A Taste For Tokyo

The Peninsula Tokyo proves the perfect spot for a first bite of this wonderfully welcoming city

WORDS: JOHN THATCHER

The presence of the translator was moot at this point. There was no misunderstanding the universal language of laughter, the Chinese head chef tickled pink as he remoulds my derisory attempt at making dim sum. All that was required of me was to enclose a sweet filling inside pre-made dough, working it gently but swiftly between my finger and thumb until the filling became invisible beneath a peak, to resemble a mini yet dormant volcano. Unfortunately, mine more resembled a volcano that had violently erupted, the filling spilling down the sides. By the end of the masterclass – one offered by the Peninsula Tokyo as part of a series of Peninsula Academy programmes available to guests – my basketful of dim sums looked slightly more like the real thing, my prize for not proving completely incompetent a magnificent tasting menu of impeccable Cantonese dishes enjoyed in the hotel’s Hei Feng Terrace, including a memorable Mogami beef in XO sauce, the spicy seafood condiment that was actually invented by chefs at the Peninsula Hong Kong. It proves so filling I’m unable to eat the fruits of my labour when they’re presented to me freshly baked at the end of my meal. A bullet dodged.

I was just as fortunate to choose The Peninsula as my base for exploring Tokyo. Adjacent to the tree-lined grounds of the Imperial Palace and the peaceful Hibiya Park, it’s a short walk to the upscale district of Ginza and mere steps from a subway line that connects some of Tokyo’s must-see sights (it’s actually directly connected to exit A6 of Hibiya Station). Those sights most definitely include Harajuku, which should be the first stop for any first-time visitor keen to get a sense of the city’s fascinating culture.

First there’s the historic: Meiji Shrine is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji, who reigned from 1867 to 1912, and his consort, Empress Shoken, whose love is encapsulated by two trees grown so close together their branches appear as one. The whole area comprises dense forest through which shaded walking paths wind, accessed through a huge torii gate. In the first few days of the New Year, some three million visitors come here to conduct the year’s first prayers, but on any other given day a sense of tranquility pervades.

In rich contrast, Harajuku is also home to Takeshita Street, the 400-metre-long epicentre of teenage fashion. This is where they come to play dress up, clad in sky-high platform footwear and vibrantly coloured clothing and make-up, eating outsized candyfloss and booking slots at cafes that allow you to cuddle the likes of puppies, otters, or mini pigs.

You could easily use up all the available space on your phone taking pictures here. A short distance from here is the other eye-popping attraction that’s famed globally, the Shibuya Crossing, the crisscross intersection that up to 3,000 people walk across every two minutes. Order a coffee at the adjacent Starbucks and watch the action unfold from its second-floor vantage point. If that proves a dizzying sight, the Peninsula is something of a sanctuary on your return. Its spa is among the city’s finest, complete with an indoor 20-metre pool, though the spa stands apart from all others by being the only one to offer guests the option of a shiatsu massage. It instills a feeling of deep relaxation by using the fingers and palms to apply pinpoint pressure to muscles, coupled with gentle stretches. Dating to the outset of the past century, shiatsu was founded by the late Tokujiro Namikoshi, whose grandson performed my massage at the Peninsula. The kind of unique experience that earns the hotel its reputation for exceptional service. A signature of this service can be found in every room. A valet box invites you to place your shoes inside, which are then dispatched down a shaft. Soon after, a light indicates that they have been returned, beautifully polished. Not a spot missed. Such detail is important to Peninsula, and the Grand Premier Suite – perched on the hotel’s highest floors to offer up fine views of the Imperial Palace Gardens – is brimming with it. Everything has been considered, including what you look at on the ceiling when you lie in bed – in this case, an intricate wood carving. The bedroom door is a thing of beauty, one single piece carved from a tree, while just above the bathtub in the bathroom is a button that says ‘spa’. Press it once you’ve slipped into a hot bath and not only do the lights dim, but a soothing soundtrack begins to play.

Even room service at the Peninsula is rich in detail, designed to give guests a flavour of traditional Japanese cuisine and experiences. Exclusive to the hotel is a partnership with what is arguably the world’s most famous ramen restaurant, Ippudo. Its celebrated velvety soup and string-thin noodles are delivered to your room along with a wooden box replete with 12 toppings. A member of the hotel’s room service team is on hand to pour the piping hot soup over the noodles, adding a sprinkling of green onions. It’s delicious. As was dinner at Peter, the hotel’s sky-high fine-dining restaurant, where you get to sample the country’s finest wagyu and seafood sourced that morning from Tokyo’s famed fish market. Like much of the offering at the Peninsula Tokyo, it’s easy to get a taste for the finer things.

The best piece of advice I ever received was from my grandmother, who always told me to keep going, no matter what happens. She always believed in me and my talents, and I hear her voice guiding and pushing me every day.

The first thing I do each day is exercise. I always do so in the morning to keep my mind fresh all day long. It’s so important for your mental health, as well as your physical wellbeing, to stay as active as possible.

Never take success to your head, and never take failure to your heart. My business, Alina Anwar Couture, is now in its fifth year and I’m so proud of what I have achieved. But it has not come easy – I’ve learnt so many lessons on