DXB City Expert - December'16

December 2016

The insider’s guide to Dubai’s must-have visitor experiences Restaurants From fine dining to the coolest cafés Tours Let those in the know showcase their city Nightlife Where to begin 2017 with a bang Shopping Must-see souks to label-loaded mega-malls

Welcome Note

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DXB City Expert

EDITORIAL Editorial Director John Thatcher Contributing Editor Lara Brunt Sub-Editor Emma Laurence

ART Art Director Andy Knappett Designer Emi Dixon

COMMERCIAL Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Commercial Director Rawan Chehab Business Development Manager Rabih El Turk Sales Manager Lisa Price

PRODUCTION Production Manager Muthu Kumar

A WA R M

To

DUBAI We know it can feel a little overwhelming when you first set foot in Dubai.

How exactly do you explore this ultra-modern metropolis? Where do you start?

We love Dubai and we want to ensure that you feel the same, which is why we decided to create this handy-sized, helpful guide to ease you on your way.

Rather than present you with a long list of recommendations that would take you the duration of your holiday to read, our Dubai-based team of in-the-know writers have cherry-picked the city’s best bits – leaving you free to simply enjoy it.

Inside this guide you’ll find insider knowledge on everything from the best restaurants with a view and tips on where to shop for clothes made by the finest local fashion designers, to the coolest clubs and top-notch family entertainment.

We’ll also tell you which of the many organised tours are the best to take to see all of this city’s ample attractions.

All that remains is for us to wish you the holiday of a lifetime. Go get it…

JOHN THATCHER Editorial Director DXB City Expert

Cover image: Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens

Experience the Ultimate High Take advantage of the perfect weather and enjoy drinks, shisha and Asian inspired cuisine at Zephyr, the highest rooftop restaurant and lounge in Dubai.

Kick back and relax with spectacular panoramic views of Burj Khalifa, the Arabian Gulf and Downtown Dubai.

HAP PY HOU R 5 pm to 7 pm

For more information, call +971 4 506 9600 or visit warwickhotels.com/dubai #WarwickDubai

Contents

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DXB City Expert

The

CONTENTS 5

ON ARRIVAL All you need to know when you touch down in Dubai.

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SO THIS IS DUBAI A little local knowledge to help ease your way into the city.

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TOP OF THE TOURS Let the experts take the strain out of sightseeing.

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WHERE TO EAT Ranging from fine dining and ‘only in Dubai’ eats to family favourites and best budget options, this chapter comes stuffed with our recommendations.

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WHERE TO SHOP With outlet malls and open-air markets, there’s more to Dubai’s shopping scene than merely the world’s biggest mall. Credit cards at the ready…

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WHAT TO DO Underwater, on the water, in the sand and in the snow: there are myriad ways to enjoy yourself in this city. We’ve selected the best.

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WHERE TO GO From beach bars and rooftop lounges to speakeasies and superclubs, we hope you’ve packed your dancing shoes – you’re going to need them.

Produced for dnata Travel by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors contained in DXB City Expert.

feeling like a VIP that’s Kilban’s marhaba effect The difference is the staff. So caring.

I’m just an ordinary traveller but marhaba makes me feel like a VIP. With people like this, there is only one way you can go—up, up and up!

Kilban

Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet & greet services in Dubai and Bahrain.

Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport something to look forward to.

You can also relax in style, no matter what your airline or class of travel, at our lounges in Dubai and Bahrain.

Find your marhaba effect at marhabaservices.com

meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service

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On Arrival

DXB City Expert

On

ARRIVAL You’re almost there now, but before you head off to your hotel here’s a little something to help you on your way

LEAVING THE AIRPORT There are ample public taxis available at the airport, though there’s every chance you’ll have to queue to get one.

As you do so, you may notice a line of estate-sized pink-roof taxis. These are exclusively for women and families, and are helmed by female drivers only.

There are also taxis specifically for special-needs travellers – both can be requested from the taxi-line attendant once you’re at the front of the queue.

Your fare will include an airport pickup fee of Dhs25, which is the amount the meter will start from.

Dubai International Airport is also serviced by the Dubai Metro.

However, each passenger is restricted to two pieces of luggage, one of which shouldn’t be bigger than hand luggage.

Trains run approximately every 10 minutes and depart from Terminals 1 and 3 – just follow the signs.

Trains start at 5.50am (5.30am on Thursdays), and stop at midnight (1am on Thursdays and Fridays). But be aware that trains start at only 10am on Fridays. There are just two lines, so it’s easy to work out your route, and you’ll likely find taxis at each station to take you to your specific address.

If you’re intending to hire a car on arrival in Dubai, you’ll find all the major operators are present at the airport.

Chief among them is Hertz, which is

available at both Terminal 1 (+971 4 224 5222) and Terminal 3 (+971 4 220 3013) of Dubai International Airport.

Drivers must be aged 21 or over and be in possession of a valid driving licence from their home country. Remember that driving in Dubai is on the righthand side of the road.

HIRE A HELPING HAND FROM MARHABA If you’re reading this before you travel to Dubai, or if you haven’t yet planned your return journey to the airport, it’s well worth checking out the services of Marhaba (+971 4 389 8989, marhabaservices.com).

On arrival, their always-smiling staff greet you as you come off the aircraft, before ferrying you by buggy to passport control and whizzing you past the queues (which can be long) to their dedicated counters and beyond, where a porter will collect your luggage.

Services are tailored to suit individuals, families and those with specific needs.

Fast-tracking through airport procedures is a feature of any return journey you make with Marhaba, too, while you can also book a chauffeur pick-up from anywhere in Dubai and enjoy the hospitality of their airport lounge – and its complimentary food and drink – as you await boarding.

HAVE A WORD Although English is spoken and understood pretty much everywhere you’ll go in Dubai, it’s polite to try a little Arabic when you show your passport on arrival. If Arabic’s not your native tongue, here are a few helpful words…

Marhaba : Hello Sabah al-khayr : Good morning As-salaam alaikum : Peace be upon you Ma’assalama : Goodbye Minfadlak : Please Shukran : Thank you

GET CONNECTED Before departing the airport you may wish to buy a sim card that’s designed for visitors to use while in the UAE. It costs Dhs35 and provides you with the Visitor Mobile Line (VML), allowing you to make calls – or text – while in Dubai at a fraction of the cost you’ll pay for roaming. You can buy it from the du shop in the arrivals hall of both Terminal 1 and Terminal 3. Once purchased you can top it up by buying prepaid cards at various convenient locations across the city, including du shops. See du.ae for a list of locations.

On Arrival

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DXB City Expert

The Beach at JBR

DINE AND DRINK ON US MMI, Sirocco and Arabian Adventures, in partnership with dnata Travel, have teamed up to offer DXB City Expert readers fabulous added value when they dine at any one of an array of restaurants across Dubai. From buy one get one free on all main meals, to a complimentary bottle of wine when you order two main meals, we’re here to ensure your holiday dirhams stretch that little bit further. You’ll find your exclusive voucher book inside this copy of the magazine. But if it’s missing, fear not. Simply head to our DXB City Expert tourist information kiosk at The Beach, JBR, and ask for a replacement. Bon appétit.  Deira and Bur Dubai Mumtaz Mahal, Arabian Courtyard Hotel & Spa Offer: Receive a free glass of house wine for every Dhs100 spent Legends Restaurant, Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club Offer: 50% off on main courses for up to four people  Downtown Dubai Karma Café, Souk al Bahar Offer: Receive a glass of house wine when you purchase a main course

JOIN US ON THE BEACH Our first DXB City Expert tourist information kiosk has opened at The Beach, JBR. Staffed by our friendly team of experts, they are on hand to not only answer any questions you have about this amazing city of ours, but also to book all your must-have experiences. “The kiosk is a real one-stop shop for visitors, providing information on the must-see-and-do

attractions and activities in the city, and selling a wide and varied selection of tours and safaris covering sea, air, city and desert. Additionally, tickets to top attractions and for Dubai’s hop-on, hop-off bus will also be available,” says Simon Mead, manager of operations at Arabian Adventures.

The Beach at JBR is one of Dubai’s go-to areas for both visitors and residents alike, offering a wide variety of alfresco cafés and restaurants alongside boutiques and a cinema.

The kiosk is open from 10am to 10pm each day of the week.

 Mall of the Emirates Apres Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals  Souk Madinat Jumeirah The Meat Co. Offer: Purchase any two main meals and receive a complimentary bottle of house wine Left Bank Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals

Friday 1920s Brunch Swing by for an exciting brunch experience on top of the city with spiked classics, live jazz and the finest steak, grape and bubbly.

12.30pm to 3.45pm | From AED 450 per person JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay | T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

On Arrival

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DXB City Expert

 Dubai International Terminal 1 The Kitchen by Wolfgang Puck Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals The Draft House Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals The Noodle House Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals Giraffe Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals  Dubai International Terminal 3 Heineken Lounge Concourse A, B Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals Jack’s Bar & Grill Concourse A Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals  Palm Jumeirah Bidi Bondi Offer: Buy one get one free on all main meals  Jumeirah Beach and Dubai Marina The Hub, Sofitel Dubai Offer: Buy one get one free on selected beverages  Jumeirah Lake Towers Spice & Ice, Cluster A Offer: Order two main courses and get a complimentary bottle of red or white wine

Left Bank

 Emirates Hills and The Meadows Le Classique, Emirates Golf Club Offer: 50% off on main courses for up to four people

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

SHOW SOME RESPECT

IS

Dubai is a very warm and welcoming city, but like anywhere else you travel in the world you’ll want to show respect for local sensibilities.

These are a few things to keep in mind while enjoying your holiday…

DU B A I Chapter ONE

You’ve read about it, seen the pictures and marvelled from afar.

Now you’re here. Our inside track will get you up to speed so you can get on with having the holiday of a lifetime

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THIS GREAT CITY OF OURS With a skyline dominated by towering skyscrapers and now-iconic structures like Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa, it’s hard to imagine that Dubai was once little more than a fishing village.

The Bani Yas tribe settled next to Dubai Creek in 1833, and the area soon became a hub for fishing, pearling and trading. The discovery of ‘black gold’ in 1966 triggered Dubai’s remarkable transformation into the glittering city of today.

In 1971, Dubai joined with six neighbouring emirates – Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujairah and (in 1972) Ras al-Khaimah – to form the United Arab Emirates, and this union is celebrated each year on 2 December. Under the late Sheikh Zayed, the first president of the UAE, the country blossomed and has developed into one of the world’s most prosperous, while still remaining true to its rich heritage of Bedouin, Islamic and Emirati cultures.

Today, Dubai is home to over 200 nationalities that are attracted by its opportunities and lifestyle. Such has been the city’s rapid expansion beyond

its Creek origins that residents now commonly refer to ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, with the old part encompassing Dubai Creek and the wider Bur Dubai area in the north of the city, and the new part featuring the strictly modern superstructures – Downtown Dubai, Dubai Marina and all – that spread for miles into the south of the city.

THE BASICS, IN NO MORE THAN 140 CHARACTERS The Climate Expect daytime temperatures around the 25°C mark but don’t be surprised if there’s an overcast or – shock, horror – a rainy day in December.

The Currency The UAE Dirham is what you’ll use.

Notes come in 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5, and their value is pegged at Dhs3.67 = USD1.

The Weekend The UAE’s weekend is Friday/Saturday.

Dubai Metro services start at 10am on Fridays and 5.50am on Saturdays, and run until 1am on weekends.

Be sure to refrain from over-the-top public displays of affection, even when in nightclubs.

Do not succumb to the urge to make rude hand gestures to other people – doing so could land you in hot water.

Dress modestly when outside the confines of your hotel, particularly if you’re heading to a mall, where women shouldn’t leave their shoulders bare.

Taking photos of some government buildings and all military sites is strictly prohibited. Stick to the tourist attractions when you’re choosing a background for selfies.

Don’t drink alcohol, or be seen to be overly intoxicated, outside of licensed premises. Unruly behaviour isn’t tolerated.

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its af filiates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reser ved

EXPERIENCE THE MULTIPLE AWARD-WINNING FRIDAY BRUNCH AT TRAITEUR Lo c ated am o n g s t t h e M o o r ish d om e s of Pa rk Hya t t D ub a i, Tra it e ur of fers a u ni qu e di n i n g e x p e r ie nc e . The F r id ay Brunch of fe rs d ine rs t he cha nce t o

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te am o f s o c ia b l e c h e fs . W it h st unning cre e k vie ws a nd a fa nt a sti c DJ, i t i s the i deal br un c h to e x p e r ie n c e f o r fr iend s a nd fa m ily in se a rch of a we e kend escape.

Fo r m o re i nfor mation contact +971 4 602 1814 or vis it duba i.pa r k.h y att.co m

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DXB City Expert

SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD

Jumeirah Beach Road, as well as trendy shops, cafés and restaurants at popular new developments such as The Galleria Mall, BoxPark and City Walk. Jumeirah Mosque is another reason to visit.

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers guided tours every Saturday to Thursday at 10am (adults, Dhs20; under-12s, free).

So This Is Dubai

Get Your Bearings

Palm Jumeirah

Throughout this guide we’ve referenced areas of Dubai, which to the first-time visitor may mean nothing at all. To help, here’s the skinny on the city’s districts you’ll most likely encounter...

DOWNTOWN DUBAI Home to the world’s largest mall, tallest tower and biggest fountain, Dubai’s showpiece city centre is as glitzy as it gets. Lined with palm trees that twinkle with thousands of fairy lights, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard boasts five-star hotels, restaurants, a San Francisco-style tram and a constant flow of supercars.

Another popular spot is Souk Al Bahar (‘market of the sailor’), a waterfront entertainment and dining hub overlooking The Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa.

DUBAI MARINA AND JBR In the south of the city, this buzzing district includes a man-made marina and a forest of skyscrapers that stretch from Sheikh Zayed Road to Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). Brimming with hotels and restaurants, there are two beachfront promenades, The Walk and The Beach at JBR, packed with family-friendly eateries. You’ll also find the Marina Mall and the Dubai Tram, which connects to Dubai Metro and the Palm Jumeirah monorail.

BUR DUBAI AND DEIRA Flanking the southern side of Dubai Creek, Bur Dubai is the oldest part of the city. Here you’ll find the majority of the city’s historical sites, including Dubai Museum and Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House, as well as restored wind-tower houses and a textile souk. Over the water, Deira is a melting pot of Arab, Asian and African cultures and a great spot for cheap street eats, as well as shopping in the Gold Souk and Spice Souk.

The 8km stretch of the main highway between Business Bay and the World Trade Centre roundabout is popular with tourists, expats and locals alike, thanks to the clutch of five-star hotels including the Fairmont Dubai, The Conrad and H Hotel, which are easily reached by metro (stations line Sheikh Zayed Road). Just past the roundabout is the brilliant Zabeel Park, one of the city’s largest green spaces.

JUMEIRAH Home to sprawling villas and excellent beaches, this low-rise suburb overlaps with Umm Suqeim (where you’ll find Burj Al Arab and Madinat Jumeirah, an arabesque-inspired hotel, dining and entertainment complex). Jumeirah is known for boutique shopping along

PALM JUMEIRAH Even if you’re not staying here, you can still visit the man-made island that’s become a symbol of Dubai.

A monorail runs along the length of the trunk to Atlantis, The Palm, where you can spend the day at Aquaventure Waterpark. Meanwhile, the 11km-long crescent has a string of five-star hotels with restaurants and spas open to non-guests.

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

10 of the best ways to enjoy the city BEST FOR… FEELING FESTIVE You’ll see every hotel and major mall decked out in decorations throughout December, but you want a bit of snow to feel fully festive, right? Head to Ski Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com) for skiing, sledging and a visit to Santa’s Grotto, where the main man will be hanging out from 11 to 24 December.

BEST FOR… INDUCING INSTAGRAM ENVY Located on The Terrace at Burj Al Arab, which stretches 100m out to sea, Scape Restaurant & Bar (+971 4 301 7600, jumeirah.com) offers Insta opportunities galore, served up with a side order of fresh and light Californiainspired cuisine. Go on, make your mates back home green with envy.

BEST FOR… MAXING OUT YOUR CREDIT CARD In a city famous for its malls, shopping is probably high on your agenda. The annual month-long Dubai Shopping Festival (mydsf.ae) starts on 26 December with mega discounts, raffles, concerts and activities to be found inside Dubai’s many malls.

BEST FOR… HORSERACING FANS Witness Dubai’s obsession with all things equestrian at Meydan Racecourse. The horse-racing season is in full swing this month with fortnightly race meetings on 1, 15 and 29 December. The racing kicks off at 6.30pm and general admission tickets are free. Visit dubaiworldcup.com

BEST FOR… THAT ‘ONLY IN DUBAI’ MOMENT Where else but Dubai can you dine in an underwater restaurant in a lost city-inspired hotel on a man-made island? Ossiano (+971 4 426 2626, atlantisthepalm.com) serves up awardwinning seafood as hundreds of marine creatures glide past your table.

Bateaux Dubai

BEST FOR… SUNDOWNERS WITH A VIEW Jetty Lounge (+971 4 399 9999, oneandonlyresorts.com) at One&Only Royal Mirage is one of the city’s best-looking beach bars. With tables on the sand, it’s a top spot to watch the sunset while you sip cocktails and gaze at the twinkling lights of Palm Jumeirah. And with the weather just about perfect right now, there’s no better time to head here.

BEST FOR… LOVERS OF WORLD CINEMA Back for its 13th year, Dubai International Film Festival (dubaifilmfest.com) runs from 7 to 14 December at Madinat Jumeirah, with more than 140 features, shorts and documentaries from international and Arab filmmakers. Ticket packages start from Dhs275 for 10 screenings.

BEST FOR… GETTING A SENSE OF OLD DUBAI Wander around the atmospheric Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, home to narrow sikkas (lanes) and restored barjeels (wind towers), then take an abra across Dubai

Creek to explore the spice and gold souks of Deira. An abra ride costs just Dhs1 each way.

BEST FOR… ALFRESCO SHISHA Overlooking the yacht-filled marina, Urban Lounge (+971 4 446 6777, ihg. com) at InterContinental Dubai Marina has more than 15 flavours of shisha.

Served with Arabic coffee straight from a brass dallah pot, or cocktails if you prefer, you can also play board games as you listen to chilled-out tunes.

BEST FOR… CRUISING INTO THE NEW YEAR Spanning over four hours and featuring an epic eight-course à la carte dinner, live music and entertainment, Bateaux Dubai’s (jaresortshotels.com) New Year’s Eve cruise is a uniquely brilliant way to usher in 2017, with the added bonus of seeing some of the city’s best fireworks. Boarding is at 7.45pm and tickets are priced at Dhs1,300 per person including a glass of bubbly and unlimited house drinks and spirits. Or Dhs1,150 per person for soft drinks and Dhs495 for children (5-11 years).

Festive dinner

CRUISES

to make magical

MEMORIES

Cruise into the festive spirit with Bateaux Dubai With gourmet cuisine, beverage inclusive packages and live entertainment, Bateaux Dubai’s festive cruises are the perfect way to celebrate Christmas and New Year’s with friends, family and loved ones.

For bookings and more information, please call +971 4 814 5553 or email mail@bateauxdubai.com bateauxdubai.com

/bateauxdubai

@bateauxdubai

NEW EMIRATI RESTAURANT

THERE’S A NEW PLACE IN THE OLD TOWN WHERE CULTURE IS STILL ON THE MENU Aseelah at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek invites you to experience Emirati cuisine made with the freshest local ingredients in an authentic Old Dubai location. Book your table inside or on our terrace for a taste of the traditional from a menu featuring a selection of old favourites and modern gourmet interpretations. Shisha is also available.

Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek, Baniyas Road, Dubai

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So This Is Dubai

What’s on this month

DXB City Expert

Like Crazy, screening at Dubai International Film Festival

Party with locals and expats alike at these extravagant events

1-3 EMIRATES AIRLINE

DUBAI RUGBY SEVENS Over 100,000 fans gather across three fun-filled days to cheer on the world’s best Rugby Sevens players at this annual extravaganza. It’s part of the HSBC Sevens World Series and is a highlight of the Dubai sporting and expat social calendar.

From Dhs300, dubairugby7s.com

2UAE NATIONAL DAY Today the United Arab Emirates celebrates 45 years since its formation in 1971, with festivities taking place all over Dubai. Head to Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard to watch Dubai Police parade its famous supercar fleet and enjoy a spectacular fireworks display over at The Beach, JBR.

6-10 THE NUTCRACKER ON ICE The Imperial Ice Stars provide a festive treat for all ages as they tell the tale of Marie, whose favourite doll comes to life on Christmas Eve. Expect opulent costumes and special effects alongside aweinspiring acrobatics and worldclass ice dancing. Tickets from Dhs250, dubaiopera.com

7-14 DUBAI INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

The likes of George Clooney, Cate Blanchett, Tom Cruise, Emily Blunt and Jake Gyllenhaal have all walked the red carpet at previous editions of DIFF, which sees a diverse

selection of Arab and international film screenings take place at venues including Madinat Theatre, The Beach at JBR, and Vox Cinemas within Mall of the Emirates.

From Dhs35 for a regular screening; from Dhs100 for a red-carpet gala screening, dubaifilmfest.com

8-10 DUBAI WINTER FESTIVAL Get into the festive spirit at Media City Amphitheatre. Visit Santa’s Grotto, build a snowman, decorate a gingerbread house and enjoy carol singing and pantomime. Adults from Dhs70; children, Dhs40; underthrees, free, dubaiwinterfestival.com

16 SPINNEYS DUBAI 92 CYCLE CHALLENGE

2,500 cycling enthusiasts will take on this 92km challenge on the streets of Dubai. Off track, there’s always a buzz at the family-friendly cycle village, where you’ll find bouncy castles, rides and food stalls. Visit cyclechallenge.ae

26 Dec-28 Jan DUBAI SHOPPING FESTIVAL

15 ELTON JOHN LIVE

In addition to city-wide sales and discounts, this month-long celebration of shopping sees an array of events taking place across town, with the nightly fireworks always a highlight.

This year also features the ‘12-hour exclusive New Year shopping’ special, with leading brands slashing prices by up to 90%. See visitdubai.com

The legendary performer comes to town to play the Autism Rocks Arena as part of his Wonderful Crazy Night Tour. Expect his set to include a number of the biggest hits from his vast back catalogue. Tickets from Dhs295, dubai.platinumlist.net

If you’re in town and looking for somewhere to celebrate on 25 or 31 December, check out page 54 of ‘Where to Eat’, where you’ll find our tips for a fine festive lunch, and page 74 of ‘Where to Go’, for ideas on where to party

Top Of The Tours

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Top OF THE

TOURS Chapter T WO

Bags unpacked, sunblock slathered on, it’s time to get out and see what this city is all about. But with its climate dictating a dearth of paved walkways, Dubai isn’t a place you can easily explore on foot.

Luckily, our friends at Arabian Adventures and City Sightseeing have just the answer

DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

MORNING DUNE DRIVE WITH FAT BIKING There’s no better time to enjoy the magnificence of the desert than during the early hours. Explore the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve in a 4x4 and then try fat biking – so called because the bikes have threeinch-wide tyres that make it easier to cycle on the sand – as well as sandboarding and camel riding.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Morning dune drive in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Fat-bike desert cycling. No minimum fitness required (weather permitting) • Sandboarding (weather permitting) • Picnic breakfast in the desert • Opportunity to spot Arabian wildlife DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily

(half day, morning only) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Food and soft

drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Operates yearround; modest dress and sports shoes are recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation PRICING: Adult, Dhs285 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

CAMEL TREKKING IN DUBAI Venture into the vast Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve atop a legendary ‘ship of the desert’ – a one-humped Arabian camel – for your own Lawrence of Arabia adventure.

This trail-style guided camel ride takes place in the early morning, when the light is perfect for photographing the desert landscape and its unique flora and fauna.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Guided camel ride in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Picnic breakfast on a lakeshore with a glass of bubbly • Opportunity to learn about the dromedary camel and desert wildlife • Scenic photo opportunities DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily

(half day, morning only) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Food and

soft drinks; guided tour GOOD TO KNOW: Operates year-

round; maximum two guests per camel; modest dress and sports shoes are recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation PRICING: From Dhs300 per person To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

OVERNIGHT SAFARI Spend the night in a Bedouin camp accompanied by a million stars. Explore the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve by 4x4 and board a ‘ship of the desert’; pull up a cushion in the majlis and feast on grilled meats, fresh salads and Arabic sweets around the campfire; then retire to your comfortable tent. Awake to the smell of freshly brewed Arabic coffee and a piping-hot breakfast, then take a morning desert drive and ride a fat bike through the dunes.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Afternoon and morning dune driving • Opportunity to spot wildlife • Overnight ‘glamping’ with bathroom facilities • Dinner with select beverages • Cooked breakfast • Camel rides and fat biking • Falcon viewing DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily (overnight) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Food, soft drinks

and beverages; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Towels and linen provided; permanent showers and toilets on-site; modest dress is recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation PRICING: Dhs995 per person To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

TRADITIONAL DUBAI CIT Y TOUR While the modern city has only existed for little more than 40 years, Dubai has a rich history that blends Bedouin, Persian, Islamic and Emirati culture and traditions. This tour explores the intriguing old quarter of Al Fahidi, with its wind towers and historic fort, as well as the bustling Creek area and exotic souks.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Photo stop close to Burj Al Arab • Photo stop at Jumeirah Mosque • Drive by Zabeel Palace • Walk through Al Fahidi Cultural Neighbourhood • Visit to Dubai Museum • Traditional abra crossing over Dubai Creek • Walk through the Spice and Gold Souks DAYS OF OPERATION: Twice daily (half day,

morning/afternoon; Friday, afternoon only) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Modest clothing and walking

shoes are recommended LANGUAGES: English and German OTHER LANGUAGES: Japanese tours operate daily; French and Italian tours, Sunday and Wednesday afternoons; Russian tours, Saturday mornings and Tuesday afternoons; Mandarin tours, Monday and Thursday mornings; Portuguese and Spanish tours operate on Monday and Thursday and comprise a full-day tour of ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, including Burj Khalifa, At The Top PRICING: English/German, French/Italian and Russian tours: Adult, Dhs165; child, Dhs110.

Japanese tours: Adult, Dhs180; child, Dhs140.

Mandarin tours: Adult, Dhs175; child, Dhs110.

Portuguese/Spanish tours (including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket): Adult, Dhs495; child, Dhs395 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

CIT Y OF LIGHTS TOUR Watch Dubai transform into a sparkling city of lights during this evening City Sightseeing bus tour.

The Creek Route takes in the enchanting lights of Dubai Creek and the neon-lit commercial hubs of Deira and Bur Dubai, the oldest parts of the city, before heading into the heart of ‘new’ Dubai.

Meanwhile, the Contemporary Route showcases the city’s most strikingly illuminated modern buildings, including the glittering Burj Khalifa, Dubai Marina and the distinctive silhouette of Atlantis, The Palm.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Two sightseeing routes showcasing Dubai by night • See all the big sights including Burj Khalifa and Atlantis, The Palm • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary water DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily, 6pm-10pm WHAT’S INCLUDED: Hop-on, hop-off access

to all City Sightseeing buses on two routes for three hours GOOD TO KNOW: Tour is free when purchasing a 24hr, 48hr or 72hr City Sightseeing Dubai ticket; both routes are included in the ticket price and there is enough time to do both LANGUAGES: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian PRICING: Adult, Dhs145; child, Dhs75; family, Dhs365 (Child: 5-15 years; family: 2 adults + 2 children) To book, visit citysightseeing-dubai.com, or call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224)

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CIT Y SIGHTSEEING TOUR Discover Dubai at your own pace with City Sightseeing Dubai. This 'hop-on, hop-off' bus tour is the simplest concept: One ticket valid for 24 hours or more, over 40 bus stops spread on five routes citywide, and you decide when to ride, where to get off, and what to visit. Your ticket also includes lots of additional value: entry to seven museums, three boat rides, three walking tours, coffee, water and other discounts at various merchants. From the open top of a double decker bus there are no better views of this vibrant city, and they're complimented by commentary available in 13 languages.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Five sightseeing routes (including Global Village and Miracle Garden) • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary water • Entry to a number of museums and attractions (see below) DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily. Day tour:

9am-5.30pm WHAT’S INCLUDED: The 24hr ticket includes:

dhow cruise at both Dubai Marina and Dubai Creek; abra ride across Dubai Creek; entry to Dubai Museum and five others. The 48hr and 72hr tickets also include entry to Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo and a ride on City Sightseeing Sharjah and Ajman (please check with drivers for timing of this service) GOOD TO KNOW: Before your 24hr ticket has expired, you can upgrade to a 48hr ticket for an extra Dhs55 LANGUAGES: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian PRICING: 24hr ticket: Adult, Dhs240; child, Dhs100; family, Dhs580. 48hr ticket: Adult, Dhs295; child, Dhs130; family, Dhs720. 72hr ticket: Adult, Dhs340; child, Dhs170; family, Dhs850 (Child: 5-15 years; family: 2 adults + 2 children) To book, visit citysightseeing-dubai.com, or call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224)

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NIGHT SAFARI IN DUBAI Discover the desert’s amazing nocturnal wildlife during this offroad drive through the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. Equipped with a spotlight and night-vision binoculars, your guide will show you how to track animals such as scorpions using a black light, which causes their exoskeletons to glow. Then enjoy drinks beneath a canopy of stars as you spot constellations and planets.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Night-time nature drive through the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Wildlife spotting and tracking with a knowledgable guide • Drinks and star-gazing at the desert sky with a telescope DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily

(half day; night-time) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Fully guided tour;

soft drinks and selected beverages GOOD TO KNOW: Operates yearround; sports shoes and a jacket are recommended (the desert can be cool at night); a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation PRICING : From Dhs260 per person To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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SUNDOWNER DUNE DINNER SAFARI When it comes to the quintessential desert experience, this bestselling tour is hard to beat. Venture into the enigmatic Arabian desert and watch the sun set over endless dunes, enjoy an Arabic feast under the stars at a traditional Bedouin-style camp, and sample desert traditions with camel riding and henna painting.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Dune driving through the desert • Sunset photo stop in the dunes • Arabic-style three-course buffet with unlimited hops and grape beverages • Camel rides, falcon viewing, sandboarding, henna painting and aromatic shisha • Belly-dancing performance • Stargazing • All inclusive – no hidden costs • Optional camel-milk chocolates and photos are available for purchase • A Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari and City Sightseeing combo ticket is available OPTIONAL UPGRADES: Book a private

4x4 vehicle or add a sandboarding experience before the Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily (late afternoon until evening) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Food, soft drinks and beverages; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Operates year-round; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation PRICING: Adult, Dhs375; child (aged 5-11), Dhs300 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

DESERT DUNE BUGGIES Those looking for the ultimate off-road experience will love this exhilarating adventure tour. After leaving Dubai in the morning or afternoon, you’ll head into the empty desert where the off-road dune buggies will be waiting.

Then it’s a roller-coaster of a ride over the dunes in the fully automatic fourseater vehicles that were built for fun.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Fully guided tour along the dunes • Driving and safety instruction provided • All dune buggies are four-wheeldrive, fully automatic with seat belts, roll cages and off-road suspension • Driver- and passenger-experience options are available • Shared or private buggy options • Fantastic desert photo opportunities DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily (half day, morning/afternoon) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Soft drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Sports shoes are recommended; operates year-round; drivers must be aged 18 or over and carry a valid UAE or international driver’s licence; passengers must be aged six or over PRICING: 30 minutes’ driving time (sharing), Dhs695 per person. Passenger (sharing), Dhs300 per person. Private buggy (for up to four people), Dhs1,500

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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‘NEW’ DUBAI CIT Y TOUR With its man-made islands, audacious architecture and futuristic skyline, Dubai has more than its fair share of iconic landmarks, and you can tick them off your list during this tour. Ride the monorail to Atlantis, The Palm, explore the buzzing Dubai Marina area, window-shop at The Dubai Mall and admire the view from the world’s tallest tower.

HIGHLIGHTS:

• Visit to The Lost Chambers Aquarium at Atlantis, The Palm • One-way ride on The Palm Jumeirah monorail • Drive through Dubai Marina and the Jumeirah Beach Residence area • Afternoon visit to The Dubai Mall • Visit to Burj Khalifa (with option to include the observation-deck ticket) • Free pick-up; tour ends at The Dubai Mall DAYS OF OPERATION: Daily (half day, morning;

Wednesday and Friday, evening) WHAT’S INCLUDED: Fully guided tour GOOD TO KNOW: Operates year-round;

modest dress is recommended LANGUAGES: English and German OTHER LANGUAGES: French/Italian and Russian tours operate on Monday and Thursday mornings. Portuguese and Spanish tours operate on Mondays and Thursdays and comprise a full-day tour of ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, including Burj Khalifa, At The Top PRICING: English/German; French/Italian and Russian tours: Adult, Dhs225; child, Dhs175.

(Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket: adult, Dhs350; child, Dhs300.) Portuguese/ Spanish tours: Adult, Dhs395; child, Dhs320.

(Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket: adult, Dhs495; child, Dhs395) To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Chapter THREE

Eat

Dubai’s cultural diversity is reflected in its culinary mosaic of fantastic restaurants – from the best Indian food this side of the subcontinent to sleek Japanese eateries and authentic Arabic mezze. It’s little wonder that world-renowned chefs are falling over themselves to open venues in the city. There is something for every taste in Dubai, so tuck in

WHAT’S NEW IN TOWN? A huge opening on Palm Jumeirah is Club Vista Mare, a Dhs120 million beachfront dining and leisure complex where you can take your pick from seven new and unique restaurants, all set directly on the beach with views of The Palm’s eastern shoreline and some of city’s world-famous landmarks. Top picks here include Aji (+971 4 552 0244, aji.ae), which serves up a superb fusion of Japanese and Peruvian dishes – great cocktails, too – and Ibn Albahr (+971 4 5539575, ibnalbahr.me), where you can enjoy fabulously fresh fish and succulent lobster.

Opening on 1 December, the sprawling new beachfront resort of Jumeirah Al Naseem, overlooking Burj

Al Arab, will have around a dozen restaurants and bars.

The one that’s caught our eye is Il Borro Tuscan Bistro Dubai (+971 4 366 8888, jumeirah.com), the first international outpost of the famous Tuscan estate owned by the Ferragamo fashion family. The medieval village in Italy features a five-star resort and an acclaimed bistro supplied by produce from the estate, including organic olive oil, honey and grape. The restaurant concept in Dubai follows the same formula, serving up fantastic Tuscan produce in a casual setting by the resort’s Turtle Lagoon (which provides an idyllic temporary home for recovering and rescued sea turtles), with an emphasis on fresh fish, aged meats and fine cheeses.

If you’re keen to dine with the feel of sand between your toes, book a table at Fish Beach Taverna (+971 4 511 7139, fish-dubai.com). Specialising in seafood and with a rustic Mediterranean feel, the restaurant can be found on the water’s edge at Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina and has tables set directly on the sand. The focus is on wild, cold-water fish from the Turkish seas – Aegean, Black and Marmara – with fresh produce and ingredients handpicked in Turkey and flown over to Dubai. Simple, unfussy and amazingly atmospheric.

Hailing from New York, Big Daddy’s (+971 42252470, bigdaddysnyc.com) is a family-friendly diner in Burjuman Centre with bright neon signs and pop-culture memorabilia emblazoned

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ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Where possible we’ve included a website, should you wish to look at menus and prices before heading out.

And, of course, a phone number if you want to book ahead. While only including those places we know and recommend, we’ve also included a range of options price-wise, from restaurants that will cause your bank manager’s heart to skip a beat to the too cheap to be true – and all that falls in-between.

Denotes discount available using enclosed ‘Dine in Dubai’ voucher offers

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on the walls and retro Formica tables and comfy booths lining the room. The all-day menu features huge portions of American favourites such as Southern fired chicken, sticky buffalo wings, milkshakes and ice-cream sundaes, as well as indulgent breakfast dishes such as waffles stuffed with toasted marshmallows and pancakes so big they hang off your plate. Your waistline won’t thank you, but your kids will.

The kids will also love Walnut Grove (+971 4 344 4441), where in addition to choosing from a fine and varied menu, they’ll be given dough to roll their own cookies, which the restaurant kitchen will cook for them. Mums and dads will find equal favour with the pizzas, burgers and salads.

A TRUE TASTE OF THE EMIRATES Considering all the many colourful cuisines Dubai has to offer, it might come as a surprise that good Emirati food is not so easy to come by.

However, slowly but surely more and more authentic Emirati restaurants are cropping up across town.

An enduring favourite is Al Fanar (+971 4 232 9966, alfanarrestaurant. com), located along Canal Walk in Festival City. You can dine outside on floor cushions in the traditional majlis or at a table in the central courtyard area, which looks like a traditional Emirati home. The food is fresh and hearty with dishes such as chicken machboos, grilled shaari fish and jesheed (baby shark with onions and punchy spices).

Another place that has started to pull in its fair share of local Emiratis (always a good sign) is Al Barza (+971 4 343 5310) on Jumeirah Beach Road.

The setting is a modern take on the traditional architecture of the region, but the food is undeniably authentic – here you can try camel meat, at its best in a burger.

Camel’s also on the menu at Aseelah (+971 4 205 7333, radissonblu.com/ hotel-dubaideiracreek) in the Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek. In addition to traditional staples (like samak, a local fish in gravy served

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with date rice) are dishes made using local ingredients (including camel stew and Arabian lobster).

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers interactive ‘cultural meals’ – so named because guests are encouraged to ask questions on anything that relates to the Emirati culture – prepared by local chefs in order to preserve the traditions and customs of the Bedouin culture.

WIDER (AND WONDERFUL) ARABIC While Emirati food may be thin on the ground, wider Arabic certainly isn’t. Famed Lebanese import Em Sherif (+971 4 424 3000, emsherif. com), which you’ll find at ground level of The Address Downtown Dubai, offers superb views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain to add to a fixed-price dinner menu (Dhs320), which sees hot and cold mezzes, mains of tender, charcoalgrilled meats, and desserts arrive at your table in a near-endless flow.

Ayamna (+971 4 426 1166, atlantis thepalm.com) is another top choice for Lebanese food in a classy setting.

Interiors are opulent and airy, with a grand staircase, beautiful black and white tiles and an open kitchen, while the menu includes both traditional and more contemporary dishes such as shrimp kunafa – delicious za’atarmarinated prawns wrapped in kunafa dough – and a rich date pudding with salted-caramel sauce.

Also a hit with Dubai’s sizeable Lebanese community is Al Falamanki (alfalamanki.com), an outpost of one of Beirut’s most famous restaurants.

Like the original, this sprawling Jumeirah Beach Road branch features indoor and outdoor areas, homely décor and a soft soundtrack of oldschool Arab music. On the menu are hot and cold mezze, salads, grills and manakeesh, along with a selection of shisha. The done thing here is to order a load of dishes to share and settle in for a game of backgammon.

Meanwhile, Olea (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of

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the Emirates prides itself on authentic cuisine, thanks to its 14-strong team of chefs from Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Palestine. The relaxed space features a lovely outdoor terrace and menu highlights include the lamb kofta, served on a 1.5m-long skewer.

For an atmospheric Arabian Desert experience, head to Al Hadheerah (+971 4 809 6194, meydanhotels. com) at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort and Spa, about 30 minutes’ drive from Downtown Dubai. Designed like an oasis town, guests at the open-air restaurant are entertained under the stars by falconry displays, camel rides, belly dancers, musicians and a spinning tanoura dancer. There’s also an impressive buffet overflowing with hot and cold mezze.

CELEBRITY CHEFS’ RESTAURANTS Michelin-starred chefs have long been coming to Dubai to hawk their wares, though the vast majority are here in name only.

With possibly the best surname ever, Nathan Outlaw is the latest celebrity chef to land in Dubai. The Michelin-starred Brit has taken over the reins as chef patron at Al Mahara, the once-famed seafood restaurant at Burj Al Arab, renowned for its stunning floor-to-ceiling aquarium. Aptly named Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara (+971 4 301 7600, jumeirah.com), the new menu takes inspiration from Outlaw’s eateries in Cornwall and London, with signature dishes such as lobster risotto, crispy oysters and caviar, and the very British dessert sticky toffee pudding (Outlaw got the recipe from his daughter) all particular highlights.

One chef who always causes a stir in whichever city he appears is Jason Atherton, whose Marina Social (+971 4 446 6777, ihg.com) is at the InterContinental Dubai Marina.

Atherton’s Social concept has won an army of fans in London, and while the Dubai offshoot hasn’t yet hit the same dizzy heights, it’s still a great destination for dishes big on detail and flavour. Be sure to snag a table on the Marina-facing terrace.

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Laluz (+971 4 359 7777 laluzrestaurant.com) in the Four Seasons DIFC features a Catalonianinspired menu from Alain Devahive.

The Barcelona-born chef spent a decade working as Ferran Adrià’s righthand man at elBulli, further honing his craft in elBullitaller – the foodresearch laboratory set up by Adrià – and developing his own culinary techniques. The almost entirely Spanish-speaking staff will happily provide recommendations – just be sure to order the beef carpaccio with foie gras and truffle vinaigrette, and the Spanish baby lamb ribs.

In the same hotel, but with an altogether more casual vibe, Firebird Diner (+971 4 506 0000, firebirddubai. com) by Michael Mina is the American celebrity chef’s diner-inspired restaurant. While the food may be all about comfort – think Buffalo-style chicken wings and lobster pot pie – it’s nevertheless a good-looking joint, with plush white leather booths, neon signage and staff in stylish 1950s-style dress. Open from 7am (for breakfast) until midnight, and 3am on Thursdays and Fridays.

Nobu (+971 4 426 2000, atlantisthepalm.com) at Atlantis, The Palm, meanwhile, offers a Peruvian twist on dishes that have made the Japanese master chef’s restaurant chain the toast of celebrities the world over.

This Nobu also boasts a unique garden, which is a great place to dine under the stars, and a daily happy hour with 16 tapas-style dishes to choose from, including yellowtail tartare and Wagyu beef gyoza, and cocktails, hops and grape by the glass from Dhs30.

Also on Palm Jumeirah is STAY by Yannick Alléno (+971 4 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com) at One&Only The Palm. The restaurant’s interior drips with opulence, which is matched by the elaborate, indulgent dishes on offer, such as roasted milk-fed veal tenderloin or spit-roasted whole sea bass. Serious foodies should opt for the signature Extractions Pairing menu; instead of using traditional methods of making sauces, Alléno spent a whole two years developing

a new way to prepare sauces that results in incredibly intense flavours.

For a luxe, modern dining experience from the subcontinent, head to Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

The menu sings with a cacophony of flavour and creativity, and we heartily recommend the very well-priced grazing menu. Every bite is a delight.

PERFECT PIZZAS For a quick and casual meal, you can’t look past a pizza. And Dubai has plenty of places serving up crisp crusts and superlative sourdough bases, with nary a pineapple in sight.

You’ll find two of our favourite spots

DXB City Expert

for a superb slice within malls. First up is Eataly (800 328 259, eataly.ae), an authentic, bustling homage to all things Italian (edible, at least) on the lower ground floor of The Dubai Mall. Its simple margherita is so good, the tomato sauce so rich and flavoursome, you may well forgo fancy toppings for evermore.

Over at The Galleria Mall, there’s Taste of Italy by Heinz Beck (+971 4 343 8292, tasteofitalybyheinzbeck. com) – he of the three-Michelin-starred La Pergola restaurant in Rome – which serves up the most incredibly light bases, best topped with fresh, peppery rocket and full-flavoured mushrooms.

For a crisp, yet foldable New York-style pie that pays tribute to its Neapolitan roots, say hi to The Pizza

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DXB City Expert

ASK A TOP CHEF Aabhas Mehrotra, Tesoro at Taj Dubai My favourite place to dine in Dubai – besides Taj Dubai, of course – has to be Marina Social (+971 4 446 6777, ihg. com). Great food, amazing cocktails, and the tapas-style menu is perfect for family and friends. The space is aesthetically appealing, too, with a beautiful view from the balcony.

Guys (800 843 4897, thepizzaguys.ae) at Bay Avenue in Business Bay. There are five signature pizzas to choose from, all of which are hand-tossed and finished with Italian extra-virgin olive oil, fresh basil and parmigiano reggiano. Our tip? Pull up a stool at the communal counter and order The Godfather (Dhs60) with Wagyu-beef meatballs and melted fior di latte mozzarella. Bellissimo.

While DIFC’s funky food marketcum-restaurant-cum-wine bar Bazxar (+971 4 355 1111, bazxar.com) serves a mashup of different cuisines, we recommend its thin-crust pizzas topped with simple ingredients like tomato, burrata and basil (with a slug of quality olive oil for good measure). They’re also great value, especially for DIFC and

particularly on Wednesdays from 4pm to 11pm, when you can get a pizza and a glass of grape for Dhs50.

LOVELY LATIN AMERICAN There is currently fierce competition in Dubai for the tag of the city’s best Peruvian restaurant, and in the thick of it is Totora Cebicheria Peruana (+971 4 399 9666, totora.com) at Gate Village, DIFC. The fact that the kitchen staff – and ingredients – all hail from Peru shows through in dishes that delight. The spice-laden ceviches (ask for the De Barrio) burst with freshness and flavour, while the arroz con pato (a rice dish laced with succulent duck and coriander) is a not-to-be-missed main.

Given that the waiting staff know their

menu inside out, this is where your expert introduction to Peruvian food begins and ends.

While you’ll be right to love Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant. com) in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach (its Friday brunch is fabulous), we also have a thing for the more casual Garden (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

The chef is Peruvian, the staff are fully knowledgeable about what they’re serving, and the vibe relaxed.

Save room in your affections, too, for Inka (+971 4 346 9295, inkadubai. com) at Sofitel Downtown Dubai.

Its chilli-laced rocoto ceviche and chicken anticuchos are a bit special, as are the views of Dubai’s skyline.

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FOR SOME FAMILY FUN As mentioned elsewhere, The Beach at JBR is a great place to head for a family dinner. But there are other places worthy of your attention, particularly if your kids are that little bit older.

If you tend to take an age deciding what to order, then Burger & Lobster (+971 4 514 8838, burgerandlobster. com) at Burj Daman Building in the DIFC, is for you. Here, you essentially have three choices: burger, lobster roll, or whole lobster (steamed or grilled).

Despite the brevity of options, it’s actually difficult to choose as all three are top-notch, but a new menu will help you decide. From it, The Seven Samurai – wonderfully succulent chunks of lobster tossed in Asian spices and a secret-recipe mayo – is an incredibly good lobster roll, while the whole lobster easily betters those served at many a fine-dining venue, particularly if you have it steamed instead of grilled.

It’s also great fun to don a bib and get to work with your claw-cracker.

You’ll find Crab Tavern (+971 4 420 7489, crabtavern.ae) at Media One Hotel in Dubai Media City.

Unsurprisingly, crab is the house speciality here, and it comes served many ways – in pasta, as a fishcake, or, best of all, the soft-shell variety comes in a burger laced with red-pepper jam.

Of the same ilk is Claw BBQ (+971 4 432 2300, clawbbq.com) in Souk Al Bahar, although it’s a tad more raucous than Crab Tavern thanks to its eating competitions and live band.

They’ve been known to queue out of the door to snag a table at Slider Station (600 544 005, sliderstation. com) in The Galleria Mall, which proudly claims to be the world’s first conveyor-belt burger joint. It’s much more than that, offering a fun American tapas menu (the likes of sticky redonion rings and Coca-Cola-braised short ribs) to complement décor based on a 1940s American gas station. Grab a gourmet slider from its unique, if small, conveyor belt – we recommend the so-called Dangerous, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken, jalapeno and chimichurri aioli.

BRILLIANT BAR FOOD If you’re after a casual meal, Dubai’s bars and pubs offer a deluge of delicious light bites. For a laid-back affair, try Bidi Bondi (+971 4 427 0515, emiratesleisureretail.com) on the trunk of Palm Jumeirah. With national flags hanging from the walls and plenty of television screens, the massive menu features kangaroo sliders, Queensland lamb cutlets and New Zealand grass-fed rump steak alongside plenty of familiar bar staples.

Just a little further along from here you’ll find Beach House Cabana (+971 4 361 8856, emiratesleisureretail.com). Inside there are rattan barstools, an eclectic photo wall and colourful furniture, but outside is really where you want to be. Munch on crab cakes with ravigote sauce or try the old school fajitas served with heaps of guacamole, sour cream and salsa.

The recently reworked menu at Souk Madinat Jumeirah’s Left Bank (+971 4 368 6171, emiratesleisureretail.com) is reason enough to head here, but you'll also love its water-edge setting and often lively atmosphere. Of the new light bites, try the Cumberland veal scotch organic eggs. For the main, it has to be the 1.8kg of lamb shoulder, which has been slow cooked for over 12 hours.

Taking you from an early breakfast right through to the wee small hours, Fibber Magee’s (+971 4 332 2400, fibbersdubai.com) does proper pub grub with a menu chock-full of neverfail favourites: steak and mushroom pie, Irish stew and that all-important supersized burger. You’ll find the affectionately named ‘Fibbers’ in Saeed Tower One on Sheikh Zayed Road.

Moving Downtown, The Eloquent Elephant (+971 4 438 3131, tajhotels.com) at the Taj Dubai is a contemporary-styled gastropub complete with filament light bulbs, industrial fittings and leather bar stools. On the menu you’ll find posh grub including truffle chips, fresh burrata with heirloom tomatoes, and lamb pâté with Indian spices.

Take a break from shopping and

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visit Brunswick Sports Club (+971 56 404 0685, brunswicksc.com) at Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates for ribs, crisp squid, fried chicken and some of the best burgers in town.

Head here on Tuesdays for their Date Night Mate Night promotion and enjoy two burgers and a bucket of hops or house grape for Dhs199.

At the opposite end of Mall of the Emirates, Après (+971 4 341 2575, emiratesleisureretail.com) is the UAE’s only après-ski gastropub. With an international menu, there’s plenty to choose from, but the stone-fired pizzas are easily some of the best in the city. Couples should plump for the traditional Swiss-cheese fondue and tuck in while watching Ski Dubai’s snowboarders swoosh down the slopes in front of you.

DINE DOWNTOWN In addition to The Beach, Downtown Dubai is one of the few areas in the city where you can walk along the street or, in this case, wide boulevards lined by trees and lit by tiny, twinkling lights at night. You’ll pass an array of good-value independent restaurants as you saunter past the skyscrapers, serving up everything from gourmet burgers and American classics at Ashton Kutcher-owned Ketchup (+971 4 363 8595, ketchup.ae) to signature dishes like tea-smoked salmon and braised beef short ribs at Karma Cafe (+971 4 423 0909, karma-kafe.com) in Souk al Bahar.

Fümé Neighborhood Eatery (+971 4 456 8784, fume-eatery.com) at Manzil Downtown Dubai, meanwhile, boasts home-style cooking and a great alfresco terrace at this time of year.

And, new to the neighbourhood, Ting Irie (+971 4 557 5601 tingirie.com) at Downtown Boulevard offers up Jamaican staples courtesy of executive chef Craig Wong (of Jamaican-Chinese heritage), who has a CV boasting stints at multi-Michelin-starred restaurants Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Heston Blumental’s Fat Duck.

If you’re on the hunt for a meal you’ll remember long after your flight home,

it has to be La Serre Bistro (+971 4 428 6969, laserre.ae), located within the Vida Downtown Dubai. With great service, even better food and an atmosphere rarely bettered anywhere else in the city, this is another place where you should let the waiter order for you – just hope they mention the tagliatelle with black prawns and smoked duck. It’s divine.

SUCCULENT STEAK Most high-end hotels in Dubai are endowed with a high-end steakhouse offering premium beef staples like Wagyu that are far from cheap. But budget aside, there are some brilliant steaks to be had in this city.

Heading up our list of top tables is Prime68 (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, which is a cut above (pun intended). The premium beef here is sourced from choice suppliers across the globe and tastes superb, matched by the views from the 68th floor.

Accompaniments such as blacktruffle butter add a little extra oomph, while add-ons like lobster tail and crab cake are an indulgent treat.

Overlooking the famous horseracing track, Prime Steakhouse (+971 4 381 3111, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel is a destination restaurant that never fails to impress.

With plush décor, low lighting and a pianist tinkling on the ivories, this romantic spot serves only the finest cuts of premium beef sourced from around the world, including Tajima

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Wagyu and grain-fed Black Angus.

With throne-like chairs and informed service, you’ll feel like royalty.

Opened in 1995, JW’s Steakhouse (+971 4 607 7977, marriottdiningatjw. ae) is a Dubai institution, and rightly so. Chef Mohammad Iqbal has been in the kitchen from day one and knows each of his (many) regulars’ preferences by heart. It’s so popular that every table is adorned with brass plaques featuring the names of former diners, while one has also had a cocktail created in her honour, the ‘Christine’. With wood panelling, overstuffed armchairs, a long mahogany bar and Frank Sinatra tunes as your soundtrack, the styling of this classy steakhouse sets the tone. The menu features the finest cuts cooked to perfection, while seafood lovers can choose Maine lobsters and Dungeness crabs straight from the tank.

For somewhere lighter on your wallet, go to the ever-popular Western Steakhouse (+ 971 4 331 1111, ihg. com/crowneplaza) at Crowne Plaza Dubai. A fine slab of US-certified fillet and two side dishes costs a mere Dhs145, although to order it you’ll have to first pass up the opportunity of the prime rib – slow-roasted for 12 hours, it all but faints at the sight of your fork. Decisions, decisions.

Twenty minutes out of town is The Big Easy Bar & Grill (+971 4 425 1037, elsclubdubai.com) at The Els Club. It does a wonderful US tenderloin steak (as good as any you’ll find) for Dhs245 in a familyfriendly setting overlooking the greenery of the golf course.

Walnut Grove Where To Eat

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NICE AND SPICY An offshoot of its New York-based, Michelin star-toting sibling, Junoon (+971 4 405 2717, junoonrestaurants. com) at Shangri-La Dubai is a standout example of how, when it’s done as well as this, there are few finer cuisines than Indian as far as robust flavour combinations go. Let your waiter guide you through the musthaves (there are many) but have stern words if he fails to mention the shahi lamb shank – as tender a meat as you’ll ever try, it comes, teased from the bone at your table, with a beautifully balanced black cumin and rose curry.

You’ll also adore the macchi masala: pan-roasted, flake-at-the-touch-ofa-fork artic char that’s coated in a wonderfully flavoured green chilli and coriander marinade.

Tong Thai (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, meanwhile, showcases unique regional dishes alongside street-food favourites and authentic yet inventive classics. Regularly voted the best Thai restaurant in the city, signature curries like creamy panang kung with tiger prawns and gai phad ka-prao with chilli and hot basil pack plenty of depth and flavour, while classics like tom yum and pad see-eiw have been honed to perfection. The dining room itself is a glorious riot of red and orange hues, with glittering lanterns suspended from above and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Business Bay, albeit only from the fourth floor.

In JLT – an area that’s welcomed a handful of great mid-range restaurants in the last year or so – Spice & Ice (+971 50 552 9686) serves up contemporary Indian cuisine with a touch of molecular gastronomy. It’s a buzzy place with a DJ and impressive sharing-style dishes, such as fiery grilled lobster tail and laal maas served in a Kilner jar, which emits a lovely smoky aroma when opened. Don’t miss the nitrogen-filled dragon puffs, passion-fruit biscuits that, as the name suggests, make you puff like a dragon when you pop one into your mouth.

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BIG, BEAUTIFUL BURGERS Brilliant burgers aren’t confined to the menus of Dubai’s hotel-based restaurants. In fact, the city’s best burgers are served in standalone venues. This is certainly true of Burger Fuel (+971 4 445 8220, burgerfuel. com), which has various branches across the city – the best of which, due to it being beside the sea, is at The Walk, JBR. The concept is 100% New Zealand grass-fed beef, 150g of which is chargrilled to perfection and placed within a wholemeal bun.

Thereafter, you can pick multiple extras to stuff inside.

The emphasis at Burger Joint New York (+971 4 344 4459, burgerjointny.com), which you’ll find at City Walk, is on quality alone, with the options limited to just hamburgers and cheeseburgers. Their meat is minced on the premises to ensure consistency of flavour.

The meat is also minced on-site at Big Smoke Burger (+971 4 343 6533, bigsmokeburger.com), prior to which it is flown in from Canada (the brand’s home) to ensure consistency – and quality – of flavour. It’s no surprise that the signature Big Smoke Burger is the popular choice here; one bite and you’ll know why. You’ll find the UAE’s only branch at BoxPark, Al Wasl Road.

Moylo’s (+971 4 388 3140, moylosburgers.com) is a home-grown, hole-in-the-wall joint on Jumeirah Beach Road, just down from Sunset Mall. Quirky and colourful with an industrial edge, it features a wire counter covered in padlocks that have been customised by patrons (including one by Dubai’s Crown Prince, Sheikh Hamdan). There are five burgers to choose from, including the Truffle Shuffle with 100% Wagyu beef and home-made truffle mayo. Scrumptious.

Although serving much more than burgers, South African chain The Meat Co. (+971 4 368 6040, themeatco. com) does a mean cheeseburger, and the setting of its Souk Madinat Jumeirah branch – aside the water with a full view of Burl Al Arab – really takes some beating.

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Alcohol is only served in restaurants based within licensed premises, which basically means hotels.

A handful of exceptions include restaurants based at DIFC. Where sold, you’ll likely find wine expensive.

LEFT: Left Bank ABOVE: Rang Mahal

DUBAI’S ANSWER TO STREET FOOD With gourmet food trucks rolling out across Dubai at an astonishing rate, there’s bound to be one on the tarmac (or sand) near you. A dozen or so of the city’s best roll up at Emirates Golf Club every Saturday from 4pm to 11pm for the #FoodTruckJam (truckers.ae). Entry is free and you can enjoy cheap, tasty and filling morsels from the likes of Moti Roti, GObai, Calle Tacos and Yumtingz, while listening to live music on the grass. Alcohol is available, too.

The hugely popular Salt (instagram. com/findsalt) has a silver Airstream parked permanently at Kite Beach alongside an air-conditioned, glasswalled terrace, and serves just three types of gourmet sliders packed with flavour. There’s also a mobile truck that pops up at Dubai’s coolest events – follow it on Instagram to get the exact location while you’re in town.

Along Jumeirah Beach Road, and at the opposite end of Dubai’s dining spectrum in terms of glitz, is Bu Qtair (+971 55 705 2130), which has drawn a devoted following for more than two decades. While it’s been upgraded

from its original beach shack to a simple restaurant in the nearby fishing harbour, it continues to attract crowds who queue for the freshest prawns and catch of the day, both of which are served with curry sauce, rice and bread.

And if you’re travelling along the E11 between Dubai and Abu Dhabi – perhaps on your way to visit the capital – be sure to pull into the Last Exit (+971 4 317 3999, lastexit.ae) for a tasty pit stop. It’s home to 12 vintage Airstreams offering a drive-thru service, including Big Smoke Burger, Poco Loco, Operation Falafel, The Hot Dog Stand and Starbucks, along with kids’ play areas, washrooms and prayer rooms. A great concept.

SO YOU CAN SAY YOU’VE BEEN THERE You’ll need to book ahead to dine at the world’s highest restaurant, which spans much of level 122 of Burj Khalifa, but you’ll be glad you’ve done so. You arrive at At.mosphere (+971 4 888 3828, atmosphereburjkhalifa.com) via the world’s fastest elevator, before settling down in the swankiest of settings to enjoy the finest cuts of meat and fish to grace a menu.

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Shimmers

ASK A TOP CHEF Steven Hubbell, Junoon The best meal I have had in Dubai has to be at Simi’s Restaurant (+971 4 559 7851) in Karama. The fermented soybean kebab is the best I have ever tasted.

HEAD TO PIER 7 It’s a pier; it has seven floors. That’s the reason for its name covered off. But what’s of real note here is that each floor is devoted to a different-style restaurant. It’s also the only licensed premises on Marina Walk in Dubai Marina. And so to the good stuff…

The Scene (+971 422 2328, thescenedubai.com) by TV chef and serial author Simon Rimmer is the frontrunner here. British-style comfort food is the gist of it – think succulent, deep-filled pies, feather-light battered fish and chunky chips – but if you want something less filling, the grilled halloumi, pear and salted-hazelnut salad is delicious, too.

No prizes for guessing the cuisine cooked up at the excellent Asia Asia (+971 4 276 5900, asia-asia.com), but there might be a prize if you can find a dish, anywhere, that tickles your taste buds as much as its tigerprawn Kerala masala.

And if you want a side order of animated atmosphere with your mains of slow-cooked prime-beef back ribs, head to Cargo (+971 4 361 8129, cargo-dubai.com).

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DINE AT THE BEACH

TOP TAPAS With an open kitchen, funky murals and baskets hanging from its high ceilings, Salero Tapas & Bodega (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates looks more hipster eatery than traditional tapas joint. However, the Spanish staff, led by head chef Oscar Leon, ensure the no-nonsense, garlicsmothered tapas are entirely authentic.

There’s a great selection of hot and cold tapas such as Galician-style octopus, along with three types of paella and a separate kids’ menu. The vibe is relaxed and casual, with flamenco on Wednesdays from 8pm.

Casa de Tapas (+971 4 416 1800, casadetapas.ae) at Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club has lovely views over the Creek and a large upside-down lemon tree sprouting from the ceiling.

The menu is packed with classics, including Spanish omelette and garlicky steamed clams, along with more inventive dishes such as paella de fideua (made with angel-hair pasta, squid ink and prawns) – reportedly the only place in Dubai where this delicacy is served.

BOCA (+971 4 323 1833, boca.ae) in DIFC, meanwhile, strays from Spain to include sharing plates from Italy and France on its menu, too. From Med staples such as sweet Padrón peppers and grilled sardines to 12-hour braised lamb and lobster ravioli, dishes are served as they’re ready, making for a relaxed, grazing-style meal. The menu also has a raw section with carpaccios, crudos and tartars, along with a 22-strong list of grape available by the glass. Choose a spot at the buzzing bar or outdoor terrace, or head down to the cellar for a food and grape pairing experience hosted by the sommelier.

The Beach at JBR – a brilliant pedestrianised area mere metres from the sand and sea – is the perfect place to head for a good-value feed with your family in tow. Your best bet is to simply stroll the length of it, stopping to peruse the menus at places that catch your eye – there are myriad cuisines to choose from. But were you to twist our arm, we’d heartily recommend the following.

Helmed by Tom Aikens, who remains the youngest UK chef to have scooped two Michelin stars, the concept at Pots, Pans & Boards (+971 4 456 1959, thebeach.ae) is sharing dishes – make sure you get the lion’s share of the lobster mac and cheese – which you’ll enjoy in a relaxed, informal (even the chairs are mismatched) vibe.

Almaz by Momo (+971 4 551 6247, momoresto.com) is one place that will definitely catch your eye. Here you can look out to the sparkling sea while enjoying your pick from a menu of North African and Levant-inspired dishes. Think piping-hot tagines, slowcooked meats and grilled fish.

Breathing in the sea air may well put you in the mood for the ocean’s finest catches. If so, crack open a crab at Aprons & Hammers (+971 4 456 7888, apronsandhammers.com). Crab and shrimp are served by the bucketful here – along with a dollop of family fun – as diners have to work for their meal by crushing crustaceans with hinged crackers and (you guessed it) hammers. There’s a second restaurant aboard an atmospheric Arabic dhow in Dubai Marina, too.

Also down by the beach is the Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Resort, in which you’ll find the brilliant BiCE Ristorante (+971 4 399 1111, 3.hilton. com). For many a year this has ranked high among the best Italian restaurants in Dubai, with sublime examples of regional specialities cooked to exacting standards. It’s open for lunch and dinner, and won’t disappoint.

DXB City Expert

IT'S ALL GREEK TO ME If you’re hankering for some Hellenic flavours, you’ll be pleased to learn that, while Dubai is not exactly overflowing with Greek restaurants, it does boast some truly excellent ones.

In-the-know locals will point you towards Elia (+971 4 359 8888, dubaimajestic.com), a cosy restaurant with a lovely glass terrace surrounded by greenery in the somewhat incongruous setting of the Majestic Hotel in bustling Bur Dubai.

In the kitchen is Cretan head chef Poppy Kourkoutaki, while charming restaurant manager (and fellow Crete local) Margianna Mavridou heads up the front-of-house team. The menu is divided into Greek classics – the cheese saganaki and chicken souvlaki are standouts – and more contemporary interpretations such as slow-cooked veal cheeks with eggplant purée. Don’t leave without trying the freshly baked carob bread.

From the same team, Mythos Kouzina & Grill (+971 4 399 8166, mythoskouzina.com) feels like a little slice of Santorini hidden away in JLT’s Armada Bay Hotel. Kitted out like a traditional seaside taverna with whitewashed walls, rustic furniture and light-blue banquettes, the simple menu is a mix of traditional dishes such as keftedakia (meatballs) and grilled calamari, together with homestyle favourites like moussaka and gigandes (butter beans). The word is out about this well-priced gem, so be sure to book ahead.

Down at The Beach at JBR, Eat Greek Kouzina (+971 4 430 5249, eatgreekkouzina.com) has a more urban feel with distressed-wood floors, exposed brickwork and a beautiful sea view. The large menu has all the classics, including salads, hot and cold appetisers, gyros and souvlakistuffed pittas, as well as mixed grills, seafood, fish, lamb and even burgers.

It’s open for breakfast from 8.30am, and there’s a second branch in the Mall of the Emirates, too.

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Where To Eat

HEAVENLY HIGH TEA From traditional afternoon tea to more contemporary offerings, Dubai upholds this very British custom with more than a fair degree of flair.

Be transported to an English summer garden care of Rhodes W1 (+971 4 317 6000, rw1-dubai.com) at Grosvenor House Hotel. With sunny lemon tones and walls covered with fake grass and white butterflies, afternoon tea is served every Wednesday to Saturday from 2.30pm to 5pm. From finger sandwiches in savoury flavours such as quail’s egg mayonnaise to warm crumpets with fresh raspberries and home-made scones, the fine-china cake stands come piled high with tasty treats to complement your pot of tea.

(Dhs195 per person.)

At Mashrabiya Lounge (+971 4 457 3457, fairmont.com) in Fairmont The Palm, an award-winning afternoon tea can be taken in the stunning café – think arabesque décor with soft turquoise accents – or on the alfresco terrace overlooking the Arabian Gulf.

The tea sommelier will help you choose your preferred Jing tea, before you indulge in dainty sandwiches such as foie gras and morello cherry or truffled egg, served on multi-tiered silver trays, followed by irresistible sweet treats – think chocolate éclairs, raspberry macarons and warm date scones served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. (Daily, 12pm-6pm, Dhs135 per person.)

DINNER WITH AN INCREDIBLE VIEW Just off a jetty that juts out into the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf, on the westernmost tip of Palm Jumeirah, lies 101 Dining Lounge and Bar (+971 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts. com) at One&Only The Palm Dubai.

From here you get to drink in pictureperfect views of Dubai Marina and Burj Al Arab while enjoying superb contemporary European fare from a menu that has been rubber-stamped

by French super-chef Yannick Alléno

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– including the softest squid we’ve ever tasted. The whole experience can be heightened by catching a boat to the restaurant from sister hotel One&Only Royal Mirage. Booking is essential, as is a pre-boarding drink in the beautiful Jetty Lounge.

Nothing tops the view of Burj Khalifa that’s served up – along with incredibly good food – at Katana (+971 4 277 8808, katana-dubai.com).

Hailing from LA’s sunset strip, Katana specialises in the robatayaki style of authentic Japanese cuisine, whereby bamboo-skewered gourmet fish, meat and vegetables are grilled over a charcoal-induced open flame.

It’s fabulous.

Overlooking the ocean with fine views of Burj Al Arab, Shimmers (+971 4 4323232, jumeirah.com) has long been a go-to spot for locals and expats looking to wow their visitors. Recently relaunched with a menu of home-style Mediterranean favourites from Greek chef, Yiannis Katsikas, dishes include tender chargrilled octopus, slowroasted beetroot salad and zucchini kefta. The causal, toes-in-the-sand atmosphere is perfectly suited to long, lazy lunches and dinners accompanied by a gentle sea breeze.

To dine harbourside, head out to Senara (+971 4 451 6460, senararestaurants.com) on Palm Jumeirah. It's a lovely spot, casual and friendly, but its food is serious business: fish infused with British flair.

Fisherman's pie, 'posh' fish and chips and a great lobster roll always take our eye when perusing the menu.

For something altogether different – and something that should be on everyone's holiday to-do list – try dinner as you float down Dubai Creek in a boat-turned-restaurant, taking in the sights of ‘old’ Dubai as you feast on fine-dining dishes like baked chermoula prawns with a wonderful ginger and coriander couscous. This is Bateaux Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com), where boarding is at 7.45pm nightly, disembarking at 11pm.

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IF YOU BOOK JUST ONE PLACE WHILE YOU’RE HERE THIS MONTH, MAKE IT...

Rüya, Grosvenor House Hotel (+971 4 399 9123, ruyadubai.com) One of the region’s most respected chefs – Colin Clague – is working his magic at Anatolian eatery Rüya (+971 4 399 9123, ruyadubai.com). Turkish for ‘dream’, the restaurant has an open kitchen with a dramatic freestanding oven and a futuristic ice machine suspended from the ceiling of the bar. Dishes to try? Midye dolma (rice-stuffed mussels) and cağ kebabı (marinated lamb kebab infused with caramelised and charcoal flavours), best paired with Turkish grape or signature concoctions such as the Ottoman Old Fashioned and Anatolian Fizz.

LEFT: Last Exit NEXT PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Walnut Grove; Aji; Fish Beach Taverna; Big Daddy’s

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DINING AT THE MALL Follow the locals’ lead this month and head to one of Dubai’s famous shopping malls for a bite to eat in airconditioned comfort (in-between bouts of retail therapy, of course).

Alongside the food courts, many malls have excellent casual eateries.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by The Dubai Mall, but when shopping fatigue kicks in, make a beeline for Circle Café (+971 4 338 0049, circle-cafe.com), on the ground floor next to The Waterfall, and you won’t be disappointed.

Established in 2003 with an emphasis on fresh produce, this home-grown success story (there are now six cafés across the city) has an extensive menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner favourites, from an Arabic breakfast platter with halloumi za’atar and foul medames (fava beans) to superfood salad and peri-peri prawns.

Social House (+971 4 339 8640) is another crowd-pleaser, with an outdoor terrace overlooking The Dubai Fountain and a menu divided into flavours from East and West.

Choose from soups, sushi, salads and small plates, or more substantial meals like the excellent Thai green curry and osso busco.

Meanwhile, Lafayette Gourmet (+971 4 345 5444, galerieslafayettedubai.com), a posh food hall on the second level of famed French department store Galeries Lafayette, has individual stations serving everything from Mediterranean salads and Moroccan tagines to oysters and caviar.

Spanning over 36,000 sq m, the third-floor extension of Mall of the Emirates houses some of its best casual restaurants. Leading the way is Taiwanese dumpling chain Din Tai Fung (+971 4 265 1288). The chicken xiao long bao (soup dumplings), redbean sticky-rice dessert and Chinese oolong tea – with free refills – are worth the inevitable wait.

DXB City Expert

Next to VOX Cinemas and hailing from New York, nearby Dean & Deluca (+971 4 419 0830, deandeluca.com) dishes up everything from American classics such as the Philly steak sandwich to Arabian staples like mourabian, a prawn stew in spicy tomato sauce served with rice.

The best place here, though, is Common Grounds (+971 50 478 1094, commongroundsdubai.com), which offers fabulous salads, the best prawn tacos this side of Mexico City, and a very healthy kids’ menu. You can treat them with a delicious milkshake.

DIVINE DIM SUM, AND THEN SOME No self-respecting cosmopolitan city can call itself a self-respecting cosmopolitan city unless it has a Hakkasan (+971 4 384 8484, hakkasan.com). Happily, Dubai does (at Jumeirah Emirates Towers), and the high-end chain doesn’t disappoint with its chic, contemporary Chinese décor, expertly made dim sum and oh-so fashionable bar.

Shang Palace (+971 4 405 2703, shangri-la.com) at the Shangri-La Dubai is an old favourite that never fluctuates from serving up outstanding examples of Cantonese cuisine: case in point, the signature cod fish with grapes and well-balanced orange sauce.

If you’re feeling decadent, head to Shiba (+971 4 381 3111, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel. Chinese meets Japanese on the menu here, with some superb examples of big-hitting dishes from each – the never-fail miso-marinated black cod representing Japan; the stir-fried fresh scallops with a tongue-numbing XO sauce in the Chinese corner.

For a budget-friendly, brilliant and authentic Chinese-restaurant experience, visit China Sea (+971 4 295 9816) in Deira. Opt for the Peking duck before moving upstairs for karaoke. It’s an experience, that’s all we’ll say.

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DINING AT DIFC You may want to check in with your bank manager before heading to DIFC for dinner (especially with the whole family), but the reward for blowing your budget will be a truly memorable meal. Within DIFC is Gate Village, where amid the high-end galleries and auction houses are some of Dubai’s – and the world’s – best restaurants.

Ranked at number 89 in Restaurant Magazine’s 2016 list of the world’s best restaurants is the ever-popular Zuma (+971 4 425 5560, zumarestaurant. com), where the outstanding Japanese food is best ordered to share. In fact, what always works well here is to ask your waiter to order for you. New-tothe-menu dishes that you’ll want to try, courtesy of new executive chef Pawel Kazanowski and a hint of influence from CEO and founder Rainer Becker, include a sublime thinly sliced chutoro tuna with chilli, coriander, and sesame.

Taking the number-99 slot on the same prestigious list is La Petite Maison (+971 4 439 0505, lpmlondon. co.uk/dubai). It uses produce from local UAE farms in a number of its fabulous creations, all of which have their roots in French-Mediterranean cooking.

Dishes like the burrata with basil and tomatoes and the salt-baked sea bass are legendary among Dubai gourmands.

Within DIFC’s Al Fattan Currency House you'll find the ever excellent R Trader (+971 4 343 5518) where menu options are split into four and categorised as 'raw', 'sea', 'birds and beasts', and 'land'. There are some exceptional dishes in each, not least the poached langoustine backed by truffle and foie gras, and the melt-in-yourmouth braised beef cheek.

The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri (+971 4 338 8133, theartisan.ae) in Burj Daman Building is a little hidden away but you’ll be glad you’ve found it.

Originating in Florence, the thricestarred Enoteca Pinchiorri was founded by sommelier Giorgio Pinchiorri and self-taught (French) executive chef Annie Féolde. The Dubai outpost is a more relaxed version of Italian fine dining, with an emphasis on amazing,

DXB City Expert

LEFT Ayamna NEXT PAGES, FROM LEFT: Ruya; Wanderlust Friday brunch

authentic ingredients (the restaurant even has its own brand of Parmesan and olive oil). Overseen by head chef Luca Tresoldi, who has worked in Florence under Féolde for the last five years, signature dishes like octopus slow-cooked in home-made olive oil and tuffoli pasta with veal-shank stew are stunning examples of just how beautiful and delicate Italian food can be when done to this high standard.

SUBLIME SUSHI AND SASHIMI Beyond the elsewhere-mentioned Zuma and Nobu, Dubai is home to a couple more standout Japanese restaurants. One of them, Armani/ Hashi (+ 971 4 888 3888, armanihotels. com) is housed in the Armani Hotel Dubai, within Burj Khalifa. You’d be hard pushed to find anywhere selling seafood as good as that served here.

Another, TOMO (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae) at Raffles Dubai, is helmed by chef-owner Chitoshi Takaashi, who has devised a menu that’s vast and packed with fantastic authentic Japanese delicacies, best navigated with the help of a waiter.

The terrace here bestows brilliant views of Burj Khalifa, too.

Ex-Zuma chef Reif Othman’s Play (+971 4 225 6000, h-hotel.com) at The H Hotel was an instant hit when it opened at the outset of 2016. Playfully (naturally) described as ‘Mediterrasian’ – a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian flavours – the twists on classic dishes here are a real delight. Be sure to order the duck gyoza and takumi Wagyu ribs – both of which are divine. The always-buzzing bar and DJ mean the

atmosphere at dinner is as spirited as the menu, although if you’re a nonsmoker the restaurant area can get uncomfortably smoky.

Famed London export Novikov (+971 4 3 888 8744, novikov-dubai. com) at the Sheraton Grand Hotel is another ultra-glamorous spot, with a sleek, dimly lit dining space, resident DJs and a vast – and very impressive – Asian menu. Fronting the open kitchen is a market counter displaying fresh fish and seafood flown in every second day from Portugal and Japan, including interesting delicacies like goose barnacles and sea urchins. The skill of ex-Nobu head chef Shane Macneill is evident throughout – highlights include the king crab-leg and wasabi gratin, scallop and black-truffle sashimi, and the signature duck salad.

Founded in Moscow, famed in London and now delighting diners in Dubai is Sumosan (+971 56 678 3357, sumosan.com), which serves up Japanese food of the highest calibre to the showy crowd at Billionaire Mansion. You’ll find it within the Taj Dubai hotel.

Cheaper than the lot – though still of high quality – is Manga Sushi (+971 4 342 8300, mangasushi.ae) at Beach Park Plaza in Jumeirah 2. As its name more than hints at, this is a restaurant that’s designed manga-style, right down to the waitresses’ uniforms. The fun extends to the very inventive sushi creations, including Godzilla in Dubai: deep-fried wasabi prawn, asparagus and diced mango, dipped in wasabi mayonnaise and rolled in sesame seeds. You’ll also find a branch of Manga Sushi in The Dubai Mall.

Where To Eat

COOL CAFES Craving a good cup of coffee or slap-up breakfast? At City Walk, Jumeirah’s alfresco shopping and dining district, The Brass (+971 4 385 6971, thebrass.ae) features gorgeous golden interiors and an extensive menu of speciality brews such as lavender-honey lattes and Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom, along with pastries, cakes, salads, sandwiches and flatbreads. A second branch has also opened at The Outlet Village in Jebel Ali. Like its New York State namesake, The Hamptons Café (+971 4 331 5118, hamptonsdubai.com) is a stylish

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locale that draws in a regular crowd of locals, expats and in-the-know visitors.

Located in a residential-looking white villa on Jumeirah Beach Road, menus are presented on iPads, with dishes ranging from breakfast favourites like French toast and truffle-coddled eggs to lunch and dinner options such as pulled-duck crostini and buttermilkfried chicken. Which is just as well because it’s open from 8am until 11pm (1am on Thursdays and Fridays).

Continue south along Jumeirah Beach Road and you’ll stumble upon The Surf Café (+971 4 346 6292, thesurfcafedubai.com). A block back from the beach, this chilled-out spot has friendly staff and a wide selection of

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fresh seafood (you can even choose live lobster and king crab from the tank), along with sushi, ceviche and salads.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the all-day breakfast menu, supersmoothies and speciality coffee are yet more reasons to visit.

Meanwhile, The Majlis Dubai (themajlisdubai.com) at The Dubai Mall bills itself as the city’s ‘first and finest camel milk café’. Come here to try the signature camelccino or camellatte made with specially roasted Ethiopian coffee beans and deliciously smooth camel milk, along with Arabic coffee served from a traditional dallah pot, and muffins, éclairs and ice cream made from, you guessed it, camel milk.

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SOMEWHERE SIMPLE WITH YOUNG KIDS

Leading the way when it comes to hipster cafés, The Sum of Us (+971 56 445 7526, thesumofusdubai.com) in the Burj Al Salam building behind the Sheraton Hotel has industrial-chic interiors, a sourdough bakery and its own coffee roastery. As you can imagine, it smells pretty good – throw in an inviting menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes, such as French toast with salted-caramel sauce or Parmesancrusted chicken breast, and you can see why it’s one of Dubai’s most popular spots (open 8am-10pm daily). At the other end of town in Al Quoz, sister café Tom&Serg (+971 56 474 6812, tomandserg.com) is just as good and usually even busier.

Eating at your hotel can be expensive – especially if you have a whole family to feed – but fear not: Dubai has plenty of options for good-value, great-quality fare. Ideal for tiny tots is bookstoreslash-café BookMunch (+971 4 388 4006, bookmunchcafe.com) in Al Wasl Square. It serves up tasty treats – try the blueberry pancakes – and stocks plenty of children’s books, ensuring your kids get food for thought as well as their bellies.

Bystro (+971 336 8056, bystrodubai. com) on Sheikh Zayed Road offers a special kids’ corner featuring miniature tables and chairs, as well as toys and books. The food will please kids and adults alike; choose from sandwiches, great breakfast options, weekend roasts and – intriguingly – dinosaur ribs.

Baker & Spice’s (+971 4 362 4686, bakerandspice.com) Marina Promenade location in Dubai Marina is arguably the pick of the chain’s four venues in the city – you’ll get to enjoy views of the yachts while eating tasty home-style dishes, the ingredients for which are often drawn from local farms. There’s no dedicated kids’ menu here, but on offer are smaller portions of main dishes, including a fine spaghetti and meatballs.

Over at Italian restaurant Sapori Di Bice (+971 4 344 2550, saporidi-bice. com) on City Walk, kids get to create their own pizzas, with multiple funshaped bases on offer.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking for somewhere to eat with your baby, try Pantry Café (+971 4 388 3868, pantrycafe.me) on Al Wasl Road. While you enjoy wholesome, locally sourced food, your baby will get messy sucking on free veggie purée.

With its seaside location at The Beach at JBR and double-height dining space lined with bookshelves, Big Chefs (+971 4 551 5302, bigchefs.co) has a stylish yet homely feel. The huge menu has over 140 dishes across a multitude of cuisines, along with a separate kids’ menu, so you’re bound to find something for even the fussiest of little eaters. Just be sure they leave room for dessert – the Oreo Nutella cheesecake is one your kids won’t want to share.

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INCREDIBLE-VALUE INDIAN AND PAKISTANI Since Indians and Pakistanis account for the biggest expat community in Dubai, it comes as little surprise that the city is awash with an abundance of Indian and Pakistani cuisine – much of it very cheap and delicious. That’s particularly true of Saravanaa Bhavan (+971 4 334 5252) in Karama, whose vegetable curries pack in brilliant flavour and cost an average Dhs15.

Also in Karama is Calicut Paragon (+971 4 449 8560, paragonrestaurant. net), which serves curried Keralan seafood specialities, while Rangoli Vegetarian Restaurant (+971 4 351 5873, rangolirestaurants.com) in Meena Bazaar, Bur Dubai serves food from the Gujarati region of India (imagine platters upon platters of delicious thali, which just keep coming).

The Dubai institution that is Ravi Restaurant (+971 4 331 5353) in Satwa serves Pakistani-style curries, with favourites including chicken achar, keema fry and chicken methi.

These places are strictly no-frills, but when the curries are so good and such great value, who cares?

FAST, FILLING NOODLES (AND A BIT MORE BESIDES) The Noodle House (+971 4 366 6730, thenoodlehouse.com) is a real home-grown success story, and the go-to place for steaming-hot bowls of fragrantly spiced pad thai and myriad other dishes inspired by the street foods of Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok and Jakarta. The dishes are never-fail and good value to boot, which makes it a great option for families – it even has a funky kids’ menu, comprising the likes of wok-fried satay-chicken noodles. You’ll find branches of The Noodle House across the city, including one at Souk Madinat Jumeirah.

The menu at Veda Pavilion (+971 4 361 8845, emiratesleisureretail.com) on the trunk of Palm Jumeirah moves beyond Far Eastern staples to include a head-popping free-range chicken vindaloo. As such, everyone in your dining party is likely to find something that really hits the spot here.

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DXB City Expert

Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara

GUT-BUSTING BRUNCHES In the bigger-is-better city of Dubai, the word ‘brunch’ takes on a very different meaning. Here, brunch is not a laidback mid-morning weekend meal to be enjoyed with a friend in a nice café; it is an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink lunchtime feast that involves cuisines from every corner of the globe, live music and sometimes even acrobatics.

A Dubai brunch isn’t just a meal, it’s an experience – and something everyone needs to try at least once during their holiday here. Typically staged on Fridays but increasingly available on Saturdays at some restaurants, here are a few of our current choice picks…

Take your taste buds on a trip around the world at the new Wanderlust brunch in the Garden restaurant at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com). The smell of waffles greets you at the door and the brunch is so big – serving up

360 different dishes from 10 different restaurants – you get given a map to navigate your way round. Food stations are spread throughout the restaurant and adjacent terrace and handily grouped by theme. Don’t leave without sidling up to the Peruvian barbeque station for a zingy ceviches and tasty tiraditosstation, curry. Held every Friday from 1pm to 4pm (Dhs395), you can then head to the Lust AfterParty in Square for 20% off beverages from 4pm to 7pm.

The gluttonous nature of a typical Dubai brunch can make for a somewhat raucous atmosphere in certain places, so if it’s somewhere sophisticated you seek, look no further than Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant.com) in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. From punchy ceviches and tacos, through to skewered meats and mushrooms, you’ll be halfway to gourmet heaven by the time you choose a main course – opt for the arroz nikkei (Chilean sea bass cooked with rice,

lime and chilli) and you’ll soon be all the way there. Prices range from Dhs328 for the non-alcoholic option through to Dhs598 for champagne.

(Fridays, 12.30pm-4pm.)

The Garden Brunch at Raffles Dubai (+971 4 324 8888, raffles.com) is a great option for families, with a bouncy castle, mini golf and pizza-making classes for kids. The gorgeous garden is dotted with picnic tables, open-air cabanas and live cooking stations dishing up pulled BBQ rolls, gourmet burgers, hot dogs, grilled seafood and tandoor treats. There’s also a buffet piled high with salads, quiches, roast meats with all the trimmings and truly tempting desserts. Fridays from 1pm4:30pm, Dhs235 with soft drinks or Dhs385 with unlimited beverages.

A haven outside of the bustling city is boutique hotel Desert Palm PER AQUUM. Here, sat aside polo fields and serenaded by birdsong, you can savour the Friday Vintage Brunch at Rare (+971 4 323 8888, desertpalm. ae), where European-influenced dishes meet their Asian counterparts, beautifully paired with half a bottle of bubbly per person and your pick of grape and cocktails. It costs Dhs395 per person or Dhs295 for the nonalcoholic package, with children (aged four to 12) priced at Dhs195.

FESTIVE LUNCHES You won’t have to venture far to find a restaurant serving up traditional turkey with all the trimmings come 25 December. But here’s where we suggest you indulge… The JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) will be serving up its biggest festive brunch to date – a special edition of the Wanderlust brunch in its Garden restaurant. Billed as a one-stop culinary journey around the world, you’ll revel in the lively and fun atmosphere from 1pm to 4pm. What’s more, priced at a very decent Dhs395 per person including house beverages and spirits, it’s almost gifted to you.

Another top choice come the big day is the Fork & Cork Christmas Day

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Where To Eat

Brunch at Crescendo (+971 4 567 8304, dubai-palm.anantara.com) in the Anantara The Palm – Dubai Resort. In addition to multiple live cooking stations serving up turkey, all the trimmings, and a whole lot more besides, a live band and a visit from Santa Claus ensure a huge helping of festive cheer to boot.

Prices range from Dhs445 per person inclusive of unlimited soft beverages, through to Dhs750 per person inclusive of unlimited bubbly.

In fact, if bubbly is your thing, be sure to make a beeline for the Christmas Day Brunch at Traiteur (+971 4 602 181, dubai.park.hyatt. com) in the Park Hyatt Dubai. Here you can indulge in unlimited Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Champagne for Dhs1,295 per person, or unlimited Besserat de Bellefon Champagne for Dhs895 per person, along with a wide selection of fabulous festive food. Kids aged six to 12 can eat and drink for Dhs295 per child, while those under six can do so for free. Santa will also drop by with a sackful of presents for them.

The big man will also make an appearance at Tesoro (+971 4 438 3127, taj.tajhotels.com) in Taj Dubai, Downtown Dubai. A traditional turkey carvery forms the centre of a lavish buffet, backed by live music and exceptional views of Burj Khalifa. It runs from 1pm to 5pm and costs from Dhs299 with unlimited soft beverages, up to Dhs599 for bubbly. Kids aged over five are priced at Dhs199.

If the idea of a buffet, however good, has you all Scrooge-like, you’ll smile again at the thought of the most traditional of festive lunches – served over four courses – from Brit chef Gary Rhodes at his Rhodes W1 restaurant within the Grosvenor House Dubai (+971 4 399 8888, grosvenorhousedubai.com) Its cost ranges from Dhs450 per person inclusive of unlimited soft drinks, to Dhs580 inclusive of unlimited selected alcoholic drinks.

For something altogether different – and to make the most of being in the sunshine on the big day – head for the Festive Urban Picnic at 3in1, Vida Downtown Dubai (+971 4 888 3444,

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The Brass

vida-hotels.com). Here you can spend the afternoon relaxing in a stylish cabana by the pool while a DJ ramps up the festive atmosphere. The picnic element? You’ll be given a partially filled picnic basket on arrival, which you can top up with your selection of specially prepared festive food options, to be enjoyed in your cabana or on the sun-soaked terrace replete with faux grass. The fun runs from 1pm to 5pm, priced at Dhs345 for adults inclusive of food and unlimited premium selected beverages, or Dhs295 for food and an unlimited fill of soft beverages.

SUMPTUOUS SEAFOOD While most menus these days feature ample fish dishes, restaurants that specialise in serving up our fishy friends are in surprisingly short supply across Dubai. That’s one of the reasons why Catch (+971 4 357 1755, catch.ae) was so warmly

received by locals – and remains one of the hottest tables in town, with an atmosphere to match. Hailing from NYC, the other good reason that this contemporary American seafood restaurant finds favour is, of course, its food. You can have your fish in a number of ways, but you don’t need to look beyond the simple grilled version.

If you only have time to eat out once or twice while you’re here, make Catch a must-dine.

For classic seaside favourites at a reasonable price, stop by The MAINE (+971 4 457 6719, themaine.ae) in the DoubleTree by Hilton, JBR. Part American brasserie and part European bistro, the unpretentious venue features a raw bar overflowing with fresh oysters, ceviche and seafood towers, along with grilled steak, chops and a variety of vegetarian dishes. With touches of nautical glamour and a seafrontfacing terrace, it’s also a top spot to head for relaxed sundowners.

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Where To Shop

DXB City Expert

To

SHOP Chapter FOUR

Step inside the stores, meander around the markets and seek out the unique shopping experiences that are found only in Dubai

MEGA MALLS Few places in the world do malls like Dubai. Ever since the first one (the Al Ghurair Centre) swung open its doors in 1980, there’s been a steady flow of malls opening up across the city.

Whether you’re in town for a day, a week or longer, there’s a mall for you.

With over 1,200 stores under its gargantuan roof, The Dubai Mall (800 38 224 6255, thedubaimall.com) should be your first stop. Consisting of four levels – plus an aquarium, Olympicsized ice rink and 22-screen cineplex – it was named the largest shopping

centre in the world by Guinness World Records when it opened in 2008, and is packed with designer and high-street stores. At some point during your time here it’s a given that you’ll lose your bearings, but there are numerous help desks (and even buggies to ferry you around if you’re flagging). Don’t leave without visiting Level Shoe District (+971 4 501 6939, levelshoedistrict. com), which houses every designer shoe brand known to mankind; the region’s first Bloomingdale’s (+971 4 350 5333); and an outpost of France’s famous Galeries Lafayette (+971 4 339 9933, galerieslafayette-dubai.com).

Mall of the Emirates (+971 4 409 9000, malloftheemirates.com) is another big shopping draw. Following its recent 36,000 sq m extension (which saw 20 new fashion brands, 12 restaurants and a 24-screen VOX Cinemas added), this mega-mall has over 560 stores to roam. Make sure you become acquainted with Fashion Dome, an area dedicated to designer garb; Boutique 1 (+971 4 395 1200, boutique1.com), a homegrown retail star stocking global and local labels; the UAE’s largest Alexander McQueen store (+971 4 347 0239), stocking seasonal collections as well as classics

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ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Dubai’s main malls have long opening hours: The Dubai Mall is open from 10am to midnight, while Mall of the Emirates is open from 10am to 10pm, Sunday to Wednesday, and 10am to midnight, Thursday to Saturday. The malls also ask that shoppers dress modestly – shoulders and knees should be covered. These dress codes are in place to show respect for the country’s culture and religion, rather than law.

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Where To Shop

like skull scarves and knucklebox clutches; and Harvey Nichols – Dubai (+971 4 409 8888, harveynichols. com), which houses a winning mix of international fashion heavyweights and much more over its three floors.

Next, hop in a taxi or take the metro to BurJuman (+971 4 352 0222, burjuman.com), one of the oldest shopping malls in Dubai. Offering wallto-wall high fashion, from Fendi and Versace to the UAE’s only Saks Fifth Avenue (+971 4 501 2700, saksme. com), here you can shop for designer names in relative calm.

Back on the metro, continue for three stops along the Red Line and you’ll reach Deira City Centre Mall (+971 4 295 1010, citycentredeira. com), home to over 370 retail stores as well as Magic Planet, a supersized indoor family-entertainment centre.

A hop and skip from here is Dubai Festival City Mall (+971 4 800 332, festivalcentre.com), a creekside retail resort that offers a potpourri of shops (mostly mid-range), with newcomers including Rigby & Peller, River Island and Kate Spade. The new waterfront extension provides great views of the city skyline and boasts 20 restaurants, including the first Serendipity 3 outside the United States (there’s now a second branch at City Walk).

Shoppers who need a fuss-free retail spree should head to Dubai Marina Mall (+971 4 436 1020, dubaimarinamall.com), which offers a stylish mix of high-street brands on a more manageable scale, or Ibn Battuta Mall (+971 4 362 1900, ibnbattutamall. com). Touted as the world’s largest themed shopping mall and based on the travels of Arabic explorer Ibn Battuta, the décor alone makes for great snaps.

There are bargains galore at Dubai Outlet Mall (+971 4 423 4666, dubaioutletmall.com), located 30 minutes outside the city, and The Outlet Village (+971 4 317 3999, theoutletvillage.ae) in Jebel Ali, the emirate’s newest hot spot for luxury labels for less. The former offers heavily discounted prices on previous seasons’ wares from top brands; must-visit shops include Priceless and The Outlet, both

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of which stock clothes and accessories from the city’s biggest luxury department stores. The latter boasts three department stores and over 125 brands such as Fendi, Valentino, Givenchy, Tom Ford, Jimmy Choo, Tory Burch, Dolce & Gabbana, Kenzo and many more. Taking inspiration from the World Heritage-listed hilltop town of San Gimignano in Tuscany, the mall features terracotta-tiled piazzas and stylish cafés, making it a lovely place to wile away a few hours. Open from 10am to 10pm Sunday to Wednesday, and 10am to midnight Thursday to Saturday, there are free shuttle buses departing regularly from Jumeirah, Al Barsha and Dubai Marina. Visit the website for locations and times.

SOUVENIRS TO SAVOUR Say farewell to tacky token gifts and hello to something a little more authentic – starting with Arabica coffee. While a number of coffee shops in Dubai serve Arabica coffee (with a signature date), few sell the beans to take away – apart from the Dubai Coffee Museum (+971 4 353 8777, coffeemuseum.ae), that is. Located in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the museum features a coffee bar on the top floor, where bubbly barista John Paul – an expert when it comes to drinks of the caffeinated kind – serves and sells Arabica coffee to visitors looking for a souvenir with a touch of authenticity. It’s open from 9am to 5pm every day, except Friday.

Poetry is another cornerstone of Dubai’s history. Head to the vast Kinokuniya (+971 4 434 0111, uae. kinokuniya.com) bookshop in The Dubai Mall to pick up an Arabic poetry book from one of the many shelves stacked high with tomes. Calligraphy, too, is synonymous with Emirati heritage. Gallery 1 (+971 4 432 7493, g-1.com), which has shops in Souk Al Bahar and Souk Madinat Jumeirah, among other locales, stocks an enviable selection of calligraphy keepsakes, from prints to notebooks.

Oud, a scent synonymous with Dubai, will undoubtedly make for a

memorable memento, with most of the malls and markets mentioned here offering bottled or bespoke versions for men and women. But for noses that prefer softer scents, head to Villa 515 (+971 4 395 4054, villa515.com), an olfactory sanctuary in Jumeirah 3 that boasts a laboratory specifically designed for perfume customisation. Perfect for creating your own holiday scent.

CONCEPT STORES Outside of Dubai’s glitzy malls there’s a raft of independent concept stores and shopping experiences to enjoy – if you know where to find them.

The best way to tick off the city’s unique boutiques is to introduce them

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DXB City Expert

ASK A LOCAL Kelly Lundberg Stylist and personal shopper, StyleMeDivine.com When it comes to navigating the sales during Dubai Shopping Festival (from 26 December, mydsf.ae), my top tip is to go early in the morning when the shops are at their quietest. Shelves will be stacked neatly and rails well-stocked, plus sales staff will be less frazzled and more available to help you.

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into your day, rather than allocate a day to visit them. For example, if you find yourself in Alserkal Avenue admiring the art galleries, stop by The cARTel (+971 4 388 4341, thecartel.me), one of Dubai’s creative retail pioneers. From the outside it looks like an abandoned warehouse.

Step inside, however, and a carefully curated selection of clothing awaits.

The designers stocked here are often exclusive to the region, with every piece a limited edition to ensure its individuality. Over the road from The cARTel you’ll find A4 Space (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), a sprawling 6,000 sq ft warehouse that regularly hosts pop-up fashion and art events for the city’s cool crowd.

Fashion-conscious parents heading to Dubai Zoo should visit the nearby Zoo Concept (+971 4 349 5585), which offers everything from novelty gifts to trendy T-shirts. From here, venture a little further along Jumeirah Beach Road to Comptoir 102 (+971 4 385 4555), a conceptualised eatery selling kitsch clothing alongside a delicious vegan menu.

In Umm Suqeim is IF Boutique (+971 4 394 7260, ifboutiquedubai. com), a villa housing cutting-edge designs from a whole host of quirky international designers, including Yohji Yamamoto. A short drive down the same street is Garderobe (+971 4 394 2753, garderobe.ae), a hotbed for preowned luxury fashion. Expect to

find vintage Chanel alongside Céline, Balenciaga beside Burberry, and Dior in company with Dolce & Gabbana.

Holidaymakers planning on retracing Tom Cruise’s footsteps at Dubai International Financial Centre (Cruise ran under the iconic Gate Building in the fourth instalment of Mission: Impossible) should pay Momentum (+971 4 327 4320, momentum-dubai. com) a visit. This vintage- and rarewatch store offers a raft of timepieces as well as service and repair.

BEST OF BESPOKE Dubai has garnered a well-deserved reputation for custom tailoring over the years, thanks, in part, to

Where To Shop

an abundance of fabric stores and quick turnaround times – great for visitors like yourself.

Areas synonymous with tailoring include Satwa – Deepa’s (+971 4 349 4434, deepastailoring.com) is a popular spot; Karama – Dream Girls (+971 4 337 7287) is a regular for Dubai’s females; and Bur Dubai – Parmar Tailors (+971 4 351 3112, parmartailors.com) is a firm favourite for made-to-measure. These three locations make for a great day out in ‘old’ Dubai, regardless of whether you’re looking for bespoke attire.

Men, meanwhile, should stop by Royal Fashion (+971 4 368 6192, royalfashion.biz) at Souk Madinat Jumeirah (it also has branches in various hotels across Dubai). Its tailors create made-to-measure suits and shirts at reasonable prices, and can send them on to your home country if they’re not ready before you leave.

Couples looking to say ‘I do’ should stop by the popular Gold & Diamond Park (+971 4 362 7777, goldanddiamondpark.com) along Sheikh Zayed Road. It’s a hive of activity with lots of jewellery stores offering custom-made luxuries. Dubai stalwart Monili Jewellers (+971 4 340 7537, monilijewellers.com) is a standout. It houses a range of diamonds, semiprecious and precious stones, which the boutique’s artisans can use to create bespoke pieces for you. Haggling here is an absolute – and welcomed – essential.

MINI MALLS They might not be as big as Dubai’s jumbo malls but the city’s smaller counterparts are chock-full of labels worthy of your holiday dirhams. Most are located along Jumeirah Beach Road and Al Wasl Road – two roads that run parallel. Simply drive up one, turn around at Drydocks Dubai, and drive down the other.

Kick off your mini-mall trawl at one of Dubai’s newest shopping centres, aptly named The Mall (+971 4 348 4848, themall.co.ae), opposite Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Flooded with

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natural light, it houses 55 stores and food outlets including Boho Beachwear, Big Brands Factory Outlet and French fashion retailer Escales.

Continue along Jumeirah Beach Road to Sunset Mall (+971 4 330 7333, sunsetmall.ae), home to West LA Boutique (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique.com) and its batch of underground fashion brands from across the globe. Two other must-visit shopping havens here include the Mediterranean-inspired Mercato Mall (+971 4 344 4161, mercatoshoppingmall.com) – home to the brilliant Bagatelle (+971 55 312 6822), which sells preowned designer clothing, shoes and jewellery – and The Galleria Mall (+971 4 344 4434), where you’ll find quirky stores like SoH (+971 4 344 4147, soh.ae), a beauty salon-meets-gallery-meetsboutique, and ValleyDez (+971 4 321 2898, valleydez.com), which sells cool designer and ready-to-wear clothing.

The Galleria Mall also houses some great little restaurants.

City Walk (citywalk.ae), at the junction of Al Wasl and Al Safa Road, aims to bring the outside in with a new boulevard-style shopping area complete with glass roof, subtle air-conditioning and plenty of natural light. Windowshop without breaking a sweat at boutiques like American Vintage, Rag & Bone and Karl Lagerfeld, then catch a film at Reel Cinemas or take the kids to Mattel Play Town, an indoor ‘eduplay’ centre.

If you want to fully explore the Jumeirah/Al Wasl area but haven’t rented a car, you can hire a taxi for a six-hour stint, for a flat fee of Dhs500.

You must book 24 hours in advance (+971 4 208 0000, dubaitaxi.ae).

RIPE FOR A DIFFERENT EXPERIENCE? Ripe Market (+971 4 380 7602, ripeme.com) is one of the city’s most popular outdoor markets.

Focused solely on local artisans and designers selling arts, crafts, fashion and jewellery, there are also locally grown organic fruit and vegetables for sale, street-food stalls, live music,

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pop-up fitness classes, activities for the kids and a wonderful community atmosphere. You’ll find it at various locations across town this month: every Wednesday (2pm-9pm) in the grounds of Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina; every Friday (9am-3pm) at Zabeel Park; and every Saturday (3pm9pm) at Al Barsha Pond Park.

SOUK SPECTACULAR It’s no surprise that one of Dubai’s oldest settlement areas provides the base and backdrop for one of the city’s most authentic shopping experiences: Deira.

Nestled in the neighbourhood’s maze of winding walkways you’ll find the Dubai Gold Souk – best reached by taxi, although the nearest metro stop is Al Ras. Made up of around 300 jewellery stores, residents love it because it reminds them of days gone by, while tourists like it for the quality and variety of gold – and the fact that you can haggle over the price.

A quick march from the Gold Souk will lead you to the Spice Souk, home to a number of thatched market stalls selling aromatic spices that are certain to pull at your purse strings.

Not far from both is the Perfume Souk, which is a great place to head for a souvenir vial of the traditional Arabic scent, oud. You can also buy essential oils at great prices (particularly if you haggle well).

Dubai Textile Souk, meanwhile, is a fabric fairyland for shoppers looking to create bespoke garments.

From swathes of silk for saris and wedding gowns to bolts of embroidered cotton, you’d be hard-pressed to find a souk more colourful than this one.

Where To Shop

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Where To Shop

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GO LOCAL Dubai is home to a number of stellar designers whose collections have careered down the runway at fashion weeks around the world. Star of the moment Madiyah Al Sharqi, who is also the daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, is celebrated at home and abroad for her statement pieces, feminine separates and dresses. Pick up a Sharqi staple from Symphony (+971 4 310 6904, bysymphony.com) in The Dubai Mall. Also stocked at Symphony is Endemage, an ethnicchic label created by Omani sisters Nadia and Lubna Zakwani.

House of Nomad is another local label elbowing its way inside the wardrobes of the UAE’s fash-pack.

The celebrated newcomer, applauded for its use of Arabic calligraphy throughout its collections, can be found at West LA Boutique (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique.com) in Sunset Mall.

Also drawing inspiration from the Arabic alphabet is Beirut-born, Dubai-based jewellery designer Nadine Kanso. For her Bil Arabi (bilarabi.ae) brand, Kanso updates the traditional letters with her own funky twist to create contemporary pieces for men and women, which are stocked in Bloomingdale’s, Harvey Nichols – Dubai and S*uce.

Besides the malls, the streets along Jumeirah Beach Road, Al Wasl Road and the surrounding roads are dotted with villas housing local design talent.

You’ll find Dubai fashion star Rami Al Ali (+971 4 394 5607, ramialali. com), whose couture collections have appeared at Paris Fashion Week, in villa 697 on Al Wasl Road. Book a consultation for haute couture or simply scour the rails at Harvey Nichols – Dubai and Galeries Lafayette for the Syrian designer’s elegant, yet understated ready-to-wear collections.

Superstar designer Ezra (+971 4 395 5385, ezrafashiondesign.com), best known for his dreamy, extravagant gowns, creates his masterpieces from his atelier in Dubai’s Jumeirah 3 (villa 746, Al Wasl Road). With Britney

Spears and Michelle Rodriguez for clients, Ezra is a must-visit boutique for ladies who are looking for fivestar quality couture.

OPEN-AIR RETAIL AFFAIR If you’re seeking sunshine with your shopping, The Beach (+971 80 063 7227, thebeach.ae) in Dubai Marina boasts a bunch of cool stores selling holiday staples for young and old, alongside coastal views and a vast esplanade. Refuel at one of the many restaurants here – Eat Greek is a popular casual eatery – before making your way along JBR to Boutique 1 (+971 4 425 7888, boutique1.com), the aforementioned retailer’s second outpost in the city.

Peppered along a 1,200m stretch of pavement on Al Wasl Road, BoxPark (+971 4 317 3999, boxpark.ae) is a pop-up mall made up of shipping containers. Visitors will find 220 industrial containers selling everything from streetwear to ice cream, along with restaurants, cafés and free Wi-Fi

along the strip. Cool stores to look out for include Urbanist (+971 55 381 4552, urbaniststore.com), which has contemporary fashion and homewares from international brands and Middle Eastern designers, and Human & Beings (+971 50 918 3330), which stocks designers from countries such as Italy, Japan, Australia and Portugal, all hand-picked for their inspiring backstories.

Keep walking along Al Wasl Road and you’ll come to Al Wasl Square, where edgy retail stores, bakeries and beauty parlours are bunched together for a short but sweet shopping experience. Sister property City Walk (citywalk.ae) also offers a central alfresco location in which the family can shop, dine, play and pamper.

Something open-air and altogether different is Global Village (+971 4 362 4114, globalvillage.ae). The seasonal leisure destination boasts 32 shopping pavilions stocked with unique wares from 75 countries. What’s more, with funfair rides and 25 restaurants, it’s good fun for all the family.

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What

DO Chapter FIVE

Think you’re only here for the sun and shopping? Think again. Dubai boasts ample attractions that you’ll want to experience before heading home. The fun starts here

SEE THE CITY FROM THE SKY Skydiving is on every daredevil’s bucket list and there’s no better place to do it than here. Skydive Dubai (+971 4 377 8888, skydivedubai.ae) has one of the world’s most spectacular tandem jumps over the iconic Palm Jumeirah.

Or if you’d rather not leap out of a plane, iFly Dubai (+971 4 231 6292, theplaymania.com) lets you defy gravity in its amazing indoor wind tunnel.

For more sedate sightseeing, Seawings (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) offers a range of scenic joy flights, including the Dubai Creek Silver tour, a 40-minute ‘dock to dock’ seaplane excursion above the historic Creek, Palm Jumeirah, Burj Khalifa and more.

If VIP bling is more your thing, nothing beats hovering around town in a helicopter. Fly High Helicopter Services (advance booking via City

Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) offers 15- or 25-minute tours from its helipad at Atlantis, The Palm, as well as helicopter transfers so you can really arrive in style. Meanwhile, Heli Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) takes off from Dubai Festival City, with 12- or 22-minute aerial tours over Dubai’s stratosphere-nudging skyscrapers for an unforgettable experience.

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ABOUT THIS CHAPTER As you’ll read, there is much to do in Dubai, and as such we’ve ensured our recommendations include plenty of options for both big and little kids. By far the best way to get your bearings – and to see all of the city – is by starting out with a City Sightseeing Dubai hop-on, hop-off bus tour (see Top Of The Tours for booking details). Then it’s all about ticking off that to-do list…

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What To Do

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ASK A LOCAL Alexandra Patzer Executive Assistant When I have friends in town I take them to Maison Mathis (+971 4 450 1313, mm-argc.com) in Arabian Ranches for sundowners overlooking the golf course. This casual yet stylish Belgian restaurant is off the tourist trail and has a real local feel (and the mussels and steak tartare are fantastic).

COME ON, JUMP TO IT A trampolining trend is currently sweeping the city, with three fantastic facilities to choose from. Bounce (+971 4 321 1400, bounce.ae) in Al Quoz is Dubai’s original indoor trampoline park and has more than 100 interconnected trampolines, along with wall running, foam pits, dodgeball, a slam-dunk area and a flight academy where experts can teach you how to jump, somersault and do stunts.

In the same neighbourhood, Flip Out (600 567 568, flipout.ae) boasts more than 200 interconnecting trampolines and 10 trampoline-based attractions, including the Double Decker Kids’ Arena – which has smaller mats and custom springs to make the trampolines extra safe for kids and toddlers.

Meanwhile, Jump Boxx (+971 4 288 5744, jump-boxx.com) in Uptown Mirdif has over 120 interconnecting trampolines and a dedicated kids’ court for three- to five-year-olds to jump at their own pace. There are also activities such as dodgeball and basketball, plus ladies-only sessions with all-female staff and a live DJ every Wednesday evening from 4pm to 10pm.

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SOAK UP SOME CULTURE

SWING INTO ACTION

RIDE A ROLLER COASTER Opened in August, IMG Worlds of Adventure (+971 4 403 8888, imgworlds.com) is the world’s largest indoor theme park. It has four unique zones – Cartoon Network, Marvel, Lost Valley–Dinosaur Adventure and IMG Boulevard – under one roof and more than 20 rides and attractions, including a first-of-its-kind Hulk 3D ride with 18 IMAX projectors and a genuinely terrifying Haunted Hotel, which you need to be aged 15 or over to enter. Youngsters will love the Ben 10 5D cinema experience and live stage shows featuring characters from LazyTown, while adrenaline junkies should make a beeline for The Velociraptor roller coaster, which hits speeds of up to 100km in just 2.5 seconds, and Spider-Man Doc Ock’s Revenge, a 400m coaster with spinning carriages. Of the 28 food outlets, we can heartily recommend the Indian street food at Samosa House (be sure to nab one of the tuk-tuk tables), while Tony’s Skydeck, based on Iron Man’s alter ego, serves upmarket steak and seafood with brilliant views over the park. There are also 25 retail outlets stocking plenty of original merchandise that you won’t find anywhere else. Tickets cost Dhs300 for adults and Dhs250 for kids.

Dubai has become a major golf destination and boasts an impressive collection of high-calibre courses.

Emirates Golf Club (+971 4 380 1234, dubaigolf.com) is an old favourite, with two 18-hole par-72 championship courses and a clubhouse inspired by Bedouin tents. The Majlis course, home to the Omega Dubai Desert Classic, a prestigious fixture on the European Tour, has open horizons and stretches of scrubby sand along with more traditional bunkers, while the Faldo, redesigned by Nick Faldo in 2005, has a wadi (valley) running through it, which is sure to challenge first-timers.

Jumeirah Golf Estates (+971 4 818 2000, jumeirahgolfestates.com) has two Greg Norman-designed championship courses matched by excellent club facilities. Inspired by the great parkland courses of Europe and North America, the Earth course is home to the DP World Tour Championship, the grand finale of the European Tour’s Race to Dubai.

If your game is not quite at the level of a Rory McIlroy, sharpen your skills at the more forgiving The Track (+971 4 381 3733, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel. It’s a great ninehole course offering five different tee positions (perfect if you’re a beginner).

Open daily from 6.30am to 11pm, membership is not available so the pay-and-play policy (from Dhs175 for nine holes) means you’re always likely to secure a tee time.

Dubai’s latest architectural marvel is Dubai Opera (+971 4 440 8888, dubaiopera.com), the dhow-shaped performing-arts theatre in the glittering Downtown district. Hoping to one day become as iconic as the Sydney Opera House, the bow of Dubai Opera contains the auditorium, a rooftop restaurant and sky garden with views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain, while the elongated hull area houses waiting areas. The impressive inaugural season includes more than 50 shows ranging from operas and ballets to musical theatre and family-friendly magic shows. This month sees a festive treat in the form of The Nutcracker on Ice, featuring the Imperial Ice Stars, performed from 6-10 December.

With a keen focus on contemporary art, Dubai has a burgeoning art scene centred around the financial district of DIFC and the industrial area of Al Quoz. The former is home to a dozen spaces including Ayyam Gallery (+971 4 439 2395, ayyamgallery.com), which promotes emerging and established artists from the Middle East, and The Empty Quarter (+971 4 323 1210, theemptyquarter.com), which is the city’s only gallery devoted exclusively to fine-art photography.

The hippest art hub, Alserkal Avenue (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), can be found in Al Quoz. There are around 15 galleries housed in converted warehouses here, including Leila Heller Gallery (+971 56 831 3520, leilahellergallery.com) and Gulf Photo Plus (+971 4 380 8545, gulfphotoplus.com), a one-stop shop for shutterbugs of all standards.

Down near the Creek in Bur Dubai, Majlis Gallery (+971 4 353 6233, themajlisgallery.com) is also well worth a visit. It’s Dubai’s oldest art gallery, established over 25 years ago in a wind-tower house in the atmospheric Al Fahidi district, and features regional and international artists.

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DXB City Expert OPENING PAGE: XDubai Skatepark PREVIOUS PAGE: Wild Wadi Waterpark THESE PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Bollywood Parks Dubai; Motiongate Dubai; The Green Planet; Riverland Dubai

SEE AMAZING SEA LIFE Some of Dubai’s best family-friendly attractions can be found under the sea.

Home to over 65,000 marine animals, The Lost Chambers Aquarium (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm is sure to mesmerise young and old. There are over 20 exhibits housing creatures from all over the world, and visitors can also book a behind-the-scenes tour or swim, snorkel or dive with sharks.

Meanwhile, The Dubai Mall is home to the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), one of the largest suspended aquariums on the planet. Marvel at over 140 species of sea life, including more than 300 sharks and rays, or rent some scuba gear and sidle up alongside the inhabitants of the 10-million-litre tank.

No diving experience is required. At the zoo part of this aquatic attraction you’ll get to see the likes of penguins, otters, giant spider crabs and King Croc, who weighs in at 750kg. The Animal Encounter Experiences, meanwhile, provide behind-the-scenes access to otters, rays or saltwater crocodiles. The meet-and-greet sessions take place every hour, daily, from 11am to 10pm.

And if you’ve always dreamed of swimming with dolphins, you can do exactly that at Dolphin Bay (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), the 4.5-hectare dolphin conservation centre at Atlantis, The Palm. Home to a family of friendly Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, you can take your pick from five different dolphin experiences.

CHILL OUT AT A SPA Feeling frazzled after all that fun?

Dubai is home to some of the world’s most luxurious spas that are renowned for their ultra-indulgent treatments.

One of the very best is Amara Spa (+ 971 4 602 1234, dubai.park.hyatt. com) at the beautiful Park Hyatt Dubai.

This magical setting beside the historic creek features a 25m pool and eight luxury suites replete with private gardens and tropical rain showers, three of which are designed for couples. If it’s just the two of you in town, why not embark on Amara’s Couple’s Journey?

Spread over a leisurely 180 minutes, you’ll be pampered to the point of sheer bliss via a body scrub, body wrap, massage and facial. It’s priced at Dhs3,000 per happy couple.

Over at the world’s tallest hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, you’ll find Saray Spa (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com).

Spanning the entire third floor of both towers, it’s one of the largest and most stunning spas in town, with arabesque arches, lanterns and latticework.

Alongside an extensive treatment menu, it has its own Dead Sea flotation pool. Try the Signature Dead Sea Journey, which involves two heavenly hours of salt scrubs, mud masks, soaking and massage for Dhs990.

For a very different panorama, visit LIME Spa (+971 4 323 8888, minorhotels.com) at Desert Palm PER AQUUM Dubai. Overlooking the resort’s gorgeous green polo fields, the spa has six suites, including one just for couples, as well as a steam room, sauna, plunge pool and ice room.

On the menu are a selection of rituals made for two or just for you. If pushed to pick just one, we’d plump for the three-hour Age Defying Ritual: salt scrub, foot reflexology, massage and caviar-and-pearl facial for Dhs895.

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ASK A LOCAL Joanna Johnston Teacher I always send visitors to Jumeirah Mosque. It’s open to non-Muslims and the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures. ae) runs excellent guided tours every day, except Fridays, at 10am. There’s no need to book; you just turn up 15 minutes before the tour starts. Tours cost Dhs20 for adults, and are free for under-12s.

FEEL ON TOP OF THE WORLD Ascending the world’s tallest tower is high on most visitors’ must-do lists, and At The Top, Burj Khalifa (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) doesn’t disappoint.

A high-speed elevator delivers you to the observation deck on level 124 – 452m above the ground – where floor-to-ceiling glass offers 360° views.

You can then walk up a spiral, glasswalled staircase to level 125, where viewfinders provide a virtual tour of the city from the perspective of a falcon. Premium-ticket holders, meanwhile, can also visit the level 148 observation deck – 555 metres up. Open daily until 11pm, advance booking is recommended.

What To Do

HIT THE BEACH If you’re staying in a hotel without its own private beach, but a dose of sea and sand is high on your holiday wish list, head down to one of Dubai’s many beautiful public beaches.

Backed by a low-rise collection of restaurants, cafés and boutiques, and featuring a winding walkway dotted with food stalls and kids’ playgrounds, The Beach at JBR (800 637 227, thebeach.ae) is one of the most popular spots along the Arabian Gulf. There are excellent changing facilities with showers, all manner of activities to enjoy (from beach football to early morning yoga), and you can rent a sunbed with an umbrella and towel for Dhs110 per day.

Another firm favourite is the stretch of sand running the length of Umm Suqeim known as Kite Beach, thanks to its popularity with kite-surfers (you can sign up for lessons, too). It boasts a promenade with a handful of cool cafés, changing facilities and showers, a jogging track, beach tennis, water sports and the XDubai Skatepark, but no sunbed or brolly rental.

TAKE TO THE HIGH SEAS Sailing and yachting are popular pastimes here, and cruising past The Palm towards the iconic Burj Al Arab at sunset is one of the most memorable ways to experience Dubai.

Deep-sea fishing is another big draw, with species such as king mackerel and barracuda tempting anglers.

First Yacht (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) specialises in tailor-made luxury yacht and catamaran charters and private fishing trips, as well as powerboat rides and romantic dinner cruises for two. Sea Hunters (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is another recommended operator that can organise deep-sea fishing tours, luxury yacht and catamaran charters, and flashy speedboat cruises all around Palm Jumeirah. The perfect way to feel the breeze this summer.

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ALL THE FUN OF THE FOUNTAINS At the foot of Burj Khalifa is a 30-acre lake, in which stands the world’s largest dancing fountain. The Dubai Fountain has multiple jets spread across the lake, which shoot water 500ft into the air – about the height of a 50-storey building – while ‘dancing’ to the music. Shows are daily at 1pm and 1.30pm (1.30pm and 2pm on Fridays) and every 30 minutes from 6pm to 11pm. Bag a table on the terrace of a lakeside restaurant (see Where To Eat), watch for free from the Waterfront Promenade, just outside the entrance to The Dubai Mall, or see it in style aboard one of the abras (traditional Arabic boats), which sail as close to the action as possible. Tickets cost Dhs65 per person and can be purchased from a counter on the Waterfront Promenade or from At The Top, Burj Khalifa.

DXB City Expert

CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: The Dubai Fountain; At The Top; LEGOLAND Dubai

EXPERIENCE SNOW AND ICE While a winter wonderland in a desert city sounds fantastical, it does exist in Dubai. Located in Mall of the Emirates, Ski Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) is the go-to place for skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing or just throwing snowballs.

Clothing and equipment are available for hire, and there are lessons for budding skiers aged three and up, and boarders aged eight and over. Don’t miss the free penguin parades, daily at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm and 8pm.

Dubai’s other mega-mall has its own penguins, too, albeit plastic ones. Dubai Ice Rink (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com), the Olympic-sized rink at The Dubai Mall, has public sessions for beginner and intermediate skaters, as well as snowfall sessions with a live DJ every Tuesday at 6pm and 8pm. Penguin Pal skating aids are available for little ones measuring a minimum of 1m tall, while there are Snowmen for adults and children over 12 who are unsteady on their skates. One-on-one and semiprivate lessons can also be arranged.

BE AT ONE WITH NATURE Dubai Butterfly Garden (+971 4 422 8902, dubaibutterflygarden.com) is a fluttery attraction unlike any other in the city. There are nine air-conditioned domes filled with thousands of plants, flowers and butterflies from around the world, along with a butterfly and insect museum. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, it’s located in Al Barsha South, next to the 2,000 sq m Dubai Miracle Garden – which is home to an incredible display of 100 million flowers. Tickets cost Dhs50 (free for children under two).

Back for the season is Dubai Garden Glow (+971 56 4467842, dubaigardenglow.com), which you'll find all aglow near gates 6 and 7 of the wonderful Zabeel Park. It bills itself as the first unique glow theme park in the Middle East, and boasts myraid structures, from iconic buildings through to trees and animals, created

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bridge, while the 500m indoor track allows up to 10 karters to race at any one time. Plus, the karts are equipped with timers so you can test your mettle against your mates.

BEYOND SHOPPING AT THE DUBAI MALL The Dubai Mall has a host of activities to keep the whole tribe entertained.

Gamers of all ages will love SEGA Republic (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a huge indoor theme park with 15 rides including a roller coaster, and hundreds of high-tech games. Little visitors will love KidZania (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a sprawling mini-city that allows children to dabble in 80 different careers, from pilot to police officer. And aviation enthusiasts aged nine and over can fly the world’s largest passenger plane at the Emirates A380 Experience (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), a state-of-theart Airbus flight simulator. by artists from around the world, that are a riot of glorious colour at night. New to the attraction this year is Dinosaur Park, populated by animatronic dinosaurs, replete with roars, for a mini Jurassic Park, of sorts.

The Green Planet (thegreen planetdubai.com) at City Walk in Jumeirah is the region’s first biodome. Flooded with natural light, the five-level glass building recreates the ecosystem of a tropical forest with over 3,000 plants and animals and the world’s largest indoor man-made tree as its centrepiece (because, hey, this is Dubai, after all). While the 25m tree is fake, it is life-sustaining in that real plants have been planted all over it, which will creep and grow across its branches. As you slowly descend from the top of the dome via a winding path, you’ll encounter exotic animals such as toucans, macaws, porcupines and even a sloth. Open from 10am

to 10pm (midnight on weekends), tickets cost Dhs95 for adults and Dhs70 for two- to 12-year-olds.

GET ON TRACK Petrolheads can do more than just drool at Dubai’s legion of supercars.

Slip behind the wheel of a single-seater F3 race car, McLaren, Audi TT or R8 supercar at Dubai Autodrome (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com). Track experiences combine classroom and behind-thewheel training from a professional racing driver, before you’re let loose to do a few laps on your own – guaranteed to get your blood pumping fast. The complex is also home to Kartdrome, which has indoor and outdoor tracks that are suitable for big kids and little ones aged seven and up. The 1.2km outdoor circuit features 17 corners, a tunnel and

GET ON YOUR BIKE Cycling is proving ever popular in the emirate, and the European-style bikehire service Byky (bykystations.com) is the best way to explore the city on two wheels. There are roughly 16 stations dotted around Downtown, Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah. First, you need to register with your creditcard details online, at a rental station or by downloading the Nextbike app to your smartphone. Then a unique code is sent to your mobile to unlock the bike and you’re good to go.

To really stretch your legs, head to Al Qudra Cycling Track, the world’s longest purpose-built cycling track, which loops around the desert dunes near Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa. You can hire bikes from Trek Bikes (+971 4 832 7377, trekbikes.ae) at the start of the track.

What To Do

Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo

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SEE A MOVIE WITH A DIFFERENCE A trip to the cinema takes on a whole new dimension in Dubai.

VOX Cinemas (+971 6 0059 9905, voxcinemas.com) at Mall of the Emirates has 24 screens including a multisensory 4DX theatre that adds moving seats and effects like rain and lightning; the first laser IMAX in the Middle East; and a colourful kids’ cinema. You can even swap popcorn for a gourmet duck burger at Vox Theatre by Rhodes, which combines luxury seats and service with a menu devised by Michelin-starred chef Gary Rhodes.

A luxurious experience also awaits at Reel Cinemas (+971 4 449 1902, reelcinemas.ae) in The Dubai Mall.

The 22-screen multiplex includes four lavish Platinum Movie Suites with just 36 seats. After sinking into your reclining leather chair and snuggling down with your pillow and blanket, press the call button and your personal butler will appear with food and drinks throughout the film. These swish suites can also be found at the 10-screen cinemas at City Walk in Jumeirah and The Beach at JBR. Something unique for kids, cinemawise, is The Dome Box (800 637 227, thedomeboxdubai.ae) at BoxPark on Al Wasl Road. It’s a dome-shaped theatre with a 360° screen that plays short ‘edutainment’ films. Instead of seats there are beanbags – and leaning posts for adults. Each movie lasts roughly 30 minutes.

HIT THE PARKS Dubai Parks and Resorts (+971 4 820 0000, dubaiparksandresorts.com), a USD3.6 billion development in Jebel Ali, will be revealed in all its glory on December 16 when Motiongate Dubai opens to join Bollywood Parks Dubai, LEGOLAND Dubai and LEGOLAND Water Park (see ‘Get Wet And Wild’), which opened last month.

LEGOLAND Dubai (which adjoins LEGOLAND Water Park) was the first to open and has six themed lands with 40 rides, shows and attractions, and

15,000 LEGO models built using more than 60 million bricks.

Bollywood Parks Dubai has rides and attractions inspired by nine colourful Bollywood films and up to 30 live shows a day across six stages. The 850seat Rajmahal Theatre, meanwhile, has a separately ticketed Broadway-style, Bollywood-themed musical.

Lastly, Motiongate Dubai is jam-packed with roller coasters and multimedia dark rides based on characters from blockbuster films, including Ghostbusters, Shrek, Kung Fu Panda and The Smurfs, who even have their own village.

Connecting the entire development is Riverland Dubai, a free-to-enter retail and dining district with more than 50 restaurants and shops spread across four themed zones – The French Village, Boardwalk, India Gate and The Peninsula – and set beside a picturesque man-made river.

Ticket options are varied, so have a look at dubaiparksandresorts.com

IMMERSIVE FUN If you’re a gamer, you’ll love Hub Zero (800 637227, hubzerodubai.com) at City Walk where the real and virtual worlds collide for thrills aplenty.

Shooting games include Resident Evil, an interactive 3D trackless dark ride where you’ll fight off zombies, and Battlefield, where you’ll where vision-enhancing goggles to see the enemy weak point and blast your way to victory with a laser gun. If you like a scare, 4D cinema experience Asura’a Wrath includes leg ticklers, seat vibration, water and wind, while the roller coaster inside Dragon Age pits you in a 360 degree aerial battle, dodging arrows, trees, and a magical vortex. Tickets can be booked online at hubzerodubai.com, and range from Dhs210 to Dhs260.

GET WET AND WILD Water babies are spoilt for choice as Dubai has two world-class water parks offering something for all ages.

Located in front of the sail-shaped

DXB City Expert

Burj Al Arab, Wild Wadi (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is the more manageable of the two, with over 30 rides and attractions. From kid-friendly slides and the relaxing lazy river to adrenaline-fuelled surfing experiences and the truly terrifying Jumeirah Sceirah, it’s impossible not to have fun at this fantastic park.

Over on Palm Jumeirah you’ll find Aquaventure (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures. com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm. It comprises 17 hectares of heart-stopping slides, rides, pools and interconnecting waterways, along with a huge kids’ play area, exhilarating zip line, pristine private beach, private cabanas and the not-so-small matter of Shark Lagoon, where you can handfeed gentle rays. Celebrating your birthday while in Dubai? Register online at atlantisthepalm.com for a free Aquaventure day pass to use anytime during your birthday week.

Newly opened, LEGOLAND Water Park (legoland.ae) is part of Dubai Parks and Resorts, which consists of three separate theme parks including LEGOLAND Dubai.

Designed for kids aged two to 12, the troops can slip, slide and splash their way through 15 LEGO-inspired water slides, raft rides and pools. We like the sound of the Build-A-Raft-River, where you can construct your own LEGO raft and float around the lazy river, while the DUPLO area has slides, rides and play areas for toddlers. LEGOLAND Dubai and LEGOLAND Water Park are classed as two separate parks, each requiring their own ticket; the twopark combo ticket allows you to move freely between both parks and offers the best value for families. Valid for one day, it costs Dhs395 for adults and Dhs350 for kids. Otherwise, a one-day ticket for the water park costs Dhs240 for adults and Dhs205 for children. Under-threes get free entry to LEGOLAND Dubai, but must pay a small fee to enter the water park, which includes a swim nappy.

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Chapter SIX

WHERE TO

go Where once it was a city bereft of cool clubs and nightlife to speak of, Dubai now attracts the biggest names in the business to a stellar lineup of fabulous venues. Get your glad rags on – we’re going out

RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH FIREWORKS The city’s biggest displays – and by biggest, we’re talking record-setting – are at Burj Khalifa, Burj Al Arab and Palm Jumeirah. You can see all three without having to part with a single dirham: head to the twinkling Downtown Dubai boulevard (late afternoon/very early evening) for the former, and to Kite Beach (again, very early) for a great view of the latter two.

However, if you want to see in 2017 in style, a great vantage point for Burj Khalifa is the wonderful terrace at Treehouse (taxi: Taj Dubai + 971 4 438 3127) at Taj Dubai. Revellers can

indulge in free-flowing Veuve Clicquot and premium spirits while DJ Tayllor lays down the tracks. Tickets are priced at Dhs1,500 per person, with upperdeck VVIP tables, accommodating up to 12 people, costing Dhs20,000.

For a ringside seat for all the action at Burj Al Arab, head to Bahri Bar (taxi: Madinat Jumeirah +971 4 432 3232) at Jumeirah Mina A’Salam, where unlimited selected beverages, canapés, pass-arounds and platters are yours for Dhs995 per person.

Top billing has to go to Vault (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis, +971 4 414 3000) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, the world’s tallest hotel. For

a more than reasonable Dhs500 per person, you’ll be high in the sky enjoying canapés and unlimited house beverages between 9pm and midnight – along with panoramic views of the city and its firework displays.

FOR THE BEST DJS 360° (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, +971 4 406 8999) is one of the longestrunning clubs in Dubai, and boasts panoramic views across the city from its perch in the middle of the Arabian Gulf. With a stunning deck and indoor nightclub, it hosts resident DJs every Friday for your deep-house

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ABOUT THIS CHAPTER The UAE weekend is Friday/Saturday. As such, Thursday and Friday nights are usually the busiest across town. The legal age to drink alcohol in Dubai – and enter a nightclub – is 21, and while nowhere employs a seriously strict dress-code policy, you won’t get in if you’re dressed for the beach – no shorts, open-toe sandals or the like in this town, please. We’ve included a taxi reference for you – ask the driver to head here – as most will not know the location of the club or lounge if you say its name only.

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kicks, while rotating promoters on Thursdays bring in soulful house, UK bass and dance classics.

Since launching four years ago, Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE (taxi: Golden Tulip Al Jazira Hotels & Resort, Ghantoot, +971 51 133 3400) has set the benchmark high for house-music parties in the country. Thousands of glamazons make the 30-minute journey towards Abu Dhabi for this Balearic beach party. The lineups are always cutting-edge and big on the house market: think Ibiza icons like Jamie Jones, Dixon and Marco Carola.

Continuing with the beach-party theme, Zero Gravity (taxi: Skydive Dubai, +971 4 399 0009) is the city’s current hot spot. Part beach club, part open-air club and packed every weekend, it has welcomed big names like Paul Van Dyk and Mark Ronson as well as more alternative acts like Mr Scruff to play under the stars.

Nikki Beach (taxi: Pearl Jumeirah, +971 4 376 6162) is the city’s newest beach club and the 13th of its kind to open worldwide. Like its stylish global counterparts in Miami and Marbella, the Dubai outpost has a host of resident DJs and attracts a beautiful crowd who come to party from early afternoon around blue-tiled pools surrounded by white daybeds and cabanas with billowing drapes.

With a panoramic view of Dubai’s skyline, White Dubai (taxi: The Meydan, +971 50 443 0933) is the sister lounge and club to the Beirut original. And like its Lebanese sibling, it’s high on the glam factor, with a good-looking crowd arriving around midnight every Thursday, Friday and Saturday for the hip-hop and EDM soundtrack. And, of course, the stunning view back into the city.

Vii Club (taxi: Conrad Hotel, +971 50 169 6777) boasts ultra-glamorous mahogany-finished walls, deep-plum furniture and a customised ceiling that flashes in sync to the music, as well as a ‘secret garden’ terrace that’s a stunning spot to kick off your night. Head here on Thursdays for the HITS night, which sees DJ Kennedy spin mashups and classic hits from the Eighties and

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Nineties, interwoven with the biggest singles to date, from 11pm to 3am.

From the shores of the south of France comes the VIP Room (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, +971 52 881 8888), bringing with it a reputation for hosting big urban acts and a celebrity clientele. The Dubai outpost does much the same, with hiphop and house sharing deck duties on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.

Another imported chain, Provocateur (taxi: The Four Seasons Dubai, + 971 55 211 8222) began life in New York as a bottle-service club that catered to high-end house-music lovers. Fittingly, the Dubai branch welcomed 4/4 heavyweights like Seth Troxler and White Isle favourite Solomon during its first season. More recently, it has shifted its focus to homegrown talents.

Movida (taxi: Radisson Royal Hotel, +971 55 174 4449) is one of the city’s regular hot spots. It frequently hosts cameos from established and up-andcoming rappers (including OT Genasis), and has a very commercial hip-hop and mainstream house/EDM soundtrack on the weekend. If you like to see bottles of bubbly with sparklers in them paraded every 20 minutes, this is the club for you.

Home to the beautiful and the bizarre, Cirque le Soir (taxi: Fairmont Hotel, +971 50 995 5400) is the Dubai offshoot of London’s A-list haunt. Open Monday to Friday from 10.30pm to 3am, it features performances from an outlandish cast of contortionists, stiltwalkers and fire-eaters, alongside some of the city’s best DJs. Monday’s HipHop Chic with DJ Junior J is regularly voted the best urban night in town.

FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT We’re not sure why it hasn’t been done before, but Stereo Arcade (taxi: Double Tree by Hilton, +971 52 618 2424) combines a stereo arcade (with over 50,000 games) with a slushy machine, hot-dog stand and more. Fun aside, the hi-tech club plays Eighties and Nineties hits every weekend.

For something with a real twist, push the bookcase in the lobby of

DXB City Expert PREVIOUS PAGE: Nasimi THESE PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Blind Dragon (and top right); Barasti NEXT PAGE: Treehouse

the Dusit Thani hotel. It will open to reveal a hidden door, on which you must knock to gain entry to the Nippon Bottle Company (taxi: Dusit Thani, +971 4 357 0779), a Japanese speakeasy. It offers an impressive list of Japanese drinks, which are now considered to be some of the best in the world.

Also tucked away on the ground floor of a five-star hotel – in this case, the Conrad Dubai – is Little Black Door (+971 55 623 1620, knocktoenter.com). You’ll have no problem spotting it, though – the ‘little black door’ is actually huge – and inside you’ll find a classy, clubstyle lounge, with crystal chandeliers

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hanging from leather-clad ceilings, opulent furnishings and distressedbrick walls. The resident DJs play neo-soul and classic jazz, while you nibble on Mediterranean bar bites and sip fabulous cocktails.

Hobo (taxi: Nassima Royal Hotel, +971 55 927 0815) is another cool place with a secretive, speakeasy feel. To find it you’ll have to venture through the fourth floor of the car park to the rear of the Nassima Royal Hotel, where you’ll find a small sign flanked by dapper doormen. They’ll lead you inside, where mixologists stir up a storm and DJs Fredrick Stone and Jean B spin vinyl records – no mixing by button here, thankfully.

With an intimate, underground vibe, it’s open Mondays and Saturdays only, from 11pm.

CRACKING KARAOKE Karaoke is all the rage in Dubai at the moment, with two new venues opening in recent months. Blind Dragon (+971 4 437 0033, blinddragondubai.com), at The Atrium at Al Habtoor City on the banks of the new Dubai Water Canal, is the sister venue to the original A-list LA hangout. The opulent Asianthemed lounge has public and private karaoke suites where you can enjoy cocktails and light bites as you belt out tunes, plus there’s a resident

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DJ playing nightly until the early hours. Open from Tuesday through to Saturday from 5pm until 2am.

Imported from London and set to open this month at the Grand Millennium in Barsha Heights, Lucky Voice (+971 4 429 9999, millenniumhotels.com) promises to be a top spot for testing your rap skills, singing soft-rock anthems or just screaming cheesy pop tunes to your heart’s content. Eleven private pods allow groups of six to 18 people to warble away without (much) fear of embarrassment, while the 15,000-song playlist means you’re almost guaranteed to find the perfect tune for you. There’s also a VIP pod suitable for 25.

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THE BEST LIVE MUSIC Live music abounds at the aptly titled The Music Room (taxi: Majestic Tower Hotel, +971 4 501 2534) in Bur Dubai. Promising local – and frequently international – bands, this spacious venue attracts a knowledgeable crowd.

Musically open-minded, it’s hosted local metal giants Nervecell, Bon Jovi tribute acts, and alternative DJs like drum-and-bass kingpin Goldie and jazz-funk troubadour Quantic.

Staying on this side of town, Club7 (taxi: Park Regis Kris Kin Hotel, +971 4 377 1210) is a popular haunt where the music is as colourful as the psychedelic-tinged décor. Popular with locals and tourists of all nationalities, it’s a great place for a spot of cheesy, affordable fun. Another old-timer to check out on this side of town is Marines Club (taxi: SeaView Hotel, +971 4 355 8080), where the resident rock band ensures the mostly Filipino crowd keeps rocking out until the wee small hours.

Staying with the rock vibe, the world-famous Hard Rock Café (taxi: Festival City, +971 4 232 8900) is always a great spot for live rock music, and Dubai’s outlet is no different.

The original Hard Rock Dubai caused something of a local stir when it was demolished a few years back, but the new venue in Dubai Festival City has a whole host of musical memorabilia – including a bolero jacket worn by the late Prince and Mick Fleetwood’s Tama drums. It’s as close as you’ll get to an all-American rock bar.

Embracing all things African, Nairobi-owned KIZA (taxi: Emirates Financial Towers, +971 4 453 9038) is the city’s first authentic African lounge and restaurant. Boasting its very own Afro-jazz troupe, The KIZA band shakes things up every Wednesday,

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Thursday and Saturday, guaranteed to inject a bit of soul into your evening.

Muze (taxi: Souk Al Bahar, +971 52 297 2097) in Downtown Dubai offers an eclectic lineup that includes Latin, Arabic fusion and world music.

House acts include the all-Cuban Son de Verdad, while jazz and soul singer Rouba and her band take to the stage every Friday. The lounge also does mean Mexican-fusion food and cocktails, plus there are three free drinks for ladies every Friday.

Open Wednesday to Friday from 8pm to 2am, it’s best to phone ahead to reserve a table.

Wednesday nights mean jazz time at New York spinoff Serafina (taxi: Souk Al Bahar, +971 4 363 8447), overlooking the impressive Dubai Fountain. Tuck into authentic Italian cuisine while Lebanese brothers Rony and Elie Afif keep you entertained with their musical brilliance – even better if you happen to head here on one of the nights that local celebrity Hamdan Al Abri joins the duo.

An upbeat eatery boasting some great live music is Jazz@Pizza Express (taxi: Movenpick, JLT, +971 4 441 6342), which – you’ve guessed it – serves up pizza and jazz. With different themed sessions including open-mic nights and a music-centric Friday brunch, it’s good value for money and a great spot for a jam.

For a taste of music, Big Easystyle, head to Nola (taxi: Armanda Tower, JLT, +971 3 998 155) and enjoy entertainment from a live saxophonist every Friday at this New Orleans-inspired secret.

For the hipsters, it’s got to be Tribeca (taxi: JA Ocean View Hotel, +971 4 814 5599), where the relaxed vibe comes with a side of chilled-out music, perfectly complemented by an accompanying glass of organic grape.

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SIPPING UNDER THE STARS LADIES’ NIGHTS WE LOVE Like Friday brunch, ‘ladies’ night’ is something of a Dubai institution.

Usually staged on Tuesdays, but now increasingly popping up at least somewhere throughout the week, the nights are so named because ladies get to drink for free, in some places to a limitless degree.

For a girlie gathering overlooking Burj Al Arab, Cove Beach (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel; +971 50 454 6920) is a chic beach club with a South of France-style vibe. Every Tuesday from 8pm to 1am, ladies can indulge in free-flowing pink grape, cocktails and canapés for Dhs100 per person.

If you want to catch some rays while you’re at it, the same offer is available on Wednesdays from midday to 7pm, including a sunbed and live DJ tunes.

If you’d rather soak up Dubai’s Blade Runner-esque skyline, Vault (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, +971 50 738 1388), located on the 71st and 72nd floors of the world’s tallest hotel, is just the ticket. Ladies can enjoy three complimentary drinks here every Tuesday from 7pm to midnight, while DJ Adam J mixes an eclectic selection of beats – from R&B and house music through to 1980s and 1990s old-school.

Dress to impress for the Leave Your Boyfriend At Home ladies’ night at Cavalli Club (taxi: Fairmont Dubai, +971 50 991 0400). Every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 3am, ladies are treated to complimentary drinks at this ultraglam club, while resident DJs Michka and Nick Tohme take care of the beats.

An equally buzzy night – for both girls and guys – can be had at W Lounge (taxi: W Dubai, +971 4 436 6666).

Every Sunday from 8pm until late, ladies can enjoy three complimentary drinks, plus 50% off the food and beverage menu from 11.30pm. Men need not be disappointed – the first drink is on the house when you use the #SocialSundays hashtag on social media. Best get instagramming...

For most of the year, Dubai is blessed with gorgeous weather, which means there’s no shortage of excellent alfresco bars and lounges. Barasti (taxi: Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, +971 4 399 333) has been ruling the roost for 20 years, pulling in thousands of revellers every weekend.

It combines live music, daily sunbathing sessions, a sand-between-your-toes dance floor and more serving stations than you can shake an empty glass at.

With Burj Khalifa in its back garden, Treehouse (taxi: Taj Dubai, +971 4 438 3100) has unbeatable views from its leafy third-floor terrace. Wooden floors, comfy sofas and an open-air fireplace create an intimate feel, and the music grows as the night goes on, with DJ Tayllor playing an eclectic mix of commercial and deep-house tunes.

If you fancy your drink with a side of vertigo, Pure Sky Lounge (taxi: Hilton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 111) is a sure bet. Decked out in white, blue and plenty of glass, the 35th-floor lounge offers stunning views out to sea and a very cool soundtrack. Another elevated alfresco drink can be had, this time at what is the highest rooftop restaurant and lounge in Dubai – one to tick off the 'to do' list) – at Zephyr (taxi: Warwick Hotel, +971 4 506 9600). Panoramic views of Burj Khalifa, the sea and Downtown Dubai are yours to enjoy alongside a great selection of cocktails and well-priced wine.

Bliss Lounge (taxi: Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 5533) is one of Dubai Marina’s best outdoor options. The beachside lounge offers excellent sea views from one of the city’s most high-profile stretches of shoreline and, at night, it turns into an excellent open-air club with some of the best resident DJs in Dubai dropping soul-infused house music.

While most of Dubai’s nightlife has shifted south, there are still plenty of panoramic spots to be savoured at the top of town. Cielo Sky Lounge (taxi: Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club, +971 4 416 1800) boasts knockout views, a Balearic vibe and resident DJs.

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From amazing architecture to sweeping sandscapes, you’ll have lots of memories of your time in Dubai to share via social media. Here are some of our favourite Instagram snaps of the city. Be sure to share your #VisitDubai and #MyDubai moments, too

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4. Photo credit: @ninni_dxb

7. Photo credit: @paul.v.ek

A magnificent entrance to Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach.

5. Photo credit: @benoyglobal Shop up a storm during Dubai Shopping Festival at City Walk.

6. Photo credit: @atlantisthepalm Enjoy authentic Lebanese cuisine like this apricot muhalabiya at Ayamna.

Burj Khalifa in Downtown Dubai always puts on the glitz.

8. Photo credit: @atlantisthepalm Witness Atlantis, The Palm’s fantastic fireworks display this New Year’s Eve. 9. Photo credit: @thegreenplanetdubai Wander through a tropical forest at The Green Planet biodome.

1. Photo credit: @halzaim The sail-shaped Burj Al Arab is a true icon of Dubai.

2. Photo credit: @arabianadventures Past and present meet during Arabian Adventures’ New Dubai City Tour.

3. Photo credit: @sidharthvithaldas The sky’s the limit in the amazing vertical city of Dubai.