Kanoo World Traveller_Mar'13 by Hot Media

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

MARcH 2013

Produced in International Media Production Zone

getaway gems in the Indian Ocean

Animal magic

Why Borneo is worth going wild for

French fancy

Discover the magic of Paris in springtime

Palm Springs

Celebrating 75 years of the Hollywood hotspot

Sicily Discover historic beauty and Italian charm

A tw JA oO nig ce ht an st Be ay ac at h Du To b w ai’ er s

in the island’s sublime south-east corner...

Kanoo World Traveller

Welcome to the issue

Welcome to our March issue. I would like to start my message by thanking all our valued customers and partners who attended the Business Travel Account (BTA) launch ceremony held recently in Dubai. Your presence and well wishes are greatly appreciated. We hope that innovative corporate travel solutions such as the BTA will help your organization enhance its travel program and increase compliancy. With summer approaching, I am glad to share with you a range of exciting destinations and holiday package tours for you and your family. Remember, planning early saves money! Contact your nearest Kanoo Travel outlet for more details. We are also proud to announce the launch of our new electronic newsletter which offers its subscribers the chance to stay ahead of the latest travel news and enjoy special hotel offers. Sign up and stay connected with the best in travel. In this issue we take you to one of the world’s greatest cities, Paris – the perfect destination in spring. And from there to Palm Springs, a favourite retreat for the Hollywood stars of yesteryear and now basking in its own spotlight. We also report from beautiful Sicily, explore the historical charms of China’s ever expanding region Macau, and tell the story of Vienna’s 142-year-old Grand Hotel Wien. Wherever you are travelling, I wish you a safe and enjoyable journey. nabeel Kanoo Director Kanoo Travel

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 3

Taking luxury

to new heights. Now open, this landmark hotel is set to become one of the region’s most desirable destinations, offering luxurious leisure facilities for the most discerning of travellers. Elevated above Dubai’s skyline, on sheikh Zayed Road, the world’s tallest hotel is spread across two iconic towers, featuring an enticing array of 9 restaurants, 5 bars and lounges and the sublime Saray Spa and Health Club. STAY 3 PAY 2 OFFER ON EXECUTIVE ROOMS AND SUITES.* AVAILABLE UNTIL 20 APRIL 2013 BOOK USING PROMO CODE: L9Z

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay PO Box 121000 Dubai, United Arab Emirates T +971 4 414 0000 F +971 4 414 0001 jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com jwmarquis.dubai@marriott.com

Stay 3 nights for the price of 2 at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. Offer is valid until 20 April 2013. This offer is subject to availability and is not applicable with any other promotion.

KaNOO WOrld TravEllEr MArCh 2013

CONTENTS TrAveL BITeS 07 check in

We discover where modern day Gatsbys holiday and why iconic landmarks are ‘going green’ this month

18 competition

Win a two-night stay for four at Dubai’s luxurious JA Ocean Beach Tower

19 Where to SpA

For an indulgent spa break, look no further than Thailand’s many retreats

28 picture thiS

Fire up your imagination with these spectacular shots from across the globe

70 ViSit: GuAnGZhou

Southern China’s largest city is bursting with deliciously tempting attractions

72 ViSit: WArSAW

KWT discovers the myriad charms of Poland’s capital city

76 Suite dreAmS

When it comes to camping, nowhere does it quite like Thailand’s Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle

FeATureS 35 Sicily A trip to the south-east of Sicily reveals postcard-perfect historical architecture

42 mAcAu Tom Peck discovers the hidden depths of this exciting region of China

46 pAriS

Can the French capital live up to 30 years of expectation? asks Laura Binder

54 pAlm SprinGS

In honour of Palm Springs’ 75th birthday we go on a road trip in south California

60 borneo

Matthew Bell goes in search of exotic wildlife and adventure on the north coast

Aerial view of Sicily’s Caletta degli Zimmari, Aeolian islands, Lipari islands and Panarea, Corbis Images

Managing Director: Victoria Thatcher

editor: Leah Oatway

Senior Advertisement Manager:

editorial Director: John Thatcher

leah@hotmediapublishing.com

Stefanie Morgner

Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick

Designers: Adam Sneade, Vanessa Arnaud

stefanie@hotmediapublishing.com

chris@hotmediapublishing.com

Production Manager: Haneef Abdul

+971 4 446 1558

+971 4 369 0917

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.

Jan-Jun 2012 22,953 BPA Consumer Audit Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 5

ESCAPE TO TRADITIONAL LUXURY Al Najada Boutique Hotel is an exquisite oasis in the heart of Dohaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world famous Souq Waqif. A member of the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels collection, Al Najada offers sophisticated business and leisure travellers a timeless Qatari experience handcrafted from the finer things in life.

CheCk in | news

CHECK IN

BE INformEd, BE INspIrEd, BE THErE

usa

The GreaT escape Ahead of the release of Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby re-make, KWT finds out where the protagonist’s modern-day equivalents spend their summers… Those who prefer to be ahead of, rather than following, the trend should make it their business to discover Nantucket Island’s myriad charms before the May release of Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby. For while the Jay Gatsbys of the jazz era spent their summers partying on Long Island, today’s Gatsbys (read: billionaires, politicians and shy A-list celebrities) are heading for the serenity and understated elegance of postcard-perfect Nantucket Island.

In F Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel, set around 1922, Gatsby spent long hedonistic summers partying with New York’s super wealthy ‘new money’ crowd at his palatial mansion on the fictitious West Egg, widely believed to have been based on Great Neck, Long Island. But while today, Long Island remains a hotspot for the monied, its formidable charm appears to have been usurped by that of Nantucket. If you don’t believe us, just ask Bill Gates, Tommy Hilfiger

and Google CEO Eric Schmidt, who are among an ever-expanding list of the world’s most influential billionaires escaping to this former fishing village, with its sandy beaches, lighthouses, historic harbours and inns. Indeed, Walt Disney was said to have based Disneyland on the town, so enamoured was he by the island when he visited. Residents aside, there is nothing particularly glitzy to be found here - there aren’t even traffic lights on the island, let March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 7

8 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Images: Supplied

alone neon lights. Rather, Nantucket Island is somewhere whose charm lies in its New England beauty. Located at America’s most easterly point, just 30 miles from Cape Cod on the coast of Massachusetts, in the 18th and 19th century it was at the centre of the whale oil industry and among the most wealthy and literate areas of America (Moby Dick was based in Nantucket). However, this all sank with the whale oil market before the Broadway jet set re-discovered its beauty in the 1920s. The Northeast’s wealthy followed, and later still, the super rich. Come here in July and August and its small population of 10,000 will have swollen to as many as 60,000 people, making booking way ahead of time imperative for those not blessed with cedar-shingled holiday homes on the island - many of which are worth tens of millions of dollars. For a touch of refined, old school glamour, reserve a room at The Wauwinet (wauwinet. com), on the northeast corner of the island. While away the days taking outdoor cooking classes with chef Kyle Zachary, of Toppers the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, living the Gatsby dream by partaking in a little croquet, or learning how to haul in lobster traps aboard The Wauwinet Lady (the hotel’s boat). There are also two private and pristine beaches to enjoy before dining, while people watching, at Toppers: where the who’s who of Nantucket head for a feed. For A-list luxury living in a chic central location, head to The White Elephant (whiteelephanthotel.com). DiCaprio himself is said to have stayed at this much-loved historic landmark, which has been around since Gatsby’s heydays, in the roaring Twenties. Here you can moor your yacht outside before watching the sunset over the harbour. Make yourself at home within the cosy confines of one of the hotel’s garden cottages, which boast inspiring harbour views. A short stroll from here will find you on the cobbled streets of Petticoat Row, at the heart of the old historic district. This central shopping street earned its name during the mid-19th century, when most of the shops were owned and run by Nantucket women. After a splurge, take a walk on one of the island’s windswept beaches before enjoying the finest steak or seafood at Brant Point Grill, where every dish comes with an

equally impressive harbour view. Satiated, curl up with a book in the plush library or return to your cottage to warm up in front of a log fire. If you’re looking for a family- and petfriendly stay, look to The Cottages and Lofts (thecottagesnantucket.com). Your fourlegged friends will find the Woof Cottages as pleasing as the rest of the family, with a welcome basket filled with treats and toys, a

“blissful bed”, their own personalised pet tag and dog-walking services. Whether you choose to explore its 82 miles of beaches, retreat to one of its many cosy hotels or immerse yourself in the island’s thriving art scene, there is something for everyone on Nantucket Island: just don’t expect high-octane glamour, the island’s visitors are far too glamorous for that. Nantucketislandresorts.com

global

On the grapevine… Style lovers and the environmentally conscious will fall head over heels for San Francisco’s hip new hotel on the block, Hotel Zetta (viceroyhotelgroup.com). Part of the Viceroy Hotel Group, this achingly cool abode not only looks good but attempts to do right by the environment too, with eclectic and sustainable architecture and recycling programmes that cover everything from paper, glass and plastic through to fluorescent bulbs and electronics. It’s also perfectly placed to access the city’s music, fashion, arts and technology scenes. As is the latest Meliá offering

in London - aptly named ME london (melia.com). Perfectly located in the city’s Covent Garden area, amid an array of world-class shops and at the heart of London’s vibrant art and culture scene, it’s a must for fashion-loving culture vultures. Toast your trip with a meal at the Radio Rooftop Restaurant and enjoy panoramic views of London’s skyline, such as Tower Bridge and the River Thames. Further East, anantara Xishuangbanna Resort & Spa is the first five star resort to open in Xishuangbanna, in China’s Yunnan Province. Home to many ethnic tribes and with

China’s most diverse and breathtaking scenery on its doorstep – the resort is the perfect base from which to explore. Those looking for somewhere a little closer to home will be pleased to hear The Ritz-Carlton abu Dhabi, grand Canal (ritzcarlton.com) is expected to open its doors this month. Inspired by the romance of Venice, the hotel offers incredible views of the tranquil waters of the Grand Canal, the stunning pool around which the crescent-shaped resort sits and the iconic Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. 10 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Green day

KWT finds out why the world’s iconic landmarks are preparing to ‘go green’ this month… From the Pyramids of Giza to the Burj Al Arab: this month some of the world’s most iconic landmarks will turn a shade of green in honour of St Patrick’s Day. To celebrate the Irish holiday, which takes place on March 17, a host of ancient and modern wonders will be bathed in green light: part of Tourism Ireland’s annual ‘global greening’ initiative. Among the landmarks set to participate are: the ‘Welcome’ sign in Las Vegas; the Christ the Redeemer statue, in Brazil; the Citadel, in Jordan; Italy’s Leaning Tower of Pisa; and the Little Mermaid, in Copenhagen. “We are absolutely delighted that so many well-known sites and attractions are eager to come on board with us,” said Niall Gibbons, Tourism Ireland’s chief executive. “The eagerness to take part underlines the strength of the deep spiritual connection that people everywhere feel to Ireland.” This is the fourth year of the initiative, with previous participants

including Niagra Falls, in Canada, the Sydney Opera House, Australia, Table Mountain, South Africa, and New York’s Empire State Building – many of which will take part again. Among those back for more is the Burj Al Arab hotel, in Dubai – which participated in the initiative last year and will have its green lights switched on by an Irish-Emirati family this time. And across towns in Britain, Europe and North America, expect to see a host of local sites picking up the green gauntlet, from town halls to rivers. The ‘global green’ campaign is just a small part of ‘The Gathering Ireland 2013’, a year-long programme of festivals, events and gatherings that take place across Ireland in celebration of all things Irish. “Over 70 million people around the world claim links with Ireland,” Gibbons said. “St Patrick’s Day is a unique opportunity to reconnect them with their heritage.”

hot offers

CITY BREAKS

These great deals from Kanoo Travel make exploring new destinations irresistible

BANGKOK, THAILAND 4 days, 3 nights From $885 pp While there is no denying the frenetic pace of Bangkok, there is a softer, more soothing side to the Thai capital too. When the wealth of markets and cultural attractions leave you craving respite, head to Benjakitti Park for incredible views of the city’s skyline: budding photographers can capture its reflection in the large lake. Meanwhile, those happy for an early start can watch the locals practice Tai Chi in Lumpini Park. Mesmerising.

ISTANBUL, TURKEY 4 days, 3 nights From $595 Istanbul remains one of the most popular city destinations in the world and it’s not difficult to see why. Take a trip back in time and meander through the stunning historic centre – partially listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site – where you can admire the Byzantine and Ottoman architecture of the Hagia Sophia and the Suleymaniye Mosque. Haggle for bargains at the Grand Bazaar before sampling the best of Turkish cuisine at one of the city’s many eateries.

12 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

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KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA 4 days, 3 nights From $915 pp Malaysia’s capital is a shopper’s paradise with plenty to satisfy every taste, from local handicrafts through to designer wares. At the heart of the city is Central Market, a vibrant one-stop shop for art, traditional clothing and batik fabric, while Aseana is the place to head for the best international and local designer fashion names. After a busy day of spending, rest your weary head at one of the city’s many five-star hotels.

SRI LANKA 4 days, 3 nights From $425 pp Whether you want to stretch out on perfect sandy beaches, watch leopards stalk lush green terrain, kayak through exotic lagoons or explore the ancient healing powers of Ayurveda, Sri Lanka holds the key. March provides the perfect weather to explore the country’s tea valley and Cultural Triangle – home to five of Sri Lanka’s seven UNESCO World Heritage sites. Marvel at the ancient ruins in Anuradhapura and Sigiriya’s Lion Rock, home to an extraordinary royal palace. March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 13

A WEEKEND IN LUXURY A radiant pearl in the heart of the capital yet secluded from the bustling city, Al Raha Beach Hotel now offers 144 new reasons to visit! All rooms and suites have uninterrupted views of the shimmering water or sun-drenched courtyard and extra space for families with rooms of 65 sqm. Book now at Al Raha Beach Hotel with rates starting from 599* including breakfast, free WIFI, access to recreational facilities and VIP treatment. Exclusive 20% discount* in our spa and restaurants and a 50% discount* for weekend extended over Saturday night. To make a booking or for more information call +971 2 508 0555 or 800 ALRAHA *Terms & conditions apply

Managed by Danat Hotels & Resorts, a Division of National Corporation for Tourism and Hotels PO Box 38616, Abu Dhabi, U.A.E. | T. +971 2 508 0555 | F. +971 2 508 0444 | E. info.alraha@danathotels.com | www.danathotels.com A Member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts

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A grAnd design As we continue our exploration of the world’s most illustrious hotels, we head to Vienna, Austria to discover the 142-year-old charm of the Grand Hotel Wien… The Grand Hotel Wien has a history rich in firsts: from its status as the first luxury hotel in Vienna to being the first to introduce refined French cuisine to Austria. Today, 142 years on, it remains both an historical landmark and one of the Austrian capital’s most luxurious hotels. The Grand Hotel Wien opened in 1870, amid much fanfare and to the delight of the upper echelons of Vienna. The first hotel to be built on the then new, prestigious Ringstrasse boulevard, and set amid imposing cultural and political edifices including the imperial opera house (now Vienna State Opera) and the Musikverein concert hall - it immediately attracted wellheeled guests eager to sample its modern facilities. An advert published in The Hotels of Europe magazine a year after the hotel opened described it as a “first-class hotel” with 300 rooms and apartments and a steam-operated lift. The hotel also boasted stables for the guests’ horses, a coffee house and restaurants. Unsurprisingly, such top-class facilities drew an elite crowd: from the renowned Austrian painter August Eisenmenger, who painted a fresco on the hotel’s dining room ceiling, to the King of Belgium, who visited in 1873. That same year, chef de cuisine Louis Tremmel arrived at the Grand Hotel Wien, bringing with him refined French cooking. Royals continued to flock to the hotel in the 1880s and, in 1888, it found itself at the centre of a tragedy that would change the course of the Austrian-Hungarian monarchy’s history. Countess Marie Larisch (a niece of Empress Elisabeth), who would regularly stay at the hotel when in Vienna, introduced the Crown Prince Rudolf of Habsburg (a close acquaintance) to a young and beautiful baroness called Mary Vetsera. The two began a doomed affair that took place, in part, at March 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 15

Images:Supplied

the Grand Hotel Wien. In 1888, the Emperor asked his son to end his relationship with the 16-year-old baroness, who was by that time pregnant. When her mother found out, Mary fled to the Grand Hotel Wien to seek refuge with Countess Larisch. Soon after, the Crown Prince was spotted visiting the hotel. He had the baroness transferred to his hunting lodge in Mayerling where, on April 29, 1889, he is believed to have shot her before shooting himself. Rudolf was heir to the throne of the combined Austrian-Hungarian empire. As he had no son, succession would pass to Rudolf’s uncle, Franz Josef’s brother, and his son Archduke Franz Ferdinand. It was the assassination of the Archduke in 1914 by the Serbian nationalist Gavrilo Princip that led to 16 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

the start of the First World War. Of course, it wasn’t just the monarchy that was captivated by the Grand Hotel Wien’s ample charms. Music royalty, too, became a fixture at Vienna’s hottest spot: among them, Johann Strauss II. Live performances of The Waltz King’s scores could often be heard emanating from the walls – usually conducted by his brother Eduard. The great maestro himself, at the time a huge star, was a guest of the hotel in 1894 for a celebratory dinner to mark his 50th year as a composer. More than 200 guests, including his wife and the famous composer Johannes Brahms, joined him, while from a room next door the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia listened, enthralled.

In 1911 the hotel bought two adjacent buildings, adding another 100 rooms, a couple more music rooms, lifts and a courtyard. However, just a few years later the First World War was declared and the history of the hotel falls silent. After the war, the city slowly returned to normal and the hotel welcomed leading musicians back into its hospitable folds, including the international music icon Josephine Baker. Many of them performed during the summer on a specially built terrace and during the 1930s things remained buoyant, with artists in town to perform at the opera using the hotel’s music rooms to rehearse, to the delight of fellow guests. Again, the hotel’s history falls silent during the Second World War however, when the war ended, the Grand Hotel Wien was taken over by Soviet troops. It finally reopened in 1957 and it was around this time that a member of Middle Eastern royalty, in town for medical checks, had meals delivered from the hotel to the clinic, daily, in two Rolls Royces. A year later, while filming “The Journey” in Vienna, director Anatole Litvak brought a litany of famous names to the hotel – including Deborah Kerr and Yul Brynner. But the hotel’s post-war success was shortlived. In 1958 Austria succeeded in bringing the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) to Vienna. A great coup for the country, placing it at the centre of diplomatic circles again, it came with a hefty price: the Grand Hotel Wien ceased to be a hotel, becoming the IAEA headquarters until 1979. After the agency left, it would be another decade before the Japanese hotel chain All Nippon Airways (ANA) would invest in the building’s renovation. In June 1994, albeit under a new name, the ANA Grand Hotel reopened its doors much to the pleasure of the world’s leading politicians, businessmen and performers. Among its guests were UN Secretary Generals Boutros-Boutros Ghali and Kofi Annan, Japanese royalty and The Three Tenors – Placido Domingo, Luciano Pavarotti and José Carreras. Finally, on August 1, 2002, JJW Hotels and Resorts, founded by Saudi entrepreneur Mohamed Bin Issa Al Jaber, acquired the hotel and today it operates once more as the Grand Hotel Wien, one of Austria’s finest abodes. grandhotelwien.com

Hot offers

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THE PRIZE With the sun shining and the weather balmy, there has never been a better time to spend a weekend on Dubai’s glorious beachfront; and JA Oasis Beach Tower is perfectly placed to offer a luxurious home away from home while you do so. Situated on The Walk, the city’s bustling outdoor shopping promenade, the beach and Dubai Marina are just a few steps away. Choose from deluxe two-, three- or four-bedroom apartments – each of which boast a waterfront view as well as spacious contemporary living quarters that come equipped with everything you could need. After breakfast, head to the beach or take a leisurely stroll to admire the yachts on display at the exclusive Dubai Marina Yacht Club. Those wishing to stay closer to home can take a dip in the Tower’s private pool before retiring to a sunlounger, while the children make full use of the waterslide. When it comes to food, take a break from cooking and explore the plethora of fantastic eateries in and around the property – including its ‘thyme’ restaurant. jaresortshotels.com

18 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

A two night stay at JA Oasis Beach Tower for up to four adults in a two-bedroom apartment, including breakfast. To enter, email easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com with your answer before 31 March, 2013. Q. On which popular outdoor promenade is JA Oasis Beach Tower situated?

TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is valid for one year, excluding Eid and peak periods, and is subject to availability. It includes tax/service charges, is non-transferable and is not exchangeable for cash. Advance reservation is required.

check in | where to retreat

WheRe To ReTReAT...

ThAilAnd

Whether it’s to get fit, de-stress or simply escape the daily grind, these stylish bolt holes have got your every need covered. Detoxing never seemed so appealing...

START

Northern delight

Perfectly placed

OR OR

Holistic healer

Southern belle

Stress saver

Energy maker

Tao Garden

Kamalaya

tao-garden.com

kamalaya.com

Eastern and Western medical practices combine at this holistic health spa that aims to heal the body and soul within the lush green hills of Chiang Mai, northern Thailand. Sip juice made from organic fruit and vegetables grown on site, or indule in any number of treatments on offer.

If life becomes too much, or your body feels weary, recharge your batteries at this Koh Samui retreat and let the experts get you back on track. Stay at the resort’s beachfront villa for secluded luxury and unspoilt views of the private beach, before falling asleep to the sound of the ocean. Bliss.

Scenic stunner

Eternal beauty

Detox deliverer

Anantara Golden Triangle

Chiva Som

Absolute Sanctuary

Rayavadee

goldentriangle.anantara.com

chivasom.com

absolutesanctuary.com

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If the stunning views of the region from this enchanting hillside location don’t move you, then the captivating sight of the resident elephants bathing will.

More than just a spa, this stylish resort boasts US-trained dermatologists offering a range of treatments aimed at leaving you looking and feeling great.

If you’ve over indulged, head here to right those wrongs. The detox programme is a must: comprehensive and guaranteed to leave you lighter and glowing.

Arrive by speedboat to this über luxurious resort, perfectly located for exploring nearby Phuket, Phi Phi Island and the enchanting Phang Nga Bay.

Explorer’s haven

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 19

Launched by LUX* Resorts in December 2011, Island Light celebrates the nature, culture, flavours and wares of the Indian Ocean’s most breathtaking islands – La Réunion, Mauritius and the Maldives. Inspired by the notion that time is a luxury we can’t afford to waste, LUX* has created a simpler, more relaxed holiday experience where each moment matters. It’s a ‘lighter, brighter’ approach to luxury that is spontaneous and authentic. From secret bars and pop-up restaurants to al fresco film screenings, unique and memorable experiences wait around every corner… All conceived to inspire, surprise and delight. What’s more, because LUX* Resorts do the ordinary in new and extraordinary ways, their guests always get more out of the simple pleasures of island life. Take Café LUX*, where you can sip coffee made with freshly roasted organic beans, or Island Kitchen, with mouthwatering dishes inspired by local cuisine. Thanks to Phone Home, guests can make long distance calls… Free of charge! There’s Mamma Aroma – a delightful range of essential oils made with the islands’ finest ingredients, and Scrucap – a fantastic collection of South African wines acclaimed by venerated wine critic, John Platter. They even make their own delectable range of ice creams, ‘ICI’. Yum! And if you’re looking for a step-by-step path to a healthier, better way of life, you’ll love LUX* Me – a wellness plan that will help you sustain the holiday spirit long after you return home...

IT’S TIME FOR SOMETHING FRESH. Say goodbye to tired, predictable, cookie-cutter resort holidays… Say hello to Island Light – a new and exciting hospitality concept that will have you celebrating life!

Discover Island Light for yourselves and before you know it, you’ll be celebrating life to the full!

Book now and benefit from the Fabulous, Special Honeymoon, or Kids Stay Free offer. For further information call +230 698 22 22 / 27 27 or visit luxresorts.com or call your travel agent.

MALDIVES

ILE DE LA REUNION

MAURITIUS

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paradise found Escape the daily grind at one of these exclusive Indian Ocean gems

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 21

Jumeirah dhevanafushi and Jumeirah Vittaveli With two resorts dedicated to ensuring guests are cocooned in a blissful state of relaxation, Jumeirah’s Maldives properties ensure all your needs are covered. Arrive at the exquisite Jumeirah Dhevanafushi, Maldives and be transported to a hidden paradise on the south end of the Maldivian landscape, 10 kilometres from the nearest island. Stay at an exclusive two-bedroom Beach Sanctuary – one of two such suites at the resort – for luxurious comfort and total seclusion. Rejuvenate with a dip in your private infinity pool, or lie back on a sun lounger and let the hypnotic sound of the ocean soothe your senses. For foodies, the new contemporary pan-Asian menu on offer at Johara restaurant is a must. Hop on a speedboat from the mainland to Ocean Pearls, just 800 metres away, to dine with views of the infinity pool and horizon beyond before heading back to the mainland to toast your holiday from your private terrace. Meanwhile, those with young children will find everything they need and more at Jumeirah Vittaveli, home to one of the largest kids’ clubs in the Maldives. The resort is geared to ensuring every member of your family, no matter how young, has the time of their life. From adapted children’s menus through to baby sitting services and a variety of activities guaranteed to keep them entertained, including arts and crafts and cooking classes. With the children entertained, take advantage of some me time and unwind at the sublime Talise Spa. Try the Spa’s Island of Life treatment – a 90 minute treatment using locally-produced extra virgin coconut oil – or the Boli Malaafath Neshun, 75 minutes of sublime massage inspired by traditional dance movements. Perfection.

22 March 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Images: Clockwise from top: Johara restaurant (Dhevanafushi); Sinbad’s Kids Club (Vittaveli); VIP Ocean Suite at Talise Spa (Vittaveli); Bedroom at Beach Sanctuary (Dhevanafushi)

jumeirah.com

kwt promotion

Viceroy Maldives viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/maldives

Come and experience the magic of Viceroy Maldives: •

Located on the remote island of Vagaru, each of its 61 villas boast soaring floor-to-ceiling windows with spectacular views of the ocean and beyond.

•

Viceroy Maldives offers beach and water villas of up to 314 square metres, and ample distance between each promises privacy is retained.

•

Families can enjoy one of the 12 two-bedroom duplex abodes and take advantage of light and airy loft space, which provides a haven for those needing a moment of solitude and boasts incredible panoramic views.

•

For more serious me time, the overwater Spa offers a sanctuary brimming with traditional treatments aimed at guiding you to a state of pure relaxation.

•

Those with children needn’t feel guilty, as the Viceroy Maldives’ Generation V offers a wealth of activities aimed at keeping the younger family members entertained.

•

Discover some of the world’s most impressive marine life during one of the daily snorkelling or PADI-licensed dive excursions, or stay closer to home and explore the resort’s house reef.

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 23

Kanuhura, The Maldives kanuhura.com

After some time on the beach, rinse off sandy feet with a coconut ladle of water before retreating to the bathroom for a shower beneath the sky or a soak in the freeform stone bath big enough for two, while watching the fish pass beneath you. Later, beneath the billowing cotton ceiling of Kanuhuraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spa, discover the healing power of the Maldivian Theyo Dhemun: a traditional Maldivian massage using exotic tropical oils that is dedicated to dissolving any remaining tension.

To experience local culture, you need go no further than Haruge, the first traditional arts and cultural centre to be established at a Maldivian resort. Pick up some souvenirs by local mat weavers, goldsmiths and lacquer artists who produce crafts in front of you, and get a true taste of the Maldives by sampling freshly prepared local delicacies. When the sun sets, ask obliging hotel staff to organise an intimate candlelit dinner under the stars on the neighbouring desert island of Jehunuhura. Magical.

Image: Aerial view of Kanuhura resort

From the beautiful villas set in azure lagoon waters to its inviting spa: a stay at Kanuhura promises chic, laidback luxury at every turn. Magnificent views are guaranteed, whether you choose lagoon or beach access villas but, for ocean lovers, the Grand Water Villa is a must. Beneath the sun-bleached wooden stilts it sits upon, marine life whirls â&#x20AC;&#x201C; visible through the crystal clear waters. Keen divers should hotfoot it to the Sun Dive Centre as there are more than 40 sites to explore in the area.

24 March 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

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Le Touessrok, Long Beach and Ambre resorts, Mauritius

Images: Clockwise from top: Dinner overwater at Le Touessrok; The main pool at Long Beach; Le Touessrok Golf Course

sunresortshotels.com

For a romantic and utterly secluded stay in the sun, check in to Le Touessrok hotel, on the east coast of Mauritius. Rooms boast postcard-perfect views of glorious beaches and the Indian Ocean beyond. Admire them over a specially prepared candlelit dinner on a floating platform or feast at one of the hotel’s seven restaurants. For that special occasion don’t hesitate to consult with the personalised butler service - on hand, day and night, to make your stay a memorable one. Those looking for more urban and contemporary environs should check in to Long Beach. This family-friendly hotel offers guests spacious five-star living that includes airy rooms and beautifully landscaped gardens filled with indigenous plants. Built around the concept of Italian life, at the heart of the resort is a lively central square framed by restaurants, bars and boutiques. Those seeking a more laid back atmosphere with friends or family can relax at Ambre hotel, in Palmar. Sample the best the resort has to offer – including its Mauritian Spa – while your children have fun with new friends under the watchful eyes of the Sun Kids Club team. Bliss. All three resorts are within easy reach of the spectacular Ile aux Cerfs, or Deer Island, and boast preferential access to the world-renowned Le Touessrok Golf Course that sits upon it. Voted one of the top ten golf courses in the world, the championship 18-hole, par 72 course, designed by the German professional golfer Bernhard Langer, offers plenty of challenges for more experienced golfers and exciting, playable holes for recreational users alike.

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sugar Beach and La pirogue resorts, Mauritius

Those seeking an arguably more exotic Mauritius should head to the mountainous west coast of the island. Flanked on one side by the ocean and on the other by dramatic granite peaks, both Sugar Beach resort and neighbouring La Pirogue offer excellent bases from which to explore the landscape and myriad attractions. Close to the vibrant and cosmopolitan town of Port Louis, and Mauritius’ second biggest town, Curepipe, the resorts also share Flic en Flac beach and are a short distance from Casela Nature and Leisure Park. 26 March 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Framed by beautifully manicured lawns, Sugar Beach is steeped in nostalgia: designed to echo the traditional sugar plantations of Mauritius, with a grand and imposing central manor house at its heart. If you are looking for an elegant and classic abode from which to experience the beauty of Mauritius, and its colonial past, then look no further: think rich mahogany furniture and king-size beds dressed in plush soft furnishings of pale green and beige. Admire the incredible sunsets from the comfort of the day bed on your private

balcony before heading to the courtyard, which comes alive with music, shows and a crafts market. For ocean-lovers, La Pirogue is the perfect catch. Inspired by Mauritius’ deep-hulled fishing boats and filled with the rustic warmth of wood and indigenous palm thatch, each sailing boat-shaped cottage of volcanic rock, opens onto the resort’s private palmgrove, with incredible ocean vistas. Go deep-sea fishing or take a catamaran cruise in the Rivière Noire before returning to the comfort and peace of your bungalow.

Images: Clockwise from top: The central manor house at Sugar Beach; The pool at La Pirogue; A superior room at Sugar Beach

sunresortshotels.com

resort experience in Seychelles

A MAGICAL PLACE TO REVIVE THE SENSES Imagine a natural paradise of lush tropical vegetation, pure white sand beaches, brilliant turquoise seas and space aplenty. Situated on 2 of the most breathtaking beaches on the island of MahĂŠ, and overlooking the marine national park of Port Launay, this beautiful landscape is the stunning backdrop for Constance Ephelia. Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/ 73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com

Picture this

MAsAi MArA reserVe Kenya

This herd of African elephants, young and old, cut striking figures amid the lavender-hued purpleneedle grass of the Masai Mara reserve. The rolling landscape - a rich pallette of golds, burnt amber and every imaginable shade of green - is one of the best places to spot these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat. Established in 1961 to protect wildlife from poachers, the Kenyan reserve is one of the most important wildlife areas in the world. Its vast ecosystem is home to the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;big fiveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - buffalo, elephants, leopards, lions and rhino. Go in July or August for spectacular views of The Great Migration - when some two million mammals cross from the Serengeti. Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Picture this

sAndy sPit neAr jost VAn dyke British Virgin Islands, Caribbean

If you are asked to picture a desert island, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s likely this is the image your mindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye will conjure up. That could be because the glorious spectacle of the uninhabited half-acre Sandy Spit, which lights up the azure Caribbean waters with its crystal-like sand, has made it prime fodder for advertising campaigns. Situated just 2.7 miles east of Jost Van Dyke, the luminous white sand frames lush green foliage and palm trees. This unspoilt paradise offers a peaceful haven for tourists staying on busier islands nearby, but beware: unspoilt means no toilet facilities or refreshment sellers, so go prepared. Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Picture this

hong Kong island Hong Kong, China

This spectacular shot of Hong Kong Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-rise skyline and the verdant mountain ranges beyond was not taken from the air but from the second tallest building in Hong Kong - Two International Finance Centre. The 415-metre tall building, which loses out to its neighbour, One International Finance Centre, in the size stakes, is home to some of the biggest banking names in the world - including the Bank of America and the Hong Kong Monetary Authority. Hong Kong is home to the highest concentration of skyscrapers and high-rise buidings in the world: creating a striking combination of dense urban jungle interspersed with vibrant green spaces. Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

a sicilian symphony | italy

A Sicilian Symphony Harriet Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien is swayed by the charm of Scicli

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 35

mid all the swirls of wroughtiron balconies and flamboyant stonework, I half expected a window to fling open and an impassioned soprano to lean out giving full voice to an aria. Even though it was bustling with contemporary café life on a Saturday evening, Via Francesco Mormino Penna looked surreally like an opera stage set. Several small groups, for all the world like members of a crowd-scene chorus, were sitting out at a couple of restaurant terraces on the beautifully lit street, while up in the night sky two wonderfully illuminated façades of distant church buildings punctuated the darkness. I had made my way to Scicli (pronounced ‘shickly’), in the south-east corner of Sicily, straight from Catania’s Vincenzo Bellini airport, driving for a couple of hours on ever quieter roads that the blackness of the winter evening imbued with a sense of lonely remoteness. I wound along the coast and 36 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

then up into hills, before abruptly descending into this bright hub where it seemed that suddenly all human life had gathered. The party mood was all the more appealing for being entirely local: for all that winter temperatures are generally a happy 15°C or more in the day, and at least 9°C or so at night, there are unaccountably few visitors at this time of year. I had come in quest of blue skies, bright sunshine – and sublime architecture. Scicli lies in Sicily’s remarkable Val di Noto, which became a World Heritage Site in June 2002. It’s a strikingly rugged area containing a string of extraordinary towns, phoenixlike places of great glory. Back in 1693, an earthquake reduced much of the human habitation here to rubble. Yet out of disaster came exuberant re-creation: great swathes of eight ancient towns were rapidly rebuilt in the prevailing, fabulously opulent, late Baroque style. Set at a natural crossroad of canyons, Scicli is particularly spectacular, the

Opening page: Sunset scene. This page, clockwise from top left: View of Ragusa Ibla; Fiat 500 driving down a cobblestone street; Baroque balcony, Palazzo Nicolaci, Noto.

environmental drama around enhanced by theatrical urban planning. The town looked sensational under a cobalt sky the next morning, its pinky-cream stone glowing in near melodramatic light. It was Sunday and the air was infused with the sound of church bells. Straggles of people were chatting in the two main squares, big men with small dogs on leads, a few ladies in black. A rapid ribbon of cyclists in stand-out shades of Lycra swooshed past the handsome

a sicilian symphony | italy

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The mix of medieval and Baroque worlds was beautifully evident at the town of Ragusaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 37

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a sicilian symphony | italy

town hall, trailed by a tiny old Fiat with spare bike wheels dwarfing its mini roof rack. That town hall would look familiar to any viewers of the Montalbano television series (based on the novels by Andrea Camilleri), which has been helping to put Scicli and south-east Sicily firmly on the tourist map. On screen the building is the bullish detective’s police station. It was my first port of call on a tour around town that day. I was staying nearby at an elegant 19th-century palazzo, now wonderfully refurbished as a nine-bedroom boutique hotel complete with original painted ceilings. At Hotel Novecento I’d been warmly welcomed the night before. “Sicilians take enormous pride in hospitality,” beamed the proprietor, Donatella Tognon. The next morning, she offered to show me around town, accompanied by two other local residents. After the screen-star town hall we paused by the quirky, moustachioed faces decorating the exterior of 18th-century Palazzo Beneventano before heading to San Bartolomeo. It’s Scicli’s most fantastically showy church, said my companions as they showed me its ornate interior, home to a large nativity scene so exquisite it remains on display all year round. Outside were other intriguing creations: we climbed an adjacent hill for a view over former cave dwellings cut into the limestone rock; amazingly, they were in everyday domestic use as recently as the 1950s. The mix of medieval and Baroque worlds was beautifully evident the next day at the town of Ragusa. I set off from Scicli in another great blast of morning sunshine, firmly advised by Donatella to follow roads to the lower town, known as Ibla, rather than the higher, more industrial sector. Low turned out to be a relative term. The road leads along an escarpment and suddenly presents a terrific view: draped over a hill in front of you is a jaw-dropping mass of terracotta roofs dotted with domes and spires. Ragusa is divided into distinct parts because of the 1693 earthquake. After this disaster the wealthier inhabitants opted to create a new town on a ridge above their flattened old centre — and this is now trimmed with further, modern, additions. Many poorer residents, however, dug their heels in and during the early 18th century rebuilt their hill-town on the same spot,

Opposite page: Man selling oranges at the market. This page, from top: Elderly woman and her granddaughter walking in one of the old streets; Black vespa in Ragusa Ibla. Next page: Harbour, Egadi islands.

using pretty much the same street plans. So Ibla, or lower Ragusa, is in many ways still a medieval town, its buildings set along curving lanes. Shoehorned into the tiny streets are magnificent Baroque churches and a sprinkling of snazzy palazzi. The dome of the cathedral of San Giorgio appears suddenly at the end of a narrow lane. A sweeping palmlined square magically opens out in front of this tall building I marvelled at the splendid

balconies of Palazzo Cosentini, supported by intricately carved corbels. I admired the wedding cake façade of the church of San Giuseppe and the lovely bell tower of Santa Maria dell’Idria, topped with a little blue dome. Perhaps best of all was Giardino Ibleo at the foot of town, a beautifully planted public space with an impressive avenue of palms and walkways offering staggering views over the craggy countryside beyond. March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 39

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye Text: Harriet O’Brien / The Independent / The Interview People

‘I took in a magnificent blood-red sunset over the beach and the 15th-century military tower there, built to defend the district against raids from Saracen pirates’

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Even in winter it would be an oversight to visit this part of Sicily without seeing something of the coast, so I headed south. I drove along empty roads fringed with cacti and great clusters of pampas grass, stopping at fishing villages: Donnalucata, whose natural harbour has been in use since Moorish times; pretty Sampieri and, just beyond it, the striking remains of the brick factory of Penna. At the busy port of Pozzalo I took in a magnificent blood-red sunset over the beach and the 15th-century military tower there, built to defend the district against Saracen pirates. Just a few kilometres inland, another ancient military defence tower is now a haven of a hotel. You bump over a small level crossing and then plunge along the rough

road of an organic farm to reach Relais Torre Marabino. With seven bedrooms, beautifully tended grounds and one of the best restaurants in the area (locals flock here), it exudes informal charm. I was expecting to be less enthralled by a tour of the organic farm around the hotel. But the zeal of the manager, Roberto Giadone, was compelling. Tomatoes, courgettes, peppers suddenly offered an insight into the intrinsically Sicilian enjoyment of life. Music was audible too. Ah yes, Roberto explained, he’d found that the vegetables seemed to grow better to the strains of a soothing symphony. And did they like opera? I asked, thinking back to stage-set Scicli. Only the most melodious of arias, came the reply.

Size matters There’s more to the vibrant Chinese region of Macau than immediately meets the eye, as Tom Peck discovers on a walk through its colonial past

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rder a generous slice of Macau and you’d be brave to swallow it whole. This is a historical layer cake of clashing flavours. Long, unremarkable centuries of sleepy ancient Chinese fishing villages infused with a whiff of incense from Taoist temples. A slab of Portuguese colonialism – rich, centuriesthick and packed with spices. And on top, a great slathered-on crust of neon candy – luminescent pink, saccharine sweet, salivainducing. But then, why not take the risk?

This is a special administrative region of China – along with Hong Kong, which is about 40 miles east across the Pearl River delta – and it was a Portuguese colony until as late as 1999. Macau’s tallest building, Grand Lisboa, is an 856ft-high golden lotus flower, towering over the delicate churches, gardens and temples of the Unesco-listed historic centre. In its glass dome stamen is the three-Michelinstarred Robuchon au Dôme, regularly named the finest restaurant in Asia. For those who

size matters | china

can handle just the one Michelin star, The Eight – still inside the Grand Lisboa – is an extraordinary dim sum restaurant. On leaving the Lisboa, look out for the 218-carat ‘Star of Stanley Ho’ diamond on display in the lobby, the largest of its type in the world, and named after the nonagenarian billionaire gaming mogul who owns the place. For 40 years from the late Sixties, he held the monopoly over gaming here, and is one of Asia’s richest men. He bought the diamond three years ago, and has been cagey about

the price, revealing only that it’s “in the hundreds of millions”. Back in daylight, turn left and walk for a quarter of a mile round the curving Avenida de Praia Grande, past the pink columns of the Macau Military Club, once the Portuguese officers’ mess, now a popular colonial-style dining room. Pass the pretty flowerbeds of the Sao Francisco Gardens, and turn right again up the steep hill of Calcada de Sao Joao, until it opens into one of the many colonial

promenades of Macau’s historic centre. Here, is the cathedral, part of which dates back to 1622, about 50 years after the Portuguese had turned what was then a little peninsula at the Pearl River delta into a trading port of world importance. It is only one of 30 or so colonial relics – churches, barracks, squares and fortresses – in the historic centre, where for hundreds of years east met west like never before. Follow the bend round and head down Travessa do Bispo for 50 yards or so, and turn

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44 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

size matters | china Opposite page, clockwise from top right: Congee; Man with festival decoration; Preparing food in Rua do Almirante Sergio; The historic centre; A downtown street; Grand Lisboa Hotel. This page: Inscribed boulder at A-Ma Temple; Previous page: Farmer working lotus ponds.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock Text: Tom Peck / The Independent

‘Your nose will tell you when you’ve arrived: incense coils hang in the air’ left on to the pedestrianised walkways of Rua de Sao Domingos. After another 50 yards bear right on to Rua da Palha, glancing left at the beautiful St Dominic’s Church, where, in 1822, the first Portuguese newspaper was printed in Macau. Past 300 yards of designer boutiques set between lemon-coloured columns is what was, until the super-casinos rolled in, Macau’s postcard-perfect view. Only the façade of the 400-year-old St Paul’s Church remains. The rest was destroyed by fire in 1835. Turn right down Calcada do Amparo and at the end turn right on Rua dos Mercadores and follow it round until it meets with Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau’s central thoroughfare. Here, just to the right of the junction, in a tiny alleyway between two nondescript shops, resides one of Macau’s lesser-known stars. The congee stand here was always popular. Congee is a rice porridge served with nearly anything, including innards. But after the chef, who likes to sing at his customers, was

featured on a Malaysian TV programme, he found himself sought out by Malaysian tourists, and eventually by everyone. Congee is an acquired taste, somewhere between semolina and rice pudding, and served here with big lumps of meat, but it’s certainly popular. To the left of the junction is Senado Square, where Macau’s government met in the Leal Senado buildings until 1999. From here it is a little more than half a mile’s walk to the peninsula’s most famous temple, A-Ma. Take the Rua de Alfandega at Senado Square’s far end, turning right on to Rua do Padre Antonio. You’ll pass dozens of squares and churches, as well as the Pedro V theatre and the Moorish barracks. Your nose will tell you when you’ve arrived: incense coils hang in the air above the largest and oldest temple in Macau, built in 1488. Three hundred yards north, this time up the Rua do Almirante Sergio, is Café Litoral. For all the lobster tail and wagyu beef flooding into Macau, its native cuisine

is unique, and not to be missed. Culinarily speaking, the Portuguese brought all the distant corners of their empire here, where it met Chinese traditions. In the absence of a mass transit system, jump in a taxi to cross the Ponte da Amizade, or ‘Bridge of Friendship’. It links the peninsula to pretty Portuguese Taipa, the green parks of Coloane, and the reclaimed land of Cotai, which is turning at breakneck speed into the Las Vegas strip. The Venetian hotel is already open, a near replica of its Nevada sister. There’s a St Mark’s Square, completely indoors and without windows. At the Grand Emperor Hotel, the door is guarded by Eastern Europeans dressed as Her Majesty’s Household Cavalry. The Galaxy, the Four Seasons and a brand new Sheraton (set to be Macau’s largest hotel) are all recently completed, as is the vast City of Dreams complex, with a £5m House of Dancing Water theatre show. After a day of historic buildings, it’s time to go back to the future. March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 45

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Bon voyage | FRanCe

Bon Voyage City of Light, capital of romanceâ&#x20AC;Ś Laura Binder finds out if Paris can really live up to the fantasy

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 47

rank Sinatra’s rendition of I love Paris in the Springtime has had me plotting a seasonal city break ever since I first heard it: I’d be dancing round Left Bank à la Goldie Hawn in Everyone Says I Love You and devouring macaroons in no time. Amazingly, despite being British and 30, I was yet to make the short trip to Paris – having seen so much on screen I’d begun to think it was best left as fantasy, avoiding the kind of disappointment you feel on meeting your favourite movie star, only to find they’re five-feet tall – I’ve seen Tom Cruise and I’m not sure I can take another blow. Worse still is the fact that the vocabulary I can muster from my school French class is limited. Thankfully my other half had the gusto to arrive avec (with) phrasebook and – as it later turned out – recited phrases with enough enthusiasm so as to not have us scoffed out of restaurants. The preconception of waiters refusing to speak to those who can’t string a sentence of French together we found to be happily untrue. When we did step out in Paris, spring hadn’t quite made it, rather the February days were crisp and the hope of sunshine hung in the air. Before I’d so much as laid my lips on a croissant, my head was filled with romantic notions and movie scenes: arty types smoking in cafés (always wearing black), showgirls kicking up their heels and Audrey Hepburn’s wardrobe in Paris When it Sizzles. With all my spoon-fed iconography, one thing I’d failed to anticipate was the sheer grandeur of Paris. The architecture is as lovely as the movies depict; the gold statues peering over the River Seine from the Pont Alexandre III bridge the icing on the cake. I abandoned my plan to make like a Parisian – with my French, there’s no point – and snapped away like a true tourist. To find this kind of gold-drenched opulence, the Champs-Élysées quarter is the place to go: think wide boulevards, horse chestnut trees and the priciest real estate in town. But the right hotel can make all the difference in fulfilling or crushing your fantasies – though it’s worth noting that the Ritz Paris is out, closed for the next two years for renovations. We found Hotel Le Meurice a refreshing stroll away, between Place de la Concorde and the Musée du Louvre, on the esteemed Rue de Rivoli. One of a handful of 48 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Opening page: Base of the Eiffel Tower at dusk. This page, from top: Cyclists on the bank of the Seine; Caffe in Rue Montorgueil; Macaroons. Opposite page: Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and The Louvre

Bon voyage | FRanCe

time-honoured names favoured by the jet set, it’s guaranteed to keep you in the lap of luxury between sightseeing – a relief when you’ve spent the day hobbling around in inappropriate ‘Paris shoes’. “Carrie Bradshaw runs around in heels here,” I insisted, concentrating on some cobbles. “That’s make believe”, my partner grunted. When Anna Wintour passed me in the lobby, blunt bob glued over super-sized shades, I knew we’d landed on our feet. It’s not hard to see why it’s the pick of the fashion pack – as one of Paris’ original palaces it’s hosted the royal and rich since 1835. Around me, its white and gold palette carried all the airs and graces of an age-old residence, elevated into the 21st century at the hands

of Philippe Starck: gold awnings covered crevices, bejewelled chandeliers hung over my head, ceilings were hand-painted, and furniture was, at times, surreal (at breakfast I found my chair’s arms were gold wings). Gourmands, meanwhile, are elevated to new culinary heights at the hotel’s daily dining spot – which just happens to be Yannick Alleno’s three-Michelin star Restaurant Le Meurice – with its extravagant 17th century décor and Starck touches, it was the most breathtaking place I’ve ever sipped my morning coffee. Of course, in such star-studded environs staff couldn’t confirm names of their famous guests, I was told as I watched Anna Wintour saunter off – well, not in so many

words: “Anna Wintour, Beyoncé, Kate Moss, presidents… we cannot confirm any of the celebrities that stay with us”. “Mum’s the word,” I nodded. Being surrounded by fashion’s elite – Le Meurice is supermodel-central come Paris Fashion Week – makes it tough to resist the temptation to don your most catwalk-worthy heels. But try. “Sarah Jessica Parker did have breaks between filming”, my partner reminded me as I sullenly pulled on a pair of practical flats. The reason? The capital’s main sights are spread across little more than a 10km radius, which makes Paris a city best navigated on foot. Whether we traversed the Left or Right Bank, metro stops popped up along the streets, so the short on time can March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 49

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Its white and gold palette carried all the airs and graces of an age-old residence, elevated into the 21st century at the hands of Philippe Starckâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

50 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Bon voyage | FRanCe

hop on and off and save public bickering over street maps – “I have to get in the map, like Joey from Friends”, my partner insisted. Don’t save all your romantic strolls for daylight hours, though. The Champs-Élysées is perfect for a moonlit walk – along its milelong stretch trees flickered with fairy lights, taking us to the Arc de Triomphe. But the icon I simply had to tick off my checklist was the Eiffel Tower. Over 250 million people are said to have made their way to its viewing platforms, so it’s another thing worth doing by evening, when queues are much shorter. To imitate Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, we visited by day and found the brown, iron structure piercing the skyline at over 1,000 feet – not quite the sparkling silver beauty I had imagined, but still. In winter, I’m told you can make the Eiffel Tower experience more magical by ice skating on a temporary rink beneath it. But at any time of year, foodies can book a table at Le Jules Verne. The product of Michelinstarred chef Alain Ducasse, a private elevator whisked us 125 metres up – the less fond of heights look away now – and we couldn’t help but feel smug as we drank in the vistas from its sophisticated environs as tourists shuffled around the viewing platform below. Post-meal, diners gained free access too. On the fantasy scale it ticked the obligatory boxes: French cuisine, check, romantic setting, check, Eiffel Tower, check. The menu too, didn’t disappoint – if you’re happy to part with €90 for a three-course lunch. I enjoyed creamy Foie Gras and duck winter salad, tender slow-cooked ox cheek and a punchy little quince and orange tartlet with chestnut ice cream. With Ducasse behind the menus, it proved more than just a gimmick. The Tower’s iron structure and minimalist interiors offered us little cosiness on a cold day – a quality Parisians aren’t necessarily into if another icon is anything to go by: the Louvre. Meander through the gardens of the 12th-century Louvre Palace, in which the museum resides, and its pyramidal glass façade cuts a striking contrast to its classical surrounds. Elsewhere, in the Palace’s former courtyard, a modern ripple of gold metal shades the newest exhibit space of Islamic art, unveiled late last year. As one of the largest museums on the planet, not to mention a historic monument, a tourist trap The Louvre may be, but as it holds some of

Opposite page, from the top: Marco Polo suite, Hotel Le Meurice; Gastronomic restaurant Le Meurice. This page, from top: Moulin Rouge; Cabaret dancers at Moulin Rouge.

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52 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Supplied Text: Laura Binder

the most coveted artworks and antiquities of all time, it would be criminal to skip – though with an area of over 600,000 square feet planning is essential, and you’ll have to fight your way through the crowds for a snap of the Mona Lisa. I was on a roll, ticking off the icons left, right and centre. Memories of The Hunchback of Notre Dame took us to Left Bank to see the Notre Dame itself - there’s even a café called Esmeralda for die-hard fans of the tale; The Devil Wears Prada had me headed for the label-loaded Avenue Montaigne and Galeries Lafayette, a department store that is what Harrods is to London – head there in January or February and you’ll be in time for fantastic sales, minus tourists. Once I stopped peering round every corner for a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, we discovered the less famous face of Paris. Idyllic strolls arm-in-arm around The Islands opened a world of higgledy piggeldy streets lined with twee boutiques – a bespoke milliner in one for Kate Middleton-style headwear, butchers’ windows revealed rows of plump game, delicatessens’ displayed huge wheels of fromage, quaint tea shops showed no sign of the sloppy croque-monsieurs we found in so many tourist-trap cafés - indeed, one tea shop served up the dreamiest cup of hot chocolate I’ve ever tasted. Of course, The Islands are only one part of the unsung Paris worth seeing. The Latin Quarter’s crooked streets was once a hub for French artists; a stroll up nearby St Michel comes peppered with book stores; and the 11th arrondissement is edgy and diverse, and home to Rino, a hip bistro who’s basic décor is defied by its inventive six-course menus – eat there, as we did, and you’ll believe the hype. The charms of Paris are plentiful, I reflected, even when there’s not a spire in sight. When night fell, though, more icons picked at my brain: Moulin Rouge, I cooed. Baz Luhrman’s film version had me idolising Nicole Kidman for weeks – an image I clung on to to as we passed under the venue’s glitzy red windmill, only to be herded in like cattle, sat next to strangers and served over-priced beverages. Come out of that smiling and the fact that this red-hued cabaret haunt has existed since 1889, revived the Belle Époque era and invented the Can Can, makes it all worthwhile. Of course, now the show’s rather more a cross between the

This page: Cobblestone Street in Montmartre. Opposite page: Tour Eiffel , Champ-de-Mars

Eurovision Song Contest and Miss World with its explosions of glitter, feathers and sparkle (and that’s just the men). But it’s French cabaret at its most superbly kitsch. Less obvious, but equally historic, boltholes exist away from the bright lights of Montmarte too – backstreets shelter original jazz lounges, age-old supper clubs and watering holes; notably, Harry’s. Just round the corner from Le Meurice at 5 Rue Daunou, Harry’s was once a meeting place for literary greats of the 1920s – Ernest Hemingway, F Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein all sat inside these walls, I thought, sipping an expertly-created drink.

It was in a wistful state of mind that we retired to Le Meurice each day – a place that did everything to fulfil my French fantasies of unadulterated opulence. Eyes on storks for the next celebrity spot – actress Melissa George with her French bulldog being the only other of that weekend – we found Bar 228’s leather armchairs filled with fashion types and intellectuals, dressed in black: just what I dreamed of. Indeed, make time for both the city’s icons and unsung stars and – as Frank Sinatra sang – whether you go in the ‘summer, when it sizzles’ or ‘in the winter, when it drizzles’, Paris has all the magic you’ll ever need.

Bon voyage | FRanCe

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 53

California dreaming As Palm Springs celebrates its 75th birthday this year, Andy Welch visits Hollywoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desert playground on a road trip to San Diego and Los Angeles

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California Dreaming| USa

f you’ve ever taken an interest in the lives of the great and good of 1950s Hollywood stars, you’ll know Palm Springs was one of their favourite retreats. Even from a distance, it’s very easy to see why the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack (not to mention George Hamilton, Elizabeth Taylor, Jack Benny, Kirk Douglas and Cary Grant) enjoyed relaxing there, whether on long weekends between filming – Los Angeles is just over 100 miles away – or during breaks between shows in Las Vegas, under four hours away by car. Get a little closer, and the appeal of this lush oasis in the middle of the desert – or Hollywood’s playground as it’s often referred to – is everywhere you look. Archaeologists state the Cahuilla people were living in those parts as far back as the 16th century. Mexican explorers familiarised themselves with the area some 300 years later, while the first-known use of the name Palm Springs on a map dates back to 1853. The city as we now know it, however, was officially founded in 1938, meaning Palm Springs is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. And there’s never been a better time to visit. Chances are you’ll be driving there from either LA to the north or San Diego to the south. It’s certainly the best way to experience the landscape, which, putting it mildly, is absolutely jaw-dropping. If you’re driving north east from San Diego, make sure you take Highway 74 rather than sticking to the monotonous, concrete Interstate. It will take a little longer, but the snake-like pass makes for a much more fun drive. More importantly, you’ll pass through the Santa Rosa mountains. Stop off at Vista Point and take in the sprawling cities on the valley floor below, and in the distance, the San Jacinto and San Gorgonio mountains. From here you can also get a taste of just how green Palm Springs looks. For example, there are 38 golf courses, grass-banked streets, parks, and, as you might expect from the name, palm trees everywhere. March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 55

Opening page: Riviera Palm Springs pool. This page, from top: Panda at San Diego Zoo; SeaWorld, San Diego; Golf course in Palm Springs.

‘Driving is certainly the best way to experience the landscape, which, putting it mildly, is absolutely jaw-dropping’

We stayed at the Riviera Palm Springs, which regularly welcomes what the Americans call bachelor and bachelorette parties through its doors, but don’t be put off by that. These are wealthy groups of friends wanting a serious tan ahead of their big day. The hotel itself doesn’t so much nod to its glamorous legacy – Frank Sinatra used to rehearse in the gorgeous ballroom before Vegas residencies – but bask in it. The room I stayed in came complete with cow-print bedhead, overly ornate lamps and other fittings that even Liberace might’ve thought were pushing it a bit. Even the pool table in the lobby has a chandelier over it. Spread over a huge area due to Palm Springs’ strict building-height regulations, there’s a campus feel to the Riviera, and the Tiki-themed circular pool out back is the star attraction. Get yourself a sun lounger, pull out the Jackie O face-obscuring sun glasses and lie back with a drink, imagining you’re not a tourist, but a damaged Hollywood starlet hiding from the paparazzi while getting over your latest divorce. The Joshua Tree National Park is on your doorstep and you’d be a fool to be so close and not pay it a visit. To get the best of the area, go on one of Desert Adventures’ jeep tours. Their guides are as knowledgeable and entertaining as the scenery is breathtaking. Such is its location, if you visit Palm Springs, it’ll likely be in the middle of your tour, or at least not the only place you stay. 56 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

California Dreaming| USa

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 57

San Diego, just a few miles from the Mexican border, is a perfect place to start or end up. The Hyatt Regency is a fantastic place to stay, right next to a harbour and close enough to SeaWorld that you can hear the dolphins splashing about from the balcony. Breakfast on their marina is a perfect start to the day, too. Even if it wasn’t across the road, SeaWorld is a must-see attraction in San Diego, whether you’re interested in petting dolphins, feeding California Bat Rays, watching Shamu and his friends’ aquatic acrobatics or riding on the new magnetic Manta rollercoaster. If you prefer your animals more land-based, head to San Diego Zoo. They have all the favourites – big cats, elephants, a host of apes and primates, huge bird and reptile houses, not to mention the most successful panda breeding scheme outside China. The glamour of the 1950s also runs deep in

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San Diego. Take the San Diego Trolley Tour out to Coronado and stop off at the Hotel Del Coronado, or the ‘Seminole Ritz’ to anyone who loves Some Like It Hot. The ‘Del’ has appeared in a host of other classics, while Wizard Of Oz author L Frank Baum did most of his writing there, looking out at the wild Pacific in front of him, and is said to have based the Emerald City on the building. If San Diego doesn’t take your fancy, you could head west from Palm Springs and visit Los Angeles. There’s no shortage of things to do, whether you just want to stroll down Venice Beach, dodge the desperate wannabe actors outside Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, drive through Laurel Canyon, home to the best of 1970s singer-songwriters, or, continuing the film theme, visit Universal Studios. By night there’s also plenty to keep you occupied. If you stay around West Hollywood,

Previous page clockwise from top left: Chateau Marmont Bungalow; Chateau Marmont exterior, Los Angeles; Aerial view of Palm Springs; Frank Sinatra Drive; Palm-Canyon Drive. This page: Joshua Tree National Park.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock; Supplied Text: Andy Welch / Press Association/ The Interview People

California Dreaming| USa

as we did in the Andaz on Sunset Boulevard, you won’t have to venture too far. Drop in to The Chateau Marmont and you might see an A-lister meeting their agent. Even if you don’t, their drinks are pretty special. Of course, this merely scratches the surface of a city home to some four million people spread over almost 500 square miles. Los Angeles is a busy place, huge too, but teamed with trips to calm and measured Palm Springs and laid-back San Diego, southern California can cater for whatever mood you’re in.

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he day before I leave for Borneo, an island so wild it seems absurd to say you’re going there on holiday – expedition sounds better – someone recommends me a book. It is, of course, Redmond O’Hanlon’s Into the Heart of Borneo, a witty account of the trip he and the poet James Fenton made in 1983. Theirs really was an expedition: they set off up the Rajang river on canoes, looking for rhinoceros in relatively uncharted territory. My own itinerary is slightly less intrepid, though no less exciting. I’m heading for the north coast, where you can see wildlife without needing a snake stick or even malaria tablets. This is Borneo-lite, a gentle introduction to an island where orangutans still swing through the rainforest and much of the landscape is jungle.

I say much: Borneo is known for having one of the world’s most biologically diverse rainforests, but also one of the most endangered. The logging of hardwood has been going on since the 1970s, initially for the wood itself, used to make teak furniture. Latterly, trees have been felled to make way for palm oil plantations. This wonder oil is used in so many products, from biscuits to biodiesel, that as a crop, palm is a sure-fire winner. The trouble is, removing primary rainforest is a potential catastrophe, not only for the environment but also its native species such as the orangutan. The good news is that, thanks to increased awareness, Borneo is making efforts to reposition itself as a responsible tourist destination. There have been clamp-downs on illegal logging, and the plight of the

orangutan, of which there are still 35,000 living on the island, has been recognised. And not just the orangutan: Borneo has an extraordinary diversity of wildlife – proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaques, flying squirrels, clouded cats, hornbills – and the opportunities to see it are improving. My base will be Gaya Island, one of five small islands just across the South China Sea from the regional capital of Kota Kinabalu, or KK, as you learn to call it. This northern portion of Borneo, a state known as Sabah, forms part of Malaysia, along with the neighbouring state of Sarawak. The larger southern half of the island is the Indonesian territory of Kalimantan, with the Kingdom of Brunei wedged into the middle of the Malaysian territories. KK is a fun city for a night out, a low-built former colonial town (Britain ruled

Born to be wild

Borneo’s Gaya Island Resort is perfect for relaxation, but with the jungle on your doorstep you’ll soon leave the spa behind, says Matthew Bell 60 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

BORN TO BE WILD | BORNEO

here until 1963) with plenty of bars and fish markets along the water. Soon after I arrive, the US aircraft carrier John C Stennis pulls into harbour. According to the Daily Express, the excellent local paper (much more informative than the more famous paper of that name), 5,500 sailors who haven’t been ashore for three months will be hitting the town. Just as well we’re off to Gaya Island. That’s all very well, but I wanted monkeys. Patience, says Justin – nature is not like television or the internet; you can’t just switch it on whenever you want. I see my first animal, not in the woods but the poolside bar: a handsome green lizard joins me for a coconut milk. I can’t tell you what variety he is, as whole books have been written about the lizards of Borneo. But he isn’t shy about taking a dip in the pool. Just as

well he has it to himself. You could while away days at Gaya Island doing really not very much: the beach is Bounty-bar white, and there are even hammocks strung between the palm trees. The spa is up the hill in a vast, light-filled sort of temple on its own, surrounded by mangroves. I choose the signature ‘rolling waves’ massage, which is supposed to replicate the movement of the sea, and certainly delivers a good pounding. You can experience most of South-east Asia without leaving the spa, with treatments offered from Bali, Malaysia, Borneo and Thailand. But I had been tantalised by O’Hanlon’s adventures among the Iban people. So I head off to the mainland for a trek up the Kiulu valley, through which a beautiful wide river meanders through the foothills of Mount

Kinabalu. Thrill-seekers can go white-water rafting, but I opt for a mountain bike, taking two friendly locals as guides. The population of Borneo has doubled to 18 million since 1980, partly because of an influx of immigrants into the Indonesian portion of the island. But here in Sabah, everyone still identifies themselves as Dayak, Dusun or Kadazan, the predominant tribes. Learning the many languages is too difficult, but asking which tribe someone belongs to is a good ice-breaker. Junior and Sylvester are two young Dusuns who run Trek Finder Tours out of KK. They have earrings and super hi-tech bikes, but their home village of Kiulu is untouched by time. We reach it by criss-crossing the river over alarmingly creaky rope bridges high above the water, passing through villages

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 61

‘Borneo has an extraordinary diversity of wildlife and the opportunities to see it are improving’ 62 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

where the trees are laden with pineapples and jack fruit. Their village consists of handsome wooden houses dotted about a field of brilliant green. Buffalo mooch about in the mud, each with its own egret perched on top. This is paddy field territory: fertile plains where rice and rubber are grown. We stop and have tea with Mr Francis and Mrs Flora, who also offer home stays. They serve two different cakes made of rice: panjaran, a rice fritter, and tinubong, a softer mix wrapped in a banana leaf. They don’t look much, all brown and sticky, but they don’t taste bad. Mr Francis and Mrs Flora whoop with laughter as we try them. One surprise fact I gleaned from O’Hanlon’s book is that Borneo is the third largest island in the world. Can you name the biggest two? I couldn’t. (It’s Greenland then New Guinea. Australia counts as a continent, apparently.) So don’t expect to see more than a tiny fraction of Borneo in a fortnight’s holiday. Tourism is still relatively new, but the infrastructure is good. A short taxi ride from the airport to the marina is followed by an invigorating dash in a speedboat across the water to Gaya, and suddenly, I’m in a tropical haven. There are only two hotels on the island, and the one I’m in, called simply Gaya Island Resort, is very new and big – 120 villas and suites have been scattered along the water, centred on a pool, bar, library and restaurant complex. It’s an ideal position for those who like

Opening page: Bajau fishermen near Bangkawan Island. This page, clockwise from bottom left: A local Hornbill; Baby orangutan; Floating market; The Iban Warrior demonstrating a traditional dart at the Sarawak Cultural Village; Lowland rainforest in Danum Valley; Prawn stir fry noodles with beans and peas.

BORN TO BE WILD | BORNEO

peace and quiet but want excitement close at hand: from your sunlounger you can gaze across the water to the hurly-burly of KK and Mount Kinabalu beyond – at 4,095m, it’s the tallest mountain in South East Asia – while pondering whether to order lobster or crab. But I want to see wildlife. This is, after all, a long way to travel for a lobster salad. Gaya Island is the largest of a cluster of five outlying islands, and most of its 15sq km are covered in primary forest. As part of a government drive to protect its wildlife, the islands have been designated a marine park. You might March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 63

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BORN TO BE WILD | BORNEO

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‘Gaya Island Resort is spread along the water’s edge, and rising steeply behind it is the wilderness’

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BORN TO BE WILD | BORNEO

species of insect were once identified. We don’t see monkeys that day, but we do see plenty of brightly coloured birds and butterflies. The hornbills are particularly spectacular, swooping down with their broad black wings, making a whooshing sound through the trees. Back on Gaya Island, there is still the water to explore. The resort has a coral reef on its doorstep, just a plop away from the jetty. And it’s here that I finally find nature in all its wild glory: an underwater fashion parade of popinjays and peacocks. Pink, green, scarlet and yellow: there are fish dressed as clowns, others pretending to be zebras, some with stripes, some with spots. And then there is the coral, variously pretending to be shrubs, or tables, or brains. Redmond O’Hanlon may have seen the trophy skulls of head-hunters and stayed in an Iban longhouse, but he didn’t swim through an underwater carnival. Besides, I tell myself as I potter back for a mocktail, this isn’t an expedition. It’s a holiday.

Previous page: Rope Bridge at Rainforest Preserve. Opposite page: Semporne Bay, Sabah. This page: Ocean view of Borneo island.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock Text: Matthew Bell / The Independent on Sunday / The Interview People

think that plonking a resort here would be unlikely to help, but in fact YTL, the owner, is ploughing a lot of money into preserving the wildlife, both in the water and on land. The hotel is spread along the water’s edge, and rising steeply behind it is the wilderness. It is densely wooded, but Justin, the resident naturalist, knows his way around and takes me into the network of paths in search of the proboscis monkey. We climb through trees the like of which I have never seen before. I can tell an oak from a birch, but here you need an encyclopaedia of flora. Luckily I have Justin, who points out the low-lying rattan, with its long frondy palms. Technically, it’s not a tree so much as a vine, but it certainly looks nothing like the furniture you find in conservatories back at home. Then there are the enormous dipterocarps, the tropical hardwoods that surge up like skyscrapers. These are home to many weird and wonderful insects, including termites, that build all sorts of elaborate homes in trunks and on the ground. Apparently on one tree alone, 1,000

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ConCierge | opener

concierGe

Dubai | GuanGzhou | WarsaW | ThailanD

the 30-second concierge

Maurice GiThaGa, The riTz-carlTon, DiFc, Dubai In Dubai’s gastronomic and artistic hub stands this luxurious gem... Our hotel is unique… because it’s the only luxury hotel located at Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), the city’s most vibrant destination for restaurants and the arts. We are connected by a direct walkway to the heart of DIFC, making us the ideal location for a business stay, or for those looking to spend a weekend of leisure in Dubai, exploring some of its key and varied attractions. For the best room in the house… I’d suggest booking a Premium Suite, which are always popular. They offer a large balcony, allowing families to enjoy a picturesque outside space, separate living and sleeping rooms, and the option of an adjoining guest-room, so as to create a two-bedroom suite – great for large families.

While staying here, be sure to make time for… a tour of Heritage Village, which highlights the city’s heritage and traditions. At the other end of the scale there are the modern marvels, like Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Mall. One must-do if you’re in town when it’s on is Art Nights, which takes place in DIFC. It’s a fantastic event which combines art, music, design and culture, with a festival feel. Guests can enjoy an array of food, compliments of The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC. The next DIFC Art Nights is on March 18. For a meal to remember... I genuinely believe our in-hotel steak house Center Cut serves the best steak in Dubai, while just two minutes away is the ever popular Zuma for fantastic sushi. ritzcarlton.com March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 69

visit

GuanGzhou

With its green spaces, historic monuments and bustling market places, Southern China’s largest city has more to offer visitors than delicious food.

f you are not familiar with the many attractions of China’s third largest city, Guangzhou (formerly Canton), you are almost certainly familiar with arguably its most famous export: Cantonese food. Fans of dim sum, fried rice and sweet and sour dishes could do worse than savour authentic, mouthwatering Cantonese cooking in its birthplace. Choosing where to do so may be tricky though – the city is home to the most restaurants per capita in China, leaving visitors spoilt for choice. When you’re not sampling the myriad food options of this remarkable 2,200-year-old city, located on the Pearl River, there is plenty to explore. Meander along the Zhongshan 6 Road and wonder at the Huaisheng Mosque, believed to be the earliest surviving mosque in China, as well as the ancient pagodas. From here, you can head to Guangzhou’s incredible, if crowded, shopping streets and markets where you will find everything, from the weird to the wonderful. Soak up the atmosphere and bag some serious bargains: just remember to pack light and be prepared to barter. Retreat to the city’s many historical parks afterwards to discover why this thriving business hub is also known as the “city of flowers”: get lost among the acres of rolling hills at Yuexiu Park before discovering 5,000 years of history at Guangzhou Museum.

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GuanGzhou | China

MUST-DOS Tea aficionados will find few better places to start the day than nanfang Tea Market (1), in Fangcun district. The largest of its kind in southern China, the market boasts more than 3,000 shops selling every form of the beverage imaginable. Learn about Chinese tea traditions from hospitable shop owners while sampling as many as your tastebuds can handle. If that has left you feeling peckish, head for a late breakfast of dim sum and Chinese pastries at Tao Tao Ju restaurant (2), which has been serving the city traditional cuisine for more than 100 years. Its location at the end of the busy Shangxiajiu Commercial Pedestrian Street (3) means, re-fuelled, you’re perfectly placed to hit the hundreds of shops in this busy district. Conceal your shock at the low prices as you haggle on clothing and electrical goods and watch out for the water archway created by fountains on Beijing Lu Pedestrian Street (4), which has been the city’s busiest shopping street for hundreds of years. Those seeking hidden treasures should check out the antiques and traditional Chinese art on Wende Street (5), also known as Cultural Street, while a walk through Qingping Market (6), stacked full of fresh produce and Chinese herbs, offers a glimpse into traditional Chinese trading. When the chaos of the streets becomes too much, Guangzhou offers several tranquil escapes. Try the leafy haven of the South China Botanical Garden (7): founded in 1929 and as one of the most important

botany research institutions in China, it hosts hundreds of rare and exotic plants – perfect fodder for keen photographers. For incredible views of the city, take a cable car up White Cloud Mountain (9), so named because of the swirl of white clouds that circle its peaks during spring. For those keen on modern architecture, the gem-like Zaha Hadiddesigned Guangzhou opera house (10) is a must. And when night falls, take a cruise down the Pearl River (11) to savour the neonbright colours of the city’s buildings and their reflections on the water.

featuring a garden and pond. Try the all-day dim sum as well as Chaozhou dishes. Nadaman at the Shangri-La hotel Guangzhou (15) (Shangri-la.com) serves up world-renowned Japanese fine dining along with impressive views of Pearl River and the city. Enjoy vanilla ice cream with coconut milk.

GUAnGzHOU’S bEST… fESTivAlS Spring Flowers Fair Held during the Spring Festival, usually preceding Chinese New Year, the fair sees homes and streets in Guangzhou awash with flowers, both paper and real.

WHERE TO STAY The Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou (12) (ritzcarlton.com) not only offers luxurious five-star accommodation but also boasts panoramic views of the glistening Pearl River and a majestic location, adjacent to the city’s opera house and Guangdong National Museum. Four Seasons hotel Guangzhou (13) (fourseason.com) is located within the 432-metre-tall Guangzhou International Finance Centre Tower – promising a chic, ultra-modern base from which to enjoy the city. After a hectic day, retreat to its sumptuous Hua Spa for a traditional Chinese massage.

Lotus Flower Festival Every summer, tourists flock to the city’s Lotus Blossom Hill, in the Fanyu district, for this fragrant festival that celebrates the Lotus flower in its many forms. Dragon Boat Festival Munch on Zongzi’s (traditional glutinous rice cakes wrapped in bamboo leaves) and wave decorative flags among the throngs in Liwan district this June while enjoying the race.

WHERE TO EAT Bei Yuan Jiujia (14) (+86 20 8356 3365) offers a serene place to enjoy good, classic Cantonese fare, with its pretty courtyard,

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock; Supplied

Zhoumencun

Guangzhou Xiancun 12

Tianhe 5

10 1

Qi Xiangnan

Opposite page from top: Beijing Road Walking Street; Tea market; Chinese paper lantern; Tai Chi in front of Canton Tower.

March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 71

visit

WarsaW

With Emirates now flying direct from Dubai to Warsaw, discover the wealth of art, culture and history on offer in the Polish capital

ong, cold winters and a harrowing history had, for many years, painted an unfairly bleak picture of Polandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital, putting off would-be visitors. But today Warsaw is a city with plenty to smile about. The same energy and indomitable spirit that saw residents tirelessly restore magnificent historical monuments to their former glory after the city was reduced to ruins during the Second World War, is now attracting savvy explorers keen to soak up its rich culture and history. Anyone wishing to

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appreciate just how special this city and its people are would do well to start their trip with a visit to the Warsaw Rising Museum, which opened in 2004 to commemorate the 1944 Uprising (following which every building considered of importance to Polish culture was destroyed). Sometimes uplifting, often startling, the museum enables visitors to see the city with new eyes: from the magnificently reconstructed Old Town (or Stare Miasto), now a UNESCO world heritage site, to the 17th Century Royal Castle,

with its incredible architecture and lavish interiors. While not as classically beautiful as Krakow, Warsaw is not without its own charms. Those in doubt need look no further than Lazienki Park during the long summer months. The 18th century gardens and palatial complex, home to peacocks and red squirrels, hosts mesmerising live open-air piano performances dedicated to Warsawborn classical composer FrĂŠdĂŠric Chopin. A monument to the revered musician can also be found within the grounds. Glorious.

warsaw | poland

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

MUST-DOS All visits should start with a trip to the Warsaw rising Museum (1), essential if you want to fully appreciate the city’s energy and history. Get there early to beat the crowds and make a head start on the 800 exhibits and 1,500 photographs, films and sound recordings on display. The museum will shine new light on the incredible architecture you will witness in the city’s Old Town (2), most of which was flattened during the war and later rebuilt. Walk through the 14th century walls of the Warsaw Barbican (3), and go back in time, to a world filled with colourful houses, quaint shops, cafes and restaurants nestled within narrow streets. At the heart of this old area is the Old Town Market Place (4), where 13th century merchants once met to do business at the town hall. The hall was demolished in the 18th century and today a bronze mermaid statute sits in its place, as a symbol of Warsaw. From here, it is difficult to miss the vast red brick expanse of the royal Castle (5) and the pale green spire of its iconic clock tower. Formerly the official residence of Polish monarchs, today it houses a national museum. If all of this sightseeing has left you hungry, sample Polish cuisine at one of Castle square’s (6) many restaurants or cafes. After lunch, those keen to explore Warsaw’s haunting history should head to the small but imposing Gestapo Headquarters Museum (7). Once Poland’s most feared address, today the cells where prisoners were held for interrogation remain largely unaltered. Vivid audio descriptions tell of savage torture, while bullet holes in the walls paint a disturbing picture of life during the occupation. Reflect on this thoughtprovoking exhibit within the serene grounds of Lazienki Park (8), home to an 18th-century palace, beautiful gardens and ponds and the Chopin statue (9), erected in memory of Warsaw’s world-famous composer. Aficionados of the musician should visit the interactive Fryderyk Chopin Museum (10), opened in 2010 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of his birth. From here, take a short stroll to royal Way (11) and, tucked away on the second floor of the Academy of Fine Arts, you will find the apartment in which he lived with his family for three years. Venture a few steps further and discover The Church of the Holy Cross (12) – where the composer’s heart was laid to rest by his sister.

Where TO STaY

Where TO eaT

Le Meridien Bristol, Warsaw (13) (hotelbristolwarsaw.pl) has been a beacon of luxury since it first opened in 1901. Not only does it boast a majestic neorenaissance façade, stylish art deco interiors and contemporary creature comforts, but also a great location, near the Old Town and Royal Castle. InterContinental Warsaw (14) (warsaw. intercontinental.com) is one of the newest, and highest, editions to the city’s skyline. Tear yourself away from one of its stylish, luxurious suites to sample the fine delights at Platter by Karol Okrasa.

WarSaW’S beST… archiTecTUre The Palace of Culture and science, Plac Defilad Love it or hate it, this gift from the Soviet Union to the Poles in 1955 is Poland’s tallest building and a must-see. The architects aimed to combine Soviet architecture with elements of Poland’s renaissance houses and palaces. Powazkowski Cemetery, Wola district The burial site of many Polish celebrities, incredible architects and sculptors often created the tombs. Visit this unlikely art destination on All Saints Day to find it bathed in candlelight and flooded with flowers. Lazienki Palace, Lazienki Park Built on an artificial island on the lake, this 17thcentury palace (also known as the Palace on the Water) is one of the best examples of neoclassical architecture in Poland.

aleGloria (15) (alegloria.pl) serves up Polish food with contemporary artistic flair from its unique and beautifully themed basement rooms. Ask the waiter for a guided tour before sampling the unusual, but thoroughly fantastic, fare. atelier amaro (16) (atelieramaro.pl) is a must for foodies. Renowned Polish chef Wojciech Modest Amaro, who won the coveted Chef de l’Avenir award in 2008, describes his restaurant as “the place where nature meets science”. Indulge in the glorious ‘eight moments’ menu: you won’t be sorry.

Zamek Królewski 2 4 5

6 3

11 13

Śródmieście Północne

Powiśle 10

Warsaw

Śródmieście Południowe 16

Łazienki Park

7 9

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Castle Square in Old Town; Chopin statue at Lazienki Park; The city’s market square; Traditional Polish dumplings. March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 73

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March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller 75

SuiTe dreamS

four SeaSonS TenTed camp golden Triangle, Thailand

Even the most hardened of camping-phobes would struggle to resist these exclusive tents in picture-perfect northern Thailand. The Four Seasons have managed to combine their inimitable elegance and understated luxury with all of the best bits of camping to ensure a once-in-a-lifetime experience at their Golden Triangle camp. Wake early and enjoy a sumptuous breakfast on the terrace as the sun rises over the verdant hills and elephants graze in the morning mist. 76 March 2013 Kanoo World Traveller

Those feeling active can hike the mountain trails or take an elephant trek before soothing tired muscles in the tentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s private wooden hot tub. Alternatively, curl up with a book in the leather and hardwood bush chairs and enjoy the silence. Refresh your senses with an outdoor rainshower or take a leisurely bath in the two-person hand-hammered copper bathtub at the heart of the living space before recounting your day over a fireside dinner. fourseasons.com/goldentriangle

2013 FORMULA 1 GULF AIR BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX

APRIL 19.20.21 The fun never ends at the 2013 Formula 1 Gulf Air Bahrain Grand Prix. Bring the whole family and share in an experience of world cultural music and dance from across the world, a racing zone, a kid’s jungle tent, plus a Reverse Bungee and of course a whole weekend of adrenaline-fuelled action on the track. It’s an event with something for everyone! Imagine experiencing all of that… then buy your tickets now! The F1 FORMULA 1 logo, F1, FORMULA 1, FIA FORMULA ONE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP, BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX and related marks are trade marks of Formula One Licensing BV, a Formula One group company. All rights reserved.

TICKETS: +973 17 450000 B A H R A I N G P. C O M To book your flights visit: gulfair.com