DXB City Expert - October'17

October 2017

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The insider’s guide to Dubai’s must-have visitor experiences Activities On the water activities to make you smile Tours Let those in the know showcase their city Shopping From mega malls to homegrown designers Dining Our pick of the best restaurants and cool cafés

Wanderlust FUN • FOOD • FREEDOM

Brunch

our epic brunch is now enhanced even further with an all new japanese section to please our foodies

AED 425

PER PERSON INCLUDING FOOD & BEVERAGES

Every Friday From 1pm to 4pm

Enjoy a 20% discount on beverages from 4pm to 8pm at the Lust after-party in Square with DJ ANDRII! Age policy: 21 and above Garden restaurant, 5th Floor JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

Welcome Note

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DXB City Expert

ediTorial Editorial Director John Thatcher Managing Editor Faye Bartle Assistant Editor Abby Patterson

arT Art Director Kerri Bennett Designer Jamie Pudsey

commercial Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Commercial Director Rawan Chehab Business Development Manager Mohamed Galal

ProdUcTion Production Manager Muthu Kumar

A WA R M

To

DUBAI We know it can feel a little overwhelming when you first set foot in Dubai.

How exactly do you explore this ultra-modern metropolis? Where do you start?

We love Dubai and we want to ensure that you feel the same, which is why we decided to create this handy-sized, helpful guide to ease you on your way.

Rather than present you with a long list of recommendations that would take you the duration of your holiday to read, our Dubai-based team of in-the-know writers have cherry-picked the city’s best bits – leaving you free to simply enjoy it.

Inside this guide you’ll find insider knowledge on everything from the best restaurants with a view and tips on where to shop for clothes made by the finest local fashion designers, to the coolest clubs and top-notch family entertainment.

We’ll also tell you which of the many organised tours are the best to take to see all of this city’s ample attractions.

All that remains is for us to wish you the holiday of a lifetime. Go get it…

John ThaTcher Editorial Director DXB City Expert

Cover image: Watersports at Hilton Dubai Jumeirah

F R I DAY

Fork

Cork

Treat yourself to a tantalising Friday Brunch to remember at Crescendo, Anantara The Palm.

Experience a mouth-watering culinary journey through a selection of global flavours in a relaxed, yet lively setting for friends and family.

Every Friday 1.00 pm – 4.00 pm AED 345 per person, including soft beverages AED 499 per person, including house beverages AED 599 per person, including Italian sparkling AED 699 per person, including bubbly *Inclusive of 10% service charge and 10% municipality fee

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT P.O. BOX 71607, EAST CRESCENT, PALM JUMEIRAH, DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES T +971 4 567 8304 • F +971 4 567 8009 • E restaurants.dubai@anantara.com

Contents

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DXB City Expert

The

CONTENTS 5

On ArrivAl All you need to know when you touch down in Dubai.

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SO ThiS iS DubAi A little local knowledge to help ease your way into the city.

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TOp Of The TOurS Let the experts take the strain out of sightseeing.

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Where TO eAT Ranging from fine dining and ‘only in Dubai’ eats to family favourites and best budget options, this chapter comes stuffed with our recommendations.

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Where TO ShOp With outlet malls and undercover markets, there’s more to Dubai’s shopping scene than merely the world’s biggest mall. Credit cards at the ready…

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WhAT TO DO Underwater, on the water, in the sand and in the snow: there are myriad ways to enjoy yourself in this city. We’ve selected the best.

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Where TO GO From hip hangouts to the best live music venues and leading ladies' nights, we hope you’ve packed your dancing shoes – you’re going to need them.

Produced for dnata Travel by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors contained in DXB City Expert.

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On Arrival

DXB City Expert

On

ARRIVAL You’re almost there now, but before you head off to your hotel here’s a little something to help you on your way

Leaving The airporT There are ample public taxis available at the airport, although there’s every chance you’ll have to queue to get one.

As you do so, you may notice a line of estate-sized pink-roof taxis. These are exclusively for women and families, and are helmed by female drivers only.

There are also taxis specifically for special-needs travellers – both can be requested from the taxi-line attendant once you’re at the front of the queue.

Your fare will include an airport pickup fee of Dhs25, which is the amount the meter will start from.

Dubai International Airport is also serviced by Dubai Metro. However, each passenger is restricted to two pieces of luggage, one of which shouldn’t be larger than hand luggage.

Trains run approximately every 10 minutes and depart from Terminals 1 and 3 – just follow the signs.

Trains start at 5.50am (5.30am on Thursdays), and stop at midnight (1am on Thursdays and Fridays). But be aware that trains start at only 10am on Fridays. There are just two lines, so it’s easy to figure out your route, and you’ll likely find taxis at each station to take you to your specific address.

If you’re intending to hire a car on arrival in Dubai, you’ll find all the major operators are present at the airport.

Chief among them is Hertz, which is

available at both Terminal 1 (+971 4 224 5222) and Terminal 3 (+971 4 220 3013) of Dubai International Airport.

Drivers must be aged 21 or over and be in possession of a valid driving licence from their home country. Remember that driving in Dubai is on the righthand side of the road.

hire a heLping hand from marhaba If you’re reading this before you travel to Dubai, or if you haven’t yet planned your return journey to the airport, it’s well worth checking out the services of Marhaba (+971 4 389 8989, marhabaservices.com).

On arrival, the always-smiling staff will greet you as you come off the aircraft, before ferrying you by buggy to passport control and whizzing you past the queues (which can be long), to their dedicated counters and beyond, where a porter will collect your luggage.

Services are tailored to suit individuals, families and those with specific needs.

Fast-tracking through airport procedures is a feature of any return journey you make with Marhaba too, while you can also book a chauffeur pick-up from anywhere in Dubai and enjoy the hospitality of their airport lounge – and its complimentary food and drink – as you await boarding.

have a word Although English is spoken and understood pretty much everywhere you’ll go in Dubai, it’s polite to try a little Arabic when you show your passport on arrival. If Arabic’s not your native tongue, here are a few helpful words…

Marhaba : Hello Sabah al-khayr : Good morning As-salaam alaikum : Peace be upon you Ma’assalama : Goodbye Minfadlak : Please Shukran : Thank you

geT connecTed Before departing the airport you may wish to buy a sim card that’s designed for visitors to use while in the UAE. It costs Dhs35 and provides you with the Visitor Mobile Line (VML), allowing you to make calls – or text – while in Dubai at a fraction of the cost you’ll pay for roaming. You can buy it from the Du shop in the arrivals hall of both Terminal 1 and Terminal 3. Once purchased you can top it up by buying prepaid cards at various convenient locations across the city, including du shops. See du.ae for a list of locations.

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

show some respect

IS

Dubai is a very warm and welcoming city but, like anywhere else you travel in the world, you’ll want to show respect for local sensibilities.

These are a few things to keep in mind while enjoying your holiday…

DU B A I Chapter oNe

You’ve read about it, seen the pictures and marvelled from afar.

Now you’re here. Our inside track will get you up to speed so you can get on with having the holiday of a lifetime

A little bit About this greAt city of ours With a skyline dominated by towering skyscrapers and now-iconic structures, such as Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa, it’s hard to imagine that Dubai was once little more than a fishing village.

The Bani Yas tribe settled next to Dubai Creek in 1833, and the area soon became a hub for fishing, pearling and trading. The discovery of ‘black gold’ in 1966 triggered Dubai’s remarkable transformation into the glittering city of today.

In 1971, Dubai joined with six neighbouring emirates – Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujairah and (in 1972) Ras al-Khaimah – to form the United Arab Emirates, and this union is celebrated each year on 2 December. Under the late Sheikh Zayed, the first president of the UAE, the country blossomed and has developed into one of the world’s most prosperous, while still remaining true to its rich heritage of Bedouin, Islamic and Emirati cultures.

Today, Dubai is home to over 200 nationalities that are attracted by its opportunities and lifestyle. Such has been the city’s rapid expansion

beyond its creek origins that residents now commonly refer to ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, with the old part encompassing Dubai Creek and the wider Bur Dubai area in the north of the city, and the new part featuring the strictly modern superstructures – Downtown Dubai, Dubai Marina and others – that spread for miles into the south of the city.

the bAsics, iN No more thAN 140 chArActers The Climate During the winter, from October, it's warm and pleasant with temperatures hovering around 25°C (77°F) – be sure to slather on the suncream!

The Currency The UAE Dirham is what you’ll use.

Notes come in 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5, and their value is pegged at Dhs3.67 = USD1.

The Weekend The UAE’s weekend is Friday/Saturday.

Dubai Metro services start at 10am on Fridays and 5.50am on Saturdays, and run until 1am on weekends.

Be sure to refrain from over-the-top public displays of affection, even when in nightclubs.

Do not succumb to the urge to make rude hand gestures to other people – doing so could land you in hot water.

Dress modestly when outside the confines of your hotel, particularly if you’re heading to a mall, where women shouldn't leave shoulders bare.

Taking photos of some government buildings and all military sites is strictly prohibited. Stick to the tourist attractions when you’re choosing a background for selfies.

Don’t drink alcohol, or be seen to be overly intoxicated, outside of licensed premises. Unruly behaviour isn’t tolerated.

SATURDAY SESSIONS with

Extend your weekend with chilled Saturday Sessions featuring The Boxtones Trio, the multi-award winning band.

Enjoy juicy BBQ grills and cool crafted beverages with your family and friends on the banks of the Dubai Water Canal, at the new CafĂŠ Artois

by Bridgewater Tavern.

7th and 28th October 2017 BridgewaterTavern

#BridgewaterTavern

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

BRUNCH NATION Join our new British Brunch inspired by a blend of cultures and tastes across the Commonwealth. Celebrate food in a social setting, where a massive array of dishes hit your table. Continue the night partying at The Observatory or chill at The Croft’s terrace.

Starting from 15 September, AED 399 per person including selected house beverages, every Friday from 12.30pm to 3.30pm

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites

@thecroftdubai

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud Street | Dubai Marina T. 971.4.319.4000 | marriottharbourdubaidining.com

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DXB City Expert

Sheikh ZayeD roaD

Jumeirah Beach Road, as well as trendy shops, cafés and restaurants at popular new developments such as The Galleria Mall, BoxPark and City Walk. Jumeirah Mosque is another reason to visit.

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers guided tours every Saturday to Thursday at 10am (adults, Dhs20; under-12s go free).

So This Is Dubai

Get Your Bearings

Dubai Creek

Throughout this guide we’ve referenced areas of Dubai, which to the first-time visitor may mean nothing at all. To help, here’s the skinny on the city’s districts you’ll most likely encounter...

Downtown Dubai Home to the world’s largest mall, tallest tower and biggest fountain, Dubai’s showpiece city centre is as glitzy as it gets. Lined with palm trees that twinkle with thousands of fairy lights, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard boasts five-star hotels, restaurants, a San Francisco-style tram and a constant flow of supercars.

Another popular spot is Souk Al Bahar (‘market of the sailor’), a waterfront entertainment and dining hub overlooking The Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa.

Dubai Marina anD Jbr In the south of the city, this buzzing district includes a man-made marina and a forest of skyscrapers that stretch from Sheikh Zayed Road to Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). Brimming with hotels and restaurants, there are two beachfront promenades, The Walk and The Beach at JBR, packed with familyfriendly eateries. You’ll also find the Marina Mall and Dubai Tram, which connects to Dubai Metro and the Palm Jumeirah monorail.

bur Dubai anD Deira Flanking the southern side of Dubai Creek, Bur Dubai is the oldest part of the city. Here you’ll find the majority of the city’s historical sites, including Dubai Museum and Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House, as well as restored wind-tower houses and a textile souk. Over the water, Deira is a melting pot of Arab, Asian and African cultures and a great spot for cheap street eats, as well as shopping in the Gold Souk and Spice Souk.

The 8km stretch of the main highway between Business Bay and the Dubai World Trade Centre roundabout is popular with tourists, expats and locals alike, thanks to the clutch of five-star hotels including Fairmont Dubai, Conrad Dubai and The H Dubai, which are easily reached by metro (stations line Sheikh Zayed Road). Just past the roundabout is the brilliant Zabeel Park, one of the city’s largest green spaces.

JuMeirah Home to sprawling villas and excellent beaches, this low-rise suburb overlaps with Umm Suqeim (where you’ll find Burj Al Arab and Madinat Jumeirah, an arabesque-inspired hotel, dining and entertainment complex). Jumeirah is known for boutique shopping along

PalM JuMeirah Even if you’re not staying here, you can still visit the man-made island that’s become a symbol of Dubai.

A monorail runs along the length of the trunk to Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, where you can spend the day at Aquaventure Waterpark. Meanwhile, the 11km-long crescent has a string of five-star hotels with restaurants and spas open to non-guests.

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So This Is Dubai

10 of the best ways to do Dubai

Legoland Dubai

Best for… Building family memories Bond as you build at Legoland Dubai, which features over 40 Lego themed rides, shows and attractions, including more than 60 million Lego bricks to get to grips with. Plus, you can splash around in the adjacent Legoland Water Park, which has 20 waterslides, a wave pool and the awesome Build-A-RaftRiver. The parks are designed especially for families with children aged two to 12. Visitors can purchase day tickets for Dhs235 per park, or Dhs285 for two parks. Kids below the age of three enter Legoland Dubai for free. legoland.ae

Best for… soothing the senses Weary from the journey? Head to Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont The Palm on Palm Jumeirah for the 90-minute Neroli Blossom Sensory Massage. It combines reflexology, tension release and aromatherapy with deep breathing and energy balancing techniques to relax the body and clear the mind. Dhs689 per person. Available daily from 10am to 9pm throughout October. +971 4 457 3545, fairmont. com/palm-dubai

Best for… an authentic Bavarian celeBration Tuck into hearty Oktoberfest-inspired dishes and sip signature German beverages to the sound of rousing Bavarian music at Hofbräuhaus at JW Marriott Hotel Dubai in Deira.

A flavour of Munich comes in the form of dishes such as Bavarian Beef Goulash and Veal Dumplings.

Be sure to grab a piece of the oversized pretzel. From Dhs120 for the Bavarian buffet (food only). Until 28 October, Sat to Weds. +971 4 607 7977, discoverjwmarriottdubai.com

Best for… feeling the sand Between your toes Bag a spot on the sand at Kite Beach, one of Dubai’s liveliest public beaches which, as the name suggests, is popular

DXB City Expert

a bite of traditional English fruitcake.

From Dhs98 per person. Available at Bateel’s boutiques and cafés in the UAE. bateel.com

Best for… whizzing down a water slide

among kite surfers. Paddle in the surf before grabbing a smoothie and watching the world go by. kitebeach.ae

Best for… getting your spook on If you’re here for Halloween, you can be spooked at Desert Palm Dubai, which is hosting a frightening Friday brunch on 27 October with lots of ghostlylooking food and drink. From Dhs195. +971 4 323 8888, desertpalm.ae

Best for… little gourmands For a drama-free family meal that’ll please adults and children alike, head to Demoiselle by Galvin. The stylish bistro, by the Michelin-starred Galvin Brothers, has launched a children’s menu inspired by their love for French cooking. Classic choices include Chicken Goujons served with lightly salted French Fries and the Mini Galvin Burger Deluxe. Grown-ups can tuck into dream dishes like Crisp duck leg confit with green beans and shallot salad. Located at City Walk, +971 4 590 5076, demoiselledubai.com

Best for… an araBian-style high tea Take time out for a restorative afternoon tea at Café Bateel, during which you’ll be served an assortment of gourmet treats and a delicate brew.

All the food has Middle Eastern flair, from the Baba Ghanoush toast served alongside a classic salmon finger sandwich to the Kholas Pecan Pie with

There are a number of waterparks to choose from in the emirate but Wild Wadi is a firm favourite. Float along the lazy river before braving Jumeirah Sceirah – simply climb the tower, step into the capsule and then wait for the floor beneath you to fall away. Before you can blink, you’ll be whizzing down the 120-metre-long slide at a speed of 80 km/h. Entry fees are based on height, from Dhs260 for those below 1.1 metres.

Children aged two and under go free.

Check the website for opening hours, jumeirah.com

Best for… a walk in the park Enjoy a boat ride followed by a gourmet picnic on the grass at Zabeel Park, one of the emirate’s best green spaces.

This month marks the start of the Ripe Market winter season. Taking place every Friday from 9am to 3pm, this popular community event brings together 100 local businesses offering delicious food and must-buys from artisans, designers and jewellery makers, with musical entertainment adding to the ambience. ripeme.com

Best for… al fresco shopping Make the most of the cooler weather with some outdoor retail therapy.

City Walk (citywalk.ae) is popular among the style set for its cool mix of shops, such as BHV Marais, Cath Kidston, Coach, Maje and Diane von Furstenberg, among others. Plus, there are some fantastic eateries for a midspree pit stop, including Harpers Bazaar Café and The Hummingbird Bakery.

Alternatively, feel the sea breeze at The Beach at JBR (thebeach.ae) – another top stop-off that’s home to everything from homegrown boutique Sauce OnSea to Patrizia Pepe. Be sure to check out The Market at The Beach, which is packed with crafty stalls.

Top Of The Tours

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Top OF THE

TOURS Chapter T WO

Bags unpacked, sunblock slathered on, it’s time to get out and see what this city is all about. But with its climate dictating a dearth of paved walkways, Dubai isn’t a place you can easily explore on foot.

Luckily, our friends at Arabian Adventures and City Sightseeing have just the answer

DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

TradiTiOnal dubai CiTy TOur A must-do in Dubai Discover the old, traditional neighbourhoods of Dubai and explore the rich heritage, trading culture and vibrant souks.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Photo stop close to Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Mosque and Zabeel Palace • Visit to Dubai Museum • Traditional abra (water taxi) crossing over Dubai Creek • Walk through the Spice and Gold Souks • Add a one-hour dhow cruise to your tour for just Dhs50 dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and German: SatThu (half day; morning), Fri (afternoon only); French and Italian: Sun, Wed (half day; morning); Portuguese and Spanish: Mon, Thu (full day), includes a tour of New Dubai; Russian: Sat, Tue (half day; morning); Mandarin: Mon, Thu (half day; morning); Japanese: daily (half day; morning) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up and drop-off; tour guide GOOd TO knOW: Available in different languages; ask about adding a Dhow Cruise or Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari; when departing from Abu Dhabi, this is a full-day tour on Sun and Tue, including a stop at The Dubai Mall in the afternoon; operates year-round; modest dress and comfortable walking shoes are recommended lanGuaGeS: English and German; French and Italian; Portuguese and Spanish; Russian; Mandarin; Japanese deparTinG frOM: All emirates priCinG: From Dhs165

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

MeeT THe dubai CiTy eXperT Ricardo Figueiredo Tour guide, Arabian Adventures My favourite tours are the 'New' Dubai City Tour and Traditional Dubai City Tour, both of which really capture the evolution of the emirate, between the old and the new areas of the city.

Top Of The Tours

priVaTe dune dinner Safari Enjoy an unforgettable evening in the desert Surprise your sweetheart, celebrate a special occasion, or just enjoy being surrounded by silence and stars during this VIP experience. A private 4x4 will whisk you away into the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve to our authentic Bedouin camp.

HiGHliGHTS:

• An exciting dune drive in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Falcon viewing • Camel ride into the camp area • Three-course Arabic dinner in a private Bedouin-style tent • Star-gazing away from the city lights dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily (late

afternoon until evening) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up

and drop-off; safari guide; three-course barbecue dinner with soft drinks and selected beverages GOOd TO knOW: Modest dress and comfortable walking shoes are recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting conservation deparTinG frOM: Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Fujairah and Ras Al Khaimah priCinG: Dhs895, all-inclusive To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

deSerT dune buGGieS An exhilarating off-road adventure tour Departing from Dubai, you’ll head into the desert where the off-road dune buggies will be waiting. Then it’s a roller-coaster of a ride over the dunes in the fully automatic fourseater vehicles that were built for fun.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Fully guided tour along the dunes • Driving and safety instruction provided • All dune buggies are four-wheeldrive, fully automatic with seat belts, roll cages and off-road suspension • Driver- and passenger-experience options are available • Shared or private buggy options • Fantastic desert photo opportunities dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily (half day, morning/afternoon) WHaT’S inCluded: Soft drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOd TO knOW: Sports shoes are recommended; operates year-round; drivers must be aged 18 or over and carry a valid UAE or international driver’s licence; passengers must be aged six or over priCinG: 30 minutes’ driving time (sharing), Dhs695 per person. Passenger (sharing), Dhs300 per person. Private buggy (for up to four people), Dhs1,500

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

eaST COaST TOur See wonderful Fujairah, one of the seven emirates Take a day to explore the picturesque East Coast of the United Arab Emirates.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Shop at the Friday Market, open daily, for local crafts, pottery and carpets • Lunch stop (lunch not included) and an opportunity to swim in the beautiful ocean • Photo stop at Bidiyah Mosque, the oldest and smallest mosque in the United Arab Emirates • Photo stop at Fujairah Fort • Drive through canyon landscapes dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and German:

Mon, Wed, Fri (full day); Russian: Fri (full day) GOOd TO knOW: Operates year-round; hotel transfers included; guided tour; modest dress is recommended. lanGuaGeS: English and German; Russian deparTinG frOM: Dubai. Departing from Fujairah and Ras Al Khaimah: Sun and Tue (half day, excludes lunch) priCinG: Dhs255 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

MeeT THe dubai CiTy eXperT Ashot Alex Hevorhian Tour guide, Arabian Adventures My favourite tour is the East Coast Tour, as it covers four of the emirates, as well as an Omani enclave, passing by sand dunes, the mountains, an oasis and the ocean.

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DXB City Expert

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DXB City Expert

CiTy Of liGHTS niGHT TOur See the city alive with light Watch Dubai transform into a sparkling city of lights while discovering its cultural heart. The 'Sunset Red' route lets you explore the famed Dubai Creek, along the Bastakyia, Shindagha and Deira districts where the traditional souks are located. Meanwhile, the 'Midnight Blue' route showcases the striking skyline, including the glittering Burj Khalifa, Dubai Marina and Atlantis The Palm, Dubai.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Two sightseeing routes showcasing Dubai by night • See all the big sights including Burj Khalifa and Atlantis, The Palm • Audio commentary in 13 languages dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily, 7pm-11pm WHaT’S inCluded: Hop-on, hop-off access to all

City Sightseeing buses on two routes for three hours GOOd TO knOW: Tour is free when purchasing a 24hr, 48hr or 7-day City Sightseeing Dubai ticket; both routes are included in the ticket price and there is enough time to do both. lanGuaGeS: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian priCinG: Adult, Dhs145; child, Dhs75; family Dhs365. (Child: aged five-15; family: two adults + two children).

To book, visit citysightseeing-dubai.com, or call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224)

Top Of The Tours

CiTy SiGHTSeeinG TOur The ultimate city bus tour Discover Dubai at your own pace with City Sightseeing Dubai. Tours on this ‘hop-on, hop off’ bus service are available from 9am-11pm, 365 days a year, and the concept could not be simpler: one ticket valid for a minimum of 24 hours, more than 40 bus stops spread over four routes citywide, and you decide when to ride, where to get off and what to visit. Your ticket also includes lots of additional value: entry to museums, Arabian dhow and Palm Jumeirah cruises, water and other discounts at various merchants. From the open top of a doubledecker bus there are no better views of this vibrant city, and they’re complimented by commentary available in 13 languages.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Four sightseeing routes • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary tickets to other attractions (see below) dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily, 9am-6:30pm WHaT’S inCluded: The 24hr ticket includes:

Dhow cruise at Dubai Creek; entry to Dubai Museum; City of Light tour; free cup of coffee at Costa Coffee when one is purchased. The 48hr ticket and 7-day pass also includes entry to Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo, a Palm Jumeirah cruise and a ride on City Sightseeing Sharjah and Ajman (check with drivers for the shuttle timing).

GOOd TO knOW: Before your 24hr ticket has expired, you can upgrade to a 48hr ticket or 7-day pass. lanGuaGeS: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian. priCinG: 24hr ticket: Adult, Dhs240; child: Dhs100; family: Dhs580. 48hr ticket: Adult: Dhs295; child: Dhs130; family: Dhs720. 7-day pass: Adult: Dhs340; child: Dhs170; family, Dhs850 (Child: aged five-15; family: two adults + two children).

To book, visit citysightseeing-dubai.com, or call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224)

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

‘neW’ dubai CiTy TOur See all of Dubai's iconic landmarks With its man-made islands, audacious architecture and futuristic skyline, Dubai has more than its fair share of iconic landmarks, and you can tick them off your list during this tour. Ride the monorail to Atlantis, The Palm, explore the buzzing Dubai Marina area, window-shop at The Dubai Mall and admire the view from the world’s tallest tower.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Visit to The Lost Chambers Aquarium at Atlantis, The Palm • One-way ride on The Palm Jumeirah monorail • Drive through Dubai Marina and the Jumeirah Beach Residence area • Afternoon visit to The Dubai Mall • Visit to Burj Khalifa (with option to include the observation-deck ticket) • Free pick-up; tour ends at The Dubai Mall dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and German: daily except Fri (morning, half day); Italian and French: Mon, Thu (morning, half day); Portuguese and Spanish: Mon, Thu (full-day tour of old and new Dubai); Russian: Mon, Thu (morning, half day) GOOd TO knOW: Modest dress and comfortable walking shoes are recommended priCinG: Adult, from Dhs350; child, Dhs300 (including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket); adult, Dhs225; child, Dhs175 (excluding At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket)

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

abu dHabi CiTy TOur See the UAE’s vibrant capital and landmark buildings Explore the sights and landmarks of Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Refreshment stop on Yas Island, close to the Yas Marina F1 circuit • Visit the traditional fruit, vegetable and date markets to see traders at work • Stop at Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi and opt to have lunch at one of the cafés.

Lunch is not included in the tour price due to the variety of options available • Drive along the Abu Dhabi Corniche • Pass the Emirates Palace Hotel, Al Bateen area and the palaces • Tour Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and

German: Mon, Tue, Wed, Sat (full day); French and Italian: Sat (full day); Russian: Fri (full day) GOOd TO knOW: Very modest dress code is required for the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque visit; operates yearround; hotel transfers are included; if departing from Abu Dhabi, this is a half-day tour, excluding the Yas Island visit and lunch, on Mon, Wed and Sat lanGuaGeS: English and German; French, Italian and Russian deparTinG frOM: Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi priCinG : From Dhs255 per person To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

SundOWner dune dinner Safari A magical experience The mysterious desert is the ideal venue for a magical and memorable evening. Watch the sun go down as you drive onto a traditional Bedouin-style camp, where a delicious dinner awaits.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Dune driving through the desert • Stop for a falcon viewing (part of the all-inclusive package) • Sunset photo stop in the dunes • The all-inclusive package includes unlimited grape and hops beverages.

Alternatively, choose the soft-drinks only package • Camel rides, henna hand painting and aromatic shisha available • Belly-dancing performance • Star-gazing dayS Of OperaTiOn: Daily (late afternoon until evening) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up and drop-off; safari guide; threecourse barbecue dinner with soft drinks and select beverages; all items mentioned in the tour GOOd TO knOW: Optional souvenirs and photos are available for purchase; option to upgrade to a private 4x4 vehicle; permanent toilets are available at the campsite; entertainment may vary during Ramadan and religious holidays lanGuaGeS: English deparTinG frOM: All emirates priCinG: Dhs375, all-inclusive

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

MeeT THe dubai CiTy eXperT Faisal Khan Safari guide, Arabian Adventuress This must-do safari is suitable for everyone. At the campsite there are lots of activities to try, such as sandboarding, camel rides and even a spot of star-gazing. Guests always say how the memories will last a lifetime.

Top Of The Tours

abu dHabi CiTy TOur WiTH ferrari WOrld Explore the city sights and experience fast-paced thrills Abu Dhabi is a fascinating mix of tradition and progression. Marvel at its landmarks, and enjoy an afternoon at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, home to the world’s fastest roller coaster.

HiGHliGHTS:

• Tour the majestic Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque • Stroll along the Abu Dhabi Corniche • Take in the sights of Abu Dhabi and drive past the Emirates Palace Hotel • Spend an exciting afternoon at leisure at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi dayS Of OperaTiOn: English and

German: Sun, Thurs (full day); Portuguese and Spanish: Sun, Tues (full day); French and Italian: Tues (full day); Russian: Sun, Thurs (full day) WHaT’S inCluded: Hotel pick-up and drop-off; tour guide; entrance to Ferrari World Abu Dhabi GOOd TO knOW: Very modest dress is required for Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque lanGuaGeS: English and German; Portuguese and Spanish; Italian and French; and Russian deparTinG frOM: Dubai, Sharjah and Ajman priCinG: Adult, Dhs495; child, Dhs375 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Chapter THREE

Eat

Dubai’s cultural diversity is reflected in its culinary mosaic of fantastic restaurants – from the best Indian food this side of the subcontinent to sleek Japanese eateries and authentic Arabic mezze. It’s little wonder that world-renowned chefs are falling over themselves to open venues in the city. There is something for every taste in Dubai, so tuck in

wHaT’s nEw in Town?

Fans of the Michelin-starred Chris and Jeff Galvin will be pleased to learn that the dynamic duo has opened a brand new venue at The Square, City Walk. Galvin Dubai (+971 4 590 5444, galvindubai.com) restaurant and lounge marks the brothers’ first venture outside the UK, alongside Demoiselle

by Galvin, a cafe situated just next door. Described as the “best of British, with a Mediterranean Basin flair”, dishes are inspired by Italian, Southern French and North African flavours. It’s already a popular spot among Dubai’s social set, thanks to the stylish space that’s designed to inspire conversation – this is laid-back glamour at its best.

Also new to The Square is Toro + Ko (+971 4 590 5433, torodubai.com) a Barcelona-inspired tapas restaurant and bar by award-winning chefs Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette.

Dive into the fun selection of tapas, charcuterie boards and paella, such as the Arroz De La Huerta Xon Azafran (wild mushroom paella with seasonal vegetables). The open plan kitchen gives diners a front row seat to all the culinary drama of the kitchen and, with a DJ pumping out an old-school 90s soundtrack, the atmosphere is buzzing.

For a highbrow evening out, Sean Connolly at Dubai Opera (+971 4 362 7312, dubaiopera.com) is sure to appeal. The signature restaurant is the regional debut of famous chef Sean

Connolly and boasts a prime location at the top of the venue, with a rooftop lounge offering uninterrupted views of Burj Khalifa. The produce-driven menu is uncomplicated, presenting delicious steak and seafood. It’s open for lunch and dinner but the pre-theatre menu is ideal for opera-goers.

Staying with the cultural theme, those who want to combine a trip to Etihad Museum with a memorable meal can head to Seven Sands Restaurant and Café (sevensandrestaurant.com), which is new to the venue. There, diners can embark on a culinary journey through the seven emirates.

There’s a ‘Grab and Go’ option at the Basement Café, but you can dine-in at the Bistro on the first floor. The Aishu

Sean Connolly at Dubai Opera

abouT THis CHapTER Where possible we’ve included a website, should you wish to look at menus and prices before heading out.

And, of course, a phone number if you want to book ahead. While only including those places we know and recommend, we’ve also included a range of options price-wise, from restaurants that will cause your bank manager’s heart to skip a beat to the too cheap to be true – and all that falls in-between.

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Where To Eat

Laham – rice and lamb flavoured with ginger, garlic, dried lime and saffron, served with a mint yoghurt sauce – sounds absolutely delicious. Open daily from 10am to 8pm.

Health conscious holidaymakers can keep their diet plans on track at Sesame Restaurant (+971 4 339 1300, sesamedubai.com) - a cosy eatery devoted to clean, wholesome foods that nourish the body. Each dish is created from scratch – expect intense flavours, homemade spices and sauces with different textures with lots of vegetables and superfoods for good measure. Sesame is located at Sunset Mall, Jumeirah Beach Road.

DXB City Expert

Rhodes W1

CElEbRiTy CHEfs’ REsTauRanTs Famous chefs have long been coming to Dubai, although the vast majority are here in name only, popping over every once in a while for a night or two in the kitchen. Celebrating its 10th anniversary this month, Rhodes W1 (+971 4317 6000, rw1-dubai.com), at Grosvenor House Dubai, is something of an exception with its founder Gary Rhodes dropping in more frequently.

Take the chance to taste the distinctive white tomato soup and, as Rhodes himself recommends, the salmon starter with candied lemon and spring onion risotto. The recently updated menu provides many more options besides.

One chef who always causes a stir in whichever city he appears in is Jason Atherton, whose Marina Social (+971 4 446 6777, ihg.com) is at the InterContinental Dubai Marina.

Atherton’s Social concept has won an army of fans in London, and while the Dubai offshoot hasn’t yet hit the same dizzy heights, it’s still a great destination for dishes big on detail and flavour. Be sure to snag a table on the Marina-facing terrace.

Celebrated Singaporean chef Reif Othman brings a fresh, ultra-luxurious approach to the chef's table with The Experience by Reif Othman (+971 4 501 8888). Located above his award-winning Play restaurant at the The H Dubai and limited to just 12 diners, guests are presented with a

handwritten, bespoke menu cooked and served by the chef himself. The real fun begins as he comes up with innovative dishes on the spot, feeding you all manner of gastronomic delights.

For a luxe, modern dining experience from the subcontinent, head to Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com) at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai.

The menu sings with a cacophony of flavour and creativity, and we heartily recommend you indulge in the very well-priced grazing menu.

bElly-busTing bRunCHEs In the bigger-is-better city of Dubai, the word ‘brunch’ takes on a very different meaning. Here, brunch is not a laid-back mid-morning weekend meal to be enjoyed with a friend in

a nice café; it is an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink lunchtime feast that involves cuisines from every corner of the globe. A Dubai brunch isn’t just a meal, it’s an experience – and something everyone needs to try at least once during their holiday here. Typically staged on Fridays but increasingly available on Thursday evenings and Saturdays too, here are our current choice picks…

Style mavens should head to the Best Dressed Brunch at Dukes Dubai (dukesdubai.com). Taking place every Friday in GBR restaurant, diners can get suited and booted for a chance to win an overnight stay in the five-star hotel. Even if you aren't crowned the winner, you'll enjoy tucking into the divine bakery section, healthy salad bar, tempting rotisserie and, for those with a sweet tooth, there's a

Where To Eat

candyfloss station, chocolate fountain and bountiful supply of cakes and puddings. From 1-4pm, from Dhs295.

Brunch like royalty at the Versailles Evolution Brunch at BQ – French Kitchen & Bar at The St. Regis Dubai (+971 04 435 5577, bqdubai.com).

Decadence is the order of the day as chefs roam the room with 72-hourslow-cooked prime beef and set about carving it at your table. There's also a Foie Gras trolley, fresh seafood, live oyster bar and a mouth watering dessert section. From Dhs350, from 12.30-3.30pm every Friday.

For a fun party brunch that also delivers on food, try the Wanderlust brunch in Garden restaurant at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com). Serving up 360 different dishes from 10 different restaurants, the brunch is so big that you are presented with a map to navigate your way around the food stations spread throughout the restaurant and adjacent terrace. They’re handily grouped by theme, so don’t leave without sidling up to the Peruvian barbecue station for zingy ceviches and tasty tiraditos. Held every Friday from 1-4pm, it is priced at Dhs395, including house beverages.

Another feast for the eyes as much as the stomach can be experienced at Friday Fork & Cork at Crescendo, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort (+971 567 8888, dubai-palm.anantara. com). The culinary journey ventures around the world, while the dessert buffet is a highlight. Whatever your taste buds crave, they’ll be tickled, and it’s a great option for families. Fridays from 1pm to 4pm. Prices range from Dhs345 with soft drinks to Dhs699 with unlimited bubbly.

Fabulous French For decades Le Cirque was New York’s go-to spot for A-list celebrities and real estate tycoons (including a certain Mr Trump). Now at The Ritz-Carlton DIFC, Le Cirque Dubai (+971 4 372 2444, ritzcarlton) is proving equally

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DXB City Expert

Seafood platter, the Versailles Evolution Brunch at BQ – French Kitchen & Bar

popular. The menu, which comes with a hint of Italian inspiraton, contains just the right number of dishes to suggest that each has been honed to perfection – the subsequent taste test confirms it. A superb lobster risotto easily ranks among Dubai's 'must-try' dishes, while soft-as-butter dover sole and a chocolate soufflé so light it could float from your table are notable highlights. The staff are on the right side of fully attentive.

Regardless of the quality of the food they serve up, it’s often difficult for Dubai’s many hotel-run restaurants to shake off that hotel-restaurant vibe they exude. So it’s to places like Bistrot Bagatelle at Fairmont Dubai (+971 4 354 5035, bagatelledubai.com) we locals go for a hefty side of atmosphere to enjoy with our fabulous food at weekends. Let your waiter guide you to the menu highlights here, which include sharing dishes like to-die-for black truffle pizza and spicy lobster linguini.

Over at Dubai Marina, the more casual Bistro Des Arts (+971 4 551 576, bistrodesarts.ae) serves up

fantastic examples of brasserie staples like steak frites and rabbit ragout.

caribbean Queens Different to almost anywhere else in Dubai, Miss Lily’s (+971 4 354 4074, misslilys.com) brings a true taste of the Caribbean to these shores in the form of authentic Jamaican dishes.

Hailing from New York, this is the first international Miss Lily’s outpost, and it’s something of a gem. Vibrant, fun and characterful, the self-styled ‘beach shack-meets-Jamaican diner’ boasts a number of must-try dishes including jerk corn grilled with toasted coconut, hot pepper prawns and a brilliant king crab with scotchbonnet sauce. Head here for sure.

Ting Irie (+971 4 557 5601 tingirie. com) at Downtown Boulevard offers up Jamaican staples courtesy of executive chef Craig Wong (of Jamaican-Chinese heritage), who has a CV boasting stints at multi-Michelin-starred restaurants Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck.

Theme Nights SUNDAY - Street Food Experience culinary diversity of the Street Food markets from around the world and enjoy authentic dishes found at the stalls of China, Singapore, Europe, South America and more.

7pm to 11pm

AED 195

MONDAY - Spice Route Retrace the journey of the ancient Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta as you embark on a culinary journey across the Arab World, India, Africa, South and Central Asia.

7pm to 11pm

AED 215

TUESDAY - Fisherman's Catch Get hooked on the Fisherman’s Night where the best bits of the sea are prepared as per your liking at six different live cooking stations.

7pm to 11pm

AED 215

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |

JWDubaiMarquis |

Kitchen6DXB

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert Al Hadheerah desert restaurant at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa

WIDeR (AND WoNDeRful) ARAbIC While Emirati food may be thin on the ground, wider Arabic certainly isn’t. Famed Lebanese import Em Sherif (+971 4 424 3000, emsherif. com), which you’ll find at ground level of The Address Downtown Dubai, offers superb views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain to add to a fixed-price dinner menu (Dhs320), which sees hot and cold mezzes, mains of tender, charcoalgrilled meats, and desserts arrive at your table in a near-endless flow.

Ayamna (+971 4 426 1166, atlantis thepalm.com) is another top choice for Lebanese food in a classy setting.

Interiors are opulent and airy, with a grand staircase, beautiful black and white tiles and an open kitchen, while the menu includes both traditional and more contemporary dishes such as shrimp kunafa – delicious za’atarmarinated prawns wrapped in kunafa dough – and a rich date pudding with salted-caramel sauce.

Also a hit with Dubai’s sizeable Lebanese community is Al Falamanki (alfalamanki.com), an outpost of one

of Beirut’s most famous restaurants.

Like the original, this sprawling Jumeirah Beach Road branch features indoor and outdoor areas, homely décor and a soft soundtrack of oldschool Arab music. On the menu is hot and cold mezze, salads, grills and manakeesh, along with a selection of shisha. The done thing here is to order a load of dishes to share and settle in for a game of backgammon.

For an al fresco experience, head to Al Hadheerah desert restaurant at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa (+971 4 809 6194, babalshams.com), where chef Mouhamed Ferjani and his team invite you on a culinary journey across Arabia and beyond. There's an extensive buffet and no less than 10 live cooking stations, with live music, Dabka dancers and a camel show among the entertainment.

Meanwhile, Zahira (+971 4 501 8606, zahira.ae) at The H Dubai, by acclaimed Australian-Lebanese chef Greg Malouf, has a sharing-style menu that offers a stylish take on traditional Middle Eastern cuisine, with dishes such as salmon kibbeh and knife-andfork ice cream for afters.

Ask A Top Chef Artyom Hakobyan Cucina at Courtyard by Marriott Dubai Green Community One of my favourite restaurants is Mayrig in The Dubai Mall. It serves a mixture of Armenian and Lebanese food, which is an interesting concept for me, as Armenia is my home country. You're sure to find something you love on the menu.

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Where To Eat

a TruE TaSTE oF ThE EMiraTES Considering all the many colourful cuisines Dubai has to offer, it might come as a surprise that good Emirati food is not so easy to come by. Slowly but surely, however, more and more authentic Emirati restaurants are cropping up.

An enduring favourite is Al Fanar (+971 4 232 9966, alfanarrestaurant.com), located along Canal Walk in Dubai Festival City Mall. You can dine outside on floor cushions in the traditional Majlis or at a table in the central courtyard area, which looks like a traditional Emirati home. The food is fresh and hearty with dishes such as chicken machboos, grilled shaari fish and jesheed (baby shark with onions and punchy spices).

Another place that pulls in its fair share of local Emiratis (always a good sign) is Al Barza (+971 4 343 5310) on Jumeirah Beach Road.

The setting is a modern take on the traditional architecture of the region, but the food is undeniably authentic – here you can try camel meat, which is at its best in a burger.

Camel’s also on the menu at Aseelah (+971 4 205 7333, radissonblu.com/hoteldubaideiracreek) in the Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek. In addition to traditional staples (like Burger & Lobster

samak, a local fish in gravy served with date rice) are dishes made using local ingredients (including camel stew and Arabian lobster).

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers interactive ‘cultural meals’ – so named because guests are encouraged to ask questions on anything that relates to the Emirati culture – prepared by local chefs in order to preserve the traditions and customs of the Bedouin culture.

The centre offers a popular cultural breakfast on Mondays and Wednesdays, lunch on Sundays and Tuesdays, brunch every Saturday and dinner every Tuesday. Advance booking is essential for every meal.

For SoME FaMily Fun As mentioned elsewhere, The Beach at JBR is a great place to head for a relaxed family dinner. But there are plenty of other places worthy of your attention too, particularly if your kids are that little bit older.

Famed NYC restaurant, Black Tap (+971 4 422 9904, jumeirah), is a recent opening at Jumeirah Al Naseem. Helmed by Michelin-starred chef Joe Isidori, the New York original has a cult following with customers known to queue for hours to try one of their monster milkshakes. The Dubai outpost features industrial-

DXB City Expert

chic interiors and an outdoor terrace overlooking the waters of the hotel’s Turtle Lagoon. The hip vibe extends to the menu, which features arteryunfriendly American classics, such as 14 different kinds of burger, spicy Korean BBQ chicken wings, tacos and, best of all, milkshakes piled high with toppings like chocolate brownies and cotton candy.

If you tend to take an age deciding what to order, then Burger & Lobster (+971 4 514 8838, burgerandlobster. com) at Burj Daman Building in DIFC is for you. Here, you essentially have three choices: burger, lobster roll, or whole lobster (steamed or grilled).

Despite the brevity of options, it’s actually difficult to choose as all three are top-notch, but the burgers and lobster rolls are offered in a variety of ways. The 7 Samurai – wonderfully succulent chunks of lobster tossed in Asian spices and a secret-recipe mayo – is an incredibly good lobster roll, while The Beast burger is topped with lobster tail and brie. Meanwhile, the whole lobster easily betters those served at many a fine-dining venue, particularly if you have it steamed instead of grilled. It's also a whole lot of fun with your claw-cracker.

They’ve been known to queue out of the door to snag a table at Slider Station (600 544 005, sliderstation. com) in The Galleria Mall, which proudly claims to be the world’s

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

Bridgewater Tavern

first conveyor-belt burger joint. It’s much more than that, offering a fun American tapas menu (the likes of sticky red-onion rings and Coca-Colabraised short ribs) to complement décor based on a 1940s American gas station. Grab a gourmet slider from its unique, if small, conveyor belt – we recommend the so-called Dangerous, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken, jalapeno and chimichurri aioli.

The kids will also love Walnut Grove (+971 4 344 4441) at City Walk, where in addition to choosing from a fine and varied menu, they’ll be given dough to roll their own cookies, which the restaurant kitchen will then cook for them. Mums and dads will find equal favour with the pizzas, burgers and salads.

dinE aT ThE pyraMidS Does Dubai have its own pyramids?

Of course it does. Housed in a striking pyramid-shaped building and styled with an opulent Egyptian theme –

sphinx statues, pharaoh sculptures and columns with hieroglyphics – you can’t miss the brilliant Pyramids at Wafi (+971 4 324 4100, pyramidsrestaurantsatwafi.com). It’s home to eight restaurants, serving a mix of fine-dining and casual cuisine ranging from Italian to Thai, Spanish and Indian. Still going strong after 15 years, Asha’s (+971 4 324 4100) offers traditional North West Indian cuisines with go-to dishes such as spicy dhaniya murg (chicken cooked in a yoghurt and cashew nut sauce), tandoori lobster and lamb rogan josh.

If you’d prefer to take your taste buds on a Mediterranean excursion, Seville’s (+971 4 324 4777) has a wide range of hot and cold tapas, paellas and regional specialties such as glazed lamb shank with Catalan mash and pulpo a la brasa (fire-roasted octopus) by Spanish chef Mariano Andres.

The decadent gnocci at Marco's Authentic Italian Kitchen (+971 4 324 4100) puts up a fine argument for being the best in the city, while

the ever wonderful Vintage (+971 4 324 4100) can now be classed as a Dubai institution, having served up a winning selection of red and white bottles, cheese and cold cuts for well over a decade. Come here on Sunday or Monday nights between 7-10pm and indulge in cheese fondue with unlimited sommelier's choice of red and white for a bargain Dhs175.

claSSic coMForT Food If you’re after a casual meal, Dubai’s bars offer a deluge of delicious light bites. Spread across two floors and overlooking Dubai Water Canal, Bridgewater Tavern (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com) at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is the go-to place for high quality, filling fare. The fire-cracker calamari and parmesan truffle fries are both willing bedfellows with an ice cold brew, while the signature black burger is an eyecatching order. Head to the outdoor terrace for ace city views.

Where To Eat

A cut above is Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar (+971 4 567 8304, dubai-palm. anantara.com), where prime slabs of succulent Aussie meat are the norm, including the likes of emu and kangaroo. To order either, however, you’ll be faced with the near-impossible task of forgoing the classic beef and mushroom pie.

The recently reworked menu at Souk Madinat Jumeirah’s Left Bank (+971 4 368 6171, emiratesleisureretail.com) is reason enough to head to this perennial favourite, but you’ll also love its

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DXB City Expert

water’s-edge setting and often lively atmosphere. From the light bites menu, try the organic Cumberlandveal Scotch eggs. As a quirk, certain cocktails come served in teapots.

Taking you from an early breakfast right through to the wee small hours, Fibber Magee’s (+971 4 332 2400, fibbersdubai.com) does proper pub grub with a menu chock-full of neverfail favourites: steak and mushroom pie, Irish stew and that all-important supersized burger. You’ll find the affectionately named ‘Fibbers’ in Saeed Tower One on Sheikh Zayed Road.

Left Bank

aSk a Top chEF Diego Solis Montes De Oca J&G Steakhouse at The St. Regis Dubai Two of my favourite restaurants are Toro Toro in Grosvenor House Dubai and Waka at The Oberoi, Dubai. Toro Toro serves a nice selection of Latin American inspired dishes and always has a nice ambiance with vibrant music and a fun crowd. Waka serves one of the best takes on smoked guacamole in the city.

hEad To piEr 7 It’s a pier; it has seven floors. That’s the reason for its name covered off. But what’s of real note here is that each floor is devoted to a different-style restaurant. It’s also the only licensed premises on Marina Walk in Dubai Marina. And so to the good stuff…

The Scene (+971 422 2328, thescenedubai.com) by TV chef and serial author Simon Rimmer is the frontrunner here. British-style comfort food is the gist of it – think succulent, deep-filled pies, feather-light battered fish and chunky chips – but if you want something less filling, the grilled halloumi, pear and salted-hazelnut salad is delicious, too.

No prizes for guessing the cuisine cooked up at the excellent Asia Asia (+971 4 276 5900, asia-asia.com), but there might be a prize if you can find a dish, anywhere, that tickles your taste buds as much as its tigerprawn Kerala masala.

And if you want a side order of animated atmosphere with your mains of slow-cooked prime-beef back ribs, head to Cargo (+971 4 361 8129, cargo-dubai.com).

Where To Eat

pErFEcT pizzaS For a quick and casual meal, you can’t look past a pizza. And Dubai has plenty of places serving up crisp crusts and superlative sourdough bases, with nary a pineapple in sight.

You’ll find two of our favourite spots for a superb slice within malls. First up is Eataly (800 328 259, eataly.ae), an authentic, bustling homage to all things Italian (edible, at least) on the lower ground floor of The Dubai Mall.

Its simple margherita is so good, the tomato sauce so rich and flavoursome, you may well forgo fancy toppings for evermore.

Over at The Galleria Mall, there’s Taste of Italy by Heinz Beck (+971 4 343 8292, tasteofitalybyheinzbeck. com) – he of the three-Michelinstarred La Pergola in Rome – which serves up the most incredibly light bases, best topped with rocket and fullflavoured mushrooms.

dinE aT ThE BEach The Beach at JBR – a brilliant pedestrianised area mere metres from the sand and sea – is the perfect place to head for a good-value feed with your family in tow. Your best bet is to simply stroll the length of it, stopping to peruse the menus at places that catch your eye – there are myriad cuisines to choose from. But were you to twist our arm, we’d heartily recommend the following.

Helmed by Tom Aikens, who remains the youngest UK chef to have scooped two Michelin stars, the concept at Pots, Pans & Boards (+971 4 456 1959, thebeach.ae) is sharing dishes – make sure you get the lion’s share of the lobster mac and cheese – which you’ll enjoy in a relaxed, informal (even the chairs are mismatched) vibe.

Almaz by Momo (+971 4 551 6247, momoresto.com) is one place that will definitely catch your eye. Here

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Where To Eat

you can look out to the sparkling sea while enjoying your pick from a menu of North African and Levant-inspired dishes. Think piping-hot tagines, slowcooked meats and grilled fish.

Breathing in the sea air may well put you in the mood for the ocean’s finest catches. If so, crack open a crab at Aprons & Hammers (+971 4 456 7888, apronsandhammers.com). Crab and shrimp are served by the bucketful here – along with a dollop of family fun – as diners have to work for their meal by crushing crustaceans with hinged crackers and (you guessed it) hammers. There’s a second restaurant aboard an atmospheric Arabic dhow in Dubai Marina, too.

A skip and a hop away, on Palm Jumeirah, The Beach House at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort (+971 4 567 8888, dubai-palm.anantara.com) provides a premier view of the glittering Dubai shoreline with a tasty selection of Mediterranean cuisine, including pizzas, tapas and seafood, complemented by signature drinks and a chilled-out vibe.

iT'S all grEEk To ME

The Beach House, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

If you’re hankering for some Hellenic flavours, you’ll be pleased to learn that, while Dubai is not exactly overflowing with Greek restaurants, it does boast some truly excellent ones.

In-the-know locals will point you towards Elia (+971 4 359 8888, dubaimajestic.com), a cosy restaurant with a lovely glass terrace surrounded by greenery in the somewhat incongruous setting of the Majestic Hotel in bustling Bur Dubai. In the kitchen is Cretan head chef Poppy Kourkoutaki, while charming restaurant manager (and fellow Crete local) Margianna Mavridou heads up the front-of-house team. The menu is divided into Greek classics – the cheese saganaki and chicken souvlaki are standouts – and more contemporary

DXB City Expert

interpretations, such as slow-cooked veal cheeks with eggplant purée. Don’t leave without trying the freshly baked carob bread.

From the same team, Mythos Kouzina & Grill (+971 4 399 8166, mythoskouzina.com) feels like a little slice of Santorini hidden away in JLT’s Armada Bay Hotel. Kitted out like a traditional seaside taverna with whitewashed walls, rustic furniture and light-blue banquettes, the simple menu is a mix of traditional dishes such as keftedakia (meatballs) and grilled calamari, together with homestyle favourites like moussaka and gigandes (butter beans).

Top TapaS With an open kitchen, funky murals and baskets hanging from its high ceilings, Salero Tapas & Bodega (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates looks more hipster eatery than traditional tapas joint. However, the Spanish staff, led by head chef Oscar Leon, ensure the no-nonsense, garlic-smothered tapas is entirely authentic. There’s a great selection of hot and cold tapas such as Galician-style octopus, along with three types of paella and a separate, yummy kids’ menu.

BOCA (+971 4 323 1833, boca.ae) in DIFC, meanwhile, strays from Spain to include sharing plates from Italy and France on its menu, too. From Med staples such as sweet Padrón peppers and grilled sardines to 12-hour braised lamb and lobster ravioli, dishes are served as they’re ready, making for a relaxed, grazing-style meal. The menu also has a raw section with carpaccios, crudos and tartars, along with a 22-strong list of grape available by the glass. Choose a spot at the buzzing bar or outdoor terrace, or head down to the cellar for a food and grape pairing experience hosted by the sommelier.

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Jebel Ali Palm > Palm > 2014AliEmirates ©CopyrightJebel PLEASE NOTE This illustration of Dubai is not drawn to scale and bears no accurate perspective to anything. Illustrated by Russ North ©Copyright 2014 Emirates

PLEASE NOTE This illustration of Dubai is not drawn to scale and bears no accurate perspective to anything. Illustrated by Russ North

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Where To Eat

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Bombay Brasserie

nicE and Spicy Gastronauts can embark on a spiceladen journey through the cuisines of northern India at Khyber (+971 4 455 1111, dukesdubai.com), at Dukes Dubai. This is the first outpost of the Mumbai favourite, which has enticed the likes of Sir Paul McCartney and Richard Gere to dine there. The culinary offering is headed up by Chef Faizan Ali, who oversees a team of six North Indian chefs in the kitchen.

Together, they conjure up expertly flavoured signature dishes, such as Tandoori Raan. Bag a table on the terrace for 180-degree views of Burj Al Arab and the Dubai Marina skyline.

Tong Thai (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, showcases unique regional dishes alongside street-food favourites and authentic yet inventive classics.

Regularly voted the best Thai restaurant in the city, signature curries like gai phad ka-prao with chilli and hot basil pack plenty of depth and flavour, while classics like tom yum and pad see-eiw have been honed to perfection. The dining room itself is a glorious riot of red and orange hues, with glittering lanterns suspended from above and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Business Bay, albeit only from the fourth floor.

DXB City Expert

If there’s a sure thing in the restaurant industry it’s that an Indian restaurant operated by Taj Hotels is going to be good, if not very good. Falling very much into the latter category, Bombay Brasserie (+971 4 438 3100, tajhotels. com) sees chef de cuisine Ajay Negi conjure up flavours as vibrant as the restaurant’s interiors. The dum ki suneharl (slow-cooked lamb shank and saffron) and beautifully flavoured paneer are noteworthy highlights to be savoured. Bag the right table and you’ll also take in the sight and sounds of The Dubai Fountain.

Adored by local gastronomes, Tresind (+971 4 308 0440, tresind. com) at Nassima Royal Hotel offers one of the city’s most accomplished takes on Indian molecular gastronomy. Head chef Himanshu Saini ensures each and every dish not only tastes amazing, but looks and smells spectacular too, with dinner here more akin to a theatre performance than a meal. We can highly recommended the chef’s tasting menu, while the lunch set menu is amazing value at Dhs99 per head (available Sunday to Thursday).

Over at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa, Masala (+971 4 8096 194, meydanhotels.com/babalshams) restaurant’s chef Keshaw Jha has designed a new three-course set menu that can be enjoyed inside the cosy venue or outdoors on the terrace to the sounds of a live Indian band. Dhs265 per person (including a beverage). You must book in advance.

Big, BEauTiFul BurgErS Brilliant burgers aren’t confined to the menus of Dubai’s hotel-based restaurants. In fact, the city’s best burgers are served in standalone venues. This is certainly true of Burger Fuel (+971 4 445 8220, burgerfuel. com), which has various branches across the city – the best of which, due to it being beside the sea, is at The Walk, JBR. The concept is 100% New Zealand grass-fed beef, 150g of which is chargrilled to perfection and placed within a wholemeal bun.

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

Khyber

Where To Eat

Thereafter, you can pick multiple extras to stuff inside.

The emphasis at Burger Joint New York (+971 4 344 4459, burgerjointny.com), which you’ll find at City Walk, is on quality alone, with the options limited to just hamburgers and cheeseburgers. The meat is minced on the premises to ensure consistency of flavour.

Moylo’s (+971 4 388 3140, moylosburgers.com) is a homegrown, hole-in-the-wall joint on Jumeirah Beach Road, nearby Sunset Mall.

Quirky and colourful with an industrial edge, it features a wire counter covered in padlocks that have been customised by patrons (including one by Dubai’s Crown Prince, Sheikh Hamdan).

There are five burgers to choose from, including the Truffle Shuffle with 100% Wagyu beef and home-made truffle mayo. Scrumptious.

Although serving much more than burgers, The Meat Co. (+971 4 368 6040, themeatco.com) does a mean cheeseburger, and the setting of its Souk Madinat Jumeirah branch – beside the water with a full view of Burj Al Arab – takes some beating.

Salt

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duBai’S anSwEr To STrEET Food The 11 kilometre Boardwalk at Palm Jumeirah is lined with upwards of ten food trucks of various styles selling everything from fish and chips and organic coffee to tacos and gourmet burgers. It's also a great spot for a selfie, should the urge take you.

The hugely popular Salt (instagram. com/findsalt) has a silver Airstream parked permanently at Kite Beach alongside an air-conditioned, glasswalled terrace, and serves gourmet sliders packed with flavour. There’s also a mobile truck that pops up around the city – you can keep track via Instagram.

Along Jumeirah Beach Road, and at the opposite end of Dubai’s dining spectrum in terms of glitz, is Bu Qtair (+971 55 705 2130), which has drawn a devoted following for more than two decades. While it’s been upgraded from its original beach shack to a simple restaurant in the nearby fishing harbour, it continues to attract crowds who queue for the freshest prawns and catch of the day, served with curry sauce, rice and bread.

DXB City Expert

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

Peyote

grapE EXpEcTaTionS Alcohol is only served in restaurants based within licensed premises, which basically means hotels. A handful of exceptions include restaurants based at DIFC and some at City Walk. Where sold, you’ll likely find wine expensive.

And if you’re on the road, be sure to pull into a Last Exit (+971 4 317 3999, lastexit.ae) food truck park for a tasty pit stop. There are four locations – Jebel Ali E11, Al Qudra D63, Al Khawaneej D89 And Jebel Ali Mad X – each with its own theme. The latter (located near interchange 11 in the direction of Abu Dhabi ) invites you to step into a post-apocalyptic world, with some great food trucks serving gourmet street food around the clock.

So you can Say you’vE BEEn ThErE You’ll need to book ahead to dine at the world’s highest restaurant, which spans much of level 122 of Burj Khalifa, but you’ll be glad you’ve done so. You arrive at At.mosphere (+971 4 888 3828, atmosphereburjkhalifa. com) via the world’s fastest elevator, before settling down in the swankiest of settings to enjoy the finest cuts of meat and fish to grace a menu.

dining aT diFc You may want to check in with your bank manager before heading to Dubai International Financial Centre for dinner (especially with the whole family), but the reward for blowing your budget will be a truly memorable meal.

Within DIFC is Gate Village, where amid the high-end galleries and auction houses are some of Dubai’s – and the world’s – best restaurants.

Ranked at number 89 in Restaurant Magazine’s 2016 list of the world’s best restaurants was the ever-popular Zuma (+971 4 425 5560, zumarestaurant. com), where the outstanding Japanese food is best ordered to share. In fact, what always works well here is to ask your waiter to order for you. New-tothe-menu dishes that you’ll want to try, courtesy of new executive chef Pawel Kazanowski and a hint of influence from CEO and founder Rainer Becker, include a sublime thinly sliced chutoro tuna with chilli, coriander, and sesame.

Taking the number-99 slot on the same prestigious list was La Petite Maison (+971 4 439 0505, lpmlondon. co.uk/dubai). It uses produce from local UAE farms in a number of its fabulous creations, all of which have their roots in French-Mediterranean cooking.

Dishes like the burrata with basil and tomatoes and the salt-baked sea bass are legendary among Dubai gourmands.

Elsewhere, Peyote (+971 4 521 6300, peyoterestaurant.com) brings modern Mexican dishes to Dubai, courtesy of Executive Chef, Eduardo Garcia, the man behind Maximo Bistrot, voted one of Latin America's top 50 restaurants. Artful dishes, such as Tacos de Tempura De Gambas (tiger prawn tempura, chipotle mayonnaise & lime) are incredibly well flavoured, while the hand-crafted drinks are inspired.

SuBliME SuShi and SaShiMi Beyond the elsewhere-mentioned Zuma and Nobu, Dubai is home to a couple more standout Japanese restaurants. One of them, Armani/Hashi (+ 971 4 888 3888, armanihotels.com) is housed in the Armani Hotel Dubai,

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Play

within Burj Khalifa. You’d be hard pushed to find anywhere selling seafood as good as that served here.

Another fine place, TOMO (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae) at Raffles Dubai, is helmed by chef-owner Chitoshi Takahashi, who has devised a menu that’s vast and packed with fantastic authentic Japanese delicacies, best navigated with the help of your waiter.

The expansive terrace here bestows brilliant views of Burj Khalifa, too.

Ex-Zuma chef Reif Othman’s Play (+971 4 225 6000, h-hotel.com) at The H Dubai was an instant hit when it opened at the outset of 2016. Playfully described as ‘Mediterrasian’ – a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian flavours – the twists on classic dishes are a real delight. Order the duck gyoza and takumi Wagyu ribs – both of which are divine. The buzzing bar and DJ mean the atmosphere at dinner is as spirited as the menu, although the restaurant area can get uncomfortably smoky.

Famed London export Novikov (+971 4 3 888 8744, novikov-dubai. com) at the Sheraton Grand Hotel is another ultra-glamorous spot, with a sleek, dimly lit dining space, resident

DJs and a vast – and very impressive – Asian menu. Fronting the open kitchen is a market counter displaying fresh fish and seafood flown in every second day from Portugal and Japan, including interesting delicacies like goose barnacles and sea urchins. The skill of ex-Nobu head chef Shane Macneill is evident throughout – highlights include the king crab-leg and wasabi gratin, scallop and black-truffle sashimi, and the signature duck salad.

high TEa From traditional afternoon tea to more contemporary offerings, Dubai upholds this very British custom with more than a fair degree of flair.

Where better to indulge than at the very British Dukes Dubai (+971 4 455 1111, dukesdubai.com)? Its so-called Saturday afternoon 'partea' adds a splash of fun to proceedings, offering unique teas – like a black tea with macadamia nuts and chocolate pieces – alongside classic finger sandwiches and homemade scones. You can join the 'partea' from Dhs195 per person, rising to Dhs520 if you're in the mood to

Izakaya

Where To Eat

accompany your sarnies with unlimited glasses of French bubbly from 2-6pm.

You can happily stretch the ceremony out as long as you like in the beautiful surrounds of Taj Dubai’s Byzantium Lounge (+971 4 438 3100, tajhotels.com), which features dramatic gold peacock panels and rich fuchsia furnishings. Served daily from 3pm to 6pm, the fine-china cake stands come piled high with classic English sandwiches, scones and cakes, as well as Indian sweets and savoury snacks like samosas to complement your pot of tea. Dhs215 for two people.

The Asian-inspired Lotus Lounge at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort (+971 4 567 8302, dubai-palm. anantara.com) has a large terrace overlooking the Arabian Gulf with views all the way to Atlantis The Palm, Dubai. Indulge in dainty sandwiches such as egg mayonnaise with caviar, and savoury bites like burrata with tomato focaccia, served on multi-tiered silver

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trays, followed by irresistible sweet treats – think blueberry cheesecake and warm scones served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. You can indulge from Saturday to Thursday, 2pm-5pm, at Dhs145 per person or Dhs240 including unlimited bubbly. A must-do.

dinnEr wiTh an incrEdiBlE viEw Just off a jetty that juts out into the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf, on the westernmost tip of Palm Jumeirah, lies 101 Dining Lounge and Bar (+971 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com) at One&Only The Palm Dubai. From here you get to drink in picture-perfect views of Dubai Marina and Burj Al Arab while enjoying superb contemporary European fare from a menu that has been rubberstamped by French super-chef Yannick Alléno – including the softest squid we’ve ever tasted. The whole experience can be heightened by catching a boat to the restaurant from sister hotel

DXB City Expert

iF you Book juST onE placE whilE you’rE hErE, MakE iT...

Izakaya, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) Upbeat, casual and just a little bit edgy, Izakaya Japanese restaurant attracts sushi fans for its fun and social vibe. This entertaining dining experience will see the resident Wasabi Girl prepare fresh wasabi at your table – she's also more than willing to offer recommendations for the tastiest rolls. For groups and special occasions, the private Tatami room can be booked for up to six people.

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Folly by Nick & Scott

good-value independent restaurants as you saunter past the skyscrapers, with the likes of New York's famed-for-itsbreakfast Clinton St. Baking Company (+971 4 428 1331, clintonstreetbaking. ae) among the pick of the places.

If you’re on the hunt for a meal you’ll remember long after your flight home, it has to be La Serre Bistro (+971 4 428 6969, laserre.ae), located within Vida Downtown. With great service, even better food and an atmosphere rarely bettered anywhere else in the city, this is another place where you should let the waiter order for you – just hope they mention the tagliatelle with prawns and duck.

Succulent Steak

One&Only Royal Mirage. Booking is essential, as is a pre-boarding drink in the beautiful, beach-side Jetty Lounge.

Nothing tops the view of Burj Khalifa that’s served up – along with incredibly good food – at Katana (+971 4 277 8808, katana-dubai.com). Hailing from LA’s sunset strip, Katana specialises in the robatayaki style of authentic Japanese cuisine, whereby bambooskewered gourmet fish, meat and vegetables are grilled over a charcoalinduced open flame. It’s fabulous.

Overlooking the ocean with fine views of Burj Al Arab, Shimmers (+971 4 4323232, jumeirah.com) has long been a go-to spot for locals and expats looking to wow visitors. Recently relaunched with a menu of home-style Mediterranean favourites from Greek chef Yiannis Katsikas, dishes include tender chargrilled octopus, slowroasted beetroot salad and zucchini kefta. The causal, toes-in-the-sand atmosphere is perfectly suited to long, lazy lunches and dinners accompanied by a side order of gentle sea breeze.

Over on Palm Jumeirah is Club Vista Mare, a Dhs120 million beachfront dining and leisure complex where you can take

your pick from seven unique restaurants, all set directly on the beach with views of the city’s most famous landmarks. Top spots here include Aji (+971 4 552 0244, aji.ae), which serves up a superb fusion of Japanese and Peruvian food – great cocktails, too – and Ibn Albahr (+971 4 5539575, ibnalbahr. me), where you can enjoy fabulously fresh fish and succulent lobster.

With cracking views over Madinat Jumeriah, Folly by Nick & Scott (+971 4 430 8535, folly.ae), two longtime Dubai-based chefs with rich pedigree – including a combined eight years at Gordon Ramsay Holdings, offers up a thoughtful menu of modern European sharing dishes. The cooking is precise, the flavours impactful, and what they can do with a mere mushroom and plain old radish needs to be tasted to be believed.

dine downtown In addition to The Beach and City Walk, Downtown Dubai is one of the few areas in the city where you can walk along the street or, in this case, wide boulevards lined by trees and lit by tiny, twinkling lights at night. You’ll pass an array of

Most high-end hotels in Dubai are endowed with a high-end steakhouse offering premium beef staples like wagyu that are far from cheap. But budget aside, there are some brilliant steaks to be had in this city.

Heading up our list of top tables is Prime68 (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, which is a cut above (pun intended). The premium beef here is sourced from choice suppliers across the globe and tastes superb, matched by the views from the 68th floor. Accompaniments such as black-truffle butter add a little extra oomph, while add-ons like lobster tail and crab cake are an indulgent treat.

In the same bracket is J&G Steakhouse (+971 4 435 5577, stregisdubai.com) at The St. Regis Dubai. Managing to marry masculinity to elegance, the setting here is just about perfect for you to savour fabulously high-quality cuts of meat (as well as seafood and raw bar selections).

In fact, such is the restaurant’s quest for perfection that nothing is left to chance – so much so that exclusive cattle are raised only for St. Regis properties worldwide. It’s listed as Queensland AACO beef on the menu, and tastes superb.

Opened in 1995, JW’s Steakhouse (+971 4 607 7977, marriottdiningatjw.

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Where To Eat

ae) is a Dubai institution, and rightly so.

Chef Mohammad Iqbal has been in the kitchen from day one and knows each of his (many) regulars’ preferences by heart. It’s so popular that every table is adorned with brass plaques featuring the names of former diners.

With wood panelling, overstuffed armchairs, a long mahogany bar and Frank Sinatra tunes as your soundtrack, the styling of this classy steakhouse sets the tone. The menu features the finest cuts cooked to perfection, while seafood lovers can choose the likes of Maine lobsters straight from the tank.

The Hide at Jumeirah Al Qasr (+971 4 432 3232, jumeirah.com) bills itself as a New York-style 'meatery', so get set for classic American comfort food with a welcome, inventive twist. We're talking the likes of surf 'n' turf gnocci (prawns, beef fillet, lobster sauce) and OMG onion rings (confit duck, burrata cheese), while the dry aged cuts of choice beef are as good as they get.

FaSt, Filling noodleS (and a bit more beSideS) The Noodle House (thenoodlehouse. com) is a home-grown success story, and the go-to place for steaming-hot bowls of fragrantly spiced pad thai. The venue has recently had a refresh with an expansive new menu featuring firm favourites such as Singapore Noodles, Curry Laksa and Wasabi Prawns, as well as 50 completely new dishes that draw inspiration from Malaysia, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia and Singapore, such as Miso Salmon and Orange Glazed Short Ribs. The flagship restaurant is at Souk Madinat Jumeirah and there are five other locations across Dubai.

SumptuouS SeaFood Catch (+971 4 357 1755, catch. ae) remains one of the hottest tables in town, with an atmosphere to match. Hailing from NYC, the other good reason that this contemporary American seafood restaurant finds favour is, of course, its food. You can have your fish in a number of ways, but you don’t need to look beyond the

DXB City Expert BookMunch

The Noodle House

simple grilled version. If you only have time to eat out once or twice while you’re here, make Catch a must-dine.

Michelin-starred Brit Nathan Outlaw is the chef patron at Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara (+971 4 301 7600, jumeirah.com) the famed-forits-aquarium seafood restaurant at Burj Al Arab. The menu takes inspiration from Outlaw’s eateries in Cornwall and London, with signature dishes such as lobster risotto, crispy oysters and caviar, and the very British dessert sticky toffee pudding (Outlaw got the recipe from his daughter) all among the highlights.

For classic seaside favourites at a reasonable price, stop by The Maine Oyster Bar & Grill (+971 4 457 6719, themaine.ae) in the DoubleTree by Hilton, JBR. Part American brasserie and part European bistro, the unpretentious venue features a raw bar overflowing with fresh oysters, ceviche and seafood towers, along with grilled steak, chops and a variety of vegetarian dishes.

With touches of nautical glamour and a seafront-facing terrace, it’s also a top spot to head for relaxed sundowners.

Meanwhile, if you’re keen to dine with the feel of sand between your toes, book a table at Fish Beach Taverna (+971 4 511 7139, fish-dubai.com).

Specialising in seafood and with a rustic Mediterranean feel, the restaurant can be found on the water’s edge at Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, and has tables set directly on the sand. Simple, unfussy and amazingly atmospheric.

beSt oF britiSH On Palm Jumeirah, housed in the beautiful Dukes Dubai hotel, is the Great British Restaurant, otherwise known as GBR (+971 4 455 1101, dukesdubai.com). This is the place to come for expertly cooked (better than your mum makes) roast meats with all the trimmings, fish and chips boasting crispy batter and feather-light fish, and

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

Flamingo Room by tashas

8am-10pm daily). At the other end of town in Al Quoz, sister café Tom&Serg (+971 56 474 6812, tomandserg.com) is just as good and usually even busier.

Like its New York State namesake, The Hamptons Café (+971 4 331 5118, hamptonsdubai.com) is a stylish locale that draws in a regular crowd of locals, expats and in-the-know visitors.

Located in a residential-looking white villa on Jumeirah Beach Road, menus are presented on iPads, with dishes ranging from breakfast favourites like French toast and truffle-coddled eggs to lunch and dinner options such as pulled-duck crostini and buttermilkfried chicken.

HealtHY eating

comforting cottage pie, fashioned from slow cooked beef. Bookend your mains choice with a fabulous coronation chicken and a quintessentially English cherry bakewell tart.

At The Croft (+971 4 319 4794, thecroftdubai.com), top British chef Darren Velvick – a protégé of Gordon Ramsay – hoists the flag for modern British cooking by plating up succulent meats, heritage vegetables and crowdpleasing puddings, with an emphasis on local and organic ingredients. Mains might include organic poached salmon with fennel and saffron hollandaise, or leek and cheddar croquettes with mash potato and mustard sauce.

cool caFeS While Dubai may be home to more than its fair share of franchised restaurants, its café culture is very much homegrown - and all the better for it. Nestled in the manicured, seaside grounds of the Jumeirah Al Naseem hotel

is Flamingo Room by tashas (facebook. com/flamingoroombytashas). Billed as championing casual chic dining and a commitment to quality ingredients, the menu here goes big on flavour - lobster benedict with toasted brioche and a saffron & lemon hollandaise, white fish with sauce vierge and artichoke. It’s open from breakfast through to dinner.

At City Walk, Jumeirah’s alfresco shopping and dining district, The Brass (+971 4 385 6971, thebrass.ae) features gorgeous golden interiors and an extensive menu of speciality brews such as lavender-honey lattes and Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom, along with pastries, cakes, salads, sandwiches and flatbreads.

Leading the way when it comes to hipster cafés, The Sum of Us (+971 56 445 7526, thesumofusdubai.com) in the Burj Al Salam building behind the Sheraton Hotel has industrial-chic interiors, a sourdough bakery and its own coffee roastery. As you can imagine, it smells pretty good (open

Concept store Comptoir 102 (+971 4 385 45 55, comptoir102.com) packs in a great mix of fashion, interior design and furniture from around the globe, but it's the organic cafe here that's the star of this particular show. The menu makes use of the best ingredients from local organic farms to serve up tasty and nutritious dishes that are sugarand dairy-free, with raw, vegan and gluten-free options to the fore.

The co-founder of Comptoir 102 is also one of the names behind Wild & The Moon (wildandthemoon.com), where a vegan chef has developed a wholesome menu of plant-based recipes to which nothing (sugar, additives, chemicals and all) has been added. The golden turmeric latte – with homemade sprouted almond milk, vanilla, dates, black pepper and sea salt – is a real favourite. You'll find Wild & The Moon tucked away in the art district of Alserkal Avenue in Al Quoz.

turkiSH deligHtS In Souk Al Bahar, the outdoor terrace at Günaydin (+971 4 554 0700, gunaydindubai.com) is a top spot to enjoy views of the Burj Khalifa and, at night, The Dubai Fountain. The famous Turkish ‘meatery’ serves meat in all its forms: traditional döner; succulent kebabs; juicy meatballs; lovingly cooked steaks and interesting

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Where To Eat

burgers. Vegetarians need not worry: there are plenty of hot and cold mezze and old-school desserts such as kunefe and baklava.

Over at Grosvenor House Hotel, Dubai favourite Colin Clague can be found working his magic at high design Anatolian eatery Rüya (+971 4 399 9123, ruyadubai.com). Infused with caramelised and charcoal flavours, cağ kebabı (marinated lamb kebab) is the pick of the menu.

DXB City Expert

Book Munch

incredible-value indian and pakiStani Since Indians and Pakistanis account for the biggest expat community in Dubai, it comes as little surprise that the city is awash with an abundance of Indian and Pakistani cuisine – much of it very cheap and delicious. That’s particularly true of Saravanaa Bhavan (+971 4 334 5252) in Karama, whose vegetable curries pack in brilliant flavour and cost an average Dhs15.

Also in Karama is Calicut Paragon (+971 4 449 8560, paragonrestaurant. net) – a favourite among the city’s Indian chefs, which serves curried Keralan seafood specialities – while Rangoli Vegetarian Restaurant (+971 4 351 5873, rangolirestaurants. com) in Meena Bazaar, Bur Dubai, serves food from the Gujarati region of India (imagine platters upon platters of delicious thali, which just keep coming).

The Dubai institution that is Ravi Restaurant (+971 4 331 5353) in Satwa serves Pakistani-style curries, with highlights including chicken achar, keema fry and chicken methi.

All of these places are strictly no-frills, but when the curries are so good and such great value, who cares?

SomewHere Simple witH Young kidS Eating at your hotel can be expensive – especially if you have a whole family to feed – but fear not: Dubai has plenty of options for good-value, great-quality fare. Ideal for tiny tots is bookstoreslash-café BookMunch (+971 4 388 4006, bookmunchcafe.com) in Al Wasl Square. It serves up tasty treats like

blueberry pancakes and stocks plenty of children’s books, ensuring kids get food for thought as well as their bellies.

Bystro (+971 336 8056, bystrodubai.com) on Sheikh Zayed Road has a special kids’ corner that features miniature tables and chairs, as well as toys and books to keep younger diners entertained.

The food will please kids and adults alike; choose from sandwiches, great breakfast options, weekend roasts and – intriguingly – dinosaur ribs. Over at Italian restaurant Sapori Di Bice (+971 4 344 2550, saporidi-bice.com) on City Walk, kids get to create their

own pizzas, with multiple fun-shaped bases on offer.

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat with your baby, try Pantry Café (+971 4 388 3868, pantrycafe.me) on Al Wasl Road. You’ll enjoy wholesome, locally sourced food, while your baby gets free veggie purée.

With its prime seaside address, The Beach at JBR, and double-height dining space lined with bookshelves, Big Chefs (+971 4 551 5302, bigchefs.co) has a stylish yet homely feel. The huge menu lists dishes across a multitude of cuisines, you name it, it's probably here, along with a separate kids’ menu,

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Waka

so you’re bound to find something for even the fussiest of little eaters. Just be sure they leave room for dessert – the Oreo Nutella cheesecake is one they won’t want to share.

lovelY latin american There is currently fierce competition in Dubai for the tag of the city’s best Peruvian restaurant, and in the thick of it is Waka (+971 4 444 1455, waka. ae) at The Oberoi, Dubai. Here, Chef Roberto Segura dishes up authentic Latin American flavours combined with Japanese seasonings and using French techniques. Highlights of the menu are many, so the best way to sample more than your fair share of them is to head here on a Friday night for The Late Brunch. Priced from Dhs200 to Dhs500, from soft drinks through to unlimited bubbly, you'll enjoy multiple dishes – including some of the best ceviches in the city – in a what's a great, buzzing setting. It runs from 8-11pm.

While you’ll be right to love Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant. com) in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach (its Friday brunch, in particular, is fabulous),

we also have a thing for the more casual Garden (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. The chef is Peruvian, the staff are great and the vibe relaxed.

Lima Dubai (800 5462 5462, limadubai.com) located at the beautiful-at-night City Walk is the city’s latest Peruvian hotspot.

So what makes this one standout?

Well, it’s from Virgilio Martinez, the chef behind Central in Peru, the fourth best restaurant on the planet according to the coveted World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Headed by his Central protégé, Diego Sanchez, the top dishes here include an incredibly good octopus and corn brûlée.

dining at tHe mall Follow the locals’ lead and head to one of Dubai’s famous shopping malls for a bite to eat in air-conditioned comfort (in-between bouts of retail therapy, of course). Alongside the food courts, many of the malls have excellent casual eateries, too.

Of the huge number of dining options at The Dubai Mall, Eataly (800 328 259, eataly.ae), pokes its

head and shoulders above the rest.

We've already marked your card for its pizza (see 'Perfect Pizzas') but the quality of the ingredients used here – from sustainable seafood and high welfare meats through to in-season vegetables – makes every dish a hit, including those on the kids' menu.

For variety, Lafayette Gourmet (+971 4 345 5444, galerieslafayettedubai.com), a posh food hall on the second level of famed French department store Galeries Lafayette, has individual stations serving everything from Mediterranean salads to Moroccan tagines and caviar.

The third-floor extension of Mall of the Emirates houses some of its best casual restaurants. Leading the way is Taiwanese dumpling chain Din Tai Fung (+971 4 265 1288). The chicken xiao long bao (soup dumplings), redbean sticky-rice dessert and Chinese oolong tea – with free refills – are worth the inevitable wait.

Also great is Common Grounds (+971 50 478 1094, commongroundsdubai.com), which offers fabulous salads, the best prawn tacos this side of Mexico City, and a very healthy kids’ menu. You can treat them to a delicious milkshake.

Where To Shop

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DXB City Expert

To

SHOP Chapter FOUR

Step inside the stores, meander around the markets and seek out the unique shopping experiences that are found only in Dubai

Mega Malls Few places in the world do malls like Dubai. Ever since the first one (the Al Ghurair Centre) swung open its doors in 1980, there’s been a steady flow of malls opening up across the city.

Whether you’re in town for a day, a week or longer, there’s a mall for you.

With over 1,200 stores under its roof, The Dubai Mall (800 38 224 6255, thedubaimall.com) should be your first stop. Consisting of four levels – plus an aquarium, Olympic-sized ice rink and 22-screen cineplex – it was named the largest shopping centre in

the world by Guinness World Records when it opened in 2008, and is packed with designer and high-street names.

At some point during your time here it’s a given that you’ll lose your bearings, but there are numerous help desks (and even buggies to ferry you around if you’re flagging). Don’t leave without visiting Level Shoes (+971 4 501 6939, levelshoedistrict. com), which houses every designer shoe brand known to mankind; the region’s first Bloomingdale’s (+971 4 350 5333); and an outpost of France’s famous Galeries Lafayette (+971 4 339 9933, galerieslafayette-dubai.com).

Style mavens should head to Etoile ‘La boutique’ (+971 4 339 9933 x 2718, etoilelaboutique.com). Created by trendsetter Ingie Chalhoub, it's the place to go for cutting-edge fashion, luxury and fine art. There, you can shop for coveted pieces from top designers, from the season’s must-have bag to those hot-off-the-catwalk dresses.

(Etoile ‘La boutique’ has two other locations in Dubai – at Mall of the Emirates and Wafi Mall).

Mall of the Emirates (+971 4 409 9000, malloftheemirates.com) is another big draw. Following a 36,000sqm extension in 2015 (which

Where To Shop

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DXB City Expert

Mall of the Emirates

abOUt this ChapteR Dubai’s main malls have long opening hours: The Dubai Mall is open from 10am to midnight, while Mall of the Emirates is open from 10am to 10pm, Sunday to Wednesday, and 10am to midnight, Thursday to Saturday. The malls also ask that shoppers dress modestly – shoulders and knees should be covered.

These dress codes are in place to show respect for the country’s culture and religion, rather than law.

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Where To Shop

saw the addition of 20 new fashion brands, 12 restaurants and a 24-screen VOX Cinema), this mega-mall has more than 560 stores to roam.

Get acquainted with Fashion Dome, an area dedicated to designer garb: Boutique 1 (+971 4 395 1200, boutique1.com), a home-grown retail star stocking global and local labels; and Harvey Nichols – Dubai (+971 4 409 8888, harveynichols.com), which houses a winning mixture of international fashion heavyweights over three floors.

Close to Dubai International Airport, Dubai Festival City Mall (+971 4 800 332, festivalcentre.com) is a creekside retail destination that offers a potpourri of shops (mostly mid-range), with newcomers to its recent extension including the three-storey Robinsons (robinsons.me) department store, which houses 90 world-class beauty, fashion and homeware brands including John Lewis Home (the first ever retail collaboration with the iconic British retailer in the UAE). Rumour has it that another extension is on the cards for the future, so watch this space.

Hop in a taxi or take the metro to BurJuman (+971 4 352 0222, burjuman.com), one of the oldest shopping malls in Dubai. Offering a well-rounded fashion selection from Versace to Zara and everything in between, it also has the an awesome Magic Planet for fun for all the family.

Get back on the metro and continue for three stops along the Red Line and you’ll reach Deira City Centre Mall (+971 4 295 1010, citycentredeira. com), which is home to over 370 retail stores, including the popular Paris Gallery, which offers a tempting mixture of luxury buys, including the latest perfume, skincare, makeup, watches, jewellery, sunglasses, accessories and leathergoods.

Shoppers seeking a fuss-free retail spree should head to Dubai Marina Mall (+971 4 436 1020, dubaimarinamall.com), which has a stylish mixture of high-street brands on a more manageable scale – think Reiss and Monsoon – fronted by a delightful waterfront promenade.

Touted as the world’s largest themed shopping mall and based on the travels of Arabic explorer Ibn Battuta, the décor of Ibn Battuta Mall (+971 4 362 1900, ibnbattutamall.com) is great for photos. Boasting close to 400 stores, there's also a bowling alley, two food courts and outdoor dining courtyard with an international flavour.

Looking to acquire luxury labels for less? The Dubai Outlet Mall (+971 4 423 4666, dubaioutletmall.com), located 30 minutes outside the city, and The Outlet Village (+971 4 317 3999, theoutletvillage.ae) in Jebel Ali should be on your radar. Dubai Outlet Mall offers heavily discounted prices on previous seasons’ wares from top brands. The Outlet Village, on the other hand, is relatively new to the scene and boasts three department stores and more than 125 brands, such as Tom Ford, Jimmy Choo, Tory Burch and many more. Inspired by the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tuscan town of San Gimignano, the mall has terracottatiled piazzas and stylish cafés. There are free shuttle buses departing regularly from Jumeirah, Al Barsha and Dubai Marina. See the website for details.

DXB City Expert

Le BHV Marais

MiNi Malls They may not be as big as Dubai’s jumbo malls but the city’s smaller counterparts are chock-full of labels worthy of your holiday dirhams. Most are located along Jumeirah Beach Road and Al Wasl Road – two roads that run parallel. Simply drive up one, turn around at Drydocks Dubai, and cruise down the other.

Kick off your mini-mall trawl at one of Dubai’s more recent retail additions, aptly named The Mall (+971 4 348 4848, themall.co.ae). Located opposite Jumeirah Beach Hotel.

The building is flooded with natural light and houses 55 stores and dining outlets, including Boho Beachwear, Big Brands Factory Outlet and French fashion retailer Escales.

Continue along Jumeirah Beach Road to Sunset Mall (+971 4 330 7333, sunsetmall.ae), home to Rivaage (+9714 380 7177, rivaage.com), which

plays host to international designers such as Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania and House of Harlow. For gorgeous kaftans, stop by Amraoui Couture, which is a favourite among local ladies seeking bespoke designs.

Two other must-visit shopping havens around these parts include the Mediterranean-inspired Mercato Mall (+971 4 344 4161, mercatoshoppingmall.com) – home to the brilliant Bagatelle (+971 55 312 6822), which sells pre-owned designer clothing, shoes and jewellery – and Galleria Mall (+971 4 344 4434, galleria-mall.ae), where you’ll find hip stores like Beach Bunny (+971 4 343 4567), the first Middle East outpost

Where To Shop

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DXB City Expert

asK a lOCal Dina Zaki Fashion designer Dubai is considered the shopping hub of the Middle East and we are, indeed, spoilt for choice. The Dubai Mall is always the easiest option for shopping, as it's simple to navigate and most of the leading high-end and high-street brands are located there, including some of my favourites: Chanel, Zara and Level Shoes. I also love shopping at Mall of the Emirates. A part of it has recently been renovated, bringing in many new stores, such as Sephora, which I also love.

for this trendy Californian beachwear label, and Zayan the Label (+971 4 344 0104, zayanthelabel.com), which sells ready-to-wear clothing and accessories by designer Zayan Ghandour.

aN OpeN-aiR Retail aFFaiR Those seeking a seaside setting for their shopping should head to The Beach (+971 80 063 7227, thebeach. ae) in JBR, which has a bunch of cool stores selling holiday staples, as well as a year-round market selling locallymade crafts, gifts and apparel. It's all set alongside a picturesque esplanade with cafĂŠs, restaurants and the boutique Roxy Cinemas. Be sure to pop into Sauce On-Sea (971 4 430 4202,

play.shopatsauce.com) to browse its unique collection of super chic beachinspired wear from both international and regional designers.

Peppered along a 1.2km stretch of pavement on Al Wasl Road, BoxPark (+971 4 317 3999, boxpark. ae) is a pop-up mall made up of shipping containers. Visitors will find 220 industrial containers selling everything from streetwear to ice cream, along with restaurants, cafĂŠs, kids' entertainment and free Wi-Fi along the strip. Cool stores to look out for include Urbanist (+971 55 381 4552, urbaniststore.com), which has contemporary fashion from international brands and Middle Eastern designers, and Marimekko

(+971 4 343 8515, marimekko.com) for clothes, home decor and accessories from the cult Finnish design house renowned for its original prints.

Jump in a taxi for a five-minute drive to Al Wasl Square, where edgy retail stores, bakeries and beauty parlours are bunched together for a short, but sweet, shopping experience. Super-glam sister development City Walk (citywalk.ae), at the junction of Al Wasl and Al Safa Road, aims to bring the outside in, with an glass-roofed indoor shopping area and al fresco boulevard. The Europeanstyled streets are lined with designer boutiques such as Chantelle, Carven and Bambah. Be sure to stop by the two-storey outlet of the iconic Parisian department store Le BHV Marais.

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Where To Shop

Those with little ones in tow should squeeze in a visit to Level Kids, which has three floors filled with 200 childfriendly designer brands as well as its own spa, photo studio and Cloud 7 creativity and play zone, where your children can try their hand at candle making, among other activities.

CONCept stORes Outside of Dubai’s glitzy malls there’s a raft of independent concept stores and shopping experiences to enjoy – if you know where to find them. The best way to tick off the city’s unique boutiques is to introduce them into your day, rather than allocate a day to visit them. For example, if you find yourself in Alserkal Avenue admiring the many art galleries, you can consider stopping by The cARTel (+971 4 388 4341, thecartel.me), one of Dubai’s creative retail pioneers. From the outside it looks like an abandoned warehouse. Step inside, however, and a carefully curated selection of clothing awaits. The designers stocked here are often exclusive to the region, with every piece a limited edition to ensure its individuality.

Over the road from The cARTel you’ll find A4 Space (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), a sprawling 6,000 sq ft warehouse that regularly hosts pop-up fashion and art events for the city’s cool crowd.

Situated in Galleria Mall on Al Wasl Road, Cities (+971 4 343 4301, citiesstore.com) showcases a colourful collection of hand-selected art, lighting and home accessories, with a second store at The Dubai Mall. From here, continue along Al Wasl to BoxPark and key an eye out for The Zoo Concept (+971 4 349 5585), which offers everything from novelty gifts and quirky homewares to trendy T-shirts and cool clutches. In Umm Suqeim, check out IF Boutique (+971 4 394 7260, ifboutiquedubai.com) – a villa housing cutting-edge designs from quirky international designers, such as Yohji Yamamoto.

Closet Case

DXB City Expert

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Where To Shop

A short drive along the same street is Garderobe (+971 4 394 2753, garderobe.ae), a hotbed for pre-owned luxury fashion. Expect to find vintage Chanel alongside Céline, Balenciaga beside Burberry, and Dior in company with Dolce & Gabbana.

Holidaymakers planning on retracing Tom Cruise’s footsteps at Dubai International Financial Centre (Cruise ran under the iconic The Gate Building in the fourth installment of Mission: Impossible) should pay Momentum (+971 4 327 4320, momentum-dubai. com) a visit. This vintage and rare watch store offers a raft of timepieces as well as service and repair.

Gents are sure to be impressed by Closet Case at Dubai Design District (+971 5091 22611, closetcase.eu) a multi-brand menswear store all the way from London, which stocks exclusive European, Japanese and Asian designer brands. While you're there, pop your head into some of the other hip outlets that pepper the district and feel the creative energy in the air.

Photography: Henry Niduaza

gO lOCal Dubai is a real hub for emerging and established Middle East fashion designers. For the former, head to Pôlette Concept Store (+971 50 879 6518) in City Walk. It was opened by Esmod Dubai, The French Fashion Institute, and is the only retail startup platform in the world to launch university students’ fashion brands.

Not far from here is Atelier Des Artistes (+971 4 343 4967) in BoxPark, which stocks beautiful limited and one-off designs from some of the region’s leading designers.

Homegrown talent is also making its mark on the international runway.

Madiyah Al Sharqi, daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, is celebrated here and abroad for her statement pieces, feminine separates and dresses. Pick up a Sharqi staple from Symphony (+971 4 310 6904, bysymphony.com) in The Dubai Mall. Also stocked at Symphony is Endemage, an ethnic-

DXB City Expert

chic label created by Omani sisters Nadia and Lubna Zakwani.

Besides the malls, the streets along Jumeirah Beach Road, Al Wasl and surrounding roads are dotted with villas housing local designers. You’ll find Dubai fashion star Rami Al Ali (+971 4 394 5607, ramialali. com), whose couture collections have appeared at Paris Fashion Week, in villa 697 on Al Wasl Road. Book a haute couture consultation or simply scour the rails at Harvey Nichols – Dubai for his understated ready-to-wear collections.

Superstar designer Ezra (+971 4 395 5385, ezrafashiondesign.com), best known for his dreamy, extravagant gowns, creates his masterpieces from his atelier in Dubai’s Jumeirah 3 (villa 746, Al Wasl Road). A must-visit for ultra feminine couture.

best OF bespOKe Dubai has garnered a well-deserved reputation for custom tailoring over the years thanks, in part, to an abundance of fabric stores and quick turnaround times – great for visitors like yourself.

Areas synonymous with tailoring include Satwa – Deepa’s (+971 4 349 4434, deepastailoring.com) is a popular spot; Karama – Dream Girls (+971 4 337 7287) is a regular for Dubai ladies; and Bur Dubai – Parmar Tailors (+971 4 351 3112, parmartailors.com) is a firm favourite for made-to-measure.

These three locations make for a great day out in ‘old’ Dubai, regardless of whether you’re looking for bespoke attire or something more casual.

For a special occasion outfit, head to Scissors Tailoring Studio (+971 50 961 7959) at Kempinski Hotel and Residences Palm Jumeirah Dubai. This boutique tailoring studio, open daily from 10.30am to 7.30pm, specialises in custom clothing and alterations. It also showcases Designs by Rewita, a collection of bespoke outfits custom made to your specifications.

Men can stop by Threads & Tailors (+971 4 34 777 19, threadsandtailors.

Where To Shop

com) in Al Barsha (there's a second branch at The Sustainable City). Here, master tailors create bespoke and made-to-measure suits and shirts at reasonable prices, and it counts tennis ace Roger Federer among its clients.

Nothing says bespoke more than your own custom-blended fragrance.

Head to the Dubai Perfume Souk where vendors will let you smell the different attar oils and mix to order.

Ajmal Perfume (+971 4 282 0400, ajmalperfume.com) at City Centre Mirdif also offers custom services and will keep your scent profile on file for your next visit.

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DXB City Expert

Pandora Autumn 2017 collection

sOUK speCtaCUlaR Nestled in Deira’s maze of winding walkways is a trio of traditional shopping locales, Dubai Gold Souk is best reached by taxi, although the nearest metro stop is Al Ras. The 24-karat heartbeat of the 'city of gold', residents love it as it reminds them of days gone by, while tourists like it for the quality and variety of gold – and the fact that you can haggle.

Nearby is the tiny Spice Souk, home to a number of market stalls selling aromatic spices. It’s an ideal place to stock up on high-quality saffron, locally-blended teas and fresh and sundried organic dates.

Not far away is the Perfume Souk, which is a great place to buy the traditional Arabian scent, oud. You can also buy essential oils at great prices.

Dubai Textile Souk, on the opposite bank of Dubai Creek, is a fabric fairyland for shoppers looking to create bespoke garments. The colourful souk has everything from swathes of sari silk to bolts of embroidered cotton.

sOUveNiRs tO savOUR Say farewell to tacky keychains and fridge magnets and hello to something a little more authentic – starting with Arabica coffee. While a number of coffee shops in Dubai serve Arabica coffee (with a signature date), few sell the beans to take away – apart from Dubai Coffee Museum (+971 4 353

8777, coffeemuseum.ae). Located in Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the museum features a coffee bar on the top floor, where bubbly barista John Paul – an expert when it comes to drinks of the caffeinated kind – serves and sells Arabica coffee to visitors looking for a souvenir with a guaranteed touch of authenticity.

It’s open from 9am to 5pm every day, except Friday.

Camel milk chocolate pairs beautifully with coffee. Pick up a bar from homegrown chocolatier Al Nassma (al-nassma.com), which has kiosks at The Dubai Mall, Souk Madinat Jumeirah and at the airport.

Literature is another cornerstone of Dubai’s history. Head to the vast Kinokuniya (+971 4 434 0111, uae. kinokuniya.com) bookshop in The Dubai Mall to pick up an Arabic poetry book or novel from the growing community of Emirati authors.

Calligraphy, too, is synonymous with Emirati heritage. Gallery 1 (+971 4 432 7493, g-1.com), which has shops at The Walk JBR, Souk Al Bahar and Souk Madinat Jumeirah, among other locations, stocks an enviable selection of calligraphy inspired buys, from prints to notebooks.

A global hub for the gold and precious metals trade, a more sentimental purchase can be bartered for at Dubai Gold Souk where more than 300 stores offer a gleaming array of gold jewellery. For a one-of-a-kind creation, like an engagement ring, head to Cara Jewellers (+971 4 347 8089, carajewellers.com) at the Gold & Diamond Park on Sheikh Zayed Road.

If that's too bold a move, you can still charm your way into her heart with the new Pandora Arabic Love Hearts charm (pandora.net). In sterling silver and featuring the Arabic script for "love", it makes a sweet keepsake.

What To Do

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DXB City Expert

What

DO Chapter FIVE

Think you’re only here for the sun and shopping? Think again. Dubai boasts ample attractions that you’ll want to experience before heading home. The fun starts here

TakE In a show For a mesmerising show you can’t see anywhere else on Earth, the recently opened La Perle by Dragone (+971 4 437 0123, laperle.com) is a must.

Dubai’s first permanent show, which launched at the end of August, has been masterminded by artistic director Franco Dragone and takes place inside a purpose-built, state-of-theart aqua theatre at Al Habtoor City.

The performance lasts for 90 minutes and you’re in for a visual treat: think awe-inspiring aquatic and aerial feats, creative imagery and cutting-edge technology. La Perle takes place twice a night, five days a week. Performances run from Tuesday to Friday at 7pm and 9:30pm, and Saturday at 4pm and 7pm.

While you’re in the mood for entertainment, check out what’s on at Dubai Opera (+971 4 440 8888, dubaiopera.com), where culture

fans of all ages can enjoy local and international productions of opera, ballet and musical theatre, as well as family-friendly entertainment like magic shows. The dhow-shaped performing arts theatre is located in glittering Downtown Dubai, the contemporary cultural heart of the city, and the architecture is as impressive as the line-up of events, with the 'bow' containing the auditorium. It's also home to Sean Connolly at Dubai Opera.

What To Do

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La Perle by Dragone

abouT ThIs ChapTEr As you’ll read, there is much to do in Dubai and, as such, we’ve ensured our recommendations include plenty of options for grown ups and kids. By far the best way to get your bearings – and to see all of the city – is by starting out with a City Sightseeing Dubai hop-on, hop-off bus tour (see Top Of The Tours for booking details). Then it’s all about ticking off that to-do list…

DXB City Expert

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What To Do

FEEl on Top oF ThE world Ascending the world’s tallest tower is high up on most visitors’ must-do list, and At The Top, Burj Khalifa (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) is sure to impress.

A high-speed elevator takes you to the observation deck on Level 124, which is a vertigo inducing 452 metres above ground , offering panoramic views of the emirate through floor-toceiling glass. Next, walk up the spiral, glass-walled staircase to Level 125, where viewfinders provide a virtual tour of the city from the perspective of a falcon. Premium-ticket holders can visit the highest outdoor observatory in the world, At the Top, Burj Khalifa SKY, situated 555 metres high.

If you want to linger a little longer, you can enjoy a sumptuous afternoon tea at At.mosphere Lounge. It's open daily until 11pm. Advance booking is recommended and bear in mind that there’s a minimum spend.

Heavenly Spa by Westin at The Westin Dubai, Al Habtoor City

all ThE Fun oF ThE FounTaIns At the foot of Burj Khalifa is a 30-acre lake, in which stands the world’s largest dancing fountain. The Dubai Fountain has multiple jets that shoot water 500 feet into the air – about the height of a 50-storey building – while ‘dancing’ to the music. Shows are daily at 1pm and 1.30pm (1.30pm and 2pm on Fridays) and every 30 minutes from 6pm to 11pm. Bag a table on the terrace of a lakeside restaurant, watch for free from the Waterfront Promenade, or see it in style aboard an abra that will sail as close to the action as possible.

Tickets cost Dhs65 per person and can be purchased from the counter on the Waterfront Promenade, or from At The Top, Burj Khalifa.

hIT ThE parks For thrills and spills, head to Dubai Parks and Resorts (+971 4 820 0000, dubaiparksandresorts.com) in Jebel

DXB City Expert

Ali. On top of being home to the totfriendly Legoland Water Park, there are three world-class theme parks to enjoy: Motiongate Dubai, Bollywood Parks Dubai and Legoland Dubai.

Legoland Dubai (which adjoins the waterpark) has six themed lands with 40 rides, shows and attractions, and 15,000 Lego models built using more than 60 million bricks.

Bollywood Parks Dubai has a plethora of rides and attractions inspired by nine colourful Bollywood films and up to 30 live shows a day across six stages. The 850-seat Rajmahal Theatre is home to a separately ticketed Broadway-style, Bollywood-themed musical, too.

Cricket fans will love Lagaan, a motion simulator ride based on the cricketthemed film of the same name.

With a theme of a different kind, Motiongate Dubai is jam-packed with roller-coasters, multimedia dark rides and live shows based on characters from blockbuster films including

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Ghostbusters, Shrek, Kung Fu Panda, The Hunger Games and The Smurfs, who even have their own village.

Connecting the entire development is Riverland Dubai, a free-to-enter retail and dining district with more than 50 shops and eateries across four themed zones – The French Village, Boardwalk, India Gate and The Peninsula – set beside a picturesque man-made river. Individual park tickets cost from Dhs215 for Bollywood Parks Dubai and Dhs265 for Motiongate Dubai and Legoland Dubai. If you are keen to experience two theme parks in one day, you can take advantage of special admissiononly tickets from Dhs335. Check the website for updates.

rIdE a rollEr CoasTEr Carry on the fast-paced fun at IMG Worlds of Adventure (+971 4 403 8888, imgworlds.com) – the world’s largest indoor theme park. It has four zones – Cartoon Network, Marvel, Lost Valley–Dinosaur Adventure and IMG Boulevard – under one roof and more than 20 rides and attractions, including a first-of-its-kind Hulk 3D ride with 18 IMAX projectors and a genuinely terrifying Haunted Hotel, (you need to be aged 15 or over to enter). Youngsters will love the Ben 10 5D cinema experience and live stage shows featuring characters from LazyTown, while adrenaline junkies should make a beeline for The Velociraptor roller coaster, which hits speeds of up to 100kph in just 2.5 seconds. Another favourite is SpiderMan Doc Ock’s Revenge, a 400-metrelong coaster with spinning carriages.

Of the 28 international food outlets, we recommend the Indian street food at Samosa House (be sure to nab one of the tuk-tuk tables), while Tony’s Skydeck, based on Iron Man’s alter ego, serves upmarket steak and seafood with brilliant views of the park. There are 25 retail outlets stocking plenty of original merchandise that you won’t find anywhere else. Tickets cost Dhs245 for adults and Dhs225 for kids.

Those under 1.05 metres tall go free.

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sChEdulE In somE spa TImE Dubai is home to some of the world’s most luxurious spas renowned for their pampering treatments. At the world’s tallest hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, you’ll find Saray Spa (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai. com). Spanning the entire third floor of both towers, it’s one of the largest and most stunning spas in town, with arabesque arches, lanterns and latticework. Alongside an extensive treatment menu, it has its own Dead Sea flotation pool. Try the Signature Dead Sea Journey – two heavenly hours of salt scrubs, mud masks, soaking and massage for Dhs990.

More pampering awaits at Anantara Spa at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort (+971 4 567 8140, dubai-palm. anantara.com). Housed in its own private two-storey wing, there are 24 individual treatment rooms and five in-demand couples’ suites with a combination of Sterali steam baths, experience showers, hi-tech ‘fountain of youth’ whirlpools and infinity solo pool baths; alongside a dedicated Ayurveda suite, Thai massage suite and holistic experience room. The centerpiece of the spa is the opulent Ottoman era-designed hammam, delivered by expert therapists who will steam, scrub and cleanse your body to silken perfection. Open daily from 10am to 10pm.

You can admire the city view while getting a rub down at Heavenly Spa

by Westin at The Westin Dubai, Al Habtoor City (the couples' suite has a premier view of Burj Khalifa). This expansive 4,000sqm spa spans the length of the 6th floor of the hotel and, aside from the 20 treatment rooms, it has a hammam room, wet area with two hot tubs, sensory showers and a full yoga studio.

EXpErIEnCE snow and ICE While a winter wonderland in a desert city sounds fantastical, it does exist in Dubai. Located in Mall of the Emirates, Ski Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com

ask a loCal Yanishen Munusami Cabin crew I’m a big fan of art and design so I like quirky attractions, such as gallery displays, street art and so on. When I have visitors over, Al Quoz is always top of my list. Alserkal Avenue is my personal favourite spot, as it has a great display of contemporary art and also hosts independent film screenings, talks with artists, and workshops – it’s great for showing an alternative side to Dubai.

Stop at Wild & The Moon (wildandthemoon.ae) for a refreshing smoothie and some raw vegan goodies.

or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) is the go-to place for skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing or just to throw snowballs.

Clothing and equipment are available for hire, and there are lessons for budding skiers aged three and up, and boarders aged eight and over. Don’t miss the free penguin parades, daily at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm and 8pm.

Dubai’s other mega mall has its own penguins, too, albeit plastic ones.

Dubai Ice Rink (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com), the Olympic-sized rink at The Dubai Mall, has public sessions for beginner and intermediate skaters, as well as snowfall sessions every Tuesday and Thursday at 6pm, and Friday

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and Saturday at 4:30pm. Penguin Pal skating aids are available for little ones measuring a minimum of one metre tall, while there are Snowmen for adults and children over 12 who are unsteady on their skates.

ChIll ouT In ThE dEsErT Yes, you’ve read that correctly. You really can spend a day chilling out amid the sand dunes by heading out of town to the magnificent Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa (+971 4 832 9900). The ‘pool package’ treats visitors to a full day's access to the resort’s main pool, nestled in the sweeping sands, as well as use of the facilities at Timeless Spa, and a three-course à-la-carte lunch inclusive of soft drinks, tea and coffee.

It is priced at Dhs550 per person.

Alternatively, desert safari tours are popular all year round and often incorporate dune bashing in four-wheel-drive, a lavish Arabic feast within a traditional tented environment, a belly dancing show, camel rides and more.

hIT ThE bEaCh If you’re staying in a hotel without its own private beach, but a dose of sea and sand is high on your holiday wish list then you can head to one of Dubai’s many beautiful public beaches.

Backed by a low-rise collection of restaurants, cafés and boutiques, and featuring a winding walkway dotted with food stalls and kids’ playgrounds, The Beach at JBR (800 637 227, thebeach.ae) is one of the most popular spots along the Arabian Gulf. There are excellent changing facilities with showers, as well as all manner of activities to enjoy (from beach football to early morning yoga), and you can rent a sunbed with an umbrella and towel for Dhs110 per day. Step into one of sunscreen-spray machines for SPF protection in a flash.

Another firm favourite is the stretch of sand running the length of Umm Suqeim known as Kite Beach, thanks to its popularity with kite-surfers (you can sign up for lessons, too). It boasts a

promenade with a handful of cool cafés, changing facilities and showers, sunbed and umbrella rental, as well as a jogging track and the brilliant XDubai Skatepark for budding skate stars.

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Horse riding at Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa

makE a bIG splash Water babies are spoilt for choice, as Dubai has three first-rate water parks offering something for all ages.

Located in front of the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab, Wild Wadi Water Park (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is the more manageable of the two original parks, with over 30 rides and attractions.

From kid-friendly slides and the relaxing lazy river to adrenalinefuelled surfing experiences and the truly terrifying Jumeirah Sceirah, it’s impossible not to have fun.

Over on Palm Jumeirah you’ll find Aquaventure Waterpark (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai. It comprises 17 hectares of heart-stopping slides, rides, pools and interconnecting waterways, along with a huge kids’ play area, exhilarating zip line, pristine private beach, private cabanas and the not-so-small matter of Shark Lagoon, where you can handfeed gentle rays. Celebrating your birthday while in Dubai? Register online at atlantisthepalm.com for a free Aquaventure day pass to use during your birthday week.

Over at Jebel Ali at Dubai Parks and Resorts, you'll find a relative newbie to the scene: Legoland Water Park (legoland.ae), which is designed especially for families with kids aged two to 12. Open daily, the troops can slip, slide and splash their way through 15 Lego-inspired water slides, raft rides and pools. Make a beeline for the Build-ARaft-River, where you can construct your own Lego raft and float around the lazy river. The Duplo area has slides, rides and play areas for toddlers. A oneday pass starts from Dhs185 per person and dual entry to the waterpark and Legoland Dubai costs from Dhs335.

Wild Wadi Water Park

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ask a loCal Lawry Cook Sustainability Manager I'm an avid gold player and there’s a massive golf culture here in Dubai – the courses are simply stunning. Jumeriah Golf Estates (+971 4 818 2000, jumeirahgolfestates.com) is the club I’m a long-term member of so when I have friends and family visiting this is where I tend to take them. For a fee, they can play a round and experience unbeatable hospitality on the course – all with some pretty amazing views.

soak up somE CulTurE The new Etihad Museum (etihadmuseum.dubaiculture.ae) tells the story of the formation of the United Arab Emirates in 1971. Located next to Union House in Jumeirah, the striking structure resembles a manuscript with seven tapering golden columns representing the pens used to sign the unification agreement. Photographs, films, documents, personal artefacts and interactive pavilions provide an interesting insight into the history of the UAE, before and after unification.

The museum is open daily from 10am to 8pm and tickets costs Dhs25 or Dhs10 for six- to 24-year-old students, while under-fives go free.

Dubai also has a burgeoning art scene to explore that's centred around Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC) and the industrial area of Al Quoz. The former is home to a dozen spaces including Ayyam Gallery (+971 4 439 2395, ayyamgallery.com), which promotes emerging and established

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DXB City Expert

artists from the Middle East, and The Empty Quarter (+971 4 323 1210, theemptyquarter.com), which is the city’s only gallery devoted exclusively to fine-art photography.

Arguably the hippest art hub, Alserkal Avenue (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae) is in Al Quoz. There are around 15 galleries housed in converted warehouses here, including Leila Heller Gallery (+971 56 831 3520, leilahellergallery.com) and Gulf Photo Plus (+971 4 380 8545, gulfphotoplus.com), a one-stop-shop for shutterbugs of all levels.

Near Dubai Creek in Bur Dubai, Majlis Gallery (+971 4 353 6233, themajlisgallery.com) is also well worth a visit. Featuring regional and international artists, it’s Dubai’s oldest art gallery, established over 25 years ago in a wind tower house in Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood.

To view some awesome street art, check out City Walk, an outdoor shopping and lifestyle destination that has been adorned with the work of 16 renowned street artists including Ron English, Nick Walker and Blek Le Rat. It’s all part of the Dubai Walls (dubaiwalls.com) initiative to promote street art in the Middle East. For more, head to 2nd December Street in Satwa where, for the Dubai Street Museum project, prominent international mural and graffiti artists have brought the walls to life, drawing on themes from the UAE’s history and heritage.

sEE ThE CITy From aboVE Skydiving is on every daredevil’s bucket list and there’s no better place to do it than here. Skydive Dubai (+971 4 377 8888, skydivedubai.ae) has one of the world’s most spectacular tandem jumps over the iconic Palm Jumeirah. If you’d rather not leap out of a plane, iFly Dubai (+971 4 231 6292, theplaymania.com) lets you defy gravity in its amazing indoor wind tunnel.

For a less nerve-racking experience, Seawings (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) offers a range of scenic flights, including the Dubai Creek Silver tour,

a 40-minute ‘dock to dock’ seaplane excursion above Dubai Creek, Palm Jumeirah, Burj Khalifa and more.

If the VIP treatment is more your thing, nothing beats hovering around town in a helicopter. Fly High Helicopter Services (advance booking via City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) offers 15- or 25-minute tours from its helipad at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, as well as helicopter transfers so you can arrive in style. Meanwhile, Heli Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) takes off

from Dubai Festival City, with 12- or 22-minute aerial tours over Dubai’s stratosphere-nudging skyscrapers for an unforgettable experience.

bE ClosEr To naTurE Swing through the trees at Aventura Nature Adventure Park (aventuraparks. com), a family-friendly attraction in Mushrif Park’s Ghaf tree forest. It's open for the winter season from October, inviting adventurous types to leap their way through the various elevated obstacles. From the 25-metre Tarzan

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planted all over it, which will continue to creep and grow across its branches.

As you slowly descend from the top of the dome via a winding path, you’ll encounter exotic animals along the way, such as toucans, macaws, porcupines and even a sloth. Don't miss the butterfly releases that take place twice per day.

Ask staff inside if there is one happening during your visit time. Open from 10am to 10pm (midnight on weekends), tickets cost Dhs95 for adults and Dhs70 for two- to 12-year-olds.

sEE amazInG sEa lIFE

Aventura

Jump to the high-altitude Thriller zipline that will send you on a 160-metrelong journey though the forest, there's a dare for all skill levels. Open from Sun to Weds, from 9:30am to sunset and 9am to sunset on weekends. General access is priced at Dhs150 or Dhs125 for children under 1.4m-tall. There's a play area for those aged four to seven.

For more natural attractions, Dubai Butterfly Garden (+971 4 422 8902, dubaibutterflygarden.com) is a fluttery attraction unlike any other in the city.

Located in Al Barsha South, there are five temperature-controlled domes

filled with thousands of plants, flowers and butterflies from all around the world, along with a butterfly and insect museum. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, tickets cost Dhs50.

The Green Planet (thegreenplanet dubai.com) at City Walk in Jumeirah is the region’s first bio-dome. Flooded with natural light, the five-level glass building recreates the ecosystem of a tropical forest, with over 3,000 plants and animals and the world’s largest indoor man-made tree as its centrepiece. While the 25-metre-tall tree is fake, it is lifesustaining in that real plants have been

Some of Dubai’s best family-friendly attractions can be found under the sea.

Home to over 65,000 marine animals, The Lost Chambers Aquarium (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai will mesmerise visitors of all ages. There are over 20 themed exhibits housing creatures from all over the world. Visitors can also book a behind-the-scenes tour or swim, snorkel or dive with sharks.

Meanwhile, The Dubai Mall is home to the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), one of the largest suspended aquariums on the planet. Marvel at over 140 species of sea life, including more than 300 sharks and rays, or rent some scuba gear and sidle up alongside the inhabitants of the 10-million-litre tank.

No diving experience is required.

Head into the zoo to see the likes of penguins, otters, giant spider crabs and King Croc, who weighs in at 750kg. The Animal Encounter Experiences provide behind-the-scenes access to otters, rays or saltwater crocodiles. The meet-andgreet sessions take place every hour, daily, from 11am to 10pm.

Conservation is in focus at the turtle lagoon at Jumeirah Al Naseem (+971 4 366 8888, jumeirah.com).

It's the new home for the Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation Project, run in

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collaboration with Emirates Wildlife Society, which aims to care for, protect and rehabilitate sick sea turtles. Since 2004 it has seen the release of more than 560 rescued sea turtles back into Dubai’s waters. Visitors can see them up close during the feeding sessions that take place every Wednesday from 11am. Admission is free and feeding priority is given to children.

TakE To ThE hIGh sEas Sailing and yachting are popular pastimes here, and cruising past Palm Jumeirah toward the iconic Burj Al Arab at sunset is one of the most memorable ways to experience Dubai. Deep-sea fishing is another big draw, with species such as king mackerel and barracuda tempting anglers. First Yacht (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) specialises in tailor-made luxury yacht and catamaran charters and private fishing trips, as well as powerboat rides and romantic dinner cruises for two.

Sea Hunters (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) is another good operator that can organise deep-sea fishing tours, luxury yacht and catamaran charters, and flashy speedboat cruises around Palm Jumeirah.

swInG InTo aCTIon Dubai has become a major golf destination and boasts an impressive collection of high-caliber courses. There are some great golf deals to be had at the various clubs around town. Firm favourite Emirates Golf Club (+971 4 380 1234, dubaigolf.com) was the first all grass championship golf course in the Middle East when it opened in 1988. Today, it is the annual host of the European Tour Omega Dubai Desert Classic and Omega Dubai Ladies Masters. It has two 18-hole par-72 championship courses and a stunning clubhouse inspired by Bedouin tents.

The Majlis course has open horizons and stretches of sand along with more traditional bunkers, while the Faldo, redesigned by Nick Faldo in 2005, has a wadi (valley) running through it, which is sure to challenge first-timers.

The Faldo is also the only 18-hole course in the region to offer night golf. You can play 18 holes at the Majlis for Dhs905 until the end of October, or at the Faldo from Dhs795 during peak times (Fridays, Saturdays and public holidays) or Dhs675 during off peak times. A round of night golf at the Faldo course, from 4pm, costs from Dhs475.

Jumeirah Golf Estates (+971 4 818 2000, jumeirahgolfestates.com) has two Greg Norman-designed championship courses – Fire and Earth – matched by excellent club facilities.

Inspired by the great parkland courses of Europe and North America, the Earth course is home to the DP World Tour Championship, the grand finale of the European Tour’s Race to Dubai. You can play 18 holes on the Earth course for Dhs1,045 on weekdays or Dhs1,145 on weekends. The Fire course will set you back Dhs850 on weekdays and Dhs975 at weekends.

If your game is not quite at the level of Matthew Fitzpatrick's, sharpen your skills at the more forgiving The Track (+971 4 381 3733, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel. It has a great 9-hole course offering five different tee positions (perfect if you’re a beginner).

Prices start from Dhs300 for 9 holes during weekdays, rising to Dhs360 (at weekends. For 18 holes you're looking at Dhs495 on weekdays and Dhs695 at weekends.

GET on TraCk Petrolheads can do more than just drool at Dubai’s legion of supercars.

Slip behind the wheel of a single-seater F3 race car, McLaren, Audi TT or R8 supercar at Dubai Autodrome (advance booking via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com). Track experiences combine classroom and behind-thewheel training from a professional racing driver, before you’re let loose to do a few laps on your own – guaranteed to raise the heart rate.

The complex is also home to Dubai Kartdrome, which has indoor and outdoor tracks that are suitable for big kids and little ones aged seven and up. The 1.2-kilometre-long outdoor

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circuit features 17 corners, a tunnel and bridge, while the 500-metre-long indoor track allows up to 10 karters to race at any one time. All the karts are equipped with timers so you can test your mettle against your mates.

bEyond shoppInG aT ThE dubaI mall The Dubai Mall has a host of activities to keep the whole tribe entertained.

Gamers of all ages will love SEGA Republic (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a huge indoor theme park with 15 rides including a roller coaster, and hundreds of hi-tech games.

KidZania

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Little ones will adore KidZania (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a sprawling mini-city that invites children to dabble in 80 different careers, from pilot to police officer. Aviation enthusiasts aged nine and over can fly the world’s largest passenger plane at the Emirates A380 Experience state-of-the-art flight simulator (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com).

ImmErsIVE yoursElF In Fun If you’re a gamer, you’ll love Hub Zero (800 637 227, hubzerodubai.com) at City Walk, where the real and virtual

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worlds collide for thrills aplenty.

Shooting games include Resident Evil, an interactive 3D trackless dark ride during which you’ll fight off zombies, and Battlefield, which sees you don vision-enhancing goggles to identify the enemy’s weak point and blast your way to victory with a laser gun. If you like a scare, 4D cinema experience Asura’s Wrath includes leg ticklers, seat vibration, water and wind, while the roller coaster inside Dragon Age pits you in a 360° aerial battle, during which you'll dodge arrows, trees and a magical vortex. Soft play area for younger kids, fun for children and adults alike.

Tickets can be booked online and cost from Dhs160 to Dhs195 (from Dhs95 for kids).

DXB City Expert

Jump To IT A trampolining trend is sweeping the city, with fantastic facilities to choose from. Bounce (+971 4 321 1400, bounce.ae) in Al Quoz has more than 100 interconnected trampolines, along with wall running, foam pits, dodgeball, a slam-dunk area and a flight academy where experts can teach you how to jump, somersault and do stunts. In the same neighbourhood, Flip Out (600 567 568, flipout.ae) boasts more than 200 interconnecting trampolines and 10 trampoline-based attractions, including the Double Decker Kids’ Arena – which has smaller mats and custom springs so the trampolines extra safe for kids and toddlers.

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DXB City Expert

Chapter SIX

WHERE TO

go Where once it was a city bereft of cool clubs and nightlife to speak of, Dubai now attracts the biggest names in the business to a stellar line-up of fabulous venues. Get your glad rags on – we’re going out

HEY MR DJ As the city cools off for the winter season, outdoor nightspots are slowly springing back to life to compete alongside all the fabulous indoor venues for a spot on your evening itinerary.

You can dance your socks off in the open-air mega venue Base (taxi: Dubai Design District, +971 55 313 4999).

The homegrown concept is now open for a brand new season, with dance nights on Thursdays and hip hop on Fridays. There's space for 1,000 on the dancefloor, where you can immerse yourself in the club vibe thanks to the state-of-the-art sound and lighting system. Even the walls are cool, adorned with the work of calligrapher Pokras Lampas. This month sees Erick Morillo and Cathylicious with Cathy Guetta, among others, take to the decks. Plus, every weekend the venue is

transformed by an entertainment squad flown in from the Big Apple, who create an 'elements' inspired evening.

Since launching four years ago, Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE (taxi: Golden Tulip Al Jazira Hotels & Resort, Ghantoot, +971 51 133 3400) has set the benchmark high for house-music parties in the country. Hordes of glamazons make the 30-minute journey towards Abu Dhabi for this Balearic beach party with its cutting-edge house-centric line-ups. It's the place to be seen – and to spend a lazy beach day.

Open for the season from September, White Dubai (taxi: The Meydan, +971 50 443 0933), the sister lounge and club to the Beirut original. Like its Lebanese sibling, it’s high on the glam factor, with a good-looking crowd partying on the wrap-around rooftop terrace with its spectacular city views from Thurday to Saturday.

Continuing with the beachy theme, Zero Gravity (taxi: Skydive Dubai, +971 4 399 0009) is the city’s current hot spot. Part beach club, part open-air party, and packed every weekend, it has welcomed big names like Paul Van Dyk and Mark Ronson as well as more alternative acts like Mr Scruff to play under the stars.

Nikki Beach Resort & Spa (taxi: Pearl Jumeira, +971 4 376 6162) is the city’s newest beach club and the 13th of its kind to open worldwide.

Like its stylish global counterparts – from Miami to Marbella – the Dubai outpost plays host to a solid selection of resident DJs and attracts a photogenic crowd of party people.

360° (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, +971 4 406 8999) boasts panoramic city views from its Arabian Gulf perch.

With a stunning deck and indoor nightclub, it hosts resident DJs every

Base

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About tHIS CHAptER The UAE weekend is Friday/Saturday. As such, Thursday and Friday nights are usually the busiest across town. The legal age to drink alcohol in Dubai – and enter a nightclub – is 21, and while nowhere employs a seriously strict dress-code policy, you won’t get in if you’re dressed for the beach – no shorts, open-toe sandals or the like in this town, please. We’ve included a taxi reference for you – ask the driver to head here – as most will not know the location of the club or lounge if you say its name only.

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Friday for deep-house kicks, with a rotating DJ line-up every Thursday.

Spanish for 'beach bar', the fleet of supercars parked out the front of El Chiringuito (taxi: Rixos The Palm, +971 4 277 9180) is an early indication of the people-watching potential at this cool Ibizan beach club import. The venue provides Instagram worthy snaps by the bucket load and its popular Nomad ceremonies draw quite the crowd, thanks to the stellar line-up of local music maestros. On Friday afternoons there is DJ action on the decks – you can't miss the spinner in the 'tree of life' DJ booth – inspiring glamorous partygoers to party hard under a canopy of wisteria. Call in advance to reserve your Bali bed.

Alternatively, transport yourself to the shores of the south of France at VIP Room (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, +971 52 881 8888), bringing with it a reputation for hosting big urban acts and a celebrity clientele. The Dubai outpost does much the same, with Mondays and Thursdays all about the hip hop, with house music making an appearance on other nights.

Get your groove on to 80s, 90s and 00s tune at the recently relaunched Societe Dubai (taxi: Byblos Marina Hotel, +971 50 699 3191), one of the city's late night-early morning stalwarts where retro hits ensure that the dance floor is packed five nights a week with a trend-setting playlist shaking things up at the weekend. Another imported chain, Provocateur (taxi: Four Seasons Dubai, + 971 55 211 8222) began life in New York as a bottle-service club that catered to high-end house-music lovers. Fittingly, the Dubai branch welcomed 4/4 heavyweights like Seth Troxler and White Isle favourite Solomon during its first season. More recently, it has shifted its focus to home-grown talents.

Movida (taxi: Radisson Royal Hotel, +971 55 174 4449) is another of the city’s regular hot spots. It frequently hosts established and up-and-coming rappers such as OT Genasis, and has a very commercial hip-hop and house/ EDM soundtrack on the weekend. If you like to see bottles of bubbly with

sparklers in them paraded every 20 minutes, this is the club for you. Its five illuminated dance floors practically beg you to bust some moves.

You can indulge your love of R&B, hip-hop and UKG and funk out on Palm Jumeirah at N'Dulge (taxi: Atlantis the Palm, Dubai, +971 4 426 0561), a three-in-one arena, lounge and terrace venue that offers two free beverages for ladies arriving before midnight.

Saturdays are dedicated to commercial and house music, with DJ Dean Curtis pumping out the tunes.

Cirque le Soir (taxi: Fairmont Dubai, +971 50 995 5400) is the emirate's offshoot of the London A-list haunt.

Open Monday to Friday from 10.30pm to 3am, it features performances from an outlandish cast of contortionists, stilt-walkers and fire-eaters, alongside some of the city's best DJs.

DXB City Expert El Chiringuito

tHE bESt LIVE MuSIC Live music abounds at the aptly titled The Music Room (taxi: Majestic Tower Hotel, +971 4 501 2534) in Bur Dubai. Promising local – and frequently international – bands, this spacious venue attracts a knowledgeable crowd.

Musically open-minded, it’s hosted local metal giants Nervecell, Bon Jovi tribute acts, and alternative DJs like drum-and-bass kingpin Goldie and jazz-funk troubadour Quantic.

The world-famous Hard Rock Café (taxi: Festival City, +971 4 232 8900) is always a great spot for live rock music, and Dubai’s outlet is no different. The original Hard Rock Dubai caused something of a local stir when it was demolished a few years back, but the new venue in Dubai Festival City has a whole host of musical memorabilia for fans to peruse – including a bolero jacket worn by the late Prince and Mick Fleetwood’s Tama drums. It’s as close as you’ll get to an all-American rock bar in Dubai.

Embracing all things African, Nairobi-owned KIZA (taxi: Emirates Financial Towers, +971 4 453 9038) is the city’s first authentic African lounge and restaurant. Boasting its very own Afro-jazz troupe, The KIZA band

shakes things up every Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, guaranteed to inject a bit of soul into your evening.

An upbeat eatery boasting some great live music is Jazz@Pizza Express (taxi: Movenpick, JLT, +971 4 441 6342), which – you’ve guessed it – serves up pizza and jazz. With different themed sessions including open-mic nights and a Friday brunch, it’s good value for money.

For a taste of music, Big Easy-style, head to Nola (taxi: Armanda Tower, JLT, +971 3 998 155) and soak up the sounds of a live saxophonist every Friday at this New Orleans-inspired secret. For hipsters, it’s got to be Tribeca (taxi: JA Ocean View Hotel, +971 4 814 5599), where the relaxed vibe comes with a side of chilled-out music and glass of organic grape.

Just up the street is Frankie's Italian Bar & Grill (taxi: JA Oasis Beach Tower, +971 4 399 4311). Co-owned by jockey Frankie Dettori and chef Marco Pierre White, it has a full week of live music on the menu. Sundays and Mondays its resident singer and pianist

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turns into an excellent open-air club playing soul-infused house music. Ultra cool chic and plenty of white linen is de rigeur at The Jetty Lounge (taxi: One&Only Royal Mirage, +971 4 399 9999). Rocking a casually stylish vibe with a dab of romance, the chillout lounge, which also serves great food, is a perennial favourite.

CRACkIng kARAokE

do their thing while a lively jazz duo kick it up Tuesday through Saturday.

Rock out at Lock, Stock & Barrel (taxi: Grand Millennium Dubai, +971 4 514 9195 - or head to the latest outpost at Rixos Premium Dubai in JBR) which promises an urban, food truck inspired vibe, with no pretences.

SIppIng unDER tHE StARS For most of the year, Dubai is blessed with gorgeous weather and while summer calls a temporary halt to al fresco fun, October brings a host of outdoor options.

Barasti (taxi: Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, +971 4 399 333) has been ruling the roost for 20 years, pulling in thousands of revellers every weekend. It combines live music, daily sunbathing sessions, a sand-between-your-toes dance floor and more serving stations than you can shake an empty glass at.

At the other end of the city, 40Kong (taxi: The H Hotel, +971 4 355 8896) commands impressive views of

Sheikh Zayed Road from its 40th floor vantage point and its lush landscaped terrace has an alluring escapist quality that makes it the perfect segueway destination to transition from sundowners to a nightcap.

With Burj Khalifa in its back garden, Treehouse (taxi: Taj Dubai, +971 4 438 3100) has unbeatable views from its leafy third-floor terrace. Wooden floors, comfy sofas and an open-air fireplace create an intimate feel, and the music grows as the night goes on, with DJ Tayllor playing an eclectic mix of commercial and deep-house tunes.

If you fancy your drink with a side of vertigo, Pure Sky Lounge (taxi: Hilton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 111) is a sure bet. Decked out in white, blue and plenty of glass, the 35th floor lounge offers stunning views out to sea and a very cool soundtrack.

Bliss Lounge (taxi: Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 5533) is one of Dubai Marina’s best beachside options with memorable sea views from one of the city’s most high-profile stretches of shoreline and, at night, it

Karaoke is all the rage in Dubai at the moment, with two new venues joining the fray in recent months.

Blind Dragon (taxi: The Atrium at Al Habtoor City, +971 4 437 0033), in new entertainment hub The Atrium, on the banks of Dubai Water Canal, is the sister venue to the original A-list LA hangout. The opulent Asian-themed lounge has both public and private karaoke suites in which you can enjoy cocktails and light bites as you belt out the tunes, plus there’s a resident DJ playing nightly until the early hours.

Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 5pm until 2am.

Imported from London, Lucky Voice (taxi: Grand Millennium Hotel, +971 4 429 9999) is a top spot for testing your rap skills, singing soft-rock anthems or just screaming cheesy pop tunes to your heart’s content. Eleven private pods allow groups of six to 18 people to warble away without (much) fear of embarrassment, while the 15,000-song playlist means you’re almost guaranteed to find the perfect tune for you. There’s also a VIP pod suitable for 25.

For a guaranteed fun night out, make tracks to Deira for Kabayan Karaoke at JW Marriott Hotel Dubai (+971 4 607 7977, marriottdiningatjw.ae). Every Tuesday from 7pm to 11.30pm, you can join the live Filipino band on stage to belt out your favourite songs, indulge in delicious Filipino food from the buffet and enjoy three hours of unlimited house drinks for just Dhs99.

CafĂŠ Artois by Bridgewater Tavern Where To Go

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LADIES’ nIgHtS wE LoVE Like Friday brunch, ‘ladies’ night’ is something of a Dubai institution. It's usually staged on Tuesdays, but is increasingly popping up at a number of venues throughout the week. The nights are so named because ladies get to drink for free – in some places to a limitless degree.

Start the week off with a night out in the heart of the city's upmarket financial district, DIFC. Bazxar's Gossip Sundays (taxi: DIFC, +971 4 355 1111) serves up unlimited glasses of grape from 8-11pm in a colourful funky Asian street market meets Manhattan bar setting.

If bubbles by the beach sound appealing, then Sparkle in the Sand at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort (+971 4 567 8302) is just the ticket.

Every Tuesday from 8pm, ladies can sip unlimited bubbles in the relaxed beach bar overlooking the resort’s Thai-style over-water villas for just Dhs75 per person. The first 50 ladies will be given a silk pouch containing a gem, one of which will contain a genuine precious stone, and they have until 10pm to visit Dhamani Jewellers in the lobby to find out if theirs is the real deal.

If you’d rather soak up Dubai’s Blade Runner-esque skyline, Vault (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, +971 50 738 1388), located on the 71st and 72nd floors of the world’s tallest hotel, is the ideal setting. Ladies can enjoy three complimentary drinks every Tuesday from 7pm to midnight, while the DJ mixes an eclectic selection of beats.

Contemporary Japanese hotspot, Ramusake (taxi: Doubletree by Hilton JBR, +971 4 559 5300) attracts Miss Independent types at its go-getter ladies' night every Wednesday, with free-flowing complimentary grape from 8pm to midnight.

A slightly surreal experience beckons on Thursdays at Toy Room (taxi: Roda Al Murooj, +971 55 246 4555). Party people can make the most the of the four-hour open bar (11pm to 3am) while getting down to urban music sounds. Keep an eye out for the giant walking-talking teddy bear.

FoR SoMEtHIng DIFFEREnt We’re not sure why it hasn’t been done before, but Stereo Arcade (taxi: Double Tree by Hilton, +971 52 618 2424) combines a stereo arcade (naturally) housing over 50,000 games with a slushy machine, hotdog stand and more. Fun aside, the hi-tech club plays '80s and '90s hits every weekend.

For a tipple with a real twist, push the bookcase in the lobby of the Dusit Thani hotel. It will open to reveal a hidden door, on which you must knock to gain entry to the Nippon Bottle Company (taxi: Dusit Thani, +971 4 357 0779), a Japanese speakeasy.

It offers an impressive list of Japanese drinks, which are now considered to be some of the best in the world.

Also tucked away on the ground floor of a five-star hotel – in this case, the Conrad Dubai – is Little Black Door (+971 55 623 1620, knocktoenter. com). You’ll have no problem spotting it, though – the ‘little black door’ is actually huge – and inside you’ll find a classy, club-style lounge, with crystal chandeliers hanging from leatherclad ceilings, opulent furnishings and distressed-brick walls. The resident DJs play neo-soul and classic jazz, while you nibble on Mediterranean bar bites and sip fabulous cocktails.

Hobo (taxi: Nassima Royal Hotel, +971 55 927 0815) is another cool place with a secretive, speakeasy feel.

To find it you’ll have to venture through the fourth floor of the car park to the rear of the Nassima Royal Hotel, where you’ll find a small sign flanked by dapper doormen. They’ll lead you inside, where mixologists stir up a storm and DJs Fredrick Stone and Jean B spin the vinyl – no mixing by button here, thankfully. With an intimate, underground vibe, it’s open Mondays and Saturdays only, from 11pm.

CASuAL HAngoutS The Irish Village (+971 4 282 4750) in Garhoud is a Dubai institution. The haunt of many a local (friendly) expat, the traditional interior opens out onto a large garden dotted with picnic tables.

Fibber Magee’s (+971 4 332 2400) is another local legend. Located behind a cluster of high-rise buildings near Crowne Plaza Hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road, Fibbers is open every day from 8am until 2am, with a generous daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm and busy calendar of beverage promotions.

Sports fans can let loose at the canalside Bridgewater Tavern (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, +971 4 414 6755), home to the biggest TV screens in the city. Plus, you can chill out in the sun at the al fresco Café Artois by Bridgewater Tavern terrace, which launched at the beginning of the month.

Located in Club Vista Mare, a bustling beachside boardwalk with seven licensed restaurants and bars on Palm Jumeirah, The Tap House (+971 4 514 3778) is a cool gastropub with industrial-chic décor, an impressive menu of craft hops and a dozen draughts on tap. Pull up a perch at the long bar, or sit outside on the terrace overlooking the waterfront, and ask the knowledgeable sommelier to recommend a tipple.

With a long copper bar, dark wood floors and exposed stonework shipped from Scotland, Copper Dog (taxi: Doubletree by Hilton JBR, +971 4 559 5355) recreates the cosy country atmosphere of the original Scottish Highlands pub. Patrons can choose from a broad menu of drams, craft hops and pub grub enjoyed to live music.

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#HOLIDAY

From gazing up at the awe-inspiring super structures to discovering some street art, your trip to Dubai will be packed with picture perfect moments. We share some of our favourite social media snaps of the city. Join in by using the hashtag #MyDubai

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4. Photo credit: @curiosityutopia Step outside the city and do a bit of bird spotting at Al Qudra Lakes.

5. Photo credit: @missyeslick Admire the street art dotted around Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood.

6. Photo credit: @thisisyanish Be brave and kick skydiving over Palm Jumeirah off your bucket list.

7. Photo credit: @lawrycook Golfers can swing into action at the emirate’s top golf courses.

8. Photo credit: @gncakl Art galleries and cultural attractions abound in the historical quarter.

9. Photo credit: @followyourarrow81 Sail along Dubai Creek to see old Dubai from a fresh perspective.

1. Photo credit: @iliana2405 Read while catching some rays thanks to the Beach Library at Kite Beach.

2. Photo credit: @fayebartle Follow the �in’ crowd to Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai.

3. Photo credit: @jamiepudsey Get a sneak peek of the upcoming Ain Dubai Ferris wheel.

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