DXB July 2009 by Hot Media

dxb

Nightlife

Shopping

Restaurants

Indulge in top pubs, cafes, bars and clubs

Hit our pick of the best malls, souks and stores

Brace your tastebuds for some Þve star dining

THE INSIDERÕS GUIDE TO DUBAI

07/09

yours to keep

PREPARED EXCLUSIVELY FOR VIRGIN ATLANTIC PASSENGERS

CONTENTS ABOUT THIS GUIDE DXB is a revolutionary publication – it’s the world’s first destination-specific inflight magazine. Forget the usual inflight mix of travel features about places you’re not going to and long letters from the chairman about his new fleet of Airbuses. Instead, we bring you tailormade recommendations for your holiday from our team of experts based in the city. Each month we bring together the best in restaurants, malls, spas, activities, clubs, pubs and bars for your delectation. All you need to do is peruse this mag during your flight, slip it into your bag when you get off the plane, and then use it throughout your trip. We’ve even included a sheaf of special offers on everything from dinners to jewellery to help you make the most of your holiday (see p55). The prices listed in UK pounds within the magazine are based on an average conversion rate over the last three months, and are rounded up or down. Enjoy your trip to Dubai...

3 ON ARRIVAL

23 SHOPPING

43 GOING OUT

Picking up a sim card, a hire car and a bottle or two

Get ready to melt your credit card. PLUS Mall and Souk picker: Target your shopping spree.

Top nights out on the town, from pubs to rooftop bars.

4 THE CITY Essential local knowledge for your stay ACTIVITIES & WELLBEING

11 EATING & DRINKING Plan your gourmet tour of the city PLUS Brunch picker: Your recipe for a fantastic Friday afternoon...

51 BUYING A HOME

33 ACTIVITIES & WELLBEING Make the most of the great outdoors and the great weather, with everything from sailing to paintball, from painting to yachting and from skiing to helicopter tours.

The perks and pitfalls of investing in the city PLUS Property picker: Find your dream home in Dubai

55 READER OFFERS Turn to this page for discounts and special DXB promotions galore

Produced by: HOT Media Publishing Advertising enquiries: advertising@hotmediapublishing.com Editorial enquiries: editorial@hotmediapublishing.com Designer: Jenni Dennis Cover Design: Andrea Norris Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in DXB magazine. Printed by: ESP Colour Ltd, Swindon. Printed using vegetable-based inks on FSC-certified stock. The printer has been awarded the Environmental standard ISO 14001.

1 DXB JULY 2008

On Arrival

Touch down, cruise through the airport (stopping to pick up some essential provisions) and get yourself on the road. Your holiday starts here...

D NEENOW K TO

Protect yourself

Weather wise Dubai is starting to heat up this month. Daytime temperatures will hit up to 40 degrees celsius, while the nightime can be as warm as 20 degrees celsius. When heading out in the day, make sure to slap on some high SPF suntan lotion at the earliest opportunity.

Duty Free

Get connected While you’re in Duty Free you might like to pick up an ‘Ahlan’ sim card for your phone. Roaming with your UK mobile can be very expensive, even when receiving a call, so an Ahlan sim’s a good investment if you intend to use your phone much while in Dubai. The cards cost Dhs90 (£15), they’re compatible with all handsets and come loaded with 90 minutes of free local calls, three minutes of free international calls and nine free SMS messages. Pop the card in and you’ll be chatting within a couple of hours. Topup cards cost Dhs25 (£4) or Dhs40 (£7) from supermarkets, concierges and petrol stations.

Airport cabs As you leave the terminal building, you may be approached by men

offering private taxis. Ignore their unlicensed services and head instead for the large taxi rank on your left. You’ll find the meter starts at Dhs30 (£5) - this is unique to airport cabs, and normal cabs start at Dhs3 (see The City for more details).

Car Hire If you want to explore the emirate of Dubai and the wider UAE you need to hire a car. Companies such as Dollar/Thrifty (04 224 4855/04 224 5404), Hertz (04 206 0206) and Budget (04 295 6667) have offices at the airport and to hire one of their cars you’ll just need your driving license, passport and a credit card. Minor road accidents are common in Dubai, so before you sign anything, make sure the rental company has specified what happens in the event of vehicle damage. Dollar/Thrifty have child seats for hire at a cost of Dhs10 (£1.70) per day, while both Budget and Hertz charge a one-off fee of Dhs75 (£12.50). The upper speed

limit in Dubai is 120km/h, and many of the main roads are lined with speed cameras. If you are photographed speeding in a rental car, the fine will be passed on to the rental firm for you to settle when you hand back the keys.

JUST A PHRASE

“

Once you’ve cleared passport control, you have the option to pop into the extensive Duty Free shop before picking up your bags. If you’d like to buy some booze for your hotel room, be aware that you’re limited to five items (bottles of wine or spirits or packs of beer) per person.

Dubai is a truly international city and passport control may well be the only time during your entire trip that you’ll speak with an Emirati. However, it’s just as well to have some key bits of Arabic up your sleeve in case... Marhaba Hello Sabah al-khayr Good morning Minfadlak Please Shukran Thank you Ma’assalama Goodbye

MONEY: The official currency of the UAE is the dirham, which you’ll see abbreviated to DHS or AED when written. JULY 2009 DXB 3

The City

Welcome to Dubai, the boldest, brashest and brightest metropolis in the Middle East: you’re going to love it zebra crossings which aren’t light-controlled are ignored by the majority of drivers, so don’t step out expecting oncoming vehicles to stop. Remember too that cars drive on the right in Dubai.

Taxis

Safety on the road Hardly anyone walks in Dubai, so if you do set out on foot, be aware that cars aren’t used to passing pedestrians and travel at speed whenever possible. When it comes to crossing roads,

Dubai is well served by taxis (you can either call 04 208 0808 to order one, or hail one in the street) and if you’re only in the city for a short time, or are content to stay within its limits, they are your best bet for getting around. Fares start at Dhs3 (around 50p) – Dhs6 if you book one in advance. If you have small children, be aware that none of the taxi companies are able to provide safety seats. There’s a dearth of pavements in Dubai which makes walking along

streets practically impossible in a number of areas. For this reason, you may have no option but to use a taxi to travel very short distances. This used to infuriate some drivers, who would only get going if you promised them an especially big tip. The situation has recently changed, however, with the intorduction of a ten dirham minimum fee for trips, which has resolved the issue.

Road toll (Salik) If you’re driving about in Dubai you’ll be subject to the ‘Salik’ or road toll. On Sheikh Zayed Road up by Mall of the Emirates and on the Bur Dubai side of Garhoud bridge you’ll pass under clearly-marked signs where you’ll automatically be charged Dhs4 (53p). If you’re in a rental car it will be added to your final bill: taxis are exempt from the toll.

KEEP YOUR EYES PEELED Watch out for the following as you speed around town…

THE DUBAI METRO See those T-shaped stone pylons plonked by the side of the road and topped with concrete slabs? That’s the fledgling metro, which is set to open next year.

RAFFLES A Pyramid? In Dubai? Oh yes - although in lieu of mummies and sarcophagi Raffles Dubai is stuffed with fine restaurants, champagnestocked bars and luxury bedrooms.

EMIRATES TOWERS

THE BURJ AL ARAB

A jaw-dropping pair of ’scrapers with razorsharp lines and gleaming glass sides, the Emirates Towers set the futuristic tone for the rest of Sheikh Zayed Road.

This sail-shaped icon is known as the ‘World’s Only Seven Star Hotel’. That’s not actually true – there’s no such thing as a seven star hotel. Still, it’s awfully nice inside.

SHEIKH ZAYED You’ll see this gentleman’s portrait on billboards throughout town. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the father of the UAE, shepherded the nation through its extraordinary growth.

TRAFFIC - Try and avoid taking a cab or driving during the rush hour times of 8-10am, 1-3pm and 6-9pm. 4 DXB JULY 2009

KISSING: DON’T… PHOTOS: DO…

HAND GESTURES: DON’T...

take photographs for posterity but avoid military sites and ask permission if you wish to snap a local person. Many will be happy to pose for a photo but be sure to wait for their approval.

make rude hand gestures if you’re driving. The standard of driving in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired but venting your frustrations either physically or verbally can result in your arrest.

be too passionate in public with your partner. The UAE is a Muslim country and more reserved than the UK when it comes to public displays of affection - anything heavier than a kiss on the cheek may offend those around you and even get you in trouble with the police.

Dos & Don’ts BIKINIS: DO… feel free to wear bikinis on hotel beaches or by private pools but out of respect for local culture, do cover up – a sarong will suffice – if you’re lying on a public beach. Due to local sensibilities, topless bathing is not allowed in the city.

Dubai is a comparatively liberal city when compared to its near neighbours, and is very welcoming of Western visitors and tolerant of their sometimes different attitudes and expectations. Still, there are a few key things to bear in mind to make sure your stay is totally trouble free...

ALCOHOL DON’T… drink or be seen to be drunk outside of licensed premises in hotels. Beware that drinking alcohol is not an accepted part of Muslim culture and that drunken behaviour in the street and drink driving are both punished harshly.

DRUGS: DON’T… forget that there is zero tolerance of drug use in Dubai and that conviction is likely to earn you a four-year prison sentence. While you’re extremely unlikely to be offered drugs in Dubai, if you are then you know the drill just say no.

CENSORSHIP: DO… TAXIS: DON’T… expect taxi drivers to carry change. Many struggle to provide change for any note greater than a Dhs50 (£8.40), So try to have a ready supply of smaller notes if you’re taking cabs.

be aware that international publications sold in Dubai are open to censorship - anything risqué in copies of the Sun, FHM etc. will have a black mark through it, and sex scenes are cut in all films shown in the city.

TIPPING: DO… tip in restaurants if you wish. A service charge is often added to the total but if it isn’t, a figure of 15% is standard. If you’re tipping porters and beach boys, Dhs20 (£3.40) is plenty.

SAFETY: Dubai has extremely low levels of crime. As always, though, you should keep your wits about you. JULY 2009 DXB 5

10 EXPERIENCES YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS

We’ve picked out our very favourite activities: don’t miss these off your holiday hit-list

Tucking in to a Friday Brunch

These all-you-can-eat-anddrink festivals of gluttony are one of the city’s real trademarks. Be prepared to lift your jaw from the floor and bid bye-bye to your belt. For our rundown on the city’s best brunches, see p21.

Tackling the Red Run at Ski Dubai Yup, that’s right, this desert city has its own ski slope. With real snow. They supply all the equipment, you supply elegant turns - or tumbles - and wide-eyed disbelief at the sheer surreality of it all. For more info turn to p35

Bar-hopping at Madinat Jumeirah The biggest resort in the city, where they have no fewer than 45 restaurants and bars, many of them with al fresco seating set beside turtle-filled fauxVenetian canals on which water taxis float by. Turn to p18 for our suggested boozing itinerary

Treating yourself at the mall Sunshine, culture, and Olde Arabian charm are all well and good. But Dubai’s biggest attraction is its horde of glossy malls with their designer goodies and grand boulevards stuffed with chichi boutiques. Flip to p31 to pick the perfect mall

Haggling in a souk Enjoy some commercial brinkmanship - and animated conversations with fake-goods peddlers - securing bargains on gold, diamonds, spices, clothes, and, er, fish. Enormous fun. Turn to p28 for our line-up of the city’s best souks and p31 for a haggling masterclass

Camel-trekking in the desert

And 4x4 riding, and dune-buggying, and sand-boarding, and hot air ballooning. Just make sure you fit in a trip to the vast, sandy wilderness that surrounds this noisy colossus of a city. See p33 for our guide to the best desert tours in town

Cruising round the islands The Palm Islands, that is, along with the World Islands and the currentlyunder-construction Universe Islands. Welcome to Dubai. Turn to p35 to find out how to hit the water.

Playing a round At one of the city’s picture perfect golf courses. Just like playing 18 holes in the UK, minus the imminent threat of flash-flooding. Turn to p38 for our pick of the very best courses.

Visiting a ladies’ night for drinks

There are some amazing special drinks offers at the bars of Dubai, all aimed at the fairer sex. Head to one for your share of the free and heavily discounted tipples. Head to p50 for our preview of the best ladies’ nights in town.

Hanging out in Bastakia This tiny enclave of Old Dubai is a jumble of traditional architecture and winding alleyways with galleries and cafés aplenty. See p36 for our guide to the area.

TOURISTS: The Dubai government is hoping that by 2010 you’ll be one of 15 million annual visitors to the city. 6 DXB JUNE 2009

DUBAI BY NUMBERS

COVER CARD

800

The rumoured final height in metres of the Burj Dubai. Currently the tower stands at well over 700 metres and new floors are constantly being added. The exact size of the complete tower is being kept under wraps for fear of it being usurped – by ongoing rival constructions elsewhere – as the world’s tallest building.

2,000

The number of men named Mohammed who gathered together in a Dubai park, setting a world record for a single congregation of the people with the same name.

6,000,000

The prize money in US dollars handed out to the owners of American horse Curlin, who won the 2008 Dubai World Cup – the richest horse race in the world.

1,200

The number of stores to be housed in the insanely large Dubai Mall, which will have opened its doors by the time you read this.

100,000,000

The number of US dollars Dubai paid out to buy the historic ocean liner QE2. The ship is to be moored off the Palm Jumeirah and opened up as a tourist attraction.

Clockwise from this image: Pierchic, Vu’s, Villa Beach

OUT FOR THE DISCOUNT

Amazing reductions for all DXB readers at some of the best restaurants, cafes and bars in the city Just in case you’ve not noticed it yet, on the front of your copy of DXB this month is a special card. Grab it, study it carefully and slip it in your wallet – it’s your passport to some fantastic discounts of up to 30% at over 40 of the city’s best restaurants. All you’ve got to do is pay with your Visa or Visa Electron card when you eat out at Jumeirah’s properties at Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 406 8999), Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 6730) and Jumeirah Emirates Towers (04 319 8088). And they’ve got a fantastic list of restaurants on offer – see the ‘Eating and Drinking’ section for reviews of some of the best. In particular, you

mustn’t miss out on Villa Beach at Jumeirah Beach Hotel, the Pierchic seafood restaurant at Madinat Jumeirah or sky-high fine dining spot Vu’s at Jumeirah Emirates Towers. See the card for all terms and conditions - and happy dining!

USEFUL NUMBERS: 997 Fire Service, 998 Ambulance, 999 Police, 04 309 4444 British Consulate, 199 Directory Enquiries JULY 2009 DXB 7

THE CIT Y MAP HOTELS & RESORTS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Park Hotel Hotel Arabian Park Aviation Club Burj Al Arab Al Bustan Rotana Century Village Courtyard Marriott Marriott Courtyard Plaza Crowne Plaza Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club Dubai Marine Beach Resort The Fairmont GoldenHyatt Hyatt Tulip Dubai (Al Dubai Barsha) Grand Grand Grosvenor Hyatt House DubaiHotel Hotel Grosvenor House Grosvenor Grand House Hotel Habtoor Grand Habtoor Grand Hard Rock Café Hard Rock Café Hilton Dubai Creek

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 24 25 26 27 28 29

Creek Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Hilton Regency Dubai Jumeirah Hyatt Dubai HyattVillage Regency Dubai Irish Irish Village Jumeirah Beach Hotel Beach Hotel Jumeirah Emirates Towers Emirates Towers Jumeirah Rotana Jumeirah Rotana JW Marriott Hotel JW Marriott Hotel (incl. Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Madinat Jumeirah (incl. Al Qasr, Mina A'Salam & Souk Madinat) Mina A'Salam & Souk Madinat) Le Meridien Dubai Le Meridien Mina DubaiSeyahi Le MeridienAirport Mina Seyahi Millennium Hotel Millennium Mövenpick Airport Hotel Mövenpick Al Murooj Rotana Al Murooj Rotana Novotel

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44

Novotel Oasis Beach Hotel OasisHyatt Hyatt BeachDubai Dubai Hotel Park Park HyattHotel Dubai President PresidentSAS Hotel City Radisson Media City Media Creek Creek City Radisson SAS Dubai Radisson SAS Dubai Creek Hotel Ramee International Hotel RameePlaza International Hotel Hotel Regal Hotel Ritz-Carlton Regal Plaza Hotel Ritz-Carlton Ritz-Carlton Royal Mirage Royal Mirage Inn The Rush Inn The Rush Plaza Inn Rydges Plaza Rydges Plaza Shangri-la Shangri-la Sheraton Dubai Dubai Jumeirah Jumeirah Sheraton Sheraton Somerset Some rset Dubai Jadaf Jumeirah Apartments Somerset (Ascott)Tulip Jadaf Apartments Golden

Palm Island Jumeirah JEBEL ALI

(Emirates Kart Centre)

Jumeirah

Burj al Arab Beach Hotel

42 17

37 14

11 24

D ROA YED A Z IKH SHE

15 7

Emirates Golf Club

Ski Dubai

ROAD H BEACH

Jumeirah

JUMEIRA

MALLS & SOUKS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

ATTRACTIONS

Beach Centre Bur Juman City Centre Dragon Mart Gold and Diamond Park Gold Souk Ibn Battuta Mall Lamcy Plaza Mall of the Emirates Mercato Mall Souk Madinat Spice Souk Textile souk Town Centre Mall The Village Mall Wafi

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Arabian Ranches Golf Course Creekside Park Dubai Autodrome Dubai Country Club Jumeirah Beach Park Montgomerie Dubai Golf Course Al Nasr Leisureland Safa Park Wild Wadi

u/c = under construction

Dubai 18 15 5 J

AH UMEIR

BEAC

D H ROA 10

Satwa

12 35

Bastakia

Karama

Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club

Emirates Towers

8 31

12 43 1

THE CREEK

23 3

Deira

Maktoum Bridge

The Burj Dubai (u/c)

32 2 8

41 D ED ROA SHEIKH ZAY

Bur Dubai

7 8

39 13

Jumeirah Mosque

Garhoud Bridge

27 2 5 19

4 25

Dubai International Airport

EATING & DRINKING Dinner outdoors

NEED TO KNOW All licensed restaurants are located in hotels. You don’t need to be staying in a hotel to visit it for dinner, but try to reserve in advance. After each review is the cost of the average two-person, three course dinner with a glass of house wine. Unlicensed venues are marked with a * and costs here correspond to dinner for two with soft drinks. $-

Less than Dhs100 (£17) $$ Dhs100-200 (£17-£33.50) $$$ - Dhs200-350 (£33.50-£58.50) $$$$ - Dhs350-500 (£58.50-£83.50) $$$$$ - More than Dhs500 (£83.50)

Dubaians adore to eat al fresco and the city has some top spots for open-air dining. On the beach strip, Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 348 0000) has a great waterside joint, the Villa Beach restaurant, whose tables sit out in the shade of the Burj Al Arab and whose Mediterranean menu generally hits the spot. $$$$. Another Gulf-hugging eatery is Barasti Bar at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi (04 399 3333), reached by means of a winding path through the hotel’s landscaped grounds. Get yourself a table out on the terrace and you can look forward to some excellent light food under the stars, with the crashing surf at your back. $$$ Just a ten minute stroll from the Barasti, over at the neighbouring Westin hotel, you’ll find Bussola (04 399 4141), a brilliant Italian restaurant, with a fantastic open-tothe-elements pizzeria on its roof, which serves up some seriously fabulous food. Nothing complex, nothing sophisticated – just piping hot, freshly-thrown pizzas with high quality toppings. $$$ For pure, unadulterated class, the One&Only Royal Mirage (04 399 9999) offers the exquisite Beach Bar and Grill (book a table on the terrace) and Eau Zone, a top fusion restaurant with a mad menu and tables surrounded by artistically lit swimming pools. $$$$$ At the other end of town you’ll find QDs at the Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht

Club (04 295 6000 $$), an open-air bar/ restaurant where expats gather each night to sip cold beers and eat hot-fromthe-oven pizzas by the Creek’s edge (try the cheese and fresh mushrooms number). If you’re feeling a bit hungrier, book a table at the next door Boardwalk (04 295 6000 $$$), where they do hearty pub-style food. Just round the corner at the Park Hyatt hotel (04 602 1234), you’ll find The Terrace, a small, classy bar with a great view over the water, a smart wine list and an insanely popular ‘raw bar’ offering light bites in the form of oysters, sushi and chilled seafood. $$$ If you feel like getting out of the bustle of the city, we recommend making a beeline for Al Hadheerah restaurant at the Bab Al Shams desert resort (04 832 6699), about half an hour’s drive out of town. Here you can sit out under the stars in the heart of the dunes, gorging on grilled meats, fresh breads and Arabic mezze while taking in entertainment from bellydancers and chugging down on some seriously tasty shisha. $$$$

A taste of the Middle East It’s sadly virtually impossible to get yourself a taste of traditional Emirati food, unless you’re invited into a local’s home. Happily, though, there’s plenty of fantastic Lebanese and Iranian food on offer to fill the gap. JULY 2009 DXB 11

EATING & DRINKING

Going out for dinner is a huge part of life for Dubaians, and the city’s restaurants are always full to the rafters. Each month sees two or three new five star spots join the fray, bidding for your tourist dirhams with a mixture of gimmicks and gourmet knowhow...

Lime Tree Cafe Right: Bussola

EATING & DRINKING

Al Nafoorah at Jumeirah Emirates Towers (04 330 0000) has note-perfect Lebanese mezze (make sure not to miss the rosemary-laced puréed roast potatoes and the fabulous baba ganoush) and grills, washed down with bottles from the Bekaa Valley. If you possibly can, get a seat on the terrace, which has stunning views of the hyper-modern towers. $$$ Over at Bastakiah Nights in Bastakiah (04 353 7772), you can enjoy far too much classic Lebanese food in one of the oldest venues in town, a renovated building made of coral from the Creek. $$$ * Alternatively, on Al Dhiyafah Road in Satwa you’ll find lots of extremely cheap, extremely good Lebanese restaurants – try Sidra (04 345 3044) or Al Mallah (04 398 4723), a cheerful roadside caff offering speedy hits of kibbeh, hummos and shish taouk kebabs to hungry pedestrians. The freshly-made shoarmas and cheese manaeesh breads are among Dubai’s best bargains. $ * The flamboyant AlMaz by Momo (04 409 8877) in Harvey Nichols at Mall of the Emirates is a smart place for a bite after a mammoth shopping session. The decor is ostentatious and the light, masterful Moroccan mezze are outstanding. $$ * If you’re in the mood for Iranian food, you can’t go wrong with the cheerful Sarband at Century Village (04 283 3891). $$ Alternatively, the more upmarket Shabestan at the Radisson 12 DXB JULY 2009

SAS Dubai Deira Creek is beautifully decked out and run by masters of Persian cuisine (04 205 7333). $$$

Café culture Dubai is fuelled by a sea of caffeine, making café culture enormously big business. While generic international coffee houses abound, there are still some kookier, more fun options on offer. The Lime Tree Café (04 349 8498), next to Jumeirah Mosque and The One on Jumeirah Beach Road, is a staunch favourite among clued-up Dubaians. This luminous villa hangout offers wonderful fresh salads, paninis, frittatas and grills, finished off with the best slice of carrot cake in the Middle East. $$ * XVA Café (04 353 5383, closed Fridays) is a beautiful spot set in the courtyard of a windtower-topped building in the oldest part of town. Don’t miss their superb ‘magaloumi’ sandwich made with halloumi and roasted vegetables. $$ * If you’re over in Jumeirah and fancy a high quality coffee and designer snack after a little bit of shopping, head to the first floor café at The One (04 345 6687), Dubai’s homegrown interiors store. And should you fancy some delicatessen-style dinner, you could swing by the Counter Culture café in The Harbour at Dubai Marina (04 303 4222), which does a nice line in wraps, salads and hot specials, and is unique among Dubai’s cafes in serving booze. Finally, if you just want a fantastic

THE INSIDE TRACK Our menu crib sheet for Middle-Eastern eateries… Baba ghanouj A rich, smoky aubergine dip. Baklava Flaky mini pastries covered with pistachio nuts and honey. Fattoush A zingy salad made with squares of toasted flatbread plus tomatoes, rocket and lemon. Halloumi Arabic cheese, grilled and served up in sandwiches and salads. Kibbeh Lamb Mince mixed with wheat and served either raw or deep fried in rugbyshaped balls. Sounds awful, tastes delicious. Sambousek Tiny pastry parcels filled with cheese or lamb mince.

THE FAMILY TRIP For a relaxing afternoon out, try the imaginative and arty Café Céramique at the Town Centre Mall in Jumeirah (04 344 7331). Take your kids down and they’ll spend an afternoon painting ceramic animals, piggy banks and plates, which will be professionally fired and ready for collection a couple of days later. While they’re exploring their arty side, you can indulge in coffee and delicious wedges of home-made chocolate cake.

sandwich to take away to the park with you, stop by New York favourite Dean & DeLuca (04 4200 336) in Souk Al Bahar in Old Town (the area just round the huge Burj Dubai). Its banks of glistening olives, alluring salads and freshly-baked bread make it a killer option for picnickers.

Bar food Wine bar Vintage at Wafi Pyramids (04 324 0000) serves fine tippling dishes: fondues, upmarket pies and a range of fresh cheeses that get gourmet hearts beating in double time. The bar is small and cosy, with big comfy sofas and Frank and Ella in the background. $$ Small is something Oeno at the Westin Dubai (04 399 4141) is not. Here you’ll find an entire room full of fantastic cheeses to choose from and a fat wine list which spans the old and new worlds with aplomb. $$. Over at the Crowne Plaza Festival City (04 701 2222) you’ll find the marvellous Belgian Beer Café, which is proving very popular for its handsome list of Belgian beers and its moules-frites. The Souk Madinat Jumeirah meanwhile, has so many drinking establishments that a bar crawl around the resort is entirely possible: start at BarZar with one of their pour-your-ownpint machines and end at the Trilogy club. When you stop off for a bite to eat, do so at Trader Vic’s (04 366 5646),

XVA Café is a beautiful spot set in the courtyard of a windtower-topped building. Don’t miss their superb ‘magaloumi’ sandwich made with halloumi and roasted vegtables whose filling Polynesian sharing platters hit the spot nicely. $$ If you’re in the mood for cocktails, then Ginseng at Wafi City (04 324 0000) should be your first port of call: happily this chic hangout does a good line in Asian-esque tapas (make sure to order the Thai green curry-filled spring rolls). $$

Pub grub Dubai is crammed with Brit, Aussie and Irish-style pubs offering cold lager and hearty stomach-lining food. Rather incongruously, most of these outlets offer waiter service: not quite the authentic pub experience, then… The infamous Irish Village (04 282 4750) has an enormous terrace and a pleasant view over a pitch ‘n’ putt and a neighbouring duckpond. Food consists of tasty stews, saussies and roast meats plus chunky sandwiches with chips. $$ Just down the road, Dubliners at Le Meridien Dubai (04 282 4040) offers a similar experience in a smaller venue. JULY 2009 DXB 13

EATING & DRINKING

The XVA Cafe

Sahn Eddar

EATING & DRINKING

We’re big fans of the food at the Dhow & Anchor - gastropub style renderings of classic Brit dishes like ﬁsh & chips Their carnivore-pleasing traditional Irish breakfasts are huge, and backed up with slices of soda bread baked on the premises. $$ We’re big fans of the food at the Dhow & Anchor at Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 348 0000) – gastropub style renderings of classic Brit dishes, with an unmissable fish and chips. For a friendly welcome and some straightforward pub grub, try Aussie Legends at Rydges Plaza Hotel (04 398 2222), which offers pool, cheap pints and decent burgers. $$

No-expensespared dinners The city’s top restaurants can hold their own against anything New York, Paris or London have to offer. Serious foodies should make every effort to try the Dhs495 (£82.50) seven course dégustation menu at Gordon Ramsay’s Dubai venture, Verre (Hilton Dubai Creek, 04 227 1111). Ramsay’s signature dishes are backed up with an impressive international wine list. $$$$$ Over at the Monarch Dubai (04 501 8888), the recently-opened fine diner Empire is getting foodies excited with 14 DXB JULY 2009

its flamboyantly lavish decor, friendly service and ace seafood creations their made-at-the-table tuna tartare is a particular treat. Meanwhile, for some cutting edge Japanese food you’ll want to make bookings at Zuma in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC, 04 425 5660), where they serve some masterful dishes, including a soft shell crab worthy of an Oscar. $$$$$ If you like classic French haute cuisine but without the pretension, you should give a call to Le Classique at the Emirates Golf Club (04 380 2222). After a warm-up drink in the bar, you’ll move in to the low-lit main room for steaks with lashings of bearnaise: marvellous. $$$$$ Mixing things up is superhip international restaurant brand The Buddha Bar at Grosvenor House Hotel (04 399 8888), which splices a dozen different Asian cuisines in its ambitious – and pricey – menu, all served in a dining room dominated by a huge golden Buddha and filled with the city’s beautiful people. $$$$$ Meanwhile, Euro-Asian dining fusion restaurant Tang at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi (04 399 3333) is bemusing customers with dishes like teppanyaki turbot, crayfish tartare and coconut noodles. Our advice is to set your tastebuds loose on the tasting menu. $$$$$

Dinner at the Burj Al Arab Brace your credit cards: eating at the

Junsui Left: Al Mahara

EATING & DRINKING

Burj Al Arab (04 301 7600), the city’s iconic sail-shaped hotel, is a painfully expensive, although usually extremely enjoyable experience. The best eatery at the Burj is Al Mahara, a seafood restaurant reached by means of a rather odd fake submarine ride. Get on board the device and you’ll be gently lowered down a couple of levels as computer-generated fish swim by on eye-level monitors. The restaurant twists round a great tank of tropical fish, which provide a backdrop to some seriously delicious creations. Make sure to kick the evening off in style with a dozen oysters: bliss. $$$$$ The décor is bizarre, but Al Muntaha, perched at the top of the hotel, has spectacular views of the Palm Jumeirah as well as immaculate European fine dining, with a particular emphasis on delicate, divine soufflés. $$$$$ Then there’s relative newcomer Junsui, an oriental buffet restaurant which offers immaculate pan-Asian cuisine turned out at 12 live cooking stations. $$$$ If you’re not bothered about entering the Burj itself, you could go for dinner at Majlis Al Bahar, situated on the private beach opposite the hotel. Here you can take a table a stone’s throw from the shore and sample a more relaxed Middle East-Med menu as the waves crash and the oud players twiddle away. The ultra-expensive gourmet pizzas are astounding. $$$$$ 16 DXB JULY 2009

Probably the easiest way to gain access to the world’s only seven star hotel is to book in for afternoon tea at Sahn Eddar, the mezzanine-level tea room. Here you can indulge in tea, pastries and tiny sandwiches while soaking up the ludicrously decadent atmosphere. If you’re prepared to really splash out, make it a champagne tea for Dhs350 (£58.40) per head. Don’t expect to be blown away by the food, but the setting takes some beating. $$$$$

Stunning curries There are hundreds of Indian, Pakistani and Thai restaurants in the city: try these on for size. If you’re interested in tasting some of the most powerful and authentic North Indian food available in Dubai, then Handi restaurant at the Taj Palace Hotel (04 223 2222) is the place. The house speciality birianis – baked in pastry-topped pots – are superb. $$$ * The unlicensed Rupee Room at Dubai Marina (04 390 5755) is an offshoot of a Glasgow-based chain, which prides itself on offering ‘British’-style curries as well as accomplished and authentic Punjabi food. It’s a great place for an evening of spice on a lovely terrace overlooking the Marina. $$ * Just down the road at the Grosvenor House Hotel (04 399 8888) is Indego, a fine dining Indian spot offering exotic dishes at high prices. $$$$$

THE BUSINESS TRIP To impress a client over dinner, we recommend Zheng He’s at Mina A’ Salam (04 366 8888). By far the best Chinese restaurant in town, Zheng’s offers exemplary food: load your dining partner up with exquisite wasabi prawns and sizzled beef tenderloin and they’ll be signing on the dotted line before they know it. Alternatively, try Bice at the Hilton Dubai Jumeirah (04 399 1111). This ace Italian restaurant features private dining rooms where you can get stuck into superb pastas while talking shop.

By far the best Chinese restaurant in town, Zheng He’s oﬀers exemplary food: load your dining partner up with exquisite wasabi prawns and sizzled beef tenderloin Asha’s at Wafi City (04 324 0000) is part owned by Asha Bhosle, of ‘Brimful of Asha’ fame. The curries are innovative and highly tasty, and are served in a pretty room full of Asha memorabilia. We advise you to order a couple of house speciality cocktails to get the evening off to the right start. $$$ At Nina at the Royal Mirage (04 399 9999), subcontinental fusion is the order of the day. Drawing on exotic ingredients and a spread of Asian cooking methods, they’ll baffle your tastebuds with their spicy creations. $$$$$ Finally, long hailed as the city’s finest cheap Pakistani restaurant by in-theknow Dubaians, Ravi’s on Satwa Road in Satwa (04 331 5353) offers foolishly good-value curries in an extremely basic dining room. Hand over Dhs20 (£3.50) and you’ll have far too much to finish: the beef nihari is a particular pleasure. $*

Superb seafood Dubai’s waterside location means that seafood is plentiful and fresh. Visit any

of the following restaurants for a crash course in the best the Gulf has to offer. Pisces at Souk Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 8888) is a place of worship for all things fishy. You can’t go wrong with their à la carte selection: you’d be mad not to include the wonderful whole seabass in your order. $$$$ At the Shangri-la’s exquisite Amwaj (04 343 8888), similarly excellent dishes are on offer, backed up with a wine list that makes vinophiles go weak at the knees. The setting’s light and airy and the Amwaj Oysters are second to none. $$$$ Finally, if you’re looking to splurge on seafood, try Singaporean joint Peppercrab at the Grand Hyatt (04 317 1234). You pick your own fish which are then sizzled in spice and accompanied by lashings of noodles. Do not miss out on the fabulous king crab with a biting black bean sauce. $$$$$

The perfect steak Carnivores are spoilt for choice in Dubai, and most hotels have their own variation on the tried and tested grilled-meat-andfried-potatoes formula. If you’re feeling in the mood for slices of sizzled prime rib with dauphinoise potatoes, with a pianist plunking in the background and a sleek modern bar to crash in after dinner for cognac and cigars, Palm Grill at the Radisson SAS Dubai Deira Creek (04 222 7171) is among the best in the business. $$$ JULY 2009 DXB 17

EATING & DRINKING

Zheng He’s

Da-Shi-Dai Right:Vu’s restaurant

EATING & DRINKING

MJ’s at Al Qasr at the Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 8888) is a relative newcomer that scores highly for its hearty cuts and its adorable wagyu beef. They do a nice surf and turf combo too, if you’re looking for some seafood with your steak. $$$$ For South American-style steaks, head on over to Pachanga at the Hilton Dubai Jumeirah (04 399 1111), where your prime meat is served to a backdrop of latino music. $$$ Alternatively, you could whizz to The Palace hotel in the Old Town area (04 428 7888) and enjoy Argentinean tenderloins and tunes at the excellent Asado. $$$$ The Exchange at the Fairmont hotel (04 332 5555) is a good-looking place, whose commitment to beef cannot be doubted. Expect your filet mignons to be served with a rainbow array of mustards and inspired sauces. After dinner, make sure to stagger next door to the beautiful cigar bar to round things off. $$$$ Meanwhile, JW’s Steakhouse at the JW Marriott (04 607 7977) is one of the oldest steakhouses in Dubai, but still one of the best, while one of the city’s newest is the awesome Ruth’s Chris (04 501 8666) at The Monarch. Here you’ll find superior service, good wines by the glass and, most importantly, mouthwatering meat. $$$$

Brilliant burgers If you’re in need of a burger, there’s 18 DXB JULY 2009

only one place to head for: Johnny Rocket’s, which you’ll find opposite Jumeirah Centre Mall on Jumeirah Beach Road (04 344 7859) and at Dubai Marina (04 368 2339). It’s a 50s-style diner which offers high-class burgers that are the very antithesis of the Mcexperience. Beef here is treated with respect – grilled, lightly dashed with relish and served in fresh buns in a friendly atmosphere. The calorific milkshakes and wicked desserts make this feel-good joint a major favourite with kids. Scarlett’s at Emirates Towers (04 330 0000) and Barasti Bar at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi (04 399 3333) do a pretty mean burger too.

Oriental delights Two particularly excellent new Oriental restaurants have recently opened and are wowing Dubaians with some delicious dishes. At the smarter end of the scale, there’s Momotaro on level 3 of the Souk Al Bahar in Downtown Burj Dubai (04 425 7976) $$$$. It’s a gourmet Japanese restaurant which does a fine line in feather-light tempuras, delicate sushis and powerful robatas, including a note-perfect maguro steak with wakame sauce. It’s a great place to go for a well-priced, first class dinner and does a fantastic value business lunch too - only Dhs79 (£13) per head. Meanwhile, at the more casual end of

DID YOU KNOW? Dubai is home to a tribe of Michelin-starred chefs. There’s Gordon Ramsay with Verre at the Hilton Dubai Creek (04 227 1111), and over at the Grosvenor House Hotel (04 399 8888), they’ve got Mezzanine by Gary Rhodes, and Indego, managed by superchef Vineet Bhatia. Then there’s Frankie’s at Dubai Marina (04 399 4311), run by Frankie Dettori and Marco Pierre White, and Pierre Gagnaire’s new joint, ‘Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire’, at the InterContinental Fesitval City (04 701 1111). Meanwhile, at Atlantis, The Palm (04 426 1000) there’s a Nobu, plus eateries from two-starred chefs Giorgio Locatelli and Michel Rostang and three-starred Santi Santamaria.

Momotaro is a gourmet Japanese restaurant which does a ﬁne line in feather-light tempuras, delicate sushis and powerful robatas, including a note-perfect maguro steak with wakame sauce the scale, there’s Da-Shi-Dai, a lovely Chinese spot at the base of the Murjan towers at Jumeirah Beach Residence (04 426 4636) $$$, where they serve up small, shareable portions so you get to taste a spread of different things. They do a nice line in authentic dim sum (don’t miss the prawn and bamboo dumpling and the bang bang chicken) alongside blissful stir fries and classic stalwarts like Beijing duck.

Jaw-dropping views From a window seat at Vu’s on the 50th floor of Emirates Towers (04 330 0000) you get a panoramic view over the majesty of Sheikh Zayed Road and the cluttered villa dwellings of Satwa with the Burj Al Arab twinkling in the far distance. The modern European food’s good though not always outstanding, and the prices are hefty: if you want a cheaper option, just go for drinks at the 51st floor Vu’s Bar instead. $$$$

Dinners don’t come much more dreamy than on the Bateau Dubai (04 399 4994), a restaurant boat which sets out each night from Al Seef Road on the Bur Dubai Creekside opposite the British Embassy. It offers gently unfolding views of the city’s waterfront and a modern European menu cooked fresh by onboard chefs. $$$$ Recently opened at the Souk Bahar, Rivington Grill (04 423 0903) is a lovely bistro offering first class British food try the fish and chips in dreamy light batter with minted mushy peas and the best chips in the city. The terrace views over Burj Dubai, the world’s tallest tower, are terribly grand. Perched at the end of a private boardwalk that stretches out from its immaculate stretch of shoreline, Pierchic at Al Qasr at the Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 8888) has one of the best settings in Dubai, with the Burj Al Arab to the right and the Gulf crashing beneath your feet. The wily menu is seafood-centric, with an emphasis on fresh local produce. $$$$

Dinner deals At the JW Marriott (04 607 7977), you have a choice of two all-you-caneat-and-drink restaurants. Bamboo Lagoon has sushi and stir-fries and Market Place flame-grilled steaks, pasta, oysters and curries. Both charge Dhs255 (£42.50) per head. JULY 2009 DXB 19

EATING & DRINKING

Momotaro Left: Pierchic

Special Holiday Packages Available P.O. Box 125962 Dubai, UAE Tel +971 4 3417750 Fax +971 4 3417751 hotelinfo@goldentulipalbarsha.com www.goldentulipalbarsha.com Operated by Flamingo Hotel Management Co.

Friday Brunch Picker

The long-drawn-out Friday Brunch is a steadfast tradition in Dubai. There’s a baffling array of options on offer: use our Picker to choose the perfect place to laze away your afternoon... START Champagne

City Centre

French

Hit Traiteur at Park Hyatt Dubai (04 602 1234) for a Dhs550 (£92) limitless Veuve Clicquot brunch, where you can gorge on a calorific, belt-threatening combination of French and international food.

Seaside

Regular Booze

Cheap and cheerful

Try the elegant Marina, perched out in the water at Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 406 8999) for their Dhs465 (£77.50) seafoody brunch with free-flowing champers.

Waxy O’Conner’s at the Ascot Hotel (04 352 0900) is a boisterous, unpretentious spot for a thoroughly good value Dhs70 (£11.50) brunch comprising five pints plus a fried breakfast and roast lunch.

International

Four hours

Spectrum on One at the Fairmont (04 311 8316) does brunch with non-stop Moet at Dhs550 (£92) and Yalumba at Le Meridien Dubai (04 282 4040) plies you with fizz and food for Dhs429 (£71.50).

The Dhs495 (£82.50) Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 8888) brunch spans the Al Qasr and Mina A’Salam hotels, offering up a staggeringly large spread of fabulous food and freeflowing booze to boot.

Sophisticated

Six hours

The JW Marriott (04 607 7977) offers a six hour brunch extravaganza priced at Dhs295 (£49), with serving stations spread across two restaurants and a limitless supply of wine and beers.

JULY 2009 DXB 21

SHOPPING Designer clothes

NEED TO KNOW Late night shopping is encouraged - most malls remain open until midnight.

Dubai is awash with designer labels. And while most malls have at least a sprinkling of high-fashion stores, BurJuman is the most label-loaded of all. Here you’ll find all the usual suspects – Dolce & Gabanna, Donna Karan, Christian Dior, Valentino, Christian Lacroix etc – and the twin-floor Saks Fifth Avenue to boot, where shoe-loving ladies swoon over the in-store Manolo Blahnik boutique. Snapping at BurJuman’s heels in the style stakes is the monolithic Mall of the Emirates, which is not only chock-full of high end stores but also boasts its own designer boulevard, where you’ll find the likes of Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Yves Saint Laurent lined up for your retail pleasure. It even has an Armani Café for post-spree relaxation. Also in Mall of the Emirates is the largest Harvey Nichols store outside of London. Its three floors stock every name you’d expect, but don’t leave before you’ve at least browsed through the racks of jaw-droppingly glamorous evening gowns by Lebanese designer Zuhair Morad, eveningwear designer Reem Acra and the classic red carpet favourite Marchesa. Another enclave of designer boutiques can be found at Wafi, a mall defined not only by its pyramids and sphinx structures but also by its choice of stores, which sees established heavyweights Chanel and Escada rubbing shoulders

with edgy newcomers like Kitson and Roccobarroco. Its flagship store Salam – the largest in the country – houses an absolute wealth of big-name brands. Likewise, Bin Hendi Avenue in Deira City Centre is a stretch of stylish stores, including Donald Trump’s favourite, Brioni. Over at Jumeirah Emirates Towers you’ll find the small but perfectly-formed Boulevard, home to Giorgio Armani and Gucci. But the star of this particular show is Boutique 1. It’s a match for any London boutique and has separate stores for men and women: both are united by the directional, cutting-edge pieces they stock, while the women’s store is also particularly strong on classic haute couture.

While most malls have a sprinkling of highfashion stores, BurJuman is the most label-loaded of all. Here you’ll ﬁnd all the usual suspects and the twin-ﬂoor Saks Fi�h Avenue to boot Other multi-brand designer shops worth checking out are Etoile, which stocks some of the most sought-after Chanel pieces on the planet, Bugatti, where you’ll find the likes of John Galliano JULY 2009 DXB 23

SHOPPING

Dubai simply doesn’t do high streets. As such, the overwhelming majority of its shops are housed within mega malls - some with ski slopes, some with theatres, others with funparks, but all of them crammed with stores galore...

Left to right: Ibn Battuta Mall, BurJuman, Boulevard at Emirates Towers

SHOPPING

and Roberto Cavalli and Rodeo Drive, which does a fantastic line in classic men’s clothing. You should also schedule in a trip to the increasingly cool S*uce. It’s tucked away in the lesser-known Jumeirah Village Mall on Jumeirah Beach Road and features a wealth of designer garb from hard-to-find names like Tsumori Chisato, Vanessa Bruno and Jean Charles de Castelbajac. If you’re fan of diffusion lines, take a trip to Festival Centre for Marc by Marc Jacobs, M Missoni and Tru Trussardi. And if you like to be the first to wear an up-and-coming designer, check out the Unrath and Strano store in Wafi. The duo met whilst working for Vivienne Westwood and their designs have managed to retain the same love of drama and historical costume as the grande dame of British fashion.

High street stores with a difference Yes, Dubai has staple UK favourites like Top Shop, Marks and Spencer, River Island, Next, etc. but prices are more or less equal to those in the UK, and many share the same collections. Others, though, like Zara and Mango, have ranges unique to Dubai, including large selections of eveningwear and glamorous daywear. Mango boasts a special collection by Arabic designer Zuhair Morad, which is only available in the UAE. 24 DXB JULY 2009

Another enclave of designer boutiques can be found at Waﬁ, where established heavyweights Chanel and Escada rub shoulders with edgy newcomers like Kitson and Roccobarroco Spanish stores Stradivarius, Conbipel and Trucco - all of which are yet to open in the UK but are big sellers in the Far East and Australia - have outlets here which are well worth a look, as is Italian favourite Extyn and G2000 from Hong Kong, which both offer extremely good value ways to deck out your work wardrobe with trendy smart/casual wear. Of course, no list of fashion stores would be complete without representatives from Paris, and Caroll, Camaieu and Derhy fly the French flag in Dubai. Expect to find racks of Parisian style minus the outrageous prices. For something a little more Middle Eastern, pop into Turkish store Koton. It’s particularly popular because of the sheer range of everything on offer, from t-shirts and jeans to suits and cocktail dresses, but all of it is beautifully cut: keep an eye out in particular for clothes from Turkish designer Bora Asku.

SHOP WITH THE FISHES The recent opening of Dubai Mall has galvanised the city’s shoppers into action. It’s the largest mall in the world, a gargantuan space that offers you the shopping equivalent of a marathon. Taking a morning’s cruise along its store-lined streets is a key part of any trip to Dubai - but make sure to leave at least half an hour free to stand and gawp at the immense and exotic aquarium, which draws big crowds every day.

THE BUSINESS TRIP If you’ve promised to return to your office laden with gifts for your colleagues, flag a cab and head to Karama. Here you’ll find hundreds of small shops crammed full of oddities – a mosque alarm clock, anyone? How about a Persian rug mouse-mat? – so you’ll be able to pick up cheap and cheerful souvenirs aplenty. Beware, though while in Karama you’ll be pestered every step of the way by fake goods peddlers, who’ll want to take you to ‘secret’ upstairs rooms to show off an array of counterfeit watches, handbags and luggage.

In Ibn Battuta Mall you will also come across Companys, which houses a sweep of brands from Denmark. Its Designer Remix collection by Charlotte Eskildsen is as near to designer gear as you can get at these prices. Also from Copenhagen is CCDK, which does a good line in beautiful fabrics, long, floaty skirts and bohemian dresses alongside trousers and tops. For fantastic jeans at good prices, check out Portugese brand Salsa Jeans and Canadian store Fidel. And if you’re in the hunt for something casual yet cool from the US, check out River Woods in Mercato or Banana Republic in Deira City Centre.

Tailormade clothes If you’re in need of a new whistle but a Saville Row suit seems dauntingly steep, you should really take advantage of Dubai’s cheap and highly skilled tailors. They’re in plentiful supply around the side streets of Satwa and Bur Dubai and take nearly no time at all to knock up a custommade suit or dress. If you’re here for just a short stay – say under a week – simply tell them and they’ll work to your schedule. And in the same way that you might hand your hairdresser an example of a particular style you’ve cut from a magazine, you can do exactly the same at the tailors - copying is what they do best. There are two ways to go about having a garment made. Either you can go direct

If a Saville Row suit seems dauntingly steep, you should really take advantage of Dubai’s cheap and highly skilled tailors. They’re in plentiful supply around the side streets of Bur Dubai to a tailor, choose the fabric from their selection and be fitted for your outfit there and then, or you can visit a textile store in advance and sift through its often large and varied collection of materials. They’ll be able to advise you how much material to buy and your chosen tailor will happily cut from what you provide. If you decide to plump for the simplicity of the former option, we recommend you get your suits from Al Nahda Tailors (04 351 8345), Lobos (04 352 3760), both of whom are in Bur Dubai, or Royal Fashions (04 368 6192) in Souk Madinat Jumeirah. At the higher-end of the market – but still an awful lot less expensive than its namesake - Savile Row in Jumeirah Beach Residence (04 423 3813) will fashion the finest of suits for you. For a custom-made dress head to Dream Girl Tailors (04 352 1841) in Bur Dubai or Satwa, where you’ll also find Deepak’s (04 344 3536) and its floor to ceiling JULY 2009 DXB 25

SHOPPING

The beautifully designed Khan Murjan in Wafi

Clockwise: Dubai’s gold souk, Grand Stores

SHOPPING

Prices of many items at Dubai Outlet Mall are insanely cheap compared to their original cost but sizes, as you’d expect, are strictly limited to what you’ll ﬁnd on the racks. selection of textiles, if you want to select your own material.

Bargains galore Dubai has two scheduled, month-long sale extravaganzas: the enormous Dubai Shopping Festival, which takes place during the city’s winter months and Dubai Summer Surprises, which is staged during the summer. However, at any given time there will be some sort of sale on somewhere in every mall and you’ll almost certainly find a bargain over the course of your stay. This is especially true if you opt to take a thirty minute taxi ride out of town to the Dubai Outlet Mall. Here you’ll find one million square foot devoted to shops selling discounted items, from phones and laptops to designer clothes and accessories. The mall’s Grand Stores Outlet is the place to shop if you want a new mobile for a fraction of its UK cost, while Annex offers jewellery and handbags. Priceless is just that if you’re 26 DXB JULY 2009

on the lookout for designer attire – albeit from seasons past - from the likes of Oscar De La Renta, Yves Saint Laurent and Matthew Williamson. Prices of many items are insanely cheap compared to their original cost but sizes, as you’d expect, are strictly limited to what’s on show. Back in the city, you’ll also find a branch of Priceless (04 221 5444) on Maktoum Street in Deira, where a lot of the stock is marked down as much as 70% from its original price. Offering the same substantial discount on its out of season stock is S*uce Lite (04 344 4391) in the Jumeirah Centre.

Electronics Dubai’s a particularly good place to shop for electrical items as it stocks products and models that you might not find in the UK. And although prices aren’t as low as they once were, you can still pick up the odd bargain. The best place to start is Carrefour hypermarket in Deira City Centre or Mall of the Emirates, as they have a fairly impressive assortment of products at knockdown prices which you can use as a yardstick when visiting other more specialist stores. Sharaf DG is probably the pick of such spots. It’s a truly elephantine electronics shop which sells everything from gaming products to cameras and laptops: you’ll find branches in Deira City Centre, Ibn

THE INSIDE TRACK If you want to get the best prices in Dubai’s souks and jewellery stores you’ll need to be ready to haggle. You might feel a bit shy about contesting a price, especially if it is already clearly labelled, but remember that in this part of the world it’s an expected practice. Start by asking the retailer for his best price and look a little dismayed when told it. Name a price roughly half as large and if the seller refuses, say you’ll think about it and come back. If you’re lucky, they’ll concede before you’re out of the door. But if that doesn’t work propose 70% of the original asking price and make it clear it’s your last offer.

Battuta Mall and Times Square (04 341 8020), with the city’s latest store in Mercato Mall. Of a similar size is Jumbo Electronics, which swamps a corner of Mall of the Emirates, while in the same mall Jackys and Grand Stores Digital are both good bets if you’re on the lookout for a new camera. Make a beeline for Geekay Games in Deira City Centre if you’re in the market for consoles, games or handhelds.

Jewellery In Dubai, watches and jewellery are the number one fashion statement: the rule of thumb is the more extravagant the item, the better. You will instantly recognise many of the big names - De Beers, Asprey, Cartier, Bvlgari, Van Cleef and Arpels - but if you’re looking for something a little different, head to Jumeirah Emirates Towers’ Boulevard and to Azzah Fahmy’s boutique. It sells handmade pieces adorned with Arabic poems while its neighbour, Gilbert Albert, offers unique, intricately carved necklaces and rings. Al Liali Jewellery is equally excellent and you’ll find branches of it in all of the major malls. For something special that can be handmade to order, head to the family-run Samra Jewellery and marvel at its range of sparkling wares. However, if you prefer to browse a number of brands under one roof, then the Damas stores – of which there are many – are a good bet and so too are the shops

in Bin Hendi Avenue, where you can pick up that celebrity favourite, the Jacob & Co watch. Also well worth popping inside are the Rivoli stores, Azal – which sells Theo Fennell and Garrard – Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, which specialises in fabulous watches by Patek Philippe and Harry Winston, Al Futtaim Watches and Jewellery and local favourite Al Fardan Jewellery. Despite its self-imposed reputation as the ‘city of gold’, Dubai is trying to position itself as a city of diamonds and pearls too. Mikura Pearls, in the gold souk, is a brand to look for if you’re in one of the city’s many Prima Gold stores while Pinctada Pearls, housed in the One&Only Royal Mirage and Madinat Jumeirah, showcases an exceptional collection of rare pearls favoured by local royalty. Wherever you choose to shop for your jewellery in Dubai, remember to negotiate over the price. Stores in the gold souk and Gold & Diamond Park (see ‘new souks’) positively expect it, but even big name places won’t take it amiss - for example, it’s rare that you’d pay the marked price in Tiffany & Co. If you see a calculator on the counter, it’s definitely worth asking for their best price.

Accessories Dubaians take their accessories extremely seriously - the latest shoes, handbags and sunglasses are snapped up almost as soon as they hit the stores, whatever the price. As such, the city’s malls are something of a JULY 2009 DXB 27

SHOPPING

The city’s colourful spice souk

Clockwise: Souk Madinat Jumeirah, Arabic footwear and ornaments

SHOPPING

paradise for accessory-seeking shoppers and many of the world’s leading brands have boutiques here: Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Asprey, Jimmy Choo, Gucci, Alfred Dunhill and, within Saks Fifth Avenue, Prada. For the widest selection of sunglasses, from the unassuming to the exotic, visit Magrabi Optical in BurJuman or Mall of the Emirates. Or if you simply wish to check out everything under one roof, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harvey Nichols, Salam or Boutique 1 are the stores to hit.

Traditional souks You may well have heard much about Dubai’s famous gold souk – an area comprising hundreds of small jewellery shops on the edge of the city’s Creek and it’s still the place to go if you want to be struck blind by window displays of dazzling yellow gold. It’s best to visit in the late morning, when the traffic is at its lightest and the area isn’t quite so overrun with fake watch and DVD peddlers, and it’s a good place to engage in a spot of entertaining haggling (see ‘Inside Track’). Just next door is the city’s spice souk, a small but colourful parade of stalls unified by an intoxicating aroma: top buy here is Iranian saffron, at knockdown prices.

New souks Dubai’s drive for tourism has witnessed the birth of the modern day souk: a cleaner, more sophisticated and, above all, air-conditioned take on the souks of 28 DXB JULY 2009

yesteryear. Arguably the most impressive of these ‘super’ souks is Khan Murjan at Wafi, a stained glass-ceilinged, marblefloored bazaar which spans some 50,000 square foot and crams in a whopping 150 stalls, which sell an abundance of traditional arts and crafts. In the shadow of the Burj Dubai in the newly built, erm, Old Town, you’ll find the multi-levelled Souk Al Bahar, where you’ll find an eclectic mix of little shops – selling everything from designer swim shorts to custom-made suits – and a handful of choice cafes. The Souk Madinat Jumeirah is built along similar lines, squeezing in dozens of boutique stores in beautiful faux-ancient alleyways at Madinat Jumeirah. Although you can buy diamonds, pearls and gemstones at the gold souk, we recommend you visit the more sophisticated Emaar Gold and Diamond Park on Sheikh Zayed Road, instead. Cara at the Park is probably the most popular jewellery shop among Dubai’s in-the-know residents and their selection of diamonds stretches from small and affordable to outsized budget-busters. The bulk of jewellery on sale within the Gold & Diamond Park is manufactured onsite, so if you like a stone but not its setting they’ll be happy to change it. Similarly, you can design your own items on the spot or simply ask them to copy pieces cut from magazines.

THE FAMILY HOLIDAY Dubai’s malls aren’t just filled with stores: a fair few of them also boast amusement park-like attractions – perfect for when your kids are all shopped out and brewing up a tantrum. Mall of the Emirates houses the largest of the lot: its Magic Planet arcade offers everything from bumper cars to ten-pin bowling and hundreds of arcade machines. Deira City Centre is home to a slimmed down version. Over at Mercato you’ll find the aptly named Fun City, built along similar lines, and also available at BurJuman, where it shares ample floor space with its twin, Fun World.

Mall & Souk Picker

Ready to hit the stores and give your credit card a proper workout? Make your way through the city’s huge spread of shopping centres with our patented Picker... START Themed

Souk Chic

Straightforward

You’ll be wanting to try out the new Khan Murjan at Wafi, two floors of beautifully-designed old-style souky goodness based around an ancient Babylonian bazaar. Top decor, great shops.

Regular

International Style

High End

Try the Italianate Mercato Mall in Jumeirah, or Ibn Battua Mall, themed around the voyages of a 14th century explorer, with Persian tiling, Chinese junks and a huge Indian elephant.

BurJuman has the world’s highest concentration of luxury brands under one roof: get stuck into Saks, Cartier, Laxroix, Prada, Versace... If they don’t have a designer item here, it’s probably not in Dubai.

Labyrinthine

Sheikh Zayed Rd.

You’re certain to get lost in the windy alleyways of the brilliant, boutique-filled Souk Madinat Jumeirah. Don’t worry - it just means you’ll stumble across more great jewellery, antique and art stores.

The Dubai Mall is the biggest shopping centre in the world. Hundreds of stores including the soon-to-open Galeries Lafayette line the walkways: don’t miss the beautiful aquarium, either.

High Choice

Jumeirah-side

For sheer range of stores, Mall of the Emirates can’t be beaten. It’s a colossal mall, with long boulevards crammed with fashion stores plus - for that extra touch of class - the region’s only Harvey Nichols. JULY 2009 DXB 31

ACTIVITIES & WELLBEING Get out on the water

THE FAMILY HOLIDAY If your kids are getting twitchy, whisk them off for a morning at Children’s City in Creekside Park (04 334 0808). This large, wellplanned space is filled with multiple edutainment zones targeting children from knee-high to tween. There are plenty of interactive exhibits and entry’s Dhs15 (£2) for adults and Dhs10 (£1.50) for kids. While down that way you might spend a few hours at Wonderland (04 324 1222), a small water / funpark with enough slides and rides to give your kids a treat. The waterpark is open from 10am-7pm and the funpark from 4-10pm daily. Tickets cost Dhs85 (£13) for adults and Dhs75 (£11.50) for kids.

When it comes to having fun out on the water, Dubai’s got the lot. And if you happen to be staying at one of the city’s beachfront hotels it’ll be easy for you to access the huge number of aquatic activities they offer. If you’re staying elsewhere you can still use a hotel’s watersports facilities but you’ll have to pay a beach entry fee - see ‘Hit the beach’ - before you can do so. If you don’t have the sea on tap at your hotel you can call Bristol Water Sport Academy (04 366 3538), who will take you out to water-ski, wakeboard, surf or knee-board (all cost Dhs150 - £25 – for 15 minutes) or cling for dear life to a banana boat (Dhs100 (£17) for 15 minutes per person). Blue Banana (04 369 7378) also offers a wealth of waterbased activities – choose any three from parasailing, speed-boating, kayaking, body-boarding and a donut or banana boat ride for Dhs375 (£62.50) per person.

Head into the desert By far the most popular way to see the sands is by taking the six-hour desert safari. You’re picked up and driven to the desert where you spend an afternoon dunebashing in a 4x4. You’re then delivered to a Bedouin-style camp where you’ll indulge in henna handpainting, camel rides and a fairly decent barbecue, while being entertained by a hip-shaking belly-dancer. Oasis Palm (04 262 9993) offer the desert safari at

the rate of Dhs180 (£30) per person, while Lama Tours (04 334 4330) charge Dhs185 (£31). If you like the idea of the desert safari but aren’t the best of back-seat passengers, try Desert Rangers (04 340 2408) who, if you’re aged 15 or over, will let you take to the wheel of a fabulously fast dunebuggy for Dhs525 (£87.50) per person.

Take an old-fashioned cruise Traditional ‘abra’ water taxis cross the Creek every half hour or so throughout the day and are commonly used by commuters crossing over from Deira to Bur Dubai. Anyone can hop onboard for the princely sum of Dhs1 (15p). Just ask your taxi driver to drop you at an abra station along the Creek, down by the textile souk on Bur Dubai side or opposite the Spice Souk on Deira side. For a more tourist-oriented sail, you should head down to Marina Walk in Dubai Marina where, just to the right of the large central fountain, you’ll find a booking desk belonging to Bristol Middle East. It operates a ‘dhow’, an old fashioned sailing ship, offering cruises at regular intervals throughout the day for Dhs60 (£10) per adult and Dhs30 (£5) per child. If you’re looking for a night-time sail in Dubai, you should try Oasis Palm (04 262 9993) who’ll also throw in dinner and Arabic entertainment for Dhs140 (£23.50) per person. Should you be JULY 2009 DXB 33

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With sun, sea and a whole lot of sand, Dubai’s great outdoors offers abundant opportunities for holiday fun - just remember to slap on a high-factor suncream before stepping out.

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Al Boom’s luxury boat we’re talking fully air-conditioned with a state-of-the-art sound system comes complete with ﬁshing equipment, drinks and snacks looking for something a little different, you could try the city’s one and only five star cruising dhow, the Al Mansour, which casts off from the Radisson SAS Hotel Dubai Deira Creek (04 205 7333) at 8pm nightly and offers a fine spread of Arabic food along with your trip for Dhs135 (£22.50) per person.

Swim with the fishes Although plans are afoot to ‘create’ more dive spots in Dubai – by submerging planes and boats to form artificial reefs which will eventually play home to new growths of coral – there are relatively few sites at the moment. The Pavillion Dive Centre (04 406 8828) at Jumeirah Beach Hotel is open to non-hotel guests and will whisk you to each of these sites – all of them wrecks - on its custom-built dive boats, which leave the marina at 9am daily. The centre also boasts a private artificial reef. You’ll have to head east for a richer crop of dive spots and although this means a 90-120 minute drive out of 34 DXB JULY 2009

Dubai, it also means you’ll get to see some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable – the Musandam Peninsula – and an abundance of exotic and exciting sealife, including sharks, dolphins and large rays. The Pavillion Dive Centre or Al Boom Diving (04 342 2993) are your best bets for getting there as both operate transfers from Dubai. Call for prices as many different options are available.

Catch the fishes Ready to get to grips with the local sealife? Al Boom Marine (04 289 4858) offers fishing trips for up to 20 people. Its luxury boat – we’re talking fully airconditioned with a state-of-the-art sound system – comes complete with fishing equipment, drinks and snacks and can be rented out for a half day (4 hours) or full day (8 hours) of fishing. Prices start at Dhs5,200 (£867) per half day. Meanwhile, over at Summertime Marine Sports (04 329 5211), you can choose four-hour slots of either bottom fishing (Dhs2,400 - £400), trolling (Dhs2,800 - £467) or sport fishing (Dhs5,000 - £833.50).

Gawp at dolphins Dubai’s strikingly green parks are - in a particularly Dubai-like move - in the process of being transformed from chilled out grassy hangouts into multi-million dirham entertainment hubs. The first

THE INSIDE TRACK Dubai is a great place to treat yourself to a manicure/ pedicure. Prices – even at salons housed in five star hotels – are half of what you’ll pay in the UK. The N. Bar (04 330 1001, Jumeirah Emirates Towers branch) is a particular favourite with the city’s expat women and, as such, you’re advised to call and book in advance, especially if you’re after a treatment on a Friday morning when Dubai’s ladies like to indulge in ‘me’ time.

to take off the wraps on its new look is the lovely Creekside Park, which is now home to the Dhs33 million (£5.5 million) Dubai Dolphinarium (04 336 9773). The traditional ‘dolphins doing tricks’ show takes place three times a day – 10am, 6am and 10pm – from MondaySaturday. Standard tickets are priced between Dhs30 (£5) and Dhs120 (£20).

Hit the high seas Dubai is home to several yacht-lined marinas so you won’t be short of options should you crave a luxury cruise. Bristol Middle East (04 366 3538) rents out a selection of super sleek yachts which can accommodate from six to sixteen people. Prices start at Dhs1,300 (£217) per hour. Likewise, British-run ME Charter (04 329 8467) has a number of good value vessels on offer – from speedboats upwards – which begin at Dhs650 (£108.40) per hour.

Get creative Feel like attacking a canvas in the name of artistic expression? Head for The Jam Jar (04 341 7303), a small, friendly studio behind the Dubai Garden Center on St 17a (get taxi directions when you call to book) where for Dhs170 (£28.50) (Dhs85 - £14 - for under-12s) you can pick either one massive canvas or a series of four small ones and spend up to three hours creating a masterpiece. Paint, brushes

and overalls are included in the price, and you can buy drinks and snacks to keep you going as you perfect your brushwork.

Chill out on the piste Try a pleasant morning’s skiing at Ski Dubai at Mall of the Emirates (04 409 4000), an indoor mountain covered with real snow and equipped with five separate slopes including a black run. Kids can mess about in the giant snow park, where snowmen and tobogganing are the order of the day. Entrance to the ski slopes, including all equipment apart from gloves and hat (you can buy these at their snow store), costs Dhs180 (£30) for two hours for adults and Dhs150 (£25) for children. If you just want to take your kids for fun at the snow park, though, it costs Dhs80 (£13.50) per adult and Dhs75 (£12.50) per child. Another frosty option is the large ice-scating rink at Al Nasr Leisureland (04 337 1234 – call in advance to check session times), where for only Dhs15 (£2.50) you can hire skates and get in unlimited twirling, pirouetting and falling over. A smaller rink is available at the Galleria at the Hyatt Regency (04 209 6550), where a skating session will cost you Dhs25 (£4) with skate hire.

See the city from above The best way to see Dubai is from the air – it gives you a real insight into the extraordinary ambition and scope of the city, and leaves you with a battery of JULY 2009 DXB 35

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Ski Dubai

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If you want to see the city in style, Dubai Exotic Limo hires out stretch Hummers which seat up to 20. Alternatively, you can make like a Sheikh and rent out a Rolls Royce Phantom stunning photos to take home. Probably the best option during the summer months – you can take to the sky in a balloon at all other times - is to hop aboard a seaplane. Seawings (04 883 2999) offers would-be high-flyers a whole host of themed sky tours, which start at Dhs895 (£149) per adult and Dhs760 (£127) per child for a 30minute flight. But if you don’t like the thought of landing on the surf, why not take a helicopter ride? Aerogulf Services Company (04 220 0331) - which leaves from the Oilfield Supply Centre at Dubai Airport - offers a couple of different tours: there’s the 30-minuter, which costs Dhs3,200 (£533.50) or the 45-minuter for Dhs4,800 (£800). You can get up to four passengers in the choppers, which skirt the coastline, take in views of the Burj Al Arab and skim over the Palm Islands at Jumeirah and Jebel Ali. Summertime Charter (04 329 5211) operates a similar service which leaves from the helipad 36 DXB JULY 2009

at Festival City. Its 30-minute trip costs Dhs1,500 (£250) per person – to a maximum of six - or Dhs6,000 (£1000) if you want a private ride.

Take a tour There are myriad ways to take a driving tour of Dubai. To get the full flavour of the city, try the Big Bus (04 324 4187) experience. It offers two tours - red and blue – which split the city into old (forts and souks) and new (gleaming super structures) Dubai. You’ll be ferried round the city in a traditional London double decker and can hop on and off at twenty stops, with buses available from each every 30 minutes. The trip includes a dhow cruise and is priced at Dhs175 (£29) for adults and Dhs100 (£17) for five to 15 year olds (under-fives are free). The main departure points are at Wafi and Deira City Centre. If you want to see the city in a bit more style, Dubai Exotic Limo (04 286 8635) hires out stretch Hummers, which seat up to 20, from Dhs600 (£100) per hour. Alternatively, you can make like a Sheikh and rent out a Rolls Royce Phantom from Summertime Charter (04 329 5211) – at Dhs1,600 (£267) per hour.

Visit the old quarter The oldest neighbourhood in Dubai is Bastakiah, the grid of tiny pedestrian streets which stretch between Al Fahidi Roundabout and the Creek. The area

THE BUSINESS TRIP If back-to-back meetings have left you short of sightseeing time, why not take in two cities in one go? For Dhs22,020 (£2,936), Summertime Charter (04 329 5211) will take you on a private helicopter tour of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, meaning you can drink in a bird’s eye view of such amazing sights as Palm Jumeirah, the Burj Al Arab, Madinat Jumeirah and Abu Dhabi’s Emirates Palace, in whose grounds you’ll land.

has been beautifully renovated at great expense, and plays host to a handful of small galleries and cafés where a boho arty crowd hang out. The buildings are 70 years old (ancient by Dubai standards) and built in traditional Emirati fashion, with wind towers (old-fashioned air conditioning) and beautiful courtyards. Wander round popping in and out of the buildings and soaking up the charm: make sure to stop by the Basta Art Cafe (04 353 5071) and the Majlis Art Gallery (04 353 6233). The real highlight, though, is a trip to XVA (04 353 5383, closed on Fridays), a stunning café / gallery / guesthouse. Check out the current artistic exhibition and stop off for an excellent light meal in the courtyard. Just next door you’ll find another fine gallery and warm welcome at XVB.

Get on track As you’ll no doubt notice from the abundance of Ferraris on the roads, Dubai is obsessed with fast cars. You can benefit from this automotive mania by making a beeline for Dubai Autodrome (04 367 8745) – an FIA sanctioned driving circuit, adjacent to which is a shorter track built for karting. Here you can get behind the wheel of all manner of super-speedy vehicles, including F1-style single seaters (Dhs875 (£146) for 20 minutes) - all you need is a valid driving license and to be over 18. Karting wise, you can turn up and drive in karts built

to accommodate anyone from the age of 7 upwards. These cost Dhs100 (£16) per 15 minutes, and although you don’t have to book in advance it’s worth calling ahead to ensure the track is available. Even if you can’t drive you can still experience the thrill of high-speed racing if you opt to be whisked around three laps of the track by an expert in his turbocharged car for Dhs175 (£29).

Get wet and wild The much-loved Wild Wadi water park (04 348 4444), perched between the Burj Al Arab and the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, is a temple to all things aquatic. Offering a vast range of flooms (ranging from gentle to vertical), pools, fake waves, ‘flash floods’ and lazy rubber ring-based rides, this well-designed, well-monitored mini-resort rivals the best aqua parks in Europe and America. Rides are interconnected, so you can segue from one to another with ease: adrenaline junkies should make sure to try the ‘Jumeirah Sceirah’, a scream-yourhead-off ride that zips you along at speeds of up to 80km/h. Prices are based on height – if you’re over 1.1 metres it’ll cost Dhs195 (£32.50) to get in, and if you’re shorter than that it’s Dhs165 (£27.50). Atlantis, The Palm (04 426 1000), is home to Dubai’s latest wondrous water park the gargantuan Aquaventure - where for Dhs220 (£37) (or Dhs190 - £32 - if you’re less than 1.2 metres tall), you can enjoy a river ride, tidal waves, pools and seven JULY 2009 DXB 37

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Clockwise: Wild Wadi, Dubai Autodrome

The glorious Aquaventure

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Atlantis, The Palm is home to Dubai’s latest wondrous water park - the gargantuan Aquaventure where you can enjoy a river ride, tidal waves, pools and seven slides

Golf & Yacht Club (04 295 6000) is one of the city’s iconic buildings. 18 holes here costs Dhs595 (£99) Sun-Wed and Dhs695 (£116) Thu-Sat. And if you just feel like a laugh you can go pitch and putt at the Hyatt Golf Park (04 209 6802) at the Hyatt Regency, where a round costs Dhs45 (£7.50) and you can play until 8pm.

slides - including the near vertical ‘Leap of Faith’, a see-through tunnel which propels riders through a shark-filled lagoon.

Hit the beach

Play 18 holes Dubai has a spread of exceptional golf courses, set in perfectly-primped and highly attractive grounds. They follow the same clothing etiquette as in Europe make sure to wear a collar and leave the jeans at home – but are cheaper to play in comparison. For Dhs795 (£132.50) a round you can be one of the first to play the brand spanking new The Els Club (04 425 1010). Alternatively, you could head to the home of the world-famous Dubai Desert Classic, Emirates Golf Club (04 380 2222), where a round on the flagship majlis course costs Dhs825 (£137.50). Their other 18-holer, the Nick Faldodesigned Wadi by Faldo, is yours to play for Dhs695 (£116): there’s also a testing par-3 course at Dhs100 (£17). Across town, the clubhouse at Dubai Creek 38 DXB JULY 2009

If you’re booked into one of Dubai’s beach-less hotels but still fancy a swim in the sea, there are a number of options open to you. For openers, some of the best hotels in town will let outside guests use their beach - for a fee - but be sure to call in advance to check on availability. A favourite spot, especially if you have young kids in tow, is Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 348 0000), whose beach and associated facilities you can use from Sun-Thurs for Dhs400 (£67) per adult and Dhs200 (£33.50) per child- both prices include a Dhs100 (£17) food voucher. The Westin Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina (04 341 4999) shares a good-sized strip of beach with its sister hotel Le Meriden Mina Seyahi (04 399 3333) and you can use the pools and facilities at both from Sunday-Thursday – while enjoying what’s arguably the best beach service in town – for Dhs150 (£25) per adult and Dhs60 (£10) per child. A 15 minute taxi ride from the throng of beach

hotels is the idyllic – think peacockstrewn lush, green gardens – Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa (04 883 6000) whose beach you can use for Dhs150 (£25) Sunday-Wednesday and Dhs180 (£30) Thursday-Saturday. Of course, if you’d rather save your money and think you can handle the heat without the aid of cold towel-toting waiters and a temperature-controlled pool, then there are a couple of open beaches that only residents are aware of. One of these is easy to locate – it lies adjacent to the Hilton Jumeirah Hotel, so just ask your taxi driver to drop you there – but the other is harder to find and, as such, is always quiet. To get there, ask your taxi driver to take you along Jumeirah Beach Road and keep your eyes peeled for Kentucky Fried Chicken – about 4km south of Jumeirah Beach Hotel. From directly behind the Colonel’s lair, walk one hundred yards or so straight and you’ll see the sea and a near-empty beach. There are a handful of other wellmaintained public beaches set aside manicured lawns and gardens and the entrance fee to each is minimal - Dhs5 (85p) per person. The pick of these is Al Mamzar Beach Park (04 296 6201), which lies on the border of Dubai and Sharjah. It’s open from 8am-11pm every day, although be warned that Wednesdays are reserved for families only. Meanwhile, the Jumeirah Beach

Park (04 349 2555) has a good stretch of clean beach, plus a park to retreat to when it’s too hot. Bear in mind, though, that you should dress more modestly if on public or open beaches and bring a cover-up to ward off funny looks.

Go gallery hopping Outside of Bastakia, there’s only one other pocket of arty Dubai, the neighbourhood of Al Quoz. While primarily an industrial quarter, it’s also home to an increasing number of galleries, whose owners were drawn in by the cheap rents and huge spaces on offer. It can be a confusing place to navigate – it makes sense to phone and get directions in advance – but can be very rewarding, as there are some seriously talented emerging artists from the region on display. Last month saw the opening of the B_ASEMENT Gallery (Street 8, Al Quoz 3, 04 341 4409), a space created by a group of entrepreneurs, collectors and architects and designed to showcase the work of young, up and coming Iranian artists, most of whom have not exhibited internationally before. Also on Street 8 you’ll find the Ayyam Gallery (050 115 5358), which specialises in exquisite Syrian art – they rotate works round from their main gallery in Damascus and do a particularly good line in calligraphy. Down on street 6 you’ll find three galleries near one another. There’s JULY 2009 DXB 39

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Madinat Jumeirah’s beach Right: Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club

The Laserdrome

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At the Laserdrome you don special electronic breastplates, pick up your laser gun and charge around the castle-themed arena trying to shoot your opponents the B21 Progressive Gallery (04 340 3965) which was one of the first to open in the area and shows a big range of international artists. Then there’s The Courtyard, hemmed in on both sides by a gallery of cool stores, most of which sell kooky home interiors stuff. And finally there’s the Third Line Gallery (04 341 1367), which has a huge back catalogue of artists and stages imaginative new exhibitions each month. Works are on sale at all of the Al Quoz art spots, but if the gallery pricetags are too rich for your blood you might want to swing by Gallery One at the Souk Madinat in Madinat Jumeirah (04 368 6055) instead. This is the region’s first photographic gallery and store, where they sell brilliant framed photos of Dubai, plus cool limited edition black and white signed prints, Arabic pop art and beautiful 19th century images of the Middle East. The gallery also displays its extensive back catalogue of hand-signed celebrity pictures and products – everything from replica football shirts to Beatles discs. 40 DXB JULY 2009

Shoot to thrill If you’re in the mood for a shoot ’em up session, you should call up the Laserdrome at Dubai Autodrome (04 367 8744). Here you can don special electronic breastplates, pick up your laser gun and charge around the huge, mediaeval castle-themed arena trying to shoot your opponents and capture their flag. Pumping music plays throughout, while dry ice swirls round you and your adrenaline levels go through the roof. Sessions cost Dhs10 (1.70) for registration and then Dhs80 (£13.30) per person per game. Bags of fun.

See the other emirates Sharjah is the neighbouring city to Dubai. It’s only a short drive away (although the traffic is intense during rush hours), but has a different feel – much more traditional and with a slower pace of life. It’s a dry (no booze) city, and doesn’t go in for the same ultra-luxury razzamatazz as Dubai, preferring to make a name for itself with the Sharjah Art Biennale and other cultural activities. If you feel like spending a few hours getting to know the traditions of the Emirates, we suggest paying a visit to Al Qasba (06 556 0777), a cultural centre on the Sharjah waterfront which also plays home to the Eye of the Emirates, the biggest ferris wheel in the Middle East, which gives views of up to 30 miles over Sharjah and Dubai.

An hour’s drive from Dubai lies Abu Dhabi, the capital of the UAE and its largest emirate to boot. The perfectly straight, sand-flanked Sheikh Zayed Road – which makes for a drive short on sights, save for the odd camel - links the two cities and a day spent in the capital gives you more than enough time to see its sights. Like Dubai, Abu Dhabi is a city on the rise – a sea of cranes are building scores of developments - and it’ll soon be home to a Formula One circuit (in 2009) and outposts of the Guggenheim and The Louvre (both in 2010). Although the emirate is spread across a vast amount of desert, its hub is the main city, also called Abu Dhabi. Like Manhattan in New York, it’s based on an island, its roads are mapped out on a grid network and the majority of its buildings are high-rise. Abu Dhabi’s answer to Dubai’s iconic Burj Al Arab is the magnificent Emirates Palace (02 690 9000) – a gold-laden super-luxurious hotel on the seafront. It’s well worth stopping by to see inside the world’s most expensively-built hotel – estimated to have cost over $3 billion to construct – and to discover what a (£9) cup of tea tastes like. Over on the east coast of the UAE lies the quiet but beautiful emirate of Fujairah, a popular weekend destination for city-fatigued Dubaians. Fujairah’s big draw is the chance to do some top snorkelling, swimming and diving in the warm Gulf of Oman, which is filled with

Fujairah is a popular weekend destination for city-fatigued Dubaians. Its big draw is the chance to do some top snorkelling and diving in the warm Gulf of Oman tropical fish. The hot spots are in Dibba, Khor Fakkan and around Snoopy Rock (so named because its outline resembles Snoopy snoozing atop his kennel). To get to Fujairah you’ll need to hire a car (see ‘On Arrival’ section for details), but the journey’s not difficult (get the car hire agents to give you directions and a map), and only lasts an hour and a half. Your best bet for a weekend away is the JAL Fujairah Resort & Spa (09 244 9700), which specialises in diving - they have their own diving centre, alongside some grand restaurants and a spa. If you don’t dive yet you can take a PADI course or go snorkelling. The JAL Fujairah also has a nice long beach and a kids’ club – the Kodomo – where you can drop your children off at no extra cost while you chill out. Access to the beach costs Dhs100 (£17) Sat-Wed and Dhs150 (£25) ThuFri. There’s another fine beach at the Fujairah Rotana Resort & Spa (09 244 9888) - Dhs95 (£15) Sun-Wed and Dhs120 (£18.50) Fri-Sat. JULY 2009 DXB 41

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JAL Fujairah Resort & Spa

GOING OUT See and be seen

NEED TO KNOW Dubai’s weekend is FridaySaturday, meaning that Thursday and Friday nights are busiest at all venues across town. The vast majority of bars stay open until the early hours of the morning.

Not surprisingly for a place heralded as the ‘City of Gold’, Dubai has a fair sprinkling of ultra-glam bars where the beautiful people come to hang out. The tip of Raffles Hotel (04 324 8888) houses the magnificently OTT New Asia Bar, where gasp-inducing-expensive champagne is the staple tipple. Over at Grosvenor House Hotel (04 399 8888) you’ll find the equally opulent Buddha Bar - check out the vast golden Buddha in the corner. Here you can indulge in powerful cocktails and Asian fusion snacks to the backing of the bar’s world-famous soundtrack. At the other end of town, Sho Cho’s at Dubai Marine Beach Resort and Spa (04 346 1111) is an ever popular posing joint. It’s famed for its mighty-fine over-the-sea terrace but the bar’s all-white interior is a hip hangout, too.

Other venues offering nightly shindigs include faux-Grecian hotspot Alpha (04 702 2640), in Le Meridien Dubai’s Culinary Village, where you’ll find the cream of the city’s DJ fraternity manning the decks. Then there’s Zinc at Crowne Plaza (04 331 1111), which throws regular drink deals into the mix and Jumeirah Beach Hotel’s lounge-cum-club The Apartment (04 406 8000), a real weekend favourite. Finally, for some serious opulence, head over to the 400 Club at the Fairmont (04 332 4900), which is decked out in ‘Louis XVI’ style, with crystal chandeliers and gilt-trimmed velvet sofas. The DJs know their stuff, and the crowd’s always big (and has apparently included such luminaries as Hugh Grant and Sean Paul on occasion).

Dance like no-one’s watching Hit a club Dubai’s clubbing scene may still be in its infancy but there’s more than enough in the way of big-name DJs and venues crammed with party-hard people to keep you up until the wee smalls. On any given night of the week Chi at the Lodge (04 337 9470) draws a pretty decent crowd and it’s truly rammed to the rafters on a Thursday and Friday. It’s a sprawling club which has a great outdoors area for al fresco shimmying and a choice of rooms inside, each pumping out a different genre of music.

For all the upmarket bars cropping up around town - and there are a multitude of them - Dubai still has one major cheesy streak running through its centre. If you want to avoid the sort of uptight venues where people go to pose rather than let loose, you should consider an evening at the cheerfully unpretentious Rock Bottom Cafe at the Regent Palace Hotel in Bur Dubai (04 396 3888). In this old school expat hangout the drink of choice is the Bullfrog, a hideously strong - and unsettingly green - concoction of every white spirit, Red Bull and JULY 2009 DXB 43

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Whatever your tastes, you’ll find plenty of nightlife to please you in Dubai. The city’s hotels are crammed with high class wine bars and hearty fauxtraditional pubs, while cool new DJ nights are springing up every week...

Clockwise: The 400 Club, Blue Bar, Boudoir

GOING OUT

something exceptionally powerful. Don’t expect subtlety, do expect a good laugh. And try not to arrive still sober. Along the same lines are Long’s Bar at Towers Rotana (04 312 2202), which has a small, perma-packed dancefloor, and the much roomier Scarlett’s at Jumeirah Emirates Towers (04 330 0000).

Bottle out Be warned that wine is irritatingly expensive in Dubai – you won’t get a bottle of house plonk in a restaurant or bar for much less than Dhs150 (£25), and a decent drop will set you back an awful lot more. That said, there are some beautiful places to enjoy your overpriced rouge. If you like candle-light and comfy chairs, Tuscan reds and lazy lounge music, Vintage at Wafi (04 324 4100) is the place for you. Order a selection of cheese from a list of 26 gourmet options running from mimolette to munster and Dorset drum to taleggio and you’ll get fresh bread and gourmet relishes to go with it. They do a top, eminently shareable cheese fondue, too. Over at the Fairmont Hotel, the cosmopolitan, high design Cin Cin (04 311 8316) offers a smart, upmarket bar much favoured by off-duty bankers and businessfolk. Meanwhile, at Souk Madinat Jumeirah and at the Emirates Towers hotel you’ll find branches of The Agency (04 366 6320), a polished drinking establishment that’s a classic hangout for more mature 44 DXB JULY 2009

expats at play. Finally, over at the Westin hotel (04 399 4141) there’s a fine drinking spot called Oeno, a two-floored titan of a bar with plenty of fine fromage to supplement your boozing.

Listen to live music Dubai has relatively few decent live music joints. What scene does exist is sadly dominated by bands regurgitating U2 and the Eagles’ greatest hits, with greater or lesser degrees of success. The pick of these can be found working the sweaty crowd at Rock Bottom Café (04 396 3888) every night bar Saturday. Jambase at the Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 6914) is the smoothest live option, featuring nightly performances by a slick soul-funk-blues band. The atmosphere is intimate, the lighting low and the drinks pricey. The small dancefloor is generally crowded by the end of the night. Jazz aficionados are catered for with a nightly fix of jazz piano at Grand Hyatt’s Cooz Bar (04 317 1234) and a weekend jam at Blue Bar in the Novotel (04 332 0000), which also offers a decent spread of imported Belgian beers. If you’re in the mood for something a little kookier, make for The Music Room at Majestic Hotel (04 359 8888) where the manic Filipino collective Rockspiders throw heart, soul and bizarro dancing into every performance. And for something a lot more laid-back,

Barasti at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi (04 399 3333) has live music by its pool from Tuesday through to Saturday. THE FAMILY HOLIDAY If you’re looking for a night out with your kids, head to the Al Nasr Leisureland complex (04 337 1234) where you can bowl for Dhs70 (£9) per lane per hour with free shoe hire, although you have to pay a one-off Dhs10 (£1.50) fee to enter the complex. Once you’re done bowling, you can move on to the ice-skating rink. Alternatively, for a night out at the movies, you’re bound to find a kid-pleasing flick at the 21-screen Grand Megaplex at Ibn Battuta Mall (04 366 9898), where there’s also an IMAX cinema showing films on a wraparound screen.

Drink in the views Koubba at the Al Qasr Hotel in Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 6743) has by far and away the best terrace in the city. The views take in the canals, the palmdecked, tower-studded sweep of the resort and the luminescent Burj Al Arab in the background. And if it’s the Burj in particular that you want to see up close and personal, head to Mina A’Salam’s wonderful Bahri Bar (04 366 6730) – the terrace of which provides what’s arguably the best ‘me by the Burj’ photo opportunity in town. You’ll also love the outdoor bar/club 360, set out in the water at Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 348 0000). If you want to take in a panorama of Dubai Creek, the entirely al fresco QDs (04 295 6000) at Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club can’t be beaten, while for vistas of the city’s ever-expanding skyline, check out the excellent Belgian Beer Café at Crowne Plaza Festival City (04 701 2222) or the Uptown Bar (04 348 0000) high up in Jumeirah Beach Hotel. The appropriately named Vu’s Bar on the 51st floor of the Jumeirah Emirates Towers (04 330 0000) is a classic location for some pre-or post-dinner drinks. Men will need to don a collar and get there early on to snag a table by the sloping window - the only vantage point for jaw-

When you’re in the mood for a few frames of pool, Billy Blues is a good low-key option. There’s only the one table but it’s rarely occupied, and the bar oﬀers good-value bottles of beer dropping sights which extend halfway across the city, from Deira to the Burj Al Arab. For a beachside beer, Barasti at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi (04 399 3333) is, for good reason, a perennial favourite with locals and visitors alike, making for standing room only and a real let-yourhair-down style atmosphere. Be warned, however, that Barasti has a weekend only (Thursday and Friday nights) door policy: only permitting entry to males if they are accompanied by women. And how about seeing snow? Yes, snow. Over at Après (04 341 2575) in Mall of the Emirates, you can watch skiers tumble down the slopes through a glass wall while enjoying a nice cocktail.

Knock back cocktails Dubai offers some extraordinarily outlandish drinks: the Burj Al Arab recently launched the world’s most expensive cocktail, a slug of 55-year-old single malt, plus designer bitters and imported water JULY 2009 DXB 45

GOING OUT

The Agency wine bar, Emirates Towers

The Apartment

GOING OUT

ice cubs, in a solid gold glass – yours for a mere £4,217. Typically for Dubai, several of these have already been bought. For a wealth of imaginative – but significantly cheaper - Asian-influenced cocktails (try the fantastic Raspberry Sling with Absolut and guava juice, and the Beijing Sour with apple schnapps) and nibbles (we recommend the Korean BBQ beef quesadilla and the Peking duck spring rolls), we suggest hitting the small but perfectly-formed Ginseng at Wafi (04 324 4777). Finally, over at Trader Vic’s at the Crowne Plaza (04 331 1111) and the Souk Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 5649), they take a Polynesian approach to cocktails, offering shareable drinks in vatsized portions, rum-based concoctions that come with their own miniature parrot and sharing platters of deep-fried nibbles to line your stomach.

Play some pool When you’re in the mood for a few frames of pool, Billy Blues at Rydges Plaza Hotel (04 398 2272) is a good low-key option. There’s only the one table in this Americanabedecked joint, but it’s rarely occupied, and the bar offers good-value bottles of beer. If the table’s full, pop downstairs to Aussie Legends pub (04 398 2222) where there are two more on offer. Blues & Cues at the Ramada Continental in Deira (04 266 2666) is an unpretentious pool spot with a couple of 46 DXB JULY 2009

For a decent pint of Guinness set your sights on The Irish Village, a madly popular expat hangout with regular live music, waiter service and a huge outdoor terrace tables. After playing you can retire to the adjacent bar to enjoy the house band.

Pop to the pub If you’re in search of a decent pint of Guinness and a vague attempt at Oirish ambience, set your sights on The Irish Village in Garhoud (04 282 4750), a madly popular expat hangout with regular live music, waiter service and a huge outdoor terrace. Dubliners at Le Meridien Dubai (04 282 4040) offers much the same experience, in a bar that attracts a slightly older, less raucous clientele. Meanwhile, for full no-holdsbarred Emerald Isle-style knees-uppery, get down to Waxy O’Conner’s in the Ascot Hotel (04 352 0900). And for a brilliantly big spread of Belgian beer, make for the terrace of the Belgian Beer Cafe at the Intercontinental Dubai Festival City (04 701 1111). Meanwhile, if the thought of a warm bitter is making you go all misty eyed about Blighty, you’d best make a beeline for the seriously snug Dhow & Anchor

THE BUSINESS TRIP If your clients are partial to a balloon of brandy and a high class smoke, make for the deep leather armchairs and heavily-stocked humidor at The Cigar Bar at the Fairmont Hotel (04 332 5555). You can also get a decent Cuban at the Balcony Bar at the ShangriLa (04 405 2714), a petite but decadent retreat on the first floor. For the full-on plutocrat experience, there’s Diademas at the Monarch Dubai (04 501 8888), or the glorious Library Bar at the Ritz-Carlton (04 399 4000), with its aged Louis XIII and pungent Davidoffs.

Catch a match The English Premiership season is the cue for lobster-red expats to migrate en masse to the city’s bars of a Saturday afternoon. Showtime is the region’s equivalent of Sky Sports and it broadcasts every single game live – take that, Andy Gray - so it’s best to call ahead to your bar of choice to find out which match they’re showing when kick-off times clash – not surprisingly, it’s usually the games involving one of the ‘Big Four’. Fans of particular teams have adopted certain bars as home – Liverpool’s can be found in the Underground at the Habtoor Grand Hotel 04 399 5000), Arsenal’s at Goodfellas in Bur Dubai’s Regal Plaza Hotel (04 355 6633) and Man United’s at Double Decker in the Al Murooj Rotana (04 321 1111). But if you’re simply a fan of the beautiful game, several bars boast multiple screens, so you can see up to three or four matches at once. Waxy

O’Conner’s in the Ascot Hotel (04 352 0900) is one such venue. Bag a TV-side sofa here on a Saturday and for Dhs70 (£12) you can help yourself to five pints, a full English breakfast and a roast dinner. Other good bets are The Locker Room at the Golden Tulip, Al Barsha (04 341 7750) and South African sports bar Nezesaussi (04 428 5888) in the Old Town’s Al Manzil Hotel. And if you want something completely different – and a lot more upmarket – head to the lounge of One&Only Royal Mirage’s opulent Rooftop Bar (04 399 9999). Just remember to add three hours to the UK kick-off times.

Sing your heart out When nothing but a bawled-out version of ‘Living on a Prayer’ will do, head for Harry Ghatto’s at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers (04 330 0000). This intimate space is home to hilarious backing videos and a welcoming atmosphere: what’s more it’s open until 3am, so you’ve plenty of time for some resolve-stiffening drinks before taking to the mic.

Test your brains The big night for pub quizzes is Monday, when Dubaians set out en masse to plumb their intellects in pursuit of pub glory and prizes. One of the best events is at the unpretentious Boston Bar in the Jumeirah Rotana Hotel (04 345 5888), where things kick off at 8.30pm, and JULY 2009 DXB 47

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at Jumeirah Beach Hotel (04 348 0000). This rammed-to-the-rafters Englishstyle boozer also has a great terrace from which you can breathe in the smell of the sea. Another English-themed favourite can be found in the Al Murooj Rotana, where the twin-floored Double Decker (04 321 1111) – complete with red phone box – packs the crowds in every night.

GOING OUT

teams can win up to Dhs700 (£117) in cash or free dinners at the hotel’s fleet of restaurants. Over at Aussie Legends at the Rydges Plaza Hotel (04 398 2222) from 8pm there’s a monster quiz, the winners of which get Dhs500 (£83) worth of food and drink vouchers. Topping both of them, though, is the appropriately named ‘Jackpot’ quiz at Al Murooj Rotana’s Brit-themed boozer Double Decker (04 321 1111). The cashonly prize on offer each Monday night accumulates by Dhs1,000 (£167) each week. The quest for cash gets underway at 8pm.

Go to the movies You can go to the movies at City Centre (04 294 9000), Mercato Mall (04 349 8765) and Ibn Battuta Mall (04 366 9898). But only at Cinestar at the Mall of the Emirates (04 341 4222) can you get a ‘Gold Class’ ticket. It costs Dhs100 (£17) as opposed to the usual Dhs30 (£5), but it means you can watch the flick from the comfort of enormous La-Z-Boy chairs with legrests, and order comfort food and drink (muffins, cake, burgers…) from waiters. The cinema has an adults-only policy, too, so you won’t be bothered by kids moaning about how badly they need the toilet half way through.

Take in a show Head twenty minutes out of town to 48 DXB JULY 2009

the sweeping sand of Al Sahara Desert Resort for the quite spectacular - think no expense-spared pyrotechics, lights and effects - outdoor show, Jumana Secret of the Desert (04 367 9500). The show tells the story of good versus evil in ancient Arabia, narrated in English and prefaced by a mighty-fine Arabic buffet. Performances take place at 9pm, Tue-Sat, and tickets are priced at Dhs255 (£42.50) for adults and Dhs130 (£22) for kids (dinner is extra). Call 04 367 6520 to book. Meanwhile, Madinat Theatre (04 366 6546) – part of the gargantuan Madinat Jumeirah resort - runs the full gamut of on-stage entertainments - opera, drama, musicals, comedy etc – but shows tend to be staged sporadically so call to check what’s showing while you’re in town. Over at Mall of the Emirates you’ll find Dubai Community Theatre (04 341 4777), which lays on a similarly diverse array of shows as well as art exhibitions.

Split your sides The Laughter Factory (04 355 1862) is Dubai’s regular monthly stand-up comedy night. It hits a new venue on every night of its four day stint in the city and regularly pulls in the big names from the UK and US comedy circuits – and a well-oiled expat crowd (although far better-behaved than in the UK - no heckles here). Should your trip to Dubai coincide with its performances (check www.thelaughterfactory.com for details) you should definitely stop by.

THE INSIDE TRACK If you’re seeking somewhere that truly encapsulates your holiday spirit, you’ll find it at Layali Tent, beachside at Mina A’Salam hotel, which forms part of Madinat Jumeirah (04 366 8888). Every Saturday afternoon, Dubai’s party people dress down in beach attire for a day of cocktails and blissed-out beats - which go up in tempo once the sun has slipped away - at Soluna Chill Sessions. The fun begins at 6pm and entry is free before 7.30pm.

Ladies’ Night Picker

The bar owners of Dubai have hit on a cunning tactic to bring in crowds of customers - offering incredibly generous free booze offers for ladies. Here’s our pick of the bunch... START Dancing

Chart

In a Club

Sleek and stylish hotspot Alpha (04 702 2640), at Le Meridien airport hotel, grants girls a free supply of drink from 9pm-1am on any given Tuesday, when the tunes of choice are R&B and hip-hop. 50 DXB JULY 2009

Chatting

Latino

Sunday

At Malecon at Dubai Marine Beach Resort (04 346 1111) on a Tuesday, ladies get two free drinks between 10pm and midnight. When the mood hits you, take to the salsa-fuelled dancefloor.

Free champagne for ladies? All night long? Only in Dubai can this beverage madness endure. Get your free fizz by turning up at Boudoir at Dubai Marine Beach Resort (04 345 5995) on a Sunday evening.

In a Pub

Two Drinks

Scarlett’s, a large and racuous pub on the ground floor of Jumeirah Emirates Towers (04 319 8767) supplies all ladies with two free drinks between 9pm and 2am on a Tuesday.

Double Decker is a cheery, bus-themed Brit-style bar at the Murooj Rotana (04 321 1111) which offers ladies a pair of free drinks when they pop in on a Tuesday night from 9pm.

Tuesday

Four Drinks

The Boston Bar at the Jumeirah Rotana (04 345 5888) is modeled on the bar in Cheers and offers a hefty four drinks to all female visitors on a Tuesday night, from 9.30pm onwards.

BUYING A HOME Dubai’s building boom means that many visitors to the city end up investing in a second home or moving over for good...

Only in Dubai

Three truly surreal developments…

The Universe For when the world is not enough, how about The Universe? This soon-to-be-built island community will map out the planets of the solar system on the Arabian Gulf.

Time Residences Not happy with the view from your window? Move here, then. This residential tower is set to be fully rotating and powered by the sun.

ention the word Dubai to anyone outside of the city and their inevitable response is: isn’t that where they’re building that palm island thing? They’re talking about the Palm Jumeirah, a residential development so extraordinarily ambitious that it has become a symbol of the city. Of course, this is all part of Dubai’s marketing strategy – many of its developments are so utterly

outlandish (see ‘Only in Dubai’) that they claim thousands of column inches in the UK and are backed up by advertisements and billboards throughout the country. The strategy has worked, too: Britons buy more properties in Dubai than any other nationality. So if you like what you’ve seen of the city and fancy a tax-free life in the sun, here’s what you need to know about how and what to buy…

Palm Jumeirah was the original island but it also has a pair of younger siblings in the construction pipeline: Palm Jebel Ali and Palm Deira. Add to that The World – 300 islands which take the shape of the globe when viewed from above.

The Emirates strike back Dubai’s property boom has sent shockwaves throughout the world, but its effects have been greatest closer to home. If Dubai is the proverbial hare in the real estate race, then neighbouring emirate and UAE capital Abu Dhabi had, until recently, been the turtle. However, having watched Dubai revel in the rewards of a real

estate boom, Abu Dhabi has followed in the footsteps of its nearest neighbour, not least by developing islands. Two of them, Yas Island and Saadiyat Island, will be home to Formula One and outposts of the Guggenheim and the Louvre. Another emirate keen to get a slice of the property pie is Ras Al Khaimah. It’s dramatically

underdeveloped compared to heavyweight neighbours Dubai and Abu Dhabi, but that’s all to the good if you’re after a noisefree beachfront holiday home - if so, check out properties in The Cove and Al Hamra. For a quick return on your investment, experts reckon there’s smart money being pumped into property in the smallest emirate

of all, Ajman. Attractive steppayment plans on high-spec – pool, gym, sauna, Jacuzzi – towers like Springfield Residences (pictured), make this a market ripe for investors and those who want lowcost luxury.

YOUR NEW NEIGHBOURS: ELTON JOHN, MICHAEL OWEN, ROGER FEDERER, ANNA KOURNIKOVA, BRAD PITT... JULY 2009 DXB 51

BUYING A HOME

The Palm and World Islands

Home truths Thinking of moving to Dubai? Read on…

BUYING A HOME

Why should I buy property in Dubai – is it a better investment than buying elsewhere in the world? First and foremost, it’s a great location and accessible from most major cities in the world. It’s also tipped to become one of the world’s foremost financial centres, while the level of investment in infrastructure, industry, leisure and entertainment is pretty unique. The entry level for property owners is around £50,000 - and falling due to the credit crunch, so it offers opportunities for people with small or big budgets. Has the credit crunch hit Dubai’s property maket? It certainly has, yes. But the market in Dubai has shown incredible growth over the course of the past four years and it was always likely to level off at some point - the credit crunch has just sped up that process. So how has the market changed? First of all, as banks tighten their lending proceedures, it’s now much more difficult for people to get finance. In turn, this has brought about a sharp drop in the number of off-plan property transactions. This is the area of the market where speculators had made their small fortunes, buying properties - often in bulk - with a view to flipping them at a quick profit. It was often

the case that by the time a property was ready to move into, it had already amassed as many as five previous owners. Now, new laws preventing early flips - you have to own a property for nine months before putting it up for sale - and limited access to finance has meant that buyers are thin on the ground. In a lot of cases, speculators only secured enough finance to cover one or two step payments, and are desperate to offload before the next payment is due. So are there bargains to be had? There certainly are. Many of these speculators are doing all they can to offload what they have, and a stream of distress sales have recently entered the market. Many speculators are resigned to making a loss - previously unheard of - so it’s good news indeed for cash-rich buyers in the hunt for a holiday home. If I did buy a holiday home, would it be easy to find a tenant for the property when I’m not using it? The rental market in Dubai shows no sign of cooling. A law preventing anyone but immediate family members from cohabitating in villas has meant that thousands of the city’s residents have had to hunt for a new home. Add to that the continuing influx of new

residents and the fact that demand continues to outstrip supply and you have a recipe for a landlord-slanted rental market. As a foreigner, can I buy property in any area of Dubai? No, that right is reserved for GCC and UAE nationals. You are, however, permitted to buy freehold or leasehold properties in designated areas of the city. Why only in certain areas? Is there something wrong with them? On the contrary, they are just new locations where developers obtained land and were able to develop. Many of the new areas offer excellent facilities. In fact, some of the best and most sought-after locations for locals are in these designated areas. Are all of Dubai’s developers trustworthy? You’ll find that the majority of developers are offshoots of much larger firms, and that before they start to sell and prior to construction, they must issue monetary guarantees to master developers. That obviously provides a level of security, but, as always, it’s best to check out the developer’s credentials with a reputable real estate agent, such as Better Homes (04 344 7714) or Hamptons (04 362 7788).

...DAVID BECKHAM, ROD STEWART, BILL CLINTON, GEORGE MICHAEL, SIMON COWELL, LIZ HURLEY, FRANKIE DETTORI 52 DXB JULY 2009

DUBAI

The Hamiltons make the most of their outdoor pool

Which other areas of the city did you look at before moving to Arabian Ranches? We looked all over the place as we were new to Dubai and didn’t have a set idea in our minds of where we’d like to live. But in the end we were able to narrow it down to two locations – a 32nd floor apartment in Jumeirah Beach Residences and a villa in Arabian Ranches. So why did you settle on the villa? Because of our kids, basically. This place is on the ground floor, it has a garden with a pool and there’s a lot for them to do. What are the amenities like? There are loads of communal pools and parks – the pool areas have little barbecues for people to use, so you just bring your food along – and you can run, walk or roller skate all around the place. But other amenities, like places to eat and shops, aren’t so good. Why’s that? There’s a supermarket, which is small but it’s fine. But then there’s a pet shop, a book store, a shop selling watches and a jewellery outlet, a weird mix of

things, really. But then we do have golf and polo clubs within the community, and we should make more use of them. Arabian Ranches is quite far from the thick of things in Dubai. Is that a problem? If you look on a map it may seem that way, but you can get to most places quite quickly. We were originally pleased because of how close it is to our kids’ school, but somewhere like Mall of the Emirates is only ten minutes away. How close is the nearest school? There’s actually one within Arabian Ranches, which I think caters for 3-18 year olds. But the waiting list was so long when we arrived that they wouldn’t even add us to the list. But our kids’ school, Repton, is only fifteen minutes away and the kids absolutely love it there. It’s a brilliant school. Do you think the rent you pay for your villa represents value for money? I was surprised at how expensive it was when we moved in. But having looked at other places in the city I definitely think Arabian Ranches offers reasonable value.

READER

TIP!

SPIN CITY My husband and I have been looking at buying a holiday home. We were looking at Portugal, but since our visit to Dubai we’ve revised our opinions. We took a helicopter trip, as recommended in your Activities & Wellbeing section, and got a bird’s eye view of the city’s developments, which was amazing. We were very impressed with Dubai Marina, which is almost complete and is utterly beautiful. We’re now thinking about getting a place in the Marina’s Jumeirah Beach Residences instead of on the Algarve… Denny MacIntyre Send us your tips, comments and suggestions to youtellus@ hotmediapublishing.com JULY 2009 DXB 53

BUYING A HOME

THE EXPATS

Mark and Rachel Hamilton and their two young children moved to Dubai and into Arabian Ranches after scouring the city for a family home...

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