DXB City Expert - june'17 - UK

June 2017

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The insider’s guide to Dubai’s must-have visitor experiences Restaurants From fine dining to the coolest cafés Tours Let those in the know showcase their city Ramadan Where to head to enjoy Iftar Shopping Vibrant souks and label-loaded mega-malls

JW MARRIOT T® MARQUIS DUBAI

A reflection of true

Ramadan hospitality.

Ramadan is a time of tranquility and reflection, a time to slow down and connect with friends and family.

Celebrate this auspicious occasion in the World’s Tallest Hotel offering a wealth of options for Iftar and Sohour.

AL FANOUS LOUNGE AT DUBAI BALLROOM Iftar, AED 199 per person, from sunset to 8.30pm Sohour, À la carte menu, from 9pm to 3am AWARD-WINNING KITCHEN6 From sunset until 8.30pm, AED 215 per person RANG MAHAL BY ATUL KOCHHAR From sunset until 8pm, AED 325 per person EXCLUSIVE CORPORATE IFTARS Available upon request for exclusive hire and group inquiries of more than 50 people. From AED 160 per person For bookings, please contact Restaurant Reservations on +971 4 414 3000 or email jwmmrr@marriott.com For bookings over 50 guests or exclusive hire, please contact the Events Booking Centre on +971 4 414 2000 or email jwmarquis.dubai@marriott.com

Children’s Entry Policy: For Iftar, children below 6 years dine complimentary (maximum of 2 kids with 2 full paying adults). Additional children below 6 years and children between 7 and 12 years will be charged a 50% discount. For Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar, only children 7 years and above.

For Sohour, entry policy is 21 years and above.

JW Marriott®Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T+971 4 414 3000, F +971 4 414 6032 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | @jwdubaimarquis | jwmarriottmarquisdubai | #RamadanAtMarquis

Welcome Note

ediTorial Editorial Director John Thatcher Contributing Editor Lara Brunt

arT Art Director Kerri Bennett

commercial Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Commercial Director Rawan Chehab Sales Manager Mohamed Galal

ProdUcTion Production Manager Muthu Kumar

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DXB City Expert

A WA R M

To

DUBAI We know it can feel a little overwhelming when you first set foot in Dubai.

How exactly do you explore this ultra-modern metropolis? Where do you start?

We love Dubai and we want to ensure that you feel the same, which is why we decided to create this handy-sized, helpful guide to ease you on your way.

Rather than present you with a long list of recommendations that would take you the duration of your holiday to read, our Dubai-based team of in-the-know writers have cherry-picked the city’s best bits – leaving you free to simply enjoy it.

Inside this guide you’ll find insider knowledge on everything from the best restaurants with a view and tips on where to shop for clothes made by the finest local fashion designers, to the coolest clubs and top-notch family entertainment.

We’ll also tell you which of the many organised tours are the best to take to see all of this city’s ample attractions.

This month Dubai observes the Holy Month of Ramadan, and we'll guide you toward the best Iftars and suhoors so you can share in the celebration.

All that remains is for us to wish you the holiday of a lifetime. Go get it…

John ThaTcher Editorial Director DXB City Expert Cover image: Arabic mezze at Ayamna, Atlantis, The Palm

Contents

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DXB City Expert

The

CONTENTS 5

On ArrivAl All you need to know when you touch down in Dubai.

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SO ThiS iS DubAi A little local knowledge to help ease your way into the city.

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TOp Of The TOurS Let the experts take the strain out of sightseeing.

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Where TO eAT Ranging from fine dining and ‘only in Dubai’ eats to family favourites and best budget options, this chapter comes stuffed with our recommendations.

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Where TO ShOp With outlet malls and open-air markets, there’s more to Dubai’s shopping scene than merely the world’s biggest mall. Credit cards at the ready…

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WhAT TO DO Underwater, on the water, in the sand and in the snow: there are myriad ways to enjoy yourself in this city. We’ve selected the best.

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Where TO GO From beach bars and rooftop lounges to speakeasies and superclubs, we hope you’ve packed your dancing shoes – you’re going to need them.

Produced for dnata Travel by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors contained in DXB City Expert.

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On Arrival

DXB City Expert

On

ARRIVAL You’re almost there now, but before you head off to your hotel here’s a little something to help you on your way

Leaving The airporT There are ample public taxis available at the airport, though there’s every chance you’ll have to queue to get one.

As you do so, you may notice a line of estate-sized pink-roof taxis. These are exclusively for women and families, and are helmed by female drivers only.

There are also taxis specifically for special-needs travellers – both can be requested from the taxi-line attendant once you’re at the front of the queue.

Your fare will include an airport pickup fee of Dhs25, which is the amount the meter will start from.

Dubai International Airport is also serviced by the Dubai Metro.

However, each passenger is restricted to two pieces of luggage, one of which shouldn’t be bigger than hand luggage.

Trains run approximately every 10 minutes and depart from Terminals 1 and 3 – just follow the signs.

Trains start at 5.50am (5.30am on Thursdays), and stop at midnight (1am on Thursdays and Fridays). But be aware that trains start at only 10am on Fridays. There are just two lines, so it’s easy to work out your route, and you’ll likely find taxis at each station to take you to your specific address.

If you’re intending to hire a car on arrival in Dubai, you’ll find all the major operators are present at the airport.

Chief among them is Hertz, which is

available at both Terminal 1 (+971 4 224 5222) and Terminal 3 (+971 4 220 3013) of Dubai International Airport.

Drivers must be aged 21 or over and be in possession of a valid driving licence from their home country. Remember that driving in Dubai is on the righthand side of the road.

hire a heLping hand from marhaba If you’re reading this before you travel to Dubai, or if you haven’t yet planned your return journey to the airport, it’s well worth checking out the services of Marhaba (+971 4 389 8989, marhabaservices.com).

On arrival, their always-smiling staff greet you as you come off the aircraft, before ferrying you by buggy to passport control and whizzing you past the queues (which can be long) to their dedicated counters and beyond, where a porter will collect your luggage.

Services are tailored to suit individuals, families and those with specific needs.

Fast-tracking through airport procedures is a feature of any return journey you make with Marhaba, too, while you can also book a chauffeur pick-up from anywhere in Dubai and enjoy the hospitality of their airport lounge – and its complimentary food and drink – as you await boarding.

have a word Although English is spoken and understood pretty much everywhere you’ll go in Dubai, it’s polite to try a little Arabic when you show your passport on arrival. If Arabic’s not your native tongue, here are a few helpful words…

Marhaba : Hello Sabah al-khayr : Good morning As-salaam alaikum : Peace be upon you Ma’assalama : Goodbye Minfadlak : Please Shukran : Thank you

geT connecTed Before departing the airport you may wish to buy a sim card that’s designed for visitors to use while in the UAE. It costs Dhs35 and provides you with the Visitor Mobile Line (VML), allowing you to make calls – or text – while in Dubai at a fraction of the cost you’ll pay for roaming. You can buy it from the du shop in the arrivals hall of both Terminal 1 and Terminal 3. Once purchased you can top it up by buying prepaid cards at various convenient locations across the city, including du shops. See du.ae for a list of locations.

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

rAmAdAN AwAreNess Dubai is a very warm and welcoming city, especially during Ramadan, which will be observed in the city this month until June 26. Like anywhere else you travel in the world, you’ll want to show respect for local sensibilities. These are a few things to keep in mind…

IS

DU B A I Chapter oNe

You’ve read about it, seen the pictures and marvelled from afar.

Now you’re here. Our inside track will get you up to speed so you can get on with having the holiday of a lifetime

A little bit About this greAt city of ours With a skyline dominated by towering skyscrapers and now-iconic structures like Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa, it’s hard to imagine that Dubai was once little more than a fishing village.

The Bani Yas tribe settled next to Dubai Creek in 1833, and the area soon became a hub for fishing, pearling and trading. The discovery of ‘black gold’ in 1966 triggered Dubai’s remarkable transformation into the glittering city of today.

In 1971, Dubai joined with six neighbouring emirates – Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujairah and (in 1972) Ras al-Khaimah – to form the United Arab Emirates, and this union is celebrated each year on 2 December. Under the late Sheikh Zayed, the first president of the UAE, the country blossomed and has developed into one of the world’s most prosperous, while still remaining true to its rich heritage of Bedouin, Islamic and Emirati cultures.

Today, Dubai is home to over 200 nationalities that are attracted by its opportunities and lifestyle. Such has been the city’s rapid expansion beyond

its Creek origins that residents now commonly refer to ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, with the old part encompassing Dubai Creek and the wider Bur Dubai area in the north of the city, and the new part featuring the strictly modern superstructures – Downtown Dubai, Dubai Marina and all – that spread for miles into the south of the city.

the bAsics, iN No more thAN 140 chArActers The Climate Expect average daytime temperatures of 40°C and high humidity, so be sure to slap on that sunscreen. Overnight temperatures rarely drop below 26°C. The Currency The UAE Dirham is what you’ll use.

Notes come in 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5, and their value is pegged at Dhs3.67 = USD1.

The Weekend The UAE’s weekend is Friday/Saturday.

Dubai Metro services start at 10am on Fridays and 5.50am on Saturdays, and run until 1am on weekends.

You can’t eat or drink (water included) in public during daylight hours. You should also abstain from smoking or chewing gum.

However, it’s not a problem for young children to eat and drink as normal in public places. Likewise those who are pregnant, elderly or sick.

It’s very important to dress modestly during Ramadan when in public, including within shopping malls – cover your shoulders and knees.

Be sure to refrain from over-the-top public displays of affection.

Be aware that Dubai’s roads are particularly busy around Iftar time (sunset) and, as drivers who are fasting tend to be tired, accidents can occur at a greater rate than outside of Ramadan.

Try to avoid travelling at this time.

eNjoy eid Al fitr Eid al-Fitr, or 'Festival of Breaking the Fast', is expected to start on June 25 and is the celebration that marks the end of the Holy Month of Ramadan.

The three-day festival sees a number of events happening around town, as well as a long weekend for UAE residents.

Ramadan rituals at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead.

Embrace the Holy Month of Ramadan and experience a traditional Hammam incorporating heat, steam and authentic ingredients. Begin with a vigorous scrub using scented black olive soap from Morocco along with a healing rose clay mask to cleanse. Afterwards, a soothing oil and body balm with exotic Arabian florals are massaged into the skin to leave you feeling refreshed and glowing with radiance.

105 minutes, AED 688 per person Original price, AED 860 per person Saray Spa received the award for Best Hydrotherapy Treatment at the Middle East Pool & Spa Awards 2016.

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |

@JWDubaiMarquis |

jwmarriottmarquisdubai

T&Cs apply. This offer is valid throughout the month of Ramadan. Offer is subject to availability. Spa opening hours are daily, 9am to 11pm. Indulge in additional facilities such as Swedish Dry Sauna, Steam Sauna, Circulation Shower, Jacuzzi and a relaxation lounge.

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DXB City Expert

Sheikh ZayeD roaD

Jumeirah Beach Road, as well as trendy shops, cafés and restaurants at popular new developments such as The Galleria Mall, BoxPark and City Walk. Jumeirah Mosque is another reason to visit.

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers guided tours every Saturday to Thursday at 10am (adults, Dhs20; under-12s, free).

So This Is Dubai

Get Your Bearings

Throughout this guide we’ve referenced areas of Dubai, which to the first-time visitor may mean nothing at all. To help, here’s the skinny on the city’s districts you’ll most likely encounter...

Downtown Dubai Home to the world’s largest mall, tallest tower and biggest fountain, Dubai’s showpiece city centre is as glitzy as it gets. Lined with palm trees that twinkle with thousands of fairy lights, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard boasts five-star hotels, restaurants, a San Francisco-style tram and a constant flow of supercars.

Another popular spot is Souk Al Bahar (‘market of the sailor’), a waterfront entertainment and dining hub overlooking The Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa.

Dubai Marina anD Jbr In the south of the city, this buzzing district includes a man-made marina and a forest of skyscrapers that stretch from Sheikh Zayed Road to Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). Brimming with hotels and restaurants, there are two beachfront promenades, The Walk and The Beach at JBR, packed with family-friendly eateries. You’ll also find the Marina Mall and the Dubai Tram, which connects to Dubai Metro and the Palm Jumeirah monorail.

bur Dubai anD Deira Flanking the southern side of Dubai Creek, Bur Dubai is the oldest part of the city. Here you’ll find the majority of the city’s historical sites, including Dubai Museum and Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House, as well as restored wind-tower houses and a textile souk. Over the water, Deira is a melting pot of Arab, Asian and African cultures and a great spot for cheap street eats, as well as shopping in the Gold Souk and Spice Souk.

Atlantis, The Palm

The 8km stretch of the main highway between Business Bay and the World Trade Centre roundabout is popular with tourists, expats and locals alike, thanks to the clutch of five-star hotels including the Fairmont Dubai, The Conrad and H Hotel, which are easily reached by metro (stations line Sheikh Zayed Road). Just past the roundabout is the brilliant Zabeel Park, one of the city’s largest green spaces.

JuMeirah Home to sprawling villas and excellent beaches, this low-rise suburb overlaps with Umm Suqeim (where you’ll find Burj Al Arab and Madinat Jumeirah, an arabesque-inspired hotel, dining and entertainment complex). Jumeirah is known for boutique shopping along

PalM JuMeirah Even if you’re not staying here, you can still visit the man-made island that’s become a symbol of Dubai.

A monorail runs along the length of the trunk to Atlantis, The Palm, where you can spend the day at Aquaventure Waterpark. Meanwhile, the 11km-long crescent has a string of five-star hotels with restaurants and spas open to non-guests.

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

10 of the best ways to do Dubai Best for… downhill sKiinG in A MAll Oh yes, you can! Keep cool at Dubai's world-famous indoor snow resort, Ski Dubai (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506).

The whole family will love skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing or just mingling with the super-cute penguins in the mountain-themed setting.

Best for… A toe-tAppinG fAMily MusicAl Experience the larger-than-life world of Bollywood at Jaan-e-Jigar, the Broadway-style musical at Rajmahal Theatre in Bollywood Parks Dubai (bollywoodparksdubai.com). The spectacular two-hour show is a classic tale of good versus evil and features colourful, catchy song and dance routines together with amazing costumes and sets. Thurs-Sat, tickets from Dhs95

Best for… lAte niGht shoppinG Follow the locals' lead and hit the malls when the sun goes down. Dubai's many malls stay open later during Ramadan, often until 2am, and are a hive of activity. Two top malls to soak up the atmosphere are The Dubai Mall (800 38224 6255, thedubaimall.com) and Mall of the Emirates (+971 4 409 9000, malloftheemirates.com).

Best for… spottinG MArine AniMAls Explore the world's largest suspended aquarium at Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506). It's home to over 140 species, including sharks and stingrays, along with the magical Mermaid Cave where you can meet a mermaid and have your picture taken with her.

Jaan-e-Jigar

Best for... nAture-lovinG fAMilies Little explorers will love the Dubai Butterfly Garden (+971 4 422 8902, dubaibutterflygarden.com). Open yearround, the fluttery attraction features five temperature-controlled domes filled with thousands of plants, flowers and butterflies from around the world.

Don't miss the royal portraits made completely out of butterflies. Dhs50

Best for... theMe pArK fun for less Dubai Parks & Resorts (+971 4 820 0000, dubaiparksandresorts.com) – made up of LEGOLAND Dubai, Motiongate Dubai, Bollywood Parks Dubai and LEGOLAND Waterpark – is celebrating summer with a fabulous offer. Tickets to a single park cost Dhs195, including unlimited food and drinks, and Dhs295 for two parks.

Best for... A suBliMe spA experience

Best for... An ultrA-luxe pool dAy

Jetlag playing havoc with your sleep?

Treat yourself to a two-hour Dubai Dream treatment at Iridium Spa at The St. Regis Dubai (+971 4 435 5500, stregisdubai.com). After an aromatherapy bath, the skilled therapist will firmly knead away your knots and spray a sleep mist to encourage you to drift off during your massage. Dhs830

Want to do Dubai in style? Book an airconditioned cabana by the pool at the iconic Burj Al Arab (+971 4 301 7400, jumeirah.com). The luxury abodes come with butler service, fully stocked mini-bars and sleek sunloungers with Instagram-worthy views of the sailshaped hotel and Arabian Sea. From Dhs1,800 a day.

Best for... BAGGinG A unique souvenir Looking to take a little piece of Dubai home? Find everything from organic skincare and local honey to leather handbags and handmade jewellery at Ripe Market (+971 4 380 7602, ripeme.com). During summer, the popular market is held indoors at Times Square Centre, every Saturday from 9am-3pm, with street food stalls, kids' activities and entertainment.

Best for... teenAGers (And BiG Kids) Conveniently located at The Dubai Mall, SEGA Republic (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506) features great gaming action.

Spread over two levels, there are more than 170 amusement, arcade, video and redemption games, plus 16 adrenalinefuelled attractions.

EXPLORE A DIVERSE IFTAR EXPERIENCE

Immerse into an Iftar spread this Ramadan complete with live stations accompanied by a selection of refreshing classic beverages.

From sunset to 9.30pm | AED 120 per person Indulge in hubbly bubbly served on the outdoor terrace starting from AED 55

JOIN US Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites, King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud Street, Dubai Marina marriottharbourdubaidining.com | T. 971.4.319.4000 To find out more, follow us on

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites and

@marriottharbour

T&Cs apply. Children below 6 years dine complimentary - maximum of 2 kids with 2 full paying adults.

Additional children below 6 years and children between 7 and 12 years will be charged a 50% discount. The outlets operational timings during Ramadan will be 6am to 5pm serving breakfast and lunch and from sunset to 9.30pm serving Iftar.

#BRUNCH068

BRUNCH WITH A LICENSE TO GRILL

When the world is not enough, unleash your inner Bond and experience the high life at the 068 brunch. With a license to grill, this exciting brunch will satisfy even the most discerning palate. Live another day while sipping on signature beverages and taking in Dubai’s daring views from the world’s tallest hotel.

Enter the Vault for the GoldenEye after-party, where beverages are shaken, not stirred.

Every Friday, 1pm to 4pm, starting from AED 495 ‘For Your Eyes Only’ JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai I JWDubaiMarquis I Prime68DXB

Top Of The Tours

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Top OF THE

TOURS Chapter T WO

Bags unpacked, sunblock slathered on, it’s time to get out and see what this city is all about. But with its climate dictating a dearth of paved walkways, Dubai isn’t a place you can easily explore on foot.

Luckily, our friends at Arabian Adventures and City Sightseeing have just the answer

DXB City Expert

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DXB City Expert

TradiTional dubai CiT y Tour A must-do in Dubai Discover the old, traditional neighbourhoods of Dubai and explore the rich heritage, trading culture and vibrant souks.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Photo stop close to Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Mosque and Zabeel Palace • Visit to Dubai Museum • Traditional abra (water taxi) crossing over Dubai Creek • Walk through the Spice and Gold Souks • Add a one-hour dhow cruise to your tour for just Dhs50 dayS of operaTion: English and

German: Sat- Thu (half day; morning), Fri (afternoon only); French and Italian: Sun, Wed (half day; morning); Portuguese and Spanish: Mon, Thu (full day), includes a tour of New Dubai; Russian: Sat, Tue (half day; morning); Mandarin: Mon, Thu (half day; morning); Japanese: daily (half day; morning) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up and drop-off; tour guide Good To knoW: Available in different languages; ask about adding a Dhow Cruise or Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari; when departing from Abu Dhabi, this is a full-day tour on Sun and Tue, including a stop at The Dubai Mall in the afternoon; operates year-round; modest dress and comfortable walking shoes are recommended lanGuaGeS: English and German; French and Italian; Portuguese and Spanish; Russian; Mandarin; Japanese deparTinG froM: All emirates priCinG: From Dhs165 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

priVaTe dune dinner Safari Enjoy an unforgettable evening in the desert Surprise your sweetheart, celebrate a special occasion, or just enjoy being surrounded by silence and stars during this VIP experience. A private 4x4 will whisk you away into the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve to our authentic Bedouin camp.

HiGHliGHTS:

• An exciting dune drive in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Falcon viewing • Camel ride into the camp area • Three-course Arabic dinner in a private Bedouin-style tent • Star-gazing away from the city lights dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily (late

afternoon until evening) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up

and drop-off; safari guide; three-course barbecue dinner with soft drinks and selected beverages GOOd TO knOW: Modest dress and comfortable walking shoes are recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting conservation deparTinG frOM: Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Fujairah and Ras Al Khaimah priCinG: Dhs895, all-inclusive To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

deSerT dune buGGieS An exhilarating off-road adventure tour Departing from Dubai, you’ll head into the desert where the off-road dune buggies will be waiting. Then it’s a roller-coaster of a ride over the dunes in the fully automatic fourseater vehicles that were built for fun.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Fully guided tour along the dunes • Driving and safety instruction provided • All dune buggies are four-wheeldrive, fully automatic with seat belts, roll cages and off-road suspension • Driver- and passenger-experience options are available • Shared or private buggy options • Fantastic desert photo opportunities dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily (half day, morning/afternoon) WHaT’S inCluded: Soft drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOd TO knOW: Sports shoes are recommended; operates year-round; drivers must be aged 18 or over and carry a valid UAE or international driver’s licence; passengers must be aged six or over priCinG: 30 minutes’ driving time (sharing), Dhs695 per person. Passenger (sharing), Dhs300 per person. Private buggy (for up to four people), Dhs1,500

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

eaST COaST TOur See wonderful Fujairah, one of the seven emirates Take a day to explore the picturesque East Coast of the United Arab Emirates.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Shop at the Friday Market, open daily, for local crafts, pottery and carpets • Lunch stop (lunch not included) and an opportunity to swim in the beautiful ocean • Photo stop at Bidiyah Mosque, the oldest and smallest mosque in the United Arab Emirates • Photo stop at Fujairah Fort • Drive through canyon landscapes dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and

German: Mon, Wed, Fri (full day); Russian: Fri (full day) GOOd TO knOW: Operates year-round; hotel transfers included; guided tour; modest dress is recommended. lanGuaGeS: English and German; Russian deparTinG frOM: Dubai. Departing from Fujairah and Ras Al Khaimah: Sun and Tue (half day, excludes lunch) priCinG: Dhs255 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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CiT y Of liGHTS and raMadan WalkinG TOur Special Ramadan night tour During the Holy Month of Ramadan, you can enjoy two special evening routes that allow you watch Dubai transform into a sparkling city of lights while discovering its cultural heart. The Sunset Red route lets you explore the famed Dubai Creek, along the Bastakyia, Shindagha and Deira districts where the traditional souks are located. Meanwhile, the Midnight Blue route showcases the striking skyline of ‘new’ Dubai, including the glittering Burj Khalifa, Dubai Marina and the distinctive silhouette of Atlantis, The Palm. free raMadan WalkinG TOur:

Experience this very special time in Dubai with our guided walking tour though historical Bur Dubai.

Explore the well-preserved areas of Bastakyia and Al Fahidi to visit a local art gallery and the coffee museum, exclusively open for our guests. Your guide will share in-depth knowledge about the Muslim faith and the meaning of Ramadan, while passing by the Royal Court Mosque along the Creek.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Two sightseeing routes showcasing Dubai by night • Special 80-minute Ramadan walking tour by night • See all the big sights including Burj Khalifa and Atlantis, The Palm • Audio commentary in 13 languages dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily, 7:15pm-10pm WHaT’S inCluded: Hop-on, hop-off access to all

City Sightseeing buses on two routes for three hours GOOd TO knOW: Tour is free when purchasing a 24hr, 48hr or 7-day City Sightseeing Dubai ticket; both routes are included in the ticket price and there is enough time to do both; Ramadan walking tour is only available with 48hr ticket or 7-day pass lanGuaGeS: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian priCinG: This tour cannot be purchased separately To book, visit citysightseeing-dubai.com, or call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224)

Top Of The Tours

CiT y SiGHTSeeinG TOur The ultimate city bus tour Discover Dubai at your own pace with City Sightseeing Dubai. This ‘hop-on, hop-off’ bus tour is the simplest concept: one ticket valid for a minimum of 24 hours, more than 40 bus stops spread over four routes citywide, and you decide when to ride, where to get off and what to visit. Your ticket also includes lots of additional value: entry to museums, boat rides, walking tours, coffee and other discounts at various merchants. From the open top of a double-decker bus there are no better views of this vibrant city, and they’re complimented by commentary available in 13 languages. From 9am to 10pm, 365 days a year.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Four sightseeing routes • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Free entry to a number of museums and attractions (see below) dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily, 9am-5.30pm WHaT’S inCluded: The 24hr ticket includes:

dhow cruise at Dubai Creek; entry to Dubai Museum; City of Light tour; free cup of coffee at Costa Coffee. The 48hr ticket and 7-day pass also include entry to Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo, a Palm Jumeirah cruise and a ride on City Sightseeing Sharjah and Ajman (check with drivers for the shuttle timing) GOOd TO knOW: Before your 24hr ticket has expired, you can upgrade to a 48hr ticket or 7-day pass lanGuaGeS: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian priCinG: 24hr ticket: Adult, Dhs240; child, Dhs100; family, Dhs580. 48hr ticket: Adult, Dhs295; child, Dhs130; family, Dhs720.

7-day pass: Adult, Dhs340; child, Dhs170; family, Dhs850 (child: aged five-15; family: two adults + two children) To book, visit citysightseeing-dubai.com, or call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224)

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‘neW’ dubai CiT y TOur See all of Dubai's iconic landmarks With its man-made islands, audacious architecture and futuristic skyline, Dubai has more than its fair share of iconic landmarks, and you can tick them off your list during this tour. Ride the monorail to Atlantis, The Palm, explore the buzzing Dubai Marina area, window-shop at The Dubai Mall and admire the view from the world’s tallest tower.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Visit to The Lost Chambers Aquarium at Atlantis, The Palm • One-way ride on The Palm Jumeirah monorail • Drive through Dubai Marina and the Jumeirah Beach Residence area • Afternoon visit to The Dubai Mall • Visit to Burj Khalifa (with option to include the observation-deck ticket) • Free pick-up; tour ends at The Dubai Mall dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and German: daily except Fri (morning, half day); Italian and French: Mon, Thu (morning, half day); Portuguese and Spanish: Mon, Thu (full-day tour of old and new Dubai); Russian: Mon, Thu (morning, half day) GOOd TO knOW: Modest dress and comfortable walking shoes are recommended priCinG: Adult, from Dhs350; child, Dhs300 (including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket); adult, Dhs225; child, Dhs175 (excluding At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket)

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

abu dHabi CiT y TOur See the UAE’s vibrant capital and landmark buildings Explore the sights and landmarks of Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Refreshment stop on Yas Island, close to the Yas Marina F1 circuit • Visit the traditional fruit, vegetable and date markets to see traders at work • Stop at Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi and opt to have lunch at one of the cafés.

Lunch is not included in the tour price due to the variety of options available • Drive along the Abu Dhabi Corniche • Pass the Emirates Palace Hotel, Al Bateen area and the palaces • Tour Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and

German: Mon, Tue, Wed, Sat (full day); French and Italian: Sat (full day); Russian: Fri (full day) GOOd TO knOW: Very modest dress code is required for the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque visit; operates yearround; hotel transfers are included; if departing from Abu Dhabi, this is a half-day tour, excluding the Yas Island visit and lunch, on Mon, Wed and Sat lanGuaGeS: English and German; French, Italian and Russian deparTinG frOM: Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi priCinG : From Dhs255 per person To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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Top Of The Tours

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SundOWner dune dinner Safari A magical experience The mysterious desert is the ideal venue for a magical and memorable evening. Watch the sun go down as you drive onto a traditional Bedouin-style camp, where a delicious dinner awaits.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Dune driving through the desert • Stop for a falcon viewing (part of the all-inclusive package) • Sunset photo stop in the dunes • The all-inclusive package includes unlimited grape and hops beverages. Alternatively, choose the soft-drinks only package • Camel rides, henna hand painting and aromatic shisha available • Belly-dancing performance • Star-gazing dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily (late afternoon until evening) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up and drop-off; safari guide; threecourse barbecue dinner with soft drinks and select beverages; all items mentioned in the tour GOOd TO knOW: Optional souvenirs and photos are available for purchase; option to upgrade to a private 4x4 vehicle; permanent toilets are available at the campsite; entertainment may vary during Ramadan and religious holidays lanGuaGeS: English deparTinG frOM: All emirates priCinG: Dhs375, all-inclusive

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

abu dHabi CiT y TOur WiTH ferrari WOrld Explore the city sights and experience fast-paced thrills Abu Dhabi is a fascinating mix of tradition and progression. Marvel at its landmarks, and enjoy an afternoon at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, home to the world’s fastest roller coaster.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Tour the majestic Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque • Stroll along the Abu Dhabi Corniche • Take in the sights of Abu Dhabi and drive past the Emirates Palace Hotel • Spend an exciting afternoon at leisure at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and

German: Sun, Thurs (full day); Portuguese and Spanish: Sun, Tues (full day); French and Italian: Tues (full day); Russian: Sun, Thurs (full day) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up and drop-off; tour guide; entrance to Ferrari World Abu Dhabi GOOd TO knOW: Very modest dress is required for Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque lanGuaGeS: English and German; Portuguese and Spanish; Italian and French; and Russian deparTinG frOM: Dubai, Sharjah and Ajman priCinG: Adult, Dhs495; child, Dhs375 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Chapter THREE

Eat

Dubai’s cultural diversity is reflected in its culinary mosaic of fantastic restaurants – from the best Indian food this side of the subcontinent to sleek Japanese eateries and authentic Arabic mezze. It’s little wonder that world-renowned chefs are falling over themselves to open venues in the city. There is something for every taste in Dubai, so tuck in

THE bEsT IfTaRs and suHooRs Ramadan Kareem! Enjoy the community spirit of Ramadan in Dubai by attending one of the many iftar and suhoor events held after the sun goes down. We’ve rounded up a selection to suit all tastes, with iftars starting at sunset until around 8-8:30pm, followed by suhoors until the early hours.

The ballroom of JW Marriott Marquis Dubai (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) will be transformed into the opulent Al Fanous Lounge with white, gold and jewel hues, Oriental carpets and live oud music, making it one of Dubai’s most glamorous Ramadan locations.

The lavish buffet features more than

200 Arabic and international dishes, including favourites such as lamb ouzi, freshly-baked kunafa and an interactive Turkish ice-cream area. Enjoy it all for Dhs195 per person.

For a more casual family affair, Kitchen6 (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) features six live cooking stations with Asian woks, Middle Eastern grills, European roasts and authentic Indian cuisine, along with an organic section and dessert buffet. Dhs215, 50% discount for 7-12 years, complimentary for kids under 6 (maximum of two kids with two full paying adults). A stone’s throw across the Dubai Canal, The St. Regis Dubai (+971 4 435 5577, stregisdubai.com) is also hosting a dazzling nightly iftar

buffet in a dedicated outdoor Ramadan tent in the quaint surroundings of Le Patio. There’s a wide range of modern and traditional Arabic fare, including specialty juices, hot and cold mezze, lamb ouzi, mixed grill, shawarma, kabsa and desserts such as baklava, qatayef and basbousa. Dhs225 per person.

The full flavour of the Middle East is on offer at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray (+971 4 453 0444, jumeirah.com) on Palm Jumeirah. Lovers of Lebanese cuisine should visit Al Nafoorah, which offers a set menu of hot and cold mezze, aromatic mains and a wide selection of traditional desserts, while Lalezar serves up a set menu of Turkish delights complemented by traditional Samovarbrewed tea and Turkish coffee. In the

Anantara The Palm

JW Marriott Marquis

Where To Eat Molecule

Palazzo Versace

Taj Dubai

abouT THIs CHapTER During Ramadan, many independent cafés and restaurants only open after sunset. Hotels (and areas like DIFC) usually have restaurants open for guests during the day; some discreetly serve alcohol during the day, while others hold off until after sunset. We’ve included a phone number and it’s wise to call ahead to confirm the venue is open. Where possible, we've also included a website, should you wish to look at menus and prices.

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Where To Eat

stunning Imperium dining room, diners can enjoy a sumptuous Arabic buffet surrounded by gilded columns and crystal chandeliers. The offerings at all three restaurants cost Dhs195, with a 50% discount for 4-12 years, while under-4s dine free.

Also on Dubai’s famous palm-shaped island, Crescendo at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort (+971 4 567 8304, dubai-palm.anantara.com) has a special Iftar buffet of mouthwatering Arabic and international cuisine, with live kanoun music and indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the infinity pool towards the Arabian Sea. With classic dishes such as sambousek jebnih and mutabal alongside shawarma, kebab and sweet treats like kunafa and umm ali, this is a great option if you're sampling Middle Eastern food for the first time. Dhs185 adults, Dhs90 children aged 6-12 years.

At Crowne Plaza Dubai (800 276963, fundining.ae), Al Dana Restaurant is offering a fabulous taste of Arabia, too. The buffet dishes range from Arabic specialties such as Lebanese mezze and lamb ouzi to International cuisine such as steamed salmon with pesto sauce, plus a tempting array of Arabic sweets and desserts. Dhs160, Dhs80 for 6-12 years, free for kids under 6. The restaurant will also host an Eid Brunch on the second day of Eid Al Fitr, with an Arabic and Lebanese buffet, live cooking stations and a sumptuous seafood selection. Families will also enjoy complimentary pool access and face painting for the kids.

Dhs185 adults, Dhs80 children.

Over at Palazzo Versace Dubai (+971 4 556 8840, palazzoversace.ae), the faithful can break their fast in the luxurious surroundings of Giardino – Versace fans will recognise the famous palm print – which overlooks the pool From live cooking and carving stations to a wide variety of authentic culinary creations from Syria, Morocco, the UAE and Turkey, you can expect a stylish, yet laidback affair. Dhs220; suhoor is served from 10pm-2am, with a minimum spend of Dhs160 per person.

Taj Dubai (+971 4 4383 111, tajhotels.com) has two impressive iftars to

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GBR

choose from. Tesoro features a buffet of Arabic and Indian favourites, including lamb ouzi and shawarma, along with live stations, traditional Arabic juices and mocktails. Dhs195 per person; Dhs299 with a traditional shisha at the lower pool deck; 50% discount for 6-12 years, under-5s free. Meanwhile, Bombay Brasserie has a set menu harking back to the days of the Royal Moghul empire, featuring classic Indian dishes with a Middle Eastern twist. Chef Thoufeek has worked with the Jamia Milia Ismaia University Delhi to have the 17th-century recipes translated from Persian, with highlights such as fish kofta with saffron and zir biryani (grilled lamb served with sweet ‘itr’ fragrant rice). Dhs225 per person.

Gastronomes will also enjoy the special Ramadan set menu at Rang Mahal

by Atul Kochhar (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com). The 11 dishes celebrate the heritage of Indian cuisine but include some exciting modern twists that will impress both fine dining connoisseurs and lovers of traditional Indian cuisine. Dhs325 per person, 50% discount for 7-12 years.

wHaT’s nEw In Town?

The hottest table in town is currently Katsuya by Starck (+971 4 419 0676, katsuyarestaurant.com) at Jumeirah Al Naseem. With stunning views of

Burj Al Arab, the restaurant pairs Philippe Starck-designed interiors and exceptional Japanese cuisine from master chef Katsuya Uechi. Signatures include the crispy rice with spicy tuna, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno, Wagyu with foie gras and, of course, misomarinated black cod.

Over at The Oberoi Dubai, Waka (+971 4 444 1455, waka.ae) is the city’s latest Latin American offering.

Chef Roberto Segura, a well-known name in Dubai, dishes up a Latin American flavours combined with Japanese seasonings and using French techniques. Highlights of the menu include the ‘Waka caliente’, a unique take on ceviche that is served by the chef using a really hot marble stone inside a pot, and Coco Loco, a delicious mix of coconut mousse, pineapple confit and passion fruit ice cream.

Definitely one to check out.

Meanwhile, Zahira (+971 4 501 8606, zahira.ae) at the H Hotel is the latest offering from acclaimed Australian-Lebanese chef Greg Malouf.

The sharing-style menu offers a stylish take on traditional Middle Eastern cuisine, with dishes such as salmon kibbeh, duck bisteeya, seven vegetable tagine, Malouf’s famous wagyu basterma and knife-and-fork ice cream.

The warm and inviting space features blue and dark green hues, banquette seating, ornate wood and brass details.

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Where To Eat

During Ramadan, the restaurant is offering a set iftar menu for Dhs190 per person, including dishes such as slow-cooked spiced lamb with nut rice and salmon tarator with tahini and walnuts, followed by a la carte dining from 8.30pm.

On Palm Jumeirah, housed in the beautiful Dukes Dubai hotel, is the Great British Restaurant, otherwise known as GBR (+971 4 455 1101, dukesdubai.com). No prizes for guessing the cuisine on offer here, but you will be suitably impressed by the high standard of it. This is the place to come for expertly cooked (better than your mum makes) roast meats with all the trimmings, fish and chips boasting crispy batter and feather-light fish, and comforting cottage pie, fashioned from slow cooked beef. Bookend your mains choice with a fabulous coronation chicken and a quintessentially English cherry bakewell tart.

Le Cirque

For a luxe, modern dining experience from the subcontinent, head to Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

The menu sings with a cacophony of flavour and creativity, and we heartily recommend you indulge in the very well-priced grazing menu. You’ll discover that every bite of it is an absolute delight.

perfeCt pizzas

Celebrity Chefs’ restaurants Michelin-starred chefs have long been coming to Dubai to hawk their wares, though the vast majority are here in name only.

One chef who always causes a stir in whichever city he appears is Jason Atherton, whose Marina Social (+971 4 446 6777, ihg.com) is at the InterContinental Dubai Marina.

Atherton’s Social concept has won an army of fans in London, and while the Dubai offshoot hasn’t yet hit the same dizzy heights, it’s still a great destination for dishes big on detail and flavour. Be sure to snag a table on the Marina-facing terrace.

At Dragonfly by Tim Raue (+971 4 342 7044, dragonfly.ae) at City Walk, head chef Christian Singer sticks to Raue’s signature style, which sees Asian ingredients and Western techniques collide, often in spectacular fashion.

Top dishes to try include Peking duck, served alongside meaty duck broth and delicate foie-gras mousse, and wasabi langoustine, a roller coaster of textures and flavours that incorporates hot and cold; sweet, sour and spicy; crispy, smooth and tender. Bold and brilliant.

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Laluz (+971 4 359 7777 laluzrestaurant.com) in the Four Seasons DIFC features a Catalonianinspired menu from Alain Devahive.

The Barcelona-born chef spent a decade working as Ferran Adrià’s righthand man at elBulli, further honing his craft in elBullitaller – the foodresearch laboratory set up by Adrià – and developing his own culinary techniques. The almost entirely Spanish-speaking staff will happily provide recommendations – but be sure to try the beef carpaccio with foie gras and truffle vinaigrette, and the Spanish baby lamb ribs.

Celebrated Singaporean chef Reif Othman brings a fresh, ultra-luxurious approach to the chef's table with The Experience by Reif Othman (+971 4 501 8888). Located above his award-winning Play restaurant at the H Hotel Dubai and limited to just 12 diners, guests are presented with a handwritten, bespoke menu cooked and served by the chef himself. The real fun begins as he comes up with innovative dishes on the spot, feeding you all manner of gastronomic delights.

For a quick and casual meal, you can’t look past a pizza. And Dubai has plenty of places serving up crisp crusts and superlative sourdough bases, with nary a pineapple in sight.

You’ll find two of our favourite spots for a superb slice within malls. First up is Eataly (800 328 259, eataly.ae), an authentic, bustling homage to all things Italian (edible, at least) on the lower ground floor of The Dubai Mall. Its simple margherita is so good, the tomato sauce so rich and flavoursome, you may well forgo fancy toppings for evermore. Over at The Galleria Mall, there’s Taste of Italy

by Heinz Beck (+971 4 343 8292, tasteofitalybyheinzbeck.com) – he of the three-Michelin-starred La Pergola in Rome – which serves up the most incredibly light bases, best topped with rocket and full-flavoured mushrooms.

fabulous frenCh For decades Le Cirque was New York’s go-to spot for A-list celebrities and real estate tycoons (including a certain Mr Trump). Now at the Ritz-Carlton DIFC, Le Cirque Dubai (+971 4 372 2444, ritzcarlton.com) offers up the same tried, tested and beloved mix of the finest French and Italian classics.

On the menu are Le Cirque signatures including lobster risotto and crème brulee, alongside new creations, such as the roasted lamb rack with seasonal vegetables and pommes puree, and homemade cappeletti stuffed with crab.

Regardless of the quality of the food they serve up, it’s often difficult for Dubai’s many hotel-run restaurants

Where To Eat

to shake off that hotel-restaurant vibe they exude. So it’s to places like Bistrot Bagatelle (+971 4 354 5035, bagatelledubai.com) we locals go for a hefty side of atmosphere to enjoy with our fabulous food at weekends.

Let your waiter guide you to the menu highlights here, which include sharing dishes like to-die-for black truffle pizza and spicy lobster linguini. You’ll find it inside the Fairmont Dubai.

Over at Dubai Marina, the more casual Bistro Des Arts (+971 4 551 576, bistrodesarts.ae) serves up fantastic examples of brasserie staples like beef bourguignon, steak frites and rabbit ragout. It’s also open for breakfast.

CARIbbeAN QueeNs Different to almost anywhere else in Dubai, Miss Lily’s (+971 4 354 4074, misslilys.com) brings a true taste of the Caribbean to these shores in the form of authentic Jamaican dishes.

Hailing from New York, this is the first international Miss Lily’s outpost, and it’s something of a gem. Vibrant, fun and characterful, the self-styled ‘beach shack-meets-Jamaican diner’ boasts a number of must-try dishes including jerk corn grilled with toasted coconut, hot pepper prawns and a brilliant king crab with scotchbonnet sauce. Head here for sure.

Ting Irie (+971 4 557 5601 tingirie. com) at Downtown Boulevard offers up Jamaican staples courtesy of executive chef Craig Wong (of Jamaican-Chinese heritage), who has a CV boasting stints at multi-Michelin-starred restaurants Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Heston Blumental’s Fat Duck.

WIDeR (AND WoNDeRful) ARAbIC While Emirati food may be thin on the ground, wider Arabic certainly isn’t. Famed Lebanese import Em Sherif (+971 4 424 3000, emsherif. com), which you’ll find at ground level of The Address Downtown Dubai, offers superb views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain to

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add to a fixed-price dinner menu (Dhs320), which sees hot and cold mezzes, mains of tender, charcoalgrilled meats, and desserts arrive at your table in a near-endless flow.

Ayamna (+971 4 426 1166, atlantis thepalm.com) is another top choice for Lebanese food in a classy setting.

Interiors are opulent and airy, with a grand staircase, beautiful black and white tiles and an open kitchen, while the menu includes both traditional and more contemporary dishes such as shrimp kunafa – delicious za’atarmarinated prawns wrapped in kunafa dough – and a rich date pudding with salted-caramel sauce.

Also a hit with Dubai’s sizeable Lebanese community is Al Falamanki (alfalamanki.com), an outpost of one of Beirut’s most famous restaurants.

Like the original, this sprawling Jumeirah Beach Road branch features indoor and outdoor areas, homely décor and a soft soundtrack of oldschool Arab music. On the menu are hot and cold mezze, salads, grills and manakeesh, along with a selection of shisha. The done thing here is to order a load of dishes to share and settle in for a game of backgammon.

Meanwhile, Olea (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates prides itself on authentic cuisine, thanks to its 14-strong team of chefs from Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Palestine.

The relaxed space features a lovely outdoor terrace and menu highlights include the lamb kofta, served on a 1.5m-long skewer. It's a great place to head early evening, once you've shopped up a storm next door.

For an atmospheric Arabian Desert experience, head to Al Hadheerah (+971 4 809 6194, meydanhotels. com) at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort and Spa, about 30 minutes’ drive from Downtown Dubai. Designed like an oasis town, guests at the open-air restaurant are entertained under the stars by falconry displays, camel rides, belly dancers, musicians and a spinning tanoura dancer. There’s also an impressive buffet overflowing with hot and cold mezze.

DXB City Expert

Ask A Top Chef Scott Price Folly Tucked away in the Majestic Hotel in Bur Dubai, there’s a Greek restaurant called Elia (+971 4 359 8888, dubaimajestic.com).

It’s charming, with whitewashed walls and traditional Greek food.

feeling like a VIP that’s Kilban’s marhaba effect The difference is the staff. So caring.

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Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport something to look forward to.

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meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service

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Where To Eat

a TruE TaSTE oF ThE EMiraTES Considering all the many colourful cuisines Dubai has to offer, it might come as a surprise that good Emirati food is not so easy to come by.

However, slowly but surely more and more authentic Emirati restaurants are cropping up across town.

An enduring favourite is Al Fanar (+971 4 232 9966, alfanarrestaurant.com), located along Canal Walk in Dubai Festival City Mall. You can dine outside on floor cushions in the traditional Majlis or at a table in the central courtyard area, which looks like a traditional Emirati home. The food is fresh and hearty with dishes such as chicken machboos, grilled shaari fish and jesheed (baby shark with onions and punchy spices).

Another place that has started to pull in its fair share of local Emiratis (always a good sign) is Al Barza (+971 4 343 5310) on Jumeirah Beach Road. The setting is a modern take on the traditional architecture of the region, but the food is undeniably authentic – here you can try camel meat, which is at its best in a burger.

Camel’s also on the menu at Aseelah (+971 4 205 7333, radissonblu.com/hoteldubaideiracreek) in the Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek. In addition to traditional staples (like samak, a local fish in gravy served with date rice) are dishes made using local ingredients (including camel stew and Arabian lobster).

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers interactive ‘cultural meals’ – so named because guests are encouraged to ask questions on anything that relates to the Emirati culture – prepared by local chefs in order to preserve the traditions and customs of the Bedouin culture.

Until June 22 you can head here with all the family for iftar. Enjoy Emirati dishes while your kids are entertained by storytelling, arts and crafts and live falconry. ===

DXB City Expert Marcos's Authentic Italian Kitchen

For SoME FaMily Fun As mentioned elsewhere, The Beach at JBR is a great place to head for a relaxed family dinner. But there are plenty of other places worthy of your attention, too, particularly if your kids are that little bit older.

Famed NYC restaurant, The Black Tap (+971 4 422 9904, jumeirah), is a recent opening at Jumeirah Al Naseem. Helmed by Michelin-starred chef Joe Isidori, the New York original has a cult following with customers known to queue for hours to try one of their monster milkshakes. The Dubai outpost features industrialchic interiors and an outdoor terrace overlooking the waters of the hotel’s Turtle Lagoon. The hip vibe extends to the menu, which features arteryunfriendly American classics, such as 14 different kinds of burger, spicy Korean BBQ chicken wings, tacos and milkshakes piled high with toppings like chocolate brownies and cotton candy.

If you tend to take an age deciding what to order, then Burger & Lobster (+971 4 514 8838, burgerandlobster. com) at Burj Daman Building in the DIFC is for you. Here, you essentially have three choices: burger, lobster roll, or whole lobster (steamed or grilled). Despite the brevity of options, it’s actually difficult to choose as all three are top-notch,

but a new menu will help you decide. From it, The Seven Samurai – wonderfully succulent chunks of lobster tossed in Asian spices and a secret-recipe mayo – is an incredibly good lobster roll, while the whole lobster easily betters those served at many a fine-dining venue, particularly if you have it steamed instead of grilled. It’s also great fun to don a bib and get to work with your claw-cracker.

They’ve been known to queue out of the door to snag a table at Slider Station (600 544 005, sliderstation. com) in The Galleria Mall, which proudly claims to be the world’s first conveyor-belt burger joint. It’s much more than that, offering a fun American tapas menu (the likes of sticky red-onion rings and Coca-Colabraised short ribs) to complement décor based on a 1940s American gas station. Grab a gourmet slider from its unique, if small, conveyor belt – we recommend the so-called Dangerous, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken, jalapeno and chimichurri aioli.

The kids will also love Walnut Grove (+971 4 344 4441) at City Walk, where in addition to choosing from a fine and varied menu, they’ll be given dough to roll their own cookies, which the restaurant kitchen will then cook for them. Mums and dads will find equal favour with the pizzas, burgers and salads.

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert Pyramids at Wafi

DinE aT ThE pyraMiDS Does Dubai have its own pyramids?

Of course it does. Housed in a striking pyramid-shaped building and styled with an opulent Egyptian theme – sphinx statues, pharaoh sculptures and columns with hieroglyphics – you can’t miss the brilliant Pyramids at Wafi (pyramidsrestaurantsatwafi.com, +971 4 324 4100,). It’s home to eight restaurants, serving a mix of fine-dining and casual cuisine ranging from Italian to Thai, Spanish and Indian. Still going strong after 15 years, Asha’s (+971 4 324 4100) offers traditional North West Indian cuisines with go-to dishes such as spicy dhaniya murg (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and cashew nut sauce), tandoori lobster and lamb rogan josh. If you’d prefer to take your taste

buds on a Mediterranean excursion, Seville’s (+971 4 324 4777) has a wide range of hot and cold tapas, paellas and regional specialties such as glazed lamb shank with Catalan mash and pulpo a la brasa (fire-roasted octopus) by Spanish chef Mariano Andres.

The decadent gnocci at Marco's Authentic Italian Kitchen (+971 4 324 4100) puts up a fine argument for being the best in the city, while the ever wonderful Vintage Wine Bar (+971 4 324 4100) can now be classed as a Dubai institution, having served up a winning selection of wine, cheese and cold cuts for well over a decade. Come here on Sunday or Monday nights between 7-10pm and indulge in cheese fondue with unlimited sommelier's choice of wine for a bargain Dhs145 per person.

Where To Eat

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claSSic coMForT FooD If you’re after a casual meal, Dubai’s bars and pubs offer a deluge of delicious light bites. Overlooking Dubai Water Canal, Bridgewater Tavern (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com) at JW Marriott Marquis is the latest go-to place to enjoy high quality, filling fare. The fire-cracker calamari and parmesan truffle fries are both willing bedfellows with an ice cold brew, while the 'one badass burger' lives up to its name.

A cut above is Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar (+971 4 567 8304, dubai-palm.anantara.com), where prime slabs of succulent Aussie meat are the norm, including the likes of emu and kangaroo. To order either, however, you’ll be faced with the near-impossible task of forgoing the classic beef and mushroom pie, as good a pie as you’ll ever tuck into.

The recently reworked menu at Souk Madinat Jumeirah’s Left Bank (+971 4 368 6171, emiratesleisureretail.com) is reason enough to head here, but you’ll also love its water’s-edge setting and often lively atmosphere. Of the new light bites, try the organic Cumberlandveal Scotch eggs.

Taking you from an early breakfast right through to the wee small hours, Fibber Magee’s (+971 4 332 2400, fibbersdubai.com) does proper pub grub with a menu chock-full of neverfail favourites: steak and mushroom pie, Irish stew and that all-important supersized burger. You’ll find the affectionately named ‘Fibbers’ in Saeed Tower One on Sheikh Zayed Road. for ribs, crisp squid, fried chicken and some of the best burgers in town.

Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar

DXB City Expert

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

aSk a Top chEF Andy Toh Chye Siong, Hakkasan Gastronomically, Dubai has become very dynamic with new openings every month.

I find myself re-visiting Thai origin restaurants, a style of cuisine that is very close to my heart. Lemongrass (lemongrassrestaurants.com) and Pai Thai (+971 4 432 3232, jumeirah.com) are my favourites.

hEaD To piEr 7 It’s a pier; it has seven floors. That’s the reason for its name covered off. But what’s of real note here is that each floor is devoted to a different-style restaurant. It’s also the only licensed premises on Marina Walk in Dubai Marina. And so to the good stuff…

The Scene (+971 422 2328, thescenedubai.com) by TV chef and serial author Simon Rimmer is the frontrunner here. British-style comfort food is the gist of it – think succulent, deep-filled pies, feather-light battered fish and chunky chips – but if you want something less filling, the grilled halloumi, pear and salted-hazelnut salad is delicious, too.

No prizes for guessing the cuisine cooked up at the excellent Asia Asia (+971 4 276 5900, asia-asia.com), but there might be a prize if you can find a dish, anywhere, that tickles your taste buds as much as its tigerprawn Kerala masala.

And if you want a side order of animated atmosphere with your mains of slow-cooked prime-beef back ribs, head to Cargo (+971 4 361 8129, cargo-dubai.com).

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Where To Eat

DinE aT ThE BEach

Top TapaS With an open kitchen, funky murals and baskets hanging from its high ceilings, Salero Tapas & Bodega (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates looks more hipster eatery than traditional tapas joint. However, the Spanish staff, led by head chef Oscar Leon, ensure the no-nonsense, garlicsmothered tapas are entirely authentic.

There’s a great selection of hot and cold tapas such as Galician-style octopus, along with three types of paella and a separate kids’ menu. The vibe is relaxed and casual, with flamenco on Wednesdays from 8pm.

Casa de Tapas (+971 4 416 1800, casadetapas.ae) at Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club has lovely views over the Creek and a large upside-down lemon tree sprouting from the ceiling.

The menu is packed with classics, including Spanish omelette and garlicky steamed clams, along with more inventive dishes such as paella de fideua (made with angel-hair pasta, squid ink and prawns) – reportedly the only place in Dubai where this delicacy is served.

BOCA (+971 4 323 1833, boca.ae) in DIFC, meanwhile, strays from Spain to include sharing plates from Italy and France on its menu, too. From Med staples such as sweet Padrón peppers and grilled sardines to 12-hour braised lamb and lobster ravioli, dishes are served as they’re ready, making for a relaxed, grazing-style meal. The menu also has a raw section with carpaccios, crudos and tartars, along with a 22-strong list of grape available by the glass. Choose a spot at the buzzing bar or outdoor terrace, or head down to the cellar for a food and grape pairing experience hosted by the sommelier.

The Beach at JBR – a brilliant pedestrianised area mere metres from the sand and sea – is the perfect place to head for a good-value feed with your family in tow. Your best bet is to simply stroll the length of it, stopping to peruse the menus at places that catch your eye – there are myriad cuisines to choose from. But were you to twist our arm, we’d heartily recommend the following.

Helmed by Tom Aikens, who remains the youngest UK chef to have scooped two Michelin stars, the concept at Pots, Pans & Boards (+971 4 456 1959, thebeach.ae) is sharing dishes – make sure you get the lion’s share of the lobster mac and cheese – which you’ll enjoy in a relaxed, informal (even the chairs are mismatched) vibe.

Almaz by Momo (+971 4 551 6247, momoresto.com) is one place that will definitely catch your eye. Here you can look out to the sparkling sea while enjoying your pick from a menu of North African and Levant-inspired dishes. Think piping-hot tagines, slowcooked meats and grilled fish.

Breathing in the sea air may well put you in the mood for the ocean’s finest catches. If so, crack open a crab at Aprons & Hammers (+971 4 456 7888, apronsandhammers.com). Crab and shrimp are served by the bucketful here – along with a dollop of family fun – as diners have to work for their meal by crushing crustaceans with hinged crackers and (you guessed it) hammers. There’s a second restaurant aboard an atmospheric Arabic dhow in Dubai Marina, too.

Also down by the beach is the Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Resort, in which you’ll find the brilliant BiCE Ristorante (+971 4 399 1111, 3.hilton. com). For many a year this has ranked high among the best Italian restaurants in Dubai, with sublime examples of regional specialities cooked to exacting standards. It’s open for lunch and dinner, and won’t disappoint.

DXB City Expert

iT'S all grEEk To ME If you’re hankering for some Hellenic flavours, you’ll be pleased to learn that, while Dubai is not exactly overflowing with Greek restaurants, it does boast some truly excellent ones.

In-the-know locals will point you towards Elia (+971 4 359 8888, dubaimajestic.com), a cosy restaurant with a lovely glass terrace surrounded by greenery in the somewhat incongruous setting of the Majestic Hotel in bustling Bur Dubai.

In the kitchen is Cretan head chef Poppy Kourkoutaki, while charming restaurant manager (and fellow Crete local) Margianna Mavridou heads up the front-of-house team. The menu is divided into Greek classics – the cheese saganaki and chicken souvlaki are standouts – and more contemporary interpretations such as slow-cooked veal cheeks with eggplant purée. Don’t leave without trying the freshly baked carob bread.

From the same team, Mythos Kouzina & Grill (+971 4 399 8166, mythoskouzina.com) feels like a little slice of Santorini hidden away in JLT’s Armada Bay Hotel. Kitted out like a traditional seaside taverna with whitewashed walls, rustic furniture and light-blue banquettes, the simple menu is a mix of traditional dishes such as keftedakia (meatballs) and grilled calamari, together with homestyle favourites like moussaka and gigandes (butter beans). The word is out about this well-priced gem, so be sure to book ahead.

Down at The Beach at JBR, Eat Greek Kouzina (+971 4 430 5249, eatgreekkouzina.com) has a more urban feel with distressed-wood floors, exposed brickwork and a beautiful sea view. The large menu has all the classics, including salads, hot and cold appetisers, gyros and souvlakistuffed pittas, as well as mixed grills, seafood, fish, lamb and even burgers.

It’s open for breakfast from 8.30am, and there’s a second branch in the Mall of the Emirates, too.

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

BOCA

Where To Eat

Bombay Brasserie

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DXB City Expert

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Where To Eat

nicE anD Spicy Tong Thai (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, meanwhile, showcases unique regional dishes alongside street-food favourites and authentic yet inventive classics. Regularly voted the best Thai restaurant in the city, signature curries like creamy panang kung with tiger prawns and gai phad ka-prao with chilli and hot basil pack plenty of depth and flavour, while classics like tom yum and pad see-eiw have been honed to perfection. The dining room itself is a glorious riot of red and orange hues, with glittering lanterns suspended from above and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Business Bay, albeit only from the fourth floor.

An offshoot of its New York-based, Michelin star-toting sibling, Junoon (+971 4 405 2717, junoonrestaurants. com) at Shangri-La Dubai is a standout example of how, when it’s done as well as this, there are few finer cuisines than Indian as far as robust flavour combinations go. Let your waiter guide you through the musthaves (there are many) but have stern words if he fails to mention the shahi lamb shank – as tender a meat as you’ll ever try, it comes, teased from the bone at your table, with a beautifully balanced black cumin and rose curry.

You’ll also adore the macchi masala: pan-roasted, flake-at-the-touch-ofa-fork artic char that’s coated in a wonderfully flavoured green chilli and coriander marinade.

If there’s a sure thing in the restaurant industry it’s that an Indian restaurant operated by Taj Hotels is going to be good, if not very good.

Falling very much into the latter category, Bombay Brasserie (+971 4 438 3100, tajhotels.com) sees chef de cuisine Ajay Negi conjure up flavours as vibrant as the restaurant’s interiors.

The dum ki suneharl (slow-cooked lamb shank and saffron) and beautifully flavoured paneer are noteworthy highlights to be savoured. Bag the right table and you’ll also take in the sight of The Dubai Fountain.

DXB City Expert

Carnival By Tresind

Universally loved by local gastronomes, Tresind (+971 4 308 0440, tresind.com) at Nassima Royal Hotel offers one of the city’s most accomplished takes on Indian molecular gastronomy. Head chef Himanshu Saini ensures each and every dish not only tastes amazing, but looks and smells spectacular too, with dinner here more akin to a theatre performance than a meal.

Highly recommended is the chef’s tasting menu, while the lunch set menu is amazing value at Dhs99 per head (available Sunday to Thursday).

Over in DIFC, Carnival by Tresind (+971 4 4218 665, carnivalbytresind.com) is the even wackier sister restaurant that’s just as wildly popular. Expect vibrant interiors and a toy merry-go-round in the centre of each table, alongside intriguing dishes such as pink pani puri and beetroot gol gappa.

Big, BEauTiFul BurgErS Brilliant burgers aren’t confined to the menus of Dubai’s hotel-based restaurants. In fact, the city’s best burgers are served in standalone venues. This is certainly true of Burger Fuel (+971 4 445 8220, burgerfuel. com), which has various branches across the city – the best of which, due to it being beside the sea, is at The Walk, JBR. The concept is 100% New Zealand grass-fed beef, 150g of which is chargrilled to perfection and placed within a wholemeal bun.

Thereafter, you can pick multiple extras to stuff inside.

The emphasis at Burger Joint New York (+971 4 344 4459, burgerjointny.com), which you’ll find at City Walk, is on quality alone, with the options limited to just hamburgers and cheeseburgers. Their meat is minced on the premises to ensure consistency of flavour.

Where To Eat

The meat is also minced on-site at Big Smoke Burger (+971 4 343 6533, bigsmokeburger.com), prior to which it is flown in from Canada (the brand’s home) to ensure consistency – and quality – of flavour. It’s no surprise that the signature Big Smoke Burger is the popular choice here; one bite and you’ll know why. You’ll find the UAE’s only branch at BoxPark, Al Wasl Road.

Moylo’s (+971 4 388 3140, moylosburgers.com) is a home-grown, hole-in-the-wall joint on Jumeirah Beach Road, just down from Sunset Mall. Quirky and colourful with an industrial edge, it features a wire counter covered in padlocks that have been customised by patrons (including one by Dubai’s Crown Prince, Sheikh Hamdan). There are five burgers to choose from, including the Truffle Shuffle with 100% Wagyu beef and home-made truffle mayo. Scrumptious.

Although serving much more than burgers, South African chain The Meat Co. (+971 4 368 6040, themeatco. com) does a mean cheeseburger, and the setting of its Souk Madinat

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DXB City Expert

Jumeirah branch – aside the water with a full view of Burj Al Arab – really takes some beating.

DuBai’S anSwEr To STrEET FooD With gourmet food trucks rolling out across Dubai at an astonishing rate, there’s bound to be at least one on the tarmac (or sand) near you. A dozen or so of the city’s best roll up at Emirates Golf Club every Saturday from 4pm to 11pm for the #FoodTruckJam (truckers.ae). Entry is free and you can enjoy cheap, tasty and filling morsels from the likes of Moti Roti, GObai, Calle Tacos and Yumtingz, while listening to live music on the grass. Alcohol is available, too.

The hugely popular Salt (instagram. com/findsalt) has a silver Airstream parked permanently at Kite Beach alongside an air-conditioned, glasswalled terrace, and serves just three types of gourmet sliders packed with flavour. There’s also a mobile truck that pops up at Dubai’s coolest events – follow it on Instagram to get the

grapE EXpEcTaTionS Alcohol is only served in restaurants based within licensed premises, which basically means hotels.

A handful of exceptions include restaurants based at DIFC. Where sold, you’ll likely find wine expensive.

exact location while you’re in town.

Along Jumeirah Beach Road, and at the opposite end of Dubai’s dining spectrum in terms of glitz, is Bu Qtair (+971 55 705 2130), which has drawn a devoted following for more than two decades. While it’s been upgraded from its original beach shack to a simple restaurant in the nearby fishing harbour, it continues to attract crowds who queue for the freshest prawns and catch of the day, both of which are served with curry sauce, rice and bread.

And if you’re travelling along the E11 between Dubai and Abu Dhabi – perhaps on your way to visit the capital – be sure to pull into the Last Exit (+971 4 317 3999, lastexit.ae) for a tasty pit stop. It’s home to 12 vintage Airstreams offering a drivethru service, including Big Smoke Burger, Poco Loco, Operation Falafel, The Hot Dog Stand and Starbucks, along with kids’ play areas, washrooms and prayer rooms. A great concept.

So you can Say you’vE BEEn ThErE

At.mosphere

You’ll need to book ahead to dine at the world’s highest restaurant, which spans much of level 122 of Burj Khalifa, but you’ll be glad you’ve done so. You arrive at At.mosphere (+971 4 888 3828, atmosphereburjkhalifa. com) via the world’s fastest elevator, before settling down in the swankiest of settings to enjoy the finest cuts of meat and fish to grace a menu.

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Where To Eat

Dining aT DiFc You may want to check in with your bank manager before heading to DIFC for dinner (especially with the whole family), but the reward for blowing your budget will be a truly memorable meal.

Within the DIFC is Gate Village, where amid the high-end galleries and auction houses are some of Dubai’s – and the world’s – best restaurants.

Ranked at number 89 in Restaurant Magazine’s 2016 list of the world’s best restaurants was the ever-popular Zuma (+971 4 425 5560, zumarestaurant. com), where the outstanding Japanese food is best ordered to share. In fact, what always works well here is to ask your waiter to order for you. New-tothe-menu dishes that you’ll want to try, courtesy of new executive chef Pawel Kazanowski and a hint of influence from CEO and founder Rainer Becker, include a sublime thinly sliced chutoro tuna with chilli, coriander, and sesame.

Taking the number-99 slot on the same prestigious list was La Petite Maison (+971 4 439 0505, lpmlondon. co.uk/dubai). It uses produce from local UAE farms in a number of its fabulous creations, all of which have their roots in French-Mediterranean cooking.

Dishes like the burrata with basil and tomatoes and the salt-baked sea bass are legendary among Dubai gourmands.

Within DIFC’s Al Fattan Currency House you’ll find the always-excellent R Trader (+971 4 343 5518), where menu options are split into four and categorised as ‘raw’, ‘sea’, ‘birds and beasts’, or ‘land’. There are some exceptional dishes in each, not least the poached langoustine backed by truffle and foie gras, and the melt-inyour-mouth braised beef cheek.

The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri (+971 4 338 8133, theartisan.ae) in Burj Daman Building is a little hidden away but you’ll be glad you’ve found it.

Originating in Florence, the thricestarred Enoteca Pinchiorri was founded by sommelier Giorgio Pinchiorri and self-taught (French) executive chef Annie Féolde. The Dubai outpost is a more relaxed version of Italian fine dining, with an emphasis on amazing,

DXB City Expert

Zuma

authentic ingredients (the restaurant even has its own brand of Parmesan and olive oil). Overseen by head chef Luca Tresoldi, who has worked in Florence under Féolde for the last five years, signature dishes like octopus slow-cooked in home-made olive oil and tuffoli pasta with veal-shank stew are stunning examples of just how beautiful and delicate Italian food can be when done to this high standard.

SuBliME SuShi anD SaShiMi Beyond the elsewhere-mentioned Zuma and Nobu, Dubai is home to a couple more standout Japanese

restaurants. One of them, Armani/Hashi (+ 971 4 888 3888, armanihotels.com) is housed in the Armani Hotel Dubai, within Burj Khalifa. You’d be hard pushed to find anywhere selling seafood as good as that served here.

Another, TOMO (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae) at Raffles Dubai, is helmed by chef-owner Chitoshi Takaashi, who has devised a menu that’s vast and packed with fantastic authentic Japanese delicacies, best navigated with the help of a waiter.

The terrace here bestows brilliant views of Burj Khalifa, too.

Ex-Zuma chef Reif Othman’s Play (+971 4 225 6000, h-hotel.com) at

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Jebel Ali Palm > Palm > 2014AliEmirates ©CopyrightJebel PLEASE NOTE This illustration of Dubai is not drawn to scale and bears no accurate perspective to anything. Illustrated by Russ North ©Copyright 2014 Emirates

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Where To Eat

The H Hotel was an instant hit when it opened at the outset of 2016. Playfully (naturally) described as ‘Mediterrasian’ – a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian flavours – the twists on classic dishes here are a real delight. Be sure to order the duck gyoza and takumi Wagyu ribs – both of which are divine. The alwaysbuzzing bar and DJ mean the atmosphere at dinner is as spirited as the menu, although the restaurant area can get uncomfortably smoky.

Famed London export Novikov (+971 4 3 888 8744, novikov-dubai. com) at the Sheraton Grand Hotel is another ultra-glamorous spot, with a sleek, dimly lit dining space, resident

Sumosan

44

DJs and a vast – and very impressive – Asian menu. Fronting the open kitchen is a market counter displaying fresh fish and seafood flown in every second day from Portugal and Japan, including interesting delicacies like goose barnacles and sea urchins. The skill of ex-Nobu head chef Shane Macneill is evident throughout – highlights include the king crab-leg and wasabi gratin, scallop and black-truffle sashimi, and the signature duck salad.

Founded in Moscow, famed in London and now delighting diners in Dubai is Sumosan (+971 56 678 3357, sumosan.com), which serves up Japanese food of the highest calibre

DXB City Expert

to the showy crowd at Billionaire Mansion. You’ll find it within the Taj Dubai hotel.

Cheaper than the lot – though still of high quality – is Manga Sushi (+971 4 342 8300, mangasushi.ae) at Beach Park Plaza in Jumeirah 2. As its name more than hints at, this is a restaurant that’s designed manga-style, right down to the waitresses’ uniforms. The fun extends to the very inventive sushi creations, including Godzilla in Dubai: deep-fried wasabi prawn, asparagus and diced mango, dipped in wasabi mayonnaise and rolled in sesame seeds. You’ll also find a branch of Manga Sushi in The Dubai Mall.

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Novikov

iF you Book juST onE placE whilE you’rE hErE ThiS MonTh, MakE iT...

Le Cirque Dubai, Ritz-Carlton DIFC (+971 4 372 2444, ritzcarlton.com) It's not long open in Dubai, and probably won't hit full stride until after Ramadan when its first-class entertainment roster restarts, but it's already clear as crystal why the original Le Cirque in New York was so celebrated. The menu here contains just the right number of dishes to suggest that each has been honed to perfection – the subsequent taste test confirms it.

A superb lobster risotto will soon be classed among Dubai's 'must-try' dishes, while soft-as-butter dover sole and a chocolate soufflé so light it could float from your table are notable highlights.

You'll also find the staff friendly, knowledgeable, and on the right side of fully attentive.

hEavEnly high TEa From traditional afternoon tea to more contemporary offerings, Dubai upholds this very British custom with more than a fair degree of flair.

From traditional afternoon tea to more contemporary offerings, Dubai upholds this very British custom with more than a fair degree of flair. You can happily stretch the ceremony out as long as you like in the beautiful surrounds of Taj Dubai’s Byzantium Lounge (+971 4 438 3100, tajhotels. com), which features dramatic gold peacock panels and rich fuchsia furnishings. Served daily from 3pm to 6pm, the fine-china cake stands come piled high with classic English sandwiches, scones and cakes, as well

as Indian sweets and savoury snacks like samosas to complement your pot of tea. (Dhs215 for two people.)

If you’re after an alfresco experience, the Asian-inspired Lotus Lounge at Anantara The Palm Dubai (+971 4 567 8302, dubai-palm.anantara.com) has a large terrace overlooking the Arabian Gulf with views all the way to Atlantis, The Palm. Indulge in dainty sandwiches such as egg mayonnaise with caviar, and savoury bites like burrata with tomato focaccia, served on multi-tiered silver trays, followed by irresistible sweet treats – think blueberry cheesecake and warm scones served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. You

can indulge from Saturday to Thursday, 2pm-5pm, at Dhs145 per person or Dhs240 including unlimited bubbly. A must-do.

DinnEr wiTh an incrEDiBlE viEw Just off a jetty that juts out into the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf, on the westernmost tip of Palm Jumeirah, lies 101 Dining Lounge and Bar (+971 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com) at One&Only The Palm Dubai. From here you get to drink in picture-perfect views of Dubai Marina and Burj Al Arab while enjoying superb contemporary European fare from a menu that has been rubberstamped by French super-chef Yannick Alléno – including the softest squid we’ve

Celebrate the holy month of Ramadan with sumptuous buffet dining.

Choose from an array of Middle Eastern and international specialties.

Unwind to the dulcet tones of our kanoun player.

AED 185 per person AED 90 per child (aged 6-12 years)

Inclusive of Ramadan juices and water

For every party of 10 guests, one person dines with our compliments.

Every day during Ramadan from sunset to 10.30 pm

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT P.O. BOX 71607, EAST CRESCENT, PALM JUMEIRAH, DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES T +971 4 567 8304 • F +971 4 567 8009 • E restaurants.dubai@anantara.com

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

Katana

fusion of Japanese and Peruvian food – great cocktails, too – and Ibn Albahr (+971 4 5539575, ibnalbahr. me), where you can enjoy fabulously fresh fish and succulent lobster.

With cracking views over Madinat Jumeriah, Folly (+971 4 430 8535, folly. ae) is the new concept from Nick & Scott, two longtime Dubai-based chefs with rich pedigree – including a combined eight years at Gordon Ramsay Holdings.

Sharing plates of modern European dishes is the concept here and while Folly is still very much in its infancy, it’s already rubbing shoulders with the city's top tables. The cooking is precise, the flavours impactful, and what they can do with a mere mushroom and plain old radish needs to be tasted to be believed.

dine downtown

ever tasted. The whole experience can be heightened by catching a boat to the restaurant from sister hotel One&Only Royal Mirage. Booking is essential, as is a pre-boarding drink in the beautiful Jetty Lounge.

Nothing tops the view of Burj Khalifa that’s served up – along with incredibly good food – at Katana (+971 4 277 8808, katana-dubai.com). Hailing from LA’s sunset strip, Katana specialises in the robatayaki style of authentic Japanese cuisine, whereby bambooskewered gourmet fish, meat and vegetables are grilled over a charcoalinduced open flame. It’s fabulous.

Overlooking the ocean with fine views of Burj Al Arab, Shimmers (+971 4 4323232, jumeirah.com) has long

been a go-to spot for locals and expats looking to wow visitors. Recently relaunched with a menu of home-style Mediterranean favourites from Greek chef Yiannis Katsikas, dishes include tender chargrilled octopus, slowroasted beetroot salad and zucchini kefta. The causal, toes-in-the-sand atmosphere is perfectly suited to long, lazy lunches and dinners accompanied by a side order of gentle sea breeze.

Over on Palm Jumeirah is Club Vista Mare, a Dhs120 million beachfront dining and leisure complex where you can take your pick from seven unique restaurants, all set directly on the beach with views of one of the city’s most famous landmarks.

Top spots here include Aji (+971 4 552 0244, aji.ae), which serves up a superb

In addition to The Beach, Downtown Dubai is one of the few areas in the city where you can walk along the street or, in this case, wide boulevards lined by trees and lit by tiny, twinkling lights at night. You’ll pass an array of goodvalue independent restaurants as you saunter past the skyscrapers, serving up everything from gourmet burgers and American classics at Ashton Kutcherowned Ketchup (+971 4 363 8595, ketchup.ae) to signature dishes like tea-smoked salmon and braised beef short ribs at the Pan-Asian Karma Kafé (+971 4 423 0909, karmakafe.com) in Souk Al Bahar.

If you’re on the hunt for a meal you’ll remember long after your flight home, it has to be La Serre Bistro (+971 4 428 6969, laserre.ae), located within the Vida Downtown Dubai. With great service, even better food and an atmosphere rarely bettered anywhere else in the city, this is another place where you should let the waiter order for you – just hope they mention the tagliatelle with prawns and duck.

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Succulent Steak Most high-end hotels in Dubai are endowed with a high-end steakhouse offering premium beef staples like Wagyu that are far from cheap. But budget aside, there are some brilliant steaks to be had in this city.

Heading up our list of top tables is Prime68 (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, which is a cut above (pun intended).

The premium beef here is sourced from choice suppliers across the globe and tastes superb, matched by the views from the 68th floor. Accompaniments such as black-truffle butter add a little extra oomph, while add-ons like lobster tail and crab cake are an indulgent treat.

In the same bracket is J&G Steakhouse (+971 4 435 5577, stregisdubai.com) at The St. Regis Dubai. Managing to marry masculinity to elegance, the setting here is just about perfect for you to savour fabulously high-quality cuts of meat (as well as seafood and raw bar selections).

In fact, such is the restaurant’s quest for perfection that nothing is left to chance – so much so that exclusive cattle are raised only for this restaurant (yes, you did read that right). It’s listed as Queensland AACO Beef on the menu, and tastes superb.

West 14th (+971 4 447 7601, west14th.ae) at Dukes Dubai on Palm Jumeirah has long been a favourite with local expats. Good value fine cuts of the most succulent meats – from USDA Prime through to Australian Wagyu – and a similarly enticing drinks menu means this place is always buzzing.

Opened in 1995, JW’s Steakhouse (+971 4 607 7977, marriottdiningatjw. ae) is a Dubai institution, and rightly so.

Chef Mohammad Iqbal has been in the kitchen from day one and knows each of his (many) regulars’ preferences by heart. It’s so popular that every table is adorned with brass plaques featuring the names of former diners.

With wood panelling, overstuffed armchairs, a long mahogany bar and Frank Sinatra tunes as your soundtrack, the styling of this classy steakhouse

DXB City Expert

West 14th

sets the tone. The menu features the finest cuts cooked to perfection, while seafood lovers can choose the like of Maine lobsters straight from the tank.

FaSt, Filling noodleS (and a bit more beSideS) The Noodle House (+971 4 366 6730, thenoodlehouse.com) is a real home-grown success story, and the go-to place for steaming-hot bowls of fragrantly spiced pad thai and myriad other dishes inspired by the street foods of Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok and Jakarta. The dishes are never-fail and good value to boot, which makes it a great option for families – it even has a funky kids’ menu, comprising the likes of wok-fried satay-chicken noodles.

You’ll find branches of The Noodle House across the city, including one

at Emirates Towers and another (the livlier of the two) at tourist hot spot Souk Madinat Jumeirah.

beSt oF britiSH At The Croft (+971 4 319 4794, thecroftdubai.com), top British chef Darren Velvick – a protégé of Gordon Ramsay – hoists the flag for modern British cooking by plating up by plating up succulent meats, heritage vegetables and crowd-pleasing puddings, with an emphasis on local and organic ingredients. Mains might include organic poached salmon with fennel and saffron hollandaise, or leek and cheddar croquettes with mash potato and mustard sauce. There’s a fine selection of craft hops too and a generous daily happy hour from 5-8pm.

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert BookMunch

incredible-value indian and PakiStani Since Indians and Pakistanis account for the biggest expat community in Dubai, it comes as little surprise that the city is awash with an abundance of Indian and Pakistani cuisine – much of it very cheap and delicious. That’s particularly true of Saravanaa Bhavan (+971 4 334 5252) in Karama, whose vegetable curries pack in brilliant flavour and cost an average Dhs15.

Also in Karama is Calicut Paragon (+971 4 449 8560, paragonrestaurant. net) – a favourite among the city’s Indian chefs, which serves curried Keralan seafood specialities – while Rangoli Vegetarian Restaurant (+971 4 351 5873, rangolirestaurants. com) in Meena Bazaar, Bur Dubai, serves food from the Gujarati

region of India (imagine platters upon platters of delicious thali, which just keep coming).

The Dubai institution that is Ravi Restaurant (+971 4 331 5353) in Satwa serves Pakistani-style curries, with highlights including chicken achar, keema fry and chicken methi.

All of these places are strictly no-frills, but when the curries are so good and such great value, who cares?

SomewHere SimPle witH young kidS Eating at your hotel can be expensive – especially if you have a whole family to feed – but fear not: Dubai has plenty of options for good-value, great-quality fare. Ideal for tiny tots is bookstoreslash-café BookMunch (+971 4 388 4006, bookmunchcafe.com) in Al Wasl

Square. It serves up tasty treats like blueberry pancakes and stocks plenty of children’s books, ensuring kids get food for thought as well as their bellies.

Bystro (+971 336 8056, bystrodubai. com) on Sheikh Zayed Road offers a special kids’ corner featuring miniature tables and chairs, as well as toys and books. The food will please kids and adults alike; choose from sandwiches, great breakfast options, weekend roasts and – intriguingly – dinosaur ribs.

Baker & Spice’s (+971 4 362 4686, bakerandspice.com) Marina Promenade location is arguably the pick of the chain’s four venues in the city – you can look out at the yachts in Dubai Marina while eating tasty home-style dishes, the ingredients for which are often drawn from local farms. There’s no dedicated kids’ menu here, but on offer are smaller portions of main dishes, including a fine spaghetti and meatballs.

Over at Italian restaurant Sapori Di Bice (+971 4 344 2550, saporidibice.com) on City Walk, kids get to create their own pizzas, with multiple fun-shaped bases on offer.

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat with your baby, try Pantry Café (+971 4 388 3868, pantrycafe.me) on Al Wasl Road. You’ll enjoy wholesome, locally sourced food, while your baby gets free veggie purée. With its prime seaside address, The Beach at JBR, and double-height dining space lined with bookshelves, Big Chefs (+971 4 551 5302, bigchefs.co) has a stylish yet homely feel. The huge menu has a huge number of dishes across a multitude of cuisines, along with a separate kids’ menu, so you’re bound to find something for even the fussiest of little eaters. Just be sure they leave room for dessert – the Oreo Nutella cheesecake is one they won’t want to share.

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Big Chefs

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DXB City Expert Coya

dining at tHe mall Follow the locals’ lead and head to one of Dubai’s famous shopping malls for a bite to eat in air-conditioned comfort (in-between bouts of retail therapy, of course). Alongside the food courts, many of the malls have excellent casual eateries, too. During Ramadan, these will be closed during daylight hours but most will open after sunset.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by The Dubai Mall, but when shopping fatigue kicks in, make a beeline for Circle Café (+971 4 338 0049, circle-cafe.com), on the ground floor next to The Waterfall, and you won’t be disappointed. Established in 2003 with an emphasis on fresh produce, this home-grown success story (there are now six cafés across the city) has an extensive menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner favourites, from an Arabic breakfast platter with halloumi za’atar and foul medames (fava beans) to superfood salad and peri-peri prawns.

Social House (+971 4 339 8640) is another crowd-pleaser, with an outdoor terrace overlooking The Dubai Fountain and a menu divided into flavours from East and West.

Choose from soups, sushi and salads, or more substantial meals like the excellent Thai green curry..

Meanwhile, Lafayette Gourmet (+971 4 345 5444, galerieslafayettedubai.com), a posh food hall on the second level of famed French department store Galeries Lafayette, has individual stations serving everything from Mediterranean salads to Moroccan tagines and caviar.

Spanning over 36,000 sq m, the third-floor extension of Mall of the Emirates houses some of its best casual restaurants. Leading the way is Taiwanese dumpling chain Din Tai Fung (+971 4 265 1288). The chicken xiao long bao (soup dumplings), redbean sticky-rice dessert and Chinese oolong tea – with free refills – are worth the inevitable wait.

Next to VOX Cinemas and hailing from New York, nearby Dean & Deluca (+971 4 419 0830, deandeluca.com) dishes up everything from American classics such as the Philly steak sandwich to Arabian staples like mourabian, a prawn stew in spicy tomato sauce served with rice.

The best place here, though, is Common Grounds (+971 50 478 1094, commongroundsdubai.com), which offers fabulous salads, the best prawn tacos this side of Mexico City, and a very healthy kids’ menu.

You can treat them with a delicious milkshake.

lovely latin american There is currently fierce competition in Dubai for the tag of the city’s best

Peruvian restaurant, and in the thick of it is Totora Cebicheria Peruana (+971 4 399 9666, totora.com) at Gate Village, DIFC. The fact that the kitchen staff – and ingredients – all hail from Peru shows through in dishes that delight. The spice-laden ceviches (ask for the De Barrio) burst with freshness and flavour, while the arroz con pato (a rice dish laced with succulent duck and coriander) is a not-to-be-missed main. Given that the waiting staff know their menu inside out, this is where your expert introduction to Peruvian food begins and ends.

While you’ll be right to love Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant. com) in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach (its Friday brunch, in particular, is fabulous), we also have a thing for the more casual Garden (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

The chef is Peruvian, the staff are great and the vibe relaxed.

Save room in your affections, too, for Inka (+971 4 346 9295, inkadubai. com) at Sofitel Dubai Downtown.

Its chilli-laced rocoto ceviche and chicken anticuchos are a bit special,

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The MAINE

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

cool caFeS Craving a good cup of coffee or slap-up breakfast? At City Walk, Jumeirah’s alfresco shopping and dining district, The Brass (+971 4 385 6971, thebrass. ae) features gorgeous golden interiors and an extensive menu of speciality brews such as lavender-honey lattes and Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom, along with pastries, cakes, salads, sandwiches and flatbreads.

A second branch has also opened at The Outlet Village in Jebel Ali. Like its New York State namesake, The Hamptons Café (+971 4 331 5118, hamptonsdubai.com) is a stylish locale that draws in a regular crowd of locals, expats and in-the-know visitors.

Located in a residential-looking white villa on Jumeirah Beach Road, menus are presented on iPads, with dishes ranging from breakfast favourites like French toast and truffle-coddled eggs to lunch and dinner options such as pulled-duck crostini and buttermilkfried chicken. Which is just as well because it’s open from 8am until 11pm (1am on Thursdays and Fridays).

Continue south along Jumeirah Beach Road and you’ll stumble upon The Surf Café (+971 4 346 6292, thesurfcafedubai.com). A block back from the beach, this chilled-out spot has friendly staff and a wide selection of fresh seafood (you can even choose live lobster and king crab from the tank), along with sushi, ceviche and salads. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the all-day breakfast menu, super-smoothies and speciality coffee are yet more reasons to visit.

Meanwhile, The Majlis Dubai (themajlisdubai.com) at The Dubai Mall bills itself as the city’s ‘first and finest camel milk café’. Come here to try the signature camelccino or camellatte made with specially roasted Ethiopian coffee beans and deliciously smooth camel milk, along with Arabic coffee served from a traditional dallah pot, and muffins, éclairs and ice cream made from, you guessed it, camel milk.

Leading the way when it comes to hipster cafés, The Sum of Us (+971 56 445 7526, thesumofusdubai.com)

in the Burj Al Salam building behind the Sheraton Hotel has industrial-chic interiors, a sourdough bakery and its own coffee roastery. As you can imagine, it smells pretty good – throw in an inviting menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes, such as French toast with salted-caramel sauce or Parmesancrusted chicken breast, and you can see why it’s one of Dubai’s most popular spots (open 8am-10pm daily). At the other end of town in Al Quoz, sister café Tom&Serg (+971 56 474 6812, tomandserg.com) is just as good and usually even busier.

SumPtuouS SeaFood While most menus these days feature ample fish dishes, restaurants that specialise in serving up our fishy friends are in surprisingly short supply across Dubai. That’s one of the reasons why Catch (+971 4 357 1755, catch. ae) was so warmly received by locals – and remains one of the hottest tables in town, with an atmosphere to match. Hailing from NYC, the other good reason that this contemporary American seafood restaurant finds favour is, of course, its food. You can have your fish in a number of ways, but you don’t need to look beyond the simple grilled version. If you only have time to eat out once or twice while you’re here, make Catch a must-dine.

For classic seaside favourites at a reasonable price, stop by The MAINE (+971 4 457 6719, themaine.ae) in the DoubleTree by Hilton, JBR. Part American brasserie and part European bistro, the unpretentious venue features a raw bar overflowing with fresh oysters, ceviche and seafood towers, along with grilled steak, chops and a variety of vegetarian dishes.

With touches of nautical glamour and a seafront-facing terrace, it’s also a top

spot to head for relaxed sundowners.

Meanwhile, if you’re keen to dine with the feel of sand between your toes, book a table at Fish Beach Taverna (+971 4 511 7139, fish-dubai.com).

Specialising in seafood and with a rustic Mediterranean feel, the restaurant can be found on the water’s edge at Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, and has tables set directly on the sand. Simple, unfussy and amazingly atmospheric.

divine dim Sum, and tHen Some No self-respecting cosmopolitan city can call itself a self-respecting cosmopolitan city unless it has a Hakkasan (+971 4 384 8484, hakkasan.com). Happily, Dubai does (at Jumeirah Emirates Towers), and the high-end chain doesn’t disappoint with its chic, contemporary Chinese décor, expertly made dim sum and oh-so fashionable bar.

Shang Palace (+971 4 405 2703, shangri-la.com) at the Shangri-La Dubai is an old favourite that never fluctuates from serving up outstanding examples of Cantonese cuisine: case in point, the signature cod fish with grapes and well-balanced orange sauce.

When you crave Peking duck – and you will – nowhere does it better than the award-toting Mekong (+971 4 567 8304, dubai-palm.anantara.com) at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort. Its lengthy menu includes myriad Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese highlights (the duck Thai red curry is another big hitter), which you’ll enjoy plonked on rickshaw-style seating.

Where To Shop

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To

SHOP Chapter FOUR

Step inside the stores, meander around the markets and seek out the unique shopping experiences that are found only in Dubai

Mega Malls Few places in the world do malls like Dubai. Ever since the first one (the Al Ghurair Centre) swung open its doors in 1980, there’s been a steady flow of malls opening up across the city.

Whether you’re in town for a day, a week or longer, there’s a mall for you.

During Ramadan, opening hours are extended till the wee small hours. Most malls have a food court open during the day for non-fasters, while cafés, restaurants and fast food outlets tend to open after sunset and serve until late to accommodate those who are fasting.

With over 1,200 stores under its gargantuan roof, The Dubai Mall (800 38 224 6255, thedubaimall.com) should be your first stop. Consisting of four levels – plus an aquarium, Olympicsized ice rink and 22-screen cineplex – it was named the largest shopping centre in the world by Guinness World Records when it opened in 2008, and is packed with designer and high-street stores. At some point during your time here it’s a given that you’ll lose your bearings, but there are numerous help desks (and even buggies to ferry you around if you’re flagging). Don’t leave without visiting Level Shoes

(+971 4 501 6939, levelshoedistrict. com), which houses every designer shoe brand known to mankind; the region’s first Bloomingdale’s (+971 4 350 5333); and an outpost of France’s famous Galeries Lafayette (+971 4 339 9933, galerieslafayette-dubai.com).

Mall of the Emirates (+971 4 409 9000, malloftheemirates.com) is another big shopping draw. Following its recent 36,000 sq m extension (which saw 20 new fashion brands, 12 restaurants and a 24-screen VOX Cinemas added), this mega-mall has over 560 stores to roam. Make sure you become acquainted with Fashion

Where To Shop

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abOUt this ChapteR Dubai’s main malls have long opening hours, especially during Ramadan; The Dubai Mall opens daily from 10am-2am, while Mall of the Emirates opens from 10am-2am Sunday-Wednesday and 10am-3am Thursday-Saturday. Shoppers are asked to dress modestly – shoulders and knees should be covered.

These dress codes are in place to show respect for the country’s culture and religion, rather than a law.

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Dome, an area dedicated to designer garb; Boutique 1 (+971 4 395 1200, boutique1.com), a home-grown retail star stocking global and local labels; and Harvey Nichols – Dubai (+971 4 409 8888, harveynichols.com), which houses a winning mix of international fashion heavyweights over three floors.

Next, hop in a taxi or take the metro to BurJuman (+971 4 352 0222, burjuman.com), one of the oldest shopping malls in Dubai. Offering wall-to-wall high fashion, from Fendi to Versace to the UAE’s only Saks Fifth Avenue (+971 4 501 2700, saksme. com), here you can shop for designer names in relative calm.

Back on the metro, continue for three stops along the Red Line and you’ll reach Deira City Centre Mall (+971 4 295 1010, citycentredeira. com), home to over 370 retail stores as well as Magic Planet, a supersized indoor family-entertainment centre.

A hop and skip from here is Dubai Festival City Mall (+971 4 800 332, festivalcentre.com), a creekside retail resort that offers a potpourri of shops (mostly mid-range), with newcomers including Rigby & Peller, River Island and Kate Spade. The new waterfront extension provides great views of the city skyline and boasts 20 restaurants, including the first Serendipity 3 outside the United States.

Shoppers who need a fuss-free retail spree should head to Dubai Marina Mall (+971 4 436 1020, dubaimarinamall.com), which offers a stylish mix of high-street brands on a more manageable scale, or Ibn Battuta Mall (+971 4 362 1900, ibnbattutamall. com). Touted as the world’s largest themed shopping mall and based on the travels of Arabic explorer Ibn Battuta, the décor alone makes for great snaps.

There are bargains galore at Dubai Outlet Mall (+971 4 423 4666, dubaioutletmall.com), located 30 minutes outside the city, and The Outlet Village (+971 4 317 3999, theoutletvillage.ae) in Jebel Ali, the emirate’s newest hot spot for luxury labels for less. The former offers heavily discounted prices on previous seasons’ wares from top brands; must-visit shops

DXB City Expert

include Priceless and The Outlet, both of which stock clothes and accessories from the city’s biggest luxury department stores. The latter boasts three department stores and over 125 brands such as Tom Ford, Jimmy Choo, Tory Burch and many more. Taking inspiration from the World Heritagelisted Tuscan town of San Gimignano, the mall features terracotta-tiled piazzas and stylish cafés, making it a lovely place to wile away a few hours.

Open during Ramadan from 10am to 11pm, Sunday to Wednesday, and 10am to 1am, Thursday to Saturday, there are free shuttle buses departing regularly from Jumeirah, Al Barsha and Dubai Marina. Visit the website for locations and times.

sOUveniRs tO savOUR Say farewell to tacky token gifts and hello to something a little more authentic – starting with Arabica coffee. While a number of coffee shops in Dubai serve Arabica coffee (with a signature date), few sell the beans to take away – apart from the Dubai Coffee Museum (+971 4 353 8777, coffeemuseum.ae), that is. Located in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the museum features a coffee bar on the top floor, where bubbly barista John Paul – an expert when it comes to drinks of the caffeinated kind – serves and sells Arabica coffee to visitors looking for a souvenir with a touch of authenticity. It’s open from 9am to 5pm every day, except Friday.

Poetry is another cornerstone of Dubai’s history. Head to the vast Kinokuniya (+971 4 434 0111, uae. kinokuniya.com) bookshop in The Dubai Mall to pick up an Arabic poetry book from one of the many shelves stacked high with tomes. Calligraphy, too, is synonymous with Emirati heritage. Gallery 1 (+971 4 432 7493, g-1.com), which has shops in Souk Al Bahar and Souk Madinat Jumeirah, among other locales, stocks an enviable selection of calligraphy keepsakes, from prints to notebooks.

Oud, a scent synonymous with Dubai, will undoubtedly make for

a memorable memento, with most of the malls and markets mentioned here offering bottled or bespoke versions for men and women. But for noses that prefer softer scents, head to Villa 515 (+971 4 395 4054, villa515.com), an olfactory sanctuary in Jumeirah 3 that boasts a laboratory specifically designed for perfume customisation. Perfect for creating your own holiday scent.

COnCept stORes Outside of Dubai’s glitzy malls there’s a raft of independent concept stores and shopping experiences to enjoy – if you know where to find them.

The best way to tick off the city’s unique boutiques is to introduce them

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ask a lOCal Tala Samman Stylist and blogger myfashdiary.com A Dubai-based talent to look out for is accessories designer Nathalie Trad (nathalietrad.com). You'll find her sculptural clutches at Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols – Dubai.

pReviOUs page: The Dubai Mall leFt: Mall of the Emirates

into your day, rather than allocate a day to visit them. For example, if you find yourself in Alserkal Avenue admiring the art galleries, stop by The cARTel (+971 4 388 4341, thecartel.me), one of Dubai’s creative retail pioneers. From the outside it looks like an abandoned warehouse.

Step inside, however, and a carefully curated selection of clothing awaits.

The designers stocked here are often exclusive to the region, with every piece a limited edition to ensure its individuality. Over the road from The cARTel you’ll find A4 Space (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), a sprawling 6,000 sq ft warehouse that regularly hosts pop-up fashion and art events for the city’s cool crowd.

Near the beach, Comptoir 102 (+971 4 385 4555) on Jumeirah Beach Road is a conceptualised eatery selling kitsch clothing alongside a delicious vegan menu. From here, venture south to BoxPark and key an eye out for The Zoo Concept (+971 4 349 5585), which offers everything from novelty gifts and quirky homewares to trendy T-shirts and cool clutches.

In Umm Suqeim is IF Boutique (+971 4 394 7260, ifboutiquedubai. com), a villa housing cutting-edge designs from a whole host of quirky international designers, including Yohji Yamamoto. A short drive down the same street is Garderobe (+971 4 394 2753, garderobe.ae), a hotbed for preowned luxury fashion. Expect to

find vintage Chanel alongside Céline, Balenciaga beside Burberry, and Dior in company with Dolce & Gabbana.

Holidaymakers planning on retracing Tom Cruise’s footsteps at Dubai International Financial Centre (Cruise ran under the iconic Gate Building in the fourth instalment of Mission: Impossible) should pay Momentum (+971 4 327 4320, momentum-dubai. com) a visit. This vintage- and rarewatch store offers a raft of timepieces as well as service and repair.

best OF bespOke Dubai has garnered a well-deserved reputation for custom tailoring over the years, thanks, in part, to

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Where To Shop Zayan the Label

an abundance of fabric stores and quick turnaround times – great for visitors like yourself.

Areas synonymous with tailoring include Satwa – Deepa’s (+971 4 349 4434, deepastailoring.com) is a popular spot; Karama – Dream Girls (+971 4 337 7287) is a regular for Dubai’s females; and Bur Dubai – Parmar Tailors (+971 4 351 3112, parmartailors.com) is a firm favourite for made-to-measure. These three locations make for a great day out in ‘old’ Dubai, regardless of whether you’re looking for bespoke attire.

Men, meanwhile, should stop by Threads & Tailors (+971 4 34 777 19, threadsandtailors.com) in Al Barsha (there's a second branch at Sustainable City). Its master tailors create bespoke and made-to-measure suits and shirts at reasonable prices, and counts tennis ace Roger Federer and Bollywood star Shah Rukh Khan among its clients.

Couples looking to say ‘I do’ should stop by the popular Gold & Diamond Park (+971 4 362 7777, goldanddiamondpark.com) along Sheikh Zayed Road. It’s a hive of activity with lots of jewellery stores offering custom-made luxuries. Dubai stalwart Monili Jewellers (+971 4 340 7537, monilijewellers.com) is a standout. It houses a range of diamonds, semiprecious and precious stones, which the boutique’s artisans can use to create bespoke pieces for you. Haggling here is an absolute – and welcomed – essential.

Mini Malls They might not be as big as Dubai’s jumbo malls but the city’s smaller counterparts are chock-full of labels worthy of your holiday dirhams. Most are located along Jumeirah Beach Road and Al Wasl Road – two roads that run parallel. Simply drive up one, turn around at Drydocks Dubai, and drive down the other.

Kick off your mini-mall trawl at one of Dubai’s newest shopping

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Where To Shop

centres, aptly named The Mall (+971 4 348 4848, themall.co.ae), opposite Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Flooded with natural light, it houses 55 stores and food outlets including Boho Beachwear, Big Brands Factory Outlet and French fashion retailer Escales.

Continue along Jumeirah Beach Road to Sunset Mall (+971 4 330 7333, sunsetmall.ae), home to West LA Boutique (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique.com) and its batch of underground fashion brands from across the globe. Two other must-visit shopping havens here include the Mediterranean-inspired Mercato Mall (+971 4 344 4161, mercatoshoppingmall.com) – home to the brilliant Bagatelle (+971 55 312 6822), which sells preowned designer clothing, shoes and jewellery – and Galleria Mall (+971 4 344 4434, galleria-mall.ae), where you’ll find hip stores like Cities (+971 4 34 34 301, citiesdubai.com), which stocks unique design objects, art and homewares, and Zayan the Label (+971 4 344 0104, zayanthelabel.com), which sells readyto-wear clothing and accessories by designer Zayan Ghandour.

City Walk (citywalk.ae), at the junction of Al Wasl and Al Safa Road, aims to bring the outside in with a boulevard-style shopping area complete with glass roof, subtle air-conditioning and plenty of natural light. Windowshop without breaking a sweat at boutiques like American Vintage, Rag & Bone and Karl Lagerfeld. There’s also a new, two-storey outlet of the iconic Paris department store Le BHV Marais.

If you want to fully explore the Jumeirah/Al Wasl area but haven’t rented a car, you can hire a taxi for a six-hour stint, for a flat fee of Dhs500.

You must book 24 hours in advance (+971 4 208 0000, dubaitaxi.ae).

indOOR MaRkets Dubai really heats up this month, bringing an end to the al-fresco markets

DXB City Expert

which are a feature of the winter shopping season. Ripe Market (+971 4 380 7602, ripeme.com) is one of the city’s most popular, and for the summer months it takes refuge inside Times Square Centre on Sheikh Zayed Road.

Focused solely on local artisans and designers, there's also live music and activities for the kids. It takes place every Saturday from 9am-3pm.

Now in its sixth year, the Ramadan Night Market (ramadannightmarket. com) is held over 10 days from June 1-10 at Hall 7 and 8 at Dubai World Trade Centre. It features a huge array of clothing, jewellery, perfumes, homewares and souvenirs, along with food stalls dishing up regional and international treats and a kids' play area with face painting, bouncy castles, climbing walls, trampolines and more.

It's open from 8pm to 2am.

sOUk speCtaCUlaR Nestled in the Deira’s maze of winding walkways you’ll find the Dubai Gold Souk – best reached by taxi, although the nearest metro stop is Al Ras. Made up of around 300 jewellery stores, residents love it because it reminds them of days gone by, while tourists like it for the quality and variety of gold – and the fact that you can haggle.

A quick march from the Gold Souk will lead you to the Spice Souk, home to a number of thatched market stalls selling aromatic spices. It's an ideal place to stock up on high-quality saffron, locally-blended teas and fresh and sundried organic dates.

Not far from both is the Perfume Souk, which is a great place to buy the traditional Arabic scent, oud. You can also buy essential oils at great prices (particularly if you haggle well).

Dubai Textile Souk, meanwhile, is a fabric fairyland for shoppers looking to create bespoke garments.

The colourful souk has everything from swathes of silk for saris and wedding gowns to bolts of embroidered cotton.

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Where To Shop

gO lOCal Dubai is a real hub for emerging and established Middle East fashion designers. For the former, head to Pôlette Concept Store (+971 50 879 6518) in City Walk. It was launched

by Esmod Dubai, The French Fashion Institute, and is the only retail startup platform in the world to launch university students’ fashion brands.

Not far from here is Atelier Des Artistes (+971 4 343 4967) in BoxPark, which stocks beautiful limited and one-off designs from some of the region’s leading designers.

Dubai is also home to a number of stellar designers whose collections have careered down the runway at fashion weeks around the world.

Madiyah Al Sharqi, the daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, is celebrated here and abroad for her statement pieces, feminine separates and dresses. Pick up a Sharqi staple from Symphony (+971 4 310 6904, bysymphony.com) in The Dubai Mall. Also stocked at Symphony is Endemage, an ethnicchic label created by Omani sisters Nadia and Lubna Zakwani.

House of Nomad is another local label elbowing its way inside the wardrobes of the UAE’s fash-pack.

The celebrated newcomer, applauded for its use of Arabic calligraphy throughout its collections, can be found at West LA Boutique (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique.com) in Sunset Mall.

Besides the malls, the streets along Jumeirah Beach Road, Al Wasl Road and the surrounding roads are dotted with villas housing local design talent. You’ll find Dubai fashion star Rami Al Ali (+971 4 394 5607, ramialali. com), whose couture collections have appeared at Paris Fashion Week, in villa 697 on Al Wasl Road. Book a consultation for haute couture or simply scour the rails at Harvey Nichols – Dubai for his understated ready-to-wear collections.

Superstar designer Ezra (+971 4 395 5385, ezrafashiondesign.com), best known for his dreamy, extravagant gowns, creates his masterpieces from

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Pôlette Concept Store

his atelier in Dubai’s Jumeirah 3 (villa 746, Al Wasl Road). This is a must-visit boutique for ladies who are looking for five-star quality couture.

Open-aiR Retail aFFaiR If you’re seeking a cooling sea breeze with your shopping, The Beach (+971 80 063 7227, thebeach.ae) in Dubai Marina boasts a bunch of cool stores selling holiday staples, alongside a picturesque esplanade with cafés, restaurants and the boutique Roxy Cinemas. Be sure to pop into S*uce OnSea (971 4 430 4202, play.shopatsauce. com) to browse its unique collection of beach-inspired wear from both international and regional designers.

Peppered along a 1,200m stretch of pavement on Al Wasl Road, BoxPark (+971 4 317 3999, boxpark.ae) is a pop-up mall made up of shipping containers. Visitors will find 220 industrial containers selling everything

from streetwear to ice cream, along with restaurants, cafés, Roxy Cinemas and free Wi-Fi along the strip. Cool stores to look out for include Urbanist (+971 55 381 4552, urbaniststore. com), which has contemporary fashion from international brands and Middle Eastern designers, and Marimekko (+971 4 343 8515, marimekko.com) for clothes, home decor and accessories from the cult Finnish design house renowned for its original prints and colours.

Then jump in a taxi for a five-minute drive to Al Wasl Square, where edgy retail stores, bakeries and beauty parlours are bunched together for a short but sweet shopping experience.

Sister property City Walk (citywalk.ae) also offers a central alfresco location in which the family can shop, dine, play and pamper. The Europeanstyle streets are lined with designer boutiques such as Chantelle, Carven and Bambah.

What To Do

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What

DO Chapter FIVE

Think you’re only here for the sun and shopping? Think again. Dubai boasts ample attractions that you’ll want to experience before heading home. The fun starts here

SEE thE cIty From thE Sky Skydiving is on every daredevil’s bucket list and there’s no better place to do it than here. Skydive Dubai (+971 4 377 8888, skydivedubai.ae) has one of the world’s most spectacular tandem jumps over the iconic Palm Jumeirah.

Or if you’d rather not leap out of a plane, iFly Dubai (+971 4 231 6292, theplaymania.com) lets you defy gravity in its amazing indoor wind tunnel.

For more sedate sightseeing, Seawings (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) offers a range of scenic joy flights, including the Dubai Creek Silver tour, a 40-minute ‘dock to dock’ seaplane excursion above the historic Creek, Palm Jumeirah, Burj Khalifa and more.

If VIP bling is more your thing, nothing beats hovering around town in a helicopter. Fly High Helicopter Services (advance booking via City

Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) offers 15- or 25-minute tours from its helipad at Atlantis, The Palm, as well as helicopter transfers so you can really arrive in style. Meanwhile, Heli Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) takes off from Dubai Festival City, with 12- or 22-minute aerial tours over Dubai’s stratosphere-nudging skyscrapers for an unforgettable experience.

Skydive Dubai

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About thIS chAptEr As you’ll read, there is much to do in Dubai, and as such we’ve ensured our recommendations include plenty of options for both big and little kids. By far the best way to get your bearings – and to see all of the city – is by starting out with a City Sightseeing Dubai hop-on, hop-off bus tour (see Top Of The Tours for booking details). Then it’s all about ticking off that to-do list…

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What To Do

hIt thE bEAch If you’re staying in a hotel without its own private beach, but a dose of sea and sand is high on your holiday wish list, head down to one of Dubai’s many beautiful public beaches – if you're brave (or crazy) enough to withstand the heat.

Backed by a low-rise collection of restaurants, cafés and boutiques, and featuring a winding walkway dotted with food stalls and kids’ playgrounds, The Beach at JBR (800 637 227, thebeach.ae) is one of the most popular spots along the Arabian Gulf.

There are excellent changing facilities with showers, as well as all manner of activities to enjoy (from beach football to early morning yoga), and you can rent a sunbed with an umbrella and towel for Dhs110 per day.

Another firm favourite is the stretch of sand running the length of Umm Suqeim known as Kite Beach, thanks to its popularity with kite-surfers (you can sign up for lessons, too). It boasts a promenade with a handful of cool cafés, changing facilities and showers, sunbed and brolly rental, as well as a jogging trackand the XDubai Skatepark.

tAkE to thE hIgh SEAS Sailing and yachting are popular pastimes here, and cruising past The Palm towards the iconic Burj Al Arab at sunset is one of the most memorable ways to experience Dubai. Deep-sea fishing is another big draw, with species such as king mackerel and barracuda tempting anglers.

First Yacht (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) specialises in tailor-made luxury yacht and catamaran charters and private fishing trips, as well as powerboat rides and romantic dinner cruises for two.

Sea Hunters (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) is another recommended operator that can organise deep-sea fishing tours, luxury yacht and catamaran charters, and flashy speedboat cruises all around Palm Jumeirah. A grear way to see the city's skyline.

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ALL thE Fun oF thE FountAInS At the foot of Burj Khalifa is a 30-acre lake, in which stands the world’s largest dancing fountain. The Dubai Fountain has multiple jets spread across the lake, which shoot water 500ft into the air – about the height of a 50-storey building – while ‘dancing’ to the music. Shows are daily at 1pm and 1.30pm (1.30pm and 2pm on Fridays) and every 30 minutes from 6pm to 11pm. Bag a table on the terrace of a lakeside restaurant (see Where To Eat), watch for free from the Waterfront Promenade, just outside the entrance to The Dubai Mall, or see it in style aboard one of the abras (traditional Arabic boats), which sail as close to the action as possible. Tickets cost Dhs65 per person and can be purchased from a counter on the Waterfront Promenade or from At The Top, Burj Khalifa.

ExpErIEncE Snow And IcE While a winter wonderland in a desert city sounds fantastical, it does exist in Dubai. Located in Mall of the Emirates, Ski Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) is the go-to place for skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing or just throwing snowballs.

Clothing and equipment are available for hire, and there are lessons for budding skiers aged three and up, and boarders aged eight and over. Don’t miss the free penguin parades, daily at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm and 8pm.

Dubai’s other mega-mall has its own penguins, too, albeit plastic ones.

Dubai Ice Rink (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com), the Olympic-sized rink at The Dubai Mall, has public sessions for beginner and intermediate skaters, as well as snowfall sessions every Tuesday and Thursday at 6pm, and Friday and Saturday at 4:30pm. Penguin Pal skating aids are available for little ones measuring a minimum of 1m tall, while there are Snowmen for adults and children over 12 who are unsteady on their skates.

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bEyond ShoppIng At thE dubAI mALL The Dubai Mall has a host of activities to keep the whole tribe entertained.

Gamers of all ages will love SEGA Republic (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a huge indoor theme park with 15 rides including a roller coaster, and hundreds of high-tech games. Little visitors will love KidZania (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a sprawling minicity that allows children to dabble in 80 different careers, from pilot to police officer. And aviation enthusiasts aged nine and over can fly the world’s largest passenger plane at the Emirates A380 Experience (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), a state-of-theart Airbus flight simulator.

Ski Dubai

What To Do

SwIng Into ActIon Dubai has become a major golf destination and boasts an impressive collection of high-calibre courses. And as the mercury rises, there are some great golf deals to be had at the various clubs around town.

Emirates Golf Club (+971 4 380 1234, dubaigolf.com) is an old favourite, with two 18-hole par-72 championship courses and a clubhouse inspired by Bedouin tents. The Majlis course, home to the Omega Dubai Desert Classic, a prestigious fixture on the European Tour, has open horizons and stretches of scrubby sand along with more traditional bunkers, while the Faldo, redesigned

by Nick Faldo in 2005, has a wadi (valley) running through it, which is sure to challenge first-timers. It's also Dubai's only fully floodlit 18-hole course, so you can tee off after dark.

During summer, you can play the Majlis for Dhs500, or the Faldo from Dhs350

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before 5pm and from Dhs375 after 5pm. Fees for 9 holes are also available.

Jumeirah Golf Estates (+971 4 818 2000, jumeirahgolfestates.com) has two Greg Norman-designed championship courses matched by excellent club facilities. Inspired by the great parkland courses of Europe and North America, the Earth course is home to the DP World Tour Championship, the grand finale of the European Tour’s Race to Dubai. During summer, you can play 18 holes on either Earth or Fire for Dhs500.

If your game is not quite at the level of a Rory McIlroy, sharpen your skills at the more forgiving The Track (+971 4 381 3733, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel. It’s a great ninehole course offering five different tee positions (perfect if you’re a beginner).

Open daily from 6.30am to 11pm, membership is not available so the pay-and-play policy (from Dhs175 for nine holes) means you’re always likely to secure a tee time.

ASk A LocAL Binu George Finance director When I have visitors in town, I normally take them to the Gold Souk in Deira.

Then we take an abra across the Creek to Bur Dubai to explore the culture and heritage of the UAE at the Dubai Museum (+971 4 353 1862, dubaiculture.gov.ae).

The Green Planet

gEt on trAck Petrolheads can do more than just drool at Dubai’s legion of supercars.

Slip behind the wheel of a singleseater F3 race car, McLaren, Audi TT or R8 supercar at Dubai Autodrome (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com). Track experiences combine classroom and behind-the-wheel training from a professional racing driver, before you’re let loose to do a few laps on your own – guaranteed to get your blood pumping fast. The complex is also home to Kartdrome, which has indoor and outdoor tracks that are suitable for big kids and little ones aged seven and up. The 1.2km outdoor circuit features 17 corners, a tunnel and bridge, while the 500m indoor track allows up to 10 karters to race at any one time. Plus, all the karts are equipped with timers so you can test your mettle against your mates.

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cLockwISE From top: Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa; Saray Spa,; Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo

SEE AmAzIng SEA LIFE Some of Dubai’s best family-friendly attractions can be found under the sea.

Home to over 65,000 marine animals, The Lost Chambers Aquarium (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm is sure to mesmerise young and old. There are over 20 themed exhibits housing creatures from all over the world, and visitors can also book a behind-the-scenes tour or swim, snorkel or dive with sharks.

Meanwhile, The Dubai Mall is home to the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), one of the largest suspended aquariums on the planet. Marvel at over 140 species of sea life, including more than 300 sharks and rays, or rent some scuba gear and sidle up alongside the inhabitants of the 10-million-litre tank.

No diving experience is required. At the zoo part of this aquatic attraction you’ll get to see the likes of penguins, otters, giant spider crabs and King Croc, who weighs in at 750kg. The Animal Encounter Experiences, meanwhile, provide behind-the-scenes access to otters, rays or saltwater crocodiles. The meet-and-greet sessions take place every hour, daily, from 11am to 10pm.

And if you’ve always dreamed of swimming with dolphins, you can do exactly that at Dolphin Bay (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), the 4.5-hectare dolphin conservation centre at Atlantis, The Palm. Home to a family of friendly Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, take your pick from five different dolphin experiences.

chILL out At A SpA Feeling frazzled after all that fun?

Dubai is home to some of the world’s most luxurious spas that are renowned for their ultra-indulgent treatments.

Over at the world’s tallest hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, you’ll find Saray Spa (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com).

Spanning the entire third floor of both towers, it’s one of the largest and most stunning spas in town, with arabesque arches, lanterns and latticework.

Alongside an extensive treatment menu, it has its own Dead Sea flotation pool. Try the Signature Dead Sea Journey, which involves two heavenly hours of salt scrubs, mud masks, soaking and massage for Dhs990.

For a very different panorama, visit LIME Spa (+971 4 323 8888, minorhotels.com) at Desert Palm PER AQUUM Dubai. Overlooking the resort’s gorgeous green polo fields, the spa has six suites, including one just for couples, as well as a steam room, sauna, plunge pool and ice room.

On the menu are a selection of rituals made for two or just for you. If pushed to pick just one, we’d plump for the three-hour Age Defying Ritual: salt scrub, foot reflexology, massage and caviar-and-pearl facial for Dhs895.

chILL out In thE dESErt Yes, you’ve read that correctly. You really can spend a day chilling out admid the sand dunes by heading out of town to the magnificent Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa (+971 4 832 9900. Its ‘pool package’ treats visitors to full-day access to the resort’s main pool, nestled in the sweeping sands, use of the facilities at Timeless Spa, and a three-course à-la-carte lunch inclusive of soft drinks, tea and coffee.

It costs Dhs550 per person.

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ASk A LocAL Kate Heath Company director When I have friends or family visiting Dubai, I always send them to Ski Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com). Even non-skiers will enjoy seeing the penguin parade and watching people zoom down the slopes.

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What To Do

SoAk up SomE cuLturE The new Etihad Museum (etihadmuseum.dubaiculture.ae) tells the story of the formation of the United Arab Emirates in 1971. Located next to the circular Union House in Jumeirah, the striking structure resembles a manuscript with seven tapering golden columns representing the pens used to sign the unification agreement.

Photographs, films, documents, personal artefacts and interactive pavilions provide an interesting insight into the history of the UAE, before and after unification. The museum is open daily from 10am to 8pm and tickets costs Dhs25 or Dhs10 for six- to 24-year-olds, while under-fives go free.

Opened last summer, Dubai Opera (+971 4 440 8888, dubaiopera.com) is the dhow-shaped performing-arts theatre in the glittering Downtown district that has quickly become the contemporary cultural heart of the city. Hoping to one day become as iconic as the Sydney Opera House, the bow of the Dubai Opera contains the auditorium, and a soon-to-open rooftop restaurant and sky garden with views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain. An impressive roster of events across the year ranges from opera and ballet to musical theatre and family-friendly magic shows.

With a keen focus on contemporary art, Dubai has a burgeoning art scene centred around the financial district of DIFC and the industrial area of Al Quoz. The former is home to a dozen spaces including Ayyam Gallery (+971 4 439 2395, ayyamgallery.com), which promotes emerging and established artists from the Middle East, and The Empty Quarter (+971 4 323 1210, theemptyquarter.com), which is the city’s only gallery devoted exclusively to fine-art photography.

The hippest art hub, Alserkal Avenue (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), can be found in Al Quoz. There are around 15 galleries housed in converted warehouses here, including Leila Heller Gallery (+971 56 831 3520, leilahellergallery.com) and Gulf Photo Plus (+971 4 380 8545,

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At The Top, Burj Khalifa

gulfphotoplus.com), a one-stop shop for shutterbugs of all standards.

Down near the Creek in Bur Dubai, Majlis Gallery (+971 4 353 6233, themajlisgallery.com) is also well worth a visit. It’s Dubai’s oldest art gallery, established over 25 years ago in a wind-tower house in the atmospheric Al Fahidi district, and features regional and international artists.

rIdE A roLLEr coAStEr IMG Worlds of Adventure (+971 4 403 8888, imgworlds.com) is the

world’s largest indoor theme park.

It has four unique zones – Cartoon Network, Marvel, Lost Valley– Dinosaur Adventure and IMG Boulevard – under one roof and more than 20 rides and attractions, including a first-of-its-kind Hulk 3D ride with 18 IMAX projectors and a genuinely terrifying Haunted Hotel, which you need to be aged 15 or over to enter.

Youngsters will love the Ben 10 5D cinema experience and live stage shows featuring characters from LazyTown, while adrenaline junkies should make a beeline for The Velociraptor roller

What To Do

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DXB City Expert

Premium-ticket holders, meanwhile, can also visit the level-148 observation deck – 555 metres up. You can enjoy cocktails at At.mosphere Lounge on level 122 (there’s a minimum spend, which is higher for a window seat).

Open daily until 11pm, advance booking is recommended.

bE At onE wIth nAturE

coaster, which hits speeds of up to 100km in just 2.5 seconds, and SpiderMan Doc Ock’s Revenge, a 400m coaster with spinning carriages. Of the 28 food outlets, we recommend the Indian street food at Samosa House (be sure to nab one of the tuk-tuk tables), while Tony’s Skydeck, based on Iron Man’s alter ego, serves upmarket steak and seafood with brilliant views over the park. There are also 25 retail outlets stocking plenty of original merchandise that you won’t find anywhere else.

Tickets cost Dhs245 for adults and Dhs225 for kids.

FEEL on top oF thE worLd Ascending the world’s tallest tower is high on most visitors’ must-do lists, and At The Top, Burj Khalifa (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) doesn’t disappoint.

A high-speed elevator delivers you to the observation deck on level 124 – 452m above the ground – where floor-to-ceiling glass offers 360° views.

You can then walk up a spiral, glasswalled staircase to level 125, where viewfinders provide a virtual tour of the city from the perspective of a falcon.

Dubai Butterfly Garden (+971 4 422 8902, dubaibutterflygarden.com) is a fluttery attraction unlike any other in the city. Located in Al Barsha South, there are five temperature-controlled domes filled with thousands of plants, flowers and butterflies from all around the world, along with a butterfly and insect museum. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, tickets cost Dhs50.

The Green Planet (thegreenplanet dubai.com) at City Walk in Jumeirah is the region’s first bio-dome. Flooded with natural light, the five-level glass building recreates the ecosystem of a tropical forest, with over 3,000 plants and animals and the world’s largest indoor man-made tree as its centrepiece (because, hey, this is Dubai, after all). While the 25m tree is fake, it is life-sustaining in that real plants have been planted all over it, which will creep and grow across its branches.

As you slowly descend from the top of the dome via a winding path, you’ll encounter exotic animals such as toucans, macaws, porcupines and even a sloth. Open from 10am to 10pm (midnight on weekends), tickets cost Dhs95 for adults and Dhs70 for two- to 12-year-olds.

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Jump to It A trampolining trend is currently sweeping the city, with three fantastic facilities to choose from. Bounce (+971 4 321 1400, bounce.ae) in Al Quoz is Dubai’s original indoor trampoline park and has more than 100 interconnected trampolines, along with wall running, foam pits, dodgeball, a slam-dunk area and a flight academy where experts can teach you how to jump, somersault and do stunts.

In the same neighbourhood, Flip Out (600 567 568, flipout.ae) boasts more than 200 interconnecting trampolines and 10 trampoline-based attractions, including the Double Decker Kids’ Arena – which has smaller mats and custom springs to make the trampolines extra safe for kids and toddlers.

Meanwhile, Jump Boxx (+971 4 288 5744, jump-boxx.com) in Uptown Mirdif has over 120 interconnecting trampolines and a dedicated kids’ court for three- to five-year-olds to jump at their own pace. There are also activities such as dodgeball and basketball, plus ladies-only sessions with all-female staff and a live DJ every Wednesday evening from 4pm to 10pm.

gEt wEt And wILd Water babies are spoilt for choice as Dubai has three first-rate water parks offering something for all ages.

Located in front of the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab, Wild Wadi Water Park (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is the more manageable of the two original parks, with over 30 rides and attractions. From kid-friendly slides and the relaxing lazy river to adrenaline-fuelled surfing experiences and the truly terrifying Jumeirah Sceirah, it’s impossible not to have fun at this fantastic seaside park.

Over on Palm Jumeirah you’ll find Aquaventure Waterpark (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm. It comprises 17 hectares of heart-stopping

slides, rides, pools and interconnecting waterways, along with a huge kids’ play area, exhilarating zip line, pristine private beach, private cabanas and the not-sosmall matter of Shark Lagoon, where you can handfeed gentle rays. Celebrating your birthday while in Dubai? Register online at atlantisthepalm.com for a free Aquaventure day pass to use anytime during your birthday week Down in Jebel Ali at Dubai Parks and Resorts, relative newbie to the scene LEGOLAND Water Park (legoland.ae) is designed specifically for kids aged two to 12. Open from 10am until 6pm, the troops can slip, slide and splash their way through 15 LEGO-inspired water slides, raft rides and pools. Make a beeline for the Build-A-Raft-River, where you can construct your own LEGO raft and float around the lazy river, while the DUPLO area has slides, rides and play areas for toddlers. LEGOLAND Dubai and LEGOLAND Water Park are classed as two separate parks, each requiring their own ticket; the twopark combo ticket allows you to move freely between both parks and offers the best value for families.

Valid for one day, it costs Dhs395 for adults and Dhs350 for kids.

Otherwise, a one-day ticket for the water park costs Dhs240 for adults and Dhs205 for children. Under-threes get free entry to LEGOLAND Dubai, but must pay a small fee to enter the water park, which includes a swim nappy.

SEE A moVIE wIth A dIFFErEncE A trip to the cinema takes on a whole new dimension here in Dubai.

VOX Cinemas (+971 6 0059 9905, voxcinemas.com) at Mall of the Emirates has 24 screens including a multisensory 4DX theatre that adds moving seats and effects like rain and lightning.

You can swap popcorn for a gourmet duck burger at Vox Theatre by Rhodes, which combines luxury seats and service with a menu devised by chef Gary Rhodes.

hIt thE pArkS Dubai Parks and Resorts (+971 4 820 0000, dubaiparksandresorts.com), a

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USD3.6 billion development in Jebel Ali, is the city’s latest large-scale attraction.

It’s home to three world-class theme parks – Motiongate Dubai, Bollywood Parks Dubai and LEGOLAND Dubai – as well as the tot-friendly LEGOLAND Water Park.

LEGOLAND Dubai (which adjoins the water park) has six themed lands with 40 rides, shows and attractions, and 15,000 LEGO models built using more than 60 million bricks.

Bollywood Parks Dubai, meanwhile, has a plethora of rides and attractions inspired by nine colourful Bollywood Bollywood Parks Dubai

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films and up to 30 live shows a day across six stages. The 850-seat Rajmahal Theatre is home to a separately ticketed Broadway-style, Bollywood-themed musical, too.

With a theme of a different kind, Motiongate Dubai is jam-packed with roller-coasters, multimedia dark rides and live shows based on characters from blockbuster films including Ghostbusters, Shrek, Kung Fu Panda, The Hunger Games and The Smurfs, who even have their own village.

Connecting the entire development is Riverland Dubai, a free-to-enter

retail and dining district with more than 50 shops and eateries across four themed zones – The French Village, Boardwalk, India Gate and The Peninsula – set beside a picturesque man-made river. Ticket options for the parks are varied – visit dubaiparksand resorts.com for the full rundown.

ImmErSIVE Fun If you’re a gamer, you’ll love Hub Zero (800 637 227, hubzerodubai. com) at City Walk, where the real and virtual worlds collide for thrills

DXB City Expert

aplenty. Shooting games include Resident Evil, an interactive 3D trackless dark ride during which you’ll fight off zombies, and Battlefield, which sees you don visionenhancing goggles to identify the enemy’s weak point and blast your way to victory with a laser gun. If you like a scare, 4D cinema experience Asura’s Wrath includes leg ticklers, seat vibration, water and wind, while the roller coaster inside Dragon Age pits you in a 360° aerial battle, during which you'll dodge arrows, trees and a magical vortex. Tickets can be booked online and range from Dhs210 to Dhs260.

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Chapter SIX

WHERE TO

go Where once it was a city bereft of cool clubs and nightlife to speak of, Dubai now attracts the biggest names in the business to a stellar line-up of fabulous venues. Get your glad rags on – we’re going out

the beSt beach clubS Nikki Beach Dubai (taxi: Pearl Jumeira, +971 4 376 6162) is the city’s most stylish beach club and the 13th of its kind to open worldwide. Like its glamorous global counterparts – from Miami to Marbella – the Dubai outpost has a solid selection of resident DJs and attracts a beautiful crowd who come to party from early afternoon around blue-tiled pools surrounded by white daybeds and cabanas with billowing drapes. During Ramadan, Nikki Beach Dubai will be open from 3pm to 7pm.

Down at JBR, Zero Gravity (taxi: Skydive Dubai, +971 4 399 0009) is the another hot spot that has welcomed big names like Paul Van Dyk and Mark Ronson to play under the stars. Things quieten down during Ramadan, with the beach and club closed, however the 2,000sqm pool area is still open. It includes a 39m glass-fronted infinity pool that's well worth checking out – just as Justin Beiber did recently.

Meanwhile, Barasti (taxi: Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, +971 4 399 333) has been ruling the roost for 20 years, pulling in thousands of revellers every weekend.

It combines live music, daily sunbathing sessions, a sand-between-your-toes dance floor and more serving stations than you can shake an empty glass at.

During the Holy Month, Barasti will open from 6pm with alcohol being served from 8pm.

ladIeS’ nIghtS we love Like Friday brunch, ‘ladies’ night’ is something of a Dubai institution.

Usually staged on Tuesdays, but now increasingly popping up at least somewhere in town throughout the week, the nights are so named because ladies get to drink for free for a set amount of time – or in some places to a limitless degree. Things obviously slow down over Ramadan, although some venues do still host low-key gatherings for ladies after sunset.

If bubbles by the beach sound appealing, then Anantara The Palm Dubai’s (+971 4 567 8302, dubai-palm. anantara.com) Sparkle in the Sand ladies’ night is just the ticket. Every Tuesday from 8pm, ladies can sip unlimited bubbles in the relaxed beach bar overlooking the resort’s Thai-style over-water villas for just Dhs75 per person. The first 50 ladies will be given a silky pouch containing a gem, one of which will contain a genuine precious stone, and they have until 10pm to visit Dhamani Jewellers in the lobby to find out if theirs is the real deal.

If you’d rather soak up Dubai’s Blade Runner-esque skyline, Vault (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, +971 50 738 1388), located on the 71st and 72nd floors of the world’s tallest hotel, is just the ticket.

Ladies can enjoy three complimentary drinks here every Tuesday from 7pm to midnight, while DJ Adam J mixes an eclectic selection of beats – from R&B and house music through to 1980s and 1990s old-school.

Nikki Beach Dubai

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about thIS chapter During Ramadan, the focus turns to quiet reflection and connecting with family and friends at iftars and suhoors. Most major nightclubs are closed, while bars will generally remain open but there is no live music. Most will only serve alcohol after 8pm to those aged 21 or older, the legal drinking age in Dubai. We have included a taxi reference for you â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ask the driver to head here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as most will not know the location of the venue if you say its name only.

Lucky Voice Where To Go

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For SomethIng dIFFerent Imported from London, Lucky Voice (taxi: Grand Millennium Hotel, +971 4 429 9999) is a top spot for testing your rap skills, singing soft-rock anthems or just screaming cheesy pop tunes to your heart’s content in one of eleven private pods (there’s also a VIP pod suitable for 25). The venue is open from 2pm-3am during Ramadan, with a daily happy hour from 2pm-8pm offering 2-for-1 drinks and pizzas, plus ladies’ night offers on Tuesdays and Saturdays. On Fridays, brunch kicks off at 2pm-5pm with unlimited food and beverages, plus private karaoke pods (Dhs195 with soft drinks, Dhs295 with house drinks and Dhs350 with sparkling grape).

We’re not sure why it hasn’t been done before, but Stereo Arcade (taxi: Double Tree by Hilton, +971 52 618 2424) combines music and a stereo arcade (with over 50,000 games from the ‘80s and ‘90s) as well as a slushy machine, hot dog stand and more. It’s an unpretentious place and plenty of fun, especially for those who grew up in a pre-Xbox era.

For something with a real twist, push the bookcase in the lobby of the Dusit Thani hotel. It will open to reveal a hidden door, on which you’ll knock to gain entry to the Nippon Bottle Company (taxi: Dusit Thani, +971 4 357 0779), a Japanese speakeasy. It offers an impressive list of Japanese whiskeys, which are now considered to be some of the best in the world.

Also tucked away on the ground floor of a five-star hotel – in this case, the Conrad Dubai – is Little Black Door (+971 55 623 1620, knocktoenter. com). You’ll have no problem spotting it, though – the ‘little black door’ is actually huge – and inside you’ll find a classy, club-style lounge, with crystal chandeliers hanging from leatherclad ceilings, opulent furnishings and distressed-brick walls.

caSual hangoutS Named best Irish pub on the planet at last year’s Irish Pubs Global Awards, The Irish Village (+971 4 282 4750, theirishvillage.com) in Garhoud is a Dubai institution. With its traditional interiors and classic pub grub, including brilliant bangers and mash, you’re guaranteed good craic.

Fibber Magee’s (+971 4 332 2400, fibbersdubai.com) is another local legend and probably the closest thing you’ll get to a traditional Irish pub in Dubai. Located behind a cluster of high-rise buildings near Crowne Plaza Hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road, Fibbers is open every day from 8am until 2am, with a generous daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm.

Located in Club Vista Mare, a bustling beachside boardwalk with seven licensed restaurants and bars on Palm Jumeirah, The Tap House (+971 4 514 3778, thetaphouse.ae) is a cool gastropub with industrial-chic décor, an impressive menu of craft hops and a dozen draughts on tap. Pull up a perch at the long bar, or sit outside on the terrace, and ask the sommelier to recommend a tipple.

With a long copper bar, dark wood floors and exposed stonework shipped straight from Scotland, Copper Dog (+971 4 559 5355, copperdog.ae) at Doubletree by Hilton in JBR has gone to great lengths to recreate the cosy country atmosphere of the original Scottish Highlands pub. There’s a huge menu of drams, plus craft hops, hearty pub grub and live music.

beat the heat With Burj Khalifa basically in its back garden, Treehouse (taxi: Taj Dubai, +971 4 438 3100) has unbeatable views from its air-conditioned tent pitched on the leafy, third-floor terrace during Ramadan. Wooden floors and comfy sofas create an intimate loungebar feel and there’s shisha, board games and à la carte dining with a tasty menu of light bites.

Alongside its ultra-glam mahogany wood-finished walls and deep plum furniture, Vii Dubai (taxi: Conrad Hotel, +971 50 169 6777) transforms into a luscious greenhouse throughout the month of Ramadan. The resident DJ will be playing deep, tech and soulful house every Thursday and Friday from 10.30pm until 3.00am, with shisha available in the adjacent lounge bar.

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#HOLIDAY

From amazing architecture to sweeping sandscapes, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have lots of memories of your time in Dubai to share via social media. Here are some of our favourite Instagram snaps of the city. Be sure to share your #MyDubai moments, too

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4. Photo credit: @_farismm Another sensational sunset at Dubai's vibrant marina district.

5. Photo credit: @d.thorsen Stop by City Walk to check out Dubai's gorgeous graffiti art.

6. Photo credit: @chrissified The world's tallest tower looks stunning from any angle.

7. Photo credit: @khaled_a_hassan_1

1. Photo credit: @robstrok Dubai is a fascinating mix of past and present.

2. Photo credit: @hotelsbygmr83 Relax by the beach, with the beautiful Dubai Marina as your backdrop.

3. Photo credit: @aljvd Go kayaking on Hatta Dam or just admire the view.

The famous Atlantis, The Palm offers a world of adventure.

8. Photo credit: @arabianadventures Explore the neighbourhoods of old Dubai with Arabian Adventures.

9. Photo credit: @aljvd Dubai's coastline offers an incredible Instagram opportunities.

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