perfume. The couturier left – although his name remained – and fellow Frenchman Sacha :DOFNKR̆ ZKR MRLQHG WKH KRXVH LQ ZDV DSSRLQWHG creative director.

While many in the industry lament the loss of Lacroix’s fantastical couture creations, focusing on WKH PRUH SURÂżWDEOH KRPH LQWHULRUV PDUNHW ÂłKDV EHHQ a strong move for the Lacroix house and amazingly VXFFHVVIXO´ VD\V :DOFNKR̆ ,Q WKH KRXVH ODXQFKHG LWV ÂżUVW &KULVWLDQ /DFURL[ 0DLVRQ FROOHFWLRQ with Designers Guild. The leap from womenswear to wallpaper, he says, is not as large as one may think. “Some brands are [turning their talents to interior design] because it is a new territory to explore after the fashion one. Others, like us with Christian Lacroix Maison, are attracted to it because it is totally linked to their DNA,â€? he says. “The House of Lacroix has made its fame because of its bold colours and dramatic patterns.

So it made sense to us to go for interior dÊcor.�

Collaborating with Designers Guild was crucial to the fashion house’s credibility. “Tricia Guild has been one of WKH ÂżJXUHV RI LQWHUQDWLRQDO KRPH GpFRU IRU D IHZ GHFDGHV now and her thoughts on our ideas made us immediately XQGHUVWDQGDEOH E\ WKH GHFRUDWLRQ ZRUOG ´ :DOFNKR̆ says. “You have to think big: a pattern might be great for a skirt but will be invisible on a curtain. Tricia helped me a lot with proportions and also with the editing RI WKH FROOHFWLRQV ´ :DOFNKR̆ IHHOV GHVLJQHUV FDQ EH - 46 -

HOME COUTURE Sacha Walckhoff’s tips for styling a home

Think about the dĂŠcor for the whole space, not one room after the other

The entrance should be strong, dramatic and eye-catching

Do not follow rules. Your home should be a reflection of the inner you

‘Think big: A pattern might be great for a skirt but will be invisible on a curtain’ much more creative with interiors than with clothes, as people are more willing to take risks in their home. “I am always saying that it is easier to sell multi-coloured Ă€RZHUV RQ D FXVKLRQ WKDQ RQ D MDFNHW ´ KH VD\V The synergy between fashion and interior design is plain to see in the label’s 2014 Atelier fabric collection – not least from the styling, with swatches and cushions SLQQHG WR GUHVVPDNHUVÂś PDQQHTXLQV &RPSULVLQJ EROG VROLG FRORXUV LQ IRXU GL̆HUHQW IDEULFV ZRRO broadcloth, satin, tweed and velvet) – “the very material any Parisian workshop simply cannot do without,â€? says :DOFNKR̆ Âą LW LV GHVLJQHG WR FRRUGLQDWH DQG LQWHJUDWH with other collections to create statement furniture, ÂżQLVK D VSDFH ZLWK D WRXFK RI WH[WXUH RU FRPELQH ZLWK patterned fabrics. Other collaborations include a range of tableware with Portuguese porcelain manufacturer, Vista Alegre, and decorative wood panels with French company Marotte, whose association with the brand dates back to when it worked with Monsieur Lacroix to ÂżW RXW KLV IDVKLRQ ERXWLTXHV Meanwhile, since leaving the label the couturier

himself has also concentrated on interiors, with a QXPEHU RI KRWHO GHVLJQ SURMHFWV LQFOXGLQJ 6RÂżWHO 6R %DQJNRN DQG D FOXWFK RI ERXWLTXH KRWHOV LQ 3DULV including Hotel du Continent, Hotel Le Bellechasse and Hotel du Petit Moulin. Would his protĂŠgĂŠ like to steer WKH KRXVH LQ WKH VDPH GLUHFWLRQ DV LWV IRXQGHU" Âł, IHHO ready now to work on an hotel contract, in a serious way, I mean not just like a fashion designer doing a GpFRU EXW OLNH DQ LQWHULRU GHVLJQHU ´ :DOFNKR̆ PXVHV “Many decorators or architects are using our fabrics and wallpaper for hotels around the world so I know it works.â€? In preparation, he’ll be working on an “amazingâ€?

19th century apartment in the heart of Paris for two close friends. Also in the pipeline are collaborations with furniture manufacturers.

And while interior dĂŠcor has revived the fortunes of WKH Ă€DPER\DQW IDVKLRQ KRXVH GRHV :DOFNKR̆ KDYH D KDQNHULQJ WR UHWXUQ WR ZRPHQÂśV IDVKLRQ" Âł2I FRXUVH ´ KH FRQFHGHV ÂłEXW LQ D GL̆HUHQW ZD\ IRU WKLV QHZ NLQG RI PRGHUQ ZRPHQ ZKR ZDQWV JUHDW SLHFHV JUHDW ÂżW DQG great ‘know how’, but with no melancholy of the past.â€?

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Bullied at school for his peasant upbringing, Brunello Cucinelli now reigns over a billion-euro luxury clothing empire, but he is still very much a man of the people. Nick Foulkes visits his village kingdom in Umbria, where big bucks and benevolence coexist

5XVNLQÂśV HVVD\ RQ WKH *RWKLF DUFKLWHFWXUH RI 9HQLFH DQG IRU JRRG PHDVXUH , FKXFN LQ 7KRUVWHLQ 9HEOHQÂśV REVHUYDWLRQ RQ WKH UDWLR RI SOHDVXUH WDNHQ LQ KDQGPDGH JRRGV 9HEOHQ ZDV WKH JX\ ZKRVH 7KHRU\ RI WKH /HLVXUH Class gave us the term ‘conspicuous consumption’, and he argued that if a close inspection of a supposedly KDQGPDGH REMHFW UHYHDOV WKDW LW LV LQ UHDOLW\ RQO\ D very clever imitation of hand-wrought goods, then ÂľWKH JUDWLÂżFDWLRQ ZKLFK WKH XVHU GHULYHV IURP LWV FRQWHPSODWLRQ DV DQ REMHFW RI EHDXW\ ZRXOG LPPHGLDWHO\ decline by some 80 or 90 per cent, or even more’.

It is something Cucinelli returns to over the next FRXSOH RI GD\V EHFDXVH LQ VRPH ZD\ LW VSHDNV WR D personal philosophy that embraces everything from the ZLVGRP RI WKH DQFLHQWV WR PDNLQJ FDVKPHUH VZHDWHUV WR runello Cucinelli was accorded royal WKH EHKDYLRXU RI WKH VW FHQWXU\ VWRFN PDUNHW +LV LV D VWDWXV LQ WKH ZRUOG RI SUHFLRXV ÂżEUHV world of seamless elision in which ostensibly disparate when the Wall Street Journal called FRQFHSWV DUH UHFRQFLOHG +H VSHDNV RI WKH ÂľGLJQLW\ RI KLP WKH .LQJ RI &DVKPHUH %XW ZKDW SURÂżWÂś RI ÂľJUDFLRXV FDSLWDOLVPÂś WKH QHHG WR PDNH WLPH PDNHV KLP IDVFLQDWLQJ LV WKH VSLULWXDO IRU FRQWHPSODWLRQ WKH OHVVRQV RI 9ROWDLUH DQG WKH dimension that he perceives in luxury. importance of wearing cargo trousers with a blazer and 7DON WR KLP IRU PRUH WKDQ ÂżYH PLQXWHV DQG \RX UHDOLVH tie. Sometimes all in the same sentence.

WKDW KH GRHVQœW ZDQW WR EH D NLQJ LQ IDFW KH ZRXOG It is more than a way of doing business, or wearing SUREDEO\ UDWKHU EH D PRQN FORWKHV 6WUDQJH WR WKLQN WKDW ZKHQ KH ZDV D FKLOG WKH :KHQ , ¿UVW YLVLWHG KLP WKUHH RU IRXU \HDUV DJR LQ Solomeo – the impeccably restored 14th-century village PDQ QRZ PL[LQJ SKLORVRSK\ IDVKLRQ DQG KLJK ¿QDQFH used to guide the oxen pulling the plough on his father’s near Perugia that he owns and where his eponymous FORWKLQJ HPSLUH LV EDVHG ¹ KH KDG MXVW SXEOLVKHG D ERRN VPDOOKROGLQJ ,W KDV EHHQ D UHPDUNDEOH MRXUQH\ The son of peasant farmers in Umbria, Cucinelli did about the place. The sense of luxury is mingled with an almost medieval not experience austerity. Only electric light a rich man until his teens in FRXOG PDNH WKLV the early 1960s. happen; only an Electricity came enlightened one into his life when would do it this he moved from way. Solomeo is the country to Citizen Kane’s the village of Xanadu without Castel Rigone with his father, his mother and his two older brothers, the pomp and cynicism. one of whom now has a plumbing business while the Now in his early 60s, Cucinelli remains ageless, other is a carpenter (their businesses are never short of WKH HYHQ ZKLWH VPLOH EHDPLQJ RXW IURP VXQ ¿VVXUHG ZRUN DV &XFLQHOOL LV FRQVWDQWO\ H[SDQGLQJ KLV +4

IHDWXUHV DQ DUWIXOO\ XQWLG\ WKDWFK RI JUH\ Ă€HFNHG VDQG His overriding memory of this time is his father’s coloured hair belying his years. His cashmere blazer is XQKDSSLQHVV DW OLIH LQ D FHPHQW ZRUNV ZKHUH KH ZDV worn over a navy pullover with a white shirt and stoneFRORXUHG WURXVHUV UROOHG XS DW WKH DQNOH WR EHWWHU GLVSOD\ taunted by those who thought him a simple peasant. “I ZDV YHU\ D̆HFWHG E\ P\ IDWKHU EHLQJ KXPLOLDWHG LQ WKH a pair of chestnut-coloured derby shoes. Only the factory,â€? he says, “and although he was a very strong tell-tale green and red rosette worn in his buttonhole man, because he had not studied he was convinced that – that of the Cavaliere del Lavoro, the Italian Order of KH GLGQÂśW NQRZ DQ\WKLQJ VR KHÂśG UDWKHU QRW VSHDN %XW Merit for Labour given to Cucinelli in recognition of his sometimes he would say, ‘What have I done to God to be services to the fashion and textile industry – hints that KXPLOLDWHG OLNH WKLV"ϫ this is a man out of the ordinary. &XFLQHOOL ZDV EXOOLHG DW VFKRRO IRU KLV EDFNJURXQG I am barely out of the car and we are already on DQG KH DQG D IULHQG URXWLQHO\ KDG WKHLU SDFNHG OXQFKHV to Emperor Hadrian, a man Cucinelli mentions so stolen, until one day he hit on the idea of lacing his with IUHTXHQWO\ WKDW \RX WKLQN KH KDV MXVW VHHQ KLP IRU laxative. That stopped the food theft, but there was less OXQFK WKDW GD\ $QG WKHQ FRQYHUVDWLRQ WXUQV WR 5XVNLQ he could do about the clothes he wore to school. “You who is apparently the inspiration for the new season’s ZHUH ORRNHG GRZQ XSRQ EHFDXVH \RXU VFKRRO PDWHV DGYHUWLVLQJ , GUHGJH XS D IHZ VNHWFK\ UHFROOHFWLRQV RI

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CITIZEN CASHMERE

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would say you were a peasant. You were wearing peasant JDUPHQWV \RX ZHUH VSHDNLQJ GLDOHFW VR WKHUH ZDV D KXJH GL̆HUHQFH EHWZHHQ \RX DQG WKHP 7KHUH LV QR ORQJHU WKLV GL̆HUHQFH QRZ EHFDXVH ZKHWKHU \RX FRPH from the countryside or not, you have your iPhone and \RX ZHDU WKH VDPH MHDQV ´ ,W LV WKLV YLVLRQ RI FORWKHV as an agent of social mobility that has motivated his crusade to put the world, or at least that part of it that FDQ VSHQG 86 RQ D FDVKPHUH EOD]HU LQWR WKH ORRN that he describes as luxury sport chic.

Cucinelli studied engineering at university but did not complete the course, and instead says he graduated at the bar where he would discuss football and life with his buddies who remain his friends to this day. Indeed WKH ZD\ KH WDONV DERXW KLV WLPH VWXG\LQJ DW WKH VFKRRO RI life there was not much in the way of a career path. His ¿UVW SURIHVVLRQDO EUXVK ZLWK WKH IDVKLRQ ZRUOG FDPH DV D model for the sports clothing company Ellesse – a friend FDOOHG KLP DQG DVNHG KLP WR JLYH LW D WU\ +LV HQWU\ LQWR the world of cashmere was similarly casual. He started WKLQNLQJ DERXW FDVKPHUH RQO\ EHFDXVH KH IDQFLHG D JLUO ZKR UDQ D VPDOO NQLWZHDU VKRS 7KDW JLUO )HGHULFD has been his wife for 30-odd years, and they have two daughters, Camilla, 32, and Carolina, 23. +LV EUHDNWKURXJK PRPHQW LQ ZDV WR FRPH XS with a collection of coloured cashmere for women, something that he claims had not been done before.

At that time he was selling wholesale, relying on small DUWLVDQDO SURGXFHUV LQ KLV QDWLYH 8PEULD %XVLQHVV ZDV hand to mouth to start with, and there followed a bit RI GXFNLQJ DQG GLYLQJ ZKHQ FOLHQWV UDQJ XS KH ZRXOG impersonate various non-existent employees to give the sense of a large and well-established commercial operation. After women’s cashmere he went into men’s. $QG LQ KH WRRN D VWHS WKDW ZRXOG WUDQVIRUP KLV OLIH DQG RSHQHG KLV ÂżUVW VWRUH LQ 3RUWR &HUYR LQ 6DUGLQLD The next big step was to create his own world and accessorise it with everything from candles to cushions, luggage to leather goods. “In 2000 I decided to go for WKH WRWDO ORRN ´ KH VD\V Âł7KH XQGHUO\LQJ LGHD ZDV DOZD\V that of using either cashmere as a main material, or HYHU\WKLQJ WKDW ZDV DV SUHFLRXV , EDVLFDOO\ WRRN D ORRN DW P\ SHUVRQDO ZDUGUREH DQG , WRRN RXW P\ FRDWV P\ EOD]HUV DQG , WULHG WR PDNH WKHP FRQWHPSRUDU\ ´ Cucinelli recalls that as a child he was always interested in clothes and had already developed - 50 -

‘He started thinking about cashmere only because he fancied a girl who ran a small knitwear shop’

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precociously strong ideas about colours. “When I was eight, nine years of age my mother bought me a pair of JUHHQ WURXVHUV Âą FRUGXUR\ JUHHQ WURXVHUV , GLGQÂśW OLNH green, and I basically buried them underground. And P\ PRWKHU NHSW DVNLQJ PH Âľ:KHUH DUH \RXU WURXVHUV"Âś , VDLG Âľ2K , GRQÂśW NQRZ Âś $QG IURP WKHQ RQ , VWRSSHG wearing green,â€? he says with a smile. “You need to have an extra gear, we say in Italian, from birth. So, IRU H[DPSOH LI , WDNH D ORRN DW WKH SLFWXUHV WKDW ZHUH WDNHQ RI PH DW WKH DJH RI RU ZH ZHUH SHDVDQWV IDUPHUV EXW HYHQ WKHQ , ZDV GL̆HUHQW IURP P\ EURWKHUV although we were wearing the same clothes. You need to have something inborn in you.â€? Today he says that

restaurant-quality four-course lunch for â‚Ź2.80 a head.

Aside from the benevolent business model, Cucinelli has the gift of charisma. You want to buy into the philosophy. And of course you want to buy the clothes.

He sold his business to investors on the same basis. He WROG KLV EDQN WKDW KH ZRXOG QRW JR SXEOLF XQOHVV KH FRXOG meet potential investors and invite them to Solomeo so they could “become acquainted with the product, the culture, the village�. “They came here, they saw the place, they all had dinner at my place. So they met my family, my wife, and saw the life here in the village.�

His is one of the families that live in Solomeo and his GDXJKWHUV ZRUN LQ WKH VW\OLQJ ṘFH )HGHULFD UXQV WKH

Text: Nick Foulkes / Telegraph Magazine / The Interview People Images: Getty Images

‘Part of Cucinelli’s philosophy is transparency; thanks to modern technology his workers can find out how much he is worth’ he draws his inspiration from “people and from street style�, adding: “It has always been very important to ORRN FDUHIXOO\ DW \RXQJ SHRSOH DQG WKH ZD\ WKH\ ZHDU clothes.�

1RZ WKDQNV WR WKDW ³H[WUD JHDU´ KH HPSOR\V GLUHFWO\ or indirectly more than 4,000 people, and has 100 mono-brand stores around the world. At the time of its ,32 LQLWLDO SXEOLF R̆HULQJ LQ KLV FRPSDQ\ ZDV YDOXHG DW Ÿ PLOOLRQ 7RGD\ KH WHOOV PH LWV YDOXDWLRQ is in excess of ₏1.2 billion.

A supper for a couple of dozen friends, family and employees is being held under the cypress trees on the terrace of the ‘neo-humanist’ library that Cucinelli built for the village (it’s right next to the amphitheatre and WKH ÂľIRUXP RI WKH DUWVÂś 6RORPHR LV KRPH WR DERXW SHRSOH QRW DOO RI ZKRP ZRUN IRU &XFLQHOOL 7KH ZRPHQ are quilted and layered in gilets of leather and cashmere against a chill in the night air. The men sport a variation RI WKH %UXQHOOR XQLIRUP RI VLQJOH FRORXU FDVKPHUH SXOORYHU FORVH ÂżWWLQJ MDFNHW DQG FDVXDO WURXVHUV UROOHG GHFLVLYHO\ DERYH WKH DQNOH 7KH IROORZLQJ PRUQLQJ &XFLQHOOL WDNHV PH RQ D WRXU RI KLV +4 6WXGHQWV DQG DSSUHQWLFHV DUH DW ZRUN LQ the classrooms and ateliers of what Cucinelli calls WKH 6FKRRO RI 6RORPHR ZKHUH WKH\ OHDUQ WKH VNLOOV RI NQLWWLQJ UHSDLULQJ SDWWHUQ FXWWLQJ DQG WDLORULQJ 0RVW are in their early 20s and they study for nine months, DW WKH HQG RI ZKLFK WKH\ UHFHLYH DQ ṘFLDOO\ UHFRJQLVHG TXDOLÂżFDWLRQ Âą WKH VFKRRO ZDV FUHDWHG LQ FROODERUDWLRQ ZLWK &RQÂżQGXVWULD WKH ,WDOLDQ HPSOR\HUVÂś DVVRFLDWLRQ There are also courses in agriculture, gardening and masonry.

3DUW RI &XFLQHOOLÂśV SKLORVRSK\ LV WUDQVSDUHQF\ WKDQNV WR PRGHUQ WHFKQRORJ\ KH VD\V KLV ZRUNHUV FDQ ÂżQG RXW KRZ PXFK KH LV ZRUWK +H VD\V KH SD\V KLV ZRUNHUV XS to 20 per cent more than the industry average, and gives WKHP DQ SHU FHQW GLVFRXQW +LV ZRUNHUV DUH VHUYHG D

large and elegant factory stores in Solomeo which have become one of the tourist attractions of the region. She also supervises the charitable activities of the Cucinelli )RXQGDWLRQ Âł, VDLG WKDW ÂżQDQFH VKRXOG JR EDFN WR FR RSHUDWLQJ with industry, with mutual respect for each other. So if \RXÂśUH ORRNLQJ IRU D FODVVLF EXVLQHVV WKDW PRVW RI DOO LV ORRNLQJ IRU SURÂżW Âą LI \RX ZDQW D FRPSDQ\ ZLWK D WR SHU FHQW JURZWK UDWH D \HDU Âą GR QRW MRLQ XV ,I \RX ZDQW PH WR PDNH D SURÂżW E\ SD\LQJ P\ DUWLVDQV MXVW D normal wage, do not buy us. On the other hand, if you want a company that believes in capitalism, because I believe in capitalism, that grows in a so-called gracious way; if you want a company that believes in the dignity RI SURÂżW WKDW KRSHV QRW WR GDPDJH RU KDUP PDQNLQG ZKLOH PDQXIDFWXULQJ LWV SURGXFWV WKHQ WU\ DQG MRLQ XV And two years on there was no single investor who’s DVNHG IRU VRPHWKLQJ GL̆HUHQW ´ Investor contentment is perhaps unsurprising given WKH JURZWK DQG DV WKH UHFHVVLRQ EHJLQV WR EH WDONHG of in the past tense Cucinelli perceives a brighter IXWXUH QRW OHDVW LQ WHUPV RI WKH SDOHWWH KH LV ZRUNLQJ ZLWK Âł2YHU WKH ODVW ÂżYH VL[ \HDUV WKH WUHQG KDV EHHQ towards neutral colours, muted colours. And now colour LV VWDUWLQJ WR FRPH EDFN :H DUH QHYHU WRR JDULVK WRR EULJKW VR ZH ZRXOG QHYHU EH Ă€XRUHVFHQW :H ZLOO VHH medium colours – oranges, yellows, the whole family of SLQN DQG UHG ´ As if to underline his commitment to the reintroduction of colour he hands me a bag of lemons as a souvenir of our dinner. I smile and say that I clearly have no need to wish him well as business is obviously so thriving that he needs more space. I gesture towards WKH FRQVWUXFWLRQ YLVLEOH IURP KLV ṘFH Âł7KDW LV QRW D new factory,â€? he explains, “it is going to be a fountain DQG D SDUN VR WKDW ZKHQ WKH ZRUNHUV ORRN XS WKH\ VHH something beautiful.â€?

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As Brigitte Bardot turns 80, AIR charts her transformation from barefoot beauty to screen siren to animal activist

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SUHVV DQG SXEOLF ³:KHUHYHU VKH ZHQW WKHUH ZHUH VXGGHQO\ FURZGV 7KH VWRUHV LQ WKRVH GD\V ZHUH FORVHG IURP QRRQ WR SP 6R VKH¶G VQHDN LQWR WRZQ DW SP SDUN KHU FDU EHKLQG WKH VWRUH DQG JR LQVLGH $QG ZLWKLQ PLQXWHV ZRUG ZRXOG VSUHDG WKDW %ULJLWWH ZDV WKHUH DQG WKHUH¶G EH SHRSOH VWDQGLQJ RXWVLGH WKH VWRUH ´ VD\V 5RELQVRQ ³2QH NLG XVHG WR VQHDN RQWR KHU SURSHUW\ VWHDO KHU SDQWLHV FXW WKHP XS DQG SXW WKHP RQ SRVWFDUGV WR VHOO DV µ%ULJLWWH %DUGRW¶V SDQWLHV¶ &DQ \RX LPDJLQH KDYLQJ WR OLYH \RXU OLIH HYHU\GD\ ZRUU\LQJ DERXW SHRSOH OLNH WKDW"´ ,Q DIWHU IDOOLQJ SUHJQDQW VKH PDUULHG DFWRU -DFTXHV &KDUULHU ³7KH SDSDUD]]L KDG UHQWHG WKH DSDUWPHQWV DFURVV WKH VWUHHW VR HYHU\ WLPH VKH RSHQHG WKH ZLQGRZV WKHUH ZHUH FDPHUDV SRLQWLQJ DW KHU ´ KH VD\V 0RWKHUKRRG WXUQHG RXW WR EH WRR GLÌ&#x2021;FXOW ³:KHQ VKH GLYRUFHG &KDUULHU LQ KH UDLVHG WKHLU VRQ 1LFRODV 'XULQJ WKH VFKRRO KROLGD\V KH¶G FRPH GRZQ WR 6W 7URSH] IURP 3DULV 7KHUH ZRXOG EH VRPH NLQG RI SKRWR VHVVLRQ RI KHU DQG 1LFRODV EXW 9DGLP WROG PH WKDW DIWHU WZR GD\V VKH¶G FDOO KLP DQG VD\ µSOHDVH WDNH WKLV FKLOG DZD\ IURP PH¶ DQG 1LFRODV ZRXOG VSHQG WKH UHVW RI KLV YDFDWLRQ DW 9DGLP¶V KRXVH ´ 7RJHWKHU ZLWK 0DULO\Q 0RQURH %DUGRW ZDV WKH PRVW FHOHEUDWHG SLQ XS RI WKH GD\ )UHQFK LQWHOOHFWXDOLVW 6LPRQH GH %HDXYRLU FDOOHG KHU WKH ³ORFRPRWLYH RI ZRPHQ¶V KLVWRU\´ DQG SUHVHQWHG KHU DV WKH ¿UVW DQG PRVW OLEHUDWHG

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;She was a role model for an entire generation of young girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ZRPDQ RI SRVW ZDU )UDQFH ³6KH ZDV D UROH PRGHO IRU DQ HQWLUH JHQHUDWLRQ RI \RXQJ JLUOV PXFK WR WKH FKDJULQ RI WKHLU SDUHQWV ´ VD\V 5RELQVRQ ³:KDWHYHU VKH ZRUH WKH ZD\ VKH VW\OHG KHU KDLU WKH ZD\ VKH ZDONHG DQG WDONHG HYHU\ JLUO LQ )UDQFH LQ ZDV GRLQJ WKH VDPH ´ )UHQFK SUHVLGHQW &KDUOHV GH *DXOOH PHDQZKLOH FDOOHG KHU ³WKH )UHQFK H[SRUW DV LPSRUWDQW DV 5HQDXOW FDUV´ ³6KH ZDV D KXJH PRQH\ VSLQQHU ´ VD\V 5RELQVRQ ³$QG WKLV ZDV LQ D WLPH ORQJ EHIRUH VWDUV KDG ERG\JXDUGV DQG DJHQWV DQG PDQDJHUV 6KH ZDV UHDOO\ WKH ¿UVW PDMRU LQWHUQDWLRQDO VWDU RI WKH PRGHUQ HUD ´ <HW VKH ZDV LQGLÌ&#x2020;HUHQW WR WKH ¿OP LQGXVWU\ ± IDPRXVO\ UHIXVLQJ WR JR WR +ROO\ZRRG ± DQG GLGQ¶W UHDOO\ OLNH PDNLQJ PRYLHV HLWKHU ,Q VKH ZHQW WR %UD]LO ZLWK KHU %UD]LOLDQ ER\IULHQG %RE =DJXU\ VWD\LQJ LQ D

EHDFK KXW LQ D YLOODJH FDOOHG %~]LRV DERXW NLORPHWUHV IURP 5LR GH -DQHLUR ³6KH VSHQW IRXU PRQWKV DORQH ZLWK =DJXU\ RXW RI WKH ZD\ RI WKH SDSDUD]]L DQG QRERG\ ERWKHUHG WKHP ´ VD\V 5RELQVRQ :K\ GLG VKH UHWXUQ WR 6W 7URSH] , ZRQGHU ZKHQ VKH KDG WKH DELOLW\ WR HVFDSH WKH FLUFXV KHU OLIH KDG EHFRPH" ³9DGLP VDLG WR PH µ\RX NQRZ %ULJLWWH LV D SLHFH RI ZRUN 6KH VD\V VKH GRHVQ¶W ZDQW DQ\ RI WKH WUDSSLQJV RI IDPH DQG WKH SDSDUD]]L DQG DOO WKH DWWHQWLRQ 6KH FRXOG WXUQ LW RÌ&#x2020; WRPRUURZ LI VKH UHDOO\ ZDQWHG WR DQG , WROG KHU WKDW EXW VKH ZRQ¶W WXUQ LW RÌ&#x2020;¶ ´ UHFDOOV 5RELQVRQ ³, GRQ¶W WKLQN VKH OLNHV EHLQJ %ULJLWWH %DUGRW DOO WKH WLPH EXW ZKHQ LW¶V XVHIXO VKH ORYHV LW ´ 6KH PDUULHG IRU D WKLUG WLPH WKH IROORZLQJ \HDU WR PLOOLRQDLUH *HUPDQ SOD\ER\ *XQWHU 6DFKV ³*XQWHU ZDV D ZRQGHUIXO JX\ DQG SUREDEO\ WKH RQO\ KXVEDQG ZKR FRXOG - 57 -

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Always a contradictory character, she alienated friends and retreated to her world of animals with her fourth husbandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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From his stylised 1930s fashion shoots to his glamorous Hollywood portraits, Horst P. Horst is one of the 20th century’s master photographers. A new retrospective at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum celebrates the fashion photographer’s extraordinary career behind the lens

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Dinner suit and headdress by Schiaparelli. 1947. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate.

Photographer of Style

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Muriel Maxwell, American Vogue, 1939. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate.

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Dress by Hattie Carnegie, 1939. Š CondÊ Nast/Horst Estate.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fashion is an expression of the times.

Elegance is something else againâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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Horst directing fashion shoot with Lisa Fonssagrives, 1949. Photo by Roy Stevens/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

Horst: Photographer of Style runs from September 6 to January 4, 2015 at the V&A. For more information, visit www.vam.ac.uk/horst

THE

REGIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S RUNWAY AS FASHION WEEK TAKES OVER CITIES AROUND THE WORLD, AIR EXPLORES THE POSSIBILITY OF DEVELOPING A FASHION CAPITAL RIGHT HERE IN DUBAI

I

f fashion were theatre then Dubai is the Middle Eastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to Broadway, regularly lifting the curtain on the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (and the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) design talent. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sell-out production, then, was Karl Lagerfeldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chanel resort runway show which saw theatregoers (in this case Hollywoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A-list and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;double Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122; devotees) scramble for a front row seat at his %HGRXLQ VW\OH DXGLWRULXP RĚ&#x2020; WKH FRDVW RI WKH 8$( $QG while Kaiser Karlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision to pop the emirate into a sling and catapult it onto the world stage highlighted Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commercial pull for fashion houses, it, too, encouraged them to look more closely at its place on the international fashion map.

Dubai has been branded â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;emergingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the style stakes for a few years now, with a number of notable designers and industry advocates championing the regional talent punching up through a patchwork of established international designers.

(PHUJH E\ GHÂżQLWLRQ WKRXJK PHDQV D KDQGIXO of things: to come forth from obscurity, to come into existence, or to become evident. Perhaps it is the latter denotation that best illustrates why the region more broadly is emerging as a fashion tour de force.

History tells us that fashion in the Middle East is

neither â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;obscureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; nor â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;non-existentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 19th-century couturier Paul Poiret looked to the Middle Eastern caftan when he set about reforming dressmaking in the 20th century, while Yves Saint Laurent did a great take on the Moroccan jalabiya in 1970s. Regionally, style (in some cases) is as much part of the culture as heritage: ladies in Kuwait stopped wearing the abaya in the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;60s after a portion of the female population discovered international fashion while studying abroad; Saudi Arabia was (and probably still is) the best international couture client in the late â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;80s, with industry experts claiming that Paris haute couture probably wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have survived into the 21st century without its avid clients from this region; and in nearby Lebanon, designers such as Reem Acra and Elie Saab have been creating couture for discerning dressers for decades.

It is, however, more â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;evidentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, with designers, entrepreneurs and government entities launching a range of initiatives to encourage creativity in the region.

And Dubai is leading this push for style supremacy.

Putting past failings aside for a moment (did I hear someone say Dubai Fashion Week?) and there is a number of projects that are creating a buzz in the fashion realm. Fashion Forward, a platform from which regional designers can vent their creative visions before - 64 -

1.

key trade buyers (retailers, distributors, potential franchisees and agents), celebrates its fourth season next month. Then we have Dubai Design District (d3), a 15.5 million-square-feet creative area dedicated to design, and the Dubai Fashion Vision 2020, a government initiative to turn Dubai into a fashion capital within six years. Change is afoot. But does Dubai have the public interest and the requisite design talent to become as big as New York or Paris?

‘Already our designers are getting international attention. Rami Al Ali is taking Paris by storm’ “Announcing Fashion 2020 – for Dubai to be an equal fashion capital to the other important fashion capitals of the world – that’s a major thing,” says Syrian haute couture designer, Rami Al Ali, who lists Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez and Chanel Iman as clients. Speaking DKHDG RI WKH ODXQFK RI KLV ¿UVW UHDG\ WR ZHDU FROOHFWLRQ in Paris this month, the Dubai-based couturier says: “This will change the whole map of international fashion capitals in the world.” And while likening the emirate to the Big Apple or The City of Light is like comparing

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Rami Al Ali Fashion Forward Dubai Chanel Resort Collection Rami Al Ali couture gown Bong Guerrero

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apples and oranges (“these capital cities didn’t become ‘London, Paris, Milan, New York’ all of a sudden, it’s over time”), Al Ali adds: “Time is an important factor in order to build such an industry here. To be positioned completely as a fashion capital by 2020, [that’s] probably a bit of a marathon. It is doable if you have the right team behind it and all these initiatives, and the people behind those initiatives, are the right people to do such a thing.”

Founder of Fashion Forward, Bong Guerrero, echoes Al Ali’s sentiment. “Dubai being such an international city with international appeal, it makes sense to try and aim to be a centre for fashion; at least for the region. I don’t want to make it sound so easy but I think the potential is there. You’ve got over 200 nationalities residing in the Gulf, and less and less are transient; more and more people are considering this as their home. When you start doing that, you have the

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3.

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possibility of a New York happening here.â&#x20AC;?

Fashion consumerism is also very high in Dubai says the Filipino-born businessman â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who is quick to point out that â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not a designer, over my career Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always interacted with creative people which, by default, makes me a creative personâ&#x20AC;?. He says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got the very ULFK ORFDO SRSXODWLRQ WKDW FDQ DĚ&#x2020;RUG RQ WRS RI WKDW ZH DUH ÂżYH KRXUV IURP HYHU\ZKHUH ZKLFK PHDQV WKHUHÂśV D VWURQJ LQĂ&#x20AC;X[ RI OHLVXUH DQG EXVLQHVV YLVLWRUV ZKLFK makes shopping number one; and a lot of the big brands DUH FKDPSLRQLQJ WKHLU Ă&#x20AC;DJVKLS VWRUHV FRPPHUFLDOO\ in Dubai,â&#x20AC;? says Guerrero. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This tells you that fashion consumerism is very high here.â&#x20AC;? And according to d3, the emirateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retail sector is expected to grow to Dhs151 billion within the next two years. :KDW LV LURQLF IRU WKH ÂłHYHQWRORJLVW´ Âą ZKR ÂżUVW arrived in Dubai in 1990 for an â&#x20AC;&#x153;Indiana Jones expeditionâ&#x20AC;? but soon found himself launching his own

couture house, followed by a series of fashion-related events â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is that the Gulf doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have its own local fashion heroes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In the States you have Ralph Lauren, Donna Karen and Calvin Klein. You go to London and you have Stella McCartney. Because they are an international city they champion their own heroes and brands and then export them to the rest of the world.

And I think we have that possibility, at least within the region, to truly create power brands out of this selection of emerging and established designers.â&#x20AC;?

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where Fashion Forward comes in. The threeday event, which takes place at Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Madinat Jumeirah Conference Centre from October 4 to 6, is about championing designers that have a regional agenda but are aiming for a global outreach. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And because we are in Dubai, that is not far from possible,â&#x20AC;? says Guerrero. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Already our designers are getting international attention. Rami Al Ali is taking Paris by storm, and then we have Furne One and Michael Cinco just killing Hollywood. We just nominated The Emperor 1688 for the National Woolmark Prize â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent won decades ago.

Imagine if they win it?â&#x20AC;?

And winning is indeed possible if the judges agree with Lagerfeldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s summary of the Emirates. When asked ZK\ KH ODQGHG KLV SODQH LQ WKH 8$( ZKHQ KH FRXOGÂśYH touched down in the Big Four, he simply declared: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dubai is the world of tomorrow.â&#x20AC;?

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The revolutionary is back on Savile Row. Ryan Thompson meets the outspoken genius of modern tailoring, Carlo Brandelli

C

arlo Brandelli is a tall, lithe, 46-yearold Italian who has built himself something of a reputation as the scourge of Savile Row. Which is funny, because, following an abrupt departure from the tailors Kilgour RYHU ÂłFUHDWLYH GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQFHV´ ÂżYH \HDUV later Kilgour has asked Brandelli EDFN WR ÂłFRQWLQXH ZKHUH KH OHIW RĚ&#x2020;´ We meet in Fera, the fancy new restaurant at Claridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (his choice), where for the next three hours we plough through nine courses and two bottles of wine. As ever, Brandelli is on expansive form. Âł5HDO OX[XU\ LV KDYLQJ WLPH ´ KH says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Time allows you to make informed choices. Luxury has been too often linked to something that is expensive, but you can use the

A CUT ABOVE most humble materials to produce something really meaningful. It has very little to do with cost, but more WR GR ZLWK FRQVLGHUDWLRQ ´ 7KH FRQĂ&#x20AC;LFW DUULYHG RXW RI %UDQGHOOLÂśV HĚ&#x2020;RUWV WR PRGHUQLVH WKH traditional suit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in his previous incarnation at Kilgour, this centred on using a single button, at the waist, that elongated the line and left the rest of the suit unstructured.

He also removed all lining and strengthened the shoulder to hold the proportions together. Jude Law, Daniel Craig and Bryan Ferry were all fans. In many ways, he could be seen as the godfather of the - 68 -

single-breasted, tonic-blue number popularised by Cameron and Clegg â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WKH ÂłFRDOLWLRQ VXLW´ Âą QRZ DGRSWHG E\ every estate agent from Manchester to Mayfair.

Today Brandelli is wearing a suit of a kind I have never seen before, a double-breasted asymmetrical FXW LQ D ÂżQH PHVK OLNH IDEULF 7KH lapel is neither notched nor peaked nor shawled. Instead, it features just a hint of an interruption to the straight line, a peak lapel in embryo, EHORZ ZKLFK KDQJV D ÂżQH VFDUI LQ the same material. If the thought

of not wearing a shirt with a suit seems strange, the idea of adding one to Brandelliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ensemble seems ridiculous, like putting a spoiler on an Aston Martin. The suit seems to absorb light, retaining a creaseless blackness as he moves. The whole HĚ&#x2020;HFW LV VRPHZKDW SDQWKHU OLNH The son of Italian artisans, Brandelli was born into the Alessi family, but raised in Highgate, north London. Eighteen years ago, he married his English wife, Charlotte, and has a teenage son and a daughter who is training to be a chef. He made

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his name in the 1990s with Squire, a VWRUH RĚ&#x2020; 6DYLOH 5RZ WKDW VSHFLDOLVHG in elegant young menswear, and was appointed creative director of Kilgour in 2003. After leaving WKH ÂżUP LQ KH ZRUNHG DV D sculptor, collaborating with artists such as Matthew Brannon and exhibiting at Frieze. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have always tried to take a multidisciplined approach to all design, because you need to understand as many other disciplines as possible in order to KDYH SHUVSHFWLYH ´ KH VD\V As well as cut, Brandelli has opinions on colour: he has a ÂłPHQVZHDU FRGH´ WKDW UHYROYHV around â&#x20AC;&#x153;darkest ink navy, several tones of grey, white, black and VN\ EOXH´ $QG KH UHPDLQV DV contentious as ever about the VWXĚ&#x2021;QHVV RI 6DYLOH 5RZ DQG WKH status quo of menswear: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sculptors, artists, architects and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion designers have all been

recognised more. Ask yourself why.

Is it because menswear designers have not managed to communicate the thought behind the design, or because the design and thought have largely been too lightweight? â&#x20AC;&#x153;So much menswear follows the same ROG WULHG DQG WHVWHG URXWHV ´ KH UDLOV â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you look at the detail of many

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bespoke has a cost to it, because it justifiably takes a long time to do, but I think of it like engineering for the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brands, they are all just the same.

You cannot keep citing â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;tradition and heritageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as the reason why the design does not change. You have to be relevant to the times in which you OLYH ´ That is not to say he is not a fan of bespoke â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just his version of it. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I try to apply a reductive luxury ethos - 70 -

to the brand, so I acknowledge that some correct materials are necessary in order to make the design GHVLUDEOH ´ KH H[SODLQV ³%XW , WU\ WR rein in how much is used and how it is used. Nothing should be excessive, there must be balance.

Bespoke has a cost to it, because LW MXVWLÂżDEO\ WDNHV D ORQJ WLPH WR do, but I think of it like engineering for the body. Men like to know the data that goes into design as

well as appreciating the aesthetic.

For example, with car design, the engine and engineering are just as LPSRUWDQW DV WKH ÂżQDO DSSHDUDQFH ´ Bespoke provides Brandelli with just the luxury of time he craves. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The lack of correct thinking that I feel has been happening is due to the very little time that people now VSHQG LQ UHĂ&#x20AC;HFWLRQ RU FRQWHPSODWLRQ 7KLV LV ZK\ WKH LGHD RI ÂľUHĂ&#x20AC;HFWLRQÂś LV VR LPSRUWDQW DW .LOJRXU ´ There are those who would suggest that he overintellectualises menswear. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Intelligent men donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need vacuous fashion images shot in exotic locations, with models SHHULQJ LQWR WKH GLVWDQFH ´ KH responds. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think sometimes we need our minds to be stimulated in DQRWKHU ZD\ ´

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After such a marathon meal, and a conversation that in a single sentence has frequently veered from subjects as diverse as marsh RDN Ă&#x20AC;RRULQJ WR WKH PHULWV RI TLJRQJ ,ÂśP ÂżW IRU D OLH GRZQ %UDQGHOOL KRZHYHU KDV KDUGO\ Ă&#x20AC;LQFKHG +H makes a point of thanking all the PHPEHUV RI VWDĚ&#x2020; ZKR ZDLWHG RQ XV then drifts away down the amber-lit skeins of Claridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, sleek, assured, panther-like.

MOTORING

The driving fo

rce of

n o i h s a f :R Word s

RD IC H A

The biggest na mes in motorin g make sure th carsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; interiors w eir ould cut it on a ny catwalk

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JENK

I NS

L

Bruno Clergue/Nick Dimbleby.

uxury cars are interesting things on the inside and out. Ninety nine per cent of the world only gets to see them from the outside, which is why so much time, money and manpower is expended on the exterior lines. But for the driver behind the wheel, the interior is whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be spending most of their time, after all. The interiors of supercars vary depending on their use â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Lamborghini keeps the luxuries to a minimum, McLaren likewise, whereas the inside of a Rolls-Royce or Bentley give the impression of a well-appointed gentlemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s club.

In recent years, many of the biggest manufacturers in the world have collaborated with high-end designers WR SURYLGH WKH PRVW IDEXORXV ¿QLVKHV WR WKHLU YHKLFOHV Perhaps the most iconic supercar of all time, the Bugatti Veyron, had a facelift in 2008 when the Bugatti Veyron Fbg par Hermès was announced. Designer Gabriele Pezzini married the distinctive Hermès style to the legendary Veyron 16.4, to create one of the most hotly collectable versions ever made of the famous roadster.

The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fbgâ&#x20AC;? in the carâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s title refers to the historic Hermès headquarters on the Rue du Fauborg Saint-HonorĂŠ in Paris. Pezzini extended the traditional two-tone exterior to the interior, and the inner surfaces were designed and sheathed in bull calfskin by the Hermès workshops in Paris. The Hermès signature is continued with central EXWWHUĂ&#x20AC;\ ZKHHO ORFNV EUDQGHG ZLWK WKH OHWWHU + DQG the air vents around the rims reproduced the signature Hermès saddle-stitching. Finally, the interior holds several other Hermès treasures, including a wallet and a handmade leather travel case. Even the door handles echo the handles found on Hermès luggage.

- 73 -

MOTORING Maserati has also turned to the world of couture to help make its vehicles even more exclusive. In 2011, it enlisted Italian marque Fendi to create the Maserati GranCabrio Fendi. Crafted in Modena, the three-layered body colour was named Grigio Fiamma Fendi and was D EHDXWLIXO GDUN JUH\ ZLWK DQ LULGHVFHQW JROG ¿QLVK 7KH iconic Fendi yellow was used throughout the vehicle, including the brake callipers and the Maserati trident embroidered on the headrests. The unmistakable Fendi double-F logo was stitched onto the seats and also appeared in the centre of the alloy wheels. Fendi, using the company’s precious Cuoio Romano leather, DOVR VWLWFKHG LQ WKH LQWHULRU OHDWKHU DQG WKH H̆HFW ZDV D stunning mixture of handmade quality and mechanical perfection. More recently, the brand’s Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition made its world debut at the 2013 Frankfurt Motorshow, and has since

been introduced to the Maserati stable in a limited series of only 100 cars. Sophisticated and sleek, the FDELQ ZDV ¿QLVKHG LQ D FRPELQDWLRQ RI OHDWKHU DQG silk reminiscent of the fabrics of the Zegna menswear collections – a task the designers claim was the most GL̇FXOW RI WKH FROODERUDWLRQ One of the more curious fashionable partnerships was that of Fiat and Gucci. The two Italian brands would appear on the surface to have little in common, but the fashion house decided that Fiat’s fun-loving sense of adventure, epitomised by the smash-hit 500 and 500c, would be a good match for the lighter side of the brand.

With that familiar Gucci stripe splashed across the side of the car, this limited edition run of 500 was so popular on its release in 2013 that the 2014 “Nero” model was immediately scheduled. Available with a sleek black or monochrome interior and with Gucci badging throughout, this sporty runaround was the perfect embodiment of Italian adventure.

For many drivers, however, a cheerful Gucci Fiat simply won’t do the trick. For the ultimate statement in luxury a Rolls-Royce is the only way to travel, and the interior design on display in anything from the Rolls-Royce family would put many runway designers to shame. Alan Sheppard is the marque’s interior design projects leader, and in recent years, his projects have included the sumptuous cabins of the Phantom family and the new Ghost. He also developed the Bespoke Design Service at Goodwood, where clients can discuss the personalisation of their motorcars. Sheppard’s style has evolved into one of clean, contemporary yet luxurious elegance, and his hallmark is to combine ancient crafts and traditions with the latest

- 74 -

technological techniques. One minute inside the vast cabin of, say, a Phantom Extended Wheelbase tells you all you need to know about the quality of materials and care taken in the interiorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production. In designing the original Phantom, the Rolls-Royce design team asked themselves the question, â&#x20AC;&#x153;If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re driving from one beautiful place to another beautiful place in the most beautiful way you can, what kind of car do you drive?â&#x20AC;? and Sheppard used the analogy that driving a Phantom

TXDOLW\ LQ ZRRG OHDWKHU DQG IDEULFV EXW LQ YHU\ GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQW ways.

Sometimes though, even Rolls-Royce looks to the fashion world for guidance. In 2012 the brand recruited famed and ultra-cool Lebanese designer Walid Attalah to create two bespoke models, the Phantom Rayan and Phantom Coupe Rayan. To celebrate these oneof-one creations, Attalah also produced 21 cashmere and admiral blue dresses, inspired by the luxurious

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Sometimes even Rolls-Royce looks to the fashion world for guidanceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is like choosing the right pair of shoes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the perfect pair need to feel comfortable whatever the circumstances.

'LĚ&#x2020;HUHQFHV EHWZHHQ LQGLYLGXDO PRGHOV DUH DOVR striking. While patently part of the same family, the interior of the Phantom is architectural, with straight lines giving order and structure. Inside a Ghost, meanwhile, the lines are very deliberately kept more Ă&#x20AC;XLG ODQJXLG DQG VYHOWH %RWK FDUV XVH WKH YHU\ ÂżQHVW

motoring brand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; proving that collaborations between fashion and motoring can extend both ways.

As the worlds of haute couture and haute motoring continue to overlap, drivers can expect to see more and more of these exciting partnerships, and owning one of these rare creations could prove to be a shrewd investment. The right brands aligning at the right time could yield rare and valuable rewards.

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GASTRONOMY Beige Alain Ducasse Chanel, arguably the most famous French label in the world, collaborated with French chef Alain Ducasse for a stunning joint venture in Tokyo. Located on the top of the &KDQHO Ă&#x20AC;DJVKLS VWRUH LQ -DSDQÂśV ultra-upscale Ginza fashion district, the glittering venue is still one of WKH PRVW GLĚ&#x2021;FXOW LQ WKH ZRUOG at which to procure a table.

The space is decorated in warm beige tones ZLWK Ă&#x20AC;RRU WR FHLOLQJ windows with thick black frames, evoking &KDQHOÂśV WKLFN ULPPHG glasses. Karl Lagerfeld himself designed the interior space, and the menu is a curious EOHQG RI -DSDQHVH DQG 'XFDVVHÂśV 0RQpJDVTXH styles. The head chef, Kei Kojima, says that what matters most of all is his ingredients, and he is obsessive in his desire to bring RXW WKH QDWXUDO Ă&#x20AC;DYRXUV RI HDFK ingredient in a dish, in order to FUHDWH KDUPRQ\ RQ WKH SODWH 0RVW ingredients are either fresh and ORFDO IURP -DSDQ RU VRXUFHG GLUHFWO\ IURP )UDQFH )RLH JUDV ZLWK TXLQFH marmalade, langoustines roasted with black pepper and seared Suzuki ÂżVK DUH VRPH RI WKH KLJKOLJKWV RI a sophisticated menu â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as are the after-dinner chocolates embossed with the iconic Chanel logo. Beige is truly a special venue that could only have come from the harmonious meeting of a high-end design house DQG D WKUHH 0LFKHOLQ VWDUUHG FKHI

STYLISH PLATES The worlds of haute cuisine and couture are overlapping more than ever. Here are AIRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s four favourite eateries with a fashionable twist - 76 -

Dolce & Gabbana Gold Serving sizzling Sicilian fare in the KHDUW RI 0LODQ 'ROFH *DEEDQD Gold is the living embodiment of /D 'ROFH 9LWD ,WV Ă&#x20AC;DPER\DQW JROG interior (complete with chandeliers and monogrammed linen) sums up WKH ' * OLIHVW\OH RI JODPRXU DQG comfort, and has recently been refurbished to include accents of terracotta and wood â&#x20AC;&#x201C; making the experience a warmer, richer one

IRU WKH GLQHU *ROGÂśV FKHI &ODXGLR $UFLJOLRQH KDV FUHDWHG D KLJK TXDOLW\ PHQX EDVHG RQ ,WDOLDQ Ă&#x20AC;DYRXUV with international undertones, and dishes include peach veal mignon and, tucked into the dessert menu, a stunning pineapple cannelloni with basil. The standouts are undoubtedly WKH FKHIÂśV 6LFLOLDQ VSHFLDOLWLHV OLNH WKH VZRUGÂżVK UROO VWXĚ&#x2020;HG ZLWK aromatic bread and Ragusano cheese. However, the only dish truly ZRUWK\ RI WKH UHVWDXUDQWÂśV QDPH is the signature chocolate dessert, - 77 -

which is covered in edible gold â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a sumptuous ending to a spectacular meal. Widely praised for its lively and welcoming atmosphere, Gold is a place where big names in the fashion world mix with local 0LODQHVH DQG WRXULVWV DOLNH DQG WKH aim of the evening is not to impress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but to have a good time. The most important thing to remember is to book well in advance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially GXULQJ DXWXPQ ZKHQ WKH ZRUOGÂśV leading lights of fashion descend on 0LODQ LQ WKHLU GURYHV

GASTRONOMY

CafĂŠ Marc Jacobs 7KH ÂżUVW HDWHU\ WR EHDU WKH $PHULFDQ GHVLJQHUÂśV QDPH LV IRXQG DW WKH 3LD]]D GHO &DUPLQH LQ 0LODQÂśV Brera district, and is perfect for a TXLFN ELWH WR UH HQHUJLVH GXULQJ D GD\ÂśV VKRSSLQJ 7KH FDIp LWVHOI LV ULJKW QH[W WR WKH 0DUF -DFREV VWRUH KLV ÂżUVW ,WDOLDQ ERXWLTXH DQG WKH GpFRU LV LQVSLUHG E\ WKH GHVLJQHU Âą fresh and clean, with a mysterious DXUD 7KH IRFDO SRLQW RI WKH FDIp LV D ODUJH OD\HUHG OLJKW Âż[WXUH WKDW illuminates the six-metre-long white Thassos marble bar, and leather and stainless steel bar stools and chairs URXQG RXW WKH FDIp 'HVLJQHG E\ IDPHG DUFKLWHFW 6WHSKDQ -DNOLWVFK WKH FDIp LV FRQQHFWHG WR WKH 0DUF -DFREV VWRUH E\ D VOLGLQJ EOXH GRRU ZKLFK FORVHV DIWHU WKH ERXWLTXH shuts for business â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but leaves the FDIp RSHQ IRU ODWH QLJKW UHYHOOHUV RU those who simply desire an evening FRĚ&#x2020;HH )XUWKHU VLJQDWXUH 0DUF -DFREV WZLVWV LQFOXGH QHRQ VLJQV OX[XULRXV QDY\ FRQFUHWH Ă&#x20AC;RRUV DQG EOXH VWHHO VKHOYHV 7KH PHQX RĚ&#x2020;HUV food for breakfast, lunch and dinner but is best enjoyed for light salads and bar snacks. However, the real stars are the drinks, including signature cocktails made with lychee and lime juice, and a note-perfect %ORRG\ 0DU\ 7R SOXJ \RXUVHOI LQWR the fashion world and get a sense of DOO WKDW 0LODQ KDV WR RĚ&#x2020;HU &DIp 0DUF -DFREV LV D SHUIHFW KRWVSRW - 78 -

Cavalli Club :LWK EUDQFKHV LQ 0LODQ 0LDPL ,EL]D DQG 'XEDL 5REHUWR &DYDOOLÂśV vision of opulence and glamour is fully realised. The Ă la carte menu is curated by executive chef Stefano 0D]]L XQGHU WKH JXLGDQFH RI &DYDOOL KLPVHOI 0D]]L WHOOV $,5 Âł%RWK fashion and food are high art forms. They are both designed for the senses, taste, vision, pleasure, and culture. By mixing the two in an overall experience, 0LDPL &DYDOOL LV RĚ&#x2020;HULQJ WKH elite customer both a blend of experience in the visual and the culinary.â&#x20AC;?

Cavalli recognised that great food is available all over the world, and sought to XVH KLV XQLTXH SHUVRQD WR create an experience the diner ZRXOG QRW IRUJHW 0D]]L VD\V Âł'LQHUV QR ORQJHU ZDQW VWDQGDUGV WKH\ FDQ ÂżQG DQ\ZKHUH WKH\ DUH searching for an entire experience, and with this, dishes that represent the entire mind, body, and spirit.

Haute couture is not eating, it is not dining. It is how we live our lives.â&#x20AC;?

That said; the dining itself is still pretty special. Starters like Tuscan &KLDQLQD EHHI WDUWDUH ZLWK TXDLO HJJ lead on to stunning mains like herb crusted Chilean sea bass, and every dish comes with an Italian twist to surprise and delight.

- 79 -

TRAVEL

***

*** From centuries-old shopping quarters to luxury boutiques, AIR talks to three trendsetters about the high-end gems in their city

- 80 -

LUXURY LISTINGS The best luxury shopping can be found at Just One Eye. Paola Russo has the most incredible ability to ÂżQG ERWK WKH UDUHVW DQG most coveted designers in the world and put them all under one roof. I could spend hours in her store.

Ladies looking for couture should head to Dior. Ever since Raf [Simons] took over, Dior has been my go-to for both feminine yet bold pieces. He is truly a genius. The best tailoring can be found at Saint Laurent â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I must own several â&#x20AC;&#x153;Le Smokingâ&#x20AC;? jackets, which are cut to perfection. For jewellery, Lena Wald designs some RI WKH PRVW LUUHYHUHQW ÂżQH jewellery in the market today. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s refreshing.

DESIGNER WATCHLIST

Just One Eye

Fashion designer and socialite Rosetta Getty reveals Los Angelesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; finest spotsoutiques THE CITY Los Angeles sometimes gets this reputation of being overly casual, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s probably one of the chicest cities in the world.

The most exceptional service I have received

while shopping was at Barneys â&#x20AC;&#x201C; every time and always. Saks Fifth Avenue WRR RĚ&#x2020;HUV D great personal shopping service. I love Tony, as KH FDQ DOZD\V ÂżQG PH that sold out Balenciaga jacket or the CĂŠline bag in the colourway thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

almost impossible to ÂżQG &KHFN LQ WR Sunset Tower â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the service and accommodations here are among the best in LA, and you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t beat the location â&#x20AC;&#x201C; then, after dark, head to Chateau Marmont. An LA classic, what more can I say.

- 81 -

J.W. Anderson [the JW stands for Jonathan William] is so talented; the way he approaches design from a unilateral perspective intrigues me.

I also love [outgoing artistic director of womenswear at Hermès] Christophe Lemaireâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleek yet luscious work, and Coperni Femme just won the First Collection ANDAM Prize [previous winners include Martin Margiela and design duo Viktor & Rolf], so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m excited to see what they do next.

TRAVEL

Renowned British fashion designer Jenny Packham shares her favourite fashionable locations in London FOR HER The best luxury shopping can be found at Mount Street, home to the best European designers – from Balenciaga to Oscar de la Renta, as well as British talent such as Jonathan Saunders and the Jenny 3DFNKDP ÀDJVKLS /DGLHV looking for couture should head to Harrods – one of the best eveningwear departments in the world. )RU RQH RI D NLQG ¿QH jewellery, make a trip to William Welstead at Dover Street Market.

I’m a huge fan of his contemporary take on classic jewels.

FOR HIM The best tailoring can be found at Saint Laurent, so timeless and chic.

For bespoke menswear, visit Savile Row. Quintessentially British, it’s been on the map for centuries and houses the best talent for bespoke

Mount Street

tailoring. The designer on my watchlist – every season – is Dries Van Noten.

FOR SOMETHING TO REMEMBER You’ve landed in London, then what? The best luxury

hotel accommodation can be found at Claridge’s in Mayfair, a masterpiece of design decadence. For standout haute cuisine, book a table at Scott’s, a Mayfair institution, on Mount Street. The pan-fried slip soles and French fries are highly recommended.

- 82 -

If you’re looking for a super luxurious experience before departing the city, then don’t leave without trying the Gaylia Kristensen ‘Utopia Facial’ at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Hyde Park’s superb spa – 90 minutes long and you’ll feel 10 years younger.

this season include Dior, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and The Row.

BEST OF BESPOKE I would say the best tailoring for men today can be found at Berluti, Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ.

Women, meanwhile, should stop by Dior â&#x20AC;&#x201C; \RXÂśOO ÂżQG VL[ ERXWLTXHV in Paris. For one-of-aNLQG ÂżQH MHZHOOHU\ KHDG to Buccellati â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the MHZHOOHU RSHQHG LWV Ă&#x20AC;DJVKLS store in Paris, on Place VendĂ´me, in 1979. For bespoke menswear, try Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Eclaireu. Designers here range from Marni and Missoni to Valentino and Versace.

CULTUR AL PARISIAN HOTSPOTS

Atelier de JoĂŤl Robuchon

Thomas Salomon, heir to furrier Yves Salomon, on luxury shopping in Paris FASHIONABLE FIX ES For luxury shopping head to Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ and Avenue Montaigne.

The former is one of

the most luxurious and fashionable streets in the world (Hermès, Lanvin et al call it home), while the ODWWHU RĚ&#x2020;HUV SOHQW\ RI KLJK fashion options (Bulgari, Chanel and Fendi). Ladies looking for couture should

visit Schiaparelli in Place VendĂ´me. We recently worked with Schiaparelli on the launch of its couture line â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we did the furs for its last show in Paris. And my pick of designers to look out for - 83 -

The Grand Palais on the Champs-ElysĂŠes and the Centre Georges Pompidou are two great spots for art collectors.

The latter houses the National Museum of Modern Art. Epicureans must try Atelier de JoĂŤl Robuchon in SaintGermain-Des-PrĂŠs or CafĂŠ Marly ZKLFK RĚ&#x2020;HUV YLHZV of the Louvre. After dinner head to CafĂŠ de Flore, one of the oldest and most SUHVWLJLRXV FRĚ&#x2020;HHKRXVHV LQ Paris, or Hotel Costes in Rue Saint-HonorĂŠ. Finally, book a private box at the Palais Garnier opera for an unforgettable Parisian experience.

LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW

Christian Louboutin Footwear designer

When I was 16, someone gave me a book by the footwear designer Roger Vivier. It was a catalogue with a gold cover, and I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe you could make a career designing shoes! Later on, I met Vivier and helped him with an exhibition.

I adored the man; it was thrilling to be around him, and he had made me think about shoes more seriously.

In most cases when designing, there LV D VLJQLÂżFDQW ORVV EHWZHHQ WKH GUDZLQJ DQG WKH ÂżQDO UHDOLVDWLRQ When my most iconic design, the 3HQVHH ÂżUVW FDPH RĚ&#x2020; WKH OLQH D model in pink crepe, I saw that it was close to the original drawing, yet something wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t right. It was the black sole, so I grabbed my assistantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nail polish and painted them red. And the red sole became my signature.

Each designer must invent his or her own rules. My motto has always been, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Why not?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; I impose few disciplines on myself, but one I consider important is that when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m working, I owe it to myself to be happy. Shoes, after all, are for dreaming.

It is my belief that everything still has to be done, and to a perfect standard. There have been many highlights in the 20 years since I started the brand, but I have never thought I could relax on the next step, or any step for that matter.

My father was a man of few words, but one thing he did tell me is that all wood has a grain. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Never go against it because that tears the vein of the wood,â&#x20AC;? he would say. You always have to go with the grain of people and of life. Life has a SDUWLFXODU Ă&#x20AC;RZ DQG LI \RX WU\ WR JR against that it just doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work.

- 84 -

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