Kanoo World Traveller_Feb'13

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

8

FEBRUARY 2013

heart-tugging escapes in the GCC Produced in International Media Production Zone

Puerto Rico

The Latin flavour well worth savouring

Animal Charm

Why your kids would love a Kenyan safari

Düsseldorf

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IN

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w ee k M end ille s nn tay iu a m tt Du he ba Gr an i A

Bali Sophie Lam heads to the authentic heart of luxury

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Germany’s go-to city for culture

SoPHIStIcAted leISuRe At tHe fIneSt AddReSS In QAtAR Escape to an exclusive beach with private oceanfront cabanas.

Slip into an Olympic-size pool or take a dip in the inviting blue waters of the Arabian Gulf.

Revel in water sports that excite or soothe, arranged by a St. Regis Butler. Savor flavors from ten extraordinary restaurants including Gordon Ramsay, the master chef’s signature ode to Qatar. The joy of leisure redefined by The St. Regis Doha.

Come, explore.

al gassar resort at west bay stregisdoha.com 974.4446.0000

a legacy of luxury . now at over

30

of the world ’ s

finest hotels africa europe ©2010–2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

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asia

the middle east

stregis.com

Kanoo World Traveller

Welcome to the issue

As we all accustom ourselves to 2013 and prepare to bid farewell to the cold weather, I would like to welcome you all to our February issue. As always, my team and I look forward to helping you experience the most memorable journey.

In this issue we take you from Germany’s bourgeoning city of Düsseldorf, also known as the ‘Knightsbridge of the Rhine’, to the mustvisit city of Kosice, this year’s European City of Culture. And from the beauty of Bali to the plains of Kenya, for a novel idea of where you can take the kids this half term holiday. As always, we’re giving you the chance to win yourself a luxury weekend away, this time in Dubai at the Grand Millennium hotel.

I take this opportunity to announce that January has been a particularly special month for Kanoo Travel as we celebrated the success of 2012, and I thank every associate in the company for their hard work and dedication. I also extend my thanks to our valued customers who have remained loyal and supported us through difficult times. I congratulate our Divisional Travel Management team and the Kanoo Travel UAE team for the successful launch of Kanoo’s newest and finest Corporate Contact Center in Karama last month, the customer feedback received has been extremely encouraging.

Enjoy the issue. nabeel Kanoo Director Kanoo Travel

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 3

KaNOO WOrld TravEllEr FEBRuARY 2013

CONTENTS TRAVEL BiTES 07 check in

We look at the GCC’s most romantic destinations and marvel at the history of The Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong

18 competition

Win a weekend break for two at the Grand Millennium Dubai Hotel

20 Where to stay

Head to Barcelona for hip hotels and architectural wonders galore

52

26 picture this

Feast your eyes on these unbelievable destinations, guaranteed to tempt...

66 Visit: rio De Janeiro

Rio’s incredible landscape and carnival spirit are irresistible, says Leah Oatway

68 Visit: carDiFF

Wales’ capital is a city destination to be reckoned with, as KWT discovers

72 suite Dreams

Blissful seclusion and high-end Arabian luxury await guests of the Royal Villa at Doha’s Sharq Village and Spa

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40

FEATuRES 33 kenya A family safari to hidden game park Laikipia dispels security preconceptions

40 kosice This year’s co-capital of European culture has an intriguing history

44 bali

Sophie Lam unravels the traditional Balinese code for living

52 puerto rico

Fran Yeoman explores the cultural tugof-war taking place across the island

60 DüsselDorF

Germany’s business hub has a host of luxurious treats for weekend visitors

Woman in traditional clothing, carrying baskets of animal fodder, through rice terraces

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Managing Director: Victoria Thatcher

Editor: Leah Oatway

Senior Advertisement Manager:

Editorial Director: John Thatcher

leah@hotmediapublishing.com

Stefanie Morgner

Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick

Designers: Adam Sneade, Vanessa Arnaud

stefanie@hotmediapublishing.com

chris@hotmediapublishing.com

Production Manager: Haneef Abdul

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Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.

Jan-Jun 2012 22,953 BPA Consumer Audit Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 5

CheCk in | news

CHECK IN

BE INformEd, BE INspIrEd, BE tHErE global

GET A ROOM The GCC region is ripe with romantic destinations to suit all tastes this Valentine’s…

AtLANtIs, tHE pALm, dUBAI

sIX sENsEs ZIGHY BAY, omAN

Those looking for an intimate and magical place to hide away this Valentine’s would be hard pressed to find a more secluded spot than an underwater suite. Descend into the three-storey Neptune or Poseidon suite at Atlantis, The Palm, and you will find yourself immersed in a fairytale. Floor-towall windows in the bathroom and bedroom reveal the imagined underwater ruins of a lost and ancient city along with its spellbinding inhabitants: tens of thousands of brightly coloured fish, including piranhas, as well as sharks, eels and seahorses. With a butler on hand to cater to your every need, you may never want to resurface. Atlantisthepalm.com

It has never been difficult to find romance in this secluded Omani paradise, with its sandy white beaches, dramatic mountain backdrop, private villas and award-winning spa. But this Valentine’s Day, Six Senses Zighy Bay is pulling out all the stops to ensure couples feel the love. Having washed away city stress with a dip in the private plunge pool of your luxury villa, any lingering aches or stress knots will melt away following an hourlong rose-oil and hot stone massage, and 30-minute rose-infused facial. End the night with an aphrodisiac course-by-course dining experience, at sunset, overlooking Zighy Bay. Irresistable. Sixsenses.com

February 2013 Kanoo World traveller 7

INTERCONTINENTAL DUBAI FESTIVAL CITY, DUBAI Nothing says romance quite like a candlelit dinner and nowhere offers a romantic dinner quite like Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire. With its waterfront setting, opulent décor - think pink chandeliers, mother-of-pearl walls and plush fuschia seating - and a three-Michelin star chef overseeing the menu, this ultra chic restaurant is the perfect place to show the foodie in your life you care, with a five-course dinner guaranteed to fill hearts as well as stomachs. Walk off dinner with a late night stroll along the banks of the historic creek, before retiring to the palatial comfort of the Royal Suite. Intercontinental.com

MADINAT JUMEIRAH, DUBAI

ST REGIS, DOHA

Picture the scene: you arrive at the Madinat Jumeirah, check in and find yourself being whisked away in a Rolls Royce to the nearby Burj al Arab, where a helicopter is waiting for you on its rooftop. You depart on an enchanting sky tour. Back at the Madinat, a team of top chefs has prepared a private dinner for you on a terrace adorned with your favourite flower. A classic trio sets the mood and the evening is captured by a professional photographer. When dinner is over, you retire to the Presidential or Royal Suite. Madinat Jumeirah is offering Dubai residents this exclusive Valentine’s date: grand gestures don’t come much grander. Jumeirah.com

From the airport greeting service that ensures a swift and trouble-free arrival to the 24-hour butler service on hand to cater to your every whim, everything about the St Regis’ Presidential Suite promises a truly A-list Valentine’s experience. Reserve an exclusive cabana and unwind on your private sundeck before retiring to your three-room, two-storey suite. After a soak in one of the super deep bathtubs, you can toast your relationship from the private rooftop terrace overlooking the turquoise waters of the Gulf.

A stay at this plush Middle Eastern gem is sure to leave you with that loving feeling.

Stregisdoha.com

QASR AL SARAB, ABU DHABI

PARK HYATT, JEDDAH With breathtaking views of the Red Sea and the world’s tallest fountain (King Fahd’s fountain) dancing in the moonlight, the Royal Suite of Jeddah’s Park Hyatt hotel is the perfect city escape this Valentine’s. Ask the ever hospitable staff to add an extra touch of romance to your stay and you’ll arrive to a room adorned with roses, candles, chocolatedipped strawberries and more. Add to that a delicious room service menu and there’s no reason to leave the blissful cocoon of your suite. For those able to tear themselves away, indulge in hydrotherapy at the hotel’s spa or shower your loved ones with gifts at the onsite shopping mall. Jeddah.park.hyatt.com 8 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

As dreamy Arabian landscapes go, few can rival the unspoilt majesty of Liwa desert, with its rolling golden dunes and starry night sky. The former home of the ruling Al Nayan family, Liwa is also home to one of the country’s most luxurious resorts: Qasr Al Sarab. Which is good news for those looking to enjoy an Arabian adventure this Valentine’s Day. Unwind with a dip in the free-form pool or take a romantic camel ride across the dunes before dining amidst the amber dunes, with your own private butler to serve you, as the sun sets on this postcard-perfect setting.

Qasralsarab.anantara.com

HOTEL MISSONI, KUWAIT The style lover in your life is guaranteed to fall head over heels at this glamorous and uplifting designer abode. With its warm Italian hospitality, trademark multicoloured stripes, geometric patterns and florals, Missoni’s Kuwait hotel provides the perfect setting for a playful and luxurious Valentine’s weekend. Drink in the ocean views over a mocktail from the comfort of the daybed on the vast terrace of the Suite d’Oro. After a sumptuous dinner at the ultra chic Luna restaurant, slip into a comfortable and much-coveted Missoni robe and slippers and relax with a film from the complimentary collection. Perfection. Hotelmissoni.com

uK

Reaching new heights

The wait is over. The must-see landmark of 2013, London’s The Shard, is finally open to the public. KWT takes a look…

More than a decade after plans for The Shard were first announced, the building that has redefined London’s famous skyline forever is finally open to the general public.

Standing at 310 metres, the colossal lightreflecting tower is now Western Europe’s tallest building. In a city filled with historical

architecture and internationally renowned landmarks, it would take something pretty special to capture the imagination of its spoilt-for-choice inhabitants. So the fact that The Shard is already considered a must-see landmark of 2013 speaks volumes for the success of Italian Master Architect Renzo Piano’s ‘vertical city’. Towering above the city’s London Bridge Quarter in the swanky South Bank district, the razor-sharp structure boasts offices, restaurants and residences. And, at twice the height of any other viewing platform in the city, the views

are spectacular. Take a “kaleidoscopic” lift to the 69th floor and you will be treated to a 360-degree view that extends more than 64 kilometres out to the coast and Windsor Castle on a clear day. Draw your eyes closer in and you will spot a plethora of London icons – including Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster.

Those brave enough to venture even further skyward, to The Shard’s highest habitable point on level 72, can stand in the open air above ground. While not for the faint hearted, from here, through the gaps, you can hear London’s streets. Wait until next month and you could improve your chance of experiencing the building’s spectacular views by opting to stay there. The fabulously luxurious Shangri-La Hotel opens its doors in March and, with 202 rooms occupying floors 34 to 53 of the tower, it will boast some of the best views of the city. What better location for the British debut of one of the world’s most opulent hotel brands?

Standing at just over 1,000 feet, The Shard is now the tallest building in Western Europe. KWT looks at how it measures up to the best of the rest around the world…

828 metres

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Eiffel Tower

10 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Shard

Empire State

Petronas

Burj Khalifa

hot offers

great escapes

Take your pick from this month’s best deals from Kanoo Travel

DISCOVER NEPAL 7 days, 6 nights From $665 p/p Enthusiastic explorers of culture will love this week-long immersion in Nepal’s diverse culture and topography – which starts the moment you touch down in Kathmandu. After checking in, you’ll head for dinner at Utsav restaurant, an authentic Nepalese restaurant filled with live music and dance.

What Nepal lacks in size it more than makes up for in heritage. You’ll experience the best of the country’s attractions – starting with Kathmandu Durbar Square, or Hanuman Dhoka Durbar, the ancient palace at the heart of the city. And then there’s the incredible landscape: take an optional flight over Nepal’s breathtaking mountain range to enjoy Everest, Annapurna and Langtang Himalayan range. Prepare to lose a day mesmerised by the monuments within the ancient city of Patan, known as the city of arts, before taking a short flight to Pokhara.

At Lake Side, you can marvel at the reflection of Mount Machhapuchhre on the freshwater Phewa Lake over a leisurely lunch and boat ride, before heading to Tiger Mountain Lodge for the night. After a morning at this tranquil haven, set above the Pokhara Valley, you’ll head to Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave. Scramble through a low tunnel and you’ll find yourself behind the deafening waters of Devi’s Falls.

Back in Kathmandu, there is just time to marvel at Nagarkot’s famous Himalayan views before heading to the ancient Newar town of Bhaktapur, filled with elaborately carved monuments, palaces and temples: a fitting end to an unforgettable Nepalese experience.

12 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

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MAGICAL MALAYSIA 3 nights in Singapore, 3 nights in Kuala Lumpur From $835 p/p Set your own pace on this Asian adventure, which starts in Singapore. The bustling metropolis offers the perfect city escape, with something for everyone: whether it’s some serious retail therapy on the city’s Orchard Road, with its vast array of luxury stores, or sampling the culinary delights on offer at the city’s many restaurants or cafes. Culture vultures have a plethora of museums and galleries to explore, while those looking to get closer to nature in the “Garden City” would do well to check out the world’s largest collection of orchids in its Botanic Garden. Come nightfall, go on a safari at the award-winning, cage-free rainforest zoo.

From here, it’s on to the bright lights and architectural delights of Kuala Lumpur. Not only is this city a shopper’s paradise, it also has its fair share of attractions – from the landmark Petronas Towers to the old British colonial buildings. Those looking to get out of the city for a day will find respite on the Genting Highlands tour. Just an hour out of the city, at 2,000 metres below sea level, this Malaysian hill resort nestled within the Titiwangsa Mountains offers a cooler climate than the often hot and humid city. Take a cable car ride to the resort, soaring through lush, green-forested highlands to the vast resort. Indulge your inner child at its outdoor theme park before returning to the comfort of your city hotel.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 13

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Historic Hotels

The Pearl of the Orient

This month, we head to Hong Kong to take a closer look at the illustrious history of The Peninsula Hotel, which has been at the top of its game for 85 years…

Hong Kong’s Grande Dame has seen some things in her time. A bastion of style and luxury since she opened in 1928, The Peninsula has survived war and military occupation, rubbed shoulders with royalty and welcomed Hollywood’s finest, past and present, into her ever hospitable fold. Eighty-five years and a stunning makeover later, Hong Kong’s only surviving historical hotel is still regarded as the best in the land.

The Peninsula’s fascinating story begins in the 1880s, when two members of the wealthy Kadoorie family – Ellis and Elly - left Bombay and travelled East to Hong Kong and Shanghai, respectively. A decade later, having experienced considerable success, Elly purchased shares in The Hong Kong Hotels Company Limited. It was to be the start of the Kadoorie family’s long-standing relationship with The Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels Limited, which continues to this day.

In the early 1920s, they decided to build a new hotel at the edge of Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour, or Kowloon. Perfectly located at the busy junction, where increasing numbers of wealthy ocean liner passengers and travellers on the trans-Siberian rail link disembarked, the Kadoories had one aim: to create the finest hotel east of Suez. In fact, it was to become one of the finest in the world.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 15

The hotel was officially opened, amid much excitement, in December 1928. Unsurprisingly, its opulence and grandeur created a stir among Hong Kong’s wealthy visitors, including the famous and titled, and the 1930s were a magical time for a thriving and modern Hong Kong and for The Peninsula, at the heart of this exciting destination.

This ended abruptly on December 8, 1941, when, mid-way through the Second World War, the Japanese attacked Hong Kong.

Volunteer Hong Kong Defence Forces, supported by British, Canadian and India forces, tried to resist the onslaught but were severely outnumbered. After ferocious fighting, British colonial officials, led by the governor of Hong Kong, Sir Mark Aitchison Young, surrendered to the Japanese on the third floor of the hotel on December 25, 1941. The capitulation, or surrender treaty, was signed the following day and the governor was reportedly confined for two months in one of the hotel’s suites before being deported to a Shanghai prison.

For the next four years, the Japanese ruled Hong Kong with an iron fist from the grand interior of the harbourfront hotel. Rooms and corridors once filled with affluent and excitable travellers were now home to Japanese officers and high-ranking dignitaries. Once targeted by well-dressed ladies looking to indulge in afternoon tea, for the duration of the war the hotel’s colonial façade became a prime target for allied attacks.

In April 1942, when the Japanese removed

16 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

street and building signs and renamed them in Japanese, The Peninsula Hotel became the “Tōa Hotel” (meaning ‘East Asia Hotel’).

Finally, on August 15, 1945, six days after the United States dropped the atomic bomb on Nagasaki, Japanese forces surrendered.

British sovereignty was restored in Hong Kong and The Peninsula Hotel took back its original name.

In the years that followed, Hong Kong’s Grande Dame was restored to her former glory. Signature style and grandeur in tact, she welcomed back the world’s finest dignitaries and celebrities. Among a heady list of

guests, which continues to grow, were former United States’ Presidents, Nepalese royals and Hollywood icons: from Marlon Brando to Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant to Elizabeth Taylor.

In 1970, the hotel bought its first fleet of seven Rolls Royce Silver Shadows. It was the largest single order for the esteemed car marque – a tradition that continues today with The Peninsula’s fleet of 14 Phantoms.

This partnership with the iconic British brand was to lead to another: four years later, in “The Man with the Golden Gun”, James Bond (played by Roger Moore) followed Scaramanga’s mistress Andrea Anders to The Peninsula Hotel to confront her. His assistant, Mary Goodnight, tells an impressed Bond about the hotel’s fleet of green Rolls Royces.

This was not to be the hotel’s last foray into film. Some 30 years later, in 2007, its helipad featured in the Batman blockbuster “The Dark Knight”. The helipad had been added to the hotel in 1994 as part of an expansion project that saw a 28-storey tower almost double the hotel’s capacity. Despite this modern addition, the colonial façade and decadent lobby and reception area remained untouched. Last year, to celebrate the hotel’s 85th birthday, a HK$450 million makeover of the hotel’s interior began. The redesign reflects Hong Kong’s passion for innovation and technology, while maintaining the classic elegance and style that has kept The Peninsula at the top of its game for almost a century. peninsula.com/hongkong

Hot offers

Win a weekend break at the Grand Millennium Dubai hotel

THE PRIZE A weekend stay for two people, including breakfast. To enter, email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com before February 28, 2013

Whether you choose to spend it trawling the aisles of the city malls looking for bargains, chilling poolside with a soft drink and your favourite book or indulging in some much-needed pampering; everyone could benefit from a weekend break at a luxury hotel. And there are few better bases from which to do so than the Grand Millennium Dubai hotel (home to 343 rooms and suites). Rejuvenate the senses with a dip in the five-star hotel’s outdoor pool before indulging in some well earned rest and relaxation at the Jasmine Spa: a Moroccon hammam will get your skin tingling, or opt for a massage in one of the spa’s nine treatment rooms. And, when night falls, there are several first-rate restaurants in which to dine - including Dante, where charming Italian fare is served with flair. Delicious.

18 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Q. What is the name of the Grand Millennium Dubai Hotel’s spa? a) Rose b) Jasmine c) Daisy Terms and conditions: Offer is valid for three months from March 1, 2013. Prior reservation is required. Not applicable during public holidays, special festivities, and promotions and not combined with any offers.

WheRe To STAy...

BARCeLoNA

With festivals galore, February in Spain’s second largest city is perfect for shaking off the last of those winter blues. Check out these stylish abodes

START

Period charm

Vintage beauty

OR OR

Historic treasure

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City style

Hipster chic

OR

Gran Hotel La Florida

Sleek

Grand Hotel Central

hotellaflorida.com

grandhotelcentral.com

Perched on Mount Tibidado, this 88-year-old hotel remains one of the best in the city, with the most spectacular view.

Just outside the city centre, this lovingly restored and historic hotel offers a peaceful and luxurious stay. And if it was good enough for Rock Hudson and Ernest Hemingway...

The rooftop infinity pool of this hip hotel, set in Barcelona’s fashionable Born district, offers magical views of the city’s Gothic area. With the most interesting places a short walk away, refuel after a busy day sightseeing by dining at the hotel restaurant run by awardwinning chef Ramón Freixa.

Modernist marvel

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Decadent delight

Artistic getaway

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Tranquil haven

Hotel Casa Fuster

El Palace

Granados 83

hotelescenter.es

hotelpalacebarcelona.com

derbyhotels.com

hotelomm.es

Steeped in architectural history and close to La Sagrada Família, you’ll find artists and intellectuals galore here. People watch over tea at the legendary Café Vienés.

Filled with the decadent glamour of a bygone era, this hotel is perfectly positioned to explore Las Ramblas and the most prestigious shopping area.

This hotel offers modern luxury with a distinct art deco flavour.

Marble, steel and glass meet bare brick and leather for a unique and stylish city getaway.

Its Asian-inspired lines, natural light and understated modern elegance provide an oasis of calm in a buzzing city.

Rejuvenate at the Spacciom spa.

20 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Hotel Omm

kwt promotion

luxury doha Experience Qatar’s most lavish hotel offerings

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 21

The St regis doha stregisdoha.com Whether it’s a club sandwich lovingly sprinkled with herbs and spices from Doha’s souk or an avant-garde dining experience at Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant, The St Regis Doha is the ultimate destination for foodies. With 10 very different dining options, heed advice from the hotel’s butler before delving into the delights on offer to ensure your meal choice satisfies your mood; rest assured there is something for everyone.

Dark and decadent, with modern furnishings and moody lighting, Hakkasan is on a mission to elevate authentic Chinese cuisine, particularly Cantonese, to the echelons of fine contemporary dining. And it is likely to achieve it: just indulge at its special Dim Sum Lunch on a Friday to see for yourself.

For an understated and elegant fine dining experience, head to Gordon Ramsay, headed

by Michelin-starred, Ramsay-trained chef Gilles Bosquet. A more relaxed, but no less special, evening can be found at Ramsay’s sister restaurant Opal: think bistro-style dining complete with two live gourmet pizza and raw stations.

Incredible steak and seafood is served with more than a pinch of retro New York dining at the Astor Grill. The restaurant is a tribute to John Jacob Astor IV, who founded the first St Regis Hotel in New York more than a century ago. And then there’s the best Lebanese restaurant in Doha – Al Sultan Brahim. The original restaurant, legendary for its fish dishes, was founded in Jnah, Beirut, in 1968 by the El-Ramy brother and now they have brought their unique culinary talent to Doha with this second restaurant.

A stay in Doha has never looked so appetising…

22 February 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

kwt promotion

The ritz-Carlton, doha ritzcarlton.com/doha

Those seeking all of the warmth and comfort of home, with all of the luxurious trappings of a five-star resort, need look no further than the Club and Suite experience at Ritz-Carlton’s stunning Doha property. Much like its home city, the hotel offers an alluring blend of the cultural and contemporary.

Whether travelling for business or pleasure, the hotel’s Club Level, on the 23rd floor, offers an exclusive, tranquil hideaway to retreat to. After a busy day, take the weight

off tired feet, sink into the plush surrounds of the Club Lounge and refuel in style with the Ritz-Carlton, Doha’s delicious afternoon tea - including signature scones, sandwiches, French pastries and the finest of teas. Here, sumptuous fabrics in warm inviting colours fuse with elegant touches of gold, creating the perfect ambience from which to enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the Arabian Gulf’s glistening turquoise waters and the property’s exclusive marina.

Retreat to your suite, reached only by keyed elevator access, and find yourself amid a secluded, opulent Middle Eastern haven rich in texture and colour: think silk wall coverings, handcrafted furnishings and regional artwork hanging on walls. Those able to muster the resolve to leave their suite should take advantage of the culinary presentations available throughout the day at the Club Lounge or venture to one of eight on-site restaurants for a meal to remember.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 23

Mövenpick Tower and Suites doha moevenpick-hotels.com For a room with a view, the discerning business traveller could ask for no better than those offered by the plush West Bay Suite at Mövenpick Tower and Suites Doha. Thanks to the five-star hotel’s enviable location at the heart of the prestigious and bustling business district, West Bay, an upper-floor suite of this futuristic-looking 26-storey tower commands spectacular views of Doha’s fast-growing urban landscape and the still waters of the Arabian Gulf beyond.

24 February 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

After a tough day of business in the city, a short journey sees you back within the sumptuous folds of the hotel, where the everhospitable staff are ready to serve you. Those feeling energetic, or with pent-up frustration to burn off, can take advantage of the hotel’s fully-equipped gym before unwinding in the sauna steam bath. Or, simply unwind with a facial treatment or massage at the Spa, or a calming dip in the indoor pool, before heading for a chic eat at West Bay’s popular

Wok Mee Noodle House. Satisfy a sweet tooth with cake and a refreshing drink at the Lime Café before walking off any excess with a gentle stroll along the Corniche.

Back in the luxurious confines of your suite, those with more work to do can take advantage of the state-of-the-art audiovisual technology, video conferencing facilities and ISDN/IP connections in each room before collapsing in your king size bed for the night. Perfect.

kwt promotion

Sharq Village and Spa, doha Operated by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company

Four villages dedicated to cocooning guests in blissful relaxation make Sharq Village and Spa the ideal escape when worldly woes become too much to bear.

The luxurious desert resort is steeped in Qatari tradition and history. White stone walls, candlelight, tranquil outdoor retreats with traditional Arabian furnishings and rippling water features make it all but impossible to leave its Six Senses Spa feeling anything but rejuvenated and utterly spoiled.

Take advantage of Six Senses’ commitment to SLOW LIFE (Sustainable Local Organic Wholesome Learning Inspiring Fun Experiences) by choosing a treatment that uses plants and herbs indigenous to the local area.

For a natural and authentic experience, try the ‘local journey experience’ and emerge with baby-smooth skin and a clear mind, having been scrubbed, cocooned and massaged back to life.

Soul uplifted and body cleansed, treat yourself to something sparkly at the village souq, recline on an outdoor majlis, take afternoon tea in the stylish surrounds of Al Jalsa, or do all three - it’s your holiday.

Watch the sun go down to the rhythmic soundtrack of waves lapping the private shoreline at the Sea Lounge before feasting on seafood at Al Dana restaurant, where fresh catches are cooked to your liking and served al fresco, under starry skies, with views of Doha bay.

Finally, retire to the stylish splendour of the Royal Villa with family or friends and talk into the night on its vast outdoor terrace. ritzcarlton.com February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 25

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sVALBArD isLANDs Norway, Europe

While this polar bear cuts a lonely figure on the meringuelike broken ice, in fact, the Svalbard Islands are believed to be home to one of the only expanding populations of the species in the world. As spring unfurls, the females will gingerly emerge from hibernation with their young cubs. While the polar bears’ hunting grounds are shrinking, Norway’s strict ban on the hunting of polar bears and much of their prey is believed to have contributed greatly to conservation efforts. With its incredible wildlife, which also includes the Arctic fox and Svalbard reindeer, and its breathtakingly beautiful, untouched arctic landscape, there is little wonder that Svalbard’s enchanting wilderness continues to spellbind all who venture into its midst.

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Picture this

stePtOe Butte Washington State, USA

To explore this luminous landscape, you will need to head to the Palouse region of the United States. A rich and unspoilt tapestry of green and browns, this 150-acre park is renowned for its stark, dramatic beauty and photographic qualities – particularly as spring approaches. On a clear day, stand at the top of the area’s 3,610-foot high butte and drink in the 200-mile panoramic view the natural monument provides. The Native Americans once referred to it as “the power mountain”, believing the mountain’s guardian spirit bestowed power on those who visited it. Steeped in history, keep an eye out for the hawthorne bushes they used to make medicines and baskets, as well the local wildlife, including deer, rabbits and hawks.

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Picture this

BLue POND Hokkaidō, Japan

The ethereal qualities of this brilliant blue pond and the larches that grow from within it have, unsurprisingly, earned it a cult tourist following in recent years. Hidden in the forest of Biei, Hokkaidō, the pond was created when a dam was built to protect the area from potential mudslides caused by nearby volcano Mount Tokachi.

Water blocked by the dam accumulates in the lower area of the forest. The awe-inspiring hue is believed to be caused by aluminium hydroxide present in the water that flows in from the Shirogane Hot Spring, scattering light.

But you’ll need to time a visit well: the pond is only this mesmerising colour when bathed in sunlight and winter is a no-go – it freezes over.

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

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Child’s play | Kenya

Child’s Play With better security now in place, Kenya can

still prove fertile ground for a family safari holiday

i

f he ever goes on to become a serious rugby player, my son can boast that he was first tackled by a cheetah at four years old. There he was, running across the grass at the centre of our bush camp, when the cheetah cub appeared from nowhere and – flick – brought him down with one paw.

For my wife and I, watching from 15 yards away, it was a heart-stopping moment. For the cheetah, though, we realised quickly, it was all part of a game, the kind of game played by a four-month-old, half-tame cat that has been rescued from the bush and sees a man-cub as a potential playmate. Our son was soon on his feet, without a scratch, the cheetah streaking off after some other moving

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 33

target. We could readily imagine what our friends would say when we told them what had happened.“Kenya? Are you really going to Kenya?” they had responded when we announced our holiday plans. “With two young children? What about all the terrorists? And the wild animals?”

I had last been to Kenya shortly after the 1991 Gulf War, flying in from Cairo after six glorious weeks in an Egypt that was emptied of tourists and where I had the pyramids and the Valley of the Kings virtually to myself. My experience in Egypt had left me asking myself where danger really lies. It also set me thinking about the way in which trouble in one region can drive tourists away from a whole country.

Kenya’s tourism industry has been suffering badly since last year when Somalia’s pirates, who had so far confined their attentions to ships, began targeting holidaymakers on the coast. In September 2011 pirates killed the Briton David Tebbutt and kidnapped his wife, Judith, at the Kiwayu Safari Village, 30 miles from the Somali border. The next month a disabled Frenchwoman was taken from Manda Island and died in captivity. Before we

Openning page: Cheetah cubs. This page, clockwise from top left: Local tribesmen; Sosian lodge; A safari stops under an Acacia tree; Impalas.

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Child’s play | Kenya

‘We could also raft, fish and cycle, and then refuel with sumptuous meals under the spread of acacia trees’ left home, last April, the advice was to avoid travelling within 150km (about 90 miles) of the Somali border. A week into our holiday, the advice was still to stay at least 60km (about 40 miles) from Manda, which is close to the betterknown island of Lamu.

Travelling by light aircraft across the northern Kenya bush after the first rains is like flying into the opening shot of a wildlife film.

We were heading for Laikipia, a vast range of once-thriving private cattle ranches that have dropped their fences to turn the region into Kenya’s great hidden game park.

Our first stop there, Sosian lodge, nestling in a valley to the south of the park, set the tone, with relaxed safaris not only in vehicles but on horseback or on foot. We could also raft, fish and cycle, and then refuel with sumptuous meals under the spread of acacia trees. It was refreshingly different from other national parks I had visited, where I had been ticked off for stepping out of a vehicle.

Michael Dyer, whose family has had a large influence on the establishment of the reserve and who owns the spectacular Borana Lodge, where we spent three days, told us: “We don’t want this to become the new [Maasai] Mara, with lines of vehicles crowding round a single lion. Here the client is on his own; you are not tripping up on people.” The sense of seclusion has drawn Prince William back year after year – it was within Laikipia’s precincts on the slopes of Mount Kenya that he proposed to Kate Middleton two years ago.

“I have been on foot safaris for five or six days without seeing anyone at all – you really can disappear,” said Michael, whose family also runs the Manda Bay hotel close to where last year’s kidnappings took place on the coast.

The hotel now has subtle but serious security in place, with radars to track incoming boats, plus infra-red cameras and armed security guards.

We knew our first morning in Kenya was going to be different when our host at Sosian, February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 35

Steve Carey, rifle over his shoulder, led us away from the lodge and into the bush. “Right, let’s find breakfast,” he said. My wife and I, with Charlie and Darcy (also aged four), in between, followed him in single file through the long grass. Along the way he pointed out the spectacular red-and-yellow lilies of the Gloriosa superba and fluttering green-veined charaxes butterflies.

Stomachs were rumbling when after an hour we spotted the deep red of a kikoy tablecloth under an acacia tree. Having a “bush breakfast” – the full monty served many miles from the nearest café – in the middle of the wildlife was a pleasure enhanced by service that was as friendly as it was attentive. Both adults and children slipped easily into being looked after by the staff, who took a genuine delight in childcare. Soon we felt less like guests and more like old family friends staying for the weekend.

Late one evening we went fishing. Across the water a herd of elephants munched and moaned as to the south a deep, dark sky flashed with blue streaks of lightning. In this charged atmosphere, Charlie landed his first-

36 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

This page: Elephants at a watering hole.

ever catch, squealing “I caught a fish” – and then, “Daddy didn’t.”

Two big advantages of Laikipia for those travelling with children are the absence of malarial mosquitoes and the cool of the altitude (6,000ft). The reserve avoids the long rains of spring, but does have heavy evening downpours that turn bush from brown to green in just a few days. The rain also clears the air, flattening the summer season’s dust.

Of more immediate interest to two four year-olds was the discovery that Pride Rock, a distinctive outcrop within Laikipia, had helped to inspire the animators of the film The Lion King. We had been walking for an hour near there, among elephants, giraffes, soldier ants, termites and the odd klipspringer, when our guide held up his hand. “Stop,” Tom Hartley said in a whisper, the .457 hunting rifle still

Child’s play | Kenya

‘Across the water a herd of elephants munched and moaned as to the south a deep, dark sky flashed with blue streaks of lightning’

balanced on his shoulder. For a moment nothing seemed to move among the waving milk grass and bushes. “Aardwolf,” Tom whispered, his tone telling us that this was an unusual sighting. One of these termite-eating animals, half cat, half hyena and with black and brown stripes, was sniffing the air 20 yards away. She was graceful in movement but also had the self-consciousness of a nervous dinner party guest. She stayed before us for a minute, then disappeared down the lush rolling hills.

There was not a whiff of man-made danger during our stay but there was the odd snarl, glower or growl from the animal kingdom.

Occasionally there were apprehensive childlike giggles when mother elephants or rhinoceroses closed ranks around their young. Inevitably, as the children had recently watched Madagascar, it was the young zebras and giraffes that got the most attention.

Less welcome were encounters with some of the creepy-crawlies. Charlie’s game of rock turning was gently stopped by Tom Hartley when the third rock turned out to be hiding a scorpion. Then there was the green snake (possibly a mamba) that whisked past us at the delightful corner of the Blue Pools tucked away in the Ngare Ndare forest – though that seemed more afraid of us than we were of it. In general, though, we had to be no more cautious with the children than we would have been near busy roads back home.

Each lodge in Laikipia offers arresting views, but Laragai, four hours’ drive to the east of Sosian, makes the most of them. At every strategic point there is a terrace, swimming February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 37

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Our last few days were spent on the hot sands of the coast in a splendid villa south of Mombasa, where there were a few more tourists than there had been in the bush, many of them from eastern Europe.

Though the Kenyan economy as a whole is booming, tourist numbers are down by 25 per cent – and by more on the coast – compared with a year ago. Stefania Cheli, owner of Cheli and Peacock, a safari company, told me he believes that the government could invest more in promoting tourism and cutting bureaucracy. “Tourism is the number one employer and earner of foreign exchange, but it’s not a voter issue, so the government has neglected reforms.”

Government failings aside, the biggest problem remains the perception that Kenya is a dangerous place to be a tourist. Cheli was critical of the website TripAdvisor for having had warnings in red on many Kenyan enterprises when trouble had essentially been confined to the coast. “Apart from the kidnappings,” he said, “Kenya has not lost a tourist to violence in 27 years.”

This page clockwise from top left: A bedroom at Sosian lodge; Sosian lodge restaurant; Giraffes snacking.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock; Supplied Text: Thomas Harding/ The Daily Telegraph/ The Interview People

pool or bedroom from which to take advantage of the scenery. From the long, wide double drawing room, with a fireplace at each end, we watched in awe as a deep, thick rolling mass of cloud came tumbling up the hill towards us like a crashing wave.

The children learnt a lot, too. Darcy, having seen fellow four year-olds in ragged clothes herding goats, agreed to give up one of her books and favourite dresses for those with much less. From then on, it seemed that everything we possessed was up for grabs.

Regularly, Darcy or Charlie would ask: “Can we give this to the children, too?”

Our third stop was at Lemarti’s Camp of luxury tents by the gushing Brown River (where Charlie had his encounter with the cheetah). Here, treks into the bush were led by Samburu tribesmen, armed not with rifles but with spears and clubs. They taught us about plants and their medicinal properties; they lit fires by rubbing sticks alongside elephant dung. It was also something to behold the sucking sounds and squeals of delight from the Samburu as they ate their treasured honey.

Child’s play | Kenya

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 39

Tale of the Centuries This intriguing city of Kosice, with it Slovakian and Hungarian heritage, is a fitting Capital of Culture

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Tale of The cenTuries | Kosice

K

osice, this year’s co-capital of European culture alongside Marseille, is one of those Eastern European cities where the authorities spent much of the 20th century renaming things.

Standing on Hlavna, the main street, outside the Opera House, I can see that the city’s Hungarian-speaking elite had the letters NSZ (the Hungarian abbreviation for National Theatre) carved on to its coat of arms for the grand opening in 1899. A more recent plaque on the opera house tells us that today it is known as the Statne Divadlo – Slovak for National Theatre.

It’s ironic that although the Hungarians and Slovaks had fought together to free Kosice from Habsburg rule, the Slovaks agreed in 1919 to be subsumed into Czechoslovakia, rather than Hungary, following the First World War. A carillon in the park between the Opera House and St Urbain’s Tower plays The Beatles’ Yesterday, a surprisingly beautiful piece of music on bells. There is a waxwork museum within the medieval tower, the only waxworks in the world devoted to Slavs, which features Andy Warhol (whose parents lived 100km north of Kosice) and the great February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 41

Opening page: Namestie Slobody (Freedom Square). Opposite page clockwise from top left: Architectural detail; The ruined castle of Spissky Hrad perches on a hilltop; Pedestrianized Hlavna ulica (Main Street) lined with historic buildings.

patriot Prince Francis Rakoczi II (1676-1735), who is buried in the cathedral next door. Rakoczi was actually a Hungarian but is also celebrated as a Slav military hero.

History is complex in Kosice. This east Slovakian city is a colourful mix of Renaissance, Baroque, rococo and Art Nouveau architecture, all testimony to the wealth derived from being on several major trade routes. Between world wars, the city enjoyed a brief Slavic heyday of affluence and idiosyncrasy as those who owned cars proudly drove on the (non-European) left. I cross Hlavna and come to a tall pink house where the great Hungarian revolutionary and poet Janos Batsanyi lived. The plaque to him was reworked between the wars so that Janos is now also commemorated as Jan Batsanyi, his Slovak name.

The next block has a beautifully restored house in black, red and gold with the Hungarian word vendeglo (restaurant) over one lintel. However, the eatery installed here during the Second World War was considered little more than a disreputable boozer. Curiously the vendeglo sign has been left intact – a reminder perhaps of how easily nations have appropriated Kosice in the past. In 1941, Adolf Hitler dismembered Czechoslovakia and gave a large section of Slovakia to his Hungarian allies. They then started renaming everything all over again. However, Kosice was entirely Hungarian for only four years. In 1945, it fell to the Red Army and, three years later, Czechoslovakia became a Soviet satellite and its new collectivist bosses set about ringing Kosice with steel plants and ugly accommodation blocks for workers. Fortunately, they never got round to dynamiting the beautiful palaces on Hlavna where I am 42 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

walking now, although that was certainly in the plans. The money to rebuild ran out in the 1980s and then the regime itself ran out of time. That is why today you can still wander within the lines of Kosice’s medieval city walls and enjoy an extravaganza of European architecture.

The carillon stops playing Yesterday. If I head north now I’ll find the Levocsky Dom, a 15th-century caravanserai where traders from Levoca (90km north of Kosice) would board. Also the seminary endowed by a wealthy Kosice lady in 1652, where Pope John Paul II stayed in 1995 and a little wooden church from eastern Slovakia that’s being rebuilt on a busy junction.

If I head south from here, I’ll pass Carpano, the patisserie where the Hungarian novelist Sandor Marai met his future wife during an ice cream-eating competition, and also the birthplace of Bela Gerster, the Kosice engineer who designed the Panama Canal. There’s the Csaky-Dessewffy Mansion, from where in 1918 the self-proclaimed Eastern Slovak Republic was run for 18 days, until Czech legions arrived to ‘encourage’ the recalcitrant citizens of Kosice to become part of Czechoslovakia. Every building has a story, and most attest to the historic wealth of the people who traded here for centuries on Slovakia’s volatile borders with Ukraine, Poland and Hungary. There is one anomaly.

Café Jalta looks exactly like what it is: a 1960s slab of badly built Soviet concrete dumped on Hlavna. Happily, it’s an architectural experiment that was never repeated.

This year, Kosice not only becomes European Capital of Culture, but it also celebrates the first 20 years of Slovakian independence. It’s going to be a big year for this little city.

Images: Getty Images, Corbis / Arabian Eye Text: Adrian Mourby/ The Independent/ The Interview People

‘Every building has a story, and most attest to the historic wealth of the people who traded here for centuries on Slovakia’s volatile borders’

Tale of The cenTuries | Kosice

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 43

44 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

bali’s design for life | bali

Bali’s design for life

L

ong before I’d set foot on Bali, I had a sense that I’d been there before. I’d encountered a little bit of the island in the Caribbean, in Malaysia, Costa Rica, Australia … even Ibiza.

I’d seen it in pavilion-style hotels with their muslin-draped daybeds, in those ornate wood carvings scattered around boutiquey little places that provide barefoot luxury to the smart set. Bali had whispered to me from the pages of this travel magazine and sleek coffee-table books. The island has become a metaphor for tropical luxury, an aesthetic commodity that has spread far beyond this tiny bead in the Indonesian necklace. So when I finally arrived, the first question I asked myself was this: how has Bali done it?

Bali is rich in natural resources: tropical timbers, lava stone, copper, gold, silver, alang alang reeds. The natural settings, though increasingly sparse due to overdevelopment, are exemplary, with surf-thrashed coastlines, jade-green rice terraces and bosky mountainsides. In the late 1960s, these exotic landscapes – along with an idiosyncratic arts scene – acted as a honey pot for itinerant hippies, artists and architects, signalling the start of the tourist boom that would change the island for ever.

“We revere big things – trees, rocks and, most importantly, the mountain,” architect Trishna Newson told me as we sat in the cool, spacious pavilion at the Alila Manggis hotel.

Born in Bali and trained in New Zealand, Trishna – when not designing luxury villas for her clients – has devised an architectural tour of the island for Alila’s guests, which introduces this complex and singular design for living.

Traditional Balinese buildings are based on a code that doesn’t relate to architectural conventions or planning edicts, but on the concept of tri angga – a three-tiered hierarchy of spaces: “utama”, or high and February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 45

Opening page: Active volcano Mount Agung lies beyond Penelokan village. Opposite page: A man carries baskets of animal fodder past a waterfall.

sacred; “madya”, the everyday; and “nista”, the lowest, impure or profane sector. It’s synchronised with the belief that the universe is a tripartite cosmological model that in turn can be mapped on to the island itself. The peak of Mount Agung – the active volcano that marks the island’s highest point – is the sacred pinnacle, madya the lowlands and nista the sea. And, as humans, it is said that we are physiologically divided in the same way. “This is how we build our homes,” Trishna explained, as she pointed to the pitched woven alang alang roof above, the cool stone living space around us, and the Indian Ocean beyond the neat lawn below.

Similarly, as I looked around, the guestrooms were in simple two-tiered buildings with a pitched roof above providing the third layer.

Of course, the interpretation of these 46 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

ideals can vary. Hotels might purvey Balinese design to the rest of the world, but if you want to see it in its purest form, you have to look at the village compounds where most Balinese people still live.

As I set off to explore with my Balinese guide Kumara, the choice seemed overwhelming. On the drive from Manggis on the east coast, up to Ubud in the central highlands, we passed under tunnels of penjor – bamboo poles arched over the road and decorated with bright green coconut leaves curled to form patterns. These totems of celebration marked the half-year in the 210day pawukon calendar, and at their very top, tiny bags of food and flowers were tied on with string.

At the village of Demulih, we stopped to climb a steep, forested hill. At the summit, the

view funnelled down through an implausibly neat slice of a valley to the haze of the ocean in the far distance. A small stone temple marked the apex, decorated with bright yellow parasols and facing Mount Agung; this orientation, known as kaja, is a crucial axis in the structure of Balinese life. As we drifted down the hill past coffee bushes, durian and snakeskin-fruit trees, we reached another complex at the bottom. “Kelod,” Kumara announced. “Facing the sea.” Here, two huge pools held water that had filtered down from the mountains. Not only is this water considered holy, but it plays an integral role in the island’s ancient subak irrigation system that democratically shares mountain water around the paddy fields’ many farmers – a practice that was recently awarded Unesco World Heritage status.

bali’s design for life | bali

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 47

‘Things were cooler up in Ubud, a higher-altitude region of rolling hills carved into a quilt of rice terraces and deep river gorges’

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bali’s design for life | bali

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 49

To get a better understanding of the kaja-kelod axis, Kumara took me to his home.

The gateway was positioned at the ocean, the kelod end. The kitchen and bathroom were close by, the impurest sections of the family compound. Sleeping quarters were arranged on each side and divided according to age and marital status. Kumara lay down on the polished tiles of the pavilion floor to demonstrate how the Balinese even slept in the kaja-kelod axis, with their head pointing toward Mount Agung and their feet pointing towards the sea.

At Penglipuran, a traditional village near Ubud, this model for living is laid out on a grand scale. Here, the village houses have been opened up to visitors, all arranged uniformly along an avenue that steers towards the mountain. The gates to each home resembled an arch split down the middle, built to symbolise Mount Agung and to allow free-flowing access to the nista. Inside, most of the families slept in the kitchen areas. Kumara told me it was to keep warm at night, which seemed unusual in the tropical climate.

Things were cooler up in Ubud, a higheraltitude region of rolling hills carved into a quilt of rice terraces and deep river gorges.

This is the hub of Bali’s arts and crafts scene, where artists converge and wood-carving shops proliferate. On one of the most dramatic gorges, accessed via a long and winding road through rice fields, the Alila Ubud clings on to the steep valley above the Ayung river. The three-tiered hotel rooms have been laid out like a hillside village, following the valley’s contours and centring 50 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

on the community centre – in this case the restaurant and rice paddy-like infinity pool, built on a promontory jutting into the deep valley. With the doors flung open in my valley villa, I went to sleep listening to the chirrup of geckos.

The Alila Ubud is a modern translation of Balinese architecture, a theme that’s developed even further at Alila Villas Soori, on the south-west coast. Here, the luxurious villas are split laterally into three, an openair bathroom at the back, the main living quarters in the middle and a private pool at the front, overlooking either the sparkling black sand of the beach or rice fields. A

short drive from the quiet rural town of Kerambitan, Soori’s architecture might be a picture of modern pan-Asian design, but the black porous stone walls and pools of water reference the temples that I’d seen dotted around the island, using the same stone mined close to Mount Batur, another holy volcano north west of Agung.

Clinging to the edge of the rocky Bukit peninsula in the south of Bali, Alila Villas Uluwatu also imparts exclusivity and modern exoticism in its spacious layout that allows inside and outside spaces to flow into each other. Rows of sleek white villas are plugged into the hillsides, accessed via stairs

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock Text: Sophie Lam/ The Independent/ The Interview People

Previous page: Rice terraces in Ubud. This page, clockwise from top left: Luna2 private hotel’s front view; Lounge view; The Orange Room.

bali’s design for life | bali

‘Luna2 respects the past, welcomes the future and likes to have fun in the process’

alongside which channels of water filter down to frog-filled pools. In this there are echoes of the subak irrigation system – here in the driest part of the island, grey water is recycled in reed beds and reused to water the gardens.

But it was the busy resort of Seminyak which demonstrated how radically Balinese design is being reinterpreted.

Here, sandwiched between The Oberoi and Anantara hotels, Luna2 Private Hotel completes the cycle of international Balinese style. This sleek five-room exclusive-use property is a slice of Miami Beach-meetsPalm Springs transplanted to the Indian

Ocean. “Luna2 respects the past, welcomes the future and likes to have fun in the process” is the motto of its owner and designer Melanie Hall, who has sought to distance the property from the ubiquitous Balinese villa by branding it a private hotel and veering away from vernacular design.

The Pop Art playground interior is all citrus colours, geometric patterns and covetable design pieces. And while there’s not a piece of carved wood or a nod to Mount Agung in sight, there’s still that feeling of a tripartite layout: villa easing into the lawned garden, and garden down to the beach and the sea.

And, of course, the obligatory family shrine.

As I drove out of Seminyak and entered the throng of Bali’s tourist hub Kuta, the island I’d come to know was suddenly unrecognisable.

Here, glass and steel malls have replaced temples and house compounds. However, as I sped past a McDonald’s drive-thru, I looked again: there in the courtyard was a thatch-roofed building pointing to the sea, just as I’d seen in all the homes. And as I left the island by sea, Mount Agung came into view, silhouetted against the crimson sky as the sun set behind it. The rest of the world might have borrowed Balinese design, but it’s missing that vital component: the magnificent mountain.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 51

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51st state | Puerto rico

51st State?

Puerto Rico hopes to be the 51st US state, but for Fran Yeoman it is the island’s Latin flavour that is the part worth savouring

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 53

S

hortly before I set off for my first trip to Puerto Rico, a wise old travel hand gave me his verdict: “It’s like Cuba, but everything works.” It sounded promising. But another way of putting it might be: “It’s like Cuba, but in a parallel political universe” or indeed, “Cuba, if Castro were Uncle Sam”. This Caribbean isle, sandwiched between the Virgin Islands and Dominican Republic, has been a “commonwealth” of the US since 1952, as far from Caribbean communism as could be. Indeed, in November last year, Puerto Rico voted in a referendum to become the 51st US state – and while few actually expect this to happen in the foreseeable future, in most senses it is already American soil.

This means SUVs rather than vintage cars lining the streets of the capital San Juan and its historic colonial old town.

It also means Hershey’s chocolate in the supermarkets and flight connections that primarily revolve around the US mainland.

And, unlike the atmospherically shabby colonial heart of Havana, San Juan – which 54 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

mirrors the Cuban capital in its architecture and imposing, centuries-old seafront forts – is almost disappointingly pristine, the colourful paintwork of the colonial buildings is fresh and the ironwork is unrusted.

However, San Juan has an atmosphere all of its own, with an old town that manages to encapsulate the cultural tug-of-war going on across the island. US and Puerto Rican flags fly above the 18th-century San Cristóbal fort, along with the old Spanish naval ensign that first fluttered above its ramparts, while English is an official language along with Spanish – a handy safety net for a rusty speaker of the latter such as myself. Exploring the fort, I was struck by the apparent lack of resentment towards Puerto Rico’s former colonial masters, both on display boards and from my guide. It was as though the island’s past as a strategically vital part of the Spanish empire has become acceptable – even invested with a glimmer of pride – as its present becomes ever more Anglophone.

The island’s food also reflects this duality.

On my first day in the island’s capital, I

Opening page: An aerial view of boats anchored off Culebra Island.

This page: San Juan’s old town; the view from Fuerte San Cristobal.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A woman in a roadside kiosk cooks Puerto Rican fast foods; Calle del Cristo in Old San Juan; A 1960 Chevrolet Impala parked on Plaza las Delicias.

51st state | Puerto rico

‘San Juan has an atmosphere all of its own, with an old town that manages to encapsulate the cultural tug-of-war going on across the island’

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 55

‘For daytime natural splendours I headed an hour west out of San Juan, to the Camuy Caves’

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51st state | Puerto rico

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tropical rainforest within a US territory.

True to its name, the forest came complete with rain – the heavens opened as we drove along Route 191 into the trees – but that didn’t prevent the view over the canopy to the coast from the top of the Yokahu observation tower from being impressive, or the white ginger flowers our guide picked from smelling absolutely heavenly.

Next stop was Laguna Grande, a bay on the island’s north-east tip near Fajardo that is famed for its bioluminescence. The water is home to millions of micro-organisms

that glow blue-green when disturbed. So I took off – in the dark – on a two-hour round trip in a canoe to explore. Sadly, the otherwordly light show wasn’t at its best thanks to a combination of light pollution and a cloudy sky. The purist, I was informed, might want to go the extra miles to Mosquito Bay on the offshore island of Vieques for a more stunning experience, away from the lights and disturbances of the main island.

Nevertheless, the paddle along a narrow waterway to the bay, guided only by the blinking LED at the rear of the canoe in front

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye Text: Fran Yeoman / The Independent / The Interview People

found myself in a dimly lit local restaurant, El Jibarito, tucking into creole chicken and mofongo (a traditional dish made with mashed fried plantain). Two blocks away, salads and hummus are dished out at the fan-cooled St Germain, which wouldn’t feel out of place in Manhattan. By night, in the New York-sounding district of SoFo (“South of Fortaleza Street”), I dined on Latin fusion delights such as dorado with crab salsa in the Parrot Club, and witnessed San Juan’s pitch for the title of gourmet capital of the Caribbean.

Where the Stars and Stripes clearly triumph is in Puerto Rico’s burgeoning luxury tourism industry. The five- and six-star hotels springing up on the island are designed as winter-sun, passport-free boltholes for wealthy Americans. Yes, Juan Jose Cuevas, the deliciously talented, Michelin-starred chef at 1919, who delivered the stand-out meal of my trip, is Puerto Rican. But his restaurant, already serving up scallops with Portobello mushrooms and hazelnut foam in the (soon to be reopened) Condado Vanderbilt Hotel in an upmarket corner of San Juan, has mainland dollars firmly in its sights. The same will no doubt be true of another high-end arrival, the Four Seasons, when it opens in 2014, and the new Ritz-Carlton Reserve at Dorado Beach, about half an hour east of San Juan. Located on a site once owned by the Rockefeller dynasty, Dorado Beach has 114 rooms that start at just under £1,000 a night.

When I looked around the day after its glitzy opening party, it was undeniably spectacular, with a gigantic, largely open-air Botanicó spa, stylish clean-lined architecture and acres of green space.

A characterful option for those wanting a high-end stay on the edge of the capital is the two-year-old St Regis Bahia Beach resort.

Native coquí frogs – named for the loud noise of the males – chatter in the foliage that lines wooden walkways between rooms and the service is genuinely friendly as well as efficient (the best kind of American import).

Yet despite the temptations of the St Regis’s pool and its complimentary frozen grapes, I wanted to see a little more of Puerto Rico than US imports and glitzy hotels.

Fortunately, the island’s diminutive size means that getting to the sights is a relatively speedy business. Less than an hour’s drive west from San Juan is El Yunque, the only

51st state | Puerto rico

Previous spread: A hiker explores a cavern in the jungle of Northern Puerto Rico. Opposite page, from top: Inside the St Regis Bahia Beach Resort ; The resort’s pool. This page: Houses on Recinto Sur Street in Old San Juan.

of me, while listening to the sound of fellow tourists ploughing into the banks behind me, was enjoyable enough to make the trip worthwhile.

For daytime natural splendours I headed an hour west out of San Juan, to the Camuy Caves, where a jauntily painted roadtrain transports visitors down through an overgrown sink hole to the edge of what resembled a concrete bunker. This was erected, my guide cheerily told me, to protect visitors on their way into the cavern after a tourist’s head was smashed a few years ago by a falling rock. Do not be put off by this disconcerting news, however: once down the steps inside the bunker, you are inside a quite spectacular cavern, moodily lit so that ancient stalactites and stalagmites throw shapes, a mixture of ethereal and amusing, on to its walls.

Back in San Juan (via one of the multiple roadside restaurants and kiosks selling authentic creole fare involving lots of rice and beans), locals celebrated Friday pay-day by flocking to Plaza de las Americas. This self-proclaimed largest mall in the Caribbean

is a useful, cheap spot for stocking up on US brands. Yet even as they crowd into Macy’s and Victoria’s Secret, Puerto Ricans remain cynical that the superpower that has sent them such consumerist delights, and accepted them as citizens since 1917, will take them fully under its eagle’s wing soon.

For all its Americanness, Puerto Rico is poorer than the mainland US, and the costs involved in granting it statehood for a Washington currently struggling to get its parlous finances in order are, they’re convinced, a price that few on Capitol Hill care to pay. Nor, they argue, are Republicans minded to allow what would be a solidly Democratic addition to the union. So the island looks set to continue in limbo, and many are actually quite content with that.

While some see the current halfway house as disenfranchisement, others see it as the best of both worlds – a means of fusing US and Latin culture; a place on the modern world stage with heritage based on Spanish and indigenous roots; Macy’s with mofongo.

Travellers who like the sound of “Cuba, but where everything works” will probably agree.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 59

Rhine for the taking Germany’s business hub, Düsseldorf, has become known as the ‘Knightsbridge of the Rhine’ – and for jolly good reason, finds luxury-seeker Laura Binder

60 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

DÜsselDorf | Germany

Clockwise from bottom right opposite : Crowds on the banks of the Rhine; The facades of the quay of Düsseldorf at sunset; The Rheinturm TV tower; View of the Königsallee canal; Düsseldorf ‘s Castle Square.

A

seven-hour flight from Abu Dhabi to Düsseldorf doesn’t seem quite so daunting when reclining your leather chair into a sleep-inducing horizontal (only after testing out its massage mode, naturally) and with an arm-length array of dishes on request (stretch for the menu and an air hostess will run to your aid – you don’t want to put yourself out). Happily, that was the position I found myself in when making for a girls’ city break via Etihad Airways’ business class – having heard Düsseldorf dubbed the ‘Knightsbridge’ or ‘Fifth Avenue’ of Germany, it felt wrong not to start as we meant to go on.

Admittedly, it isn’t the first German city that sprang to mind when planning an EU getaway – Berlin, Frankfurt, even Hamburg, came up first but, despite being known as the country’s international business and financial hub, a former resident of the city explained the wealth of luxury, culture and shopping Düsseldorf could afford a group of girls like us. “Also”, he ventured, “it’s easy as pie to get around – handy when noone can read a map, or speak a word of German.” I would have been mortally offended by such an assumption, had it not been so true.

Sure enough, landing at Düsseldorf airport (enormous, by the way, don’t get lost on the way to the loos) I felt positively refreshed

having bypassed the usual check-in lines (Etihad affords private check-in for business class passengers) and being wonderfully wellfed, not to mention well-rested, en route. Seven hours flew by, literally.

With our weekend recipe of luxury and culture in mind, there was only one place to reserve a suite – the Breidenbacher Hof Hotel.

This is a place where the wealth of its guests is matched only by its well-documented history.

Having opened some 200 years ago, in 1812, it assumes a prestigious position on Königsallee

Wits firmly about me for a certain doe-eyed actor, (now that would be the icing on the cake of a girls’ city break), we stole a look at the hotel’s Presidential Suites – the abodes of choice if you want to make like an A-lister (think huge, jet black marble bathrooms with a tub big enough for a horse, sophisticated interiors and gloss-wood finishes.) Next door, meanwhile, we found an adjoining private clinic, which means you can pad along in your fluffy robe for a ‘nip or tuck’ and recover in style in your suite. For the less squeamish, meanwhile,

‘Immaculate tree-lined avenues of boutiques unravelled alongside a picturesque canal’ (label-lovers, read: designer boutique heaven).

It’s this fact, plus the nearby music venue Espirit Arena Dusseldorf that our hotel host, Britta, told us makes it a first pick for A-list stars. In the lobby I leafed through a coffee table book chronicling the hotel’s history, its back pages thick with celebrity photos – everyone from Richard Gere to Pink. Stopping at a photo of George Clooney, arm round a beaming Britta, I turned to her, wide-eyed. “It’s a tough job,” she smiled, “but…”.

there’s the Schnitzler Beauty Lounge. We settled for manis and pedis.

Pepped up by the possibility of seeing Clooney himself, we stepped outside, newly preened, to paw the designer togs along the Königsallee boulevard. Immaculate tree-lined avenues of boutiques unravelled alongside a picturesque canal, interrupted only by elegant cafes and well-dressed Düsseldorfers, many with pint-sized dogs rushing alongside their owners’ heels. (For those who wish to be February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 61

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Shopping in Stadtmitte; Locals eating at Medienhafen - Media Harbour; Breidenbacher Hof hotel Grand Suite; Breidenbacher Hof hotel exterior; inside the Schloss Benrath Palace

62 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

and pink-coloured properties spun their way around the central Marktplatz itself framed by a town hall (Renaissance Rathaus) that dates to 1573. Peer into nearby shop windows, as we did, and you’ll find everything from vintage boutiques (we were loathe to leave behind a genuine treasure trove of vintage Chanel) to delicatessens, not to mention a bountiful Alstadt market where colourful blooms and fit-to-burst fruits exploded into a near rainbowlike display.

An entirely different picture can be found at the other end of the Rhine, meanwhile, at MedienHafen (translation: Media Harbour), an

short drive out of the city, would round up our quest for history and luxury combined. On arrival (ask the hotel and they’ll arrange both a chauffeur and a private historian guide) we fell into full Princess mode on being confronted with a surprising candyfloss-pink palace – a Rococo maison de plaisance built in the 1700s for Prince-Elector Charles Theodore.

Sitting before endless manicured gardens, punctuated by grandiose stone statues, it’s like stepping into a fairytale. Take a tour of inside its wings - some of which require you to trade shoes for rather ugly slippers, so as not to mark the original floors - or stroll in the ‘summer and

‘Culture, rather than retail, many would say, is what makes Düsseldorf a must-do city’ old industrial harbour reborn into a media hub.

There we saw surely the most comtemporary architecture of the city: an aimless stroll revealed a weird and wonderful trio of buildings from Frank Gehry, each of which loomed over the harbour which is now also home to a few hip haunts and trendy dockside offices (playful plastic figures, or “Flossies”, as locals called them, climb up the wall of one).

While there’s no real cause to leave the centre, we were told Schloss Benrath, just a

hunting’ gardens and you can picture how the other half of the time would have lived. And, today, you can tie the knot here – at a rather hefty price.

Suitably seduced by the luxuries of this German business city, we contemplated our favourite finds (and buys) in the hotel’s glamorous Capella lounge. Berlin? We questioned. Frankfurt? We scoffed. The only thing missing from Düsseldorf was George Clooney. Maybe next time…

Images: Supplied Text: Laura Binder

suitably en vogue, Pugs appeared to be the pooch of choice.) For a city of 15 million, it was a tranquil scene, minus all the hustle and bustle you’d find in say, London’s Oxford Circus (said Pug would be squashed for sure). Fawning over the latest Mulberry handbags and Chanel lines, the area was proof enough of the region’s recent good fortune.

Rheinuferpromenade is an equally easy spot to while away the hours in full holiday mode. Mingling with the locals (it’s as popular a spot with Düsseldorfers as it is visitors) the embankment is lined with cafes and lounges, providing plentiful places to seek relief from all that retail therapy. Follow it and you’ll go the length of the river, all the way to the 240m-high ‘Rheinturm’, or Rhine Tower. Sat amidst an almost-Mediterranean buzz, it’s hard to envisage the embankment’s original form – a busy road that ran into a tunnel. Today its position only serves to make the city, which spreads across the east bank of the Rhine, and river feel at one: barges chugged by, the air was filled with chatter and, over on the west bank, suburban boltholes cropped up from the grass.

“Anyone feel the need for a little culture yet?” I asked from behind a sea of shopping bags. “Alstadt is the place,” Britta told us, the city’s historical quarter which, like most hotpots was within walking distance of the Rhine.

Culture, rather than retail, many would say, is what makes Düsseldorf a must-do city – and Alstadt provides a pleasing mix of the two.

‘Kunstpalast’, was one recommendation for our art intake – a building constructed in the 1920s, it now hosts not one but five museums under one roof – ‘Deutsche Oper am Rhein’ for opera and ballet; ‘Tonhalle’ for classical music, plus a smattering of twee museums and galleries, which popped up along the labyrinthine pathways. In this part of town ageing lemon-

DĂœsselDorf | Germany

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 63

ConCierge | opener

CONCIERGE

MATERA | RIO dE jANEIRO | CARdIff | dOHA

the 30-second concierge

ANGELA MANOLIO, PALAZZO MARGHERITA

High in the hilltops of southern Italy lies a little-known destination just waiting to be explored. KWT finds out more about its hidden charms...

Palazzo Margherita has something for everyone… from retreatseekers and honeymooners, to explorers and foodies, and fans of Francis Ford Coppola [the famous movie director who owns the resort] and of film in general, you will find what you’re looking for.

For film fans…I suggest dining at Cinecitta café and pizzeria, where images of film actors adorn the walls, before retreating to the Salon, which becomes a cinema at night. Among the vast film database is a selection of Italian films personally chosen by Mr Coppola.

For an authentic taste of Italy… we use traditional, ancient recipes to create authentic regional tastes using only fresh local produce. I

recommend lampascioni, a unique onion dish, and of course our pasta lagane, which is particularly good.

If you want to explore the region… I would suggest Matera, a UNESCO site well known for its caves and home to the MUSMA museum (the modern art museum), and also Palazzo Lanfranchi and the Crypt of the Original Sin. The ghost town Craco was abandoned in the 1960s but remains in tact and sunset at Tursi’s Arab quarter, Rabatana, is magical.

If you want to spend a day at the Palazzo… take a leisurely stroll among the garden’s many secret pathways, before having a cooking lesson to learn how to recreate our specialties. copollaresorts.com February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 65

visit

Rio de JaneiRo

With its zest for life and awe-inspiring landscape, this glamorous Brazilian city has mesmerised the rich and famous for generations. With good reason, says Leah Oatway

I

t is not difficult to see why Rio de Janeiro earned the nickname “the marvellous city”.

From its breath-taking beaches and azure lagoons to the spectacular granite peaks that tower above them, the lush rainforest beyond and downtown Rio’s incredible architecture - the city offers something for everyone. And yet there is more still to Rio than the aesthetic. For if the sheer scale and beauty of the landscape doesn’t capture your heart, the energy, glamour and vivacity of its people will prove irresistible.

Never is this more apparent than during the Rio Carnival, which takes place this month.

For a few days in the midst of the Brazilian summer, the city’s streets are transformed into a multicoloured artistic playground, providing a frenzied sensory overload for the hundreds of thousands of revellers who descend for the festivities. Soul-uplifting music, courtesy of drummers and marching bands, provide the soundtrack for elaborate floats and spectacular dance performances by artists in vibrant, feathered costumes that dazzle the eyes and ignite the spirit.

The carnival may only be in town for a few days but in Rio the celebration of life in all its forms never stops, making it the perfect host for the next FIFA World Cup and 2016 Olympics and Paralympics.

66 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Rio De JaneiRo | BRazil

Images: Shutterstock; Supplied

MUST-DOS Visit Rio early this month and experience the greatest show on earth, the Rio Carnival (1), which runs from February 8 to 16.

Processions of elaborately decorated floats, and dancers and performers in flamboyant costumes, move to heart pounding drum beats, bringing the city to a standstill. Those looking for a gentler pace should take a walk or cycle along the trails of Floresta da Tijuca (2), the world’s largest urban rainforest. This national park is a welcome oasis of cool in the summer heat. Discover a plethora of exotic wildlife and plants, waterfalls and grottoes and marvel at one of the world’s new seven wonders, Christ the Redeemer (3), as well as Corcovado mountain (4). The birthplace of Bossa Nova, ipanema (5) is one of Rio’s most exclusive and affluent areas. Soak up the sun on its legendary beach or people gaze from one of many cafes – keep your eyes peeled for lifeguard post 9, where the prettiest people hang out. In Rio, great swimwear is a must, so check out the latest offerings from hot Brazilian designer Lenny and local favourite Osklen at their Ipanema boutiques. For culture vultures there are museums, contemporary art galleries and an avant-garde theatre. At sunset, there is no better view of this wondrous city than from the top of Sugarloaf Mountain (6). If a helicopter ride around the mountain doesn’t appeal then a glass-walled cable car runs to the summit, stopping first at Morra da Urca where, in the summer, late evening concerts entertain appreciative crowds. Before taking the cable car, make a quick diversion to Rio’s smallest beach, Praia Vermelha, or Red Beach, and the short nature trail that snakes around Urca’s base. Look out for the families of monkeys that live in the trees lining the route. A short ferry trip to Oscar Niemeyer’s niteroi Museum of Contemporary art (7) is a must for architecture fans. The futuristic disk-shaped building resembles a Bond lair, stretching out over a reflective pool. Entered via a red-carpeted winding ramp, inside are two floors of contemporary art and a viewing gallery offering spectacular views of Rio. Meanwhile, a more Bohemian side of Rio is waiting to be explored at Santa Teresa (8), where the city’s last remaining yellow bonde, or electric tram, heaves commuters along cobbled streets. Once home to wealthy industrialists, Santa Teresa later fell into

RiO’S bEST… bEAcHES Trinidade, Paraty, Rio de Janeiro Its classic Costa Verde setting makes Trinidade popular with active travellers and, come nightfll, the pretty colonial town of Paraty

provides ample romantic restaurant settings.

firm favourite among the city’s surfers.

arpoador

Leblon

It is one of the few beaches that is lit by night, making a late night dip possible, and is also a

An extension of Ipanema beach, Leblon is one of the best places to watch the sun set over Rio.

neglect before being adopted by artists and musicians who breathed new life and energy into the area. Take the bonde to its last stop Largo dos Guimarães – just a short walk from a good selection of handicraft shops, trendy galleries and achingly cool eateries.

hotel architecture. Located in the heart of Ipanema, just steps from the beach and the city’s best restaurants, Starck’s luxurious design reflects the Bossa Nova heyday, in the 50’s and 60’s, when Ipanema blossomed.

WHERE TO EAT WHERE TO STAY The Copacabana Palace (9) (copacabanapalace.com) epitomises Rio’s glamour and history. Since opening in 1923, it has hosted the likes of Ava Gardner, Fred Astaire, Anthony Hopkins and the Clintons.

Perfectly situated, overlooking Copacabana beach, the hotel combines art deco features with cutting edge contemporary luxury, including new penthouse suites.

Hotel Fasano Rio de Janeiro (10) (fasano. com.br) is Philippe Starck’s first foray into

aprazivel (11) (021/2508-9174) serves up one of the best views in Rio, so book ahead. Try its signature dish – peixe tropical – grilled fish in orange sauce served with coconut rice and roasted plantains.

Roberta Sudbrack (12) (021/3874-0139) is one of Brazil’s most prestigious restaurants, set in Rio’s 200-year-old botanical gardens and with former presidential chef Sudbrack at its helm. An indulgent fine dining experience, Sudbrack serves up traditional Brazilian food with a contemporary twist.

6 1 Maracanà

7

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Rio de Janeiro 3

4

Flamengo

Da Marta

5 9

11

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Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A dancer during the Rio Carnival; An aerial view of the center of rio; Beach soccer at Copacabana beach ,with the Copacabana Palace in the background; Niteroi Museum of Contemporary Art; Sugarloaf Mountain.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 67

visit

Cardiff

The weather in the historic Welsh capital is rarely reliable but a warm welcome is guaranteed

I

t may not be the biggest capital city in the world, but never let it be said that Cardiff is not among the friendliest.

Anyone wishing to experience the full fervour of Welsh hospitality need only visit the city on the day of a national rugby match at its Millennium Stadium. From early morning, as the picturesque city stirs and market traders set up stall on its main shopping streets, the excitement is palpable. By the time the match is due to kick off, the streets are a sea of red rugby jerseys and the air rings with song and general merriment. Don’t be surprised to see fans dressed in nationalinspired costumes and sporting 68 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

face paint linking arms with rival supporters. It would take far more than a bad game to dampen this city’s spirits.

For, unlike the national rugby team, Cardiff is on a winning streak. Fresh from a major redevelopment of its shopping district and with Cardiff Bay having been transformed from a down-on-its-luck docklands to a thriving hub of culture and eateries, the capital is now a city destination to be reckoned with.

But while it has embraced change, Cardiff’s rich history is never far from sight or mind, with reminders at every turn: from the imposing Edwardian civic buildings to Cardiff’s majestic castle.

Cardiff | uk

13

8

Roath

7 2 Canton

12 11

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Riverside

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Cardiff Ninian Park

Butetown

5

3 4

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Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Cardiff Castle; Cardiff Bay; the Millennium Centre. This page: Welsh cakes.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

MUST-dOS Located at the heart of the city, a visit to Cardiff Castle (1) is a must for those seeking a better understanding of its 2,000-year history, which includes time spent as a Roman garrison, Norman stronghold and Victorian gothic fantasy. A stone’s throw from the castle grounds, stunning Edwardian architecture and the perfectly manicured lawns that surround it provide the ideal place to take in the scenery – should you chance upon fine weather. It is here too that you will find the National Museum of Wales (2).

Free to enter and with something for everyone – including one of Europe’s best collections of Impressionist works – it’s the perfect place to while away a rainy afternoon. If more contemporary architecture is your thing, the new home of the Welsh National Opera, the Millennium Centre (3), in Cardiff Bay (4) will not disappoint.

Affectionately referred to by locals as “the armadillo”, its

design is unmistakably Welsh.

Constructed using Welsh wood, slate, steel and glass – a nod to Wales’ industrial past – its front wall features a striking bilingual inscription written by poet Gwyneth Lewis. If you’re lucky, you may catch a free foyer performance from a visiting artist but book ahead to ensure seats for a ballet, musical or opera. If the Welsh weather leaves you chilly, warm up with a Welsh cake (a traditional sweet cake) and a hot drink, or something more substantial, at Mermaid Quay (5), popular for its choice of eateries. Those looking for kitsch reminders of their visit need look no further than the small selection of quaint boutiques here. Alternatively, hunt through the city’s historic series of Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades, in the city centre, or check out St david’s (6), a modern 150-store shopping mall. Those feeling energetic could hire a bicycle and head along the 93-kilometre Taff Trail (7) from Cardiff Bay’s

waterfront to the stunning market town of Brecon. The route eases cyclists through lush green countryside and passes numerous sites of interest, including Castell Coch (8), a fairytale-like castle built in the Splott 19th Century on 13th Century ruins. For those who prefer to travel on four wheels, be sure to take a trip to St fagan’s National History Museum (9). Wales’ past lives on at this popular open-air museum, where local craftsmen while away the days practicing traditional skills amid re-erected ancient buildings.

WHERE TO STAY The St david’s Hotel and Spa (10) (thestdavidshotel.com) is something of a landmark on the Cardiff waterfront, with its bold contemporary design and spectacular location. The hotel’s five-star amenities make it a firm favourite among visiting celebrities.

The Park Plaza (11) (parkplazacardiff.com) is a contemporary, luxury hotel located in the heart of the city. With an award-winning restaurant and luxurious spa facilities, the greatest challenge

for guests is mustering the strength to leave the hotel.

WHERE TO EAT Burges restaurant at the Park House Hotel (12) (parkhouseclub.com) takes its name from the 19th century building’s architect, William Burges. A fine dining experience to remember, for the ultimate indulgence, try the gourmet tasting menu.

Mint and Mustard (13) (mintandmustard.com/cardiff) has won a string of awards for its refined Keralan cuisine, including Cardiff’s only Michelin Bib Gourmand. Vegetarians should try Thoran, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes.

CARdiff’S bEST… HiSTORiC SHOpping ARCAdES Morgan arcade This is the arcade to head to for vintage treats.

Lose yourself among the antiques, vintage clothing and second-hand delights at A Vintage Affair and discover hidden treasures among others’ cast-offs.

royal arcade At the oldest of Cardiff’s arcades, dating back to 1858, pick up fresh goodies at Wally’s delicatessen and

discover colourful Welshwool blankets, throws and cushions at Melin Tregwynt.

Wyndham arcade Known as ‘the forgotten arcade’, the recent addition of Bill’s grocery and restaurant makes it the ideal place to stop off for tasty, fresh food in a relaxed, contemporary setting. On match days, rugby fans head to Servini’s for a breakfast baguette.

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 69

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KT Dubai Internet City Dubai Internet City no.12 (Oracle Bldg) Dubai +971 4 390 8671 ktadic2@emirates. net.ae +971 4 390 1990 - 994 KT Karama Holidays Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed, Dubai +971 4 334 7944 holidaysmgruae@ kanoo.ae +971 4 334 1444 KT Jebel Ali LOB 16 Ground floor Jebel Ali Free Zone Dubai +971 4 881 6095 ktajbfz@emirates. net.ae +971 4 881 5050/8816350 KT Bur Dubai Khalid Bin Walid Street Bur Dubai Dubai

+971 4 393 1545 ktdxb7@kanoo.ae +971 4 507 2467 KT Burj Burj Dubai Business Centre, Bldg no. 1, Ground floor Dubai +971 4 365 3268 Ktdxb10@kanoo.ae +971 50553 9431 KT Al Ain Emirates Commercial Complex Khalifa Street, Al Ain +971 3 764 4811 sales1@kanoomussafa. ae KT Abu Dhabi Al-Najda st. P.O. BOX 245 Abu Dhabi +971 2 678 1766 trvlmgrauh@kanoo.ae +971 2 678 0400 UK UK Kanoo Travel 34 Union Street, Birmingham, B2 4SR +44 1 21 644 5555 Kanoo Travel 74 Queens Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1QU +44 1 17 906 5105

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Kanoo Travel 2-4 High Street Croydon CR0 1YA +44 2 08 256 0805

Kanoo Travel 20 Charles Street, Sheffield S1 1GW +44 114 263 9305

February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 71

SuiTe dreamS

Sharq village and Spa, doha, qaTar

Guests staying at the Royal Villa of Doha’s Sharq Village and Spa may be forgiven for losing all track of time. The luxurious four-suite residence, adorned with rich fabrics and soft lighting, offers blissful seclusion amid understated Arabian opulence. Its stunning indoor pool provides an escape from the midday heat and an opportunity to reinvigorate the senses before indulging in afternoon tea, poolside, while enjoying views of the ocean. Any aches accrued during a 72 February 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

personal training session at the private gym can be soothed in the jacuzzi. Suitably relaxed, join friends or family for dinner under the stars on the vast private terrace, prepared by a personal chef, before retiring to the villa’s gold-trimmed inner majlis. But be warned, the hypnotic sound of the private indoor waterfall, intoxicating aroma of gourmet food and dazzling views can prove a heady combination.

Leaving will be a challenge. ritzcarlton.com

W H E R E YO U R S TAY MEETS YOUR LIFE

DISCOVER THE NEW DESIGN OF PULLMAN DUBAI DEIRA CITY CENTRE

• Experience a newly renovated hotel located in the heart of Deira • Stay in beautifully appointed guestrooms with chic amenities • Leisure shopping and fun entertainment at the adjoined mall • Interactive dining, rooftop swimming pool, spa and fitness facilities

PULLMAN DUBAI DEIR A CIT Y CENTRE

P O B o x 6 1 8 7 1 D e i ra , D u b a i - U n i t e d A ra b E m i ra t e s • + 9 7 1 ( 4 ) 7 0 2 8 0 0 0 • H 2 0 2 2 @ a c c o r. c o m

Book your reservation at: PULLMANHOTELS.COM • ACCORHOTELS.COM MORE THAN 60 HOTELS IN 20 COUNTRIES