THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE
AUGUST 2010
We take you inside the new-look Savoy Meet the world’s happiest people in Copenhagen Be part of the revolution in Moscow
Produced in International Media Production Zone
GREEK ODYSSEY
Exploring the majestic Peloponnesian mountains by car
Foodie Italy TOTAL GUIDE
Pasta’s just the beginning: from sweet lobster in Alghero to huge Tuscan chestnuts, we guide you through the most tasteful trip you’ll ever take (with a little help from Antonio Carluccio)
Eid special
9 hotspots short-haul
PLUS! WIN A WEEKEND STAY FOR TWO AT THE BEAUTIFUL RITZ-CARLTON DUBAI – SEE P71 FOR DETAILS
KANOO WORLD TRAVELLER AUGUST 2010
CONTENTS TRAVEL BITES
FEATURES
05 AGENDA
66 CITY GUIDE: MOSCOW
08 SAVOY SAVVY
Everything you need to know about travel this month
Be a part of the Russian revolution
The 120-year-old London institution reopens
12 ASK THE EXPERT
68 CITY GUIDE: COPENHAGEN
in October – we give you a sneak peek inside
Readers’ travel questions answered
Discover Denmark’s design-driven capital
18 ESSENTIAL SELECTION
14 DRIVE TIME
70 DETAILS
Short-haul Eid breaks for every taste
Explore South Africa’s Garden Route by car
Find your nearest Kanoo outlet
26 GREECE LIGHTNING
16 PICTURE THIS
71 COMPETITION
A mother-daughter trip through the Peloponnese
Stuck for inspiration? This photo might help
Win a stay at the Ritz-Carlton Dubai
37 TOTAL GUIDE: FOODIE ITALY
65 THIRTY-SECOND CONCIERGE
72 SUITE DREAMS
From pizza and pasta to sea urchins and truffles, eat
The inside track on Tasmania’s latest resort
Palatial luxury in Chiang Mai, Thailand
your way around the country of gourmet greatness
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22 On the cover: Antipasti with Tuscan villa, shot by Leatart Brian.
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Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher
Editor: Ele Cooper
Cover courtesy of Photolibrary.
Publishing Director: John Thatcher
ele@hotmediapublishing.com
Additional images from Getty Images,
Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick
+971 4 375 7617
iStockphoto, www.simoscamping.gr,
chris@hotmediapublishing.com
Art Editor: Jenni Dennis
www.tastingplaces.com and Diane
+971 4 369 0917
Junior Designer: Matthew McBriar
Seed/www.italiangourmet.com.
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller. ‘Total Guide: Foodie Italy’ and ‘Copenhagen’ features reprinted with the kind permission of Sunday Times Travel magazine.
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Jan-June 2010 22,620 BPA Consumer Audit Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 3
AGENDA Be informed, be inspired, be there
GO THERE NOW
SINALEI REEF RESORT Visit the Sinalei Reef Resort now and it’s hard to believe that it was almost completely obliterated by the tsunami that shook Samoa last year. The South Pacific retreat has just reopened and is looking better than ever, with a brand new beachside spa which draws on the medicinal qualities of herbs, and a rejuvenating spring-water plunge pool. Accommodation is in luxurious-but-natural fales (beach huts) – there are few more peaceful places on Earth. www.sinalei.ws
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A taste of Thailand
If you haven’t had a chance to check out Andara Resort & Villas, the latest addition to Phuket’s Millionaires’ Mile, then why not take advantage of their amazing summer rates package? The exquisite complex comprises 37 suites and 26 pool villas, each with its own Thai chef, and from now until October 31 you can enjoy a two-night stay from just $580 per person, including airport transfers and a host of added extras. www.andaraphuket.com
PYRAMID SCHEME A pharaoh wouldn’t expect to have to fit in with a hotel’s checking-in and out times, and now when you stay at the pyramidical Raffles Dubai, you won’t either. Using the free airport transfer service, you can arrive whenever you like and check out 24 hours after that time, no matter what hour of the day or night. www.raffles.com
ONE-MINUTE MASTERCLASS: PORTUGUESE Hello, my name is… Olá, o meu nome é... I would like the fish stew please… Quero a caldeirada por favour… I don’t speak much Portuguese… Não falo muito português… Have a nice day… Tenha um bom dia…
TAKE FLIGHT
Both Etihad Airways (www. etihadairways.com) and Air Arabia (www.airarabia.com) have launched new routes between Abu Dhabi and the historical Egyptian city of Alexandria. See p22 to find out why you should go there. DID YOU KNOW? You can now collect Skywards points when staying in any Address Hotel. www.skywards.com; www.theaddress.com
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Ladies’ day
With gorgeous racecourse views, Jumeirah The Meydan (www.jumeirah.com) is already making a name for itself on Dubai’s luxury hotel circuit, and an added incentive has just been announced for solo female travellers, who can now book into a women-only floor. It’s the perfect solution for privacy seekers, with in-room check-in, free in-room breakfast, two-way airport transfers, 25 per cent off spa treatments, female butler, private limousine transport to The Dubai Mall, entry to ladies’ night at Wild Wadi water park, yoga mat and chick flicks. Whoever said it was a man’s world?
AGENDA | NEWS
BUSINESS OR BROADWAY?
New York, new hotels
The InterContinental New York Times Square has just opened and the W New York Downtown is taking reservations for stays from August 16 onwards. Which one is for you?
InterContinental
W Hotel
GLOBAL GOURMET
Every month we ask an expat chef to recommended a restaurant in their home country. Here’s what the Sofitel Jumeirah Beach’s French Pastry Chef Clement Raybaud had to say… www.sofitel.com ‘I would dine at La Verdoyante in Gassin, France. The family-run restaurant, which is in an old bastide-style house, has a beautiful setting in the middle of vineyards with exceptional views over the gulf of St Tropez from the terrace. The passionate chef and owner Laurent Mouret cooks delicious Provençal dishes, and while the menu changes every month, I really like the avocado crumble, coriander and lime scallops, mushroom cappuccino and traditional Bouillabaisse.’ La Verdoyante, Gassin, France, 00 33 494 561623
LOCATION At 44th and Eighth, surrounded by Broadway’s 40-plus theatres and some of the world’s best shopping
On Washington Street, in the heart of the business district. Wall Street and the stock exchange are close by
SIZE Rising 34 storeys above street level, it’s
Spread over 58 floors, the 217 guestrooms
the largest high-rise to have opened in
range from 305-sq-ft Wonderful Rooms to the
Manhattan since 2002, with 607 bedrooms
enormous 1,060-sq-ft Extreme WOW Suite
DÉCOR International architecture firm Gensler is behind the white-glass Eighth Avenue exterior and 44th Street warm granite wall. Inside, it’s modern, chic and neutral
W hotels are known for their ultra-mod edginess and Downtown doesn’t disappoint.
restaurant; the 2,700-sq-ft Presidential Suite which has two storeys, fireplace and free-standing tub
to the cutting-edge vibe
The Acura Experience – a complimentary SUV ride around the city – and the BLT Lounge & Grill which, in the hotel’s own words, ‘makes casual chow cool’
DETAILS From $379 room only. www.interconny.com
Read on for the three hottest Kanoo deals this month… Six nights’ B&B in a junior suite at Le Touessrok in Mauritius for $2,112pp Six nights’ B&B in the Seychelles at the Banyan Tree Intendance Bay for $3,205pp Six nights’ B&B at the Santa Marina Resort & Villas in Mykonos, Greece, for $1,425pp To book, call your nearest Kanoo office – see p70 for contact details. All packages subject to terms and conditions.
Neon colours and futuristic lighting add
HIGHLIGHTS Ça Va, celebrity chef Todd English’s new
GET AWAY
From $359 room only. www.starwoodhotels.com
iLike it Flying with BA any time soon? Executive Club members can now check in using their iPhone, Blackberry or Android, which will display a scannable mobile boarding pass to speed up the airport experience. www.britishairways.com
COOL CAT
If you enjoy the finer things in life, how about investing a cool $1,500 in one of these limited-edition Shanghai Tang box sets of LUXE City Guides? Only 70 of the individually engraved boxes, which are handmade in maple and ebony with kumquat silk lining, have been created, and each contains 30 books. They’ve been launched in celebration of the Chinese Year of the Tiger, and last year’s set sold out – so log on to www.shanghaitang.com as soon as possible to grab yours.
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AGENDA | SAVOY REOPENING
‘Fundamentally, you still know you’re in The Savoy’
Savoy savvy One of London’s most famous hotels reopens in October after a threeyear restoration project. Ele Cooper caught up with general manager Kiaran MacDonald to find out what to expect.
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Until 2007, the Savoy perfectly epitomised traditional London: elegant, classic, and just a little bit snobby. It was also a favourite of the rich and famous, having hosted Winston Churchill, The Beatles and Marilyn Monroe in its time. Then it was closed for what was intended to be a 16-month, $150 million refurbishment – the most expensive in British hotel history – and everything went quiet. Now, nearly three years later, a reopening date has finally been confirmed for October 10. But given that 3,000 items from the hotel, from pianos to chunks of the dance
floor, were sold at auction, will it even be recognisable? ‘Fundamentally, you still know you’re in The Savoy,’ says general manager Kiaran MacDonald. ‘The hotel has retained many of its original features: the art deco details, mahogany panels and cornicing have been painstakingly restored.’ Of course, there have also been changes. The central turning circle of the famous driveway has been replaced with a crystal Lalique and mod-cons have been added to the guestrooms, although MacDonald is at pains to point out that ‘light switches still look like light switches’. In some areas, however, the transformation has been quite dramatic. ‘While the River Restaurant used to be legendary, the room itself was actually very plain-looking,’ says MacDonald. ‘Pierre Yves Rochon, the interior designer, has transformed it into a light, subtle space which perfectly fits our vision of it as an informal, elegant dining room.’ Furthermore, the Beaufort, a lounge which hosted BBC broadcasts and Gershwin performances in its heyday yet which had been used as a chair store for the past few decades, has been brought back to life – and MacDonald, for one, is excited. ‘It’s a stunning black-and-gold, sultry space, and drinks will be served from the stage, giving it a real sense of occasion and theatre.’ So did the facelift come in on budget? ‘There have been reports in the press that in total it has cost closer to $300.4 million,’ concedes MacDonald, adding, ‘That’s as much as I can tell you.’ Find out whether it was worth it: reservations are open from August 15. Rooms from $525 per night. www.the-savoy.com
The Spa of course is fabulous but sometimes nothing beats retail therapy Live the moment.
One&Only Reethi Rah is part of a portfolio of distinctive and memorable resorts in The Bahamas, Dubai, Maldives, Mauritius, Mexico and Cape Town. Call +960 664 8800, email Reservations@oneandonlyresorts.com.mv or visit oneandonlyresorts.com.
AGENDA | CALENDAR
AUGUST
Your insider guide to the world’s hippest, messiest and most fascinating August events.
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TORO-NAGASHI Hiroshima, Japan The Peace Memorial Ceremony of Hiroshima commemorates the thousands of lives that were lost in 1945’s tragic atomic bombing. Each year, around 50,000 visitors from around the world converge for a minute’s silence at the Peace Memorial Park at 8.15am, reconvening for Toronagashi – the Peace Message Lantern Floating Ritual – come nightfall. Between 6pm and 9pm, some 10,000 lanterns, each adorned with words of peace, are released from boats and floated down the Motoyasu-gawa river: it’s a sight that’s breathtakingly beautiful and profoundly moving in equal measure. www.hcvb.city.hiroshima.jp
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MISS CRUSTACEAN HERMIT CRAB BEAUTY PAGEANT Ocean City, USA Perhaps the weirdest thing Kanoo World Traveller has ever featured, this kooky event bills itself as ‘the original beauty contest for crustaceans’. The lucky winner receives the Cucumber Rind Cup and is given the honour of scuttling down a flowery runway. Bizarre. www. oceancityvacation.com
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EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE Edinburgh, Scotland Originally conceptualised as a complementary ‘fringe’ to exist alongside the Edinburgh International Festival, this is now the largest arts fest in the world. Comedy lovers flock to the Scottish capital to see well-established stars and up-and-coming talent, but Fringe also showcases theatre, music and dance. www.edfringe.com
Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
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BROADBEACH JAZZ & FOOD FESTIVAL Queensland, Australia No explanation is needed for what this event’s all about. This year, Broadbeach plays host to award-winning singer-songwriter Kate Ceberano as well as Tobie Puttock, formerly head of the kitchen at Jamie Oliver’s London-based restaurant Fifteen, and many other gifted jazz artists and chefs. www.broadbeachgc.com
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SAIL 2010 Amsterdam, Holland Held every five years on the IJ river, this nautical extravaganza attracted a whopping 1.8 million visitors in 2005. The festival celebrates all things ship-shape, from historic war vessels to ultra-modern, high-tech behemoths. Oh, and there are fireworks, classical music performances and dance shows to keep landlubbers happy. www.sail2010.nl
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TOMATINA FESTIVAL Plaza del Pueblo, Buñol, Spain It all started in 1945, when a minor disagreement between a few lads and a disgruntled carnival participant led to a fullscale tomato fight. The locals made it an annual event which is now so popular that 150,000 tomatoes get hurled during the hour-long battle each year. Very fun and very messy. www.latomatina.es
AGENDA | TRAVEL Q&A
Ask the expert
This month: kid-free getaways, carbon-offsetting and the best theme park in the world. JESSICA HUDSON is co-founder of The Chic Collection’s travel advisory, and has the arduous job of jetting around the world sampling luxury hotels. TIM WOODS, the go-to man for all things green, is an international project leader for the British Trust for Conservation Volunteers (www. btcv.org). RACHEL HAMILTON is a full-time writer and the mother of two young children – Dylan and Jodie – whom she travels frequently with for her job.
Q: I want to take my kids to a theme park but don’t know which one to choose. Which do you consider to be the world’s best? A: With the recent opening of The Wizarding World of Harry Potter (above), the theme park du jour is Universal Orlando Resort’s Islands of Adventure (www.universalorlando.com), and with good reason. Whose kids could resist a trip to Hogwarts or a Hippogriff flight? The attraction has been created with the blessing of JK Rowling – in fact she signed off on film footage, models, and even the food. Many of the props in the park are film set originals, and cast members appear in new footage for Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey, the rollercoaster. While there, you can buy Hogwarts robes, Griffindor luggage tags, and even a Nimbus 2000 broomstick – if you have a spare $300. For those who can resist the magic of Potter, Islands of Adventure contains other themed islands with stomach-churning rides and exciting activities for all ages. You can save the day with Spidey on Marvel Super Hero Island, before travelling through Jurassic Park and Toon Lagoon to Seuss Landing, where you’ll ride through the pages of The Cat In The Hat. And it’s in Florida, so chances are the sun will be shining too. Rachel Hamilton Q: When I book flights, I always offset the carbon emissions if I can – but where does the money actually go, and what does it achieve? A: The funds from carbon offsetting schemes go to carbon reduction projects. They pay for a range of activities – for example tree planting (trees absorb carbon from the atmosphere as they grow), investment
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in clean energy (wind farms, for example), or paying for low-carbon technologies, such as fuel-efficient stoves. The idea is that by paying for something that reduces carbon emissions, or takes carbon out of the atmosphere, you balance out your share of the carbon emitted during your flight. The system isn’t without its flaws though: for example, trees planted to offset carbon may be cleared at a later date or simply die, meaning your carbon footprint is not actually balanced out. Using a well-established offsetting company will help to ensure that the benefits are actually realised – ClimateCare (www.jpmorganclimatecare.com) is a good option. Tim Woods Q: I want to book a September holiday at an adults-only resort but don’t want anywhere pretentious. It needs to be sunny and no more than four hours from the Middle East. Any ideas? A: Kahanda Kanda (www.kahandakanda.com) in Sri Lanka is ideal for a peaceful getaway without kids (no children under 12 years old are allowed). It’s a new boutique hotel with just five air-conditioned suites; the atmosphere is very laid-back but there’s all the service and luxury of a five-star hotel. It overlooks Koggala Lake and is surrounded by the lush greenery of a tea plantation, with breathtaking views of palmfringed jungle and the Indian Ocean. Galle Fort and some of the world’s best beaches are a short drive away, and with coastal temperatures averaging 27°C in September, it’s an ideal time to visit. Jessica Hudson
| XXXXXXXXX | DRIVE DRIVETIME AGENDA TIME
SHARK ALERT
GARDEN ROUTE DRIVE SOUTH AFRICA’S SOUTHERN COASTLINE FOR JAW-DROPPING WILDLIFE AND EXTREME SPORTS.
Despite the name, gardens don’t feature heavily on this trip – the 200km route simply earned its moniker due to the vast contrast between its lush vegetation and the arid landscapes of inner South Africa. Kick things off in Mossel Bay, a pretty, bustling seaside town, then drive east towards the Wilderness National Park. You’ll be bewitched by the dramatic explosion of beauty where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet, swirling around lagoons and, along with the wetlands, providing a splashy playground for the 250 species of birds that call the park home. Next, it’s on to Plettenberg Bay (or ‘Plett’), a popular coastal resort with more than its fair share of upmarket hotels. To the east, leave the N2 and begin the helter-skelter descent through ancient, fragrant forest to
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Nature’s Valley. Its golden sands stretch into a pristine lagoon, making it perfect for some relaxing out-of-car time – but if you prefer to drive on the wild side, head for Tsitsikamma National Park, a spectacular stretch of rugged coastline where you can hike or even embark upon an underwater snorkelling nature trail (watch out for sharks). If you are the thrill-seeking type, head into the forest where you’ll find the world’s highest bungee jump at Bloukrans Bridge. Safely back in the car, having sprouted a few more grey hairs than you came to South Africa with, rejoin the N2 and soar along the coast towards end destination Port Elizabeth, playing spot-the-whale as you go: the Garden Route is one of the best places in the world for spying the enormous mammals from dry land.
Picture this
SERENGETI TANZANIA
The migration of Tanzania’s wildebeest is a truly humbling phenomenon. Though the species typically lives in small herds, the enormous nomadic population of the Serengeti travels as one throughout the year, clocking up around 1,600km annually. In January and February, 80 per cent of the year’s calves are born – nature’s way of providing a glut for predators, ensuring higher survival rates – and within minutes of birth, they can run. The wildebeest set off from the plains of the Serengeti then it’s on to Lake Victoria, followed by the Masai Mara and finally back to where they started, always with one aim: finding food. It’s a treacherous journey during which hundreds of lives are lost and the concept of ‘survival of the fittest’ couldn’t be more poignant.
AGENDA | EID SPECIAL
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AGENDA | EID SPECIAL
ESSENTIAL SELECTION
Eid breaks
In advance of the post-Ramadan holidays, Ele Cooper guides you through the best destinations within five hours’ flying time from the Middle East. You might be surprised by how close some of them actually are…
THE MALDIVES September weather: Average temperatures of 26°C with wind and showers but plenty of sunny days too. You’ll love it if: You want to do nothing more taxing than deciding which fresh juice you fancy that day. The brief: The Maldivian seas will reveal more shades of blue than you’d ever thought possible. Among them are scattered nearly 1,200 coral islands, the highest of which pokes a mere 2.3 metres above water level. Icing sugar sands are interrupted by nothing but lazily hanging palm trees and the odd five-star hut perching neatly on stilts above the water. You couldn’t find a closer approximation of paradise if you stepped onto the set of a Bounty advert. Hotel of choice: The past few years have seen a wealth of amazing resorts spring up in the Maldives, but number one has got to be One&Only Reethi Rah (www.oneandonlyresorts.com). The 130 private villas are divided between the water and the beach, the former offering steps directly into the Indian Ocean and both being decorated with stunning natural materials – mahogany, coconut shells, silk and rattan. Pure, unadulterated bliss.
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AGENDA | EID SPECIAL
‘Alexandria is more clement than Cairo and has a history richer than the Sultan of Brunei’ ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT September weather: Average temperatures of 26°C, with lots of bright sunshine and blue skies. You’ll love it if: You want to combine ancient history with Arabic flair. The brief: Often overlooked in favour of the Egyptian capital, Alexandria is a great Eid break option: its northerly position makes it more clement than Cairo and it has a history richer than the Sultan of Brunei. Alexander the Great founded the city more than 2,000 years ago, so Alexandria’s beauty is very much of the faded variety, but no less special for it. After waking yourself up with one of the city’s famously strong coffees, explore the magnificent Citadel of Qaitbay, the crumbling Roman theatre and the ancient Pompey’s Pillar. Hotel of choice: With a name as long as ‘The Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano, Egypt’ (www.fourseasons.com), you’d expect something pretty special – and this place is. Sublime restaurant terraces overlooking the bay, classically decorated bedrooms with Egyptian design flourishes and a contemporary spa offering European treatments combine to create inimitable comfort and elegance.
MUMBAI, INDIA September weather: Average temperatures of 27°C with light showers. You’ll love it if: You’re after hefty doses of culture and madness in equal measure. The brief: An explosion of colour, noise and mayhem greets you immediately on stepping foot in this city of contrasts. The home of Bollywood, Mumbai’s got a distinctly glamorous side to it, with hip restaurants and beautiful people galore, but anyone who’s watched Slumdog Millionaire will be well aware of its darker side and enormous poverty gap, too. Those interested in India’s colonial past should wander through the south of the city, where stately façades vie for attention against gothic Victorian architecture; shopaholics will love the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, a government-owned shop selling pretty much anything India-related you can think of at controlled prices. Hotel of choice: The Taj Lands End (www.tajhotels.com) provides an invaluable respite from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai, with soothing sea views and a quiet location in the suburb of Bandra. Rooms are simply but tastefully decked out – think dark wood and huge bathtubs – and there’s a female butler service for lone lady travellers.
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AGENDA | EID SPECIAL
CYPRUS September weather: Average temperatures of 28°C (though cooler in the mountains), with gorgeous, sun-filled days. You’ll love it if: A balance of beach and cultural sites is your bag. The brief: Much closer to the Middle East than the other Greek islands, Cyprus lies between the west coast of Syria and Turkey’s southern shoreline. Its peaceful golden beaches are dwarfed by towering mountain ranges; vibrant colours sing out from the abundant forests and citrus plantations that carpet the island. Shun the brash tourist resorts and head inland for quaint, unassuming little villages where you’ll find restaurants serving up freshly grilled fish amid quiet ruins with fascinating stories attached to them. Hotel of choice: Making the most of their idyllic coastal setting, the villas and suites that make up the Anassa (www.anassa.com. cy) cascade down the Latchi hillside, overlooking the sapphire Mediterranean and skillfully landscaped tropical gardens. Interiors are breezy and nautical, with floating neutral linens and intimate balconies, and there’s an award-winning Thalassotherapy spa to boot.
KATHMANDU, NEPAL September weather: Average temperatures of 24°C; rainy. You’ll love it if: You want to see Nepal but don’t have time to climb Everest. The brief: Contrary to popular belief, trekking isn’t the only way to see Nepal: rafting is an increasingly popular alternative. The monsoon season typically runs from June to September, filling the rivers with furious swells of water, so Eid is the perfect time for white-water rafting at its adrenaline-blasting best. The Trisuli High Water trail is the most suitable option for thrill-seekers who don’t have more than a few days to spare: it’s only two hours from Kathmandu, the river route takes you through verdant valleys, breathtaking gorges and white-knuckle rapids, and it can be done in a couple of days. Hotel of choice: If you opt for a 48-hour rafting expedition, you’ll spend one night camping, so you’ll want somewhere über-gorgeous for the sandwiching nights in Kathmandu. Slightly removed from the madness of the city itself is the Hyatt Regency (www. kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com), a five-star resort offering 280 classically decorated, comfortable rooms with soothing garden or pool views.
‘The route takes you through breathtaking gorges and whiteknuckle rapids’ 22
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AGENDA | EID SPECIAL
COAST PROVINCE, KENYA September weather: Average temperatures of 25°C with occasional morning and night-time showers and a pleasant coastal breeze. You’ll love it if: You want a bit of everything – wildlife, beachbasking and culture. The brief: Even the most demanding traveller couldn’t fail to be delighted by this region. The dreamy beaches are blessed with pristine, snow-white sands and the hypnotically gentle waves of the Indian Ocean; a little way inland there’s a small-but-enchanting national reserve called Shimba Hills housing 700 elephants; kitesurfing, mountain-biking and scuba-diving are just three of the plentiful outdoor pursuits on offer; and Mombasa, the province’s principal city, is rife with fascinating historical tidbits courtesy of its multicultural heritage. Hotel of choice: Glorious, stunning, luxurious; no matter what superlative you throw at it, it’s difficult to come close to describing the family-run Msambweni Beach House (www.msambweni-house.com). Standing on a cliff with direct access onto a private beach, it’s a whitewashed, thatched-roofed, three-bedroom house with separate villa and luxury tent. Inside, the décor combines Swahili elegance with floating white fabrics and four-poster beds, each room coming with a private verandah looking onto the free-form infinity pool.
ANTALYA, TURKEY September weather: Average temperatures of 26°C, with long, sun-drenched days. You’ll love it if: You class turquoise seas and wellpreserved ruins among your destination must-haves. The brief: Turkey’s southern coast is renowned for its gorgeous Mediterranean beaches, rocky inlets and intriguing historical monuments. Though Antalya itself is a lovely city, with a pretty harbour and incredible views of the Bey mountains, the surrounding areas are well worth exploring too: Manavgat Waterfall is a phenomenal sight, the thundering cascade encircled by pea-green forest, while Kaş offers excellent diving opportunities and Aspendos showcases one of the world’s best-preserved ancient theatres. Hotel of choice: Given that it was inspired by the Dolmabahçe Palace, it’s no surprise that the Mardan Palace (www.mardanpalace.com) is opulent in the extreme. The lobby is built around an enormous forked staircase clad with requisite red carpet, a suitably sparkly centrepiece shining down in the form of a huge chandelier. While Ottoman design is combined with rich European-style reds and golds in the communal areas, many bedrooms are surprisingly devoid of overbearing flourishes, instead peacefully decked out with soothing neutral hues. Those who judge hotels by their swimming pools will be interested to learn that the Mardan Palace’s is one of the biggest we’ve ever seen.
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AGENDA | EID SPECIAL
THE DEAD SEA, JORDAN September weather: Average temperatures of 24°C; days tend to be sunny with a light breeze. You’ll love it if: You want to escape the stresses of everyday life. The brief: Once you’ve experienced the natural phenomenon of waters so salty that you naturally float on the surface, slip away from the legions of fellow tourists bobbing on their backs and pretending to read a book for that photo opp. Wander just a short distance around the coast and you’ll be amazed by the sense of calm that descends upon you: huge, salt-encrusted rock formations loom from the eerily still waters, the lack of life echoing silently through the air. The Dead Sea should be on everyone’s must-visit list. Hotel of choice: A 30-minute drive from the Dead Sea is Evason Ma’In Hot Springs and Six Senses Spa (www.sixsenses.com). Lurking 264 metres below sea level and hugged by dramatic craggy mountains, this oasis-like retreat is a saviour to those in need of relaxation. With the hot springs’ waterfalls gushing right outside the windows of many of the rooms, the healing properties of water are central to a stay here and, reflecting the wellness theme, the cliff-top restaurant dishes up meals made with ingredients from the resort’s own organic herb and vegetable gardens. It’s a genuine treat for the senses.
BEIRUT, LEBANON September weather: Average temperatures of 26°C, with balmy, breezy, sunny days. You’ll love it if: You want a friendly, laid-back city with easy access to natural beauty. The brief: There’s nowhere quite like Beirut: despite its troubled past, the people couldn’t be smilier, and its seaside setting means you never feel suffocated. Wander through the jumbled chaos of Gemmayze, where the faded neoclassical architecture is enlivened by a rainbow array of flowers on every balcony and mopeds zip past honking cars; then move to Downtown, where the buildings have been sympathetically restored to their former glory and designer boutiques line the orderly, pedestrianised streets. Turn the corner in a seemingly modern area, meanwhile, and you’ll be confronted by crumbling ruins. A short drive away are huge mountains shrouded in greenery and the spectacular crystallised caves of Jeita Grotto. Hotel of choice: When Le Gray (www.campbellgrayhotels.com) opened last year, it set a new benchmark in luxury for Beirut. Centrally located, it boasts cutting-edge décor – think ultra-violet piano lounges, bold combinations of natural materials and modern art, and, bizarrely, the outline of a man picked out in plants – and a selection of stunning restaurants, including Indigo on the Roof, which specialises in simply grilled cuts of grass-fed beef.
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Greece LIGHTNING Ele Cooper explores the Peloponnese by car, trying not to veer over a cliff edge in the process.
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GREECE | THE PELOPONNESE
T
ake two women who are close enough not to feel the slightest bit worried about snapping at each other, set them on roads they’ve never driven before, factor in one person with no sense of direction (me) and another with zero experience of driving on the right (my mum) and you could well have a recipe for world war three on your hands. Thus when my mother added the words ‘We could do a road trip!’ to her suggestion that we hold the June edition of our twice-yearly reunion in Greece, it was with considerable trepidation that I accepted.
After a shaky start involving near-collision with a juggernaut and a very angry, very hairy motorcyclist, I find my driving feet. In no time at all we’re zooming along the motorway, my mum ‘navigating’ using the enormous map she’s brought along and me tactfully pretending not to see the road signs which will direct us to Nafplio, our first destination, just as effectively. For a short-but-sweet period between 1828 and 1834, this ancient town was the capital of Greece – but Nafplio is nothing like the buzzing metropolis that is modern-day Athens. With its faded neoclassical beauty, modern (but determinedly vintage-style) boutiques, bougainvillea spilling down from overhead balconies and the odd bit of inartistic graffiti, it bears similarities to Beirut, albeit a more polished version. Kids race around clutching ice-creams in sticky fingers, huddling together and hatching mischievous plots; locals strut through the large, marble-tiled Syntagma
Square stopping to greet acquaintances while surreptitiously assessing each other’s outfits; couples stroll along peering in at window displays which are invariably immaculate, regardless of whether they’re flogging shisha pipes, designer garb or sewing machines. We wander through the maze of narrow streets – officially pedestrianised despite the odd car that sidles through, honking idlers out of the way – and sit down with Herculean-strength coffees so we can watch the action. Although there are plenty of townhouses offering bed and breakfast in Nafplio, we’ve opted to stay slightly outside the centre at the Amalia. It’s a neat, relatively large hotel with lovely grounds, peaceful inner courtyard, friendly, knowledgeable staff and an Olympicsized swimming pool (which clinched it for me). Listening to the placid babbling of a nearby stream while sitting on the town-facing balcony on our first night, I spot what turns out to be Palamidi Castle looming imperiously from the top of the enormous hill that towers above Nafplio. The next morning, we tell our concierge that we’re keen to visit it. Apparently, it’s named after Palamedes, the son of Nafplio’s founder Nauplio (evidently, the translation of the Greek alphabet results in a fair few spelling discrepancies). According to the legend, Palamedes invented dice, navigation, lighthouses, weights, measures, several letters of the alphabet and – this one’s my favourite – jokes. Unfortunately for Palamedes, Ithaca’s King Odysseus didn’t have much of a sense of humour and ordered that he be executed for treachery. Along with the story, the concierge tells us that the castle can be reached via car or 999 steep steps. Contrary creatures that
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we are, we ignore his advice to taxi it to the top and then walk down, and set out on foot. The light breeze does little to alleviate the effects of the rising sun and we’re both gasping by step 20. By the time we reach the top, we’re exhausted, but the views keep us quiet long after our ragged breathing calms itself to a normal rate: things begin modestly with the town centre’s higgledy-piggledy rooftops, which then trickle into quieter, Roman-straight streets, in turn backing onto neatly ploughed fields. These are flanked by the mountains teetering drowsily on the hazy horizon – plus of course the omnipresent sea, glittering seductively under midday rays. Despite their status as ruins, the remnants of the castle are well-preserved, especially given their prominent position in the path of centuries’ worth of storms. We spend a good half hour peering into eerie dungeons and through arrow slits in the crumbling walls. That evening, having succumbed to a taxi back down, we sit by the harbour and watch the sun setting behind the mountains that curve around the coast. The half-moon of sea between us and the range contains a little island, with the picturesque Bourtzi Castle (a former executioner’s home) popped on top of it like a cherry on a cupcake. Not quite ready for dinner, we stroll south around the coastal path. Following others’ leads and ignoring the big ‘DO NOT ENTER’ signs, we duck under some torn fencing and continue around the land’s edge, passing old men shooting the breeze from idyllically positioned benches, young couples idling the evening away in tiny restaurants and gangs of lads divebombing into the water below, the honey light casting a warm glow on everyone lucky enough to be there.
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Previous page: Dramatic driving in the Peloponnese. This page: Higgledy-piggledy rooftops lead to the bay of Nafplio, Bourtzi Castle perching in its centre. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Dining at the Amalia; Town-centre balcony; Neatly ploughed fields in Nafplio; Infinity and beyond at the Kinsterna’s pool.
Later, despite having devoured a belt-busting dinner of stuffed peppers and chicken souvlaki (kebabs) at Paleo Archontiko (7 Siokou, +30 27520 22449), we can’t resist stopping at Gelateria di Piazza (23, Vas Konstantinou Street, +30 27520 21197). We’d been eyeing up its creamy wares all week and it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that the frozen Greek yoghurt I dig into has changed my dessert standards forever more. We get up early (well, at 8am) the next morning for our second road trip. The Peloponnese dangles beneath Greece’s main chunk like an afterthought, its south forking into two and resembling the roots of an extracted tooth. Today, we’re headed for Monemvasia, in the righthand root. By this stage my mother has only taken one nervous and halting turn around the car park so I tell her I’ll drive and we hit the road. Immediately on leaving the town, we’re winding up towering mountains, me trying not to let the spectacular scenery interfere with my hairpin turns. Though the overriding theme is green, it starts out modestly, the scratchy land dotted with fluffy-looking bushes, but as we progress further south it becomes increasingly lush with dense foliage, small trees and the odd incongruous cypress looming up solitarily, like a wise old wizard. At one point, my mum decides she’s ready to take a turn at the wheel, and as soon as she does so I wonder if she has a secret schizophrenic side: gone is the timid woman too petrified to move her left foot away from the brake pedal; she speeds along as if there isn’t
| THE PELOPONNESE GREECE GREECE LIGHTNING
a sheer cliff at the side of the road waiting to swallow us and our faithful saloon at the first opportunity. Just as I begin to wonder whether my knuckles will ever lose the white glare they’ve adopted since we swapped seats, we realise we’re nearly there, and embark on the approach to the hotel. It’s a rather eccentric route that takes us along so many singletrack gravel lanes that we increasingly suspect we’re on a wild goose chase until, just as we’re about to give up and turn back, we spot a small grey sign pointing us in the direction of the Kinsterna. Hiding in the inner elbow of a coastal nook, the secluded hillside location of this 500-year-old mansion provided the perfect hideaway for Byzantine royals, keen to escape to the country without the danger of being seen by enemy ships. The quirks of what is left of the original structure remain – tiny windows with Borrower-sized shutters; cubby holes set into thick walls; low-level archways leading to steep steps – but the owners, a local family who have restored the property so lovingly they could have been wearing kid gloves, have added stylish modern twists: our suite has an ornate feature wall, Perspex chairs and übercool faux-gilt mirrors. Served by the ancient cistern at the heart of the complex, the infinity pool overlooks nothing more taxing than a cerulean sea, terracotta earth and olive trees. Along one side are double sun beds with enormous hoods for when the sun is at its most ferocious; on our ‘indulgence day’ (when we literally don’t leave the Kinsterna for 24 hours), waiters bring chilled refreshments – an iced tea here, a fresh fruit juice there – throughout. It’s bliss. On our first night in Nafplio, my mother had ominously declared, ‘They say you don’t come to Greece for the food.’ On the whole, she had been
right – but dining at the Kinsterna makes me realise what a generalisation this was. Greek salad arrives vibrantly green and crunchy, sweet tomatoes vying for favour against peppery rocket leaves and piquant red onion. The mushrooms in my risotto are wild and fresh, swathed in a creamy sauce atop perfectly al dente rice. I make a vague attempt at relieving my calorie-induced guilt with the light option – lemon mousse – for pudding, but really any worries about my waistline have flown away on the light evening breeze. With food this good, I couldn’t care less. Twenty minutes later we both collapse into our beds; I sleep more soundly than I have in months and I guess from my mother’s occasional snores that this is mutual.
Where to shop in Nafplio Nafplio Natura (19 Staikopoulou Street, www.nafplio-natura.gr) is a rustic little shop packed to the rafters with organic Greek produce: local olive oil, moussaka spice packs, orange blossom honey, ‘make it yourself’ baklava kits, sour cherry sweets… A foodie’s paradise. Presenta Articrafts (31 Staikopoulou Street, www.presenta.gr) sells local paintings mounted on stands and turns simple light fittings into works of art – wrapped in silk and handmade paper, fashioned into birds, twisted around wire figures. You’ll be hard pushed to leave without investigating shipping rates. Laineli (3 Vas Konstantinou Street, +30 2752 26167) is a haven both for kids and those who want to reminisce about their own childhoods, selling bright wooden toys, metal car replicas, mini-Vespas, children’s wall paintings and kooky clocks. It also stocks the jewellery which abounds throughout Nafplio – a hammered gold style, which is actually bronze underneath.
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GREECE | THE PELOPONNESE
Right: Monemvasia. Below left: Al-fresco dining at the Kinsterna’s restaurant. Bottom: The Kinsterna’s mushroom risotto comes fresh, wild and creamy.
‘Come nightfall, Monemvasia descends into total darkness – we actually feel quite fearful’ The next evening, my conscience reminds me that we really ought to check out Monemvasia, the reason we travelled down here. It’s an enormous rock tagged onto the mainland by a strip of land wide enough only to hold a road, making it a prime defensive stronghold in days of yore – something its residents were all too aware of when they came under a three-year siege in 1246, to which they surrendered only once they’d eaten every last thing there, including cats, dogs and rats. Unlike the artfully spot-lit Palamidi Castle, Monemvasia and the fortress on its top descend into total darkness come nightfall. We actually feel quite fearful as we park by a precarious verge which tumbles down to the sea below and venture up to the opening in the wall, which is too narrow to pass by car (hence Monemvasia’s translation as ‘single entrance’). But once we’ve tiptoed in, we’re enchanted: it’s small but lovely, with tiny art galleries, a couple of restaurants set on cliff-top terraces and numerous steep, cobbled paths twisting up and down between historic dwellings.
If it’s action and the opportunity to choose from more than three eateries you’re after, though, Geyfra – the village through which Monemvasia is accessed, on the bulk of the mainland – is perfect (and it offers views of the rock and castle). Cafés line up along the quiet, twinkling harbour and there are few finer ways to while away an evening than setting up camp here and grazing on salad, freshly baked bread and smoky grilled meat as the colours reflected from the sun in the millpond-still water transform from silver to orange to pink, before dissolving into an inky indigo. The next morning, on the advice of George and Malvina, our hosts at the Kinsterna, we decide to make the ‘40-minute-long’ journey to Simos Beach. After filling up on a $60 tank of petrol – Toto, we’re not in the Middle East anymore – we set out towards Pounta, from where we are to catch a car ferry to the tiny island of Elafonissos. Somewhere along the way, we miss our turning and end up weaving down increasingly rough tracks until the road stops altogether at a small, roguish-looking
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GREECE | THE PELOPONNESE
Opposite: Monemvasia mooching. This page, clockwise from left: Rustic Suite at the Kinsterna; Olives abound in the region; Paradise at Simos Beach.
cove. Turning back, we ask a farmer where the road to Pounta is. Using hand signals, he tells us it’s two kilometres back the way we came – or so we think. Ten kilometres along and still none the wiser, we take what we assume must be the right turning and end up on one of the most terrifying roads I’ve ever encountered. I’m not a nervous driver – on the contrary, I normally speed like Roadrunner and relish a single-track adventure – but when the petrol needle’s creeping towards empty at a disconcerting rate, the bends are so tight they feel like full 180s, we haven’t seen another human being for the past half hour and we still have no idea where we’re going, I begin to feel cold tentacles of stress creep around my shoulders. My mum does her best to diffuse the tension, staring at her long-defunct map with great intent, but it’s no use: visions of becoming stuck in the mountains, the sun beating down and no one but the odd toothless crone passing by, prompt me to drive faster (no-doubt worsening the fuel deficit), hunching over the wheel like the old lady I’ll surely be by the time we escape this nightmare. When, finally, we pass through a village which is not only on the (now-forgiven) map but, mercy of mercies, part of our required route, followed in quick succession by a sign saying ’Petrol: 5km’, I nearly weep with relief. Nearly two hours after leaving Monemvasia, when we finally arrive in Pounta, I feel like a
‘The sea is duck-egg blue, intensifying into brilliant turquoise as it stretches away’
desert traveller who has reached an oasis. The sea is a transparent duck-egg blue, intensifying into brilliant turquoise as it stretches away from us. On the horizon, a defiant stripe of sapphire abruptly cuts across the lighter water. As we sail the short distance to the opposite coast, the clarity of the water belies its depth, making it seem as if we are skimming over shallows of a metre or so, when in fact it must be well over 10 times that. The short trip from the ferry to the beach is gorgeous. Relatively speaking, the roads are flat, curving idly around citrus plantations, sprawling olive groves, little inlets and patches of mauve heather, the gentleness of the drive providing a restful reprieve from the earlier drama of the mountains. When we reach Simos Beach, we park by an arched sign that says ‘Welcome to paradise’. Then, just beyond a few smooth golden dunes, we see it: a stretch of powdery sand, empty save for one couple and a jolly old man, curving round into a green-topped hill on either side. Lapping the cove are placid, glassy waters. The collection of 40 or so sun beds belies the quietness – only two are occupied. A lone white yacht bobs peacefully in the western corner of the cove. My mum flops contentedly down with her book and I wander along the shore, pausing to take the occasional photograph. It was worth the trip.
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30% discount on green fees. Dining options are plentiful at these properties, sharing a combined six restaurants and three lounges between them, including the French fine-dining restaurant Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire – recently voted one of the world’s top 100 restaurants – and an authentically themed Belgian Café, which serves superb traditional cuisine and a host of unique beverages. For room reservations, please call +971 (0) 4 701 1110, email reservations@ichdfc.ae or visit www. intercontinental.com/dubai.
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TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
TOTAL GUIDE
FOODIE ITALY Great meals make the perfect holiday. Allow us to whet your appetite…
Image courtesy of www.tastingplaces.com
PAGE 38 GLITTERING PRIZES: There’s something fishy about southern Sicily… It’s home to possibly the finest seafood in Italy. PAGE 42 GASTRO HUBS: Between the sights make room for the bites, in five fabulous foodie cities. PAGE 48 KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL: Celebrated chefs reveal their secret retreats. PAGE 52 SEASONS’ EATINGS: Delicacies worth designing your trip around.
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Glittering prizes
Invaders introduced the international flavours – but, says Anthony Capella, the shining stars of southern Sicilian cooking are the sea’s ingredients.
E
ven before you walk into a restaurant here you’ve worked up an appetite. It’s the smell of the air: a pungent mix of orange blossom and bergamot, sharp citrus and chocolatey carob, sea salt and the hot, peppery wind that blows in from northern Africa. Locals call it ‘la zagara’, and once there was even a perfume named after it. As I drive south along Sicily’s east coast from Catania airport, in the opposite direction to busy Taormina – the snow-capped monolith of Mount Etna on one side, glittering sea on the other – I turn off the air-con and wind down the windows, the better to fill my lungs with the intoxicating scent. Europe has many great culinary centres. The gastronomic capitals of Paris and Bordeaux, the pastry makers of Vienna, the bravura cooks of Bologna and Milan… By contrast,
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I’m heading for a region where there’s not a celebrity chef in sight, and where many of the best-loved restaurants don’t even have roofs. Yet it has bundles of something far more important, something which gives me a sense of excitement every time I come here: a thriving foodie heritage that’s based on the fruits of the sea. The water has given two things to this part of Sicily. The first, of course, is raw ingredients. Some people claim the seafood is so plentiful because the straits between island and mainland, which narrow as they progress towards Messina, act as a kind of natural funnel. Certainly, there’s more good fish in the markets here than I’ve seen almost anywhere else in the world: swordfish – in such quantities that fishmongers distinguish between different cuts (tail and belly, say) the way a butcher elsewhere might sell sirloin and rump; shiny
sea urchins, their purple spines still waving on the slab; octopuses, some as small as Brussels sprouts, others the size of armchairs; meaty tuna, delicate spider crabs and giant lobsters. But more importantly, the sea has brought people. Each wave of invaders, however unwelcome at the time, added their own ingredients. The Greeks introduced olives and grapes. The Romans added pasta, vegetables and grain. The Arabs arrived with apricots, oranges, pistachios, almonds and spices. With the Normans came sauces, and some respect for the cooks who made them (the local word for chef, monsù, is derived from monsieur), while the Spanish delivered chocolate, saffron and prickly pear. A Sicilian meal is a vibrant mix of textures, spices, techniques and influences, all served up with a breezy informality that perfectly captures the essence of the Mediterranean.
TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
Clockwise from left: Syracuse Harbour; Ortigia; Orange blossom; Vibrant fish market; Spaghetti alle vongole.
Of course, there are plenty of seaside towns in Sicily, but none of them have the same relentless focus on seafood as Syracuse. In part, this is because of its history. The oldest part of the city – Ortigia – is itself an island, joined to the mainland by two short bridges. The city was once a Greek stronghold: Archimedes was born here and it’s where he had his ‘Eureka’ moment, while Plato said of the locals, ‘They build for eternity, and feast as if there was no tomorrow.’ Nowhere is this more evident than at Don Camillo, an elegant restaurant with a vaulted stone roof, where you can extract a history lesson from a single dish. There’s macaroni with shrimp and orange zest; swordfish with pine nuts and raisins; and pasta tossed in pesto made with pistachio and fennel. It’s the original fusion food. In many of the city’s restaurants, ingredients are treated even more simply. Archimede is typical. To look at, it’s little more than a couple of rooms lined with white tiles and an open kitchen where men in blood-smeared aprons sweat and shout over a flaming grill. Your fish arrives at the table still sizzling, seared
as simply as a steak, with a small salad of onions, blood oranges and mint on the side. L’Ancora, at one end of the grid of streets which host Syracuse’s chaotic food market, is more straightforward still. The cash desk beside the door is piled high with crustacea, some of them still wriggling. We choose neonati (baby fish the size of matchsticks); octopus tentacles with chilli and olive oil; thick, juicy sardines and bocconi (whelks shaped like tiny conches). Afterwards, there’s pasta: ear-shaped orecchiette with a rich, fishy sauce of swordfish eggs, tomatoes and fennel, and spaghetti al ricci, tossed with sea urchins. During our meal, taxi drivers wander in and out collecting takeaways, and argue about the talk show on the TV in the corner. The following evening, we struggle to hear the clunk of our cutlery over the noise made by boisterous family parties at Jonico, a large, smart restaurant a short stroll from the centre of town. Here, it’s not unusual to see three generations tucking into zuppa di pesce alla siracusana (a thick stew made with a dozen varieties of baked fish and mussels). Hire a car, and you’ll find that a pootle into the countryside will unearth even more
The ones that got away… Four more seafood specials Venice : The city has a reputation for lousy food at rip-off prices – but stick to seafood and you’ll do all right, particularly if you choose from the lagoon: eels, smaller fish and crustaceans. Equally good are vegetables grown in the salty soil of the lagoon islands. Look for the word ‘nostrani’, which means ‘local produce’. Genoa: The Ligurian coast is best known for the Cinque Terre, five little towns linked by a coastal path. But the Genoan speciality, seppie in zemino (squid stewed in its own ink), can be spectacular, as can the monkfish with olives, and stoccafisso – a mixture of potatoes and dried cod. Como: You’re nowhere near the sea, but the freshwater fish are so abundant in Italy’s great lakes that it won’t matter. Try the risotto con filetti de persico (risotto with fillets of perch) and lavarelli alla salvia (whitefish fried with sage). Alghero: Pretty Alghero, in Sardinia, was built by the Spanish – the street signs are in Catalan as well as Italian, and there are Catalan influences in the fish stews and soups. The coast here is famous for its small red lobsters, sweeter, and cheaper, than those of many other countries.
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treats. Pretty sand-coloured Noto, less than 50km down the coast, is home to crumbly palaces and some of Italy’s best ice cream – the tangerine and pistachio flavours are sensational. Inland, Modica is the place to go for a chocolate hit – there have been chocolate-makers here since the Spanish brought the first beans back from South America. But these are mere side servings to Syracuse’s main course. Celebrity master chef Rick Stein, himself no stranger to a nice bit of fish, likes to quote an old saying about Italy: ‘In France, food is all about the glory of chefs; in Italy it’s all about the glory of God.’ Nowhere is it truer than in Syracuse.
The brief Where to stay Near Ragusa, Eremo della Giubiliana (00 39 0932 66919; from $280 B&B) is a pretty boutique hotel. The restaurant uses fresh produce from its own farm. Algila (www.algila.it; from $270 B&B) has beautiful beamed rooms in a 19th-century pile in Ortigia. Casa Mia (www. bbcasamia.it; from $113 B&B) has 10 simple, white-walled rooms with carved beds and antique knick-knacks, and a pretty patio for alfresco breakfasts. Where to eat Ristorante L’Ancora (00 39 0931 462369; closed Mondays), Via Perno 7, Ortigia, has mains from $15. Il Cenacolo (00 39 0931 65099; closed Wednesdays), Via Corte Avolio 9, Ortigia, has pizzas from $11 and mains from $15. Don Camillo (00 39 0931 67133; closed Sundays and most of November), Via Maestranza 92, Ortigia, has mains from $23. Jonico ’a Rutta ’e Ciauli (00 39 0931 65540; closed Wednesdays except in high season), Riviera Dionisio Il Grande 194, Syracuse, has mains from $23. Archimede (00 39 0931 69701; closed Sundays), Via Gemellaro 8, Ortigia, has mains from $15. Right: Shopping for dinner ingredients at the local market.
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TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
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Gastro hubs
See the sights without missing meals. Our bite-size citybreaks show you how… FLORENCE BREAKFAST Make it a late one: mid-morning ice cream at Gelateria Carrozza (Piazza del Pesce 3), between Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi. Here you’ll find seasonal flavours such as zingy clementine. BETWEEN BITES Take a break from the gallery queues and cool off in the 800-year-old apothecary Officina Farmaceutica Profumo di Santa Maria Novella (Via della Scala 16). Potions dreamt up by friars include rose water that promises to ward off the plague. LUNCH You have to try schiacciata (a type of Tuscan flatbread). Join the queue outside Focacceria Pugi (Piazza San Marco 10; $6 per portion), reckoned to make the city’s best. On a piazza full of pigeons and Fiats, savour the crisp base topped with slithering porcini mushrooms, artichokes and lemon. Alternatively – while Florence is one of the few parts of Italy that doesn’t go in for pasta much – Quattro Leoni (Via de’Vellutini 1r; www.4leoni.com; mains from $23) near the Pitti Palace, does a fine dish of fiocchetti, pasta parcels filled with pear and asparagus in a cheese sauce. BETWEEN BITES Quattro Leoni is a mere olive’s flick from the statue of Cosimo de Medici’s dwarf, who sits potbellied on a tortoise in the Boboli gardens. Appropriately enough, he’s there to serve as a warning of the dangers of overindulgence. DINNER Diners at backstreet Trattoria Pandemonio (Via del Leone 50r; 00 39 055 224002) are here for bistecca alla Fiorentina ($58). The steaks weigh more than a kilo, are black on the outside, blue in the middle and made for sharing. Or trundle to Pane e Vino (Piazza di Cestello 3r; 00 39 055 247 6956; three courses from $45), for salmon with cigar-smoked pannacotta.
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STAY Riva Lofts (www.rivalofts.com; from $280 B&B) is a 20-minute walk from the centre of town and has apartment-sized suites and a pool. The Palazzo Magnani Feroni (www. florencepalace.it; from $375 B&B) has just 12 suites and is the city’s grandest B&B.
VENICE BREAKFAST A cappuccino and croissant at Al Marcà, the kiosk at the front of the Rialto market, sets you up for a spin past rainbow piles of fruit and slithering seafood. Or try the terrace at Algiùbagio (Cannaregio 5039, Fondamente Nuove; 00 39 041 5236084), watching the sun peek over the Dolomites before a day of island-hopping – the waterbuses for Torcello, Burano and Murano stop next door. BETWEEN BITES After decades under scaffolding, Palazzo Grimani (Ramo Grimani, Castello, www.palazzogrimani.org; tours $11, book ahead) has been newly opened to the public. The old palace is full of dusky-pink floors, marble doorways, and ceilings frescoed with larder goodies – veg, vines and rabbits. LUNCH For all you can eat, nowhere beats the $27 buffet at the new Taverna del Campiello Remer (Cannaregio 5701, Campiello del Remer; 00 39 349 336 5168): help yourself to jumbo asparagus, yellow frittatas and cauldrons brimming with pasta and risotto. Take a courtyard table for a ringside view onto the Grand Canal. If you’d rather pick, Al Bacareto (Calle delle Botteghe 3447; 00 39 041 528 9336; plates from $1.50) does great deep-fried sardines and mini-plates of risotto. BETWEEN BITES One building that doesn’t take a siesta is the Frari (entry $3), in the San Polo district. This lofty Medieval barn is home to portraits by Titian and Bellini, as well as bafflingly intricate carvings.
TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
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TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
DINNER An unsolicited starter of paper cones filled with deep-fried courgettes sets the nothing-is-too-much-trouble tone at Antiche Carampane (Rio Terà delle Carampane; www. antichecarampane.com; mains from $35). Seafood specialities include spaghetti del doge (pasta with spider crab), and, when in season, le moece (lagoon crabs). Alternatively, there’s La Zucca (Santa Croce 1762, Ponte del Megio; www.lazucca.it; mains from $20) for pine walls and a veggie-friendly menu. Try the pumpkin flan. STAY Ca’Sagredo (www.casagredohotel. com; from $375 B&B) is a 15th-century palace on the banks of the Grand Canal with rooms decked out in damask silk and frescos. Palazzo Soderini (www.palazzosoderini.it; from $120 B&B) is 10 minutes from St Mark’s Square, and has just five stylish rooms.
GENOA BREAKFAST Sugar and caffeine come with a touch of class at Klainguti in Piazza Soziglia. Try one-time-regular Verdi’s favourite: a hazelnut-crème-filled ‘Falstaff’ pastry. Genoa’s most heavenly cappuccino is served at Il Caffè degli Orefici (Via degli Orefici 25r). BETWEEN BITES Both cafés are in Medieval Genoa, a fascinating warren of towering palazzi. Don’t miss the jauntily striped 12thcentury Duomo di San Lorenzo. The Museo di Sant’Agostino ($5.50), in Piazza Sarzano, houses prize Medieval sculptures. LUNCH It’s time for pasta. Try the taglierini neri con gamberi (black pasta with prawns) at La Berlocca (Via dei Macelli di Soziglia 45r; mains from $21), in a former bakery. Or, sit at communal tables at Trattoria da Maria (Vico Testadoro 14r; 00 39 010 581080; three courses from $14) for the cheapest threecourse lunch in town (try fish soup and ravioli with walnut sauce). Arrive at noon, before the good stuff runs out.
‘Try one-timeregular Verdi’s favourite: a hazelnut crème-filled “Falstaff” pastry’ BETWEEN BITES A very different Genoa lies a short walk from both these lunch spots: the gilded Baroque city of the 17th century, built when the city’s financiers controlled Spain’s treasure fleets. Stroll down Via Garibaldi, ‘the Golden Way’, and Via Balbi, and visit at least one of their sumptuous palaces (Rosso, Bianco, or Reale) to study the works of the Italian and Flemish Grand Masters. When you’ve had your fill, ride the funicular up to Righi, to take in the panoramic views over the great port city. DINNER Romantic Voltalacarta (Via Assarotti 60r; 00 39 010 831 2046; mains from $25) has an imaginative menu based on the seasonal produce of the area – the tuna with sesame and greens is absolutely delicious. Be sure to book early for charming Antica Osteria di Vico Palla (Vico Palla 15r; 00 39 010 246 6575; mains from $18), which specialises in stoccafisso – the classic Ligurian dried-cod dish. It’s near the rows of palms and showy yachts in Porto Antico, which is perfect for a postprandial stroll. STAY The Bentley (www.bentley.thi-hotels. com; from $390 room only) is a new boutique hotel with art installations and tropical showers. Hotel Major (www.hotelmajorgenova. it; from $95 room only) is central and has clean, modern rooms. Previous page: Venice’s Grand Canal at dusk. Clockwise from top left: Royal Palace, Genoa; Bistecca alla Fiorentina; The Florence skyline; A hearty, rustic fish soup.
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ROME BREAKFAST Romans usually kick things off with a thimbleful of espresso. Antico Caffè Greco (Via Condotti 86) is where Keats and Casanova used to hang out (though not together). Alternatively, take a seat outside the lovely Caffè della Pace (Via Della Pace 3/7) and soak up the more leisurely atmosphere around Piazza Navona. BETWEEN BITES The best museums are often the smallest – the house where Keats died (Piazza Di Spagna 26; www.keats-shelleyhouse.org; $5.25), next to the Spanish Steps, is redolent of the doomed poet’s personality. And in the Palazzo Doria-Pamphilj (Via del Corso 305; www.doriapamphilj.it; $13), you’ll find everything from a Caravaggio canvas to a preserved corpse. LUNCH No cuisine in the world is as vibrantly plebeian as Rome’s, a hangover from having to feed an overabundance of cardinals. All that
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was left for the poor was the ‘fifth quarter’, meaning the offal, off-cuts, head and tail. Sora Lella (Via di Ponte Quattro Capi, Isola Tiberina; www.soralella.com; mains from $24), on tiny Tiberina island, offers traditional fare such as rigatoni con la pajata (pasta with calf’s intestines). They take neither reservations nor credit cards at Da Augusto (Piazza dei Renzi 15; mains from $12), in Trastevere, and the dishes are as straightforward as pasta with cheese and pepper, but certainly no less memorable for it. BETWEEN BITES After lunch, a walk. The grounds of Villa Borghese, at the top of the Spanish Steps, are dotted with secret flower gardens and fountains. But plan ahead if you want to visit the art in Galleria Borghese (www. galleriaborghese.it; $13) – they won’t let you in without a reservation. DINNER Head to the area around the mattatoio, the city’s first slaughterhouse.
‘No cuisine in the world is as vibrantly plebeian as Rome’s’ Checchino dal 1887 (Via di Monte Testaccio 30; www.checchino-dal-1887.com; mains from $27) occupies a tunnel hollowed out of an ancient Roman rubbish mound. Brightly lit, utilitarian, but deeply serious about food, it offers classics such as abbacchio alla cacciatore (lamb cooked with anchovies). Or try cheaper Felice (Via Mastro Giorgio 29; mains from $18; no reservations): in the cooler months they serve carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes), once a favourite dish in the city’s ghetto. STAY In Trastevere, the Santa Maria (www. htlsantamaria.com; from $260 B&B) has simple rooms with floral furnishings built
TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
around a courtyard. Hotel Panama (www. hotelpanamarome.com; from $145 B&B) is a 15-minute taxi ride from the Spanish Steps, in the pretty Parioli district. Some rooms have balconies and parkland views.
BOLOGNA BREAKFAST Central Bologna is full of lavish bar-cum-patisseries offering cappuccinos and gooey cakes. Idle over a certosino (spicy fruit cake) with honey and pine nuts at Pasticceria Impero (Via Indipendenza 39). For a rocketfuel-strength caffeine hit, take a trip to Caffè Terzi (Via Oberdan 10) and sample its goldmedal-winning coffee. BETWEEN BITES Caffè Terzi is around the corner from the Torri Pendenti, the two enormous leaning towers that mark Bologna’s historical centre. Start your morning’s sightseeing at the cavernous Basilica di San Petronio, in Piazza Maggiore, and then stroll
over to the Archaeological Museum (Palazzo Galvani; www.comune.bologna.it; free) – it’s stuffed full of art from the Etruscan period (11th-1st century BC). LUNCH Tamburini (Via Caprarie 1; mains from $11) is one of the Quadrilatero market’s bestloved institutions (it’s located just off Piazza Maggiore). Here, refined dishes such as ricotta and parsley tortellini are served up cafeteriastyle – great for casual dining. The best place for indulging in the traditional five courses is Da Cesari (Via de’Carbonesi 8; 00 39 051 237710; mains from $30), behind the basilica – here you’ll discover what real pasta alla Bolognese tastes like. BETWEEN BITES Most of Bologna’s best bits are within walking distance of each other. For paintings, head to the Pinacoteca Nazionale (Via delle Belle Arti 56). And don’t miss Santo Stefano (Via Santo Stefano 24), a fascinating Medieval complex.
Clockwise from left: Tagliatelle with Gorgonzola and walnuts; Villa Sciarra’s secret garden; Scooting around in Bologna; Rome’s Flavian Amphitheatre; Checchino dal 1887.
DINNER As the name implies, at Trattoria Il Tartufo (Via del Porto 34; www. iltartufotrattoria.com; mains from $39), they throw truffles on everything – tortellini, risottos and thick fillet steak. Dining in Bologna will always be an education on how tortellini and pasta ought to taste, even in less expensive places such as the Antica Trattoria Spiga (Via Broccaindosso 21; 00 39 051 230063; mains from $18), where pasta with walnuts and Gorgonzola is a treat. STAY In the centre of things, Orologio (www. art-hotel-orologio.it; from $255 room only) has extravagant breakfasts and free bicycles. In the Quadrilatero market, Albergo delle Drapperie (www.albergodrapperie.com; from $102 room only) has cutely decorated rooms with frescoed ceilings.
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Kitchen confidential
Where do our top chefs eat when they’re relaxing in Italy? Read and digest… Antonio Carluccio, celebrity chef and author
Where’s the best place to eat in Italy? The slow food movement started in Turin. It’s a reaction against fast food – everything is made from local, high-quality ingredients. The idea has taken off globally, but it’s still most prevalent in the Piedmont region. Make sure you get off the beaten track – there are some amazing restaurants hidden in obscure places. In the ancient town of Monforte d’Alba, Trattoria della Posta (Località Sant’Anna, 12065; www.trattoriadellaposta.it) looks as if it hasn’t changed in 50 years and serves a knock-out ravioli. What’s your favourite dish? There are too many! But if I had to choose,
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it would be risotto with white truffles. You’ll find great risotto in the restaurants of Piedmont and Lombardy. Ristorante Al 24 (Via Montebello 24, 10124 Torino; www.paginegialle. it), in Turin, is one of the best. They do two of my favourite dishes: risotto with truffle and grilled heads of porcini mushroom. People often make the mistake of thinking that Italian food is just cannelloni and spaghetti, but there are countless dishes, including donkey, that I’d recommend. Which ingredients do you always take back with you on the plane? Olive oil, basil, garlic, Parmesan and pecorino cheeses, and anchovies in tomato sauce. The best food markets are in Florence: at the Mercato Centrale San Lorenzo, you can buy several different types of artichoke. Porto Palazzo in Turin and Il Capo in Palermo are great, too, and Naples and Venice have excellent fish markets.
Where’s your favourite beach? There’s an island called La Maddalena, just off Sardinia’s northeastern tip, where the water is very clear and a wonderful green colour. It’s just two kilometres from mainland Sardinia, so easily done as a day trip. I stay at Su Gologone (www.sugologone.it), in the mountains near Oliena in central Sardinia – the hotel restaurant serves up fantastic food using local ingredients. And for dessert? Caffè Torino in Turin (Piazza San Carlo 204; www.caffe-torino.it) does a delicious chocolate dessert called Piedmontese gianduiotto – it’s a local speciality, made from sugar, cocoa and hazelnuts, and it’s shaped to look like an upturned boat. Clockwise from below left: The waters of northeastern Sardinia; Su Gologone’s dining area; Jewel-hued wares at a Sardinian street market. Opposite page, clockwise from left: Fresh cannoli; Varese; Mixed antipasti.
TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
Giorgio Locatelli, TV chef and Michelin-starred restaurateur What do you most look forward to when you go back home? My home town of Varese, in Lombardy, is a great place to unwind. There are castles, Belle Epoque villas with sumptuous gardens, and lakes that are perfect for boat trips on sunny days. I eat at our family restaurant, La Cinzianella (Corgeno Via Lago 26, Corgeno di Vergiate; 00 39 033 194 6337), now owned by my cousins. It’s got a huge terrace with views of Lake Comabbio. I go for rabbit with freshwater prawns, or lavarello – a type of lake fish. And I always return, preferably by boat, to the charming Il Ristorante Belvedere, overlooking Lake Maggiore (Via Piave 11, Ranco, Varese; www.hotelristorantebelvedere. it), for perch with almonds followed by marinated peaches.
What’s your favourite dish? Risotto with white truffles, when they’re in season, is incomparable, especially at La Ciau del Tornavento, near Alba in Piedmont (Piazza Baracco 7, Treiso; www.laciaudeltornavento.it).
‘There’s no menu; the owner simply recites what’s fresh that day’
Where’s your favourite holiday spot? For the past eight years we’ve been to Menfi, a quiet, rural area with beautiful beaches near Agrigento, on the south coast of Sicily. The people are welcoming and the fish is fantastic – at the tiny port of Scitta you can watch it come straight off the boat. There’s no menu at Da Vittorio, in nearby Porto Palo; the owner, who looks remarkably like the French 19th-century novelist Balzac, simply recites what’s fresh that day. There’s always amazing antipasti: stuffed sardines, fried sea snails, and pettine (tiny scallops) served with a sauce of capers, black olives, vinegar and olive oil, followed by a huge seafood spaghetti.
there’s a long, white beach backed by pine trees. La Pineta (Via dei Cavalleggeri Nord 27; 00 39 058 660 0016) is an elegant blue-andwhite shack right on the beach. It’s owned by a fisherman who does wonderful, fresh-fromthe-sea dishes such as langoustine baked in salt, and fleshy gurnard with potatoes, olives and tomatoes.
Do you have a favourite beach? In Marina di Bibbona, on the Tuscan coast,
Which ingredients do you always take back with you on the plane? I get capers, olive oil and fresh cannoli (creamfilled pastries) from Sicily, and when I’m home in Varese, I buy amaretti biscuits as well as gnocchi from Pasticerria Gnocchi (Via Varese, 17 Gallarate; 00 39 033 179 6537). It’s very fresh – hard on the outside but deliciously soft inside.
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‘I would go to the Amalfi Coast in September: it’s quieter, the water’s still warm, the fruit is ripening and the mushrooms and walnuts are coming out’
Gennaro Contaldo, executive chef, author and Jamie Oliver’s mentor How would you spend your ideal day? I have five-year-old twins who love going on picnics. When the sea’s calm, we take a rowing boat from Ravello. Halfway between Amalfi and Minori, there’s a cove between the rocks where there’s just enough room for one family to sit. We take lots of fresh bread, Parmesan and baked aubergine. Where’s your favourite place in Italy? I was brought up on the Amalfi Coast, and it hasn’t changed since I left. When I go back there I feel like I’m a boy again. There are lots of tourists in summer, but even the most popular spots, such as Ravello and Positano, are still beautiful. The people haven’t changed either – the restaurants serve local dishes and grow their own vegetables. The local
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produce is amazing. My friend was out catching huge octopuses the other day, and incredible lemons grow there too. If I could only go at one time of the year, it would be early September – it’s quieter then, but the water’s still warm, all the fruit is ripening and the walnuts and mushrooms are starting to come out. And your favourite restaurant? Giardinello, in my home town of Minori (Corso V. Emmanuele 17; 00 39 089 877050), a few kilometres from Amalfi, started out as a little family-run place – now it’s really famous. Two brothers, Giovanni and Toni, run the place and their mum helps in the kitchen. Eating there is always a joy – they only cook fresh, local food. Order baked grouper on spaghetti with tomatoes. Or go for the pizza – they make just three types: marinara (seafood), classic margherita and a four seasons topped with whatever’s in season. For pudding, nearby Pasticceria De Riso (Piazza Cantilena 28; www.deriso.it) does an amazing syrupy pear and ricotta cake.
If you had to leave Amalfi, where would you choose to go? Sicily. I like the seaside! Lipari and Panarea are lovely little islands off the north coast. The locals are chatty and never fail to make you feel at home – and there’s lots of wonderful fish, meat, very good cakes and beautiful cheese. On Panarea, try Antonio il Macellaio (Via San Pietro 20; 00 39 090 983033) where you can get delicious chargrilled meats and aubergine, courgette and pepper antipasto. Which ingredients do you always take back with you on the plane? At one time I’d come back with a suitcase full of food, but these days I can get everything I need in the UK – the delis here are so good. That said, I still bring back my family’s homemade stuff, and chestnuts. I love chestnuts. I pick them at the end of the summer and then stuff them inside a bag full of sand, wrap it up and bury it in my garden. They stay fresh for months. Every so often, I dig some up and roast them or make a wonderful chestnut cake.
TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
Theo Randall, Chef Patron at the InterContinental London Park Lane Where would you go on a foodie roadtrip in Italy? There are loads of brilliant little trattorias around the towns in Piedmont. I’d go in the autumn, when the whole place comes alive with the arrival of the white truffle. One of my favourite dishes is bagna cauda – a kind of fondue made with a creamy anchovy sauce. And you can’t go far wrong at Da Cesare (Via San Bernardo, 9; 00 39 173 520141): it’s a charmingly old-fashioned stone house in the tiny village of Albaretto della Torre, in the south of the region, with lacy tablecloths, wildflowers on the tables and a roaring open fire. The best dishes are the pheasant salad
with pomegranate and shaved truffle, and risotto laced with veal jus and a special ewe’s cheese from nearby Bra. Where’s your favourite beach? Marsala, in northwest Sicily, has calm waters, a sandy beach and beautiful sunset views of the neighbouring island of Favignana. Eat at nearby La Pinetta (Via Punta Cantone di Selanute; 00 39 092 446820) – it’s right on the beach and has canopied wooden decking and a menu dictated by the latest catch. Last time I went I had boiled octopus with capers and lemon. Where’s your favourite Italian holiday spot? We stay in an apartment in a grand farmhouse on the Fontodi estate in pretty Panzano. It’s in the heart of the Chianti region and even the pool is completely surrounded by grapevines. The food and markets in the area are fantastic
– there’s a famous butcher in Panzano called Dario Cecchini (Antica Macelleria Cecchini, Via XX Luglio II) who sells bistecca a la Fiorentina from the Chianina breed of cow. It’s the most amazing beef in the world – try it grilled with rosemary. And there’s a great lounge nearby called Il Vinaio (Via Santa Maria, Panzano Alto 22; 00 39 055 852603) that serves deliciously simple antipasti under brick alcoves. What’s your favourite dish? Risotto marinara made with an intense fish stock and topped with a generous mix of mussels, prawns and langoustines cooked in olive oil, garlic and chilli. The best version I’ve ever eaten was at Osteria d’Oste Scuro, in Verona (Vicolo San Silvestro 10; 00 39 045 592650). Opposite from left: Fruit – including lemons – thrives in the region; The western coastline. This page, clockwise from left: Tuscan landscape; Fresh truffles; Beef with rosemary.
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Seasons’ eatings
You can always get a decent bowl of pasta in Italy, but there’s a time – and a place – for the rarer treats. We’ve found five worth planning your holiday around. ROMAN ARTICHOKES Regular artichokes fill Italian bellies throughout winter in southern Italy, while their superior northern cousins – known as carciofi Romanesca – are in hibernation. Biding their time, these prized vegetables hide from the cold, soaking up goodness from the rich soil of the countryside surrounding Rome. Then, some time in mid-May, piles of violet artichokes turn up on the region’s market tables – a sure sign that spring has finally sprung. Spend the morning in the hills surrounding the city, savouring the hazy vista over the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea, then head back down for lunch. Find them: In Campagna di Roma, from midMarch to mid-May. How to eat them: Whole. Chefs usually have to peel back the harder outer layers of an artichoke, but those from the Campagna di Roma are so tender they can be eaten in their juicy entirety. Taste them: Carciofi Romanesca are typically soaked in lemon juice and stuffed with garlic, breadcrumbs, herbs and, sometimes, minced meat, and then baked in olive oil. They’re best enjoyed at Ristorante Piperno (Monte dè Cenci 9; www.ristorantepiperno.com; mains from $20), a 149-year-old haunt in the oldest part of Rome. Cook them: Italian Gourmet (www.italian gourmet.com) has cookery courses run by best-selling cookery writer Diane Seed from her home in the capital; each day starts with a morning market trip to stock up on fresh goodies. Stay at Antico Casale (www. anticocasalediroma.com; from $103 B&B), a quaint 19th-century pile in a quiet corner 15 minutes’ drive from Rome Fiumicino airport. Buy them: Trestle tables creak under the weight of ripe fruit and vegetables at Campo de Fiori
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market in the centre of Rome. You’ll have to bargain hard – it’s the best vegetable market in town and the stallholders know it.
SEA URCHINS Spring’s not the best time to eat fish from the Mediterranean: breeding season means some seafood can be almost impossible to come by. Some seasonal treats can still be found, though – purple-black sea urchins proliferate along the coast between Naples and the toe of Italy, but the best place for them is Sicily. After you’ve poked around the glittering palazzi of Palermo, the island’s capital, head to the beach for a dip, and you’ll see them adorning the rocks in clusters, like spiky, salty marshmallows. Just watch where you tread! Find them: In Sicily, from April to May. Taste them: In the pretty, jasmine-scented ‘secret garden’ at Palermo’s Kursaal Kalhesa (Foro Umberto I, No 21; www.kursaalkalhesa.it; mains from $8) you can scoff sea urchins tossed in olive oil and garlic on linguine, served up with shavings of salted swordfish roe. Cook them: Tasting Places (www.tastingplaces. com) can set you up in a frescoed villa in Menfi, southwest Sicily, with tuition from an acclaimed chef on how to prepare fresh ingredients (ask if sea urchins will be on the menu). Buy them: It’s much more satisfying to gather them from rockpools yourself. Look for the larger specimens (the bigger, the tastier); cut them open, drench with squeezed lemon and scoop out the flesh with a crust of fresh bread. All you’ll need is a pair of gardening gloves, scissors and a hearty appetite.
WHITE TRUFFLES The beauties of Piedmont are so rare they’re almost mythical – and prized so highly that
TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
‘Urchins adorn the rocks in clusters. Cut them open, drench with lemon juice and scoop out the flesh with fresh, crusty bread’
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TOTAL GUIDE | FOODIE ITALY
in 2007 a gang of masked highway robbers held up a well-known truffle hunter as he travelled along one of the region’s breezy byways (the gourmet bandits made off into the hills with 400g – worth up to $2,250). Truffles aren’t the only treasures to be found here at the foot of the Alps, though; there are also 17 lovingly preserved residences of the Savoys (Italy’s former royal family). Most are castles and villas in the Piedmont countryside – and all, of course, come with enormous kitchens just begging to be used to prepare a feast. Find them: In Alba, Piedmont, from September to December. Taste them: Experiencing Italy’s elusive ‘white gold’ doesn’t come cheap – a simple risotto with shavings could set you back $30. But 15km from Alba, Villa Tiboldi (Case Sparse Tiboldi 127, 12043 Canale; www.villatiboldi.it; mains from $23) has a reasonable seasonal menu – the truffle and quail salad is particularly good. Cook them: Arblaster & Clarke (www. arblasterandclarke.com) can arrange for you to go on a truffle hunt and a trip to the landmark Alba truffle market. Buy them: Haggle with truffle traders over fist-sized specimens at the Alba White Truffle Fair, in the centre of town. It’s an open-air feast and market in one, and takes place every Saturday and Sunday from early October to early November.
Images courtesy of www.tastingplaces.com and www.italiangourmet.com
CHESTNUTS When you think of Tuscany, chestnuts don’t generally spring to mind. You imagine rolling terracotta landscapes, cypress trees waving in the summer breeze and afternoons spent munching grapes by the pool. Come autumn, those rosy plains are still warm and, better still, they’re liberated from summer crowds cluttering the view – meaning it’s the ideal time for daytrips to Siena and Florence, or rambling in the woods. Chestnuts rain down among amber leaves in the area’s forests every October, and these are the cream of the From left to right, top to bottom: Wild chestnuts; Visiting Tuscany Market with Tasting Places; Opening a raw sea urchin; Risotto with truffle shavings; Roman artichokes start to appear in the markets from mid-May; Claudio Pecorari from Tasting Places teaches pupils; Cooking with Diane Seed; Herb-crusted mussels; Fresh vegetables at market.
chestnut crop – superior marroni the size of voluptuously rounded new potatoes. And here they’re not just used for roasting – they flavour pastas and puddings, or are mixed with raisins, oil and rosemary to make creamy chestnut paste for pastries. Find them: In Tuscany, in October. Taste them: Melt-in-the-mouth chestnut and porcini mushroom tagliatelle is the dish of the day at Antica Fattoria del Grottaione (Via della Piazza; www.anticafattoriadelgrottaione.it; mains from $13). It’s in the little Medieval town of Montenero d’Orcia, and the local Avanzati family have been running it since 1848. Cook them: Organic Tuscany (www. organictuscany.org) has cookery courses focusing on traditional, rustic recipes such as chesnut polenta. Buy them: Head to one of the many chestnut festivals that take place locally in October and November. There’s a lovely market in Marradi every Sunday in October, selling treats including chestnut-blossom honey and chestnut-andricotta-stuffed pasta.
The brief Getting around By plane: Air Italy (www.airitaly.eu) serves 13 destinations across Italy, including Sicily and Sardinia. EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) connects Milan Malpensa with Rome, Naples, Bari, Brindisi, Lamezia, Olbia, Cagliari, Catania and Palermo. Meridiana (www.meridiana.it) serves 16 airports including Catania, Naples, Olbia, Venice and Verona. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) links all 22 Italian airports it serves. By train: Trains run between every major town, as well as to Sicily via Rome and Naples (sea crossing included in ticket price). Check times and book the cheapest fares with Trenitalia (www.ferroviedellostato.it). Alternatively, try Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com). By boat: The main ferry company is Tirrenia (www.tirrenia.it). Boats for Sicily leave Naples and dock in Palermo (crossing takes around eight hours). You can also sail from Genoa, Civitavecchia, or Naples to Sardinia. By car: Try Avis (www.avis.com) or Hertz (www.hertz.com).
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KWT PROMOTION
CELEBRATE EID AT INTERCONTINENTAL ABU DHABI Despite megaproject attractions being built elsewhere in the city to draw tourists to the UAE’s capital, downtown Abu Dhabi remains the emirate’s prize asset. Come Eid, its beautiful corniche will be alive with celebration, and by staying at the majestic InterContinental Abu Dhabi you’ll be at the heart of the festivities. While here, don’t miss out on all that this wonderful hotel has to offer, whether you want to take its complimentary shuttle service to Marina Mall to bag an Eid bargain, relax on its pristine private beach, enjoy a divine massage, or dine at its outstanding restaurants, which rank among the city’s finest.
IN THE KNOW Want to get out and about in the UAE capital? Nader Elkari, Chief Concierge at InterContinental Abu Dhabi, is the man who knows all…
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The Sheikh Zayed Mosque is a national treasure that should not be missed. Complimentary guided tours are available Monday to Thursday, commencing at 10am, and if you plan to visit remember to dress in modest clothing which must cover the arms and legs. Ladies must also wear a headscarf, although this can be provided for you.
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Take a half-day desert safari, the ultimate desert experience, which begins with an exciting drive over the sand dunes and concludes with a BBQ dinner and entertainment under a starlit sky. Magnificent.
CHEFS’ SELECTION Don’t miss out on the gourmet delights on offer at InterContinental Abu Dhabi. Here, the hotel’s top chefs pick out their must-try dishes…
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t Chamas, you can enjoy a truly unique dining experience: there’s a huge selection of all-you-can-eat barbecued meats, and poultry is delivered to your table on outsized skewers alongside an array of traditional Brazilian side dishes. At the Belgian Beer Café, it has to be the mussels: try them topped with a velvet-smooth sauce of fresh cream and Roquefort, along with a hunk of fresh baguette. Over at The Yacht Club, tuck into beautifully flavoured, wok-fried yaki udon noodles, laced with crisp vegetables and succulent slices of prime beef tenderloin.
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Falcons are stitched into the fabric of life in the UAE and the Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital is dedicated to their wellbeing. It’s a fascinating place which you can take a tour of and a great choice for kids.
OUR OFFER TO YOU… Book a double room from only $135 per night, or a suite from only $245 per night. Children under 12 can stay for free in their parents’ room, or you can book an additional room for the kids and enjoy a 25% discount on the room rate if you’re a GCC resident or national. Please call 00971 2 666 6888.
KWT PROMOTION
CHEF’S SELECTION Al Bustan Palace InterContinental Muscat is home to an array of top-notch restaurants. Enjoy the pick of them by taking Chef Jean Luc Amann’s dining tour… Start out at our exquisite Chinese eatery China Mood with an order of Beijing roast duck backed with a selection of dim sum. It’s a tough job to single out something at this restaurant, but the dim is to die for. Next, head over to Beach Pavilion for its magnificent seafood platter, which comes freshly plucked from the Gulf of Oman and cooked to your liking. Stay here to enjoy a scoop or three of Bedouin delight – an ice-cream served with warm espresso, cream, dried fruit and mixed nuts. It’s absolutely delicious.
IN THE KNOW Yaqoob Al Balushi, Chief Concierge at Al Bustan Palace InterContinental Muscat, knows all about the city. These are his favourite places to visit.
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ENJOY EID AT AL BUSTAN PALACE INTERCONTINENTAL MUSCAT With its stunning architecture, rocky mountains and heavenly beaches, the Sultanate of Oman is the perfect destination for your Eid break. It’s a peaceful, culturally rich country which boasts one of the oldest civilisations in the Arabian Peninsula and offers much to enjoy. The beautiful Al Bustan Palace InterContinental Muscat, which stands aside a rugged mountain range and the glistening, endless ocean, is Oman’s finest hotel, an incredible resort that’s unique to the Gulf region and a genuine must-stay for in-the-know travellers. Here you can experience true serenity, whether strolling through gardens or powder-soft sand, or floating gently in the shaded lagoon. It’s the ideal escape and you’ll remember it long after leaving.
The renowned Souk of Muttrah is a colourful and busy market which offers an authentic Omani experience. You’ll pass stalls trading in silver ornaments and traditional handicrafts. Just remember to haggle.
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You must take the opportunity to visit His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said’s Al Alam Palace in Old Muscat. This magnificent building was built between 1995 and 2001. Whilst at The Royal Palace, catch a glimpse of the 16thcentury Portugese forts Al Jalali and Mirani.
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Grab the chance to explore Omani heritage by visiting the The Bait Al Zubair Museum and the Bait Al Baranda Museum. The Bait Al Baranda Museum offers detailed information about the ancient history and civilisation of Oman, whereas the Bait Al Zubair Museum is the place to view traditional Omani weaponry, jewellery and costumes.
OUR OFFER TO YOU… Stay at Al Bustan Palace InterContinental Muscat for two nights and get the third night free. The same offer is available at the neighbouring InterContinental Muscat or further afield at the Crowne Plaza Salalah, and includes early check-in, late check-out and a complimentary room upgrade. At the Crowne Plaza Sohar, you can book a room plus breakfast and dinner from just $180 per night. Book by calling the hotels directly.
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KWT PROMOTION
IN THE KNOW Local expert and Chief Concierge at Semiramis InterContinental Cairo, Ossam Reda Fayez, tells us what to see in this historic city.
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The Egyptian Antiquities Museum is walking distance from the hotel and an absolute must-see for visitors to Cairo. It’s home to the world’s largest collection of Ancient Egyptian artifacts, including Pharaoh Tutankhamun’s tomb collection and the incredible royal mummy room.
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You can’t visit Cairo without taking a cruise along the Nile. Feluccas are local sailing boats which you can rent out to enjoy a private sail. Don’t forget to bring your camera to record what is a unique experience.
HAVE AN EID TO REMEMBER AT SEMIRAMIS INTERCONTINENTAL CAIRO There are no more fascinating cities in the Arab world than Cairo. Here’s where you’ll find remarkable remnants of Egypt’s ancient past housed within myriad rooms at the Egyptian Museum and, better still, in the guise of the Sphinx and Giza’s towering pyramids. Stay at the iconic Semiramis InterContinental Cairo and you’ll also take in unobstructed views of Egypt’s other historical marvel, the River Nile, which flows mere metres from the hotel. Here you can spend your days (post-sightseeing) relaxing in the Jacuzzi, pool or steam room and your evenings enjoying authentic Egyptian entertainment or dinner and drinks at what are some of the city’s finest restaurants and lounges. CHEFS’ SELECTION Allow the Semiramis InterContinental Cairo’s team of super chefs to guide you through their restaurants’ finest offerings. If you like your food to come with a kick, head to Bird Cage, where our team of experienced chefs cook up the most incredible Thai flavours. Try the fiery Keang Kuoa Koong Sapprarod: juicy shrimp and pineapple in a red curry sauce served with a soothing pot of steamed rice. For French cuisine at its traditional best, book a table at The Grill and order the decadent roast beef fillet topped with duck foie gras, or if you’re in the mood for wholesome Italian fare, try the exquisite veal scallop drizzled with lemon sauce at Pane Vino.
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Take a walk down El Moez Le Din Allah Street in Islamic Cairo, where you’ll be amazed at the many Islamic monuments and mosques which line each side of this alwayslively street.
OUR OFFER TO YOU… Stay for five nights over Eid and only pay for four. Offer valid from September 9-17 and terms and conditions apply. To book, call 002 02 27957171.
KWT PROMOTION KWT PROMOTION
EXPERIENCE EID IN JEDDAH
IN THE KNOW
From the crystal-clear Red Sea which laps at its shoreline and the designer boutiques that line Tahlia Street, to the magnificent artworks at the outdoor museum and the age-old buildings in its old quarter, there’s something for everyone in Jeddah. Stay at the InterContinental Jeddah and you’ll have a base next to the Red Sea from which to explore the city’s myriad charms. It’s a luxurious place that offers guests unique experiences like dining at Spears restaurant, where tender meats are served on gleaming swords. Crowne Plaza Jeddah is another perfectly positioned hotel – you can witness the world’s largest fountain from your room – and a great option if you’re travelling with kids, who can eat for free in any of the hotel’s restaurants if aged six or under.
Fahad Zelai, Chief Concierge at InterContinental Jeddah and a long-time Jeddah local, on how to make the most of your time by the Red Sea.
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Be sure to take a trip to Jeddah’s excellent Open Air Museum, where you’ll find over 400 sculptures fashioned to portray the country’s rich history and heritage. For a true slice of history, visit the area known as Old Jeddah for its aged buildings and The Abdul Raouf Khalil’s Museum, which showcases tens of thousands of historical treasures.
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You won’t be able to miss the King Fahd Fountain; after all, it is the biggest in the world, and seeing it spurt high – over 300 metres in fact – into the sky is a genuinely wonderful sight.
FAMILY FEASTS Chef Olivier Nuttinck picks out his favourite family food at Crowne Plaza Jeddah. Whatever the weekday, Crowne Plaza Jeddah lays on a wealth of dining options for all the family to enjoy. Parents will adore the plump, pillow-soft lobsters grilled to perfection at Al Zahra each and every Tuesday, where jumbo sea shrimps freshly caught from the ocean are an equally tempting attraction. It’s Friday’s fabulous long lunch that the kids will love best: it offers kids’-own, specially prepared dishes and a huge play area as entertainment. But the real family must-have is the irresistible chocolate fondue, a true hotel favourite.
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If you’re a fan of the water, you can’t leave Jeddah without taking a dip in the Red Sea. Here you’ll enjoy some of the best diving in the world, with clear waters teeming with exotic fish and vibrant coral.
OUR OFFER TO YOU… Stay for 5 nights at the InterContinental Jeddah and we’ll give you 2 extra nights absolutely free. At the Crowne Plaza Jeddah, kids under the age of 12 can also stay for free when sharing a room with their parents. www.ihg.com/7for5 or www.intercontinental.com/7for5
Six Senses Zighy Bay is secluded on Oman’s northern Musandam Peninsula - a 90-minute drive from the Dubai International Airport. It is designed with 82 pool villas, including the Retreats, the Reserve, and a private marina. The dramatic setting has mountains on one side and a beach on the other. The Six Senses Spa focuses on holistic wellness and rejuvenation. It offers a full menu of treatments delivered by skilled international therapists. Guests have a choice of arrival experiences which include a scenic drive down from the top of the hill, a 15 minute speed boat ride or the choice to travel as a companion passenger with the Hideaway’s professional paraglider! For Eid holidays, please visit www.sixsenses.com for all the sensational offers available!
Winner of the Middle East’s Leading Luxury Beach Resort 2010 Winner of the Oman’s Leading Resort
Musandam Peninsula, Sultanate of Oman T: +968 26735 888 E: reservations-zighy@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com
CONCIERGE Tasmania | Moscow | Copenhagen | Chiang Mai
THE 30-SECOND CONCIERGE
MARC LACOSTE, SAFFIRE FREYCINET, TASMANIA What makes Saffire unique? Firstly, our superb location: we’re positioned on protected land on the Freycinet Peninsula. Our suites combine classic Eames furnishings with more intriguing contemporary pieces; our guests tell us our rooms are like nothing they’ve seen before. All 20 suites enjoy uninterrupted views of the Hazards mountains, five granite monoliths which rise 450m above sea level. I encourage guests to enjoy a bath at sunset – it’s a magical moment. Is there much to see and do in the region? Although we offer a plethora of onsite facilities, the main attraction is ‘out there’. We offer guided bush walks over undulating terrain and through
the mountains, beyond which lies one of the world’s top 10 beaches. Our helicopter can take you to Barnbougle Dunes, Australia’s number-one golf course; alternatively, head to nearby Schouten Island, catch some fresh abalone and watch as Executive Chef Hugh Whitehouse cooks it for you. What sort of food can I eat at Saffire itself? Hugh came to us from his two-hat restaurant in the Blue Mountains. His cuisine is clean, fresh and uncomplicated, but he’ll prepare anything the guest desires. Interestingly, Tasmania grows outstanding truffles – and if you want to go and harvest your own with Hugh, that’s not a problem. www.saffire-freycinet.com.au
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller
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Russia
VISIT MOSCOW
Fallen heroes and $50 million restaurants form the backdrop to this city on the up, writes Ele Cooper.
M
oscow is not a city of restraint. Fairytale buildings, the imagination-provoking façades of which are invariably accompanied by suitably dramatic histories, are juxtaposed with almost rudely modern glass-andsteel skyscrapers. A coffee will set you back more than a three-course meal in other cities. There are more billionaires here than anywhere else in the world. And let it be said that its people are not the friendliest: English is not widely spoken and many tourists find themselves on the receiving end of a police demand for papers – and money – at least once during a trip here. But, strange as it sounds, it’s worth it. The buzz is palpable: change is afoot and residents are, for the most part, embracing it. While the city’s history is a source of fierce pride, the relentless march of modernity is seeing disused warehouses being converted into cutting-edge galleries and sushi becoming as popular as a hearty stroganoff. In other words, Russia is booming – and Moscow is at the epicentre of the action. Go and get a piece of it. 66
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MOSCOW MUST-DOS Your first stop has to be the Red Square (the cobbled stones of which are actually black). Flanking the plaza are the State Historical Museum, the Kremlin – which looks like a cross between Ali Baba’s dream palace and Hansel and Gretel-bait – and… Lenin’s Mausoleum, which is no architectural shrinking violet itself. It has housed the embalmed body of Marxist revolutionary Vladimir Lenin since 1924 and is worth a visit, if only to add your voice to the debate over whether it’s really him (www.aha.ru). If you’re after souvenirs, hit kitsch haven Old Arbat Street – but clothes shoppers should head straight for Tverskaya Street, which is lined with classy boutiques and
cafés. Come night time, mosey to New Arbat Street, where the glitterati and best eateries are. The main stage of the magnificent Bolshoi Theatre, where Swan Lake premiered in 1877, is closed for renovations until 2013, but try and catch a show in the new theatre (www.bolshoi.ru). When the Soviet Union collapsed, statues of Stalin, Brezhnev and the ferocious Dzherzinsky were removed from their pedestals and dumped in what has become known as the Garden of Fallen Monuments (www.muzeon.ru). Nowadays, evil dictators are somewhat outnumbered by the modern sculptural additions from the Tretyakov Gallery (www.tretyakov. ru), which shares the space.
CONCIERGE | MOSCOW
Opposite: St. Basil’s, Red Square. This page, clockwise from left: Ralph Lauren furnishings lend the Bolshoi Restaurant a classy vibe; Dining at the Bolshoi; RitzCarlton Moscow; The State Historical Museum.
WHERE TO STAY
COLOUR BLIND: The metro may be the best way to explore the city but don’t pay any attention to the colours used on maps, as they’ll often be different to the ones on corresponding signage. SHOW ME THE MONEY: Moscow is the economic capital for one sixth of the world’s land mass – that’s a heck of a lot of Russian Rubles. CARB CONUNDRUM: Atkins dieters be warned – bread is served with every meal and you’ll be thought mad if you don’t have at least one slice.
Turandot
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Bolshoi Theatre
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Sadovoye Kol’tso
Bolshoi Restaurant Ritz-Carlton Moscow
Red Square a naberezhnaya tskay kvore
Mos
aya
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Turandot 26 Tverskaya Boulevard, Building 5, 007 495 739 0011. Ever wondered what a $50 million restaurant looks like? Wonder no more: it’s a 14-room marble dome rife with homages to Louis XVI, the Ming Dynasty and Imperial Russia, and a serious amount of gold. Oh, then there are the waitresses decked out in period-style gowns, serving you sushi, foie gras and oysters. The ultimate in decadence. Mains from $35.
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Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy Kosmodamianskaya nab., 52, Building 6, www.swissotel.com. A sleek, modern hotel with excellent Amrita Spa (we love the atmospheric indoor pool), the Swissôtel boasts a fantastic restaurant in the form of Kai, which dishes up French-Asian fusion cuisine, and an award-winning lounge called City Space offering panoramic city views from its topfloor position. From $420 B&B.
WHERE TO EAT Bolshoi Restaurant 3/6, Building 2, Petrovka ul, 007 495 789 8652, www.novikovgroup.ru. Ivory columns, modern art and Ralph Lauren furnishings provide a tasteful setting for this Russian/ French restaurant. Michelin-starred chef Kamel Benamar creates dishes such as veal with stuffed cabbage, scallops with sweetcorn puree, and borsch, made with fresh, crunchy vegetables. Mains from $100.
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Ritz-Carlton Moscow Tverskaya Street 3, www.ritzcarlton.com. Over 30kg of gold was used in the lobby of this new (but classically styled) hotel, and the bedrooms exude the refined class synonymous with Ritz-Carltons all over the world. Its location, overlooking the Kremlin, is second to none, and there’s a sleek ESPA spa as well as a bath butler service to ensure those bubbles are just right. Head to Caviarterra for top local fare. From $670 room only.
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August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 67
Denmark
VISIT COPENHAGEN You’ll never feel blue in the Danish capital, where warm charm and vibrant art reign, says Dennis Maloney.
F
irst impressions can be deceptive in Copenhagen. The centre’s straightforward enough: clean, wealthy and understatedly elegant, like so many of its lucky residents. Venture further afield, though, and you’ll find a younger, edgier Copenhagen, as once-downat-heel areas undergo a renaissance. The city centre is a paean to Nordic good taste, preserving the best of the old, while forging ahead in art, design and architecture. Wander the Medieval byways and it’s easy to imagine Hans Christian Andersen walking along, lost in a reverie of little match girls. But just a stroll away, by the waterside, is the uncompromisingly Modernist extension to the Royal Library. Out of the centre, you’ll discover districts that aren’t quite so spotless: the mixed neighbourhood of Nørrebro has a proud tradition of political radicalism. Its hub is the café quarter surrounding Sankt Hans Torv – here you may meet the Crown Prince, a regular in its lounges. Then there’s edgy Vesterbro, home to the city’s best night spots… 68
Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
COPENHAGEN MUST-DOS On Strøget, three shops bear the warrant of Queen Margarethe: porcelain store Royal Copenhagen (Amagertorv 6); designer emporium Illums Bolighus (Amagertorv 10); Georg Jensen (Amagertorv 4), a posh jeweller. The latest addition to Tivoli Gardens is Copenhagen’s most talked-about opening in years: its famous white pavilion has become Nimb (Bernstorffsgade 5; www. nimb.dk), a complex of highend hotel, plush restaurants and Løgismose, a tip-top organic deli. The once-polluted harbour has been so thoroughly cleaned that the water is now pure enough to swim in. Check out Havnebadet, a complex of five pools with lifeguards and sunbathing decks.
Once you’ve taken in the city centre, head out to Nørrebro. Danish design doesn’t usually come cheap, but this edgy neighbourhood is unbeatable for second-hand boutiques. Vesterbro’s Designer Zoo (Vesterbrogade 137; www.dzoo.dk) shows how today’s young guns are building on – and rebelling against – the traditions of 20th-century design greats. It’s both workshop and showroom for a community of eight, who design furniture, jewellery, glass and knitware. After dark, explore Vesterbro’s meatpacking district: the city’s feistiest nightlife is among the warehouses. Head for Jolene (Flæsketorvet 81; www.myspace. com/jolenebar) and make friends with the in-crowd.
CONCIERGE | COPENHAGEN
Opposite: Nyhavn by sunset. This page, clockwise from top left: Copenhagen Opera House; Pavement restaurant in Graabroedretorv; Skt Petri’s airy rooms; High-end dining at Noma; Black Diamond Royal Library.
HAPPY DAYS: Polls reveal Danes to be the world’s happiest people. There’s even a Danish word to sum up their blissful state: ‘hygge’ or ‘contentment’. CARB CHECK: In Copenhagen there’s no such thing as a Danish pastry – it’s called Wienerbrød, confusingly meaning ‘Vienna Bread’. SIN CITY: More film villains have been produced here than in any other European city. Both Le Chiffre and Mr White from Casino Royale were born here, among others.
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Royal Copenhagen Georg Jensen
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Kong Hans Kaelder
Illums Bolighus Gy ld
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Strøget
Noma
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Radisson Blu
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Black Diamond Royal Library Jolene
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Kong Hans Kaelder Vingaardsstræde 6; www.konghans.dk. Set in a vaulted cellar, this eatery is pricey but Chef Thomas Rode Andersen’s award-winning dishes, including roasted monkfish with pearl rye, will convince you it’s worth it. Mains from $90.
Hotel Skt Petri
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Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Hammerichsgade 1; www.radissonblu.com. Design types flock here as it’s an Arne Jacobsen architectural masterpiece. Book room 606 for the authentic experience – it’s furnished exactly the way he designed it in the ’60s. The lobby is resplendent with his special ‘Egg’ chairs. From $340 B&B.
WHERE TO EAT Noma Strandgade 93; www.noma.dk. Experimental alchemy and trad cooking combine here: think fur throws, exposed brickwork, harbourside setting and a numberone ranking in the 2010 World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards. Specialities include lobster with pickled rosehip. Degustation menu from $160.
Nø rre
WHERE TO STAY Hotel Skt Petri Krystalgade 22; www.hotelsktpetri.com. Housed in a former department store, Skt Petri is brilliantly located just off the main shopping drag, Strøget, with crisp, contemporary rooms and hardwood floors. From $255 room only.
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August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 69
Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel offices, find one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality...
BAHRAIN Abu Obeidah Avenue Wroad No. 302 Manama Tel. 17 576950 Air Canada/Austrian Airlines/Polish Olympic Airways/Sudan Airways/ Sas/Swiss Int’l/Tunis Mahooz Tel. 17 828770 Air India Manama Tel. 17 220788 Airport Office Bahrain Tel. 17 321325 Al Moayd Tower Manama Tel. 17 220220 Awali Branch Sitrah Avenue Road No. 4522 Tel. 17 756487 British Airways Manama Tel. 17 220701 Cyprus Airways Manama Tel. 17 220849 Egypt Air Manama Tel. 17 220747 Kanoo Holidays Mahooz Tel.17 828802 Kanoo Travel Refinery Tel. 17 755012 Lufthansa Mahooz Tel. 17 828763 Mahooz Tel. 17 828754 Qantas/Jetabout Manama Tel. 17220743 Thai International Mahooz Tel. 17 828771
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EGYPT Alexandria Booz Allen 1 Youssef El-Shazly Street Roushdy, Alexandria Tel. 002 03 5459265
1 Wahib Doss Str. Office No 9, Maadi Tel. 002 02 27513930
Kanoo Travel Rabigh Tel. 02 423 2785
Srilankan Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2959
Kanoo Travel Taif Tel. 02 736 4211
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Alexandria 14 May Str, Sayadlia Building, Symoha Tel. 002 03 424 1050
FRANCE Bureau de Change Kanoo Printemps Dept. Store 64 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris Tel. +33 1 4282 4181
Aswan Abtal El-Tahrir Street Corniche El-Nil Tel. 002 097 2306983
Foreign Exchange 11 Rue Scribe Paris 75009 Tel. +33 1 5300 9897
Air Canada Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2996, Ext. 190
Cairo C/O Halliburton Overseas Ltd Kilometer No 10, Land No 30 Ein Sokhna Road North Kattamia, Cairo Tel. 002 02 27591690
Foreign Exchange 11 Cours de I’Intendance Bordeaux 33000 Tel. +33 5 5600 6336
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Dr. Kamal Hussin Heliopolis, Cairo Tel. 002 02 26251307 El Areesh C/O Mfo, Northern Sinai Tel. 002 068 3502868 Heliopolis Business Travel Centre 33 Nabil Elwakkad St Heliopolis, Cairo Tel. 002 02 4130375/6
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Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
SAUDI ARABIA WESTERN PROVINCE Kanoo Centre Medina Road, Jeddah Tel. 02 661 4950
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Albishar Commercial Centre King Abdulaziz Street Al Bahar, Yanbu Tel. 04 322 1087 Al Nawa Commercial Centre Al Sinnaiyat, Yanbu Tel. 04 321 3607 Bab Makkah Jeddah Tel. 02 644 9030 Bamaroof Centre Hail Street, Jeddah Tel. 02 653 0541 Gulf Air Jeddah Tel. 02 668 0303/669 Kenyan Airways Jeddah Tel.02 263 2959 Ext. 108 Khamis Abha Main Road Khamis Mushayat Tel. 07 222 3624 Philippine Airways Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2959 Ext. 100/122
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Gulf Air Khobar Tel. 03 896 8496/ 9393/8493
EASTERN PROVINCE Kanoo Building Corniche Road Jubail Tel. 03 362 2340
Gulf Air Dammam Tel.03 835 4194/4917/4952
Kanoo Holidays Retail Airline Centre, Khobar Tel. 03 882 2206/2601/2249 Kanoo Holidays Wholesale Airline Centre Khobar Tel. 03 8821626/1851/ 8820161 Kanoo Tower King Saud Street, Damman Tel. 03 833 9793 Airport Office Dammam Tel. 03 883 2660/2660
Gulf Air Qatif Tel. 03 852 9384/ 854 5240 Gulf Air Rastanura Tel. 03 667 8041/7972 Gulf Air Hofuf Tel. 03 585 3358/ 4080/2252 Gulf Air Jubail Tel. 03 363 0982/84 Hertz Khobar Tel. 03 882 2005/5597
Air India Khobar Tel. 03 882 2478
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Kanoo Travel Medinah Tel. 02 263 3040
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British Airways Dammam Tel. 03 835 5714
Kanoo Travel Sharafiya Tel. 02 643 9426
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British Airways Jubail Tel. 03 362 1069
United Airlines/Air Canada/Singapore Airlines/Swissair/Austrian Airlines Tel. 03 882 1518/2962/ 2602/03 882 4477/4442
CONCIERGE | BOOK YOUR TRIP
WIN A TWO-NIGHT STAY AT THE RITZ-CARLTON DUBAI A dusky pink, low-rise resort located on a prime stretch of beach next to Dubai Marina, the Ritz-Carlton Dubai combines tasteful rooms, an expansive network of swimming pools and a sumptuous spa. The dining options are excellent too: highlights include Italian restaurant Splendido, which serves a marvellous Friday brunch, and an opulent indoor majlis which will be dishing up first-class Iftars and Sohours throughout Ramadan. THE PRIZE We’ve got a two-night stay including breakfast to give away to one lucky reader. To enter, simply email your answer to the following question to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com.
Q. In which restaurant does the Ritz-Carlton Dubai serve Friday brunch? a) b) c)
Lobby Lounge Splendido Amaseena
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Entries must be submitted on or before August 31, 2010. Prize cannot be transferred to a third party or exchanged for cash. Prize must be used before March 31, 2011.
47th Street Rahima Tel. 03 667 0388 CENTRAL PROVINCE Kanoo Tower King Abdul Aziz Road Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Kanoo Travel Naseem Tel. 01 232 8519 Airport Road Hail Tel. 06 543 0430
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Cardiff American Express 3 Queen Street Tel. 02920 649 305/ 02920 649 301
London American Express 78 Brompton Road Knightsbridge Tel. 0207 7617 900/908
Coventry American Express 5 Cathedral Lanes Shopping Centre Tel. 02476 225511/ 07872 600 528
London American Express 1 Savoy Court, The Strand Tel. 0207 240 1521
Croydon American Express 2-4 High Street Tel. 0208 256 0808/0805
London Credit Swiss First Boston American Express Travel Office Cabot Square
Canary Wharf Tel. 0207 888 4196 London Haymarket American Express 30 – 31 Haymarket Tel. 0207 4849 600/674 London Holborn Bureau American Express 156a Southampton Row Tel. 07872 600528/ 0207 837 4416 Manchester American Express 10-12 St Mary’s Gate Tel. 0161 833 7301 Milton Keynes American Express 670 Silbury Boulevard Tel. 01908 608 877 Nottingham American Express 2 Victoria Street Tel. 0115 924 7701/05 Plymouth American Express 139 Armada Tel. 01752 502 702/707 Sheffield American Express 20 Charles Street Tel. 0114 263 9305/08 Southampton American Express 99 Above Bar Tel. 02380 716 805/808 York American Express 6 Stonegate Tel. 01904 676 505
August 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 71
CONCIERGE | CHIANG MAI
Suite dreams
Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand
Thai palaces are truly remarkable sights: their roofs have more tiers than a wedding cake; the carvings and hand-painted tiles adorning them are as delicate as a baby’s skin; and they’re invariably embellished with lashings upon lashings of gold. The Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai draws upon this decadent style in its myriad villas and mini-complexes, the vibrancy of the surrounding paddy fields only adding to the resort’s splendour. This, the Deluxe Two-Bedroom Residence, is perhaps the most glorious dwelling of the lot: with gold roofs and gold silk, its design inspiration came from the palaces of Mandalay. A serene private pool connects the king and twin rooms, plus there’s a whirlpool tub, in-room massage area and spiral stairway leading from the living area to the secluded first-floor retreat. We suspect the King of Thailand would approve. www.mandarinoriental.com
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Kanoo World Traveller August 2010
Now open
From beach to bedtime, life’s a breeze.
Avail of our special opening rates starting from AED 499* Set on the bustling Jumeirah Beach Walk, in the heart of new Dubai, and connected to the white sands of Jumeirah Beach by a private walkway, is the newly opened Amwaj Rotana Hotel. With stunning sea views from each of the 301 deluxe rooms and suites, a private swimming pool and a state of the art Bodylines health & fitness centre, family time could not be easier. For exceptional and relaxed dining, choose from an outstanding selection of outlets such as American-Japanese Benihana, Rosso Italian restaurant and Horizon, offering world cuisine. Treasured Time...Our promise to you
* The above rate is valid until September 9, 2010 and is subject to availability. Price is subject to 10% service charge and 10% municipality fee. Terms & conditions apply. P.O. Box 86834, Dubai, UAE, T: +971 (0)4 428 2000, F: +971 (0)4 434 3666, reservations.amwaj@rotana.com