Etihad Japan Guide by Hot Media

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

JAPAN

Eastern Promise

Japan is an immensely fascinating country, one that simply begs to be explored and enjoyed. It’s a country brimming with age-old tradition and customs yet one at the very forefront of the modern world. And, on an increasingly homogenized planet, it’s one of the few places where travellers from our region can experience a genuinely unique culture. Spanning four major islands, by the far the largest of which is Honshu, or ‘main island’, Japan’s population totals over 126 million. Tokyo is the capital, one of eight main cities in the country, and it’s home to nearly as many people as the other seven cities combined. About This Guide To celebrate the launch of Etihad Airways’ flights to Japan, this guide has been designed to give you a taste for the myriad experiences on offer in this remarkable country. Each chapter also provides detailed recommendations of places to visit in Tokyo and Nagoya, the two cities connected to the UAE via Etihad Airways. Nagoya is Japan’s industrial heartland and home to the country’s famous automotive industry, while Tokyo is a traveller’s paradise. A riot of sights, smell and sounds, it’s the perfect place to immerse yourself in the land of the rising sun.

CONTENTS

Nayoya

THE LOWDOWN – essential information for travellers plus a cultural briefing.

WHERE TO STAY – the pick of the finest hotels to stay at.

12 WHAT TO DO – all you need to plan the perfect travel agenda.

Tokyo

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16 WHERE TO SHOP – what to buy and where to buy it. 20 WHERE TO EAT – our expert’s guide to the must-try dishes and best restaurants.

Produced by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

GETTING THERE Etihad Airways operates a direct flight to Tokyo’s Narita airport five times a week and indirect flights to Nagoya, via Beijing, also five The need-to know basics for travel to Japan: how to get there, when to times a week. To book online go and what you’ll experience. visit etihadairTransport of the road. The majority of large destinations ways.com Japan is famed globally for its super-fast rail are signposted in English and Japanese, though

The lowdown service, Shinkansen, or ‘bullet train’ as it’s commonly known outside of Japan. These sleek, aerodynamic trains whisk passengers cross country at speeds approaching 300km an hour and have an enviable safety record. Another popular mode of transport is the subway system, which you’ll find in all of the country’s major cities. Taxis are plentiful but be sure to have a clear idea of where you’re going and, ideally, the name of your destination written down in Japanese. You’ll know a taxi is free to pick you up when it’s displaying a red light in the left corner of its windscreen. Alternatively, there are good-value bus services in all large cities, though journeys can often be long because of traffic congestion. If you want to hire a car and drive yourself, you will find recognised car rental firms within most cities and at airports. You’ll need to show an international driving license and be mindful that in Japan people drive on the left hand side 4

it’s advisable to buy a dual-language road atlas if you’re planning to drive across the country. Money The currency of Japan is the yen, represented by the ¥ symbol. Denominations of coins range from 1 to 500 and bank notes from 1,000 to 10,000 yen. At time of press, there were 90 yen to 1 US$.

Visas Visitors from certain countries can enter Japan without a visa and stay for periods that range from 14 days through to 6 months. Check with your nearest Embassy of Japan (a full list of embassies is available at jnto.go.jp) for details of these countries. If your country is not listed, you must obtain a ‘temporary visitor’s visa’ which you can apply for at the embassy. Time Tokyo is GMT + 9 hours.

WHEN TO GO HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF JAPAN’S FOUR DISTINCT SEASONS.

Etiquette In general, Japanese people are incredibly polite. It’s important to remember that they value their personal space and patience, so give them room and also time to respond to what you’ve said. Bowing is the most common way to respectfully greet someone and although locals do shake hands with non-Japanese people, they do not hug or kiss during a regular greeting Language Japanese is the only official language in Japan, though as English is taught in all of the country’s schools it’s widely understood. That said, it will be appreciated by locals if you make an effort to speak their language. Here are a few common words to set you on your way. Yes Hai No Lie Thank you Arigatou Good afternoon Kon’nichiwa

Winter: Nagano Thanks to its many mountains there are some superb slopes to try out in Japan, the best of which can be found on Honshu, the main island, where there are around 500 resorts. Head to the city of Nagano, which proved its snow credentials by staging the 1998 Winter Olympics, where you’ll find the outsized Hakuba Valley and its 200-plus runs.

Spring: Tokyo Japan’s capital city is the place to be when spring is in the air. That’s because from roughly the last week of March till the first week of April, you’ll see a blanket of pink where once there was green, as the falling cherry blossom covers the ground for as far as the eye can see. It’s a magical sight, one that tourists and locals alike never tire of seeing.

Summer: Sapporo Japan’s fifth largest city is its coolest in summertime. While a few weeks of rain heralds the arrival of summer almost everywhere else in Japan, Sapporo tends to escape the full force of this (often torrential) downpour, leaving you free to enjoy a warm summer – temperatures hit a maxium of 28c – amid green-tinged mountains and bright blue skies.

Autumn: Kyoto Mountains make up 70% of Japan’s landmass and the trees that line them are a blaze of browns, reds and yellows in autumn time. For a particularly fine spectacle, take a boat downstream along the Hozugawa River, the banks of which are lined with quite beautiful foliage. Kyoto is home to what are arguably the country’s most stunning landscapes. 5

Left and below: Tokyo’s striking street style.

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

Japan’s street style is quite unlike any other on earth. You could spend months walking around Milan, Paris, New York and London and encounter only a fraction of the ingenuity displayed by Tokyo’s youth.

On the streets of Tokyo’s Harajuku district (the nerve centre for the sartorial subculture), it isn’t unusual to see a girl in a white military uniform with neon orange hair and tear drops painted onto her face walking alongside a friend whose head is mostly hidden beneath a giant stuffed bear, her flirty tartan mini-skirt adding to the cute (or ‘Kawaii’) style many Harajuku girls favour. In fact, such bizarre sights are common. Peroxide pop star Gwen Stefani is such a fan of this unique style that she dedicated much of her 2004 album ‘Love. Angel. Music. Baby’ to it, capturing the imaginations of fashionistas the world over with her descriptions of the district’s ‘kalaiedoscope of fashion’ and ‘ping-pong match between eastern and western’. Indeed, although there are distinct schools of fashion within Harajuku, a key element is mixing high-end western pieces by the likes of Vivienne Westwood and L.A.M.B, with local couture designs and then customising with wild and absolute abandon. 6

The origins of Harajuku’s street fashion lie in the years just after WWII, when young people from rural areas flocked to the area to experience a different, more modern way of life. It soon became a hotspot for Tokyo’s designers and models and thereafter the Harajuku style prevalent in popular culture began to take shape. Nowadays, the fashion can roughly be divided into five categories: Kawaii, an ultra-girly look which originally developed as a form of resistance to the parental generation’s contrasting views of prettiness; Lolita, another cute look which juxtaposes Victorian-style frocks against ripped gothic twists; Ganguro which emulates the Californian stereotype – i.e. blonde and tanned; Cosplay, in which wearers dress in a favourite Manga character’s costume; and Ura-Hara – named after a district where hip-hop and graffiti inspire mostly male clothing choices. To catch a glimpse of this sartorial phenomenon, head to Tokyo’s Jingu Bridge on a Sunday – it has to be seen to be believed.

BIG IN JAPAN

JAPAN HAS GIVEN MUCH TO THE WORLD AT LARGE. HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS…

Capsule Rooms Forget five star finery – the capsule hotel sneers at such unnecessary fuss and instead offers somewhere for guests to simply lay their head, plus just about enough room for the rest of their body. Popular with businessmen who have missed the last train home, these capsules are formed of fibreglass and are the length of a person and only slightly wider and taller. They lie side by side and on top of one another – you reach the higher ones via a step ladder.

Manga Manga are comic books and are big business in Japan where they are popular with all ages (grandparents included) and both sexes. Their content varies from what you’d expect from a comic book (fantasy and action-adventure) to what you wouldn’t (business and commerce) and their popularity has since spread across the world. Qais Sedki’s ‘Gold Ring Volume 1’ is the first manga novel to be published in classical Arabic.

Karaoke Yes, you have the Japanese to thank for all the times you’ve suffered an assault to the eardrums while listening to a tone-deaf wannabe screech their way through ‘I Will Survive’. Karaoke was born in Japan in the early 1970s before lip-synching its way to Southeast Asia in the 1980s and the rest of the world thereafter. It’s still incredibly popular in Japan, especially Tokyo,where on any given night you’ll find karaoke rooms filled to the rafters.

Best of the Fest

Japan is a country that loves to celebrate and it hosts a huge number of festivals throughout the year. Our favourite, and that of two million others judging by the average attendance figure at the event, is the Sapporo Snow Festival. It lasts for seven days in February, during which time various locations in the city are crammed full of snow and ice sculptures, some of which are the size of small buildings. But it’s at night that the sculptures adopt a magical quality, when they’re all lit up by white lights.

Beyond sushi and sashimi Travelling to Japan gives you the chance to sample some less well-known, but nonetheless excellent, Japanese eating experiences. We asked Colin Clague, Executive Chef at the award-winning ZUMA in the UAE, for his recommendations. Shabu Shabu, a Japanese hot pot, is a definite must-try. It’s brought to your table as a simmering stock in a large pot, along with thinly sliced vegetables and wagyu beef, which you’ll dip into the stock and cook to your liking. The meat and vegetables are then removed from the stock and dipped in either a ponzu or sesame seed dressing, while the remaining stock is traditionally poured over noodles or boiled rice. It’s the complete meal. Soba, or buckwheat noodles, is another very popular food. It’s served in a variety of styles, either hot or cold, and is best eaten at a highend restaurant where the noodles are made by hand. If you’re feeling daring, try Fugu (puffer fish). Only highly-qualified and very skilled chefs work with this fish as it can be highly poisonous if it is not prepared correctly. It triggers a slight tingling sensation on your lips and is expensive, but it’s a real foodie experience. A feast-like style of eating to try is Kaiseki. You’ll be served a seemingly endless supply of small gourmet dishes, some of which will be presented in beautiful boxes, over the course of the full meal and although it’s expensive, it really is the very pinnacle of Japanese cuisine and must be experienced. And lastly, though we’ve all eaten fruit, Japan produces the best in the world bar none. The way they grow and take time over their fruit is an absolute marvel.

‘It’s all about the view at Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, which looms large over Nihonbashi’

Where to stay

Tokyo and Nagoya offer hotels galore, but our in-the-know experts have cherry picked the best of them to narrow down your choice. They’ve also scoured Japan for a few more exceptional abodes. Tokyo It’s rare to find a hotel that can serve the interests of both leisure and business guests to the same high standard, but the Mercure Hotel Ginza Tokyo (www.mercure.com) pulls this off with aplomb. It’s small, friendly and does the simple things well (the service is particularly noteworthy) to provide a real home from home. But its biggest draw is arguably its location; a stone’s throw from shop-strewn streets and close to a raft of other attractions. Be sure to spend an hour at the always-lively Tsukiji Fish Market, it’s the world’s largest and serves up a real assault on the senses – you’ll also find a well-connected subway station mere minutes from the lobby. Another hotel to benefit from its superb location in Akasaka is the ANA InterContinental Tokyo (www. anaintercontinental-tokyo.jp). Minutes from Kasumigaseki, where the government sits, it’s also in the vicinity of a bustling business district and close to a couple of swanky malls, the pick of which is the label-loaded Roppongi Hills in Roppongi, an area that springs into life after 8

sunset. The hotel itself is slick and modern, with recently refurbished rooms, a great concierge and amenities that include a spa and a true gem in the form of Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo, the superchef ’s inaugural restaurant in Japan. Our advice? Book a Club InterContinental suite, which grants you access to a terrific lounge. It’s all about the view at Mandarin Oriental Tokyo (www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo) which looms large over Nihonbashi, an area still known as the ‘centre of Japan’ for having long been the starting point of journeys made cross country. Rooms here are large, sleek and technology-laden, with walls of glass framing views of the city’s superb skyline. Elsewhere in the hotel you can drink in the scenery from a trio of Michelin-starred restaurants – our favouite being Tapas Molecular Bar, where over the course of two hours you’ll be served close to thirty, beautifully crafted bite-sized dishes – or a spa that’s often billed as the city’s best. Floor to ceiling windows are also prevalent at The Strings Tokyo (www.intercontinentalstrings.jp) where the neighboring Tokyo

Above left: View from the Mandarin Oriental. Above: ANA InterContinental Tokyo.

Conference Centre ensures a steady stream of business clientele slipping in and out of the hotel’s lively lobby. All rooms look out onto Tokyo Bay, with those on the executive club level serviced by a team of eager-to-please butlers and next to a lounge where you can snack on complimentary light bites. If you’re travelling with kids in tow, then the hotel is perfectly located for easy access to the everpopular Shinagawa Aquarium, where dolphin and sea lion shows are the order of the day. Park Hyatt Tokyo (www.tokyo.park.hyatt. com) shot to fame as the setting for scenes from Oscar-winning film ‘Lost in Translation’ and this slick, stylish hotel is more than worthy of the attention. It spans the top fourteen floors of Shinjuku Park Tower, a landmark in an area known as ‘Skyscraper City’ due to the fact that it houses Tokyo’s highest buildings. Rooms come in varying styles and sizes, though local art, Japanese artifacts and fine views are a feature of all – we recommend those with a direct view of Mount Fuji. If you have time, we also suggest picking up a gourmet hamper from the hotel’s superb deli and taking the short walk over to the haven-like Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, where from late March till early April the famous cherry trees will be in full bloom. From the same stable of hotels comes the Grand Hyatt Tokyo (www.tokyo.grand. hyatt.com), a luxurious abode in Roppongi, where the fashionable Ginza shopping district remains a big draw for visitors and locals alike. The hotel houses a fantastic spa that’s so popular that advance reservations are recommended the moment you check in, and large, high-ceiling rooms adorned with polished mahogany. You’ll also find the service here to be largely impeccable, especially at the in-house restaurants, one of which, Roku Roku, plucks its fish from the local market each morning to ensure its sushi and sashimi are superlative. A short distance from the Grand Hyatt Tokyo is the Ritz Carlton Tokyo (www.ritzcarlton. com), another hotel which is able to boast near faultless levels of service and attention to detail. But its biggest boast is its location: it fills the top nine floors of Tokyo’s tallest skyscraper, Midtown Tower, spoiling guests with unbroken views of the metropolis fanned out below. Rooms here are beautiful, fusing modern style with timeless elegance, and attractive artworks are dotted throughout. No less enticing for those on the lookout for an authentic Japanese dining experience is in-house restaurant Hinokizaka, a Michelin-starred eatery where you can dine in private within the confines of a

Left: Park Hyatt Tokyo. Below: The Strings Tokyo.

‘All rooms at ASK THE LOCAL The Strings LINDA BELTRAN LIVES AND WORKS Tokyo look out IN TOKYO, AT THE RITZ CARLTON in case your driver’s onto Tokyo Bay There is no tipping in Japan. If you try to English is limited, with those on though most hotels tip, you may find that you actually offend the hand out ‘taxi cards’ to the executive person you’re intending their guests which say, club level to please. As a result, in Japanese, something most prices already like ‘Take me to The serviced by a include a tax and Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo’. team of eagerYou’ll find the level service charge. When of service at hotels to a cab to your to-please butlers’ taking hotel it would help to be very thorough and have the hotel name written in Japanese,

polite.The Japanese are eager to please.

Below: ANA InterContinental Tokyo executive lounge. Right: Park Hotel Tokyo.

200-year-old Japanese tea house. In a similar vein style-wise is Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi (www.fourseasons. com/marunouchi). It’s housed within an eyegrabbing, glass-clad building at the heart of a business district and with only 57 rooms it is relatively boutique-sized in comparison to other brand name hotels in the city. Tailored for executives, the rooms are dressed to perfection and accommodate a large workstation and free standing bathtub, which adds a splash of eccentricity by looking out onto the streets below – the hotel likes to make the most of its all-glass façade. Guests can also enjoy a postmeeting massage in the small but peaceful spa. The Hilton Tokyo (www.hilton.com) recently took the wraps off a multi-million dollar facelift and instantly found favour with guests looking for spacious, unfussy rooms and a whole host of in-house amenities. The suites are particularly striking in size and booking one gives you access to a top-notch executive lounge, where drinks and tempting nibbles are dished out at regular intervals throughout the day: the breakfast is particularly good. If you fancy doing something out the ordinary while here, take a trip to the rooftop where you can play tennis amid the city’s skyscrapers. Do this at dusk for a sublime sight as the city lights up. Something out of the ordinary is also on the menu at Park Hotel Tokyo (www. parkhoteltokyo.com), where guests are 10

‘The ANA InterContinental Tokyo is slick and modern, with a great concierge and amenities that include a true gem in the form of Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo.’

encouraged to try their hand at flower arranging. Why? The hotel houses the Constance Spry Flower Salon, which has supplied floral arrangements to the British Royal Family since 1928, a fact of which the hotel is rightly proud. Rooms here are small but enjoy nice touches. We’re particularly fond of the hand-stuffed pillows which welcome weary heads and the fact that you can order an in-room massage to soothe you to sleep right up until 2am. It’s a great location for exploration – a brisk 10 minute walk from here are the upmarket stores which now define the Ginza district, while closer still are two subway stations and a plethora of decent coffee shops and eateries. Over at Hotel Okura (www.okura.com/ tokyo) the unique draw is the Okura Museum of Art, which is connected to the hotel via a path from the lobby. It’s home to over 2,000 works and 35,000 volumes, some of which are certified national treasures. The collection is owned by the hotel’s founder, Kishichiro Okura, whose eye for finery is evident in the hotel’s understated, traditional style. For a real taste of local culture, head to the beautiful Choshoan Tea Room on the hotel’s seventh floor (better still, bag the room next door as the views from this floor are fantastic) for an authentic tea ceremony which you can enjoy while looking out onto the rooftop winding river garden. A serene experience.

Elsewhere in Japan

5 COOL PLACES TO REST YOUR HEAD

Nagoya Close to the heart of downtown Nagoya and just a short drive from the airport stands ANA Hotel Grand Court Nagoya (www.grandcourt. co.jp). Its comfortable, amenity-laden rooms are perfect for businessmen seeking great value and a convenient base from which to head out to the city. It’s also home to a good selection of restaurants. If you can find time for a spot of sightseeing, take a trip to the historically-rich Nagoya Castle – a 15 minute taxi ride from the hotel – while closer still is the magnificent Nagoya/Boston Museum of Fine Arts. A brief stroll from where the bullet train drops passengers into Nagoya stands the Sofitel The Cypress Nagoya (www.sofitel.com), where you’ll find large modern rooms – standard-sized rooms in Japan tend to be on the small side compared to those in the Middle East, so a large, good value room is a real find – attentive, eager-to-please staff and a great choice of cafes, restaurants and shops nearby. In the same area stands the Hilton Nagoya (www.hilton.com), a large, smart hotel chockfull of high-standard amenities which include six restaurants, one of which specialises in tasty, low-calorie dishes. It’s a hotel that’s very welcoming to families, with kids’ menus available in the restaurants and activities laid on throughout the year. There’s also a fair-sized playground. Grown up guests can divide their leisure time between tennis and swimming or kicking back in the rather nice solarium. Offering the same high standard of comfort and service is the Nagoya Tokyu Hotel (www. tokyuhotelsjapan.com), where you can get a great massage and some mighty fine, if expensive, Japanese food. Though if you’re in the mood to splurge some cash, we recommend a stay in the Nagoya Marriott Associa Hotel (www.marriott.com). This monster-sized property packs in 17 restaurants and a list of services that read as long as your arm. There are no rooms below the 20th floor, so guests get a bird’s eye view of Nagoya – look out for the magnificently designed Nagoya Castle - and the service levels are as good as any you’ll encounter in Japan. Excellent.

Imperial Osaka (www.imperialhotel. co.jp) Old school opulence is the defining theme of this Osaka landmark, where super-sized rooms look across the Yodogawa river and out to what is the world’s largest Ferris wheel. While here, be sure to visit the surreal Amerika Mura, a district entirely based on an American neighbourhood, where the teenagers even dress like their US counterparts.

Asaba Ryokan (www.onsen-academy. ne.jp) For an incomparable

stay, why not try a ryokan? These are traditional Japanese inns, where guests leave their shoes at the entrance, don a kimono and take regular baths in a hot spring (onsen). Instead of a bed you’ll sleep on a futon. There are ryokans aplenty in Japan, but this one in Shuzenji offers zen-like serenity and fabulous food.

Niki Club & Spa (www.nikiclub.jp) Another retreat from the bright lights of Japan’s big cities can be found in the dense mountains of northern Honshu. The Niki Club, all wood and glass guest rooms amid winding paths and bridges in wonderful woodland, features the design talents of Terence Conran and a rather brilliant spa. Hyatt Regency Kyoto (www.kyoto.regency.

hyatt.com) In the heart of Kyoto this extremely smart hotel offers guests an authentic slice of Japanese style. The beds have headboards fashioned from kimono fabrics and lampshades formed of washi paper. Such authenticity extends to the in-house spa, where the Japanese treatments are a must-try. InterContinental Yokohama Grand (www.ichotelsgroup. com) Standing proud over Yokohama Bay, this magnificent property is shaped like a sail (sound familiar?) and offers some truly wonderful suites clad in fabrics created by big name designers. Revel in femininity in those dressed by Laura Ashley, or if you’re feeling daring, book a bold, bright Etro suite.

Left: High culture at Kabuki-za. Below: Sumo wrestlers, wishes on a traditional tablet at Meiji Jingu.

What to do

Tokyo is a city that you experience as opposed to simply visit. Ensure you get the best of it and Japan’s industrial heartland, Nagoya, by following in the footsteps of our on-the-ground experts. Tokyo Tokyo is not a sightseeing city, or at least not in the classic sense. If you want to see historical buildings, tranquil, zen gardens and Geishas clip-clopping through cobbled streets, the best place you can head to in Tokyo is the Shinjuku station – Kyoto is your place for that side of Japan. The 20th century robbed Japan of its sights through earthquakes and bombing raids, but it is as if the city has ramped up every area to compensate and the gigantic barking screens, alien smells and seemingly constant movement mean that every corner hums with activity and excitement. From the futuristic landscapes of Odaiba or Roppongi Hills, to the bustling entertainment centres of Shibuya and Shinjuku – with great swathes of neon in between – there may not be much to see, but there’s plenty to experience. The first rule of exploring Tokyo is to ditch the GPS. Getting lost is the first step to falling in love with this city, and there’s no app for that. Pick a corner of the city, let your feet follow your ever-expanding eyes and flit from side 12

street to grand thoroughfare gathering stories on route. If you do get lost, there’s no need to panic. With low street crime and two fantastic interlocking subway systems you’ll be back at your hotel safe and sound in no time. A good place to start is Shinjuku. Chances are this is the Japan of your imagination – it’s the go-to neon backdrop when Hollywood comes to Tokyo and the city’s most cosmopolitan corner. The area is divided into two distinct districts, with the station smack bang in the middle. West Shinjuku is where Tokyo goes to work, before moving east after dark to play. The start of a Shinjuku weekday is a photo opportunity in itself. The station is the busiest in the world and you can see a sea of 250,000-plus people flood out every morning, and be crammed into trains by uniformed guards every night. The reason for this daily squash is that West Shinjuku is home to most of the city’s skyscraping office blocks which make for great eye candy. Heading east you can see the height of buildings dropping and feel inhibitions following suit. The area has been famed for its nightlife since Edo times, and

‘To understand how Japan arrived at this curious brand of modernity you need to visit Ueno Park and its plethora of museums’

Left: Drummers play on a Tokyo street. Below: Tsukiji Fish Market

today Tokyo’s, mostly male, post-work crowds scuttle between the rabbit warrenish Golden Gai area, the movie houses on the corner of Kabukicho and the sensory-assaulting pachinko parlours (Japanese pinball arcades). South of Shinjuku is Meiji Jingu and its surrounding tranquil gardens. A fine example of the Shinto style of architecture, the Jingu is not as old as it seems. Built in 1920, it was destroyed by Allied bombing in 1945 but rebuilt with private donations in the late fifties. The building is within the usually tranquil Yoyogi Park (the exception being New Year’s Day when over three million people descend to celebrate) studded with wooden gates. The Meiji Treasure House and its portraits of every Japanese emperor of the last millennium is nearby. Just a couple of steps to the south and you can walk yourself bang up to date. The southern side of the park along with the bordering Harajuku area are hangouts of choice for some of Tokyo’s more outlandish teen tribes. On any given Sunday you can catch Japanese teddy boys putting on a rockabilly show as girls done up like space age Sioux whoop their appreciation and a man in a surgical mask performs the most outlandish feats with a pair of nunchaku. The spectacle is quite brilliant and continues down Takeshita Dori where, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can pick out an outlandish outfit or two for yourself. An entirely different teen scene can be found in Shibuya. This fashion-conscious district is playground of the gyaru – backcombed girls who could style consult Lady Gaga – hip hoppers, clubbers and trendies. You can see them squeeze in amongst straight-laced businessmen and every other facet of Japanese society on Hachiko - the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing - daily. People-watching in Shibuya is second to

ASK THE LOCAL

MUTSUKO AKESAKA LIVES IN OSAKA AND WORKS IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY. If you’re heading to Tokyo for the first time, the top three places I’d recommend you to visit are the Tsukiji Fish Market, the magnificent Imperial Palace and the Asakusa Cannon. Outside of Tokyo, you should definitely take a trip to Kyoto, our ancient capital. It has many beautiful buildings, gardens and old houses and remains a favourite destination of the Japanese. I love it there.

none: the folks milling around Centre Gai and the warren of streets that crisscross it combine to form a glorious human tapestry. To understand how Japan arrived at this curious brand of modernity you need to visit Ueno Park and its plethora of museums. It’s also a prime cherry blossom spot in May. If you only have time to do one museum make it Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum, 3-1 Kitanomaru-koen Chiyoda, 03-3214-2561/www.tnm.go.jp) – this 25-room smash and grab on Japanese history is the country’s largest and oldest museum and features close to 90,000 items, although the rotation policy means they aren’t all on show at any one time. The complex can swallow hours, but be sure to save time for the Ukiyo-e woodblock prints, kaleidoscopic kimonos and the elaborate armoury and weapons in the main Honkan Gallery. The Toyokan space next door is the place for non-Japanese Eastern art and the museum’s newest wing, Heiseikan, was purpose-built to host major temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found on the TNM website. If you haven’t succumbed to artefact fatigue, then the Shitamachi Museum (2-1 Ueno-koen, Taito-ku, 03-3823-7451) is a fun stop with faux Edo era shops and displays of toys, tools and snaps, as is the National Science Museum (-20 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku. 03-822-0111/www. kahaku.go) and its dinosaur skeletons.

Clockwise from top left: Tokyo’s Imperial Palace, cherry blossom, Nagoya Castle, Tokyo National Museum.

Take yourself back to the future in Ginza – the aptly-named silver place is home to many of the city’s very plushest shops, cafés and restaurants. The area’s deserved reputation for exclusivity stretches right back to the 19thcentury Meiji period, when Ginza became Japan’s first red brick district. Sadly, like the wooden buildings that preceded it, the scarlet stonework has been lost to history swallowed up by the great Kanto earthquake. The strollers on Ginza’s wide streets are on another planet from the zany zeitgeist of Shibuya and Harajuku – Prada replaces panda eyes and suits as sharp as lemons are de rigueur. Ginza isn’t all labels and liposuction though – the art scene is superb, window shopping in the area’s galleries is a treat and high culture is served up nightly at the Kabuki-za (4-12-15 Ginza Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone: 03-3541-3131), Tokyo’s principal theatre. You can’t have pearls without grit, and on the northern side of the railway tracks you’ll find rows of Izakaya, which can be a welcome prick to the pretension. Japan does sport spectacularly and if you 14

have time, and are visiting in season, then a trip to a baseball game or, better still, a sumo tournament, is a sensory pleasure for the most committed sport-dodger. Sumo tournaments last 15 days and are held in January, May and September at the 10,000 seat Kokugikan (National Studio Stadium) (1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku). But if your trip doesn’t coincide with a bout don’t despair, as you may be able to watch these man mountains train at the beya (sumo stables) around Ryogoku. Most are open to the public, but don’t eat, talk loudly or take photos – you don’t want 250 plus pounds of angry flesh charging at you. Tokyo has a habit of eating up your time. No matter how long you have, your first visit will never be enough and chances are you’ll leave feeling you have yet to fully understand the city and see everything it has to offer. But the bleeding edge art of 21_21 Design Sight (9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03-3475-2121/ www.2121designsight.jp), the soothing Imperial Palace Gardens (Chiyoda, Chiyoda-ku) and Asakusa Senso-ji will have to wait till next time.

‘Nagoya is Japan’s industrial heart and the commercially curious can take a tour of a number of factories’

Nagoya Pleasant, convenient and easily negotiable, Nagoya is a far more manageable city than Tokyo’s mega metropolis. Despite its small town feel, it is still Japan’s fourth-largest city and its transport hub. The city is best explored with the aid of a one day bus-and-subway pass. Let it take you to the grand Nagoya-jo (4-15-23 Sakae, Naka-ku, 052231-1700). The castle was built by Tokugawa Ieyasu in the early 1600s, but sadly it was destroyed during the ferocious bombing raids the city endured in WWII. Purists may sniff at the reinforced concrete replica that now stands on the site, but it’s well worth a visit. The museum is home to treasures, tools and armouries of the Oda, Toyotomi and Tokugawa families and the top floor observatory has the city’s best vistas. Take tea in the Ninomaru-en Garden before jumping on a bus to Nagoya’s other must-see – the Tokugawa Art Museum (1017 Tokugawacho, Higashi-ku, 052-935-6262). A treasure trove time caspule from the Edo period and earlier, the museum’s top draws are its calligraphy and ceramic collections and an illustrated scroll of The Tale Of Genji that dates from the 12th century and is displayed every November. Nagoya is Japan’s industrial heart and the commercially curious can take a tour of a number of factories. The best of the lot is a stroll around Toyota City (3-60 Nishimachi, Toyotashi, Aichi-ken, 0565-28-2121), east of the city centre. Tours last two hours and take place at 11am weekdays. Use one of Toyota’s finest, or a train should you prefer, to explore Nagoya’s surrounding Kiso valley, seemingly built for day trips. Gujo-Hachiman is a small, but perfectly formed, town surrounded by mountains and cut-up by rivers, Narai is a well-preserved post town and time stops completely at Tsumago – where cars are banned and cables are buried completely. It may not have the profile of Tokyo or Kyoto, but Nagoya has more to offer than the airport. Although, what an airport it is – with demos of the latest robotics and its own bathhouse, complete with views of the runway, thankfully through mirrored glass. You won’t want to leave when your flight is called.

Elsewhere in Japan

5 UNMISSABLE EXPERIENCES for climbing in July and August, but the less adventurous can take in the view from the theme park environment at the base or one of the surrounding five lakes – Lake Sai being the cleanest. Architectural tours of Kyoto With sloping roofs, perfect gardens and Geishas gliding down cobbled streets, Kyoto has what many Westerners are looking for from a trip to Japan. The imperial capital between 794 and 1868, the city is now home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites. See Mount Fuji and the Five Lakes Japan’s talismanic highest peak, Mount Fuji has drawn visitors for millennia to see its near perfect cone – ideally floating snow-capped above a bed of fluffy white cloud. The mountain is open

Skiing in Hokkaido Japan only caught on to skiing in the fifties, but has made up ground fast. The ski resorts of Honshu can get horribly crowded – better to head for Hokkaido where the powder is perfect and the crowds, while not exactly sparse, are more manageable. Pottery tours of Kyushu Off the beaten track, and all the better for it, Kyushu

– the third largest of Japan’s islands – has plenty to offer. The volcanic landscapes are stunning, but the real draw is its ceramics, and the Saga prefecture – where the three main pottery towns, Arita, Imari and Karatsu have been producing pots for half a millennium – will really test your flight home weight limit.

Diving in Okinawa In Japan’s southernmost - and the country’s only subtropical - area, Okinawa’s islands are a beguiling mix of Bali-esque beauty and Japanese culture and cuisine. The turquoise sea is punctured with stunning clumps of coral teeming with tropical fish, making the diving here the best in Japan.

Left: The bright lights of Shinjuku. Below: Akihabara at night.

Where to shop

Shoppers will find a huge range of choice in Japan - from ultramodern malls in the big cities to superb handcrafts (don’t leave without picking up some Kyushu pottery) in the countryside. Tokyo Shopping in Tokyo is a pastime, obsession and way of life. Consumerism is by no means a dirty word and whether it’s designer goods, rare records, Manga collectables or must-have gizmos that you crave, there’s a shopping district for you. Before you dive in, there are a handful of things to bear in mind. Tokyo is not a cheap city and you aren’t going to find many bargains on these crowded streets. Electronics are particularly expensive and perversely enough many Japanese brands are actually cheaper outside of the country. Still, Japan gets it first and if you want to see into the future, Akihabara (also known as ‘electric town’), is the place to head – although if you go beyond windowshopping, take care to ensure that the gadgets are compatible with the electrical supply in your home country. Buying clothing in Japan can be problematic if you are anything above super thin and on the short side. Clothes are smaller overall, with sleeve-length being particularly on 16

the un-generous side. Things are changing slowly, particularly in the trendier, more internationally-focused stores, but don’t feel too depressed if you end up taking home an XXL. The mega malls have landed in Tokyo, changing the way the Japanese like to shop. The two kingpins are Midtown and Roppongi Hills, both of which draw hordes of shoppers out to the previously slightly downmarket district of Roppongi. Even outside of these colossaplexes, Japanese department stores manage to tick a remarkable number of boxes – offering ticket agencies, currency exchanges and gourmet food courts. Department store layouts tend to be fairly standardised, with food stores and stalls in the basement, cosmetics on the first floor (the Japanese don’t use the term ‘ground floor’) and restaurants on the top floor. Between them come fashion, luggage, stationery, kitchenware, electronics, textiles and art and craft offerings. Start your shopping tour in Ginza, the beating heart of Tokyo’s consumer culture. The eight-block area is home to over 10,000

‘If you want to see into the future, Akihabara (also known as ‘Electric Town’), is the place to head’

shops including the flagships of big brands such as Chanel, Maison Hermès and Mikimoto. They are all seemingly in a constant game of one-upmanship, trying to outdo each other with their increasingly outlandish facades. The babbling screens and gold wash may be gaudy, but they’re effective, drawing in the city’s gold card-holders like moths to neon. Even if you’re not out to splash the cash, the area has plenty to offer, with smaller crafts shops lining the backstreets. The wide streets are perfect for window shoppers, but if you really value your personal space then visit after noon on weekends – cars are banned from main street Chuo Dori leaving room for the serious shoppers. The first particular highlight to watch out for is Mitsukoshi, Japan’s oldest chain store, whose history dates back as far as 1673. The Ginza store (4-6-16 Ginza, Chuo-ku, 03-3562-1111) offers 12 floors of wares, making it brilliant for browsing. You should also make sure to visit Wako, whose talismanic clock tower façade has become Ginza’s trademark. The store, one of Ginza’s most prestigious, stands on the junction of Chuo and Harumi Dori. While the rich go to Ginza, most mere mortals settle for Shinjuku, whose department stores are still luxurious, but not as elitist. The first place to check out is Don Quixote, or Donki to its regulars, a bargain-seekers palace that encourages you to roll up your sleeves and delve in. There’s little logic to the layout, and electrical goods, toys and all manner of foodstuffs are thrown together seemingly at random. Still, that’s half the fun. There are branches across Japan, but the Shinjuku store (1-16-5 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku, 03-52919211/www.donki.com) is the best. Tokyo’s hippest department store, Isetan, (14-1, Shinjuku 3chome, Shinjuku, 03-33521111/www.isetan.co.jp), now occupies eight buildings in the neighbourhood. Thankfully both the menswear and womenswear departments carry larger sizes for those who find Japanese measurements a little snug. Finally, while you’re in Shinjuku, don’t miss out on a trip to Otakibashi Dori, which has a clutch of specialist record stores. The shopping scenes of Roppongi and Marunouchi are dominated by Tokyo’s two mini cities of spending – Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown. Roppongi Hills revolutionised Tokyo’s shopping scene when it opened in 2003. The shopping and entertainment complex has over 200 shops and restaurants, a hotel (the

ASK THE LOCAL

BROOKE JOHNSON HAS BEEN A REPORTER IN TOKYO FOR THE LAST FIVE YEARS.

Top right: High-end shopping in Ginza Above: Shinjuku.

I love shopping in Japan - on every trip you’ll find something weird and wonderful. When it comes to paying, cash is the easiest option – although chip and pin cards are becoming increasingly popular. When paying you’ll sometimes be offered

a small tray, into which you should place your money or card – a shopkeeper will be very reluctant to take cash from your hand, as it’s a sign of greed. Haggling only occurs in flea markets – attempts to negotiate prices within a store are likely to cause offence.

Below: The glitzy Prada store. Right: A shopping mall at dusk (both Ginza).

Grand Hyatt), a multiplex, a TV studio, a gallery (the excellent Mori Art Museum) and Tokyo City View, Tokyo’s best observation deck (6-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku, 03-6406-6000/ www.roppongihills.com). Tokyo Midtown (9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, 03-3475-3114/www.tokyo-midtown.com) also has an impressive array of shops and restaurants (over 300 of them), an art space (20_20 Design Sight), a hotel (The Ritz Carlton Tokyo) and tall tower (albeit without the viewing platform). The main difference is a more logical layout, meaning you are unlikely to get as lost as you will when you’re out walking in the Hills. Harajuku (along neighbouring Shibuya) is the epicentre of the Tokyo teen scene. Here you’ll find the outlandish, the daring and the downright crazy. Takeshita Dori and Cat Street are the focal points - these narrow pedestrianised lanes of clothes shops and crepe stands are a solid mass of well-dressed humanity at weekends. In the rest of the neighbourhood things become a little more civilised with international stores and a clutch of malls. If you are looking for gifts, the basement of the Hanae Mori building (Hanae Mori Building, 3-6-11 Kita Aoyama, 03 423 1448) is a souvenir hunter’s paradise with more than 30 antique shops hawking everything from Echizen-ware vases to Woodblock prints. 18

‘While the rich go to Ginza, most mere mortals settle for Shinjuku, whose department stores are still luxurious, but not as elitist’

A great one-stop souvenir shop, Oriental Bazaar (Oriental Bazaar, 5-9-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, 03 33400-3933) can get a little kitschy in places, but the sheer volume of kimonos, chopsticks and yukata means there are diamonds amongst the more touristy items. After picking up some knickknacks, move on to RIN (3-6-26, Kita-aoyama, Minato-ku, 03-6418-7020/www.rin.smrj.go.jp), a concept store which brings the best of rural Japan to a corner of Kita-aoyama. Goods are sourced from artisans across all of Japan’s islands and items initially sell for two weeks, with the most popular staying and the others making way for new arrivals. Upstairs there’s a great café that offers sells foodstuffs from around the country. Finally, no shopping trip to Tokyo is complete without a visit to Shibuya. A fast, fun and affordable part of town, it caters for all tastes: there’s Hanchiko, the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing; Centre Gai, a small street that serves as a catwalk for Tokyo’s teen trendsetters; arts centres and malls to suit any colour of credit card. While you’re here, make sure to pop in to Tokyu Hands (12-18 Udagawa-cho, Shibuyaku, 03-5489-5111/www.tokyu-hands.co.jp) - the largest household goods store in Japan, it has plenty for the curious visitor. The place is packed with knickknacks, stationery, luggage, bikes, t-shirts, toys and games, all at excellent value prices.

Nagoya Two huge malls, Central Park, beneath Sakae station, and JR Tower, dominate Nagoya’s shopping scene. The Tower Plaza sits atop the world’s biggest train station and houses Nagoya’s outpost of the Takashimaya department store dynasty, plus a great food court. Central Park (Izumi 1-23-36, 052-961-6111/www. centralpark.co.jp) goes the other way, burrowing underground to create a subterranean store. If you are after more traditional fare, head for the Osu Shopping Arcade (Banshoji and Niomon, www.osu.co.jp). This al fresco shopping spot is the best place in town for new and second-hand kimonos, pottery and toys. The food wing, with its green tea, soup stock and cookies, is on hand should you find your energy levels dipping. Sony has chosen Nagoya to take on Apple’s concept stores with their new Sony Shop, which opened in March. The store shows off the company’s latest gizmos alongside their existing phones, cameras and computers. A Bathing Ape (3-24-13 Sakae Naka-Ku, 052-242-3301), is another big out-of-Japan brand with a strong foothold in Nagoya. Started by the none-more-hip DJ Nigo in ’93, Bape remains at the cutting edge some 15 years on. At the other end of the street, both figuratively and literally, is Kamino-ondo (adjacent to the Main gate of Atsuta Grand Shrine, 052-6712810). This old-school paper shop produces each immaculate sheet by hand - beautiful. A shopping experience worth driving out of the city for, Arimatsu Shibori is one of the 53 stage towns of the Tokaido Highway. Tie-dyed silks are the town’s speciality; and the streets are lined with stores selling delicate kimonos and shiboris – dappled clothes first created for travellers along the old highway, but now popular far further afield.

Elsewhere in Japan

5 BRILLIANT SOUVENIRS

Kimonos Like porcelain, styles of kimono, the traditional Japanese robe, vary greatly from region to region. A new top-of-the-range designer kimono can set you back up to ¥1 million, but it will probably outlive you. This extreme durability can work in favour of those who are unwilling to pay quite this much - you can pick up a second hand but first class kimono from a flea market in Japan for a fraction of the original price. A yukata (a cotton bathrobe) is another sensible compromise – at around ¥3,500 they are more affordable than a kimono proper. Ceramics Japan’s pottery and ceramics are famed for their delicacy and exquisite, complex

decoration. Each prefecture has its own distinct style, but true collectors should head to the south of the country and Kyushu where the three main pottery towns, Arita, Imari and Karatsu have been producing pots for half a millennium.

Ukiyo-e prints Most people’s go-to style when they think of Japanese art, Ukiyo-e is a type of wooden block print. Literally translated as ‘pictures of the floating world’, Ukiyo-e are usually characterised by vivid colours, floating lines and ethereal scenes. Tourist shops stock reprints of popular past masters, but it is far more interesting to seek out an original by a lesser-known blocker, which will cost you somewhere between ¥3,000 and ¥50,000.

Ningyo Japanese dolls, or Ningyo, are objects of decoration rather than play. The most desirable dolls come from Kyoto and are known as kyo-ningyo and are exquisitely detailed with coiffured hair and silk minikimonos. Washi Japanese paper, or Washi, has been produced for over 1,000 years. Regarded as the finest paper in the world, it is made from shredded kouzo bark, water and hollyhock root and is increasingly being used to create stylish wallets, notebooks and lampshades. Kyoto and Hokuriko are the birthplaces, but you’ll find a paper shop in nearly every major city, including both Tokyo and Nagoya.

‘You are almost guaranteed to enjoy some of the greatest meals of your life in Tokyo’

Where to eat

There are few nations on earth where you’ll eat as well as you do in Japan. Not only is the food exquisitely tasty, it’s also exceptionally healthy – don’t be surprised if your trip leaves you slimmer. Tokyo With around 160,000 restaurants, more Michelin stars than anywhere else on the planet and food so fresh you half expect it to excuse itself and head for the door, eating in Tokyo is a treat. You are almost guaranteed to enjoy some of the greatest meals of your life in Tokyo – the only down side is that your wallet may well remember them for even longer than your tastebuds. Restaurants can be expensive and while it’s certainly worth saving up for an extravagant evening treat, it is always worth checking the menus outside even a seemingly innocuous lunch spot before taking a seat. There is little to identify expensive eateries from their cheaper counterparts and you can easily leave a light lunch ¥10,000 lighter yourself. With the exception of shokudo (general eateries identified by deceptively unappetising plastic food outside) and izakaya (traditional casual eating and drinking stations), restaurants tend to specialise in Japanese niches such as tempura, oden-ya (hotpot) or unagiya (charcoal-grilled eel). Japan’s restaurateurs tend 20

not to have the geographical snobbery of their Western counterparts and it is not unusual for stunning restaurants to be situated in mall basements or on the top of seeminglyempty residential buildings. Once inside though, the invariably immaculate interiors and culinary delights will transport you to another world. If you’re looking for fine dining, check out Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo (Pierre Gagnaire, ANA InterContinental, 1-12-33 Akasaka 03-35059505). Gagnaire is the latest Michelin-toting celebrity chef to come to Tokyo, and he’s done so in real style – taking over the 36th floor of the plush ANA InterContinental in Akasaka. Gagnaire, who has three Michelin stars, will personally design and launch a series of seasonal menus, each of which will stick to his signature style of serving multiple dishes within each course. With spectacular views to boot, Tokyo’s newest dining spot is the city’s hottest table. When it comes to fushion, head for Dazzle (Mikimoto Ginza 2 8/9F, 2-4-12 Ginza, Chuoku 03-5159-0991). If the first bite really is

Top: Ten-ichi Below: Nodaiwa.

Right: Nodaiwa. Below: Pierre Gagnaire.

ASK THE LOCAL ATSUKO SHIMIZU LIVES AND WORKS IN NAGOYA Eating out in Japan is very popular and the cuisine is very varied. You’ll naturally want to try some of the wonderful sushi while you’re in the country but please beware – if you’ve grown accustomed to eating sushi outside of Japan you may well be a little

with the eye, then this place lays on a banquet before you’ve even taken your seat. You enter this flamboyant eatery by walking through an open kitchen and entering a pitch black lift which opens its doors onto a cavernous dining room adorned with chains of lights, silk drapes and a gigantic, glass-fronted cellar. Thankfully the adventurous fusion food can hold its own against the awesome setting. One of Tokyo’s most charismatic eating spots, Robata (1-3-8 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. 03-3591-1905) is a low-key gem in opulent Ginza. Tucked beneath the railway tracks, this wooden-decked treasure oozes charm. Freshly prepared dishes are displayed on the huge counter and you can pick and mix from the FarEast-meets-West offerings. Save room for the catch of the day – the fish arrives perfectly fried in a delicious apricot sauce. Meanwhile, if your idea of tempura is a heavy batter that overpowers all that it touches, Ten-ichi (6-6-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. 033571-1949) is here to save you. The chefs at this incredible restaurant, which attracts celebrities

‘Pierre Gagnaire is the latest Michelin-toting celebrity chef to come to Tokyo, and he’s done so in real style’

shocked at how hot the wasabi served with it is. It’s not served on the side, as it is in other countries, but as a part of the sushi itself. If you aren’t a fan of spicy food, you should ask for your sushi to be prepared in ‘sabinuki’ style – meaning ‘without wasabi’.

and statesmen alike, show an incredibly light touch. Their batter enhances rather than obliterates the super-fresh ingredients that it touches and the experience is a greaseless revelation. One word of waning – frying this fine doesn’t come cheap. An ‘only in Japan’ place if ever there was one, Ninja (Akasaka Tokyu Plaza 1F, 2-14-3 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. 03-5157-3936) does away with regular waiters and replaces them with, you guessed it, black-clad warriors of the night. These service-minded shinobis sneak up on you out of the dark, serving drinks and whisking plates in the blink of an eye. The result is an hilarious evening that will have every member of the family laughing so hard they may choke on their sushi. Not many non-French restaurants go on to conquer Paris, but Nodaiwa (1-5-4 HigashiAzabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo. 03-3583-7852) is an eatery less ordinary. The recipe for their perfect unagi (eel) has been passed down through five generations and still has the power to dazzle two centuries from its creation. The original eel 21

Right: Part of a Kaiseki feast. Below: sushi.

house retains its rustic charm, while offshoots have sprung up across the city and abroad. Try the back-to-basics shirayaki, grilled without any added sauce and eaten with a dash of wasabi. Meanwhile, located within the famous Tsukiji fish market, it’s no surprise that Tsukiji Sushi-sei (4-13-9 Tsukiji, Tokyo. 03-3541-7720) has a reputation for the very freshest and finest sushi. The selection is staggering – it has to be when you consider most of the patrons are fishmongers themselves – but every piece delivers. There are now over 30 branches, including one in New York, but the original – still standing after 110 years – cannot be beaten. Although Japanese and Western cuisine rule the Tokyo scene, there are some excellent examples of other Eastern restaurants to be found. Shinichi-kan (2-28-13 Kabukicho, Takyo. 03-3209-8426) is one such place. A Korean barbeque par excellence, this lowlit pleasure makes paying to cook your own dinner seems like a good idea. Diners gather together over special tables that house charcoal barbeques, on which they place perfect strips of Japanese beef. While sushi and tempura tend to be the non-Japanese idea of far eastern fare, hotpots are what the locals really love to eat, particularly in winter. En (42F Shiodome City Center 1-5-2 Higashi-shinbashi, 03-5537-2096) is a very

‘For something really healthy, head for Mominoki House, whose rabbit warren interior has been home to great macrobiotic meals for over 30 years’

modern take on a traditional idea. Their famous stock is made using bonito flakes and bubbles away on a gas burner on many a table. Into this soup goes free range chicken, mushrooms and other vegetables – the result really is chicken soup for the soul. The restaurant is on the 42nd floor, some 200 metres up, which means incredible views. If you’re looking for some authentic noodles, head to Kanda Yabu Soba (2-10 Awajicho, Chiyoda-ku; 03-3251-0287), a haven of calm amongst the bustle of Marunouchi, which has held Tokyo’s noodle crown since 1880. Tucked away in its own garden, this is a traditional place where the best experience is had by slipping off your shoes and sinking into deliciously warming bowls of seiro (soba served in a steamer). The buckwheat flavour is delicate, but addictive – especially when accompanied by some succulent duck or delicate tempura. Finally, for something really healthy, head for Mominoki House (2-18-5 Jingumae, 03-340591144), whose rabbit warren interior has been home to great macrobiotic meals for over 30 years. A firm believer in the adage ‘you are what you eat’, chef Yamada only uses fresh organic produce and ionised water and this dedication to nature means the menu changes weekly with whatever is available. No matter what’s in season you can trust Yamada to cook a perfect dinner and he even offers cooking lessons for true converts.

Nagoya If you’re looking for a stylish Japanese atmosphere and local specialties, try Hanabi (9-15 Tsubaki-cho, Nakamura-ku, 453-0015). It’s a warm, welcoming spot where you can try some of the city’s key dishes, like hitsumabushi (fillets of soy-marinaded, char-cooked eel), alongside lovely Kishimnen udon noodles, misoyaki grills, Agedashi tofu and Ebisen with chili. The building is from the ’20s and is beautifully decorated in the local style: it’s a great place for a lazy, long-drawn-out dinner. While you’re in Japan you have to try the world-famous beef – and Nagoya Bakuro Ichidai (Astrale Meieki 2F 2-41-10 Meieki, Nakamura-ku, 450-0002) is the place to try it. Located near exit 1 of Nagoya Station, this spot specialises in ultra-tender Hida steaks, supplied by specialist farmers from the Gifu prefecture. Don’t miss out on the beef simmered in ginger and the wonderful chateaubriand. Another excellent option is Kaguraya Sasuke (1-10-6 Higashi Sakura, Naka-ku, 461-0005), set in an old Japanese house with a lovely view out over an immaculate garden. This place specialises in seafood, poultry and Mie beef: try the catch of the day cooked with sansho pepper and pickles, the tender Ise chicken wrapped in egg and served with soup stock and the delicious ‘mouth-sized’ steak. You shouldn’t leave Nagoya without a trip to a Robata spot – check out local favourite Teshigoto-ya (3-24-7 Mei-eki, Nakamura-ku, 450-0002). This is the place for a proper, filling feed: order grilled kebabs, teppan-cooked beef, special recipe fried potatoes, miso-infused cutlets and ‘habit-forming’ deep fried chicken wingtips. If you’re not too full, move on to pepper-roasted Japanese spare rib cooked over Bincho charcoal and some tempura-stuffed rice balls. This is the sort of place you’re guaranteed to leave with a smile on your face. You may not be a fan of soy and tofu – and if you’ve never eaten it in Japan that’s understandable. But it’s a completely difference experience here, where there’s a whole cuisine based on the two ingredients – and there’s no better place to take a crash course than at Mameya Genge (B1F, The B 4-15-23 Sakae, Naka-ku, 460-0008). Here you’ll enjoy the likes of chilled black sesame tofu, spicy cod roe tofu gratin topped with egg and deep-fried Yuba tofu skin with shrimps. And for your main course? There’s no contest – a helping of their ‘famous soy milk shabu-shabu’ – a delicious hot pot based on local soy milk, followed by some soy milk ice cream, with a soy milk mocktail. 24

Elsewhere in Japan

5 SUPERSTAR RESTAURANTS FOR PERFECT DINNERS

Kyoto If you only have one night in Kyoto, make dinner time count and head for Isshan (693 Higashi Shiokoji-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto 600-8216), where the food is cooked on heated volcanic rocks from Mount Fuji. Fresh prawns, sliced tuna and strips of Japanese black beef are all lined up before you – sizzle them up and enjoy with a jumpinglyfresh tofu and daikon radish salad.

Osaka If you’re in need of a great lunch in Osaka,

turn to Saihashi (5F, Herbis Plaza Ent 2-222 Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0001), a sleekly-designed restaurant with a warm atmosphere. You can’t go wrong with their avocado dipped in Saikyo sweet miso, their mackerel grilled with yuzu citrus and a portion or two of their stellar egg rolls served with dried young sardine and flavoured with soup stock

conger eel and their yakitori chicken.

Hiroshima Over at Yuzuno Komichi (Daisan Hikari Bldg. 1F 10-17 Kaminobori-cho, Nakaku, Hiroshima-shi, 7300014), you can eat the freshest of fresh sushi from fish taken from tanks at the restaurant. Once you’ve finished the super-fresh slices, tuck in to their gratin of aubergine and prawn, their vinegar-laced

Okinawa Sam’s By the Sea in Awase (1-41-15 Awase Okinawa City, 098-937-3421) is a laidback restaurant where specialities include lobster thermidor, flaming shish kebabs and shrimp cocktail made with outlandishly large shrimp. Don’t expect high levels of sophistication, do expect excellent food.

Sapporo Some of the best steaks in Sapporo are available from Steak House HAMA (3F, New Hokuseir Bldg. 3 Minami 4jyo Nishi, Chuo-ku, Sapporo, Hokkaido 064-0805). You can’t go wrong with their tenderloin of Kuroge wagyu beef.

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