SERIOUS ABOUT STYLE
APRIL/MAY 2009
15
FACES THAT INSPIRE CATWALK TRENDS
Power Dressing
Why the wives of world leaders are stealing the show
THE DEATH OF DIETS WIN!
A VIP stay in a luxury hotel
ARE WE WITNESSING THE END OF OUR FIXATION WITH THIN?
BLONDE AMBITION
How Agyness Deyn became a catwalk queen THE MAGAZINE OF
10
JUMANA CONTENTS
IN THIS ISSUE april/MAy 2009
style
BURJUMAN BurJuman is the residence of highfashion in Dubai. A haven of luxury shopping, it has the world’s largest concentration of high fashion luxury shopping brands. Here the leading fashion icons mingle comfortably with one another. Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Hermes, Valentino, Prada, Moschino, Dolce and Gabbana, Versace, Emanuel Ungaro, Loewe, Etro, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Christian Lacroix, Salvatore Ferragamo, Just Cavalli, and many more. With over 300 leading fashion stores including SAKS 5th Avenue, you'll always be spoilt for choice.
JUMANA Jumana is a fashion magazine that builds on BurJuman’s reputation as the residence of high fashion in Dubai by offering the city’s residents expert advice on what to wear and how to wear it, from clothes and accessories to make-up. The magazine employs international journalists and local fashion experts to make sure it is always market-leading. All of the products featured in Jumana are available in BurJuman. THE MAGAZINE OF
37
three ways to wear
Take one white blazer and form three fabulous outfits for any occasion.. 39 what to wear for…
must-buys 13 She’s Gotta Have It
The it bag with a bite from Celine. 15 Trends
Embellished beauties, polka dots with pizzazz and fierce animal prints. 27 accessories
Jazz up any outfit with these brooches, belts and killer heels.
a blissful honeymoon in paradise. 40 Fashion Masterclass
Our style expert on how to wear the latest trend for brilliant brights. 43 Letters to the style editor
In need of a fashion fix? Let our style editor sort you out. 44 What a Man Wants
Our man on the catwalk, Andrew Eddleston, on how to keep your partner on trend.
32 Gianni Versace
The fabulous life and tragic demise of a fashion superstar.
11
JUMANA CONTENTS
talk 50 agyness deyn
45 The IT LIST
Lynne Barber meets the model of the moment and charts her meteoric rise.
Ever wondered what inspires a designer? We take you through the muses behind the dresses.
Fashion’s First Lady Why Barack Obama’s better half, Michelle, has designers fawning at her feet.
59
beauty 73 Make-Up Masterclass
Sangita Rajkumari’s step by step guide to achieve 1940’s glamour. 75 Hairstyle Masterclass
Wave goodbye to straight hair with our guide to loose curls.
74
eye candy
Make the most of your eyes by matching eyeshadow to your skintone.
19,680 December 2008 HOT Media Publishing 2008 Box 502565 Dubai UAE Telephone (04) 364 2878 Printed by United Printing Press
66
the end of thin
Mimi Spencer, the author of a new book on our obsession with weight, asks if we’re finally done with dieting... 50
JUMANA BEAUTY
es, people, we are still addicted a generous 10. It was so pathetic, I told loosely be described as diet culture, to thin. The 35,000 diet books myself. But... but... there’s no denying this is what appears to be happening. currently available on Amazon that I loved it. How could I be so A sensory shift. A mood expose our insatiable appetite for the change. shallow? So crass and hypocritical? I look tricks of weight loss, old and new. Not seismic, but certain. Look, at my little girl Lily, now six, and I dearly for example, at the Zoebots – those Thin, writes Susie Orbach in her latest hope she won’t monitor, measure and terrifying acolytes of US stylist Rachel book, is our “visual Muzak”; it’s there gauge her body in the way I have always Zoe, the ones we’ve become used on billboards, in magazines, on music to done ever since adolescence and my first seeing on the paparazzi circuit, with their videos, reading the news, selling us tussle with the zipper on a pencil skirt. huge sunglasses and clattery clavicles. toothpaste, breathing hungrily down Will she hit the blues if she hits 10st? Don’t they look oddly old-fashioned? our sensitive necks - we’ve become Will it all still matter in 20 years, or will Past their sell-by? Zoe herself seems accustomed to thin. Not slim, not we have found something more edifying suddenly grossly out of touch. When she fit, not normal. But thin. We’ve swallowed the line that thin is the peak of achievement, success made flesh (or, to be more accurate, bone). Take Kelly Osbourne’s recent comment “Suddenly everyone likes me because I’ve lost 2st. Why? Was I [horrible] before?” - or comedian Tina Fey, who reveals that she didn’t find fame until her weight had plummeted from 10st 7lb to 8st 7lb. Cheryl Cole may be the rightful darling of the day, but her lip gloss appears to weigh more than she does. (“One day a week I eat whatever I like,” she remarks from beneath all Cover Girls that buoyant hair, and you just know Beth Ditto, Adele and Michelle Obama that she means she allows herself a to occupy the tracts of time between revealed that sometimes she is so busy cappuccino, not a full fry-up with it blossoming puberty and certain death? gets to 7pm and she realises she’s only extra sauté potatoes.) These things have If anything, the signs are that we eaten “a grapefruit and some coffee”, become normal. Hands up who doesn’t may have hit a new low in our dieting I wanted to call up and say: “Haven’t fancy having a go with Alli, the new obsession: a poll recently found that you heard the news? Don’t you know diet pill that leaches fat out of your some women fear weight gain more that deprivation diets are so O-VER? system like a squeegee mop? Hey, an than cancer, which is so tragic it makes Jeez, Rach, how could you be so 2006?” upset stomach is a small price to pay for me want to weep. Where next? Where a smaller pair of jeans. Right? Even at the bleeding edge of style, else ... but up? Could it be that we’ve hit you’ll find signs of an attitude As Orbach argues, body shape - a slim switch. dirt and are ready to redeem ourselves? The most acclaimed magazine launch body, a contained shape - has come to As Barbara Ellen wrote recently: “Maybe of the year - Love, a new define us, a constant hum droning away title from the we are entering what may be termed a Condé Nast stable edited by fashion’s in the engine room of the female psyche. post-Fern era, where society has peaked, reigning monarch Katie Grand - has Even those of us who balk at the idiocy burnt itself out, criticising the female Beth Ditto as its first cover girl. That’s and banality of dieting, even we who form... In simple terms, where female Beth Ditto: 220lb and still smiling. Sure, disdain the methods, can’t help but glory fat is concerned, there is nowhere left it’s a bit of a stunt. But it challenges in actually losing weight. Just recently I to go.” While Ellen argues that the us, us mag-reading mavens, to lost a stone – and it felt like I’d achieved take off spotlight has shifted to men and their our fat goggles and see sense. Sense, something truly great. Something weight, I have a different, more hopeful such as the fact that women come in important. Girlfriends congratulated a take. Once our heroines have reached variety of shapes and sizes. Sense, such me, as if I’d just hiked to the North a tiny size, once we find ourselves at as the recognition that the defining Pole on my knees or discovered a cure rock bottom, isn’t this where a little body shape of recent years (all boy bum for asthma. As if it mattered. All I’d perspective may just start to emerge? and ribcage) is suspect and done was slim down from a cosy 12 unsound. to At the cutting edge of what may Perhaps it’s already sinking in. Adele,
77 tried and tested
The best ways to add gloss to your locks. 80 how i shop
Tips from the top as retail queen Dounyazad Boukri talks us through her shopping habits.
MANAGING DIRECTOR Victoria Hazell-Thatcher victoria@hotmediapublishing.com 04 364 2878
SALES MANAGER Paigon Johnstone 04 375 5229 / 050 557 4017 paigon@hotmediapublishing.com
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Rob Orchard rob@hotmediapublishing.com 04 364 2879
FASHION WRITER Cherith Nicholl
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR John Thatcher john@hotmediapublishing.com 04 364 2876
51
JUMANA BEAUTY
DESIGNER Jenni Dennis PRODUCTION MANAGER Haneef Abdul
CONTRIBUTORS Lesley White, Sangita Rajkumari, Dounyazad Boukri, Lynne Barber, Mimi Spencer, Victoria Calaguian.
Jumana is a bi-monthly magazine published on behalf of BurJuman by HOT Media Publishing. Reproduction without permission is forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsibility from the effect arising therefrom. The views expressed are not necessarily those of BurJuman or HOT Media Publishing
MADE IN KANUHURA/WOOD THE STEPS FROM YOUR VILLA DOWN TO THE WATER; A CHILD DRAWING WITH DRIFTWOOD ON THE SAND; THE MAHOGANY CLASP ON YOUR HEIDI KLEIN BIKINI; THE OLD CHESS SET AT THE HUNDUVARIAN BAR www.kanuhura.com
Kanuhura, The Maldives
4.3째 North, 73.3째 East
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JUMANA ACCESSORIES
She’s gotta have it...
Celine, Dhs57,000 The bag on every girl’s wish list is this scarlet Celine handbag. Made from crocodile skin, it’s guaranteed to look better with age and with a choice of three colours there is one to suit everybody. Consider this an investment piece - it is the perfect day bag, but the rich colour will easily take you into night and the gold trimmings are bang on trend.
trends
pg17 embellishment pg21 polka dot pg24 animal print
Pierre Balmain
JUMANA TRENDS
{
Matthew Williamson mixes a pretty, feminine blouse with rock chic leather for an unusual look
Matthew Williamson
17
what to wear...
embellishment
FORGET THE RULE THAT LESS IS MORE: ADORN YOURSELF WITH AS MUCH BLING AS POSSIBLE
Blumarine
Blumarine
Christian Lacroix
Kenzo
Shine like the star that you are and adorn yourself with sequins and beading galore. With the rule that sequins are strictly for night now broken, you can feel free to don the glitz in time for breakfast a la Rachel Bilson and Beyonce. Mix it up with denim for an edgy, contrasting look that doesn’t feel out of place day or night. With the sun out in force you are sure to catch the light wherever you are.
18
JUMANA TRENDS
{
Edidi, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs16,770
This yellow dress is bang on trend with its vivid color and embellishment: perfect for summer
Dior Price on Request
DKNY Dhs742
...and how to wear it DKNY Dhs1,892
Dolce and Gabbana Dhs5,150
Frances Cossaco Biondini Dhs2,350
Dolce and Gabbana Dhs2,580
Mary Norton, Scarpe Dhs2,370
Pollini Dhs7,630
21
JUMANA TRENDS
House of Holland
House of Holland
{
Henry Holland chose a large polka dot and teamed it with a floral print for a stark contrast
what to wear...
polka dots
Christian Lacroix
Designers are going dotty over the polka dot trend, adorning everything from skirts to accessories. It has been a huge hit on the runway and has started to become a favourite with celebrities such as Demi Moore, who did lady like chic in a polka dot dress at the Berlin Film Festival. Popular in the ’50s, it looks like polka dots have now been given a fashion revival.
EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENT
Giles
Christian Lacroix
BRING VARIETY TO THE TREND
Michael Kors
SIZES OF POLKA DOTS TO
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JUMANA TRENDS
Dolce and Gabbana Dhs1,420
Juicy Couture, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs1,440
DKNY Dhs1,678
Twice, Biondini Dhs1,675
...and how to wear it
{
If you aren’t keen to wear polka dots against bright backgrounds, go for muted tones
Dior Dhs13,050
DKNY Dhs1,246
DKNY Dhs635
Christopher Kane
Christian Dior
Blumarine
FUN TWIST ON THE TREND AND LOOKS GREAT PAIRED WITH THE WACKY YELLOW SKIRT
what to wear...
animal print Release your wild side with funky animal prints. The faint hearted may have upsetting memories of this trend being abused a few years ago but you only need to take the fashion lead from Kate Moss who was spotted wearing a fabulous animal print jacket in London. With bright colours now appearing animal print is far from the dull beige and browns it used to be.
{ Just Cavalli
Cavalli opted for rich jewel colours to create an Eastern look that brought the trend up to date
Blumarine
THIS CHRISTOPHER KANE CARDIGAN PUTS A
{
26
JUMANA TRENDS
This high neck top looks great tucked into a black pencil skirt and teamed with skyscraper peep toe heels
Dior Dhs7,150
Pollini, Dhs6,220
Dolce and Gabbana Dhs1,235
...and how to wear it Furla Dhs275
Gerardina di Maggio, Biondini Dhs1,975
Furla Dhs1,063
DKNY Dhs1,246
accessories
pg29 brilliant belts pg30 dazzling brooches pg31 killer heels
DUBAI Burjuman Centre Tel: +9714 359 4101 Dubai Festival City Tel: +9714 232 6185, Mall of the Emirates Tel: +9714 340 7120 Dubai Outlet Mall Tel: +9714 425 5921 ABU DHABI Abu Dhabi Mall Tel: +9712 645 0315 Fotouh Al Khair Tel: +9712 634 5037 SHARJAH Sahara Centre Tel: +9716 5318240 QATAR Landmark Mall Tel: +974 486 4183 BAHRAIN Seef Mall Tel: +9731 7581793 Bahrain City Centre Tel: +973 17179314 JORDAN City Mall Tel: +962 65885909 RUSSIA - Europeisky Mall
Now open in Dubai Mall First Level, Opp. Aquarium Tel: +971 4 3398786
29
JUMANA ACCESSORIES
Emanuel Ungaro, Etoile Dhs1,340
Pollini, Dhs860
Furla, Dhs810
brilliant bELTS
Show off your figure and emphasise your waistline with a belt. Whether it’s just to spice up jeans or a little black dress, a belt will instantly update a tired wardrobe.
Dior, Dhs1,750
Dior, Dhs4,650
Pollini Dhs530
30
JUMANA ACCESSORIES
Swarovski, Dhs705
Al Washia, Dhs239
dazzling brooches Its time to raid the family jewellery box as brooches are back. Think big and brash and wear them on anything from pashminas to handbag straps.
Al Washia, Dhs349
Furla Dhs595
Swarovski, Dhs575
31
JUMANA ACCESSORIES
Dior, Price on Request Frances Cossaco, Biondini Dhs3,375
Georgina Goodman, Scarpe Dhs2,205 John Galliano, Scarpe Dhs2,970
killer heels
Taller is better this season with skyscraper heels dominating the runway, let your feet do the talking and get experimental with colours and fabrics. Pollini, Dhs2,770
John Galliano, Scarpe Dhs3,525
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JUMANA ICON
fashion icon
GIANNI VERSACE Cherith Nicholl charts the extravagant life and tragic death of the late Gianni Versace On the 16th of July 1997 the world of fashion went into mourning at the untimely demise of the muchloved Gianni Versace. When he was brutally gunned down on the steps of his Miami mansion by serial killer Andrew Cunanan, the future of the Versace brand looked uncertain. Not only did it lose the vision behind it but also a man who sought to reinvent fashion - from the comeback of the mini skirt to the revival of the catsuit and the introduction of bustiers worn as outer garments. A dark cloud formed over the Versace family who took strength from Gianni’s passion for clothing to push the fashion house onwards despite the grisly circumstances. Born in 1946 in Reggio Calabria, Italy, Gianni absorbed himself in his mother’s small tailoring shop. Obsessed with the wealthy women frequenting the shop and the skill involved in creating clothes to hug the female body, Versace knew from an early age that he was destined
to be involved in fashion design. He was often heard commenting that his dream was ‘always to be a composer but fashion came very easily.’ Oddly enough he chose to study architectural drafting while fuelling his passion by acting as a buyer for his mother, giving him the opportunity to attend European fashion shows and familiarise himself with the brands he would later rival. At the beginning of his journey into designing in the early 1970s Milan was just emerging as a fashion capital. It provided the perfect playground for him to establish himself as, to quote Time magazine, ‘the youngest of Milan’s young fashion tyrants.’ He was summoned to Milan in 1972 to hastily create a line for the Florentine Flowers Clothing Mill, and this ‘rush job’ proved to be the launch pad for his career. By 1974 he had created his own label, ‘Complice’, and began experimenting with an all-leather collection, creating a buzz within the fashion world. Although he was not working under his own name it was not long before he gained the fame he craved. Versace’s brother Santo proved a necessary force in forging the Versace name as a business when he took it upon himself to leave his management consultant practice and gain a degree in business administration. Recognising his brother’s talent, he persuaded him
33
JUMANA ICON
“Don’t make fashion own you but you decide who you are, what you want to express by the way you dress” Gianni Versace
34
JUMANA ICON
to register the family name and begin designing under it, and Gianni Versace Spa was formed in 1978. The brothers were joined by Donatella, cementing the idea that it was and would remain a family business. To this day Versace remains one of the few family-based fashion houses that have complete control of the production cycle, from design to retailing. Versace is perhaps best known for his revolutionary metal mesh dresses. In creating them he was influenced heavily by the punk fashions that were emerging from London at the time. With a vision in place he had to work out a way to interpret it into a reality so he began to work closely with German engineers to create a fabric that would have a metallic look but be wearable. Hence, oroton was conceived – a fluid metal mesh fabric which allowed Versace to create his dream dresses. This concept has rooted itself in fashion history as firmly as Chanel’s little black dress and Louis Vuitton’s classic luggage trunks. Versace was known for opulence and decadence and was heavily concerned about how he looked – some would maintain it was vanity and others paranoia. The iconic Miami Vice look
designed by Versace (the t-shirt and pastel jacket combination) set the tone for a decade of fast living. While he did not escape criticism for his lifestyle or work, when he encountered it he simply removed the problem. Editors such as Suzy Menkes, fashion editor for over twenty years at the International Herald Tribune, was banned from Versace shows after criticising a collection. Jokes began circulating that Versace was fashion’s answer to Mussolini, the Italian dictator, as his shows were often attended by his henchmen who would listen for criticism. Another concept was coined by Versace in 1991 with the creation of ‘the supermodel.’ Four figures strode out on the catwalk miming along to George Michael’s ‘Freedom’ with their arms linked – previously they were well known models but after that show they became known as ‘supermodels.’ Those girls – Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington – became the four biggest names in modeling, and arguably remain so today with few following in their footsteps. In 1994 a virtually unknown woman accompanied Hugh Grant to the London
Versace’s Vixens
Celebrity followers of Versace include Jennifer Lopez, Anjelina Jolie and Marisa Tomei. Jolie is usually seen in strapless black gowns, a contrast to the elaborate white satin dress Tomei wore to the 2009 Oscars which included a huge train and fishtail skirt.
35
JUMANA ICON
premiere of his new film, ‘Four Weddings and a Funeral.’ The invitation had encouraged guests to dress as though they were going to a wedding, and there was only one item left in the Versace press office that she could borrow. She wore a daring gown held together by 24 safety pins. The next day she dominated the press, attracting more attention than her boyfriend and the gown swiftly became known as ‘that dress.’ It catapulted Liz Hurley to stardom and helped establish her as a celebrity in her own right – she was to land a plum contract as the face of Estee Lauder on the back of the frenzied publicity. The dress showed Versace’s attitude to fashion – fearless. He was famously quoted as saying ‘in the past people were born royal. Nowadays royalty comes from what you do.’ Elton John is perhaps known as much for his flamboyant stage costumes as for his music and many of these in the late ’80s to ’90s were created by Versace. Versace’s love of theatre and performing arts led him to do a sideline in costume design,
an entirely different side to the revealing catwalk collections he was also producing. Elton was one of the many celebrity guests who attended the memorial service in Milan following Versace’s brutal murder. He was comforted throughout the service by Princess Diana, little knowing that he
biggest names such as Giorgio Armani, Tai Missoni and Carla Fendi also attended, showing respect for a man who pioneered the idea of a family brand and designed without restraint. While the service took place the police continued their hunt for Andrew Cunanan who they would later find dead following his suicide. Cunanan’s motive for targeting Versace has never been known but some believe he claimed to have met him in a nightclub after Versace mistook him for an acquaintance from Lake Como, a chance meeting that sparked Cunanan’s obsession. In the aftermath of Versace’s passing, Donatella was appointed as head of design and Santo as CEO in a bid to forge ahead with business as usual. Donatella has since proved her worth as a designer with her collections receiving glowing reviews. Versace left most of his empire to Donatella’s daughter Allegra, who is currently battling anorexia, in the hope that the business will remain within the family.
Versace was known for opulence and decadence and was heavily concerned about how he looked would be attending her premature funeral just a month later. Versace had openly admired the princess’ style and named a handbag after her simply titled the ‘Lady Di’. Naomi Campbell was said to be so distraught with grief at Versace’s death that she had to be physically supported after collapsing in hysterics. Fashion’s
36
JUMANA ICON
In 2000 Jennifer Lopez wore a tropical print dress that was slashed to the navel – this was perhaps the last of the risqué Versace designs and soon afterwards Donatella started taking things in a more subdued direction. Take a look at the style of Penelope Cruz in 2007 when she attended the Academy Awards and you’ll see that the emphasis is on the materials used while the designs are much simpler. In Donatella’s own words she had ‘taken away ornaments, obvious expressions of sexiness, sheer things, showing legs… everything is covered and subtle and that’s my way, to go in a new direction.’ As a designer Versace pushed limits and today his brand is not known only for its clothing but also for its cosmetics, perfumes and even the opulent Palazzo Versace Hotel. It has maintained the vision Versace laid down and continues to grow as more members of the family become involved. The brand has flowed into the next generation with Santo’s daughter, Francesca, following the family passion and becoming a designer. Her collections have received acclaim and she looks set
to put her own stamp on the brand. After she didn’t receive any of her uncle’s inheritance it is bittersweet that she is doing so well. She has even refused to trade off the family name, instead opting for the much simpler Francesca V. With designs that many deemed risqué Versace took a risk and aimed to bring sensuality back to women. Provocative for some, liberating for others, the message was clear – don’t feel you must dress to hide away, do what makes you feel amazing. Versace himself took pride in his own personal style and promoted the idea that you should explore your own ideas: ‘Don’t be into trends’ he said. ‘Don’t make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way to live.’ Versace died but the show goes on.
With designs that many deemed risqué Versace took a risk and aimed to bring sensuality back to women
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JUMANA STYLE
3 ways to wear...
a white blazer Easy ways to change the look of a white blazer, that staple piece of day and evening wear...
office
daytime
evening
DKNY Dhs238
Dolce and Gabbana Dhs2,285
Trina Turk, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs1,355
Genetic Denim, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs1,010
Natorious, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs1,240
Al Washia Dhs39
Dolce and Gabbana Dhs695
Robert Rodriguez, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs1,595
Aldo, Dhs150
Celine Dhs5,295 Biodini Dhs2,450
Furla Dhs885 Celine Dhs1,500
Aldo DhsTBC Mary Norton, Scarpe Dhs2,670
Wedding@LeTouessrok Bride pampered and groom relaxed in a calming Givenchy spa; ceremony or reception on a private island beach; honeymoon in an exquisite ocean suite that you won’t want to leave; an impeccable butler service that means you won’t need to leave it www.letouessrokresort.com
39
JUMANA STYLE
what to wear on...
your honeymoon in paradise
Compile the perfect capsule wardrobe to take with you on the ultimate romantic holiday...
Aldo, Dhs50
Hermanny, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs755
Hermanny, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs850
Replay, Dhs1,185 Celine, Dhs1,980
Diesel, Dhs365
Furla, Dhs1,625
and where to wear it
Kanuhura, Maldives
Our tip to make the most of this gorgeous hideaway? Book an amazing water villa and lose the shoes.
Le Touessrok. Mauritius
Chic, stylish and oh so cool, this Mauritian institution is where fashionistas flock for a luxury love-in.
Four Seasons, Seychelles
The Four Seasons only swung open its doors last month but its tree-house villas are already a must-stay.
Sofitel Seminyak, Bali Spread along private, pristine white sands, this resort boasts the ultimate in indulgent abodes - the spa suite.
Pangkor Laut Resort, Malasyia
Championed by the travel press as one of the world’s premier resorts, this is guarantted to melt your heart.
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JUMANA STYLE
Dior
1. Find the right shade for you
This season’s leading trend is bright colours. People often tend to shy away from these, believing them to be too difficult to wear. In fact they can work easily when worn cleverly. First, identify which colour works best with your skin tone – darker skin tones are fortunate enough to get away with most of the citrus colours, so don’t be afraid to go bold. If you are pale you will probably find that orange tones will make you look washed out: however, just because one shade does not suit you doesn’t mean that none of them will. Experiment until you find a colour that works for you, holding them up by your face so you can get an idea of how they will complement your complexion. If you find a bright colour too draining then wear it away from your face – for example, a neutral top paired with a bright skirt – this way you can get the effect without it making you look ill!
which has a darker background – this is a good idea if you are new to wearing bright colours. Most bright colours look great when teamed with black – not only will it help the colour to ‘pop’, but you will also probably feel more comfortable. By mixing the bright item with darker items you’ll also give your wardrobe a makeover without spending a fortune – for example, a bright top can instantly change the look of a black suit.
masterclass
Brilliant Brights The simple steps to perfect clashing colours and bold brights…
2. Tone it down
Avoid dressing from head to toe in bright colours, as you will end up looking garish. Pick one colour and mix it with a colour of a softer hue to help tone it down. Alternatively, try a print
3. Accessorise
Another way to introduce bright colours into your wardrobe is through accessories. This is the perfect way to wear the trend if you are apprehensive about it. Simply invest in some bright clutch bags and belts, which will help a dark-coloured outfit look a bit more fun and less sombre. Alternatively, follow the current trend for statement jewellery and go for bold pieces in bright colours, such as chunky bangles and oversized necklaces. The important thing about the look is to feel free to experiment but not to overdo it. Often colours that you don’t expect to match can together work well – it is usually the case that contrasting block colours can look great and effortless. Bright colours are a fun trend and one that can be played up or down depending on how brave you are.
must-haves
Etoile Dhs3700
Traffic People, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs595 Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs710
Etoile Dhs3470
La Plage, Biodini Dhs1350
Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs115
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JUMANA STYLE
how to dress for your body shape
skirts
Show off your legs to their best advantage by choosing the right skirt shape for your figure...
Dior Dhs15,800
petite
Pollini Dhs2,240
tall
curvy
Tilda Swinton
Eva Longoria
If you have a boyish figure, opt for a skirt that has volume to create the illusion of curves. A skirt with a broad waistband will emphasise it and fabrics such as tulle not only move fantastically but help keep the look feminine.
Jean Paul Gaultier, Etoile Dhs1500
Vivienne Tam, Saks Fifth Avenue Dhs1,030
If you are tall you should choose a longer skirt or opt for a range for taller ladies as it will be tailored to fit you better. Avoid clingy fabrics and mini-skirts, they will look more trashy than trendy and can make you look ungainly.
Celine Dhs1710
Make the most of your curves and go for a pencil skirt. If it is cut correctly it will enhance an hour-glass figure. Make sure you buy the correct size - if it is too small it will pull at the hips and not only look but feel uncomfortable.
Emanuel Ungaro, Etoile Dhs3480
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JUMANA STYLE
BurJuman style stakes
Tips From The Top
The winners of this year’s BurJuman Style Stakes shared close to Dhs90,000 worth of prizes as their keen sense of style caught the eye. So what’s the secret of their success?
Best-Dressed Lady
OLIVIA HAGUE
Originating from the fantastic shopping city of Melbourne, Olivia is no stranger to fashion. She admires the style of classic beauties like Kate Winslet and prefers to keep her own style quite classic too. She believes that you should dress appropriately for social situations by keeping hemlines at a suitable length. And she draws inspiration from the cultural melting pot that is Dubai, fusing Middle Eastern culture with classic European styles.
Best Hat
LISA BALSOM
When Lisa began to think of ideas for her race day outfit she knew she wanted to base it around style icon Audrey Hepburn. And after buying her dress she took it to milliner Karen Hamilton who created the winning hat to match it. Lisa’s style tips include wearing your clothes with confidence, believing that it instantly changes the look of an outfit. She is also an advocate of buying key pieces and not slavishly following trends.
Best-Dressed Couple
DAVID & ABI FERREIRA BURGESS
Abi cites Victoria Beckham as one of her style icons and loves to shop for figure-hugging outfits. She does insist, though, that there is a fine line between classy and trashy when it comes to wearing a tight dress. Her rule of thumb? If it’s not comfortable to wear it probably doesn’t look good. David, meanwhile, thinks men should invest in a high-quality suit and a striking tie.
Runner-up, Best-Dressed Lady
NADIA RODICHEVA
Nadia is a lady who loves to shop, and cites London as being one of her favourite places to go for fabulous designer buys. She is an advocate of keeping up with trends and favours clothes that have structure and a cutting-edge look. She prefers to steer clear of strictly traditional items and suggests that you shouldn’t be afraid to embrace colours that make you stand out from the crowd.
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fashion clinic
letters to the style editor To get your fashion dilemmas solved, email our style editor at styleeditor@hotmediapublishing.com
I HAVE A BEACH WEDDING COMING UP AND AM UNSURE OF HOW DRESSY I NEED TO BE: WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE? Beach weddings can be difficult to judge as often the reception will be in a hotel afterwards. Stick with light colours and flowing fabrics as you will be in the sun for the ceremony. High heels can be a problem as they will sink into the sand, so why not wear some jewelled flip-flops for the ceremony and swap to high heels for the reception? Manolo Blahnik have some stunning flip-flops that are dressy enough to wear right through the day. Try a hair grip with fresh flowers attached to provide a change from the race-style hats and fascinators.
I AM GOING ON A CRUISE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT SPACE IN CABINS IS LIMITED AND SO I WANT TO KEEP MY LUGGAGE TO A MINIMUM. WHAT KEY PIECES DO I NEED TO BRING? Evening dining on a cruise is a dressy affair so make sure you pack several glam dresses – a cocktail dress teamed with heels is perfect. Choose a pair of heels in a neutral colour that will go with all your dresses, for example silver – that way you won’t take up space with three or four pairs. Accessories are small and light and can instantly change an outfit so be sure to pack a variety of necklaces and earrings.
During the day you will not need anything other than bikinis, shorts and vest tops. Sundresses are perfect for day trips and will not take up much space: choose a neutral pair of gladiatorstyle sandals which are not only stylish but comfortable. I WANT TO BUY A BIKINI THAT IS PRACTICAL AND FITS WELL BUT IS ALSO STYLISH – HOW DO I CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE? Buying the right bikini is harder than it looks as it’s important to find one that flatters your shape. Boyish figures look great with shorts-style bottoms and halterneck tops – the
halterneck will help create a cleavage. If you are heavier on top make sure you choose one with underwiring, as it will give you a better shape and some support. Make sure you try it on before purchasing – take along a friend and ask their opinion. Don’t be afraid to introduce some bling into your swimwear, for example a plain black bikini can instantly gain the wow factor if it has some diamante detail on the sides. Most designers now carry a range of swimwear if you want something more unique. Coordinate your sarong with your swimwear to give you a more polished look – just because you are at the beach doesn’t mean you have to look ‘thrown together’. WITH SUMMER APPROACHING THE SHOPS SEEM TO BE FILLING UP WITH WHITE CLOTHING – HOW CAN I WEAR IT WITHOUT IT LOOKING TACKY? White looks great in summer and is the perfect colour to set off a tan but it’s important to invest in good quality pieces which are not see-through. Don’t wear white top to toe as this look is too extreme and can seem tacky. Mixing white with other colours helps to avoid this: for example, white trousers and a striped top taps into the nautical trend. Alternatively try mixing white with gold accessories which will further enhance your tan – a great look for summer evenings. Look for fabrics such as cotton which will look and feel breezy and cool.
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MADE IN THE SHADE
THESE SHADES FROM DIOR WILL LOOK FANTASTIC TEAMED WITH ANY OUTFIT. THE TOPGUN AVIATORS HAVE BEEN GIVEN A FULL AND FRESH MAKEOVER, SO RE X - THERE’S NO CHANCE HE’LL LOOK LIKE AN 80’S REJECT...
BAGS OF STYLE
If he needs some encouragement to whisk you off on a romantic weekend break, why not invest in this stylish weekend bag from Paul Smith? It’s a simple design in a neutral colour - perfect for the less adventurous man. It can even be doubled up as a fashionable alternative to a gym bag.
Good Jeans Dressing down doesn’t have to mean a boring shorts and t-shirt combo thanks to the release of Replay’s new menswear collection. It teams their trademark jean designs with loose waistcoats that look great over a shirt or a t-shirt: he’ll be sure to do weekend chic at its best.
family
what a man wants Jumana’s male fashion expert Andrew Eddleston gives you the lowdown on what really makes men happy…
Smooth Talker No man likes to be told he is ageing so why not subtly help him out by treating him to some Biotherm goodies? Their new Force Supreme Neutralizer instantly smoothes out visible wrinkles to great effect.
SCENT AND SENSIBILITY We all know that aftershave will get a man noticed - however it is important it is for all the right reasons. Tommy Hilfiger have just released ‘Hilfiger’, which claims to be for the man who likes to live life on the edge. Its clean and distinctive scent makes it a powerful hit that looks set to become a classic: bag your gentleman a bottle today.
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the it list
FASHION’S FAVOURITE MUSES Cherith Nicholl charts the 15 fashionistas who inspire the world’s leading designers.
1. Hermès & Jane Birkin
The Hermès Birkin bag is probably the most coveted and famous handbag in the world. It is said to have originated when actress Jane Birkin complained to the president of Hermès during a flight that she could never find a handbag roomy and durable enough to use when traveling. Six months later she was presented with the Birkin bag, which now has a five year waiting list. The most expensive Birkin bag sold at auction for $64,800 thanks in part to its diamondencrusted lock. The Birkin is in fact the second Hermès bag to carry a celebrity name – the first was The Kelly bag, named after Princess Grace of Monaco.
2.Givenchy & Audrey Hepburn
When Hubert Givenchy was told he was designing for Katherine Hepburn he was overjoyed. But when Audrey Hepburn arrived for their first meeting he couldn’t hide his disappointment.
Their meeting, however, would be the start of Audrey inspiring him for almost 40 years. She had originally wanted the designer of the moment – Balenciaga – to design her wardrobe for ‘Sabrina’, but he turned her away. Givenchy designed the iconic black dress for her character Holly Golightly in ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’, catapulting the black dress and pearls combo into the forefront as the uniform of the fashion set. Audrey continued to fly from Switzerland to Paris to appear in the front row at Givenchy’s shows until shortly before her death.
3.Galliano & Charlize Theron
Charlize Theron fronts the campaign for the J’Adore perfume by Dior and Galliano has created countless red carpet gowns for her after citing her as his muse. Galliano believes that the Dior woman should be ‘strong-willed, in control of her own destiny and with an innate sense of style.’ Charlize received acclaim for her convincing role as a serial killer in ‘Monster’ and was
named a United Nations Messenger of Peace with a special emphasis on violence towards women. Galliano’s previous muse was socialite Brooke de Ocampo.
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5.Alexander Wang & Erin Wasson/Alice Dellal
Texan model Wasson not only kept Wang company in his studio on a daily basis but also styled fashion shoots and shows for him for two seasons, earning the title of muse. When she began to diversify and design her own jewellery line Wang became disgruntled and dumped her as his muse. She was replaced with Alice Dellal, a grungey heiress and model with an unusual look not in keeping with the usual models gracing the catwalks (she has one side of her head shaved). Dellal has a colourful life away from the cameras and is often viewed as being rebellious and extreme. It’s a partnership that’s sure to cause drama in the fashion world.
6.Yves Saint Laurent & Betty Catroux Dubbed by Saint Laurent as his ‘twin sister’ and ‘female incarnation’, Betty Catroux formed a close friendship with
Karl Lagerfeld & Amanda Harlech
Lagerfeld took over Chanel 24 years ago, and Harlech has been his professional and personal muse for half of that time. He has said of her that she is his ‘outside pair of eyes’ in that he trusts her vision as much as his own – a high standard to live up to. It’s a family tradition that has lived on in Harlech’s daughter, Tallulah, who is now often seen wearing Lagerfeld’s clothes and has been dubbed by some as his mini-muse.
him after they met in a Parisian nightclub. She was so close to him that she was present at his death after a battle with brain cancer. When asked why she didn’t design her own clothing line, as is the norm for many muses, she replied that she had no interest in fashion and never had. Her trademark uniform of trousers, t-shirt and a blazer helped promote the YSL revolution and encourage women to wear trousers. She was incredibly aware of the impact that she had on the brand and when attending an exhibition to celebrate Saint Laurent she commented that she was ‘the Yves Saint Laurent Girl, for a long time and forever.’
7.Zac Posen & Natalie Portman
Posen owes much of his precocious fame (he came on to the scene at the young age of 22, almost unheard of for new designers) to actress Natalie Portman. When she wore a Posen dress to the London premiere of Star Wars: Episode II in 2002 his name was thrown into the media spotlight. Portman has continued to wear his creations and he has credited her as being the inspiration behind many of his creations. Portman says of his designs, ‘Zac’s clothes are classical and elegant but also made for young people.’
Portman continues to champion Posen and is often spotted in the front row at his fashion shows.
8.Philip Treacy & Isabella Blow
Undoubtedly one of the most eccentric characters in fashion, Isabella Blow is responsible for discovering Sophie Dahl
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and Alexander McQueen (she loved his graduate collection so much that she purchased all of it). Treacy has been quoted saying that with Isabella it was always ‘you haven’t gone too far, you haven’t gone far enough.’ They met in 1989 and since then Treacy used Blow for inspiration until her death in 2007, even designing a hat to look like her home. Blow was also assistant to American Vogue editor Anna Wintour who praised her flamboyant style and unique skill at spotting new talent.
9.PPQ & Peaches Geldof
With Geldof already a devoted fan of the funky label, it is no surprise that she took to the runway for them in 2007. Geldof has now combined with designers Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker to create her own line for PPQ as she believes she knows the aesthetic of the brand so well. They were equally thrilled to work with her, claiming that they had ‘provided her with everything a girl needs to party in,
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and now we have put our heads together and taken things to that next step.’ With Peaches’ rollercoaster personal life she has catapulted herself into the media spotlight and given the brand a publicity boost, and the new romantic, gothic look of her range embodies her style and personality.
10.Alexander McQueen & Leila Moss
Thanks to her surname, Leila Moss was always going to draw parallels between herself and the other Moss. As the lead singer for punk band The Duke Spirit, her style is edgy and reminiscent of Debbie Harry. She confesses that when she started with the band she took on a tomboy style that graduated into the rock chic look she is known for today. McQueen says of Moss that
Carolina Herrera & Renee Zelwegger It’s not often a designer will offer to make your wedding dress but as Zelwegger is firmly established as Herrera’s muse it was almost expected. She loved her 2005 red column dress that she wore to the Oscars to the extent that she had it remade in white for her wedding to country singer Kenny Chesney. Whether she has put on weight for her role as Bridget Jones or is back to her super svelte self Herrera creates gowns to hug her curves and enhance her figure.
she ‘has the uttermost feeling of McQ. She’s a great-looking girl and has personal style.’
11.Coco Chanel & Vera Bate Lombardi
In 1925 Lombardi became not only Chanel’s muse but also her public relations liaison to a number of European Royal families. Lombardi’s extensive list of contacts made it possible for Chanel to build her fashion house and gain a wealthy client base. After a four year break during WWII Chanel tried to arrange a meeting with Lombardi’s relative, Winston Churchill, and when she was turned down Lombardi found herself thrown into a Roman jail on suspicion of being an English spy. It was after these events that their relationship deteriorated, and was worsened when Chanel herself was arrested on suspicion of war crimes.
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14.Marc Jacobs & Sophia Coppola
Film director Sophia Coppola is as much known for being a muse to Jacobs as she is for the direction of hit film ‘Lost in Translation.’ In 2002 he handpicked her to be the face of his fashion house’s fragrance and the friendship has since blossomed. He was originally attracted to her as he found her to be ‘young and sweet and beautiful, the epitome of the girl I fantasise about.’ She has added another string to her bow by designing a range of handbags and shoes with Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton.
Donna Karan & Kate Moss Donna Karan not only picked Moss to be the new face of her brand but has also used her as a muse. It’s an unlikely combo - Moss is often seen with unkempt hair and a bohemian style, a contrast to Karan’s polished and classic pieces. Karan is said to be impressed not only with how Moss looks but also her attitude - she says that Moss is ‘somebody who has the energy to hang out in the streets, to dance…a woman who [lives] in that rawness but with a polish at the same time.’ Moss has proved a popular choice and Karan has renewed her contract as the face of the brand.
15.Henry Holland & Agyness Deyn
British designer Henry Holland is rarely seen without best friend and muse, Agyness Deyn, hanging off his arm. Both known for non-conformity in fashion and a quirky style, they have heralded the arrival of a new generation of fashionistas. Holland, known for his slogan t-shirts, openly admits that having Deyn as a friend has boosted his brand but insists they are friends first. Growing up in the same village together they met at the age of 13 and continued the friendship by moving into a flat together at 19. The pair remained close after Deyn moved to New York to pursue her modeling career and she is a regular feature on the catwalk at his shows.
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what’s it like to be...
an abaya designer Shehna Hussain talks to us about her passion for fashion and how she goes about creating her stunning abayas...
HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT THE ARGUMENT THAT ABAYAS SHOULD NOT BE ADORNED? I agree that an abaya should not just be worn as a fashion trend. However, it is down to the individual to decide how adorned it should be. Even if you don’t want any embroidery or crystals at least make sure the silhouette is good so it is not totally shapeless: this is really important and can make such a difference to the abaya. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE YOU TO CREATE AN ABAYA AND HOW OFTEN DO YOU DO IT? It all depends on just how intricate the abaya is. Naturally the more embroidery that is on it the longer it will take, but
I agree that an abaya should not just be worn as a fashion trend... it is down to the individual to decide how adorned it should be HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DESIGNING ABAYAS AND HOW DID YOU GET INTO IT? I have been designing for roughly three years. I have always had a passion for fashion and pursued this through a fashion design degree at Manipal Academy in Dubai where I found my niche to be abayas. I won the best collection award which spurred me on to make designing my profession. WHERE DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION FROM? I find that history inspires me the most. I will look at different eras and use the artwork from that time, or the fashion itself, and put that into my designs. I love to paint directly onto my
abayas and find that some of the best I’ve created are the Greek-inspired abayas. I also look to India and use that style of embroidery while mixing it with Swarovski crystals to get an eclectic look.
normally it takes around two weeks of constant work. Similarily, the prices will change with the amount of work involved. It’s Dhs2,000 for a basic abaya with minimal work.
DO YOU FEEL THE ABAYA IS BECOMING LESS RELEVANT AMONG THE YOUNGER GENERATION? Not really - many of my clients are young women. They treat the abaya like it is a fashion trend rather than something they have to wear. They come to me with ideas of exactly how they want it to look and we work together to make it happen. Many of my clients feel more dressed up in an abaya and enjoy the attention that a well-designed abaya will draw.
WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT SKILLS THAT AN ABAYA DESIGNER NEEDS? I think that it is really important to have good embroidery skills, this is invaluable. Creativity is also a very obvious skill to have, but you don’t have to be trained as a designer to have good ideas or to design. Develop your own sense of style and you will start to see what looks good together and what colours complement each other.
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When the celebrity supermodel phenomenon ground to a halt, fashion went super-dull. The catwalks were filled with a parade of nameless, faceless, homogenous clothes horses. No one knew who the new models were, and no one cared. Then came Agyness Deyn. Lynn Barber meets the Lancashire girl turned international style icon
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ust before Christmas, I went to a daffy treasure hunt hosted by Katie Grand, who founded Pop magazine and recently launched Love. It was held at the Royal Academy and there was a great mob of paparazzi outside so I asked who they were waiting for. They said Ag, which wasn’t very helpful, but I found out later they were waiting for the model Agyness Deyn, 25, who is supposed to be ‘the new Kate Moss’. Of course she is not remotely like Kate Moss either in looks or in character, but she is the latest English model to take the world by storm. I found her wearing a pink satin dress, which Giles Deacon made her for the party, sipping tea with her friends, but when Grand introduced us, Deyn leapt to her feet with the sort of old-fashioned good manners I thought no one learned any more. She was friendly and sweet, so when Grand suggested I interview her, we arranged to meet at the Russian Tea Room in Primrose Hill. She looked extremely pretty at the Katie Grand party, but next
morning, in the Russian Tea Room, she looked utterly amazing. She was wearing a man’s black jacket and denim shirt, with a red beret perched on her platinum hair, her pale porcelain skin set off by black Alistair Darling eyebrows, her long long long legs encased in red snakeskin jeans ending in patent Doc Martens. Her delicate, almost ethereal beauty reminds me a bit of the young Debbie Harry, but she says her idol as a teenager was the model Stella Tennant she liked her beetling eyebrows, pierced nose and unconventional attitude.
her boyfriend, Albert Hammond Jr of the Strokes, and her two dogs. Given that she is obviously such a sensible down-to-earth Mancunian lass, why does she have such an irritatingly affected name? It sounds all right pronounced Agnes Dean (Agnes was her grandmother’s name) - but then the silly spelling makes it an anagram of Deny Gayness, which is daft. Why couldn’t she have stayed Laura Hollins? But she changed her name long before she started modelling, and explains as follows: ‘I was into numerology at the time, and I was talking to my mum about it and saying: “Mum, I’m thinking of changing my name because I’ve added up all the numbers and I think I want to change it.” And we were actually in a health food shop and walking round the aisles and we get to the counter still talking about it and on the counter was a magazine that said: “Change your name, change your life.” And I was, like: “It’s a sign!” So then I decided: “Right, I’ll change.”’ I stare at her blankly. Does she really believe all that stuff? ‘Well, it’s not like your name is set in stone. I’m the kind of person that is not really attached to anything - I would never be attached to a name or a dress or a house or a car - so whatever makes you happy. And at that point in time I was like, wow!’ Nobody in the family calls her Laura any more, and her mother and sister have also changed their names. Maybe she just wanted to shed her father’s name. Her father works for the Royal Mail; her mother is an ENT nursing specialist at Liverpool Hope Hospital. Despite being practising Roman Catholics, they divorced when Agyness - or Laura in those days - was 12 or 13. Was that upsetting? ‘Yeah. Yeah it was. But I was always quite quiet - I was never really a drama queen, so I kind of, like, blocked it out.’ Her mother remarried and Deyn talks fondly of her stepfather, who works as a food technologist. But when I ask
Agyness was wearing a man’s black jacket and denim shirt, with a red beret perched on her platinum hair, her pale porcelain skin set off by black Alistair Darling eyebrows Talking in her flat Rochdale accent, she explains that she always uses Primrose Hill as her base in London because she used to have a flat here and nowadays stays with a friend round the corner. She has lived in New York for the past three years but had come over to London for the Katie Grand party and a Mystery Jets gig and was planning to spend a few days hanging out with friends before going to stay with her parents (her mother and stepfather) in Manchester and catching up with her elder brother, a pilot, and her younger sister, an artist. Then back to New York to spend Christmas with
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about her father, her beautiful eyes fill with tears. ‘He remarried and stuff, but I don’t really see him that much. Every now and then. It is sad. But sometimes it goes so far, you can never get back, you know?’ She was born in Littleborough, near Rochdale; she grew up in Rawtenstall, Lancashire and went to a Catholic school where her favourite subjects were music and drama and, more surprisingly, maths and business studies. She claims to love maths, and I imagine she has a good financial head on her shoulders. Her mother encouraged all three of the children to take part-time jobs to pay for their extras, and one of her jobs was in the local fish and chip shop a fact the tabloids will never let her forget. When she was voted Model of the Year at the 2007 British Fashion Awards, the Manchester Evening News produced the immortal headline: ‘Chippie girl to conquer the world’. The great influence in her childhood, apart from her mother, was Henry Holland, her best friend. They met when they were about 13, and he remembers being struck by ‘just this huge big smile, with braces on her teeth, and the fact she was so sweet and friendly’. He, Deyn and another friend called Jessica Fletcher, who now works with Holland on his fashion label House of Holland, spent their teens hanging out together they all had their heads shaved and they’d sit in the pub and people would stare at them. When Holland moved to London to study fashion journalism, Deyn missed him so much she kept going to London to stay with him. He was living in university halls of residence
where he wasn’t allowed to have guests overnight but he used to sneak her in. Holland remembers that her style changed when she came to London and discovered charity shops and car-boot
sales. ‘Up north, it’s much more about labels. In London she started to develop her own style.’ And in one of her forays to a charity shop in Kentish Town she was spotted by a model scout, who signed
her up. ‘And then everything just kind of happened,’ recalls Deyn. ‘It’s really funny, because both of us have always been such dreamers, and Henry would say: “When you’re a famous model” and I’d say: “When you’re a famous fashion editor”, and then I was signed up by a model agency and he became fashion editor of Smash Hits, which was one of his dreams. So it was like we were ticking them off the list, and it was kind of: whoa, this is strange!’ She was 19, still intending to go to university, when she started modelling. She loved the work. ‘It didn’t matter what the job was - I loved it, I just loved it.’ But she hated all the gosees and inevitable rejections. ‘I used to go around London seeing clients, and you used to have to queue up for an hour with all these other girls to get a job and then you wouldn’t get it, or you’d be down to the last two for a job and you wouldn’t get it. But you just have to take that on the chin. People used to get really competitive with each other, but you know, no one looks the same, so it just depends on what they’re looking for.’ But it forced her to grow up quite quickly. ‘I think modelling was like the university of life, really. You get to travel but you get thrown into this adult world, which is kind of quite scary.’ She remembers one particular trip abroad when no one spoke to her and she felt very isolated. ‘It can be really lonely sometimes if they don’t talk to you and it was, like, a week. But there were lads on the shoot as well and they were great, so I just hung out with them. I’ve always got on with lads, more than I have with girls.’ As a model based in London she was in demand, but mainly for poorly paid
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editorial work, and she often had to take bar jobs to make ends meet. It was only when she moved to New York three years ago that her career really took off. This was all thanks to Katie Grand, she says - ‘She’s great. She’s been a real mentor for me.’ Deyn had been sent to New York on a photo shoot for a British magazine and Katie Grand saw her sitting in a café and asked what New York agent she was with. Deyn said she didn’t have a New York agent, so Katie Grand took a napkin and wrote down the number of the DNA agency and said: ‘Ring Louie [Chaban].’ So that’s what Deyn did, and that’s when her career took off. She walked into the agency and the receptionist said, ‘Oh sorry, but we don’t do walk-ins.’ Deyn wailed: ‘Oh, but I’m going home tomorrow and I don’t think I’ll ever be coming back!’ So the receptionist went round the back, where Louie was having lunch, and said: ‘You should really see this girl’, and he groaned but came out and saw Deyn and immediately said he’d like to represent her. But when she told her English agency that she’d signed with a New York agent, they sacked her. So then she moved to New York and went
to work for Louie, who totally supported her. In London, she recalls, her agency was always telling her to look more feminine, to wear heels and dresses, but when she asked Louie what to wear for her first casting, he said: ‘I don’t care what you wear - wear what you’re wearing now.’ ‘And I was wearing Doc Martens and a ripped-up T-shirt and I thought: “Brilliant! I can just be myself!” And going to New York made me think: “OK, this is a career now.”’ She likes New York so much she’ll probably stay there. She says it’s much easier working there, and she loves the way of life. And of course her boyfriend Albert Hammond Jr is American. When I ask how long she has been going out with him, she says promptly: ‘Since May 31st - that was our first date.’ He is only her third boyfriend ever. ‘I had one boyfriend from when I was 12 all the way through school and college, and then we split up and I went out with
Josh [Hubbard, of the Paddingtons] for four years and, like, now I’m with Albert.’ Had she already split up with Josh Hubbard? ‘Yes, a few months before we’d officially split up, but it’s hard, you know - you don’t see each other for six months because we lived in different places and were both working [he lives in Hull]. It was kind of like a mutual decision.’ So it wasn’t too heartbreaking? ‘Oh it was. Because you’re with someone for so long and they’re your best friend, so it’s like losing a friend as well. But I’m just so happy at the moment.’ One of the tabloids recently said that she was engaged to Hammond. She says she’s not, but obviously would like to be - ‘I suppose if you know, you know.’ Recently Deyn did a shoot for Katie Grand when she had to spend the whole day jumping off a New York fire escape, naked, for the photographer Ryan McGinley. She did it for 11 hours, landing on a pile of mattresses, and was black and blue the next day. So why did she agree to do it? ‘Oh, Ryan. I love his pictures, and I totally trusted him. But it was like the fourth leg of the fire escape and I was jumping off naked, and I was in a robe and I’d climb to the top and then you threw your robe down, so when you jumped down you could just put it back on. But once you’ve thrown the robe down, either you jump off or you walk down naked. So I would just have to jump off! But it was really funny because it was a residential building, and through the window where I was jumping off, there were two old guys playing cards. And the first time they saw this naked girl outside their window they looked a bit surprised, but then I was jumping off all day and by the end they were like: “Hi Agyness!” People were watching from the windows and there must have been some paparazzi there because it ended up in the Sun newspaper.’ Paparazzi are a constant presence in her life but, unlike most celebs, she refuses to grumble about them. ‘I don’t want to stop being normal,’ she says. ‘Like
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yesterday, I was walking from Primrose Hill to Henry’s office at Tottenham Court Road, a really nice walk through the park, and there were some guys taking my picture and I stopped and we had a chat and shared a few Wine Gums. I think they’re just earning their wage and everyone’s got to do their job. Or, you know, at the Katie Grand party there were about 15 of them outside, and I was like: “Guys, do you mind if I have a cigarette first?” And they’re: “Sure, if we can have a picture after you’re finished.” And then one of them went to take a picture and the others were all like: “Hey, Agyness is smoking! You can’t take her picture now.” So I think if you’re, like, give and take, you can get on with them. But in New York you never see them, because they use long lenses, so you never have any contact and they’re always at the end of the block. I have more of a rapport with the English ones than I do with the Americans.’ But she is sometimes annoyed by made-up stories in the British press, like a recent one that said she was going backpacking round Europe for a year. It was news to her. Or another that said she had lied about her age. It’s true, she says, that when she first gave an interview to Pop magazine she said she was 15 or something, just taking the mick, but she was amazed when the Mail translated that as lying about her age. (For the record, she will be 26 on 16 February.) And she worries about reporters harassing her family and friends. ‘It got a bit weird because newspapers started knocking on my parents’ front door and asking around at my old school. But, you know, what are they going to find out? That I was in the netball team? I don’t really read the papers anyway.’ In the past she was sometimes photographed stumbling out of parties looking a bit the worse for wear, but she doesn’t drink any more. She stopped when she started going out with Hammond because ‘he doesn’t drink or
going for facials, but they made my skin worse so I just stopped’ - though she does try to keep out of the sun. She eats healthily and has never suffered from anorexia. She and Hammond like going out for dinner but often spend evenings at home listening to music. She has many acquaintances but few close friends ‘Henry and Jessica will always be there, but sometimes our schedules are so busy that I won’t speak to them for a week.’ Although she is reluctant to criticise the fashion industry, there are hints that she has seen its dark side. She was comparatively old when she started - 19 but even so found it ‘scary’ to be thrown into this adult world and worries about what happens to girls who start at 12 or 13. And there are monsters out there. ‘There are people - I’ve heard them saying: “Oh, you’re too fat to be in the show” right in front of everyone. You’ve got to have a really tough skin. I hate to say it’s all bad, because it isn’t, but then there are people who are absolute monsters and make you feel awful and you think: why? It’s not as if I block it out - I’m aware of all the negativeness around - but I kind of don’t choose to register it. I just think: “That’s how they are, those people, and it’s not their fault.”’ Will she name names? ‘No!’ she laughs. ‘And then there are some amazing
She was comparatively old when she started - 19 but even so found it ‘scary’ to be thrown into this adult world and worries about what happens to girls who start at 12 or 13 anything, so I decided I wouldn’t either because it’s weird if you’re on different levels. Sometimes I’ll have a glass of champagne, or a really nice glass of wine if I’m having a steak and chips in a good restaurant, so I’m not, like, never say never. But I don’t really drink any more.’ Anyway, she’s not really a party girl. She used to be, when she first came to London, but nowadays she usually only goes to things like the Fashion Awards or the Katie Grand party when it would be rude not to turn up. Quite often she is in bed by 10. She gets up at seven, does yoga, walks the dogs, and sometimes gets up even earlier in New York to attend a 6.45 yoga class. She has no particular beauty routine - ‘I tried
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In a way, she says, modelling is acting. ‘It’s so weird because it’s like I’m pretending to be a model. And when I get on a shoot, I have to think: OK, I’m turning into that character’
people who make you feel so inspired, like John Galliano, or Christopher Bailey from Burberry - he’s just the nicest northern lad you’ll ever meet. And Giles [Deacon] and Katie [Grand] - they’re quite real at the bottom of it.’ But when I ask whether she meet lots of very self-obsessed people in the fashion world, she agrees fervently: ‘Yes, I do. I don’t have that many friends.’ Are there any models she would refuse to work with? ‘No. I’d never do that. I’ve had people do that to me, though. I don’t know why. But if a younger model came along and they were getting, like, really successful, I would never be jealous, because they don’t even look like me. I think you should help people that are coming up in the industry, especially with it being quite scary sometimes.’ She remembers that Stella Tennant was kind to her at the beginning, when she was working on her first Burberry campaign and very nervous, and Karen Elson has also been ‘really nice’. How does she feel about being called the new Kate Moss? She answers diplomatically: ‘I think Kate’s had an amazing career - I mean, she still has an amazing career and she’s really beautiful. But no one’s
the same. I’m not the new anything; I’m just Agyness.’ But there are hints that she is looking for a career beyond modelling. Until recently she sang in an indie group called Lucky Knitwear, but that has petered out. So now she is attending acting school in New York and has just made a short film called The Right Side of my Exultant Brain for a friend from New York Film Academy, and says: ‘It was really good fun and it was great being surrounded by friends for the first thing I did, so you can kind of feel freer to explore it a little bit more.’ Does she hope to do more acting? ‘Yes. I need to have a lot of things going on; I can’t just do one thing. Like, I can’t only do modelling because then I’d hate it.’ But in a way, she says, modelling is acting. ‘It’s so weird because it’s like I’m pretending to be a model. And when I get on a shoot, and they say, “Be sexy” or “Be ladylike”, I have to think: OK,
I’m turning into that character. And then after the shoot I’m back to normal.’ She once said: ‘I’m not sexy’ and I wondered whether she meant in photographs or in real life. ‘I don’t think of myself as sexy. But I think when I’m doing a shoot that I’m being sexy.’ And in real life? ‘I suppose growing up I didn’t think I was, but now more and more I’m feeling comfortable with myself.’ What does she expect to be doing in 10 years’ time? ‘I think I’ll still be in New York. I want to have a family, but I want to start doing stuff - I don’t know what it is, but I feel that in 10 years’ time I want to be doing something that benefits people, and I don’t know what it is, but I just have this feeling inside me.’ Does she mean, say, like Angelina Jolie being an ambassador for Unicef, that sort of thing? Mmm, she says, doubtfully, obviously not meaning that but too polite to say so. And then she tells me where she is going after our interview - to Great Ormond Street Hospital, to visit some children who wrote to say they’d like to meet her. ‘I love doing stuff like that,’ she confides. It could be quite upsetting, I warn her. ‘Yes,’ she says earnestly. ‘But if I can help in any way, even just by going in... And if it is upsetting, it just puts things in perspective and makes you appreciate your own life. When bad stuff happens, you get over it. But some people don’t, you know.’ Agyness Deyn is more than just a pretty face.
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Mrs Not since Jackie Kennedy has the White House had a style icon in residence. As Michelle Obama slips into the role of political pin-up, with designers fawning at her feet, Lesley White assess the impact of politics’ leading ladies.
...the first lady of fashion
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hey say that politics is show business for the ugly, but sometimes it’s just plain showbiz. When Michelle Obama appeared on the cover of the March issue of American Vogue, sleek as oiled mink in her magenta Jason Wu dress, the first lady was defying one of fashion’s most stubborn stereotypes. The publishing industry’s unofficial position when challenged on why more ethnic models don’t make the covers has been that black women don’t sell glossy magazines. Naomi Campbell and Iman were cover stars in their day, of course, but in general, café au lait is as dusky as the handmaidens of high fashion get, with the Sudanese model Alek Wek the ebony-skinned exception. And it is not simply tradition that shot Michelle onto the coveted front page after Hillary Clinton, she is only the second presidential wife to be accorded the honour. It is more that fashion is minded to crown its new saviour. It owes her. Or at least it hopes it will. In January, The New York Times ran a story entitled US Fashion’s One-Woman Bailout? Not to put the woman under
pressure, but it seems she is an integral part of her husband’s $800 billion economic rescue mission. So far she has appeared in a tasteful array of outfits: charming in a floral Thakoon Panichgul dress when Barack won the Democratic nomination, dazzling on election night in Narciso Rodriguez’s red-andblack ombré dress, resplendent at the swearing-in in Isabel Toledo’s “cloth of gold” dress and coat. Then there were the 10 inaugural balls, starring Jason Wu’s sparkling ivory one-shoulder gown. Washington’s new star is both fêted and burdened, a one-woman stimulus package to get a nation spending again.“There’s no doubt that a style-icon first lady sells clothes,” says Averyl Oates, director of buying at Harvey Nichols in London. “Look at Jackie Onassis and Princess Diana. The confidence and affirmation of a woman in power wearing a designer can catapult them to stardom.” In short, Michelle is her countrywomen’s commander-in-shift, of whom the expectations are vast. And her remit goes further. With every picture she’s putting middle-aged
Washington’s new star is both fêted and burdened, a onewoman stimulus package to get a nation spending again
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women on the fashion map. And black women on the glamour spreads. And mothers in a new sassy spotlight. Oh, and curtailing anorexia in the process: each time she beams from a glossy, the broader broad wins the day. Last year, for the second time, Mrs O made Vanity Fair’s International Best Dressed List, an accolade that might have had more to do with cultivating friends in high places than her genius with accessories. But who cares when the cash tills are ringing? Her outfits, when available, have sold out. She is also careful to dress herself and her daughters from the American classic outfitters Gap and J Crew - nobody wants to looks snooty around the new Camelot. After the family sported bits and bobs from J Crew over the inaugural weekend, the company’s shares rose 11%. Nobody loves telling the world how much (or little) their dresses cost more than the canny recessionista Michelle. But does this practical, outspoken lawyer, who was educated at Harvard and marched for racial equality, want to be the new Jackie Kennedy, adored for her darling dresses? While the fashion press
twitter on about frocks, she talks of having a “platform”, by which (to the chagrin of Christian Louboutin) she doesn’t mean an elevated sole, but a place from which to address the nation about what matters to her. Most relevant in depressed times, perhaps, is her championing of the national volunteering programme Renew America Together. Her approach to the job is a sleeves-rolled-up realism, with straight talk about family values and social justice, far closer to home than the apolitical causes embraced by most high profile wives, more Eleanor Roosevelt mothering the nation through austerity than Princess Di adorned with posh frocks and needy babies. In our brief love affair with Michelle O she has taken the trouble to wear nice clothes, but she hasn’t looked particularly enthralled by them. Actually, I suspect her of being a fashion fraud - pretending to care about it more than she really does. This is a working woman, pleasant- looking but not the great “beauty” mythologised by her fawning commentariat, a polished power dresser with stroppy hair and
hips who, before her bizarre rocketing into the celebosphere, wouldn’t have given her fashion-ambassador potential a second thought (or even a first one). But Michelle is wise to play the game. The first black woman to rule the White House needs to make a visual impact, to seduce and appeal to those (Republicans, Obama-sceptics, Hillary fans) who never wanted her there. Her Democrat predecessor Hillary Clinton looked trapped by those matching coats and dresses: her lightning quick change into black trouser suits when she left the White House seemed even more of a blissful relief to her than getting her own political career. She didn’t find a place in the great American heart, which is where Michelle needs to be. “Lemongrass is the new black,” proclaimed the fashionistas after she chose the colour for a state occasion. You can imagine her silent groan as the prospect of, possibly, eight years of obsessive interest in her life and leggings hit her, but she knows what is required. At 45, Michelle Obama is the most striking first lady since Jackie Kennedy. She’s not the youngest
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(Hillary Clinton was also 45 when she got the job), but it feels as if she is. Since Jackie’s departure nearly 50 years ago, there’s been a style interregnum peopled by women with neocon dress sense, stymied when they did make an effort by their thick ankles and weight-bearing hips, but mostly by the all-too-obvious fact that they found fashion trivial (Hillary) or for a younger generation (Barbara Bush). Fragrant Laura did better than her frumpy mother- in- law: chided by her daughters for her “helmet hair”, she moved from halfhearted “clothes” in her first term to “fashion” in her second, but she pioneered no new looks and her low- key makeover seemed more dutiful than fun. The exception to the mumsy procession of presidential wives was Nancy Reagan. She was 59 when she arrived in the White House but obsessed with fashion, greedy for its made-tomeasure freebies, her extensive borrowing putting her in contravention of the Ethics in Government Act. Her defence was that she was promoting American fashion; but she needed couture more than the other way around. Her rake-thin Upper East Side look seemed a perfect embodiment of what Tom Wolfe called the “social x-rays”, ageing wives devouring girlish Oscar de la Renta dresses and minute portions of nothing much for lunch, teetering on candy- cane legs from charity dinners to Republican fundraisers. “Queen Nancy” was too stiff, too prissy-looking to inspire anyone but satirists of the “greed is good” bonanza championed by Ronnie. Mrs Obama is more than a breath of fresh air: she will be a reason to stay cheerful as cynicism about her husband’s foreign policy inevitably creeps in. While Barack seeks to persuade that he is ushering in a new America - idealistic, young, modern - there is his wife helpfully looking all of those things in her emerald silk dress as the couple honoured Stevie Wonder recently. Her appearance won more column inches than her husband’s
warning about the national debt. The more the media adores Michelle, the longer Barack’s honeymoon period. These are tough times for fashion. But public clotheshorses can help. In France, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy is thought to have earned Dior $2m in free advertising and sales by enchanting the world when she visited England last spring in her princess-perfect dove-grey ensemble. When she stepped from the plane in her Jackie-esque pillbox we swooned; she was restrained, exuding an all-purpose savoir-faire. Comparisons have been struck with Diana, but the people’s princess was angular and
What to people want from a leader’s wife? Glamour, fashion, vava voom? A sense that she understands the everyday concerns of the seasoned shopper? beaky, her hair never quite right, while Carla is a professional fashion plate. And what of the other major international players? In the UK, Sarah Brown looked chic in her purple beret from New Look at the state opening of parliament, but I’m not sure it would have staved off suicides in the depressed millinery industry. Brown is an experienced PR executive who understands the value of image, but like most women over a size 10, she isn’t comfortable with relentless scrutiny of her body. At the Elle Style Awards she looked stumped when asked about her silk jersey dress by Ben de Lisi. “A great British designer for a showcase of British talent,” she managed, sounding more like a trade minister than a fashion fan.
In France, while proud of Carla’s elegance, gossipy commentators sniggered at her attempt to look like a demure wifelet for the British royal family: Bruni, the former man-eating rock chick? Who is she kidding? “She’s had so much work on that face,” meows a Paris fashion editor, “they’re calling her la femme bionique .” But then the French are thrilled that she beats other first ladies hands down. Doesn’t her treasure-trove of gifted or borrowed finery make her look out of touch with le peuple? Mais non! “She’s the first lady of the French republic. Chanel, Dior... whatever she wants she must be allowed to wear.” What do people want from a leader’s wife? Glamour, fashion, va-va-voom? A sense that she understands the everyday concerns of the seasoned shopper? In the US, the standard to meet is Jackie Kennedy, a woman whose “response to life”, in the words of the historian Arthur M Schlesinger, “was aesthetic rather than intellectual or moralistic”. She was indifferent to politics, but her shell-pink Cassini gown nonetheless eased the path of a tense diplomacy in Vienna in 1961 by dazzling a reportedly beguiled Nikita Khrushchev. With Jackie the look was the story: where she vacationed, how she wallpapered the Oval Office, belted her trench coats, were all elevated into an ideal of American style. She was criticised by Pat Nixon for her overly Francophile love of Dior and Givenchy, which she promptly reined in, employing the former Hollywood designer Cassini to create her most spectacular gowns. For designers, the chance to dress the leader’s wife is a God-given break. Who had heard of the Thai-American designer Thakoon before he hit the Obama jackpot? The most bizarre reason I ever heard for hoping a political party wins a general election was in the 1980s; an upcoming British couturier was rhapsodising over Michael Heseltine’s elegant wife, Anne, and the “dream” of dressing her if she became chatelaine of No 10. Few first ladies have ever fitted the
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Carla Bruni-Sarkozy is thought to have earned Dior $2m in free advertising and sales by enchanting the world when she visited England
bill (or the bias- cut satin evening dress), of course, but the Chanel gazelle Carla has the happy advantage of having modelled for a decade before alighting on another job that wins you lots of free clothes and the gasping appreciation of the masses. Carla doesn’t make it easy for her global counterparts. Imagine the humiliation of being photographed next to her, of trying to fly the flag on one of those painful wives’ excursions, like kimono-folding for beginners (seriously), offered at the G8 summits, with Carla stealing the show. Meanwhile, female politicians themselves are learning the value of looking the part. And the price of getting it wrong. When they swept to power on a tide of sensible red suits in 1997, I doubt if one Blair babe could have spelt - let alone owned a pair of heels by - Manolo Blahnik. And who would have expected them to? But Sarkozy’s wife is not the only looker in his entourage. The sacking of Rachida Dati, the French justice minister, who has been promised a safe seat in the European parliament, was no surprise. Teetering back to work on stilettos just five days after giving birth didn’t look heroic, it looked odd and a bit desperate. The woman Sarkozy once called “ma beurette” (my little Arab girl) was too sultry for her own good, too close to the boss and his ex- wife Cécilia, for Carla’s comfort. Women in French political life have always sought to be well turned out (Simone de Beauvoir was the pin-up of Les Deux Magots, after all), but Dati went too far. Did the citizens of the fifth republic really want the minister charged with rationalising France’s archaic courts appearing in Paris Match in kinky boots to chat about her love of Dior and Chanel? Dati has risen higher than any other French North African woman; her personal allure has no doubt helped, but her attention to image has equally
undermined her credibility. After Dati was caught on camera filing her nails at a Paris city council meeting and a Socialist MP joked about her “unbearable lightness”, the pencil skirts and high heels that got her noticed seemed ready to bury her, the definitive fashion victim. The job of first lady (of which she maybe once dreamt) might have suited her better: more top- class swanning, less boring work. In general, though, politicians don’t marry high-maintenance mannequins. If they are lucky enough to net a beauty, she does well - in England at least - to tread carefully. MP Michael Howard’s wife, Sandra, a former model, understood perfectly that beauty can unhelpfully divide a political wife from the voters she needs to like her. When she announced that her dress for the Conservatives’ 2004 winter ball was a $150 Monsoon number, the nation applauded. For the French it would have been an inexplicable dereliction of duty, for their couture houses a missed marketing opportunity. Had things turned out differently at the 2005 election, Sandra would have taken her low-key glamour with her to No 10 to powerful effect. Samantha Cameron – wife of Conservative leader David Cameron - is similarly clever about democratic dressing, always on-trend but also in touch. Though she sells ludicrously expensive leather goods as creative director of Smythson, she likes to be known as a champion of the high street, wearing French Connection, Reiss and Topshop. Should she be enthroned next year, you can count on her to look the part too. The first lady is a political force, her status exalted, her celebrity extreme, her influence in spreading the creed of globalisation or of patriotic fashionshopping not to be underestimated. You can see the need for fashion figureheads in a recession; what’s new is the idea that they might come from the political arena.
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es, people, we are still addicted to thin. The 35,000 diet books currently available on Amazon expose our insatiable appetite for the tricks of weight loss, old and new. Thin, writes Susie Orbach in her latest book, is our “visual Muzak”; it’s there on billboards, in magazines, on music videos, reading the news, selling us toothpaste, breathing hungrily down our sensitive necks - we’ve become accustomed to thin. Not slim, not fit, not normal. But thin. We’ve swallowed the line that thin is the peak of achievement, success made flesh (or, to be more accurate, bone). Take Kelly Osbourne’s recent comment “Suddenly everyone likes me because I’ve lost 2st. Why? Was I [horrible] before?” - or comedian Tina Fey, who reveals that she didn’t find fame until her weight had plummeted from 10st 7lb to 8st 7lb. Cheryl Cole may be the rightful darling of the day, but her lip gloss appears to weigh more than she does. (“One day a week I eat whatever I like,” she remarks from beneath all that buoyant hair, and you just know that she means she allows herself a cappuccino, not a full fry-up with extra sauté potatoes.) These things have become normal. Hands up who doesn’t fancy having a go with Alli, the new diet pill that leaches fat out of your system like a squeegee mop? Hey, an upset stomach is a small price to pay for a smaller pair of jeans. Right? As Orbach argues, body shape - a slim body, a contained shape - has come to define us, a constant hum droning away in the engine room of the female psyche. Even those of us who balk at the idiocy and banality of dieting, even we who disdain the methods, can’t help but glory in actually losing weight. Just recently I lost a stone – and it felt like I’d achieved something truly great. Something important. Girlfriends congratulated me, as if I’d just hiked to the North Pole on my knees or discovered a cure for asthma. As if it mattered. All I’d done was slim down from a cosy 12 to
a generous 10. It was so pathetic, I told myself. But... but... there’s no denying that I loved it. How could I be so shallow? So crass and hypocritical? I look at my little girl Lily, now six, and I dearly hope she won’t monitor, measure and gauge her body in the way I have always done ever since adolescence and my first tussle with the zipper on a pencil skirt. Will she hit the blues if she hits 10st? Will it all still matter in 20 years, or will we have found something more edifying
loosely be described as diet culture, this is what appears to be happening. A sensory shift. A mood change. Not seismic, but certain. Look, for example, at the Zoebots – those terrifying acolytes of US stylist Rachel Zoe, the ones we’ve become used to seeing on the paparazzi circuit, with their huge sunglasses and clattery clavicles. Don’t they look oddly old-fashioned? Past their sell-by? Zoe herself seems suddenly grossly out of touch. When she
Cover Girls
Beth Ditto, Adele and Michelle Obama to occupy the tracts of time between blossoming puberty and certain death? If anything, the signs are that we may have hit a new low in our dieting obsession: a poll recently found that some women fear weight gain more than cancer, which is so tragic it makes me want to weep. Where next? Where else ... but up? Could it be that we’ve hit dirt and are ready to redeem ourselves? As Barbara Ellen wrote recently: “Maybe we are entering what may be termed a post-Fern era, where society has peaked, burnt itself out, criticising the female form... In simple terms, where female fat is concerned, there is nowhere left to go.” While Ellen argues that the spotlight has shifted to men and their weight, I have a different, more hopeful take. Once our heroines have reached a tiny size, once we find ourselves at rock bottom, isn’t this where a little perspective may just start to emerge? At the cutting edge of what may
revealed that sometimes she is so busy it gets to 7pm and she realises she’s only eaten “a grapefruit and some coffee”, I wanted to call up and say: “Haven’t you heard the news? Don’t you know that deprivation diets are so O-VER? Jeez, Rach, how could you be so 2006?” Even at the bleeding edge of style, you’ll find signs of an attitude switch. The most acclaimed magazine launch of the year - Love, a new title from the Condé Nast stable edited by fashion’s reigning monarch Katie Grand - has Beth Ditto as its first cover girl. That’s Beth Ditto: 220lb and still smiling. Sure, it’s a bit of a stunt. But it challenges us, us mag-reading mavens, to take off our fat goggles and see sense. Sense, such as the fact that women come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Sense, such as the recognition that the defining body shape of recent years (all boy bum and ribcage) is suspect and unsound. Perhaps it’s already sinking in. Adele,
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another curvy singer, is soon to appear in US Vogue, photographed by Annie Leibovitz; Michelle Obama’s magnificent body adorned the cover of the March issue. Last month, by the way, a poll found that size-14 women are happiest with their looks, while size 6s are far more likely to dislike their bodies. Not that we’re about to flump on the sofa and lay down the lard. Most of us, given the choice, still want the splendour of slim it’s just that it’s beginning to sink in that a fad diet is no earthly way to go about it. We now know that, as Orbach says: “Diet companies rely on a 95% recidivism rate, a figure that should be etched into every dieter’s consciousness.” We’ve read the news that serial dieters are more likely to end up heavier as a result of dieting. We’re beginning to cotton on to the fact that the low-fat lifestyle advocated by the diet police for almost 30 years has succeeded only in feeding a rampant obesity, an issue New Scientist calls the “defining epidemic of our age”. We are, after all, more informed than ever about the biological processes which govern our weight. Since Atkins taught
us all about ketosis and GI dished on glycaemic load, since Gary Taubes told us all about good fats and super-foods bounced into the lexicon, any woman with an interest in diets (that’s half of us, and – just a wild guess here – all of you reading this) is more aware than ever about the inner workings of our metabolisms. We know what happens to calories in and calories out, we know how fat is deposited, how fat cells never die, how deprivation diets cause the body to hang on to fat, saving it up for a rainy day, we know, we know, we know. In fact, we know enough not to fall for the spiel. In place of a desperate devouring of the latest diet fad to come careening around the corner with a promise to jettison our love handles in a flash of grapefruit juice, instead of the hype and the hoopla, a new realism seems to be emerging. There’s even a name for it, since names are vital in the weight-loss game: positive eating. Don’t yawn at the back there. It may not have the woo-hoo headline appeal of some of the more drastic diets that have hogged column inches and bookstore space in recent years. But it’s settling in for the long haul. Think of positive eating as the cousin of slow food. The more glamorous cousin, perhaps, who is equally grounded and realistic but really wants to look fabulous in a clingy cocktail dress. Positive eating disdains cutting food groups and ditching dinner. It wouldn’t subsist on a thin cup of cabbage broth, its stomach growling at the dog. It hinges on eating well, not eating less – a message that is becoming increasingly popular in even the most fad-crazed societies. In the States, for instance, dieting is at an all-
time low. According to market research firm NPD, which collects information about the nation’s eating habits through 5,000 food diaries, the percentage of consumers who are on a diet is lower than at any time since information on dieting was first collected in 1985. At the peak in 1990, 39% of women and 29% of men were dieting. Today that number has dropped to 26% of women and 16% of men. The shift, reports NPD, “seems to have come from a change in mindset”. Even the Calorie Control Council, which represents makers of commercial diet foods, notes that the percentage of people who are dieting has declined - to 29% in 2007 from 33% in 2004. “While dieting for both women and men remain huge markets, they are not growing markets,” says Harry Balzer, vice president of the NPD Group and author of the report Eating Patterns in America. “The desire to lose weight really was a 90s trend. Today consumers appear to be making healthier food choices... today healthy eating is more a matter of addition than subtraction.” NPD’s diarists report eating more organic foods and whole grains, together with more fibre, omega-3 fatty acids, functional foods, antioxidants and probiotics. Cynthia Sass, a New York dietician and spokesperson for the American Dietetic Association from 2001 to 2007, concurs with these findings, telling the New York Times that many of her clients are embracing positive eating after years of failed dieting: “They would much rather focus on what to eat instead of what not to eat,” Sass says. “After decades of obsessing about fat, calories and carbs, many dieters have made the unorthodox
IT’S NOT JUST MY MUSIC. IT’S BECAUSE I’M SO THIN. I HAD THE SAME VOICE WHEN I WAS FAT, BUT NO ONE [CARED] THEN Amy Winehouse reveals the secret of her success
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diets, those quick-fix, miracle-in-a-box, celebrity-endorsed cures which have so absorbed us of late. In Britain, sales of “slimming products” fell by a third over the past five years to £79m in 2007; according to Mintel’s research, last year fewer Britons embarked on a “diet plan” such as Atkins or GI. “Many people simply do not trust diets to deliver any more,” it explains. “Attitudes to dieting have become more negative, with a higher proportion of consumers believing that they are hard to follow, confusing and maybe harmful.” Is that some perspective I see there, inching over the horizon? While plenty of fairy folk in LA continue to beat their bodies into submission with drastic diets, egg-white smoothies and hyper-caffeine drinks, a
pollen and obscure Amazonian berries you might expect from the queen of macrobiotics). And so it goes on. Emma Bunton’s return to figure-happy form, 18 months after giving birth to Beau? Well, guess what? She didn’t drink a daily tincture of magnolia bark and banana leaf, she didn’t eat baby food from little glass jars, she didn’t ... well, what did she do? “After having Beau I took my time with it - I didn’t actually get back to my weight properly for a year because I did it really gradually ... It’s got to be about balance, though, being healthy but not letting it rule your life. I think [fad diets] are ridiculous because you honestly can’t stick to them. As soon as you do go back, you’re going to put all that weight back
“I FEEL SEXY AND I FEEL LIKE A WOMAN AND I FEEL HAPPY. AND I DON’T FEEL LIKE I’M CONSTANTLY DEPRIVING MYSELF” Christina Hendricks on her body beautiful decision to simply enjoy food again. That doesn’t mean they’re giving up on health or even weight loss. Instead, consumers and nutritionists say they are seeing a shift toward positive eating - shunning deprivation diets and instead focusing on adding healthful foods to their plates.” There’s a similar story unfolding elsewhere. In its February 2008 report, Mintel observed that “in a market driven by health and weight concerns, diet plans and products should be thriving. In reality, the market for slimming products is in decline and growth in the reducedfat, calorie or sugar (RFCS) product market has slowed to virtually nil ... Are fad diets a thing of the past?” A follow-up report from October 2008 seems to have lighted upon the answer - a big fat Yes: “The definition of a ‘diet’,” it concluded, “has shifted as consumers shun dieting for more healthy eating regimes.” The news, then, is not a repudiation of weight loss, but a rejection of fad
growing number are beginning to speak up for... normality. My own pet star at the moment is Christina Hendricks from Mad Men, a wickedly sensual size 12. “I feel sexy and I feel like a woman and I feel happy,” she says. “And I don’t feel like I’m constantly depriving myself or beating myself up, and I still feel beautiful. But all the same, I’m a woman, and do I want to lose 10lb? Absolutely, like everyone else does.” Certainly the Hollywood elite isn’t about to give up the slims, but their methods of getting there look increasingly sane. There’s nothing particularly kooky about Jennifer Lopez dropping her twin weight by training for the Malibu Triathlon (she lost 3st in 12 weeks). Or Gwyneth Paltrow’s website Goop, which is full of rather gushy advice about good eating and exercise (I did her turkey meatballs the other night. Gwynnie’s meatballs! I mean, how much less glitzy can you get? It’s hardly the spirulina, bee
on. The fad diets never work. Ever.” No doubt Kate Winslet would agree. That honey-coloured triple-wow body of hers is apparently due to a Pilates DVD which she does at home, on the sitting-room floor, when she feels like it. I believe her. “I feel very strongly that curves are natural, womanly and real,” she has said. “I shall continue to hope that women are able to believe in themselves for who they are inside, and not feel under such incredible pressure to be unnaturally thin. I have always been, and shall continue to be, honest when it comes to body/weight issues.” If positive eating and the rise of the anti-diet seem just too good to be true - well, only time will tell. Professor Andrew Hill, head of psychiatry and behavioural sciences at Leeds Medical School, certainly sounds a note of caution: “I suspect the faddy stuff will just lurk in the background until someone comes up with the next big
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Market analyst TNS found that people really are starting to eat more healthily, with a rise in the quantity of fruit and veg consumed (though, interestingly, only at the beginning of the week - still, it’s a start). A poll last month even found that we are eating more “foods we hate” in the hope of enjoying health benefits (spinach, oily fish and brown bread top the list - together with lentils, liver and Marmite, though not all in the same saucepan). I’m not saying we’ve all turned into Gillian McKeith, just that down-to-earth, common-sense nutrition is in the ascendant. Subsisting on acai berries and tree sap, or having a protein shake for lunch, or peeing on
“break the bonds of diet despotism”; it counsels readers to eat fat, indulge and enjoy a high old time while losing weight through a combination of sound nutrition and exercise. No magic bullet, and hardly rocket science, but a soaraway success nonetheless. Even the strait-laced American Dietetic Association calls it a “lusty, sensual diet book”. But the point is, it’s not really a diet book at all. Nor, to declare an interest, is my own book, 101 Things to do Before You Diet - soon to join those 35,000 diet books on Amazon. It’s more a live-it than a diet, a comprehensive (and hopefully uplifting) audit of the myriad things which affect our body shape - not just
“MY BODY’S DIFFERENT. IT HAS SETTLED INTO WHAT IT IS NOW. NONE OF THIS DIFFERENT DIETS LARK. I CAN’T REMEMBER THE LAST TIME I TRIED SOME NEW FAD” Kate Winslet on her current shape idea,” he says. “There’s a life cycle in the weight-loss industry. I guarantee that within the next five years, there’ll be a new miracle-diet product, another way to keep people purchasing. sA new generation of girls will always discover a culture that vilifies fat and worships thin.” Perhaps, he suggests, this more measured approach to weight loss is a matter of the discernment that comes with age - that Kate and I have simply worked our way through the diet options and discovered that none of them work. As Hill says: “It is the flexible dieting strategies that are more likely to succeed in the long term; rigid restraint is always more likely to fail. But you have to try it to understand that.” Fine, I’ll buy that. It’s just that plenty of other people, of all ages, seem to be buying it too. There are subtle signs that food proper, nutritious food - is making a comeback at the world’s tables as more and more of us are cooking from scratch.
a stick to see if it goes pink just seem, well, a pretty silly way of living a life. I don’t think for a minute that the diet wars have been won, that the dream of thin is going anywhere any time soon. Hospitals are still struggling with a rise in eating disorders; more and more people are having their stomachs stapled; Alli will probably sell a shedload in its first month. There will always be extremes, and extremists. But here in the middle ground, there is clearly an alternative way of thinking which is gaining traction, one which champions gradual, achievable changes - behavioural, emotional, physical - seasoned with a bit of moderation and a whole lot of sense. “None of which,” says Dr Luisa Dillner of the British Medical Journal Group, “would make a bestselling diet book.” Wrong, Dr Dillner, wrong. As you might expect, there is a chart-topping book to tap this trend. Esther Blum’s Secrets of Gorgeous promises to
fats and carbs, but stress, hormones, sleep, knickers, hunger, sugar cycles, fizzy drinks, fat friends, habits, trans fats, happiness, posture, opaque tights, confidence, chocolate – a full 360-degree take on our obsession with weight and its conquest. It’s 100% fadless – and yes, it’s how I lost the stone that I might have mentioned above. In short, and in common with the anti-diet new mood, it examines all the positive elements that will help you look fabulous in a bikini. Because that, after all, is what we’re after. It may not be all that noble. But (with sincere apologies to Lily) it’s true.
t A ɨJOHT UP Do Before You Diet’ by Mimi Spencer is out now.
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JUMANA TALK
Gwen Stefani
Step 1
To get a flawless canvas, start by applying a light covering of foundation over the eyelid and set it with a dusting of pressed powder. Highlight your browbone with a neutral eyeshadow that has an iridescent shimmer blended through it, being careful not to apply too much.
Step 2
Select a neutral eyeshadow and a brown eyeshadow, and apply the neutral eyeshadow first over the main section of the eye. Start lightly blending the brown eyeshadow in from the outer corner to the inside corner very softly, focusing on making it darker at the outer corner of the eye. By using your finger to blend, it will look smokier and more natural as the heat from your hand helps create an even result.
masterclass
flicked eyes
Inglot Makeup artist Sangita Rajkumari takes us through the steps to turn yourself into a ’40s style starlet.
Step 3
Eyeliner and Inglot Gel 77. Position your elbow on the table to help keep your arm steady and begin drawing from the inside of the upper lid to the outside of the lid with a flick at the end. Don’t pull the line out too far as it will end up looking a bit ‘cats’ eyes’-esque. Choose a volumising mascara in black to add further impact. For a really glamorous look, add individual false eye lashes to the outer corners of the upper lashline. Apply the glue and wait a few seconds so it becomes tacky then apply. Add another coat of mascara to help bond the false lashes to your own lashes.
Step 4
Get a flawless base like Gwen Stefani by first of all applying a makeup primer – this will help even out the skin and will make your foundation stay put. Choose a foundation that will dry to a matte finish. Dust your face with loose powder to soak up any excess oils – this will also ensure your look lasts longer in the summer sun.
Step 5
Many people see eyeliner as being daunting and tend to avoid it. With practice it can become easy. Choose a liquid eyeliner or a gel eyeliner in black to obtain a strong colour – we like Inglot Liquid
Lightly sweep the apples of your cheeks with a blush in a pale pink, just to help define them – it should be very subtle. Line your lips with a deep red lip pencil and fill in with a red matte lipstick , blot on a tissue and reapply so it will stay put. For fuller lips simply add a dab of clear gloss to the bottom lip.
must-haves Kohl Pencil, Inglot Dhs45
Signature Powder Blush, Estee Lauder Dhs156
Red Matte Lipstick, Inglot Dhs60
Long and Curly, Inglot Dhs75
Selected jewelled eyelashes, Inglot From Dhs35
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Eye Candy Claudia Schiffer
fair skin
Ombre Stretch Gold, Bourjois Dhs60
Heavy colors will look clown-like on pale skin tones, so try to stick with neutral colours. perhaps something with a sparkle to highlight your eyes.
Salma Hayek
olive skin
Think brown and green tones for olive skin, it will complement your complexion and the colour will help create a sultry look. Brown eyes also are enhanced with green eye shadows and it will help the colour stand out.
Rihanna
Make the most of your eyes by finding the right colour to suit you...
dark skin
Darker skin tones can easily carry off bright eyeshadow. Get experimental with vivid colours and apply using your fingertip for a more intense colour. Try flicking it out like Rihanna for a rock chic look.
French Vanilla, Clinique Dhs120
Pink Venus, MAC Dhs70 Creaseless Cream, Benefit Dhs85
Shade 60, Bobbi Brown Dhs104
Serpent, Smashbox Dhs69
Shade 7, Bobbi Brown Dhs104
Vert Celeste, Bourjois Dhs54
Ombre Stretch Lilac Bourjois Dhs70
Brun Somptueux, Bourjois Dhs54
Tilt MAC Dhs70
Ink, Smashbox Dhs69
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Step 3
Step 1
Wavy hair is a great look for summer and one you can wear during the day or at night. While washing your hair, do not apply too much conditioner as this will make it too soft to style. While the hair is damp apply a hair mousse - this will build up the volume. Use a diffuser with your hair dryer, scrunching it in circular motions, and avoid using a hair brush - it works best if the hair looks a little bit messy.
Step 2
Now that you have diffused your hair it should have volume and be slightly wavy. Pin up the top layer of hair to keep it out of the way. Get a curling tong and take the first section of hair which should be approximately an inch thick. Wind it around the tong loosely and hold for about ten seconds. Release the tong and let the hair cool while you move on to the next section and repeat the process. Complete all your lower layers before you begin the top layers.
masterclass
wavy hair
Hair Stylist Julian Parry shows us how to create this season’s waves...
Now that you have lightly curled your hair it will have definite shape. To avoid it looking too ‘done’, tip your head upside down and shake it. Then gently rake your fingers through your hair to break up the curls. Leave the hair to drop and when you are happy that it has, spray a fine mist of hair spray over it. This will help maintain the waves in the heat as the humidity will have an effect on the volume. Use a hairspray that has a natural hold so the hair still has movement in it.
Step 4
With hairbands being such a huge trend why not wear them with wavy hair? To get a bohemian look, wear one around the front of your head: choose a beaded one that will catch the light and look great against your hair. Try selecting random strands of hair and plait them, securing with small, clear hair elastics. The plaits should as thin as possible so they are quite subtle. Wavy hair looks best on long locks, so avoid it if your hair is shorter than shoulder length. If you don’t have time to diffuse and curl your hair, an easy cheat is to use a sea salt spray, for example one from Bumble and Bumble.
Trendsetter Tresses
Elle Macpherson pumps up the volume with messy waves.
Vanessa Hugdens manages to rock wavy locks and maintain shine.
Pretty Woman Julia Roberts keeps her look polished and smooth.
SJP dyes her trademark waves a vampish brown to update the look.
Add a fringe for definition like Nicole Richie and keep it messy.
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JUMANA BEAUTY You Rebel, Benefit Dhs138
Perfect Touch, Yves Saint Laurent Dhs193
Playstick, Benefit Dhs151
Natural Minerals, Max Factor Dhs77
10 of the best...
foundations
Sheer Focus, Smashbox Dhs129
Get a flawless base and cheat your way to perfect skin...
Supermoisture, Clinique Dhs140
High Definition, Smashbox Dhs129
Teint Lift Eclat, Clarins Dhs230 Superbalanced, Clinique Dhs140
Teint Majeur, Yves Saint Laurent Dhs360
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tried & tested
Let’s face it we are all guilty of over using heat styling products and hair colour, and it often leaves our hair looking tired and frazzled. How do you get it get it glossy again? We tried out conditioning treatments...
editor’s choice Brazilian Keratin Treatment If you feel you need a treat or want to be pampered why not book yourself in for the exclusive Brazilian Keratin Treatment at Franck Provost (04 362 9865) hair salons? This two hour treatment will leave damaged hair feeling exceptionally soft and lasts up to 4 months. Not only were the results incredibly obvious but the treatment itself was relaxing with a scalp massage an added bonus. I also found that my hair was considerably straighter and required less blow drying time afterwards, which will help reduce future heat damage. This is definitely a treatment for badly neglected hair and it can be used on any kind of chemically treated hair, from perms to bleached. Prices start from Dhs1,500 for short hair rising to Dhs3,000 for long hair. As there are no harsh chemicals involved it will actually repair the damage to your hair internally, without the need for
additional products. Keratin itself is a liquid form of hair and as it coats the hair it strengthens it. As mentioned the effects will grow out. However, the more you have the treatment done, the better your hair’s condition and manageability will become. It is the perfect cheat to get the glossy hair you have always wanted.
Natural Remedy
Daily Conditioners
Hair Masks
Oil Treatments
Add two tablespoons of gram flour to a cup of coconut milk and mix it together well. Pour over the scalp and massage into the hair for five minutes followed by a good rinse with cold water. I didn’t see a difference immediately but if this treatment was used once a week I think you would begin to see a difference as the coconut milk begins to put moisture back into dry hair. The downside to it is the inconvenience of not having a product ready made - and I found it difficult to rinse it all out. 2/5
It is easy to make a conditioner part of your daily routine if you apply it after your shampoo, concentrating on the ends of your hair. Keep it on for a few minutes before rinsing out and you will notice the hair is easier to brush, helping to avoid further breakage. After using Matrix Biolace Strengthening Conditioner for two weeks I noticed an improvement in my hair, it was much less prone to breaking and felt stronger. A good option to maintain healthy hair once it’s repaired. 4/5
Apply the hair mask and cover again with either a plastic shower cap or clingfilm - this will keep in the heat and intensify the treatment. I left the mask on for about 30 minutes and rinsed, I recommend rinsing several times to make sure you get the product out. My hair instantly felt softer and was extremely easy to brush. This is a great product to put on your hair if you are heading to the beach as it will help protect it from the salt and sun. 3/5
A hot oil treatment is great if you don’t want to condition your hair everyday. I tried out the TRESemme hot oil treatment which claims to have uv protection which is great if you have coloured hair and tend to be outside a lot. The oil is self-warming so didn’t need to be heated up, and after I applied it to my hair I massaged it for one minute to stimulate the heat. I found that I didn’t have to use a lot of oil to cover my hair and it was easier to use than other hot oil treatments. Great results all round. 4/5
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QUEEN FOR A NIGHT The Monarch Dubai (04 501 8888 / themonarchdubai.com) is one of the finest hotels in the city, and their signature restaurant Empire (pictured below) is superb. April sees them lay on a great ‘Empire dine & stay’ offer for couples: two people can enjoy a blissful three-course meal at Empire with a glass of wine for each course and then stay over for the night – all for just Dhs749 per person. To hear the conditions and to book the offer, call the reservations department on 04 501 8800. We’ve got one of the packages to give away for free to one lucky couple: for your chance to win, email the answer to the following question to jumanacomps@hotmediapublishing.com... Q: WHAT IS THE NAME OF THE SIGNATURE RESTAURANT AT THE MONARCH DUBAI?
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JUMANA FINAL SAY
the 10 commandments
HOW i SHOP... DOUNYAZAD BOUKRI MARKETING COORDINATOR, CHALHOUB GROUP I am an ex ‘impulsive shopaholic’…I am saying ex because I used to shop like crazy, buying anything that attracted me. However, with time I became more self controlled. Well, just a little bit. I am working in retail fashion so I am always tempted by new things. I try to control myself whenever I go on market visits but I often end up buying things because temptation is so strong with all the beautiful brands that I’m handling - Celine, Scarpe, Marc Jacobs, etc. If I shop I try to travel ‘light’, meaning: small bag with my phone and my wallet. That’s it. I wear a dress so I can try things on easily and of course I wear flat shoes for my shopping expedition. I try not to spend more than two hours in a shopping frenzy because I don’t like AC. Plus, it’s really tiring! I don’t shop during peak hours as I don’t like the crowd. I want to take my time - shopping has to be a pleasant experience. I always take breaks when I shop whether to have a small coffee or a big meal - I need to be in great shape for this energy-consuming activity! Don’t bring your male partner along with you: they will tell you that everything you try on looks great as they are always looking for the emergency exit! I buy trendy items providing that they suit me and that I will feel comfortable wearing them. I love to buy high-quality products especially when it comes to bags and shoes. I really think of them as an investment rather than as simple accessories. I love high heels and think that a woman’s shoes are the most important element in her outfit. As Coco Chanel said: a woman with good shoes is never ugly!
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